NON-THERAPEUTIC COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF CRUE BUTTER AND OIL OF ASTROCARYUM VULGARE

Abstract

This article relates to a cosmetic composition comprising Astrocaryum vulgare oil and / or butter, which is useful in the production and / or protection against the degradation of hyaluronic acid in the skin, its production process, as well as related uses and methods. Claim 3: A cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the oil and / or butter comprises from approximately 90% to approximately 99.9% of the primary metabolite fraction and from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% of secondary metabolites. Claim 5: A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the primary metabolites comprise triacylglycerols and the secondary metabolites comprise carotenoids, terpenes, glycosides, tannins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, phytosterols, and α-tocopherol.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION, METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF ASTROCARYUM VULGARE OIL AND / OR BUTTER, USE OF THE COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION AND / OR PROTECTION AGAINST DEGRADATION OF HYALURONIC ACID IN THE SKIN FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising Astrocaryum vulgare oil and / or butter, which is useful in the endogenous production and / or protection against the degradation of hyaluronic acid in the skin, including the skin of the face and body, its production process, as well as related uses and methods. FUNDAMENTALS OF THE INVENTION Skin aging is the result of various factors that accumulate gradually. In addition to intrinsic factors specific to each individual, there are external factors such as sun exposure and factors related to lifestyle and quality of life. Our body, including the skin, undergoes gradual alterations in various physiological processes, such as a reduction in the production of essential components for maintaining healthy skin, as well as the acceleration of harmful processes. It is known that around the age of thirty, various physiological mechanisms of the skin become compromised, making it possible to notice some perceptible clinical signs of skin aging, as well as the reduction of the skin's ability to maintain hydration, which can be evidenced in subsequent years. Among the mechanisms involved in this process, the decrease in production and the increase in the degradation of hyaluronic acid naturally generated by the body are relevant, affecting the skin of the face and body, causing loss of tissue volume, accentuation of lines and folds, 234069 IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI Page 1 of 11 sagging, wrinkles and dehydrated or dry skin. Endogenous hyaluronic acid comprises a high molecular weight glycosaminoglycan with a negatively charged, unbranched linear chain due to the presence of carboxyl groups. It is composed of repeating units of the five disaccharides glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. It is a molecule present in the extracellular matrix of many tissues, including the skin. Due to the molecule's inherent properties, it has the ability to expand the hydrodynamic volume of the surrounding medium due to the mutual repulsion between the carboxyl groups, thus sequestering water. In this way, by retaining water in the skin, it acts in deep hydration mechanisms, as well as in anti-aging mechanisms such as skin plumping. Endogenous hyaluronic acid is synthesized by specific enzymes called HAS (hyaluronic acid synthases) and catabolized (degraded) by hyaluronidases. Despite the various treatments available, there remains a need for new cosmetic compositions that act on various mechanisms involved in the skin aging and hydration process. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES Figure 1 presents the simultaneous benefits obtained from the oil and the butter according to the present invention DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises oil and / or butter of Astrocaryum vufgare. Although Astrocaryum vw / gare, also known as tucumá, has some suggested cosmetic benefits, there remains a need for new formulations that act effectively on the various mechanisms IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 2 Page 2 of 11 involved in the skin aging process, particularly in the decrease in production and, simultaneously, in the degradation of hyaluronic acid naturally generated by the body. For this purpose, a cosmetic composition was developed comprising the crude raw materials of Astracaryum vulgare oil and / or butter, wherein the oil and / or butter contain from approximately 90 to approximately 99.9% of the primary metabolite fraction and from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% of secondary metabolites, also called bioactive compounds, particularly approximately 99.5% of the primary metabolite fraction and approximately 0.5% of secondary metabolites. It was surprisingly verified that the activity in the various mechanisms involved in the skin aging process, particularly in the decrease in production and, simultaneously, in the degradation of hyaluronic acid naturally generated by the body, is promoted by the combination between primary and secondary metabolites, present in the raw raw materials of Astrocaryum vuigare oil and / or butter. The primary metabolites according to the present invention comprise, without limitation, triacylglycerols, and the secondary metabolites also comprise, without limitation, among other compounds, carotenoids, terpenes, glycosides, tannins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, phytoestrogens (beta-sitosterol in higher concentrations), and alpha-tocopherol. The principal carotenes are alpha-, beta-, gamma-, and delta-carotenes, alpha- and beta-cryptoxanthin, neoxanthin, and violaxanthin, some of which have not been previously described for Astrocaryum vulgare. According to the present invention, "raw material" means a combination of secondary metabolites with primary metabolites IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 3 Page 3 of 11 as described here In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the mixture of crude oil and butter of Astrocaryum vulgare, more particularly containing bioactive compounds or secondary metabolites, in a ratio of about 5:1 to about 1:5, particularly about 2.5:1. