Formulation for personal care, method of moisturizing the skin or hair, and process for preparing a formulation for personal care.
A formulation using renewable esters from sugarcane-derived isoamyl alcohol and vegetable fatty acids addresses the need for natural, high-performance personal care products by enhancing skin permeation and moisturization, meeting consumer and environmental sustainability goals.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- BR102025019972
- Authority / Receiving Office
- BR · BR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-09-20
- Filing Date
- 2025-09-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-28
AI Technical Summary
There is a growing demand for natural and environmentally responsible personal care products that can provide high-performance moisturization while reducing reliance on petrochemical-derived emollients, which are currently dominant due to cost constraints.
A personal care formulation comprising a mixture of two renewable esters derived from natural sources, such as isoamyl caprylate and isoamyl caprate, which are synthesized through esterification of sugarcane-derived isoamyl alcohol and vegetable fatty acids, enhancing skin permeation and moisturization.
The formulation provides sustainable, high-performance moisturization with improved skin permeation of active ingredients, aligning with consumer demand for natural ingredients and reducing environmental impact.
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Description
59 Formulation for personal care, method of moisturizing the skin or hair, and process for preparing a formulation for personal care - Technical Area
[001] This description relates to the field of personal care formulations, particularly emollients for use in skin and hair care products. More specifically, the description provides a novel renewable ester emollient derived from natural sources, which can be used in personal care formulations to improve the skin permeation of active ingredients. The description also relates to methods of preparing such formulations and their use in skin or hair hydration. BACKGROUND
[002] Among the raw materials used in personal care products, emollients can be key ingredients in many formulations, playing an important role in performance (e.g., hydration) and sensory attributes (e.g., texture, spreadability, oily feel, etc.).
[003] Emollients can have different chemical structures, among which esters can be one of the classes. These ingredients can have the ability to remain on the skin's surface, act as lubricants, reduce flaking and improve appearance, decrease water loss, retain moisture, improve the penetration of cosmetics into the skin, and increase the texture of the formulation.
[004] Emollients can be found in products that offer moisturizing properties, such as those for body care (body creams, lotions, deodorants, etc.), hair care, and sun protection. In addition to all these benefits, some emollients can also act as solubilizers for UV filters in sunscreen formulations.
[005] Primarily due to cost constraints, most of Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 8 / 66 / 59: Emollients used today may be derived from petrochemical chemicals. The largest market share may be represented by emollients such as mineral oils, silicones, and petroleum-derived esters, such as isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate.
[006] In the personal care market, there may be a growing demand for natural ingredients, especially those derived from plants and renewable sources. Consumer awareness of the environmental impacts of products may have increased significantly, so companies must strive to provide high-performance and environmentally responsible products. In some respects, the growing interest in natural ingredients may present opportunities for the development of new raw materials. However, this trend may also present challenges for researchers and formulators tasked with providing products that contain new renewable ingredients while simultaneously improving performance. As esters can be obtained from sustainable and renewable raw materials, green esters may be gaining increasing market share in cosmetic formulations. SUMMARY
[007] This summary is provided to present a simplified selection of concepts which are described in more detail below. This summary is not intended to identify major or essential features of the subject matter claimed, nor is it intended to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the subject matter claimed.
[008] According to one aspect of the present description, a personal care formulation is provided. The personal care formulation includes a mixture of a first moisturizing agent, a second moisturizing agent, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The first moisturizing agent has the formula R-COO-C5H11, where R is a linear alkyl group. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 9 / 66 / 59 or branched of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and is 6. The second moisturizing agent has formula R-COO-C5H11, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n—CH3, where n is 8.
[009] In accordance with other aspects of this description, the personal care formulation may include one or more of the following features. The personal care formulation may additionally comprise retinyl acetate. The first moisturizing agent may comprise isoamyl caprylate. The second moisturizing agent may comprise isoamyl caprate. The first moisturizing agent may be from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation. The second moisturizing agent may represent from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation. The personal care formulation may further comprise at least one additive selected from the group consisting of thickeners, emulsifiers, emollients, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters and combinations thereof.
[0010] According to another aspect of the present description, a method of moisturizing the skin or hair is provided. The method includes applying to the skin or hair an effective amount of a personal care formulation comprising a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The first moisturizing agent has the formula R-COO-C5H11, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is 6. The second moisturizing agent has the formula R-COO-C5H11, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3, where n is 8.
[0011] In accordance with other aspects of the present description, the method may include one or more of the following features. The personal care formulation may additionally comprise retinyl acetate. The first moisturizing agent may comprise isoamyl caprylate. The Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 10 / 66 / 59. The second moisturizing agent may comprise isoamyl caprate. The first moisturizing agent may represent from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation. The second moisturizing agent may represent from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation. The personal care formulation may further comprise at least one additive selected from the group consisting of thickeners, emulsifiers, emollients, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters and combinations thereof.
[0012] According to another aspect of the present description, a process is provided for preparing a personal care formulation. The process includes preparing a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent by means of an esterification reaction of an alcohol derived from sugarcane and a fatty acid derived from a vegetable source. The first moisturizing agent has the formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n—CH3 and n is 6. The second moisturizing agent has the formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n—CH3, wherein n is 8. The process further includes combining the mixture of the first moisturizing agent and the second moisturizing agent with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
[0013] According to other aspects of the present description, the process may include one or more of the following features. The personal care formulation may additionally comprise retinyl acetate. The first moisturizing agent may comprise isoamyl caprylate. The second moisturizing agent may comprise isoamyl caprate. The first moisturizing agent may be from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation, and the second moisturizing agent may be from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation. The personal care formulation may further comprise at least one additive selected from the group consisting of thickeners, Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 11 / 66 / 59 emulsifiers, emollients, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters and combinations thereof.
[0014] The previous general description of the illustrative modalities and the detailed description below are merely exemplary aspects of the precepts of this description and are not restrictive. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0015] The description can be understood by considering the following detailed description of various embodiments in connection with the attached drawings. Non-limiting and non-exhaustive examples are described with reference to the following figures.
[0016] Figure 1 illustrates a cross-section of the epidermis, according to aspects of the present description.
[0017] Figure 2 illustrates potential pathways of a topical formulation through the stratum corneum, according to a modality.
[0018] Figure 3 illustrates a flowchart for creating a moisturizing composition, according to aspects of the present description.
[0019] Figure 4 illustrates a flowchart for applying a personal care formulation, according to a modality.
[0020] Figure 5A shows stages of cell growth in a laboratory culture plate, according to aspects of the present description.
[0021] Figure 5B illustrates a microscopic cross-section of human skin tissue, according to an embodiment.
[0022] Figure 6A shows a multi-well plate containing liquid samples, according to one embodiment.
[0023] Figure 6B illustrates a multi-well plate with a sample being placed, in accordance with aspects of the present description.
[0024] Figure 7A illustrates a block diagram of an experimental design system for evaluating emollients, according to one modality. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 12 / 66 / 59
[0025] Figure 7B shows an experimental design for comparing retinyl acetate formulations, according to aspects of the present description.
[0026] Figure 8 illustrates a bar graph comparing emollient permeation in reconstructed human epidermis, according to a modality.
[0027] Figure 9 illustrates a graph showing the accumulated retinyl acetate over time, according to aspects of the present description.
[0028] Figure 10 shows a bar graph comparing the concentration of retinyl acetate in the reconstructed human epidermis, according to aspects of the present description. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0029] For the purpose of promoting understanding of the principles of description, reference will now be made to the embodiments illustrated in the drawings, and specific language will be used to describe them. However, it should be understood that no limitation of the scope of the description is intended by the illustration and description of certain embodiments of the description. Furthermore, any alterations and / or modifications of the embodiments illustrated and / or described are contemplated as being within the scope of the present description. In addition, any other applications of the principles of description, as illustrated and / or described herein, as would normally occur to a specialist in the field to which the description refers, are contemplated as being within the scope of the present description.
[0030] The following description presents illustrative aspects of the present description. It should be recognized, however, that such description is not intended to be a limitation on the scope of the present description. Instead, the description also encompasses combinations and modifications of those illustrative aspects described herein.
[0031] Several implementations have been described. However, it will be Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 13 / 66 / 59, understood that various modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the description. Consequently, other implementations are within the scope of the following claims.
[0032] This description provides a moisturizing agent (e.g., emollient) to improve the permeation of an active ingredient in a personal care formulation. The emollient may include an ester. The ester, which may belong to the Oxismooth® line (e.g., Oxismooth® CO, Oxismooth® CP, Oxismooth® ST), may be significantly more sustainable compared to those already on the market and may be derived from 100% natural and renewable sources. The line is made with 100% renewable sources: isoamyl alcohol from sugarcane and other oleochemical derivatives to create innovative and sustainable formulations. Certified by the COSMOS standard, the line is neither phototoxic nor cytotoxic. Its properties also allow the replacement of silicones in different formulations, contributing to the sustainability of the final product.The Oxismooth® ester line was developed based on the company's Greenformance concept (for example, Indorama Oxiteno, which is part of Indorama Ventures), which combines sustainability and performance. The Greenformance concept is based on three main pillars: 1. Use of renewable resources (natural raw materials replacing synthetic and petrochemical ones), 2. Environmental care (biodegradable and concentrated products to reduce energy, water and packaging consumption) and 3. Health and well-being (high-purity and high-performance formulas that are gentle and non-irritating).
[0033] The OXISMOOTH® line consists of three different emollient esters. Each of them (OXISMOOTH® CO, OXISMOOTH® CP and OXISMOOTH® ST) has been designed to provide different sensory profiles in a wide range of applications, including creams and lotions, hair care, deodorant, baby care, hair dyes, etc. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 14 / 66 / 59 The overall benefits of these solutions are 100% renewable source, COSMOS - ECOCERT certified, moisturizing and conditioning properties, high spreadability, rapid absorption, pleasant sensory feel, non-greasy (i.e., oil-free), preservative-free, easy handling, incorporation (e.g., cold incorporation), suitable (e.g., high compatibility) for all cosmetic formulations.
[0034] OXISMOOTH® CO is a natural-based conditioning agent that replaces silicone in skin and hair formulations.
[0035] OXISMOOTH® CP is a green emollient with high spreadability and rapid absorption.
[0036] OXISMOOTH® ST is a green emollient with high spreadability, low stickiness and an excellent alternative to mineral oils.
[0037] Any of the esters can be incorporated into personal care formulations, such as skin care, hair care, men's cosmetics, and baby care products, where it can perform multiple functions. The ester can act as a moisturizing or emollient agent, providing hydrating and texture-enhancing properties while also improving the skin permeation of active ingredients (e.g., retinyl acetate) in the formulation. This dual functionality can allow for greater efficacy of personal care formulations (e.g., skin care), potentially allowing the use of lower concentrations of active ingredients. Furthermore, the use of the ester may align with the growing consumer demand for natural and environmentally responsible ingredients in personal care products, offering a sustainable alternative to traditional emollients derived from petrochemicals.In addition to the environmental nature of the molecules themselves, the production process can be optimized to minimize losses and waste generation, resulting in a streamlined supply chain and lifecycle. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 15 / 66 / 59 fully optimized product. In some embodiments, the description also covers methods for preparing personal care formulations incorporating the ester, as well as methods for using such formulations to moisturize the skin or hair.
