Composition for the prevention or slowing of the appearance of signs of inflammation
Patent Information
- Application Number
- AT2019742419T
- Authority / Receiving Office
- AT · AT
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2018-04-13
- Filing Date
- 2019-04-12
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-15
- Estimated Expiration
- 2039-04-12
AI Technical Summary
Current solutions fail to effectively prevent or slow the appearance of unsightly signs of inflammation on sensitive and reactive skin and scalp, which are often triggered by external stresses and imbalances in the skin microbiota, leading to redness, itching, and discomfort.
A composition comprising poly-substituted quinic acid derivatives from Arctium lappa plant extracts, combined with organic solvents and water, is used topically to reduce inflammation and maintain skin health, specifically formulated to prevent or slow the appearance of inflammatory signs by modulating the skin microbiota and reducing cytokine production.
The composition effectively prevents the degradation of the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, and alleviates redness and discomfort by maintaining skin health and balancing the microbiota, thereby addressing the challenges of sensitive and reactive skin.
Abstract
Description
[0001] Use of a new composition to prevent or slow the appearance of signs of inflammation
[0002] The present invention relates to the use of a composition comprising poly-substituted quinic acid derivatives, and more particularly of an extract of the plant Arctium lappa comprising said derivatives to prepare formulations for topical use intended to prevent or slow down the appearance of unsightly signs related to inflammation of the skin and / or scalp, and more particularly of reactive and / or sensitive skin.
[0003] Since human skin is the first impression we have on others, improving its appearance is often a concern. Skin reflects either a state of well-being, often associated with clear or radiant skin, or, conversely, a state of fatigue, often linked to the unsightly effects of irritated skin, such as redness, particularly on certain areas of the face like the cheeks, neck, and forehead. This redness is more likely to develop following various external stressors (such as temperature changes) and especially affects sensitive and reactive skin.
[0004] The skin is an atypical organ of the human body, extremely thin relative to its size, yet also the heaviest organ in an individual. One of the skin's characteristics is that it acts as an interface organ, a boundary organ, between the internal environment (the human body) and the external environment. Therefore, along with the flora that covers and inhabits it, the skin is the first line of defense for the human organism.
[0005] Because of its position as an interface with the external environment, the skin is subjected to numerous daily stresses, such as contact with clothing, changes in temperature, changes in humidity levels, changes in pressure, and even aggressions, such as contact with certain chemicals that are or may be very acidic, very basic, or irritating, or with chemicals considered to be polluting agents.
[0006] The skin is composed of layers of different tissues:
[0007] - The epidermis, composed of keratinocytes, is its outermost part, then comes
[0008] - The dermis, which is a connective tissue composed mainly of fibroblasts and extracellular matrix, and
[0009] - The hypodermis, made up of adipocytes, which is the deepest part and furthest from the external environment.
[0010] The skin performs various functions for the benefit of the entire system it houses, among which we can highlight: - A mechanical barrier function to guarantee the integrity of the body's internal environment,
[0011] - An excretory function aimed at secreting sweat composed of water, salts, and acidic waste products,
[0012] - A function of regulating body temperature, and contains many other regulatory mechanisms, such as its mechanism of adaptation and protection against ultraviolet radiation (adaptive pigment coloration by the production of melanin), such as an immune surveillance system by the presence of macrophages, dendritic cells.
[0013] Human skin is also the first impression we make on others. Consequently, improving its appearance is a constant concern for human beings. Skin reflects a state of well-being, often associated with youth, and conversely, a state of fatigue and / or aging. As a result, preserving and improving the condition of the outermost layer of skin, namely the epidermis, is a major focus of research conducted by the cosmetics industry.
[0014] At the periphery of the epidermis, there is an upper horny layer, called the stratum corneum, which is the first layer of the epidermis to undergo stresses of external origin, such as variations in external climatic conditions (temperature, pressure, humidity) or mechanical stresses.
[0015] The stratum corneum is particularly in contact with the skin microbiota.
[0016] For the purposes of this application, "skin microbiota" refers to a population of microorganisms, specialized or opportunistic, such as bacteria, fungi, yeasts, etc., that live on the surface of the skin.
[0017] The skin microbiota cannot be defined in a specific and generalized way for all individuals. Since the launch in 2007 of the National Institutes of Health's "Human Microbiome Project" (HMP), researchers have observed large topographical variations in the human microbiota as well as significant differences between individuals.
[0018] At least nineteen phyla have been identified, the four main ones being Actinobacteria (51.8%), Firmicutes (24.4%), Proteobacteria (16.5%), and Bacteroidetes (6.3%). The most frequently identified genera are Corynebacterium, Propionibacterium, and Staphylococcus. The abundance of each group is highly dependent on the location. Fungal organisms isolated from the skin are of the genus Malassezia spp. Furthermore, mites of the genus Demodex are also present and reside in the pilosebaceous units, most often on the surface of the face. This microbiota feeds on both molecules excreted by the skin (lipids, proteins, etc.) and compounds secreted by the communities of microorganisms, highlighting a genuine cooperation within this microbiota. Moreover, this relationship with the host constitutes a true symbiosis.
[0019] Bacteria can be commensal when they live in contact with the skin and mucous membranes of a host without causing damage. A balance is then established between the individual and the various commensal flora of the skin and mucous membranes, but this balance is constantly threatened by physical or chemical aggressions to the stratum corneum, such as pollution, temperature variations, ultraviolet radiation, intensive use of detergent surfactants, stress, etc. Alongside these commensal bacteria, there are opportunistic, undesirable, and / or pathogenic bacteria.
[0020] Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) constitutes more than 90% of the resident aerobic flora present in the stratum corneum. The resident flora also includes anaerobic bacteria belonging to the Actinobacteria division, such as Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), which are frequently found in sebaceous areas, such as the back, face, and scalp.
[0021] While the normal skin flora constitutes a defense for the host, an increase or reduction in bacterial composition (dysbiosis) leads to skin inflammation and can be the cause of the development and visible manifestation of redness on the skin and / or scalp, particularly on sensitive and reactive skin.
[0022] Sensitive skin is defined by a particular reactivity of the skin. This skin reactivity typically manifests as signs of discomfort, such as redness, in response to contact with a triggering element. This trigger can have various origins, including the application of a cosmetic product to the surface of sensitive skin, the consumption of food, exposure to sudden temperature changes, air pollution, and / or ultraviolet or infrared radiation. There are also associated factors such as age and skin type. Thus, sensitive skin is more common among dry or oily skin types than among normal skin types.
[0023] The appearance of these signs of discomfort, which occur within minutes of contact with the triggering element, is one of the essential characteristics of sensitive skin. These are primarily dysesthetic sensations. Dysesthetic sensations are defined as sensations of varying degrees of pain felt in a specific area of skin, such as tingling, prickling, itching, burning, heat, discomfort, tightness, etc. It is now known that these skin irritation and intolerance reactions are notably linked to inflammatory mechanisms.
[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, sensitive skin covers irritable and intolerant skin.
[0025] Intolerant skin is skin that reacts with sensations of heat, tightness, tingling, and / or redness to various factors such as the application of cosmetic or dermatological products or soap. Generally, these signs are associated with erythema and hyperseborrheic or acne-prone skin, or even rosacea, with or without rashes.
[0026] Irritable skin is skin that reacts with pruritus, that is, with itching or tingling, to various factors such as the environment, emotions, food, wind, friction, shaving, hard water with a high concentration of limestone, temperature variations, humidity or wool.
[0027] For the purposes of this invention, "sensitive" scalps have a more consistent clinical presentation: sensations of itching, tingling, and / or burning are primarily triggered by local factors such as friction, soap, surfactants, hard water with a high concentration of calcium, shampoos, or lotions. These sensations are also sometimes triggered by factors such as the environment, emotions, and / or food. Erythema and seborrhea of the scalp, as well as dandruff, are frequently associated with the aforementioned signs.
[0028] It is known that colonization of the pilosebaceous follicle by P. acnes is an important factor in the inflammatory reaction in acne vulgaris. In fact, acne is not strictly speaking an infectious disease because this bacterium primarily exerts an inflammatory action, linked to its numerous enzymatic and chemical secretions and the immunological reactions it triggers. Thus, P. acnes stimulates the production by sebocytes, keratinocytes and leukocytes (lymphocytes and monocytes) of numerous inflammatory cytokines (IL-1 a, IL1 b, IL-6, IL-8, IL-10, IL-12, IL-17, IL-18, TNF-a, GM-CSF and IFN-y) as well as antimicrobial peptides (defensins and cathelicidins), matrix metalloproteinases, reactive oxygen species and other products involved in the inflammatory reaction.
[0029] In addition, P. acnes secretes a lipase that hydrolyzes sebum triglycerides into free fatty acids that are irritants and chemotactic to neutrophils.
[0030] Among the plant extracts that can be used for their actions on the human microbiota, we can mention a freeze-dried extract of burdock leaves (or Arctium iappa) for which antibacterial activity has been demonstrated and more particularly activity against oral microorganisms, showing more effective against bacteria associated with endodontic pathogens such as Bacillus subtilis, Candida albicans, Lactobacillus acidophilus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (1).