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention contemplates Astracaryum vuigare oil composed predominantly of oleic acid (about 65%), paimitic acid (about 25%), stearic acid (about 4%), linolenic acid (about 3%) and linoleic acid (about 2%), wherein its triglyceride composition has high levels of POO (about 35%) and POP (about 14%). Ashfordocaryum vulgare oil contains alpha-tocopherols (around 10 mg / 100 g) and phytosterols, with beta-sitosterol present in the highest concentration (around 900 mg / Kg). It is also rich in carotenoids, with around 1200 mg / kg of total carotenoids. The main carotenes identified are: alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, gamma-carotene, delta-carotene, neoxanthin, violaxanthin, alpha-cryptoxanthin, and beta-cryptoxanthin. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention contemplates Astracaryam vulgare butter, which is predominantly composed of tauric acid (about 50%), myristic acid (about 25%), oleic acid (about 10%), paimitic acid (about 5%), linoleic acid (about 4%), stearic acid (about 2.5%), capric acid (about 2%), and caprylic acid (about 2%), wherein its triglyceride composition has high levels of LaMP (about 30%) and LaMM (about 20%) and contains phytosterols, with beta-sitosterol being present in the highest concentration (about 980 IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 4 Page 4 of 11 mg / Kg). Additionally, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention exhibit anti-aging, antioxidant, and protective effects against external aggressions, as well as hydration, anti-inflammatory properties, and the maintenance of skin integrity / barrier function and skin renewal / regeneration. Among the anti-aging effects, the stimulation of components of the dermo-epidermal junction is particularly noteworthy. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be conveyed in various cosmetic forms known to the skilled worker, for example, body moisturizer, bi-phase oil, raw butter, moisturizing body serum for hands. Cosmetically acceptable excipients according to the present invention are those known to the skilled trade for the composition of cosmetic bases in various forms, for example, emulsions, creams, gels, serums, and others known to the skilled trade. For example, without any limitation, cosmetically acceptable excipients may be selected from those mentioned in the “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary Handbook, 16th Edition.” Examples of cosmetically acceptable ingredients include bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1; dodecane; Prunus amygdala dulcis oil; sucrose laurate; xanthan gum; Helianthus annuus seed oil; glyceryl stearate; cetearyl alcohol; dicaprylyl ether; silica; acrylates / cycloacrylate crosspolymer; Pas sitiara eduis seed oil; and styrene / acylate copolymer. In another embodiment, the present invention also contemplates a process for the production of oil and / or butter from Astrocaryum vuigare. In the production of crude oil and butter, the stages of harvesting, storage of the fruit, seeds and / or pulp of the oilseeds, as well as the preparation of the raw material and the extraction of the IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 5 Page 5 of 11 Crude oil. In general, when vegetable oil is intended for edible purposes or for technical purposes where free acidity or color influences the appearance of the final product (cosmetic purposes, for example), the crude oil is refined, and the refining stages consist of degumming, neutralization, bleaching, and deodorizing. However, to guarantee the identified benefits for the skin, the refining process should be avoided since the removal of secondary metabolites results in a loss of the biological activity mapped for those raw materials. The sequential process for obtaining the oil and butter of Astrocaryum vulgare was developed to guarantee the presence of its secondary metabolites (verified as bioactive) and preserve their diversity, as well as the integrity of its triacylglycerols. Therefore, the oil and butter of Astrocaryum vulgare did not undergo any of the known refining stages. The fruits of AsíroGatyum vuigare are harvested, hulled, and can be stored and / or frozen until processing. The processing is carried out at room temperature and includes the following stages: - pulping on 8 mm cloth, with loads of 5 kg / 6 minutes at a rotation of 60 rpm; - Drying the pulp under vacuum until a moisture content of around 7 to around 10% is reached, at a temperature of around 60 °C under a vacuum of around 600 to 720 mmHg. Drying under these conditions constitutes the essential step to preserve the secondary metabolites (considered bioactive according to the present invention) and prevent their degradation during processing, which differs from prior art methods, which employ drying in a rotary dryer or exposed to the sun; IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 6 Page 6 of 11 - the pits of Astrocaryum vulgare are dried in ovens with air recirculation at a temperature of around 50 to around 60°C for around 7 to around 10 days, until reaching a moisture content of around 3 to 8%. At this moisture content, it is observed that the almond is loose inside the pit; - cold pressing of the dried pulp of Astrocaryum vulgare, using an expeüer-type press to obtain the oil of Astrocaryum vulgare, which is filtered and stored for use in cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, - The dried Astrocaryum vulgare pit is broken in a roller mill with a rotation of around 50 rpm, then the kernel is separated in a vibrating sieve; The almonds are cooked at 50°C for approximately 15 minutes to facilitate pressing. They are