[0038] The skin (e.g., human skin) is a complex organ that acts as the body's first protective barrier. The skin is a multilayered tissue, and one of its functions is to protect the body against external circumstances, acting as an effective barrier to the absorption of exogenous particles. The skin can include three main layers, such as the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous tissue (e.g., hypodermis). The dermis is a vascularized tissue (e.g., it contains blood vessels). The dermis can be hydrophilic. The subcutaneous tissue can include adipocytes. The subcutaneous tissue can be a hydrophilic layer. Figure 1 illustrates the structure of the epidermis, which is relevant to skin permeation. The epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin, can be divided into five layers: stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, and stratum basale. The epidermis is not a vascularized tissue (e.g., it does not have blood vessels).The epidermis can include non-viable tissue (stratum corneum) and viable tissue (stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, and stratum basale). Non-viable tissue can be a lipophilic layer and may contain 15% water. Viable tissue can be a hydrophilic layer and may contain 70% water. The stratum corneum, the outermost layer, is represented as multiple layers of flattened cells. An enlarged inset of the stratum corneum shows the detailed structure of its lipid bilayers, which are crucial for the skin's barrier function. This detailed representation of skin structure is important for understanding how emollient and active ingredients in personal care formulations can interact with and penetrate the different layers of the epidermis.
[0039] The stratum corneum can act as a critical part of the barrier function for the penetration of topical products. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 16 / 66 / 59
[0040] The intercellular lipid matrix may include a mixture of fatty acids, ceramides, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, and a small fraction of cholesterol sulfate. Considering this composition and its water resistance, the stratum corneum is considered the main layer to be penetrated to allow the product to permeate the skin.
[0041] In some respects, personal care compositions can be formulated to target specific layers of the epidermis. For example, certain active ingredients may be more effective when administered to the basal layer, where new skin cells are produced, while others may be designed to act on the stratum corneum to improve the appearance of the skin's surface and barrier function. The composition can be formulated to optimize the penetration of active ingredients and emollient through the stratum corneum and into the deeper layers of the epidermis.
[0042] In some cases, the composition may include additional ingredients that enhance the permeation of the active ingredients and emollient through the stratum corneum. This may include penetration enhancers, solvents, or other ingredients known in the art to improve skin permeation. The composition may also include ingredients that help maintain the integrity of the lipid bilayers of the stratum corneum, such as ceramides, cholesterol, or fatty acids, which may further improve the distribution of the active ingredients and emollient to the target layers of the epidermis.
[0043] In some embodiments, the composition may provide a sustained release of the active ingredients and emollient over time. This can be achieved, for example, by encapsulating the active ingredients and emollient in microspheres, liposomes, or other delivery systems that gradually release the ingredients into the skin. This can provide prolonged hydration and treatment effects, as well as reduce the frequency of application required. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 17 / 66 / 59
[0044] In some cases, the composition may be formulated to minimize irritation or sensitivity reactions that can sometimes occur with topical applications. This can be particularly important when the composition includes active ingredients that are known to cause skin irritation, such as certain retinoids or acids. The composition may include soothing or anti-inflammatory ingredients to neutralize any potential irritation, and the emollient itself may also have soothing or anti-inflammatory properties.
[0045] In some respects, the composition may be formulated for specific skin types or conditions. For example, the composition may be formulated for dry skin, oily skin, sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, aging skin, or other skin types or conditions. The composition may include additional ingredients that are beneficial to the specific skin type or condition, and the amount or type of emollient and active ingredients may be adjusted accordingly.
[0046] Figure 2 illustrates the three potential pathways for a topical or transdermal formulation to penetrate the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. These pathways include intercellular penetration, follicular penetration, and transcellular penetration.
[0047] In some respects, the intercellular penetration pathway, represented by arrow A in Figure 2, involves the movement of the formulation between the skin cells of the stratum corneum. This pathway may be particularly relevant for the delivery of personal care formulations containing one or more moisturizing agents. The lipophilic nature of these agents may facilitate their movement through the lipid-rich environment of the intercellular spaces.
[0048] In some cases, the follicular penetration pathway, represented by arrow B in Figure 2, involves the movement of the formulation through the hair follicles present in the skin. This pathway can be particularly Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 18 / 66 / 59 relevant to formulations applied to areas of skin with a high density of hair follicles, such as the scalp or body. The formulation may penetrate the hair follicles and then diffuse into the surrounding skin tissue.
[0049] In some embodiments, the transcellular penetration pathway, represented by arrow C in Figure 2, involves the movement of the formulation directly through the skin cells of the stratum corneum. This pathway may be particularly relevant for smaller molecules in the formulation that can pass through cell membranes.
[0050] In some respects, personal care formulations can optimize the penetration of the moisturizing agent and / or active ingredient through one or more of these pathways. For example, the formulation may include ingredients that improve intercellular penetration, such as penetration enhancers or solvents. Alternatively, the formulation may increase follicular penetration, for example, by including ingredients that increase the solubility of the agents in sebum, the oily substance present in hair follicles. In some cases, the formulation may increase transcellular penetration, for example, by including ingredients that increase the permeability of skin cell membranes.
[0051] In some embodiments, the personal care formulation may utilize multiple penetration pathways simultaneously. For example, the formulation may include a combination of ingredients that enhance intercellular and follicular penetration. This could potentially increase the overall penetration of the moisturizing agent into the skin, thereby enhancing the moisturizing effect of the formulation.
[0052] The examples demonstrate the cutaneous permeation of the green emollient through the epidermis. Cutaneous permeation can be distinguished by dermal penetration and dermal permeation. Dermal penetration can be described as the movement of a chemical substance from the outer surface of the skin into the epidermis, but not necessarily into the circulatory system. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 19 / 66 / 59 Dermal permeation can be described as the penetration of one layer of skin into another, which is functionally and structurally different from the first layer.
[0053] Dermal penetration is a consideration in the development of topical personal care formulations, as it can determine how effectively the active ingredient(s) and moisturizing agent(s) can penetrate the skin layers. Dermal penetration can be influenced by several factors, including the molecular size, lipophilicity, and chemical structure of the compounds in the formulation. Personal care formulation ingredients can achieve optimal dermal penetration, allowing them to effectively hydrate and nourish the skin without necessarily entering the bloodstream. Targeted penetration can help maximize the effectiveness of the personal care formulation while minimizing potential systemic effects.
[0054] The process of dermal permeation involves the movement of compounds through various layers of the skin, including the stratum corneum, the viable epidermis, and the dermis. Each of these layers presents different barriers and challenges to permeation. A compound's ability to permeate these layers depends on factors such as its molecular weight, lipophilicity, and the formulation in which it is administered. Dermal permeation can be crucial to the efficacy of topical formulations, as it allows active ingredients to reach their intended target sites in the skin. Dermal permeation can be particularly important for the moisturizing agent to effectively hydrate and nourish the skin. The synergistic combination of ingredients in a personal care formulation can enhance dermal permeation.Enhanced permeation can lead to better skin hydration, as the active ingredients are able to reach deeper layers where they can provide more effective and lasting hydration.
[0055] Personal care formulations may include one or more. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 20 / 66 / 59 ingredients. In some examples, a personal care formulation may include a moisturizing agent. In some examples, a personal care formulation may include a moisturizing agent and an active ingredient. In some examples, a personal care formulation may include a moisturizing agent, an active ingredient, and one or more additives. The moisturizing agent may be an emollient. The emollient may include an ester. The additive may include a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The additive may include additional moisturizing agents. In some examples, a personal care formulation may include a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent. In some examples, a personal care formulation may include a first moisturizing agent, a second moisturizing agent, and an active ingredient.In some embodiments, a personal care formulation may include a primary moisturizing agent, a secondary moisturizing agent, an active ingredient, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
[0056] The ester can be synthesized from an alcohol (e.g., amyl alcohol, isoamyl alcohol, etc.) and a fatty acid (e.g., vegetable oil). The alcohol (e.g., amyl alcohol, isoamyl alcohol, etc.) can be derived from sugarcane, which can be a widely available natural raw material in Brazil. The fatty acids can be derived from a plant source, such as coconut or palm kernel oil. The fatty acid can be obtained from an environmentally responsible source. Distinct cuts of fatty acid chain lengths can be used to produce these emollients, providing them with different sensory properties (e.g., spreadability and oiliness feel), allowing formulators to create innovative and sustainable formulations for the personal care market.
[0057] Amyl alcohol, also known as pentanol, is a class of organic compounds with the general formula C5H11OH. The alcohol Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 21 / 66 / 59 Isoamyl alcohol, a specific isomer of amyl alcohol with the formula (CH3)2CHCH2CH2OH, can be used as a reagent in the synthesis of the moisturizing agent. Isoamyl alcohol, also known as isopentyl alcohol or 3-methyl-1-butanol, is a five-carbon branched alcohol with the chemical formula (CH3)2CHCH2CH2OH. Isoamyl alcohol can be a reagent in the esterification reaction to produce the moisturizing agent. Isoamyl alcohol can be derived from sugarcane through fermentation and distillation processes. The properties of isoamyl alcohol can vary depending on its source and the specific isomer involved. Isoamyl alcohol generally refers to one of several isomers of pentyl alcohol with the formula C5H12O. The differences in properties are influenced by the position of the hydroxyl group (-OH) and the branching of the carbon chain.Common isomers of isoamyl alcohol include isoamyl alcohol (3-methyl-1-butanol), 2-methyl-1-butanol, and 1-pentanol. Properties affected by isomerism include boiling and melting points, solubility, odor and taste, reactivity, and uses in different applications.
[0058] The renewable source of isoamyl alcohol (e.g., from sugarcane) contributes to the sustainable nature of the resulting ester emollient, aligning with the growing demand for natural and environmentally responsible ingredients in personal care products. The use of isoamyl alcohol derived from sugarcane differentiates it from synthetic or petroleum-derived alternatives, emphasizing the commitment to renewable resources in the formulation of the personal care product. Sugarcane can be a widely available natural raw material, especially in Brazil. Isoamyl alcohol derived from sugarcane can affect the final properties of the moisturizing agent, including its molecular structure, polarity, and potential interactions with the skin or hair.