[0031] It is also described that burdock leaves are also a possible topical remedy for skin problems such as eczema, acne and psoriasis (1).
[0032] It is also described in the literature that extracts from burdock leaves show antimicrobial activities (2).
[0033] The Chinese patent application published under number CN106074663 A describes a composition of plant extracts comprising a Mîio wood extract, a burdock root extract, and a honeysuckle extract, and more specifically describes how the burdock root extract treats dry skin, acute itching, inflammation, scars, and other symptoms by inhibiting inflammatory factors induced by various causes (external stress or genetic factors), improving the skin's immune and antioxidant activity, and soothing and repairing the skin.
[0034] The US patent application published under number US20170136077 discloses that a number of plant extracts, including a burdock root extract, an Epilobium angusîifoiium root extract, and a Cystoseira ameniacea extract, promote the reduction of the production of cytokines IL-8, IL-1, and TNF-a by keratinocytes stimulated by Phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (or "PMA").
[0035] This model is known to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effect of ingredients because PMA is an activator of the protein kinase C pathway which has a general inflammatory effect on cells.
[0036] As part of their research concerning new cosmetic active ingredients for the prevention and / or treatment of signs of unsightly effects related to skin inflammation, such as redness on the skin and / or scalp, particularly on sensitive and reactive skin, the inventors focused on developing a new technical solution based on the use of a composition including poly-substituted quinic acids (or "QPS"), on the use of Burdock root extracts including said QPS, obtained by a process including a prior step of aeroponic cultivation of said Burdock, to present hydrating effects on human skin.
[0037] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to the use of a composition (Ch) to prevent or slow down the appearance of unsightly signs related to inflammation of the skin and / or scalp, or to eliminate them, with the composition (C1) comprising, for 100% of its mass:
[0038] a) - From 60.0% mass to 75.0% mass of an organic solvent (SQ) selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, or a mixture of these compounds;
[0039] b) - From 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass quantity xi, expressed as mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyl-3,5-O-dicafeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least one compound of general formula (I):
[0040]
[0041] (I),
[0042] in which Qi, Q2, Ch, Q4 and Q5 independently represent the hydroxyl radical or one of its salts or a radical chosen from:
[0043] (i) - The caffeoyl radical of formula (II):
[0044]
[0045] (ü) - The maloyl radical of formula (Ilia) or (lllb):
[0046] (lllb);
[0047] (iii) - The caffeine maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or (IVb):
[0048] (iv) - The maloyl caffeoyl radical of formula (Va), (Vb), (Vc) or (Vd),
[0049]
[0050] it being understood that at least one of these radicals Qi, Q2, Q3, Q4 and Q5 represents neither the radical -OH; nor one of its salts; and
[0051] c) - From 20.0% mass to 35.0% mass of water.
[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, "unsightly signs related to inflammation of the skin and / or scalp" means, for the purposes of the invention, any changes in the external appearance of the skin or scalp due to inflammation of said skin or scalp, such as inflammations manifesting as redness of the skin and / or scalp.
[0053] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "said mass quantity xi being expressed as mass equivalent of 1-0-(2-cafeoyl)maloyi-3,5-0-dicafeoyl quinic acid" means that the mass quantity xi was determined by the implementation of a quantitative analytical method of the UHPLG-MS type ("Ultra High Performance Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectra"), using as a reference standard a standard of 1-0-(2-cafeoyl)maloyi-3,5-0-dicafeoyl quinic acid previously isolated and purified to a content greater than or equal to 99%. Such a quantitative UHPLC-MS analysis was performed with a Shimadzu_Nexera_LCMS 2020 UHPLC-MS instrument, equipped with a diode array detector and set to a wavelength of 330 nanometers, a Kinetex 2.6u XB-C18 100A. 100 x 2.1 column, and employing a mobile phase A composed of water and 0.1 wt% formic acid and a mobile phase B consisting of acetonitrile,
[0054] Among the compounds with general formula (I) present in composition (ES), we can mention:
[0055] Compounds of the DiCaféoylQuinic Acid (DCQ) family as described in Table 1 below:
[0056] Table 1
[0057] The compounds of the TriCaffeoylQuinic Acid (TCQ) family as described in Table 2 below: Table 2
[0058] The compounds of the Maloyl TriCaféoylQuinic Acid (m-TCQ) family as described in Table 3 below: Table 3
[0059] The compounds of the Maloyl DiCaféoylQuinic Acid (m-DCQ) family as described in Table 4 below: Table 4
[0060]
[0061] - compounds of the CaffeoylMaloyl TriCaffeoylQuinic acid family as described in Table 5 below:
[0062] Table 5
[0063]
[0064] - compounds of the CaffeoylMaloyl DiCaféoylQuinic acid family as described in Table 6 below
[0065] Table 6
[0066]
[0067] According to one particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (ES) as defined above comprises at least:
[0068] - At least one compound of formula (la) corresponding to formula (I) for which Qi represents the maloyl radical of formula (Ilia) or of formula (I Slb) and Qs and Q4 and Q5 identical, each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II);
[0069] - A compound of formula (Ib) corresponding to formula (I) for which Qi represents the caffeoyl radical of formula (IVa) or formula (IVb), Qa and Q5 each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), and Q4 represents the hydroxyl radical, and - At least one compound of formula (le) chosen from:
[0070] - The compound with formula (here) corresponding to formula (!) where Ch and Ch each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), Ch represents the hydroxyl radical and Q4 represents the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or formula (IVb); and
[0071] - The compound of formula (the) corresponding to formula (I) for which Qi and GU represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), Gh represents the hydroxyl radical and Q5 represents the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or formula (IVb).
[0072] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (la) corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Qi represents the maloyl radical of formula (Ilia), C ef CU and Ch, identical, represent the caféoyi radical of formula (il).
[0073] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (la) corresponding to the formula (I) as defined above and for which Ch represents the maloyl radical of formula (lllb), Ch and Gh and Ch, identical, represent the caféoyi radical of formula (il).
[0074] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (1b) corresponds to the formula (1) as defined above and for which Qi represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa); Ch and Ch, identical, represent the caféoyi radical of formula (II); Ch represents the -OH radical.
[0075] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (Ib) corresponds to the formula (!) as defined above and for which Gh represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb); Ch and Ch, identical, represent the caféoyi radical of formula (II); Gh represents the -OH radical.
[0076] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (le) is the compound of formula (Ici), corresponding to formula (I) as defined above and for which Qi and Ch , identical, represent the caféoyi radical of formula (II); Ch represents the -OH radical; C represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa).
[0077] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (le) is the compound of formula (Ich, corresponding to formula (I) as defined above and for which Qi and Gh , identical, represent the caféoyi radical of formula (II); C represents the -OH radical; Ch represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb).
[0078] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (le) is the compound of formula (IC2), corresponding to formula (I) as defined above and for which Qi and GU , identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Ch represents the -OH radical; Q5 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa).
[0079] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, in the composition (ES) as defined above, the compound of formula (the) is the compound of formula (the ? ), corresponding to formula (I) as defined previously and for which Qi and Q 4, Identical, represent the caféoyl radical of formula (II); Ch represents the -OH radical; Q5 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb).
[0080] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (ES) as defined above comprises at least:
[0081] - a compound of formula (la) as defined above, for which Qi represents the aioyl radical of formula (Ilia) or the maloyi radical of formula (llib), and
[0082] - a compound of formula (Ib) as defined above, where Qi represents the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVb), and
[0083] - a compound of formula (Here) as defined previously and for which Q4 represents the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVa) or the caféoylmaloyl radical of formula (IVb).
[0084] According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (ES) as defined above comprises at least:
[0085] - a compound of formula (la) as defined above, where Qi represents the maioyl radical of formula (Ilia) or the maloyi radical of formula (II ib), and
[0086] - a compound of formula (ib) as defined above, where Qi represents the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVb), and
[0087] - a compound of formula (the) as defined above and for which Gh represents the caffeine-moyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb).
[0088] According to a particular aspect of the present invention, the organic solvent (SC) present in the composition (C1) as defined above is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, and 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol.
[0089] According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (Ci) comprises, by 100% of its mass:
[0090] - From 60.0% mass to 75.0% mass of 1,2-propanediol,
[0091] - From 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass quantity xi, expressed as a mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)maloyi-3,5-O-dicafeoyi quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / of at least the compound of formula (la) as defined in claim 2, and at least the compound of formula (Ib) as defined in claim 2, and at least the compound of formula (le) as defined in claim 2
[0092] - From 20.0% mass to 35.0% mass water. The composition (C1) used in the context of the present Invention can be prepared by simple mixing of its constituents, at a temperature between 20°C and 80°C, more particularly between 20°C and 40°C, and even more particularly between 20°C and 30°C, and under mechanical anchor-type agitation at a speed between 50 revolutions / minute and 150 revolutions / minute.