then cold-pressed using an expeüer-type press to obtain the Tucumán butter. The butter is filtered and homogenized at approximately 45°C and stored for use in cosmetic compositions according to the present invention. In another embodiment, the present invention contemplates the use of the cosmetic composition and / or the oil and / or butter obtained according to the present invention in stimulating the production and / or protecting against the degradation of hyaluronic acid in the skin. This benefit, which is highly desirable in anti-aging and highly moisturizing compositions, is obtained particularly with the use of raw oils and butters, combined in a specific ratio, where the butter stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid while the oil protects from degradation (reduces hyaluronidase). IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 7 Page 7 of 11 This simultaneous, highly desirable effect is provided particularly by the combination according to the present invention, where a protective effect of hyaluronidase reduction (-38.2%) is observed in the same order of magnitude as the isolated oil (-44%), complemented by the simultaneous effect in the increase of hyaluronic acid (21.5%), which comparatively can be considered a surprising result from a cosmetic point of view. In another embodiment, the present invention also contemplates a method for the production and / or protection against degradation of hyaluronic acid in the skin, which consists of applying a cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin. The following examples, without imposing any limitation, illustrate the present invention, particularly with regard to obtaining oil and / or butter from Astracaryum vuigare according to the present invention, cosmetic compositions, and their benefits as described. EXAMPLES Example 1. Process for preparing oils and / or butters from Asírocaryum vuigare according to the present invention. The fruits of Astrocaryum vuigare were harvested, destemmed, and stored. The fruits were kept frozen at -20 °C until processing. They were thawed at room temperature, around 30 °C, and on the second day after thawing, the fruits were dry-pulped without the use of water. The ideal pulping conditions were an 8 mm mesh screen, 5 kg loads every 6 minutes at a rotation speed of 60 rpm. The pulp was then vacuum-dried to a moisture content of 8–9% at 60 °C under a vacuum of 600 mmHg. IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 8 Page 8 of 11 The kernels were then dried in artisanal ovens with air recirculation at a temperature of 55°C for 8 days, until reaching a humidity of 5 to 6%, at this humidity it is observed that the almond is loose inside the kernel. The dried pulp was then finely pressed using an experimental press to obtain the oil. The oil was filtered in a plate filter press with the aid of a type A raw canvas filter element. The oil was homogenized and packaged in high-density polyethylene blue tanks and stored in an inert and cool environment, preserving the rich diversity of compounds present in the oil. The dried kernels were then cracked in a roller mill rotating at 50 rpm. Afterward, the kernels were separated using a vibrating sieve. The kernels were cooked at 50°C for 15 minutes to facilitate pressing. They were then cold-pressed using a 15-type expeler press to obtain the butter. The butter was filtered through a plate-frame filter press using a type A raw canvas filter element. The butter was homogenized at 45°C and packaged in blue high-density polyethylene tanks. It was stored in a cool, inert environment to preserve the rich diversity of compounds present in the butter. The crude oil and butter were chemically characterized by hyphenated techniques, such as gas chromatography, which evaluated the triacylglycerol and fatty acid content, as well as phytosterols; gel chromatography, which evaluated the glycerol composition; thin-layer chromatography, which evaluated the phytochemical classes; and liquid chromatography coupled to a high-resolution Q-Tof mass spectrometer, which evaluated the compounds present. Example 2. Cosmetic compositions according to the present invention IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 9 Page 9 of 11 Table 1. Body Moisturizer_______________ Ingredient % Water qs p. Asfrocaryum vulgare oil 0.5-2% Astrocaryum vuigare oil 2-5% Caprylic / capric triglycerides 2-4% Cetyl alcohol 3 Dicaprylyl carbonate Glycerin 3 Glyceryl! stearate citrate 2 H id roxy a ketofe η one 0.3-0.5% Tocopherol 0.1-0.3% Polyglyceryl-3 caprylate 0.1 ! Sodium gluconate 0.1 Sodium polyacrylate 0.4 Tapioca starch 1 Propanediol 2 Table 2 Body moisturizer Ingredients % Water Astrocaryum vuigare butter ___________ . ... 2-5% Glycerin 3% Cetyl alcohol 2.94% Glyceryl stearate citrate 2% Caprylic / capric triglycerides 2.4% Astrocaryum vuigare oil 0.5-2% Dicalcryl carbonate 1.999-4% IF-2020-07214107-APN-ANP#INPI 10 Page 10 of 11 Propanediol 1.998 Tapioca starch 1 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.3-0.5% Sodium polyacrylate 0.352 Tocopherol 0.101-0.3% Sodium gluconate 0.1 Polyglyceryl-3 caprylate 0.1 Stearyl alcohol 0.03 Myristyl alcohol 0.03 Example 3· Biological activity The evaluation of the activity of the oil and / or butter, according to the present invention, was carried out by means of the gene expression profile and the confirmation of protein and / or molecular expression. Figure 1 presents the simultaneous benefits obtained from the oil and the butter according to the present invention. The technical expert will be able to promptly evaluate, by means of the teachings contained in the text and the examples presented, the advantages of the invention and propose equivalent variations and alternatives in the form of its embodiment, without departing from the scope of the invention, as defined in the attached claims.

Claims

1. A non-therapeutic cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises a mixture of crude oil and butter of Astrocaryum vulgare in a ratio of 5:1 to 1:

5. Seven claims follow.