[0059] The fatty acid used in the synthesis of the moisturizing agent can be derived from plant sources, such as coconut or palm kernel oil. The oil of Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 22 / 66 / 59. Coconut oil can be derived from the pulp of mature coconuts harvested from the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera), while palm kernel oil can be extracted from the kernel or seed of the oil palm fruit (Elaeis guineensis). These fatty acids are typically octanoic (caprylic) acid or decanoic (capric) acid, which correspond to chains of 8 and 10 carbon atoms, respectively. The use of these medium-chain fatty acids contributes to the unique properties of the resulting ester emollient, including its spreadability, skin feel, and moisturizing capacity. The choice of plant-derived fatty acids aligns with the goal of creating a sustainable and renewable ingredient for personal care formulations. The specific fatty acid used can affect the final properties of the moisturizing agent, such as its melting point, viscosity, and skin penetration characteristics.By using fatty acids from environmentally responsible sources, the formulation further enhances its ecological profile while maintaining high performance as an emollient in skincare applications.
[0060] The ester may have a formula R—C(=O)—O—Ri, where R—C(=O) represents an acyl group, R may be an alkyl or aryl group, and Ri represents an alkyl group. R—C(=O) includes a carbonyl group (C=O) bonded to an alkyl or aryl group. Radicals of R or R1 are not normally part of the stable structure of the ester, but may be involved in ester-related formation or reaction processes. In some examples, R is a linear or branched alkyl group, and Ri is a linear or branched alkyl group with 6 or fewer carbons. In some examples, R is a linear or branched alkyl group with 7 carbons and Ri is a linear or branched alkyl group with 6 or fewer carbons. In some examples, R is a linear or branched alkyl group with 9 carbons and Ri is a linear or branched alkyl group with 6 or fewer carbons. In some examples, R is a linear or branched alkyl group, and R1 is an alkyl group. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 23 / 66 / 59 linear or branched with 5 carbons. In some examples, R is a linear or branched alkyl group with 7 carbons and Ri is a linear or branched alkyl group with 5 carbons. In some examples, R is a linear or branched alkyl group with 9 carbons and R1 is a linear or branched alkyl group with 5 carbons. In some examples, R is a linear or branched alkyl group of the formula -(CH2)n-CH3, where n is 6 to 12 and Ri is a branched alkyl group. In some examples, R is a linear or branched alkyl group of the formula -(CH2)n-CH3, where n is 6, 7, 11 and 12, and R1 is a branched alkyl group.
[0061] An acyl group R is a functional group derived from a carboxylic acid by removing the hydroxyl group (-OH). The acyl group contributes to the overall structure and properties of the ester, influencing characteristics such as its melting point, viscosity, and feel on the skin. The specific acyl group used can affect the emollient properties of the resulting ester, including its spreadability and moisturizing efficacy when incorporated into personal care formulations. The alkyl group R1 can be derived from an alcohol or can be an alcohol residue. The specific structure of the alkyl group R1 influences properties such as the melting point, viscosity, and skin penetration characteristics of the resulting moisturizing agent. For example, a longer alkyl chain can increase the emollient properties of the moisturizing agent, while a branched chain can affect its spreadability on the skin.The choice of alkyl radical length and structure in the moisturizing agent can be tailored to optimize the desired properties of the personal care formulation.
[0062] The ester may have the formula R-COO-C5H11, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is a natural number. The ester may have the formula R-COO-C5H11, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is 6. The ester may have Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 24 / 66 / 59 a formula R-COO-C5H11, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n—CH3 and is 8.
[0063] The ester may have a formula R—COO—CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is a natural number. In the context of the ester formula R-COO—CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, the acyl group is represented by RC(=O)-, where R is the alkyl group derived from the fatty acid used in the esterification reaction. In some examples, the ester may have a formula R-COO—CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is 6 to 8. In some examples, the ester may have a formula CH3-(CH2)6—COO—CH2CH2CH(CH3)2. In some examples, the ester may be isoamyl octanoate (isoamyl caprylate). In some examples, the ester may have the formula CH3—(CH2)8—COO—CH2CH2CH(CH3)2. In some examples, the ester may be isoamyl decanoate (isoamyl caprate).
[0064] In the described moisturizing agent, the acyl group is derived from octanoic (caprylic) acid or decanoic (capric) acid, depending on whether n is 6 or 8 in the formula -(CH2)n—CH3. In this case, the fatty acid is typically octanoic (caprylic) acid when n is 6, or decanoic (capric) acid when n is 8. These medium-chain fatty acids are chosen for their specific properties that contribute to the emollient and moisturizing capabilities of the resulting ester. The choice of alkyl group length can affect various properties of the moisturizing agent, such as its melting point, viscosity, and skin penetration characteristics, which in turn influences the performance and feel of the personal care formulation.
[0065] The ester may have a formula R—COO—CH2CH2CH(Ri)2R2 where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of the formula -(CH2)n-CH3, with n between 1 and 12, Ri is independent, H, C1-C10 alkyl, or a substituted alkyl group, and R2 is a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl group. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 25 / 66 / 59 replaced. In some cases, the two R1 groups may be attached to the same carbon, forming a branched structure. In some cases, the total number of carbon atoms in the acyl portion (R-CO-) is 4 to 9. In some cases, the total number of carbon atoms in the acyl group is 8 carbons. In some cases, the total number of carbons in the acyl group is 10 carbons.
[0066] In some cases, R is a linear alkyl group of the formula -(CH2)n—CH3, with n between 2 and 7 (i.e., 3-8 carbons in total for R) and / or, Ri is independently, H or C1-C3 alkyl and / or R2 is an unsubstituted linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group. In some cases, the two R1 groups may be attached to the same carbon, forming a branched structure. In some cases, the total number of carbon atoms in the acyl portion (RCO-) is from 4 to 9.
[0067] In some cases, R is a linear alkyl group of the formula -(CH2)n-CH3, with n between 2 and 7 (i.e., 3-8 carbons in total for R) and / or, Ri is independently, H or C1-C3 alkyl and / or R2 is an unsubstituted linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group. In some cases, the two R1 groups may be attached to the same carbon, forming a branched structure.
[0068] In some cases, R is a linear alkyl group of the formula -(CH2)n-CH3, with n between 1 and 12 (i.e., 2-13 carbons in total for R) and / or, R1 is independently, H or C1-C5 alkyl with two R1 groups attached to the same carbon, forming a branched structure and / or R2 is an unsubstituted linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl group.
[0069] In some cases, R is a linear alkyl group of the formula -(CH2)n-CH3, with n between 1 and 12 (i.e., 2-13 carbons in total for R) and / or, R1 is independently, H or C1-C8 alkyl with two R1 groups attached to the same carbon, forming a branched structure and / or R2 is an unsubstituted linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl group.
[0070] In some cases, R1 is an alkyl group substituted with a Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 26 / 66 / 59 single substituent (e.g., methyl group, hydroxyl group, etc.). Alkyl groups are hydrocarbon chains derived from alkanes, usually represented as R or Ri, with structures such as -CH3 (methyl), -CH2CH3 (ethyl), -CH2CH2CH3 (propyl), and so on. Substituted alkyl groups are alkyl groups that have one or more atoms or groups attached to the main carbon chain, which modifies the basic structure. Single substituent means that only one additional group or atom is attached to the main alkyl chain.
[0071] In some examples, the personal care formulation may include a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent, which are different compounds. The different compounds may be based on different formulas or on the same formula with different variables. In some examples, the personal care formulation may include a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent wherein each of the first moisturizing agent and the second moisturizing agent has a formula R—COO—CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is a natural number, and the first moisturizing agent has a different n from the second moisturizing agent.In some examples, the personal care formulation may include a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent, where each of the first moisturizing agent and the second moisturizing agent has the formula R-COO-CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3, en is a natural number, en is 6 for the first moisturizing agent and en is 8 for the second moisturizing agent.
[0072] In some aspects, the personal care formulation may include a moisturizing agent of formula R-COO-CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n—CH3. In this formula, n can be an integer from 6 to 8, indicating that the chain Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 27 / 66 / 59 alkyl can vary in length from 7 to 9 carbon atoms in total. In some cases, n may be 6 or 8, corresponding to the use of octanoic (caprylic) acid or decanoic (capric) acid, respectively, in the synthesis of the moisturizing agent. The specific value of n can be selected based on several factors, such as the desired properties of the moisturizing agent, the available sources of fatty acids, and the specific requirements of the personal care formulation.
[0073] In some embodiments, the moisturizing agent may be present at about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation, such as 5% by weight. The specific concentration of the moisturizing agent in the formulation may be adjusted based on several factors, such as the desired moisturizing effect, the stability of the formulation, the sensory properties of the formulation, or other characteristics. For example, a higher concentration of the moisturizing agent may provide a stronger moisturizing effect, while a lower concentration may result in a lighter, less oily feel.
[0074] In some cases, the personal care formulation may also include at least one additional moisturizing agent. The additional moisturizing agent may be any agent suitable for providing moisturizing benefits to the skin or hair. Non-limiting examples of additional moisturizing agents include isoamyl caprylate, isoamyl caprate, caprylic triglyceride, capric triglyceride, glycerol, urea, hydroxyalkylurea, lactic acid, sodium lactate, and sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate. The additional moisturizing agent may be present at about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, such as 5% by weight, of the personal care formulation. The specific concentration of the additional moisturizing agent in the formulation may be adjusted based on various factors such as the desired moisturizing effect, the stability of the formulation, the sensory properties of the formulation, or other characteristics. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 28 / 66 / 59
[0075] In some respects, the (first) moisturizing agent and at least one (second) additional moisturizing agent may be present in a synergistically effective moisturizing ratio. This ratio may be determined based on the desired moisturizing effect of the formulation, the specific properties of the moisturizing agents, and other factors. In some cases, the ratio may be adjusted to optimize the moisturizing effect, the stability of the formulation, the sensory properties of the formulation, or other characteristics. For example, a higher ratio of the moisturizing agent to the additional moisturizing agent may provide a stronger moisturizing effect, while a lower ratio may result in a lighter, less oily feel.
[0076] In some aspects, the personal care formulation may include at least one additional moisturizing agent (secondary). This additional moisturizing agent may be selected from a group consisting of glycerol, urea, hydroxyalkylurea, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, and combinations thereof. In some cases, the additional moisturizing agent may specifically be hydroxyethylurea. The inclusion of an additional moisturizing agent may enhance the moisturizing properties of the formulation, providing additional benefits to the skin or hair.
[0077] In some embodiments, the personal care formulation may include one or more additives, such as solvent, thickener, film former, stabilizer, chelating agent, emollient, emulsifier, moisturizer, antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, preservative, pH adjuster, etc. A solvent may include water. Examples of thickeners include acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and cetostearyl alcohol. Examples of emulsifiers include cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20. Examples of emollients include cetostearyl alcohol, isoamyl caprylate / caprate, and caprylic / capric triglyceride. Examples of chelating agents Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 29 / 66 / 59, includes disodium EDTA and citric acid. Examples of preservatives include phenoxyethanol and BHT. Examples of pH adjusters include sodium hydroxide and citric acid. Any of these additives may be considered a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, which refers to the base or carrier substance used in cosmetic formulations that delivers active ingredients to the skin or hair while ensuring that the product is stable, effective, and pleasant to use. One or more additives may be at least 0.1% by weight, such as 0.2% by weight, 0.5% by weight, 1% by weight, etc. of the personal care formulation.