[0093] More specifically, the composition (C1) used within the framework of the invention can be prepared from a process comprising the following successive steps:
[0094] - A step a) of cultivating the Arctium iappa plant under external conditions, fed by a nutrient solution, in order to obtain biomass (BMi);
[0095] - A step b) of immersing the roots of said biomass (BMi) obtained in the preceding step a) in a medium (Si), such that the biomass (BMi) / medium (Si) ratio is between 0.5 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L, said medium (Si) comprising, for 100% of its own mass, 20% to 35% by mass of water whose pH has been adjusted to a value between 1.5 and 3.5 by the addition of a protic acid chosen from sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid, and 65% to 80% by mass of an organic solvent (SOi) chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, i.e. 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, ie 1,6-hexanediol, ie 1,8-octanediol or a mixture of these diols;
[0096] - A step c) of separating the roots from the biomass at the end of the treatment defined in step b), to isolate a liquid phase (Li);
[0097] - A step d) of immersion of the biomass (BM2) from step c) in said medium (Si); in a biomass (BM2) / mixture (Si) ratio between 0.1 kg / L and 1.5 kg / L;
[0098] - A step e) of separating said biomass (BM2) after the treatment defined in step d), to isolate a liquid phase (L2),
[0099] - A step G) of filtration of said liquid phase (L3) obtained in step d), to isolate a liquid phase (L3),
[0100] - A step g) of mixing said liquid phases (L1) and (L3), then if necessary adding water and / or said organic solvent (SO1), so as to obtain the expected composition (C).
[0101] Step a) of cultivating the Arctium lappa plant under soilless conditions (or aeroponics) is carried out according to standard conditions known to those skilled in the art, and more specifically those concerning the influence of nitrogen content (2) (3) (4) (5) (6), and of the phosphorus and potassium content present in the culture medium. Step a) of cultivating under soilless conditions is therefore carried out by optimizing the nitrogen / phosphorus / potassium ratio present in the nutrient medium, and by optimizing the electrical conductivity parameter of such a nutrient medium. Step a) is generally conducted at a temperature between 20°C and 40°C, for a duration of between 4 and 10 weeks, in order to obtain a significant amount of biomass (BMi), particularly at the root level; step a) is stopped when biomass (BMi) growth is no longer observed.
[0102] The present invention also relates to a method for preventing or slowing down the appearance of unsightly signs related to inflammation of the skin and / or scalp, or for eliminating them, characterized in that it comprises at least one step ai) of applying to the surface of the skin to be treated, an effective quantity of a topical composition (C2) comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient (E) and a composition (Ci) consisting of, by 100% of its mass:
[0103] a) from 60.0% mass to 75.0% mass of 1.2-propanediol,
[0104] b) 0.1 wt% to 2.0 wt% of a composition (ES) comprising a mass amount xi, expressed as mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyl)ma!oyl-3,5-O-dicafeoyi quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / of at least the compound of formula (la) as defined in claim 2, and at least the compound of formula (Ib) as defined in claim 2, and at least the compound of formula (le) as defined in claim 2 c) 20.0 wt% to 35.0 wt% of water.
[0105] In the context of the procedure as defined above, the "effective quantity" refers to a quantity sufficient to reduce the intensity, slow the onset, or eliminate the unsightly signs associated with skin and / or scalp inflammation, and more specifically, redness. Generally, approximately 1 to 5 grams of a topical composition (C2) as defined previously will be used.
[0106] The expression "for topical use" used in the definition of the composition (C2) which is the subject of the present invention means that said composition (C2) is implemented by application to the skin, whether it is a direct application or an indirect application when said composition (C2) according to the invention is impregnated on a support intended to be put in contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc.).
[0107] The said composition (C2) is generally spread on the surface of the skin to be treated, then the skin is massaged for a few moments.
[0108] The expression "cosmetically acceptable" used in the definition of the composition (C2) which is the subject of the present invention, means according to Council Directive 76 / 768 / EEC of 27 July 1976 as amended by Directive 93 / 35 / EEC of 14 June 1993, that it includes any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and scalp, nails, lips and genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the mouth with a view exclusively and principally to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and / or correcting their body odours and / or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.
[0109] The topical composition (C2) of the present invention is generally in the form of an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solution, in the form of a suspension, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nano-emulsion, whether of the water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type, or in the form of a powder.
[0110] The topical composition (C2) of the present invention can be packaged in a bottle, in a pump-type "bottle" device, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device with a ball applicator (known as "roll-on").
[0111] In general, the topical composition (C2) of the present invention also comprises excipients and / or active ingredients commonly used in topical formulations, particularly cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceutical, such as thickening and / or gelling surfactants, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, hydrotropic agents, plasticizers, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, conditioning agents, bleaching agents for hair and skin lightening, active ingredients intended to provide a treatment action on the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments,Particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texturizing agents.
[0112] Examples of foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants.
[0113] Among the anionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci), we can mention the salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amines, or amino alcohols of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates,
[0114] alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alphaolefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, N-acylated derivatives of peptides, N-acylated derivatives of proteins, N-acylated derivatives of fatty acids. Among the amphoteric foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci), we can mention alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.
[0115] Among the cationic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci), quaternary ammonium derivatives are particularly noteworthy.
[0116] Among the non-ionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci), we can mention in particular alkyl polyglycosides having an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecylenyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; coconut amides; N-alkylamines.
[0117] Examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include fatty esters of alkyl polyglycosides, possibly alkoxylated, such as ethoxylated methyl polyglucoside esters like PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed under the names GLUCAMATE™ LT and GLUMATE™ DOE120 respectively; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrytyl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX™ DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate marketed under the name ANTIL™ 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS™ T21 1, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS™ GT2125.
[0118] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with composition (Ci) include copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms, and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms; linear, branched or crosslinked terpolymers of at least one monomer possessing a strong acid function, free, partially salified or totally salified, with at least one neutral monomer, and at least one monomer of formula (VIII):
[0119] CH2=C(R'3)-C(=0)-[CH2-CH2-0]n'-R'4(VIII)
[0120] in which R represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising eight to thirty carbon atoms and n' represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty. Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with composition (Ci) include polysaccharides consisting solely of sugars, such as glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, and galactomannans with a degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans from cassia gum (DS = 1 / 5), carob gum (DS = 1 / 4), tara gum (DS = 1 / 3), guar gum (DS = 1 / 2), and fenugreek gum (DS = 1).
[0121] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include polysaccharides made up of sugar derivatives, such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of sugars and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of gum arabic and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans.
[0122] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives, and polyurethanes.
[0123] Examples of stabilizing agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include microcrystalline waxes, particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, and silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.
[0124] Examples of solvents that can be associated with composition (Ci) include water, organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, and mixtures of water and said organic solvents.
[0125] Examples of thermal or mineral waters that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include thermal or mineral waters with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-bains water, Néris-les-bains water, Allevard-les-bains water, Digne water, Les Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-bains water, Lons le Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Les Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water. Examples of hydrotropic agents that can be associated with composition (Ci) include xylene sulfonates, cumene sulfonates, hexyl polyglucoside, 2-ethylhexyl polyglucoside, and n-heptyl polyglucoside.
[0126] Examples of emulsifying surfactants that can be associated with composition (Ci) include non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants.
[0127] Examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that can be associated with composition (Ci) include fatty acid and sorbitol esters, such as products marketed under the names MONTANE™40, MONTANE™60, MONTANE™70, MONTANE™80 and MONTANE™85; compositions comprising glycerol stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid with between 5 and 150 moles of ethylene oxide, such as the composition comprising ethoxylated stearic acid with 135 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOL™ 165; mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; and methyl glucoside esters.alkylpolyglycosides having an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and having from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyxyloside, octadecyl polyxyloside, eicosyl polyglucoside, dodecosyl polyglucoside, 2-octyldodecyl polyxyloside, 12-hydroxystearyl polyglucoside; compositions of linear or branched fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, and of alkyl polyglycosides as described above, for example compositions marketed under the names MONTANOV™68, MONTANOV™ 14, MONTANOV™82, MONTANOV™202, MONTANOV™S, MONTANOV™ W018, MONTANOV™ L, FLUIDANOV™20X and EASYNOV™.;
[0128] Examples of anionic surfactants that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, and N-acylated derivatives of salified amino acids, for example stearoyl glutamate.
[0129] Examples of emulsifying cationic surfactants that can be associated with composition (Ci) include aminoxides, quaternium-82 and the surfactants described in patent application W096 / 00719 and primarily those whose fat chain comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.
[0130] Examples of opacifying and / or pearlescent agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, and fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0131] Examples of texturizing agents that can be associated with composition (Ci) include N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE™LL, octenyl starch succinate marketed under the name DRYFLO™, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV™ 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, and mica.
[0132] Examples of deodorizing agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include alkali silicates; zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSAN™;aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octochlorohydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate and glycol complexes, such as aluminum chlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum chlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol complex.;
[0133] Examples of oils that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include mineral oils such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, isoparaffins or white mineral oils; oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane;Vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, tamanu oil, syssymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables, ethoxylated vegetable oils;synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters like butyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, lanolic acid esters such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, fatty acid monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides such as glyceryl triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly(alpha-olefins), polyolefins such as poly(isobutane), synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils;silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenyl-polysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, alcohol and fatty acid-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, epoxy-modified silicones, fluorinated-modified silicones, cyclic silicones, and alkyl-modified silicones. For the purposes of this application, "oils" means compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and are liquid at a temperature of 25°C.
[0134] Examples of waxes that can be associated with composition (Ci) include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature; and glycerides that are solid at room temperature. For the purposes of this application, "waxes" means compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and are solid at a temperature of 45°C or higher.
[0135] Examples of active ingredients that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include vitamins and their derivatives, particularly their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a skin-lightening or depigmenting action such as w-undecelynoyl phenylalanine marketed under the name SEPIWHITE™MSH, SEPICALM™VG, the monoester and / or glycerol diester of w-undecelynoyl phenylalanine, w-undecelynoyl dipeptides, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone; compounds showing a soothing action, notably SEPICALM™ S,allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds with moisturizing properties such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, xylityl glucoside; plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; compounds with slimming or lipolytic properties such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM™, ADIPOLESS™, fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXIL™; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, for example Raffermine™; wheat extracts, for example TENSINE™ or GLIADINE™; plant extracts, such as tannin-rich plant extracts,plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine plant extracts; marine extracts in general such as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds showing antimicrobial or purifying action, such as LIPACIDE™ C8G, LIPACIDE™ UG, SEPICONTROL™ A5; OCTOPIROX™ or SENSIVA™ SC50; compounds showing energizing or stimulating properties such as PHYSIOGENYL™, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP™ MP; anti-aging active ingredients such as SEPILIFT™ DPHP, LIPACIDE™ PVB, SEPIVINOL™, SEPIVITAL™, MANOLIVA™, PHYTO-AGE™, TIMECODE™; SURVICODE™; anti-photoaging active ingredients; active ingredients that protect the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction; active ingredients that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen and elastin,glycosaminoglycans; active ingredients that act favorably on chemical cell communication such as cytokines or physical cell communication such as integrins; active ingredients that create a "warming" sensation on the skin such as activators of cutaneous microcirculation (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a "cooling" sensation on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives); active ingredients that improve cutaneous microcirculation, for example venotonics; draining active ingredients; decongestant active ingredients such as extracts of ginkgo biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, butcher's broom, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow; tanning or skin-browning agents, for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotarta aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan, ninhydrin,plant extracts, for example, extracts of red woods of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida as described in European patent application EP 0 971 683; agents known for their action of facilitating and / or accelerating tanning and / or browning of human skin, and / or for their action of coloring human skin, for example carotenoids (and more particularly beta carotene and gamma carotene), the product marketed under the brand name "Carrot oil" (INCI name: Daucus Carota, helianthus annuus Sunflower oil) by the company Provital, which contains carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K; Tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect on accelerating tanning of human skin in association with exposure to ultraviolet radiation,For example, the product marketed under the brand name "SunTan Accelerator™" by Provital, which contains tyrosine and riboflavins (vitamin B); the tyrosine and tyrosinase complex marketed under the brand name "Zymo Tan Complex" by Zymo Line; the product marketed under the brand name MelanoBronze™ (INCI name: Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex Agnus-castus)) by Mibelle, which contains acetyl tyrosine; the product marketed under the brand name Unipertan VEG-24 / 242 / 2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol, acetyl tyrosine, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, and adenosine triphosphate) by UNIPEX; and the product marketed under the brand name "Try-Excell™" (INCI name: Oleoyl tyrosine and Luffa cylindrica). (Seed) Oil and Oleic acid) by the company Sederma which contains extracts of pumpkin seeds (or Loofah oil),the product marketed under the brand name "Actibronze™" (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrostan™ (INCI name: potassium caproyl tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan Isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl Tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product marketed under the brand name InstaBronze™ (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) marketed by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosilane (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by the company Exymol; peptides known for their melanogenesis-activating effect, for example the product marketed under the brand name Bronzing SF Peptide powder (INCI name: Dextran and Octapeptide-5) by the company Infinitec Activos,The product marketed under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: Glycerin, Aqua, Dextran, and Acetyl hexapeptide-1), containing acetyl hexapeptide-1, known for its alpha-MSH agonist activity; the product marketed under the brand name Melatimes Solutions™ (INCI name: Butylene glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-40) by LIPOTEC; sugars and sugar derivatives, for example, the product marketed under the brand name Tanositol™ (INCI name: inositol) by Provital; the product marketed under the brand name Thalitan™ (or Phycosaccharide™ AG) by CODIF International (INCI name: Aqua, Hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria Digitata), magnesium sulfate, and manganese sulfate), containing a marine oligosaccharide (guluronic acid and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions); the product marketed under the brand name Melactiva™ (INCI name: Maltodextrin,Mucuna Pruriens Seed extract) by the company Alban Muller, compounds rich in flavonoids for example the product marketed under the brand name "Biotaning" (INCI name: Hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract) by the company Silab and known to be rich in lemon flavonoids (of the hesperidin type); agents intended for the treatment of hair and / or body hair, for example, melanocyte-protective agents for hair follicles, intended to protect said melanocytes against cytotoxic agents responsible for senescence and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, such as DOPAchrome tautomerase activity mimetics selected from those described in the European patent application published under number EP1515688 A2, synthetic SOD mimetic molecules, for example manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds, for example cyclodextrin derivatives, siliceous compounds derived from ascorbic acid,of pyrrolidone carboxylate of lysine or arginine, combinations of mono- and diester of cinnamic acid and vitamin C, and more generally those cited in the European patent application published under number EP 1 515 688 A2.,
[0136] Examples of antioxidant agents that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, and mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINED GL 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel under the INCI name: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate.
[0137] Examples of sunscreens that can be associated with the composition (Ci) include all those listed in the amended cosmetics directive 76 / 768 / EEC annex VII.
[0138] Among the organic sunscreens that can be associated with the topical composition (C2) of the present invention as defined above, we can mention the family of benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular monoglycerol esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N,N25 propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-diethoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,Ndimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N,Ndimethyl PABA; the family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; the family of salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate;the family of cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy 2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-α-cyano-3-phenyl cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-α-cyano-3-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoyl diparamethoxy cinnamate;the family of benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-5 carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-camphor, 3 (benzylidene)-d,lcamphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; the family of sulfonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;the family of triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl)amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis-(2-ethylhexyl) ester of benzoic acid, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4"-butylbenzoylmethane; 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene)-3-pentan-2-one; the family of diphenyl acrylate derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate; the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene siloxane malonate.
[0139] Among the inorganic sunscreens, also called "mineral sunscreens," that can be associated with the topical composition (C2) of the present invention as defined above, are titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red, or black iron oxides, and chromium oxides. These mineral sunscreens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have undergone surface treatments, and may optionally be presented as aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.
[0140] The invention also relates to a composition (Ci) as defined above, for use in a therapeutic treatment method aimed at reducing and / or eliminating tingling and / or prickling and / or itching and / or burning and / or redness and / or skin discomfort and / or tightness of the skin caused by inflammation of the human skin and / or scalp.
[0141] Tingling, prickling, itching, burning, redness, skin discomfort, and / or tightness are common symptoms associated with skin conditions such as urticaria, eczematous dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, herpes, photodermatoses, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, lichen planus, prurigo, pruritic diseases, fibrosis, collagen maturation disorders, scleroderma, and eczema. Bibliography:
[0142] (1): Chan et al., “A review of the pharmacological effects of Arctium lappa”, !nflammopbarmaco!, 2011, 19:245-254).
[0143] (2): Pirvu et al. / 'Comparative studies on analytical, antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities of a series of plant extracts prepared from eight plant species growing in Romania”, J planar Chromato 2014.
[0144] The following examples illustrate the invention, without however limiting it.
[0145] A) Example of preparation
[0146] Ai) Example of preparing a composition (CI A ) according to the invention.
[0147] The Burdock or Arctium lappa plants were previously obtained by germinating seeds for a period of 60 days under standard conditions, so as to reach a size of about 10 to 15 centimeters, then they are potted up to be placed in "soilless" growing conditions or in an aeroponic environment.
[0148] The roots of the Burdock plants are thus soaked in a nutrient solution characterized by an electrical conductivity between 1.0 and 1.2 millisiemens, and by a mass ratio of N / P / K (Nitrogen / Phosphorus / Potassium) supplied by the fertilizer of approximately 15 / 10 / 30. This aeroponic culture phase is conducted for six weeks at a temperature regulated at 20°C, and allows a root yield of 754 grams per square meter.
[0149] The fresh roots of the biomass thus obtained are harvested and immersed for 15 minutes in a bath containing a mixture of 100% by mass, 70% by mass of 1,2-propanediol and 30% by mass of distilled water, at a temperature of 25°C; the pH of the distilled water having been previously adjusted to 2.0 ±0.2 by adding a 75% by mass solution of phosphoric acid. The ratio of root biomass thus immersed to the volume of 1,2-propanediol and water mixture described above is 1.0 kg of root biomass per 1 liter of 1,2-propanediol and water mixture.