[0078] A cosmetically acceptable vehicle in a cosmetic product may have the following properties: (1) Stabilizes — maintains the stability of the active ingredients, preventing degradation or separation of the product; (2) Improves application — improves the texture, spreadability, and absorption of the product into the skin or hair; (3) Non-irritating — safe, non-toxic, and non-sensitizing when used regularly on the skin or hair; and (4) Compatibility — does not interfere with the effectiveness of the active ingredients in the formulation. Common examples of cosmetically acceptable vehicles include water, oils, emulsifiers, silicones, and certain polymers, each of which supports the overall function and feel of the product while carrying the active components to the target area.
[0079] In some embodiments, the personal care formulation may further comprise a thickener and an emulsifier, each present in at least 0.1% by weight of the personal care formulation. The thickener may serve to increase the viscosity of the formulation, improving its texture and spreadability. The emulsifier may help to stabilize the formulation, preventing the separation of its components and ensuring a uniform distribution of the moisturizing agent and the additional moisturizing agent throughout the formulation.
[0080] In some cases, the formulation of personal care may Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 30 / 66 / 59, further includes at least one additive selected from the group consisting of active sunscreens, active antiperspirants, anti-acne agents, anti-dandruff agents, emollients, and combinations thereof. These additives may provide additional benefits to the skin or hair, improving the overall performance of the personal care formulation. For example, an active sunscreen may provide protection against UV radiation, an active antiperspirant may reduce perspiration, an anti-acne agent may help prevent or treat acne, an anti-dandruff agent may help control dandruff, and an emollient may provide additional moisturizing benefits. The specific type and quantity of additive included in the formulation may depend on the desired properties and benefits of the formulation.
[0081] In some respects, the personal care formulation may be specifically an anti-aging cream. This anti-aging cream may include a (first) moisturizing agent of formula R-COO-CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3, where n is from 6 to 8, and at least one additional moisturizing agent (second, third, etc.). The at least one additional moisturizing agent may have the formula R-COO-CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, where R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3, where n is different from that of the (first) moisturizing agent. The anti-aging cream may also include retinol acetate as an active ingredient. Retinol acetate is a form of vitamin A known for its anti-aging properties, such as reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin texture, and promoting cell renewal.
[0082] In some cases, the (first) moisturizing agent and at least one additional moisturizing agent (second, third, etc.) may be present in the anti-aging cream in a synergistically effective moisturizing ratio. This ratio can be determined based on the moisturizing effect. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 31 / 66 / 59 desired from the cream, in the specific properties of the moisturizing agents and in other factors. For example, a higher ratio of moisturizing agent to additional moisturizing agent may provide a stronger moisturizing effect, while a lower ratio may result in a lighter, less oily feel.
[0083] In some embodiments, the anti-aging cream may be formulated to increase the permeation of retinyl acetate into the skin. The moisturizing agent may act as a penetration enhancer, helping to release retinyl acetate more effectively into the skin. This increased skin permeation may result in greater efficacy of the anti-aging cream, potentially leading to more noticeable anti-aging effects.
[0084] In some respects, anti-aging cream can be formulated for specific skin types or conditions. For example, the cream can be formulated for dry skin, oily skin, sensitive skin, mature skin, or other skin types or conditions. The cream may include additional ingredients that are beneficial for the specific skin type or condition, and the amount or type of moisturizing agent and retinol acetate can be adjusted accordingly.
[0085] In some cases, anti-aging cream can be applied to the skin using a variety of methods. For example, the cream can be applied using a finger, a brush, a sponge, a roller, a spray, or another suitable application tool. The specific application method may depend on several factors, such as the form of the cream, the target area of application, and the desired uniformity or precision of the application.
[0086] Figure 3 illustrates a method 100 for creating a moisturizing composition. The method 100 includes two main steps: the synthesis of a moisturizing agent 102 and the combination of this agent with additional ingredients 104 to form the final personal care formulation. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 32 / 66 / 59
[0087] In step 102, a moisturizing agent is prepared. The moisturizing agent is synthesized by means of an esterification reaction of an alcohol. The alcohol reacts with a fatty acid to form the ester. The esterification reaction can be carried out in the presence of an acid catalyst and under heat conditions to bring the reaction to completion. The resulting ester, which is the moisturizing agent, retains the alkyl group of the alcohol and the linear alkyl chain of the fatty acid.
[0088] After the synthesis of the moisturizing agent, method 100 proceeds to step 104. In this step, the moisturizing agent is combined with at least one additional moisturizing agent and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to form the personal care formulation. The additional moisturizing agent can be any suitable agent known in the art to provide moisturizing benefits to the skin or hair. Non-limiting examples of additional moisturizing agents include glycerol, urea, hydroxyalkylurea, lactic acid, sodium lactate, and sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle serves as a carrier for the moisturizing agents and can be any suitable vehicle known in the art for use in personal care formulations. The vehicle can be a liquid, semi-solid, or solid material that is safe for topical application and can facilitate the application of the moisturizing agents to the skin or hair.
[0089] In some respects, moisturizing agents are combined in an effective synergistic moisturizing ratio. This ratio can be determined based on the desired moisturizing effect of the formulation, the specific properties of the moisturizing agents, and other factors. In some cases, the ratio can be adjusted to optimize the moisturizing effect, the stability of the formulation, the sensory properties of the formulation, or other characteristics.
[0090] In some embodiments, method 100 may also include additional steps, such as adding other ingredients to the formulation, adjusting Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 33 / 66 / 59 of the formulation's pH or packaging the formulation in suitable containers for storage and use. The specific steps and sequence of steps in method 100 may vary depending on the specific requirements of the personal care formulation and the desired properties of the final product.
[0091] Figure 4 illustrates a flowchart for a method 200 of applying a personal care formulation. Method 200 comprises two steps to moisturize the skin or hair. Step 202 involves dispensing a personal care formulation. This formulation may contain a (first) moisturizing agent, an (additional) moisturizing agent, an active ingredient, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. Step 204 involves applying an effective amount of the personal care formulation to the skin or hair.
[0092] In step 202, a personal care formulation is provided. The formulation may include a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent. The moisturizing agents may be present in a synergistically effective moisturizing ratio.
[0093] In some respects, personal care formulations may be provided in a variety of forms suitable for topical application to the skin or hair. For example, the formulation may be provided as a cream, lotion, gel, serum, ointment, or other suitable form. The specific form of the formulation may depend on several factors, such as the desired method of application, the target area of application, the specific skin or hair type, and the desired sensory properties of the formulation.
[0094] In step 104, an effective amount of the personal care formulation is applied to the skin or hair. The effective amount can be determined based on the desired moisturizing effect, the specific properties of the moisturizing agents, and other factors. In some cases, the effective amount can be adjusted to optimize the moisturizing effect. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 34 / 66 / 59 stability of the formulation, the sensory properties of the formulation or other characteristics.
[0095] In some respects, personal care formulations can be applied to the skin or hair using a variety of methods. For example, the formulation can be applied using a finger, a brush, a sponge, a roller, a spray, or another suitable application tool. The specific application method may depend on several factors, such as the form of the formulation, the target area of application, and the desired uniformity or precision of the application.
[0096] In some embodiments, method 200 may also include additional steps, such as preparing the skin or hair for application, allowing the formulation to be absorbed or dry after application, or applying additional products or treatments before or after formulation. The specific steps and sequence of steps in method 200 may vary depending on the specific requirements of the personal care formulation and the desired properties of the final product.
[0097] Interactions between active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), the skin, and the vehicle can determine: (1) drug release, (2) penetration through the stratum corneum (SC), and / or (3) penetration through viable skin layers. Drug release can refer to the process by which a drug is released from a delivery system into the body, where it can become available for absorption and therapeutic action. Drug release can be distinguished by the release rate, duration of release, and / or amount of release. Factors to be considered in selecting an API include, for example, molecular weight (<600 Da); low melting point (<200 °C), which is related to appropriate solubility; a high but stable partition coefficient, because very high partition coefficients can increase drug retention, thus inhibiting drug elimination from the skin; and / or solubility in water and oils to achieve Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 35 / 66 29 / 59 an appropriate concentration gradient and increase the diffusion force on the skin. There may be a combination of several factors to ensure the correct pathway for the API to enter the skin.
[0098] Examples include the following steps: molecule synthesis, formulation of an anti-aging cream with retinyl acetate, development of a skin permeation methodology to evaluate cream permeation and retinyl acetate permeation, and quantification of cream and retinyl acetate permeation. These examples demonstrate the successful synthesis of Oxismooth® CP, its incorporation into anti-aging cream formulations, and its ability to increase the skin permeation of retinyl acetate, providing evidence of its potential as a novel and sustainable emollient for skincare applications. EXAMPLES Example 1: Synthesis of Oxismooth® CP
[0099] The synthesis of Oxismooth® CP, an ester emollient, was carried out using isoamyl alcohol and fatty acids, specifically octanoic (caprylic) acid and decanoic (capric) acid, on an industrial scale.
[00100] The synthesis process involved an esterification reaction, resulting in the formation of the ester emollient, as shown in Table 1. Table 1 Oxismooth® (CH3)2CHCH2CH2OH + CH3(CH2)6COOH + H+CH3(CH2)6COOCH2CH2CH(CH3)2 + CP H2O Isoamyl alcohol, octanoic (caprylic) acid, isoamyl octanoate (caprylate) (CH3)2CHCH2CH2OH + CH3(CH2)8COOH + H+CH3(CH2)8COOCH2CH2CH(CH3)2 + H2O Isoamyl alcohol, decanoic (capric) acid, isoamyl decanoate (caprate)
[00101] The product obtained presented the following properties as shown in Table 2: Table 2______________________________________________________________ Properties of Oxismooth® CP INCI Name: Isoamyl Caprylate / Caprate CAS Number: 1365095-43-7 Appearance at 25°C: Clear liquid Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 36 / 66 / 59 Color Gardner 2 max. Odor Characteristic Water, % 0.75 max. Acidity value, mg KOH / g 1.0 max. Saponification value, mg KOH / g 240.0-258.0 Molecular weight, g / mol 227.13 Density at 20°C, g / cm3 0.859(1) Boiling point at 760 mmHg, °C 241-257 Flash point, °C 96.5-133 Refractive index, 25°C 1.4260 Pour point, °C <-20 Viscosity, 25°C, BKF, mPa.s 2.67 Solubility in water Partially soluble Renewable sources, % 100 Shelf life 24 months
[00102] INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. INCI is a standardized system for naming cosmetic ingredients used globally in the personal care and cosmetics industry. INCI names can be used on product labels and in formulation documentation to provide consistent and internationally recognized terminology for cosmetic ingredients. INCI names can be used to precisely identify the chemical components of a personal care formulation, such as Isoamyl Caprylate / Caprate for the described moisturizing agent. The use of INCI names can ensure clarity and uniformity in the description of the formulation composition, which can be crucial for regulatory compliance and effective communication within the industry.
[00103] CAS stands for Chemical Abstracts Service, a division of the American Chemical Society. CAS numbers are unique numerical identifiers assigned to chemical substances. The CAS number is provided for the moisturizing agent Isoamyl Caprylate / Caprate (CAS Number: 1365095-43-7). CAS numbers are widely used in scientific literature, databases, and regulatory documents to precisely identify compounds. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 37 / 66 / 59 chemicals, ensuring clarity and avoiding ambiguity when referring to specific substances. The inclusion of the CAS number can help to definitively identify the chemical composition of the moisturizing agent.
[00104] Gardner Color refers to a standardized color scale used in the chemical and cosmetic industries to measure and describe the color of liquids, particularly oils and fats. The scale ranges from 1 to 18, with 1 being the lightest (almost colorless) and 18 the darkest. In the context of the Oxismooth® CP product specification, a Gardner color of 2 at most indicates that the product is very light in color, almost colorless. This low color value is desirable for cosmetic ingredients as it allows for greater flexibility in formulation without significantly impacting the appearance of the final product. The Gardner color test is performed using a colorimeter or spectrophotometer and is an important quality control parameter to ensure consistency and purity in cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
[00105] A characteristic odor refers to a distinct smell associated with a specific substance or material. The odor is usually unique and can help identify or distinguish that substance from others.
[00106] The saponification value is a parameter used to characterize oils, fats, and waxes in cosmetic and personal care formulations. The saponification value represents the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide (KOH) required to saponify one gram of the sample. Saponification is the process by which triglycerides are hydrolyzed into fatty acids and glycerol in the presence of an alkali.
[00107] The term hydrolyzed refers to the chemical process of hydrolysis, which involves breaking chemical bonds through the addition of water. In the context of personal care formulations, hydrolyzed ingredients are generally derived from larger molecules that have been broken down into smaller, more easily absorbed components. This process can improve the performance and compatibility of certain products. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 38 / 66 / 59 ingredients with the skin. For example, hydrolyzed proteins are commonly used in skin and hair care products due to their ability to penetrate the hair shaft or skin barrier more effectively than their non-hydrolyzed counterparts. The hydrolysis process can also modify the properties of ingredients, potentially improving their solubility, stability, or functionality within a formulation. In the case of starches or other polysaccharides, hydrolysis can create smaller sugar molecules or oligosaccharides that may have different moisturizing or texturizing properties compared to the original ingredient.
[00108] For Oxismooth® CP, the saponification value range of 240.0 - 258.0 mg KOH / g indicates the amount of KOH required to completely saponify one gram of the ester. This value provides information about the average molecular weight and chain length of the fatty acids in the ester. Saponification values generally vary inversely with the chain length of fatty acids. A higher saponification value generally corresponds to shorter-chain fatty acids, while a lower value indicates longer-chain fatty acids.
[00109] The range specified for Oxismooth CP is consistent with esters derived from medium-chain fatty acids, such as caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acids. This saponification value range helps ensure product consistency and quality, as well as its suitability for use in personal care formulations where specific emollient and moisturizing properties are desired.
[00110] Molecular weight, g / mol, refers to the mass of one mole of a substance, expressed in grams. For isoamyl caprylate (caprate), the molecular weight is 227.13 g / mol. This value represents the sum of the atomic weights of all the atoms in the molecule. Molecular weight is a characteristic that can influence properties such as boiling point, melting point, and Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 39 / 66 / 59 solubility. In the context of personal care formulations, molecular weight can affect how the moisturizing agent interacts with the skin or hair, its ability to penetrate the stratum corneum, and its overall effectiveness in providing moisturizing benefits. A relatively low molecular weight, such as 227.13 g / mol, can contribute to the moisturizing agent's ability to penetrate the skin barrier and provide effective hydration.
[00111] Density at 20°C, g / cm3 refers to the mass per unit volume of the moisturizing agent at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius, measured in grams per cubic centimeter. This property can be used to characterize the physical properties of the moisturizing agent and ensure consistency in the formulation. The density value of 0.859 g / cm3 for Oxismooth® CP indicates that it is slightly less dense than water (which has a density of 1 g / cm3). This lower density may contribute to the lightweight feel of the moisturizing agent when applied to the skin. Density also affects how the moisturizing agent interacts with other ingredients in the personal care formulation, influencing factors such as mixing, stability, and texture of the final product.
[00112] The boiling point at 760 mmHg (standard atmospheric pressure) is a physical property that provides information about the volatility and thermal stability of the moisturizing agent. For Oxismooth® CP, the boiling point range of 241–257 °C indicates that the compound has a relatively high boiling point, which is typical of esters derived from medium-chain fatty acids and higher alcohols. The high boiling point contributes to the stability of the moisturizing agent in personal care formulations, ensuring that it does not evaporate easily during storage or application. The boiling point range, rather than a single value, reflects the fact that Oxismooth® CP is a mixture of isoamyl caprylate and isoamyl caprate, each with slightly different boiling points. This property is relevant for formulation considerations as it can Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pp. 40 / 66 / 59, affect the behavior of the moisturizing agent during processing and in the final product, particularly in terms of its ability to remain stable and effective in various personal care applications.
[00113] Flash point, °C, refers to the lowest temperature at which the vapors of a substance can ignite when exposed to an ignition source. For Oxismooth® CP, the flash point range is 96.5 to 133 °C. This relatively high flash point indicates that the moisturizing agent has low volatility and is not readily flammable at room temperature, which is an important safety consideration for personal care formulations. The flash point is a crucial parameter for handling, storage, and transportation of the ingredient, as it can inform appropriate safety precautions and regulatory compliance. In the context of personal care products, a higher flash point generally indicates greater stability and safety under normal conditions of use. The wide range provided (96.5 - 133 °C) is likely responsible for variations in the exact composition of Oxismooth® CP, which is a mixture of isoamyl caprylate and isoamyl caprate.
[00114] Refractive index, 25°C refers to the ratio of the speed of light in a vacuum to its speed in the moisturizing agent at a temperature of 25 degrees Celsius. For Oxismooth® CP, the refractive index is 1.4260. This property can be important in personal care formulations as it can affect the appearance and optical properties of the product. A refractive index close to that of the skin (approximately 1.44) can contribute to a more natural appearance when the formulation is applied. The refractive index can also influence the formulation's ability to scatter light, which can affect its visual effects on the skin, such as reducing the appearance of fine lines or imperfections. In the context of emollients, the refractive index can affect how the product interacts with light on the skin's surface, potentially contributing to a smoother or more radiant appearance. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 41 / 66 / 59
[00115] Pour point refers to the lowest temperature at which a liquid flows when cooled under specified conditions. For the Oxismooth® CP product, the pour point is listed as <-20 °C, indicating that the product can remain in a liquid state and flow at temperatures below -20 °C. The low pour point can be advantageous for personal care formulations as it ensures the product remains in a usable liquid state even at very low temperatures. This property can be used to help maintain the stability and performance of the formulation during storage and transport in cold climates. The low pour point can also contribute to the product's versatility, allowing it to be incorporated into a wide range of personal care formulations without concerns about solidification or changes in viscosity at low temperatures.
[00116] Viscosity is a measure of a fluid's resistance to flow. In the context of personal care formulations, viscosity is a property that affects the texture, spreadability, and overall performance of the product. For Oxismooth® CP, viscosity is measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer (BKF). The value of 2.67 mPa.s indicates that Oxismooth® CP has a relatively low viscosity, which contributes to its light, non-greasy feel and easy spreadability when used in personal care formulations. This low viscosity is advantageous for creating formulations with a pleasant texture and good absorption characteristics. The viscosity of an emollient can significantly impact the sensory properties of the final product, influencing factors such as ease of application to the skin, how quickly it is absorbed, and the overall feel of the skin after application.
[00117] The water solubility of the moisturizing agent is a property that can affect the behavior of the moisturizing agent in personal care formulations and its interactions with the skin. For Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pages 42 / 66 / 59 Oxismooth® CP is described as partially water-soluble. Partial solubility indicates that the moisturizing agent has both hydrophilic and lipophilic characteristics, which can be advantageous in personal care applications. Partial water solubility allows the moisturizing agent to interact with both the aqueous and oily phases of an emulsion, potentially increasing its ability to stabilize formulations and provide moisturizing benefits to the skin. Furthermore, partial water solubility can contribute to the moisturizing agent's ability to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface while still allowing some water retention, which can help maintain skin hydration. The balance between water solubility and oil solubility can be crucial for the effectiveness of the moisturizing agent in personal care formulations, as it allows for optimal interaction with the skin's lipid barrier and its natural moisture content. Example 2: Formulation of Anti-Aging Creams
[00118] Two anti-aging cream formulations were prepared, one using Oxismooth® CP (Sample DM415) and the other using a comparative emollient (Sample JL270). Both formulations contained 1% retinyl acetate as the active ingredient. The detailed composition of the formulations is provided in Table 3. Table 3 Phase Components Name INCI Supplier Sample DM415 Sample JL 270 With emollient Indorama With emollient Reference % of Active Ingredients % of Active Ingredients Deionized water Aqua (water) - qsp 100 qsp 100 Carbopol FD 2020 ACRYLATES / C10 - 30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER Volp 0.5 0.5 Disodium EDTA DISODIUM EDTA Poly commercial 0.1 0.1 Alkonat 1618 C30 p Cetearyl alcohol Indorama 7 7 Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pp. 43 / 66 / 59 B Alkonat CE 200 f Ceteareth-20 Indorama 7 7 Oxismooth CP Isoamyl caprylate / caprate Indorama 5 0 Caprylic / capric triglyceride Engineering 0 5 BHT BHT Synth 0.1 0.1 C Retinyl acetate Retinyl acetate ELEVE 1 1 Phenoxyethanol (glycol ephl) Phenoxyethanol Indorama 1 1 D Sodium hydroxide Sodium hydroxide Neon qsp pH 6.3 + / - 0.2 qsp pH 6.3 + / - 0.2 Citric acid CITRIC ACID Synth qsp pH 6.3 + / - 0.2 qsp pH 6.3 + / - 0.2
[00119] Aqua (water) refers to purified water used as a solvent and base ingredient in personal care formulations. It serves as the primary vehicle for dissolving and dispersing other ingredients in the formulation. Water is essential for maintaining the proper viscosity, texture, and stability of the product. In the context of this personal care formulation, water likely constitutes the largest part of the composition, providing a medium for moisturizing agents and other components to interact and deliver their benefits to the skin or hair. The use of purified water ensures that the formulation is free of contaminants and impurities that could affect its safety, efficacy, or stability.