[0150] After immersion, the plants are removed from their exudation bath (Li), which is retained, and the roots are drained and then cut. The remaining biomass is then macerated for 48 hours in a bath containing a mixture comprising, by mass, 70% 1,2-propanediol and 30% distilled water, at a temperature of 25°C; the pH value of the ’ distilled water having been previously adjusted to 2.0 ±0.2 by the addition of a 75% wt. phosphoric acid solution. The ratio of root biomass thus immersed for a volume of the previously described 1,2-propanediol and water mixture amounts to 0.5 kg of biomass per 1 liter of the 1,2-propanediol and water mixture.
[0151] At the end of this maceration phase, the biomass is separated from the maceration liquid (L2), said liquid (L2) subsequently being filtered with a 50 micrometer bag filter.
[0152] Liquids (L1) and (L1)? ) are subsequently combined, and the necessary quantity of 1,2-propanedioide is added to adjust its mass content to 70%, to obtain the liquid (La), which is then filtered through a 1-micrometer membrane to clarify it, and finally under sterile filtration with a 0.2-micrometer membrane, to obtain the composition (C IA ).
[0153] A2) Example of preparing a comparative composition (C C om P ).
[0154] Seedlings from the same batch of seeds as those used to obtain the seedlings subsequently grown in aeroponics (example Ai), are used for soil cultivation of said seedlings for a period of six weeks.
[0155] At the end of this period, the plants are removed from their pots, the fresh roots are cleaned, cut and crushed, and the resulting crushed material is extracted using a conventional liquid-solid extraction process (maceration, agitation, filtration) with a 70 / 30 solvent mixture of 1,2-propanedioi / distilled water, at a temperature of 25°C, with a mass ratio of fresh roots / solvent mixture of 0.5 kg of biomass per 1 liter of 1,2-propanedioi and water; the pH value of the distilled water having been previously set to 2.0 ±0.2 by adding a 75% mass solution of phosphoric acid.
[0156] At the end of this extraction phase, the biomass is separated from the liquid which is then filtered with a 50 micrometer bag filter, then with a 1 micrometer membrane to clarify it, and finally under sterile filtration with a 0.2 micrometer membrane, in order to obtain the composition (Ccomp).
[0157] A3) Analytical characterization of the composition (CIA) according to the invention and of the comparative composition (C C om P ).
[0158] The composition (CIA) according to the invention and the comparative composition (C C om P ) have been analytically characterized and the characteristics are included in Table 7 below.
[0159] Table 7
[0160] B) Highlighting the active properties of the compositions (CIA) according to the invention and comparative.
[0161]
[0162] Bi) Demonstration of the prevention of alteration of the skin barrier function, on reconstructed human epidermis.
[0163] B 1.1. Principle of the method Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus strains were cultured in BHI (Brain Heart Infusion) and NB (Nutrient Broth) media, respectively, at 37°C for 24 hours. Human reconstructed epidermis of 0.5 cm 2 surface cultures, grown at 37°C and under 5% CO2, were first colonized with the Staphylococcus epidermidis strain for a period of 6 hours, then were colonized with the Staphylococcus aureus strain for 24 hours.
[0164] The composition (CIA) according to the invention (1% v / v) was added to reconstructed human epidermis at the same time as the Staphylococcus epidermidis strain and then again with the Staphylococcus aureus strain.
[0165] The barrier function of the reconstructed human epidermis treated in this way was evaluated:
[0166] by a measurement of trans-epithelial electrical resistance, or TEER (Trans
[0167] Epithelial Electrical Resistance), reconstructed human epidermis and
[0168] by a histological evaluation of said reconstructed human epidermis, and more particularly by hematoxylin and eosin staining, and by a "score" of said staining.
[0169] As part of the histological evaluation, the effects on the barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis were assessed using a histological score based on hematoxylin and eosin staining, which was assigned as follows:
[0170] 0 = standard: no significant change in the reference morphology
[0171] 1 = slight: significant modification of the stratum corneum
[0172] 2 = moderate: significant changes in the stratum corneum and granular layer, decreased keratohyalin, and some necrotic cells
[0173] 3 = severe: significant changes in the basal layer with necrotic cells, intercellular spaces, and edema
[0174] 4 = severe: loss of intercellular connection, detachment of tissue from polycarbonate filter, necrotic cells, absence of specific labeling.
[0175] A product is judged to protect the barrier function of the human epidermis if the histological score is noted as "standard" (score 0) or "slight" (score 1).
[0176] The balance of the microbiota of the reconstructed human epidermis, without or with application of the composition (CIA), was evaluated by studying the formation of colony-type ultrastructures, biofilms by SEM.
[0177] B.1.2. Results
[0178] B.1.2.1 Results obtained on the protection of the barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis by measuring trans-epithelial electrical resistance (TEER). TEER measurements performed on reconstructed human epidermis, according to the associated treatments, are recorded in Table 8. A decrease in trans-epithelial electrical resistance (TEER) indicates a degradation of the epidermal barrier function and therefore constitutes one of the factors contributing to skin dehydration and the unsightly effects that this dehydration can cause. The difference in trans-epithelial electrical resistance measurements of the surface of the reconstructed human epidermis after colonization and before colonization (D1) is also calculated.
[0179] The percentage of protection is also calculated using the following formula:
[0180] % Protection = D1 [Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermis + Staphylococcus aureus and treated with Composition (CI) A ) 1% (v / v)] - D1 [Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis + Staphylococcus aureus without addition of Composition (CI A ) ] ) / (D1 [ Untreated reconstructed human epidermis (Control) ] - D1 [ Reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis + Staphylococcus aureus without addition of Composition (C, A ) ] )
[0181] The statistical analysis of the results was carried out using a two-sided Student's t-test and a significance threshold set at 5%, comparing the colonizations and treatments performed two by two.
[0182] We will consider a difference between the effectiveness of two products to be:
[0183] - Significant if p < 0.05;
[0184] - Said to be "at the limit of significance" if 0.05 < p < 0.1;
[0185] - And not significant if p > 0.1.
[0186]
[0187] Table 8
[0188] When reconstructed human epidermis is colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus, the difference in TEER measured before and after the start of said colonization is -3373.33 Ohm.cm 2 , and exhibits a significant increase of 187% compared to uncolonized, untreated reconstructed human epidermis (-1173.33 Ohm.cm 2 ).
[0189] When reconstructed human epidermis is exposed to the Composition (CIA) while simultaneously being colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus, the difference in TEER measured before and after the onset of colonization is -2001.66 Ohm.cm 2This represents a non-significant increase of 71% compared to uncolonized, untreated reconstructed human epidermis (-1173.33 Ohm.cm). 2 ) and 62% protection compared to reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus.
[0190] It follows that the application to the skin of a composition comprising Composition (CIA) prevents the degradation of the skin's epidermal barrier function before it is subjected to the action of bacteria known to degrade the barrier function of said epidermis. B.1.2.2 Results obtained on the protection of the barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis by histological evaluation of said reconstructed human epidermis, by hematoxylin and eosin staining.
[0191] The hematoxylin and eosin staining of the epidermis was evaluated by assigning a "score" as described previously, and the results are recorded in Table 9 below:
[0192]
[0193] Table 9
[0194] When reconstructed human epidermis were colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus a ureus, the histological score was assessed at a level of 2, indicating a change in the structure of the viable epidermis with more intercellular spaces and cell clusters.
[0195] When reconstructed human epidermis was exposed to the Composition (CIA) during colonization with Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus a ureus, the histological score was assessed at level 1, indicating a reduction in damage, particularly in the basal layer and stratum corneum where a more compact lamellar structure was observed. This suggests that applying a composition containing the Composition (CIA) to the skin prevents the degradation of tissue cohesion and, consequently, the epidermal barrier function against transient bacterial invasion.
[0196] Furthermore, in the context of this histological study, the colonization profile by the two bacteria (Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus) was evaluated by scanning electron microscopy (“Scanning electron microscopy” or “SEM”, Zeiss Sigma Electron Microscope).
[0197] When reconstructed human epidermis was colonized by only Staphylococcus epidermidis, the bacterium was present homogeneously on the surface of the reconstructed human epidermis, forming large aggregates and developing a biofilm characterized by filamentous polysaccharide structures observed with a magnification of x10000 of the electron microscope.
[0198] When reconstructed human epidermis was colonized by Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus, several spherical aggregates of Staphylococcus aureus appeared on the surface of the reconstructed human epidermis, while a film of Staphylococcus epidermidis remained visible on the surface of said epidermis.
[0199] Large aggregates of Staphylococcus aureus are also observed, with a magnification of x10000 under the electron microscope, forming a three-dimensional structure, thus indicating an early stage of biofilm development on the surface of the epidermis.