[00120] ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER is a synthetic polymer used as a thickening agent, emulsion stabilizer, and rheology modifier in personal care formulations. It is formed by crosslinking acrylate copolymer with a long-chain alkyl acrylate, typically containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. This crosslinking creates a three-dimensional network structure that gives the polymer its unique properties. In the context of the personal care formulation described, ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER performs several important functions: (1) Thickening — Increases the viscosity of the formulation, improving its texture and spreadability; (2) Stabilization of Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 44 / 66 / 59 emulsion — The polymer helps maintain the stability of the oil-in-water emulsion, preventing the separation of the oily and aqueous phases; (3) Rheology modification — Provides the formulation with specific flow characteristics, which can affect the feel of the product when applied to the skin and how it spreads; and (4) Suspension — Can help keep other ingredients, such as oil particles or droplets, uniformly dispersed throughout the formulation. The inclusion of this ingredient in the formulation at 0.5% by weight suggests that it plays a crucial role in achieving the desired texture and stability of the anti-aging cream. Its ability to form a gel network in aqueous systems makes it particularly useful in creating formulations that have a smooth, non-greasy feel while providing effective distribution of active ingredients such as retinyl acetate.
[00121] Disodium EDTA, also known as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, is a chelating agent commonly used in personal care formulations. It functions as a preservative, enhancer, and stabilizer, binding to metal ions that could catalyze oxidation reactions or promote microbial growth. In the context of this personal care formulation, disodium EDTA helps maintain the stability and effectiveness of other ingredients, particularly antioxidants and preservatives. It may also contribute to the overall texture and feel of the product by preventing the formation of precipitates or discoloration that can result from interactions between metal ions. The inclusion of 0.1% by weight disodium EDTA suggests that it plays a supporting role in maintaining the quality and shelf life of the anti-aging cream formulation.
[00122] Cetostearyl alcohol is a mixture of fatty alcohols, composed primarily of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is commonly used in personal care formulations as an emollient, emulsifier and Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 45 / 66 / 59 thickening agent. In the context of this personal care formulation, cetostearyl alcohol likely plays multiple roles: 1. Emollient: Helps soften and smooth the skin, providing a pleasant feel to the formulation.
[00123] 2. Emulsifier: Helps stabilize the oil-in-water emulsion of the cream, helping to prevent the separation of the oily and aqueous phases.
[00124] 3. Thickener: Contributes to the viscosity and texture of the formulation, giving it a desirable consistency.
[00125] 4. Conditioning agent: In hair care products, it can act as a conditioning agent, helping to improve the feel and manageability of the hair.
[00126] The inclusion of 7% by weight cetostearyl alcohol in samples DM415 and JL270 suggests that it plays a significant role in the texture, stability, and skin feel of the formulation. Its presence may contribute to the overall moisturizing effect of the personal care formulation and may also influence the permeation of other ingredients, such as the moisturizing agent and retinol acetate, through the skin.
[00127] Ceteareth-20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier commonly used in personal care formulations. It is derived from cetostearyl alcohol and ethylene oxide. In the context of this personal care formulation, ceteareth-20 plays several important roles: 1. Emulsification: Helps stabilize the oil-in-water emulsion by reducing the surface tension between the oil and water phases, preventing separation of the formulation.
[00128] 2. Solubilization: Ceteareth-20 can help solubilize other ingredients, improving the overall stability and homogeneity of the formulation.
[00129] 3. Texture improvement: Contributes to the smooth and creamy texture of the formulation, improving its spreadability and feel on the skin. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pages 46 / 66 / 59
[00130] 4. Hydration: Although primarily an emulsifier, ceteareth-20 may also provide some moisturizing benefits to the skin.
[00131] The inclusion of ceteareth-20 at 7% by weight in Sample DM415 and Sample JL270 suggests that it plays a significant role in the stability, texture, and overall performance of the formulation. Its presence may also influence the permeation of other ingredients, such as the moisturizing agent and retinol acetate, through the skin, altering the interaction of the formulation with the stratum corneum.
[00132] Isoamyl caprate refers to the moisturizing agent used in the personal care formulation described in this patent application. It is an ester compound formed by the reaction of isoamyl alcohol with a mixture of caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) fatty acids. This compound has the general formula R-COO—CH2CH2CH(CH3)2, where R is a linear alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n—CH3, and en is 6 or 8.
[00133] The isoamyl portion (-CH2CH2CH(CH3)2) is derived from isoamyl alcohol, which is obtained from sugarcane through a sustainable process. The caprylate / caprate portion (R-COO-) comes from fatty acids, typically from coconut or palm kernel oil. This combination results in a 100% renewable, plant-derived emollient.
[00134] Isoamyl caprylate / caprate, also known by the trade name Oxismooth® CP, acts as the main moisturizing agent in the formulation. It offers several benefits, including improved spreadability, rapid absorption, and a pleasant, non-greasy feel on the skin. The compound's unique structure allows it to enhance the permeation of active ingredients, such as retinol acetate, through the skin, potentially improving the effectiveness of anti-aging formulations.
[00135] Caprylic / capric triglyceride is a mixed ester derived from caprylic acid, capric acid, and glycerin. It is commonly used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent in skincare formulations. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 47 / 66 / 59 personal care. This ingredient is known for its light, non-greasy texture and its ability to spread easily on the skin. In the context of this personal care formulation, caprylic / capric triglyceride serves as a reference emollient against which the performance of Oxismooth CP (isoamyl caprylate / caprate) is compared. The inclusion of caprylic / capric triglyceride at 5% by weight in Sample JL270 allows a direct comparison with Oxismooth CP in Sample DM415, which is also present at 5% by weight. This comparison is crucial to assess the relative efficacy of Oxismooth CP as a novel and sustainable emollient in increasing the skin permeation of active ingredients such as retinyl acetate.
[00136] BHT, or butylated hydroxytoluene, is a synthetic antioxidant commonly used in personal care formulations to prevent oxidation and extend the shelf life of products. In the context of this personal care formulation, BHT likely serves as a preservative and stabilizer, helping to maintain the effectiveness of other ingredients, particularly those susceptible to oxidation, such as retinyl acetate. The inclusion of BHT at 0.1% by weight in Sample DM415 and Sample JL270 suggests that it plays a crucial role in maintaining the stability and quality of the anti-aging cream formulation over time. By preventing oxidation, BHT helps ensure that the active ingredients remain effective throughout the product's shelf life.
[00137] Retinol acetate is a form of vitamin A commonly used in skincare formulations, particularly in anti-aging products. It is an ester of retinol (vitamin A) and acetic acid. In the context of this personal care formulation, retinol acetate serves as the active ingredient, present at a concentration of 1% in the formulations of Sample DM415 and Sample JL270. Retinol acetate is known for its ability to promote skin cell renewal, stimulate collagen production, and improve skin texture and tone. It is often preferred Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pp. 48 / 66 / 59 in cosmetic formulations due to its stability and lower potential for skin irritation compared to other retinoids. The inclusion of retinyl acetate in these formulations allows for the evaluation of how different emollients (Oxismooth CP and the reference emollient) affect the permeation and efficacy of this active ingredient through reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) in in vitro skin permeation studies.
[00138] Phenoxyethanol is a preservative commonly used in personal care formulations to prevent microbial growth and extend the shelf life of products. In the context of this personal care formulation, phenoxyethanol likely acts as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent, helping to protect the formulation against bacterial and fungal contamination. It is effective against a wide range of microorganisms and is generally preferred in cosmetic formulations due to its mild nature and low potential for skin irritation compared to some other preservatives. The inclusion of 1% by weight phenoxyethanol in Sample DM415 and Sample JL270 suggests that it plays a crucial role in maintaining the stability and safety of the anti-aging cream formulation over time.Its presence helps ensure that the active ingredients, including retinol acetate, remain effective and that the product remains safe for use throughout its expected shelf life.
[00139] Sodium hydroxide, also known as caustic soda or lye, is a strong alkaline compound with the chemical formula NaOH. In the context of this personal care formulation, sodium hydroxide likely serves as a pH adjuster. It is used to increase the pH of the formulation, making it more alkaline. This pH adjustment is crucial for maintaining the stability and effectiveness of other ingredients in the formulation, particularly active ingredients such as retinyl acetate. The proper pH can also affect the overall performance of the product on the skin, including its moisturizing capacity and potential for irritation. The hydroxide Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pp. 49 / 66 / 59. Sodium hydroxide is normally used in very small quantities in personal care products, as indicated by the qsp notation (quantum satis pro, or as much as necessary) in the formulation table. The precise quantity is adjusted to achieve the desired pH of 6.3 ± 0.2, which is slightly acidic to neutral and generally compatible with skin pH. It is important to note that although sodium hydroxide is a strong base, its concentration in the final formulation is carefully controlled to ensure the safety and efficacy of the product.
[00140] Citric acid is an organic acid commonly used in personal care formulations as a pH adjuster and preservative enhancer. In the context of this personal care formulation, citric acid likely serves to adjust the product's pH to the desired level of 6.3 ± 0.2. This slightly acidic pH is generally compatible with the skin's natural pH and helps maintain the stability and efficacy of other ingredients in the formulation, particularly active ingredients such as retinol acetate. Citric acid can also act as a gentle exfoliant, helping to improve skin texture and tone. Additionally, it can function as a chelating agent, binding to metal ions that could destabilize the formulation or reduce its shelf life. The use of citric acid in combination with sodium hydroxide allows for precise pH adjustment, ensuring the final product has the ideal pH for skin compatibility and ingredient stability.The notation qsp (quantum satis pro, or as much as necessary) in the formulation table indicates that the amount of citric acid used is adjusted as needed to achieve the target pH.
[00141] The formulations were prepared by heating and mixing the ingredients of phases A and B separately and then combining them under stirring to form an oil-in-water emulsion. The emulsion was then cooled and the ingredients of phases C and D were added. The final formulation was packaged in an inert atmosphere in collapsible aluminum tubes and Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 50 / 66 / 59 stored below 20°C. The specifications for the preparation of formulations JL270 and DM415 are shown in Table 4. Table 4______________________________________________________________ Sequence Description 1 • Mix and heat the ingredients of Phase A to 75-80°C. 2 • Heat the ingredients of Phase B to 75-80°C. • While stirring (1000 rpm), pour Phase B into Phase A. • Homogenize the emulsion. • Cool to 40°C, while stirring. 3 • Add Phase C. • Homogenize and cool the emulsion to room temperature, stirring constantly. 4 • Adjust the pH with ingredients from Phase D, if necessary. 5 • The final formulation should be packaged in an inert atmosphere in collapsible aluminum tubes. • Keep samples below 20°C during storage and transport. Example 3: In vitro skin permeation studies
[00142] A skin permeation methodology was developed to evaluate the permeation of the cream and the permeation of retinyl acetate. The methodology developed considered the recommendations of OECD Guideline No. 4286.