[0200] After application to the skin of a composition containing the Composition (CIA), the spherical aggregates of Staphylococcus aureus are no longer present, indicating that the addition of the Composition (CIA) prevents the bacteria from adhering to the surface of the epidermis and the formation of the Staphylococcus aureus biofilm. The Staphylococcus epidermidis biofilm remains observed on the surface of the epidermis.
[0201] These observations show that the Composition (CIA) reduces the adhesion and therefore the formation of biofilms of pathogenic opportunistic bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus, without altering the presence of commensal bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis.
[0202] B.1.3. Conclusions
[0203] The combination of transepithelial electrical resistance measurement and histological evaluation of reconstructed human epidermis, prior to colonization by a commensal skin flora bacterium and then by a pathogenic bacterium, provides a model for studying the alteration of the barrier function and microbiota balance of said epidermis, and the impact of prior treatments with complex compositions, extracts, or formulations. The results and observations gathered in sections B.1.2.1 and B.1.2.2 demonstrate that the composition (CIA) prevents the degradation of the barrier function of the human skin epidermis and, consequently, prevents the development of inflammation and redness when colonized by a commensal skin flora bacterium and then by a pathogenic bacterium.
[0204] B2) Demonstration of the prevention of the effect of compositions according to the invention on inflammation induced in the event of microbiota imbalance
[0205] B.2.1. Principle of the method
[0206] The anti-inflammatory effect of these compositions was evaluated on normal human keratinocytes under conditions mimicking a skin microbiota imbalance through the activation of three Toll-like receptors (TLRs). These receptors are activated by recognizing specific patterns on microbes and their role is to alert the immune system in order to activate the body's defenses. In this model, the microbiota imbalance was simulated with various stimuli mimicking a skin infection:
[0207] TLR-5 was activated by flagellin (the main protein of the flagellar filament, present on almost all bacteria)
[0208] TLR-2 is cleaved from zymosan (a glycoprotein complex extracted from yeast membranes)
[0209] TLR-3 by poly(l:C) (a synthetic analogue of double-stranded RNA found in viruses)
[0210] The effect of the tested compositions was evaluated on their ability to modulate IL-8 and hBD2 production induced by these stimuli using specific ELISA kits. Total protein concentration was also assessed to normalize the production of the cytokine (IL-8) and the antimicrobial peptide (hBD2).
[0211] Statistical elements:
[0212] The values are expressed as means + / - sem [standard error of the mean or standard error of the mean = standard deviation / square root (number of values)].
[0213] For each treatment, we calculated:
[0214] % protection = 100 x [mean (cells + treatment) - mean (stimulated cells)] / [mean (unstimulated cells) - mean (stimulated cells)] Statistical analysis of the results was carried out using a two-tailed Student's t-test with a significance threshold set at 5%, comparing the series of values two by two.
[0215] We will consider a difference between the effectiveness of two products to be:
[0216] - Significant if p < 0.05;
[0217] - Said to be "at the limit of significance" if 0.05 < p < 0.1;
[0218] - And not significant if p > 0.1.
[0219] B.2.2. Results obtained
[0220] In the three tables that follow: For stimulated cells: *** p<0.001 vs unstimulated cells. For treated and stimulated cells: *** p<0.001 vs stimulated cells.
[0221] The results obtained following the activation of TLR-5 by flagellin are recorded in Table 10 below:
[0222]
[0223] Table 10
[0224] The results obtained following TLR-2 activation by zymosan are recorded in Table 11 below:
[0225] Table 11
[0226] The results obtained following the activation of TLR-3 by poly(l:C) are recorded in Table 12 below:
[0227]
[0228] Table 12
[0229] B.2.3. Analyses and conclusions
[0230] When TLR-5 is activated by flagellin, and when cells are treated with 0.074% of the composition (CIA) according to the invention, a 61% increase in IL-8 production is observed compared to IL-8 production when the cells are not treated. Similarly, when cells are treated with the composition (CIA) according to the invention, an 85% increase in hBD2 production is observed compared to hBD2 production when the cells are not treated.
[0231] When TLR-2 is activated by zymosan, and when cells are treated with 0.074% of the composition (CIA) according to the invention, a 54% increase in IL-8 production is observed compared to IL-8 production when the cells are not treated. Similarly, when cells are treated with the composition (CIA) according to the invention, a 58% increase in hBD2 production is observed compared to hBD2 production when the cells are not treated.
[0232] When TLR-3 is activated by poly(l:C), and when cells are treated with 0.074% of the composition (CIA) according to the invention, a 74% increase in IL-8 production is observed compared to IL-8 production when the cells are not treated. Similarly, when cells are treated with the composition (CIA) according to the invention, an 85% increase in hBD2 production is observed compared to hBD2 production when the cells are not treated.
[0233] When TLR-2, TLR-3 and TLR-5 are activated, particularly by simulating an infection (bacteria, yeast, virus), the combination of the composition (CIA) according to the invention reduces the overproduction of the cytokine IL-8 and the antimicrobial peptide hBD2, demonstrating its ability to reduce inflammation induced by microbiota imbalance.
[0234] Therefore, the combination of the composition (CIA) according to the invention, which reduces the overproduction of the cytokine IL-8 and the antimicrobial peptide hBD2, acts on limiting the phenomenon of skin or scalp inflammation, and consequently reduces the unsightly effects associated with acne.
[0235] B3) Demonstration of the effect of the composition according to the invention on the prevention of redness and burning and / or itching sensations following the induction of physical or chemical irritation in reactive skin
[0236] B.3.1. Principle of the method
[0237] The method involves evaluating the effect of the tested compositions on the balance of the microbiota and the barrier function, which could help to soothe reactive skin activated by mechanical or chemical stress.
[0238] A population of 20 women aged 18 to 65 years with sensitive skin (based on their self-reported condition and a stinging test score > 4) was recruited. The stinging test is used to identify individuals with specific skin reactivity on the face. It consists of applying chemical stress (five applications of a 10% lactic acid solution by mass) to the nasolabial fold, compared to saline solution applied simultaneously to the other side. The subject rates the burning and stinging sensations after 15 seconds, then 30 seconds, 2 minutes, and 5 minutes following the application, according to the following rating scale: 0 = no sensation; 1 = mild sensation; 2 = moderate sensation; 3 = intense sensation. For each subject, the sum of the scores is calculated, and if it is greater than or equal to 4, the subject is classified as having reactive skin.
[0239] The selected population of 20 individuals applied the formula containing composition (C1A) according to the invention and the placebo formula to half of their face, twice a day, for 14 days. After 14 days of application, the subjects underwent mechanical and chemical stress to evaluate the soothing effect of the tested compositions.
[0240] Skin reactivity was first assessed by measuring the red color of the skin using a chromameter that measures the parameter “a”. Mechanical stress was then applied to the cheeks by five successive strippings (stripping / peeling) that removed the first superficial layers of skin. The products were then applied (one on each side of the face), and skin reactivity was again measured chromametrically by measuring the parameter “a” 30 minutes after the first measurement. The difference in the parameter “Aa” before and 30 minutes after was calculated as follows:
[0241] For each subject (i), Aa, = value of parameter (a) 30 minutes after the first measurement - value of parameter (a) before application.
[0242] For the entire population, Aa moy = (å Aa,) / number of subjects
[0243] Chemical stress was induced by five applications of a 10% lactic acid solution to the nasolabial folds. Each subject (i) rated (using the same scale as before) the burning and stinging sensations 15 seconds after the lactic acid application (noted as "S,o"). Then, the products were applied (one on each side of the face), and again each subject (i) rated the burning and stinging sensations at 30 seconds (noted as "S,30"). s "), 2 minutes (noted "Si2min"), and 5 minutes (noted ^Si5min ^)
[0244] For each subject (i), we calculate ASi = (Si30s + Si2min Si5min) SiO
[0245] For the entire population, we calculate AS moy= (å Si ) / number of subjects
[0246] B.3.2. Results obtained • Evaluation of redness induced by mechanical stress (Aa moy )
[0247] The Aa parameters moy The measurements taken are as follows:
[0248] Aa moy = 1.41 for the group for which the parameter "a" was measured on the hemi-faces to which the placebo formula was applied.
[0249] Aa moy = 0.57 for the group for which the parameter "a" was measured on the hemifaces to which the formula containing the composition (CIA) was applied
[0250] Applying the formula containing the composition (CIA) therefore allows us to limit the Aa parameter by 60% moy , and therefore to limit the phenomenon of redness linked to skin inflammation induced by mechanical stress.
[0251] • Assessment of burning and tingling sensations induced by stress
[0252] chemical (AS moy )
[0253] AS moy = 1 for the group for which the AS criterion moy was measured on the hemifaces to which the placebo formula was applied.
[0254] AS moy = 0.8 for the group for which the AS criterion moy was measured on the hemifaces to which the formula containing the composition (CIA) was applied.
[0255] The application of the formula containing the composition (CIA) therefore makes it possible to reduce the evaluation criterion related to chemical stress AS by 20%, thus reducing the phenomenon of burning and tingling sensations of human skin induced by chemical stress.
[0256] B4) Demonstration of the effect of composition (C IA ) on inflammation induced in cases of microbiota imbalance (anti-lipase activity)
[0257] B.4.1. Principle of the method
[0258] The aim is to study the ability of a composition to induce and regulate the activity of the lipase enzyme by an in tubo method, the said enzyme having an inflammatory action.
[0259] Lipase has the ability to transform 1,2-diglyceride, which is colorless, into glycerol, which is pink in color.
[0260] The samples for evaluation are placed in a tube in the presence of lipase and 1,2-diglyceride, and the absorbance of the samples is measured spectrophotometrically at a wavelength of 570 nm immediately after preparation, and then again after 60 minutes of incubation at 37°C under the same spectral conditions. Using a glycerol range, the lipase activity of the samples can be calculated, as well as the percentage of inhibition, according to the following formulas:
[0261] Lipase activity = (amount of glycerol formed between 0 and 60 minutes) / (60 minutes x sample volume) Percentage of inhibition = 100 x [(lipase activity of the control group) - (lipase activity of the product under test)] / (lipase activity of the control group)
[0262] Statistical elements:
[0263] The values are expressed as means + / - standard deviation.
[0264] The statistical analysis of the results was carried out using a two-tailed Student's t-test with a significance threshold set at 5%, comparing the series of values two by two.
[0265] We will consider a difference between the effectiveness of two products to be:
[0266] - Significant if p < 0.05;
[0267] - Said to be "at the limit of significance" if 0.05 < p < 0.1;
[0268] - And not significant if p > 0.1.
[0269] B.4.2. Results obtained
[0270] The results obtained are recorded in Table 13 below ( *** p<0.001 vs control).
[0271]
[0272] Table 13
[0273] B.4. 3. Analysis of results
[0274] The measurements recorded in Table 13 show that treatment with the composition according to the invention (CAI) significantly reduces lipase activity, since the measured percentage of inhibition is 78%.
[0275] The composition according to the invention (CAI) makes it possible to limit lipase activity and consequently to reduce the unsightly effects of skin inflammation related to the activity of said lipase. B5) General conclusions on biological evaluations implementing the composition according to the invention (C A I).
[0276] Experimental evaluations in this section have demonstrated that the composition (CIA) according to the invention limits the formation of a biofilm of pathogenic bacteria (in this case Staphylococcus aureus), without however affecting its viability or that of commensal bacteria (such as Staphylococcus epidermidis).
[0277] Similarly, it has been established that
[0278] When TLR-2, TLR-3, and TLR-5 are activated, particularly through the simulation of an infection (bacteria, yeast, virus), the association of the composition (C IA ) according to the invention allows for the reduction of the overproduction of the cytokine IL-8 and the antimicrobial peptide hBD2, which demonstrates its ability to reduce inflammation induced by microbiota imbalance,
[0279] The application of the formula containing the composition (CIA) therefore helps to reduce the phenomenon of redness related to skin inflammation;
[0280] Applying the formula containing the composition (CIA) helps to reduce the phenomenon of burning and tingling sensations on human skin.
[0281] It follows that the composition according to the invention (CAI) can be used for the purpose of preventing or slowing down the appearance of unsightly signs related to inflammation of the skin and / or scalp.
[0282] C) Formulations
[0283] In the following formulas, percentages are expressed as a percentage of the formulation.
[0284] C.1 Facial Cleansing Fluid
[0285] Formula
[0286] Composition (CIA) 10.00%
[0287] Methylparaben 0.15%
[0288] Phenoxyethanol 0.80%
[0289] SEPICALM™ S 1.00%
[0290] Perfume / Fragrance 0.10%
[0291] Water qs. 100.00%
[0292] Instructions: Mix the ingredients in water using a magnetic stirrer in the order indicated, and adjust the pH to around 7. C.2 Children's Hair and Body Shampoo
[0293] Formula
[0294] Composition (CIA) 15.00%
[0295] PROTEOL™ APL 5.00%
[0296] SEPICIDE™HB 0.50%
[0297] Perfume / Fragrance 0.10%
[0298] B Water 20.00%
[0299] CAPIGEL™98 3.50%
[0300] Water QS 100.00%
[0301] SEPICIDE™CI 0.30%
[0302] QS Dye
[0303] Sodium hydroxide QS pH = 7.2
[0304] Procedure: Mix the composition (E4) with PROTEOL™APL and SEPICIDE™HB (Phase A). Dilute CAPIGEL™98 in a portion of the water and add it to the previously prepared Phase A (Phase B). Add the remaining water to Phase B, then the SEPICIDE™CI and the dye. Adjust the pH of the mixture to approximately 7.2 with sodium hydroxide.
[0305] C.3 Makeup remover wipes for the eyes
[0306] Formula
[0307] Composition (CIA) 3.00%
[0308] B SEPICIDE™HB2 0.50%
[0309] C SEPICALM™ VG 0.50%
[0310] Perfume / Fragrance 0.05%
[0311] Water QS 100.00%
[0312] Procedure: Mix the ingredients of phase B and those of phase C into phase A until the solution is clear. Add phase D.
[0313] C.4 Gentle Foaming Gel
[0314] Formula
[0315] Composition (CIA) 8.50%
[0316] PROTEOL™ APL 3.00%
[0317] EUXYL™ PE9010 1.00%
[0318] Perfume / Fragrance 0.10%
[0319] B Water QS 100.00%
[0320] Lactic acid QS pH = 6.0 Procedure: Dissolve the fragrance and preservative EUXYL™ PE 9010 in the mixture composed of composition E4 and PROTEOL™ APL (phase A). Add water and adjust the pH to approximately 6.0 with lactic acid.
[0321] C.5 Frequent Use Shampoo
[0322] Formula
[0323] Composition (CIA) 12.80%
[0324] PROTEOL™ OAT 5.00%
[0325] EUXYL™ PE 9010 1.00%
[0326] Perfume / Fragrance 0.30%
[0327] Water QS 100.00%
[0328] B MONTALINE™ C40 8.50%
[0329] Lactic acid QS pH = 6.0
[0330] Procedure: Mix all the ingredients of phase A and, after homogenization, add MONTALINE™C40 and adjust the pH to approximately 6.0 using lactic acid.
[0331] C.6 Ultra-gentle baby shampoo
[0332] Formula
[0333] A Composition (C IA 10.00%
[0334] AMISOFT™CS-1 1 4.00%
[0335] Perfume / Fragrance 0.10%
[0336] SEPICIDE™HB 0.30%
[0337] SEPICIDE™CI 0.20%
[0338] Water QS 100.00%
[0339] B Water 20.00%
[0340] CAPIGEL™ 98 3.50%
[0341] Tromethamine QS pH = 7.2
[0342] Procedure: Mix all the ingredients of phase A in the order indicated until a clear phase A is obtained. Separately, add CAPIGEL™98 to the water, then add this prepared phase B to phase A and adjust the pH to 7.2 using tromethamine.
[0343] C.7 Baby Toilet Milk
[0344] Formula
[0345] A SIMULSOL™165 2.00%
[0346] MQNTANQVTM202 1 .00% LANOLTM99 3.00%
[0347] Dimethicone 1 .00%
[0348] Isohexadecane 3.00%
[0349] B Eau QS 100.00%
[0350] C SEPIPLUS™400 0.30%
[0351] D Composition (CIA) 6.35%
[0352] E SEPICIDE™HB 0.30%
[0353] DMDM Hydantoin 0.20%
[0354] Perfume / Fragrance 0.10%
[0355] Procedure: Heat phases A and B, each composed of a mixture of the different components, separately. Add phase C to the hot oil phase and emulsify by pouring in the aqueous phase; homogenize for a few minutes under vigorous stirring (using a rotor / stator turbine). Then add phase D to the hot emulsion and cool the emulsion under moderate stirring until it returns to room temperature. Add phase E at 40°C.
[0356] C.8 Cleansing Powder Lotion for Sensitive Skin
[0357] Formula
[0358] A LIPACIDE™C8G 0.95%
[0359] Methylparaben 0.10% Ethylparaben 0.024% Propylparaben 0.01% Butylparaben 0.024% Isobutylparaben 0.01% Water 20.00%
[0360] Disodium EDTA 0.10% Triethanolamine 1.38%
[0361] B Composition (CIA) 1.80%
[0362] Perfume / Fragrance 0.10% C SEPICALM™S 0.28%
[0363] Water QS 100.00%
[0364] Lactic acid QS pH = 5.2
[0365] D MICROPEARL™M310 5.00%
[0366] Procedure: Dissolve the ingredients of phase A in water at 80°C. Separately dissolve the fragrance in the composition (E4) to prepare phase B. Add the cooled phase A to phase B, then introduce the SEPICALM™S and the remaining water. Check the final pH and adjust it to approximately 5.2 if necessary. Then add the MICROPEARL™ M310.