[00143] The tests were conducted in vitro using reconstructed human skin (RHE) produced by ELEVE Science. The produced RHE has a quality specification that guarantees the quality and reproducibility of the produced RHE regarding cell viability, number of cell layers, and integrity of the epidermal barrier function. Figure 5A shows a schematic model of skin growth for human skin reconstruction. Figure 5B shows the microscopic image of the RHE produced by ELEVE Science. The image was obtained using HE (Hematoxylin-Eosin) staining, a technique used in histology for visualizing tissues under a microscope.
[00144] Figure 5A illustrates a four-stage process of cell growth and proliferation in a laboratory culture plate. This process is used to create the reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) that is used in the skin permeation studies described in this description. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 51 / 66 / 59 In the first stage, a small number of cells are seeded at the bottom of the dish, appearing as a thin layer. In the second stage, the cells divide and grow, with the layer becoming thicker and densely populated. In the third stage, the cells continue to proliferate, expanding upwards and filling more of the dish's volume. In the final stage, the cells completely populate the dish, forming a thick, multi-layered structure that reaches near the top of the container. Throughout the process, the culture medium, represented by the pink color, decreases in volume as it is consumed by the growing cell population. The container remains constant in size at all stages, providing a stable environment for cell growth.
[00145] In some respects, the RHE used in skin permeation studies can be produced using a similar process of cell growth and proliferation. RHE can be grown in a laboratory culture plate or other suitable container, with the cells seeded at the bottom of the plate and allowed to divide and grow to form a multilayered structure. The culture medium can be replenished periodically to provide the nutrients necessary for cell growth. The resulting RHE can closely mimic the structure and properties of the natural human epidermis, making it a suitable model for evaluating the skin permeation of personal care formulations.
[00146] In some cases, RHE can be produced using cells derived from human skin tissue. The cells can be obtained, for example, from skin biopsies or other sources of human skin tissue. In some embodiments, the cells used to produce RHE may be keratinocytes, the main cell type found in the epidermis. Other skin cell types, such as melanocytes or Langerhans cells, may also be included in RHE to more closely mimic the composition of the natural human epidermis. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pages 52 / 66 / 59
[00147] In some embodiments, RHE can be produced using a different process or technique. For example, RHE can be produced using a 3D bioprinting technique, in which layers of cells are printed onto a substrate to form a multilayered structure. Alternatively, RHE can be produced using a tissue engineering technique, in which cells are seeded onto a biodegradable structure and allowed to proliferate and form a multilayered structure. The specific process or technique used to produce RHE may depend on several factors, such as the desired properties of the RHE, the resources available, and the specific requirements of skin permeation studies.
[00148] Referring to Figure 5B, the figure shows a microscopic cross-section of ELEVE Science RHE, which resembles human skin tissue. The image is stained in shades of pink and purple, typical of histological preparations. The top layer shows a thin, stratified structure that likely represents the epidermis, with several distinct cell layers visible. Below this is a thicker layer with a more fibrous appearance, which is likely the dermis. This dermal layer contains numerous elongated structures parallel to the skin surface, which may represent collagen fibers. In the background of the image is a lighter-colored layer with a more uniform appearance, which may represent subcutaneous tissue. This microscopic view of the skin structure illustrates the layers through which topical skincare formulations, such as those described in the patent, must penetrate to deliver active ingredients and provide moisturizing effects.
[00149] Figures 6A and 6B show the matrix used in the experiments. Each matrix has twelve different channels, each used for a single in vitro test. Each RHE consists of a receiving channel where the sample is applied, an RHE, and a receiving solution to receive the emollient and / or active ingredient permeated through the RHE. A solution Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, p. 53 / 66 / 59. The receptor refers to the solution on the side of the permeation apparatus (e.g., a Franz diffusion cell) that collects the permeated substance (such as an emollient or active ingredient) as it passes through a membrane or skin model. The receptor solution typically mimics physiological conditions to simulate how the substance would behave in the body. Figure 6A shows a 12 RHE array for in vitro permeation testing, and Figure 6B shows a detail of a single cell used for each experiment (ELEVE Science, n.d.).
[00150] Referring to Figure 6A, the figure illustrates a multi-well plate or tray used in laboratory settings to conduct experiments or tests on small volumes of liquid samples. In the context of the present description, this multi-well plate is used to conduct in vitro skin permeation studies to evaluate personal care formulations containing the moisturizing agent or mixture of moisturizing agents. The wells of the multi-well plate are filled with samples of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), and the personal care formulations are applied to these samples. The different shades of pink in the wells may indicate different concentrations or compositions of the personal care formulations being tested. For example, a darker shade of pink may represent a higher concentration of the moisturizing agent or a different ratio of the first moisturizing agent to the second moisturizing agent.In some cases, the various shades of pink may also indicate the extent of permeation of the first moisturizing agent and the second moisturizing agent in the RHE samples over time.
[00151] In some respects, the multi-well plate may include more or fewer wells than shown in Figure 6A, depending on the number of samples or conditions tested. For example, a larger multi-well plate with more wells may be used to test a wider range of concentrations or compositions of the care formulations. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pp. 54 / 66 / 59 personal, or to test the formulations under different conditions (e.g., different temperatures or pH levels). On the other hand, a smaller multi-well plate can be used for preliminary screening tests or to test a smaller number of samples or conditions.
[00152] In some embodiments, the multi-well plate may be made of a material compatible with personal care formulations and RH samples, and which does not interfere with skin permeation studies. Suitable materials for the multi-well plate may include, for example, plastic, glass, or other non-reactive materials. The multi-well plate may also be transparent or semi-transparent to allow visual inspection of the wells and the samples contained therein.
[00153] In some cases, the multi-well plate can be used in conjunction with other laboratory equipment or devices to facilitate skin permeation studies. For example, the multi-well plate can be placed in an incubator to maintain a controlled temperature and humidity environment for the studies. The multi-well plate can also be used with a microscope or other imaging device to visually observe and record the permeation of the moisturizing agent and additional moisturizing agent in the RHE samples.
[00154] Referring to Figure 6B, the figure illustrates a multi-well plate configuration used in the in vitro skin permeation experiments described in this description. Each well of the multi-well plate contains a sample of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), which serves as a model for human skin in permeation studies. Personal care formulations containing the moisturizing agent and at least one additional moisturizing agent are applied to these RHE samples. The multi-well plate configuration allows multiple samples to be tested simultaneously under the same conditions, facilitating the comparison of different formulations or different concentrations of the same formulation. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pages 55 / 66 / 59
[00155] The experimental procedure for in vitro skin permeation was conducted in two different stages, as shown in Figures 7A and 7B. Figure 7A shows stage 1 for evaluating the Oxiteno emollient and the Reference emollient without the active ingredient. Figure 7B shows stage 2 for evaluating the Oxiteno emollient and the Reference emollient with the anti-aging formulation containing retinyl acetate compared to a retinyl acetate solution. The dermal permeation study in RHE was performed under optimized conditions according to OECD10, using an RHE model with a diffusion area of 1.13 cm2 and a volume of 4.00 mL in the receptor compartment.
[00156] Figure 7A illustrates an experimental design system for evaluating emollients. The experiments conducted in stage 1 were performed without the active ingredient to detect the absorption of the emollient in the RHE. The in vitro skin permeation test was performed in the experiments of the first stage using 10 cells available in the RHE matrix, divided as follows: cells evaluating the Oxismooth CP emollient, 4 cells evaluating the Reference emollient, and 2 cells used as a blank (placebo).
[00157] This arrangement allows for a comparative analysis between the Oxiteno emollient, a reference emollient, and a placebo control. The system was designed to facilitate the evaluation of different emollients, providing a structured approach for sample distribution and testing. The use of multiple samples for each type of emollient increases the statistical reliability of the experimental results. The inclusion of a placebo group with fewer samples serves as a control for the experiment.
[00158] In some respects, the experimental design system can be used to evaluate the skin permeation properties of different emollients. For example, the system can be used to compare the skin permeation of the Oxiteno moisturizing agent with that of an emollient. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 56 / 66 / 59 reference. The system can also be used to evaluate the cutaneous permeation of a placebo, which can serve as a control for experiments.
[00159] In some cases, the experimental design system may include more or fewer branches than those shown in Figure 7A, depending on the number of emollients or conditions being tested. For example, the system may include additional branches to test different concentrations or compositions of the moisturizing agent, or to test the emollient under different conditions (e.g., different temperatures or pH levels).
[00160] In some embodiments, the experimental design system can be used in conjunction with other laboratory equipment or devices to facilitate skin permeation studies. For example, the system can be used with a multi-well plate or other suitable container to hold samples of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). The system can also be used with a microscope or other imaging device to visually observe and record the permeation of the emollient in the RHE samples.
[00161] In some respects, the experimental design system can be used to evaluate the synergistic moisturizing effect of the moisturizing agent and at least one additional moisturizing agent. For example, the system can be used to compare the skin permeation of a personal care formulation containing the (first) moisturizing agent and the (second) additional moisturizing agent with that of a formulation containing only the (first) moisturizing agent or only the (second) additional moisturizing agent. This could potentially provide valuable information on the synergistic moisturizing effect of the two agents when combined in an effective synergistic moisturizing ratio.
[00162] Figure 7B illustrates the experimental design for Stage 2 of a study comparing different formulations containing acetate of Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 57 / 66 / 59 retinyl. The experiments conducted in stage 2 were performed with samples prepared with the addition of 1% retinyl acetate to evaluate the permeation of retinyl acetate in RHE compared to the reference product.
[00163] In the stage 2 experiments, a new RHE matrix was used and all 12 available cells were used and were divided as follows: 4 cells to evaluate the DM415 sample (anti-aging cream formulated using Oxismooth CP and 1% retinyl acetate), 4 cells to evaluate the JL 270 sample (anti-aging cream formulated using Reference and 1% retinyl acetate), 2 cells to evaluate the retinyl acetate solution (1% active) and 2 cells used as blank cells (placebo).
[00164] In some respects, the experimental design may include more or fewer samples for each sample type, depending on the specific requirements of the skin permeation studies. For example, a larger number of samples may be used to increase the statistical power of the study, while a smaller number of samples may be used for preliminary screening tests or to test a smaller number of conditions.
[00165] In some cases, the experimental design may include additional sample types not shown in Figure 7B. For example, the design may include samples of other anti-aging creams formulated with different emollients or different concentrations of retinyl acetate. The design may also include samples of other types of personal care formulations, such as lotions, serums, or gels, that contain the first moisturizing agent and the second moisturizing agent.