[0367] C.9 Children's Shower Gel
[0368] Formula
[0369] Water 56.06%
[0370] SEPIMAX™ Zen 3.00%
[0371] SEPIPLUS™S 0.80%
[0372] B PROTEOL™ OAT 20.80%
[0373] ORAMIX™NS 10 9.30%
[0374] AMONYL™265 BA 5.10%
[0375] Composition (CIA) 2.00%
[0376] Glyceryl Glucoside 1.00%
[0377] Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexyl Glycerin 1.00% Perfume / Fragrance 0.90%
[0378] Coloring agent 0.04%
[0379] Procedure: Disperse SEPIMAX™ZEN in water and stir using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a deflocculator, a counter-helix, and an anchor-type paddle until a perfectly smooth gel is obtained. Add SEPIPLUS™S and stir until the mixture is homogeneous. Then add the ingredients of phase B, homogenize, and add the additives of phase C individually. Adjust the pH to 6.0–6.5.
[0380] C.10 BB Cream
[0381] Formula
[0382] A EASYNOV™ 2.30%
[0383] LANOL™ 99 1.00%
[0384] SEPIMAT™ H10W 1.00%
[0385] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00%
[0386] B Cyclomethicone 6.00%
[0387] Triethoxycaprylsilane & Alumina-silane & Titanium Oxide 8.00%
[0388] Iran Oxide red & Triethoxycaprylsilane 0,24%
[0389] Iron Oxide yellow & Triethoxycaprylsilane 0,66%
[0390] Iron Oxide black & Triethoxycaprylsilane 0,09%
[0391] Parfum / Fragrance 0,10%
[0392] C Eau qs 100%
[0393] SEPINOV™EMT10 1 ,20%
[0394] D Composition (CIA) 2,00%
[0395] SEPITONIC™M3 1 ,00%
[0396] Phenoxyéthanol & Ethylhexyl Glycérine 1 ,00%
[0397] Procedure: Prepare phase B by mixing the various ingredients and homogenizing them using a mixer equipped with a rotor-sator system at a speed of 4500 rpm for 6 minutes. Prepare phase C by adding SEPINOV™ EMT10 to the water and glycerol mixture and homogenizing it using a mixer equipped with a rotor-sator system at a speed of 4000 rpm for 4 minutes. Add phases A and B to phase C, and stir the resulting mixture using a mechanical stirrer with an anchor-type paddle at a speed of 30 rpm for 2 minutes, then at a speed of 50 rpm for 20 minutes. Add the components of phase 5 one by one and stir at a speed of 50 rpm for 25 minutes.
[0398] C.11 High Protection Sunscreen Spray SPH greater than 30
[0399] Formula
[0400] A MONTANOV™L 1.00%
[0401] MONTANOV™82 1.00%
[0402] C12-15 Alkylbenzoate 17.00%
[0403] Dimethicone 3.00%
[0404] Octocrylene 6.00%
[0405] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 6.00% Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxypenyl Triazine 3.00%
[0406] Tocopherol 0.05%
[0407] B Water qs 100%
[0408] C SIMULGEL™ INS 100 0.50%
[0409] Cyclodimethicone 5.00%
[0410] D Composition (CIA) 3.00%
[0411] Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexyl Glycerin 1.00% Perfume / Fragrance 0.20%
[0412] E Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl
[0413] Tetramethylbutylphenol 10.00% Citric acid 25% qs pH = 5
[0414] SEPICALM™S: Mixture of N-cocoyl amino acids, sarcosine, potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate as described in WO 98 / 09611.
[0415] PROTEOL™APL: Mixture of sodium salts of N-cocoyl amino acids, obtained by acylation of amino acids characteristic of apple juice;
[0416] SEPICIDE™HB: Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative agent.
[0417] CAPIGEL™98: Acrylates copolymer;
[0418] SEPICIDE™CI: Imidazoline urea, is a preservative agent;
[0419] SEPICIDE™HB: Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and isobutylparaben, is a preservative agent;
[0420] SEPICALM™VG: Mixture of N-palmitoyl proline in sodium salt form and Nymphaea Alba flower extract;
[0421] EUXYL™PE9010: Mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethyl hexyl glycerin;
[0422] PROTEOL™OAT: Mixture of N-lauryl amino acids obtained by total hydrolysis of oat protein as described in WO 94 / 26694;
[0423] MONTALINE™C40: Cocamidopropyl betainamide chloride salt
[0424] Monoethanolamine.
[0425] AMISOFT™CS-1 1: Sodium salt of N-cocoyl glutamate;
[0426] SIMULSOL™165: Mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glycerol stearate;
[0427] MONTANOV™202 (arachydilic alcohol, behenic alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), is a self-emulsifying composition such as those described in EP 0 977 626;
[0428] LANOL™99: Isononyl isononoate;
[0429] SEPIPLUS™400: Self-reversing inverse latex of polyacrylates in polyisobutene and comprising polysorbate 20, as described in W02005 / 040230; LIPACIDE™C8G: Capryloyl glycine marketed by SEPPIC;
[0430] MICROPEARL™M310: Crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate polymer in powder form and used as a texture modifier;
[0431] SEPIMAX™Zen (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6): Thickening polymer in powder form;
[0432] SEPIPLUS™S (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene & PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Cononut Ether): Self-inverting reverse latex;
[0433] AMONYL™265 BA (INCI name: Cocobetaine): Amphoteric foaming surfactant; SEPINOV™EMT10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer): Thickening copolymer in powder form;
[0434] EASYNOV™ (INCI name: Octyldodecanol and Octyldodecyl Xyloside and PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate): Lipophilic emulsifying agent;
[0435] SEPIMAT™H10 FW (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Squalane): Polymer used as a texturizing agent;
[0436] SEPITONIC™M3 (INCI name: Magnesium Aspartate and Zinc Gluconate and Copper Gluconate): Mixture used as an antiradical agent and energizer for cells; MONTANOV™L (INCI name: C14-22 Alcohols and C12-20 Alkylglucoside): Emulsifying agent;
[0437] MONTANOV™82 (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol and Coco-glucoside): Emulsifying agent; SIMULGEL™INS100 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloydimethyl Taurate Copolymer and isohexadecane and Polysorbate 60): Polymeric thickening agent;
Claims
DEMANDS 1. Composition (C1) comprising, for 100% of its mass: a) - From 60.0% mass to 75.0% mass of an organic solvent (SOi) selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, or a mixture of these compounds; b) ~ From 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass amount xi, expressed as mass equivalent of 1-O-(2-cafeoyi) maioyi-3,5-O-dicafeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / g of at least one compound of general formula (I): in which Qi, Q2, Ch, Q4 and Q5 independently represent the hydroxyl radical or one of its salts or a radical chosen from: (i) - The caffeoyl radical of formula (II): (ü) - The maloyl radical of formula (Ilia) or (lllb): O (Ilia) O OH (lllb); (iii) - The caffeine maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or (IVb): (iv) - The maloyl caffeoyl radical of formula (Va), (Vb), (Vc) or (Vd), it being understood that at least one of these radicals Qi, Q2, Q3, Q4 and Q5 represents neither the radical -OH; nor one of its salts; and c) - From 20.0% by mass to 35.0% by mass of water, to prevent or slow the appearance of unsightly signs related to inflammation of the skin and / or scalp in humans, or to eliminate them 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said composition (ES) comprises: - At least one compound of formula (la) corresponding to formula (!) for which Qi represents the maioyie radical of formula (Ilia) or of formula (i ISb) and Ch and Q4 and Gh identical, each represent the caféoyie radical of formula (II); - A compound of formula (Ib) corresponding to formula (I) for which Qi represents the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or formula (IVb), Ch and Ch each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II) and Ch represents the hydroxyl radical, and - At least one compound with the formula (the) chosen from: - The compound of formula (here) corresponding to formula (I) for which Ch and Ch each represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), Ch represents the hydroxyl radical and Q4 represents the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or formula (IVb); and - The compound of formula (the) corresponding to formula (I) for which Gh and Q4 represent the caffeoyl radical of formula (II), Ch represents the hydroxyl radical and Q5 represents the caffeoyl maloyl radical of formula (IVa) or of formula (IVb).
3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the composition (Ci) comprises, by mass, 100% of: - from 80.0% mass to 75.0% mass of 1,2-propanediol, - from 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass of a composition (ES) comprising a mass quantity xi, expressed as mass equivalent of 1-G-(2-cafeoyl)ma!oyl-3,5-O-dicafeoyl quinic acid, greater than or equal to 200 mg / of at least the compound of formula (la), and at least the compound of formula (Ib), and at least the compound of formula (le) - from 20.0% mass to 35.0% mass of water.
4. Composition (C2) comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient (E) and a composition (Ci) according to claim 3.
5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it is for topical use.
6. Composition (Ci) as defined in any one or all of claims 1 or 2 for use in a therapeutic treatment method intended to reduce and / or to eliminate tingling and / or prickling and / or itching and / or burning and / or redness and / or skin discomfort and / or tightness of the skin caused by inflammation of the human skin and / or scalp.
7. Composition (Ci) according to claim 5, characterized in that the tingling and / or prickling and / or itching and / or burning and / or redness and / or skin discomfort and / or tightness accompany skin pathologies such as urticaria, eczematous dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, herpes, photodermatoses, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, lichen, prurigo, pruritic diseases, fibrosis, collagen maturation disorders, scleroderma, eczema.