[00166] In some embodiments, the experimental design may include additional steps or procedures not shown in Figure 7B. For example, the design may include steps to prepare the reconstructed human epidermis (HHE) samples, steps to apply the care formulations. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pp. 58 / 66 / 59 personal samples of EHH and steps to measure the permeation of the first moisturizing agent and the second moisturizing agent into and through the EHH samples. The specific steps and procedures included in the experimental design may depend on several factors, such as the desired properties of the personal care formulation, the specific requirements of the skin permeation studies, and the resources and equipment available.
[00167] All individual samples evaluated followed the procedure below: a) Application of a finite dose (5 mg / cm2) of each sample onto the RHE. b) Six hours of contact between the sample and the RH. c) Receiving solution collected and evaluated every hour. d) After six hours, the surface of the RHE was washed ten times with 10 mL of DPBS (phosphate-buffered saline solution) to ensure complete removal of the sample that did not permeate. The sample that was removed because it did not permeate was not quantified. e) Final quantification: a. The sample permeated in the RHE was bioanalyzed using GC / MS and reported in g / cm2. b. The sample permeated through the RHE and that reached the receiving solution was bioanalyzed using GC / MS and reported in g / cm2.
[00168] The studies were conducted in two stages. In the first stage, the permeation of the emollients was evaluated individually (Oxismooth® CP and the reference emollient). In the second stage, the permeation of the anti-aging cream formulations containing retinyl acetate was evaluated.
[00169] The results of the first stage indicated that the reference emollient permeated the RHE to a greater extent (approximately 190 μg / cm2) compared to Oxismooth® CP (approximately 85 μg / cm2). Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 59 / 66 / 59
[00170] Figure 8 illustrates a bar graph comparing the total emollient permeate in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) for the Reference product (sum of capric and caprylic acid) and Oxismooth® CP (isoamyl caprate and caprylate). The y-axis represents the total emollient permeate in μg / cm2, while the x-axis shows the two products being compared. The Reference product, represented by an orange bar, shows a higher level of emollient permeate at approximately 190 μg / cm2. In contrast, Oxismooth® CP, represented by a gray bar, shows a lower level of emollient permeate at approximately 85 μg / cm2. Both bars have error bars, with the Reference product showing a larger margin of error. This graph visually demonstrates the difference in emollient permeate between the two products when applied to reconstructed human epidermis.
[00171] Figure 8 shows the total amount of emollients permeated in the RHE. Although there was a large difference in terms of emollient permeation, in terms of retinyl acetate permeation, this does not guarantee the permeation of the active ingredient (retinyl acetate), since the permeation of the active ingredient (retinyl acetate) is the result of the interaction between the emollient, the active ingredient, and the skin.
[00172] Permeation performance can be affected by the performance of different emollients, mainly due to differences in physical state, molecular weight, lipophilicity, ionization, and interaction with the skin membrane. Considering the main differences between emollients, as shown in Table 4, the higher reference permeation can be attributed to a combination of their higher lipophilicity and higher viscosity.
[00173] In some respects, the difference in emollient permeation between the Reference product and Oxismooth® CP can be attributed to the different chemical structures and properties of the emollients. For example, the Reference emollient may have a higher molecular weight or a different degree of Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 60 / 66 / 59 lipophilicity compared to Oxismooth® CP, which may affect its ability to penetrate the stratum corneum and be retained in the RHE. The Reference emollient may also have a different solubility profile in the cosmetically acceptable vehicle used in the personal care formulation, which may affect its release from the formulation and its subsequent permeation into the RHE. The properties of the Oxismooth® CP and Reference emollients are shown in Table 5. Table 5 Oxismooth® CP Property Reference Chemical Composition Isoamyl Caprylate / Caprate Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Molecular Weight 227 372 Viscosity 2.67 32.3 Lop P Partially soluble in water Log P>8 insoluble in water
[00174] In some cases, the lower level of emollient permeation observed for Oxismooth® CP may be advantageous for certain applications. For example, a lower level of emollient permeation may result in a slower release of the emollient from the personal care formulation, providing a sustained moisturizing effect over a longer period of time. A lower level of emollient permeation may also reduce the potential for skin irritation or sensitivity reactions that can sometimes occur with high concentrations of emollients.
[00175] In some embodiments, the personal care formulation may be formulated to optimize the permeation of the (first) moisturizing agent and at least one additional moisturizing agent (second, third, etc.) through the stratum corneum and into the RH. For example, the formulation may include ingredients that enhance intercellular penetration, such as penetration enhancers or solvents. Alternatively, the formulation may be designed to increase follicular penetration, for example, by including ingredients that increase the solubility of the agents in sebum, the oily substance present in hair follicles. In some cases, the formulation may be designed to increase transcellular penetration, by Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 61 / 66 / 59 example, including ingredients that increase the permeability of skin cell membranes.
[00176] In the second stage, the cumulative amount of retinyl acetate in the receptor solution over time was measured for the two formulations and a control sample of the retinyl acetate solution. The results showed that the formulation containing Oxismooth® CP (Sample DM415) demonstrated a greater cumulative amount of retinyl acetate in the receptor solution over time compared to the reference formulation (Sample JL270) and the control sample. This suggests that Oxismooth CP increases the permeation of retinol acetate through the skin, which may lead to greater efficacy of the anti-aging cream.
[00177] Figure 9 illustrates a graph showing the cumulative amount of retinyl acetate in a receptor solution over time. The graph compares three different samples: a control (SL240073), a reference (JL270), and a sample labeled DM415 (IR0534) - Oxiteno. Each sample is represented by a data point of different color and shape (blue circles, orange squares, and gray triangles, respectively). The graph shows measurements taken at 1, 2, 3, and 6-hour intervals. Error bars are included for each data point.
[00178] Although no emollient permeation was detected in the receptor solution in the first-stage experiments, when the active retinyl acetate was added to the anti-aging formulation, both emollients were able to transport the active ingredient to the RHE and also reach the receptor solution.
[00179] Figure 9 shows the accumulated amount of retinyl acetate in the receptor solution after six hours of anti-aging cream formulation in contact with RHE. The Oxismooth® CP sample promoted better permeation of retinyl acetate than the Reference sample; both samples allowed permeation of retinyl acetate. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pp. 62 / 66 / 59 through the RHE to the receptor solution. Figure 9 shows the retinyl acetate accumulated in the RHE at the end of the six-hour experiment and shows the absorption of retinyl acetate in the RHE by the Oxismooth® CP sample, suggesting the importance of the presence of the emollient in the active permeation performance of the active ingredient retinyl acetate, since the control sample, composed of a retinyl acetate solution, showed low permeation in the RHE. See also the control results in Figure 10. It appears that less retinyl acetate from the reference and control was accumulated in the RHE in about 6 hours than in about 3 hours. After 6 hours, the amount of retinyl acetate from the Oxiteno emollient accumulated in the RHE remained at least stable, if not more so.
[00180] In some respects, the graph provides a visual representation of the skin permeation capabilities of the personal care formulation containing the (first) moisturizing agent and at least one additional moisturizing agent (second, third, etc.). The graph shows that sample DM415, which contains the moisturizing agent and retinyl acetate, demonstrates a greater cumulative amount of retinyl acetate in the receptor solution over time compared to the reference and control samples. This suggests that the moisturizing agent may increase the permeation of retinyl acetate into the skin, which may lead to improved efficacy of the personal care formulation.
[00181] Figure 10 illustrates a bar graph comparing the cumulative amount of retinyl acetate in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) for three different samples: a control sample (SL240073), a reference sample (JL270 - IR0533), and a sample labeled DM415 (IR0534) - Oxiteno. The y-axis represents the accumulated retinyl acetate in μg / cm2, while the x-axis shows the three different samples. The control sample, represented by a blue bar, shows a very low concentration of retinyl acetate, indicating minimal permeation of acetate. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 63 / 66 / 59 retinyl acetate in the RHE. The reference sample, represented by an orange bar, shows a higher concentration of retinyl acetate, indicating a greater degree of permeation into the RHE. The Oxiteno sample, represented by a gray bar, shows a moderate concentration of retinyl acetate, indicating a level of permeation into the RHE that is between that of the control and reference samples. Error bars are included for each sample, indicating the range of variability in the measurements.
[00182] In some respects, the bar graph in Figure 10 provides a visual representation of the skin permeation capabilities of the personal care formulation containing the moisturizing agent or mixture of moisturizing agents. The graph shows that sample DM415, which contains the moisturizing agent and retinyl acetate, demonstrates a greater accumulated amount of retinyl acetate in the RHE compared to the reference and control samples. This suggests that the moisturizing agent may increase the permeation of retinyl acetate into the skin, which may lead to improved efficacy of the personal care formulation.
[00183] Extensive work has provided clear evidence of a positive synergy between emollients and the active permeation of retinyl acetate into the RHE, resulting in better absorption of the active ingredient into the skin compared to the application of retinyl acetate in solution (control). Consequently, this suggests an anti-aging formulation with better cost-effectiveness and performance, preventing the active ingredient (retinyl acetate) from being removed after application. Furthermore, Oxismooth® CP demonstrated better performance than the reference product when used to transport the active retinyl acetate through the RHE.
[00184] The following clauses illustrate the exemplary subject described herein.
[00185] CLAUSE 1. A personal care formulation comprising: a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 64 / 66 / 59 moisturizing agent, the first moisturizing agent having a formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n—CH3 and n 6; and the second moisturizing agent having a formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n 8; the mixture of the first moisturizing agent and the second moisturizing agent exhibits greater permeation in a reconstructed human epidermis than an emollient comprising caprylic triglyceride and capric triglyceride.
[00186] CLAUSE 2. The personal care formulation of CLAUSE 1, further comprising retinyl acetate, the retinyl acetate exhibiting greater permeation in a reconstructed human epidermis than a personal care formulation comprising retinyl acetate and an emollient comprising caprylic triglyceride and capric triglyceride.
[00187] CLAUSE 3. The personal care formulation of CLAUSES 1 or 2, further comprising retinyl acetate, the retinyl acetate exhibiting continuous or increased permeation in a reconstructed human epidermis after approximately 6 hours of exposure to the reconstructed human epidermis.
[00188] Although the description has been given in connection with what is currently considered to be the most practical and preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the description is not to be limited to the embodiments described, but rather is intended to cover various equivalent modifications and arrangements included in the spirit and scope of the appended claims, the scope of which should be given the broadest interpretation so as to encompass all such equivalent modifications and structures, as permitted by law. Furthermore, it should be understood that while the use of the word preferable, preferably, or preferred in the above description indicates that the feature thus described may be more desirable, it may not be necessary, and any embodiment that does not possess it may be contemplated. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, pp. 65 / 66 / 59, as being within the scope of the description, this scope being defined by the following claims. Upon reading the claims, it is intended that when words such as “a”, “an”, “at least one”, and “at least a portion” are used, there is no intention to limit the claim to only one item, unless specifically stated otherwise in the claim. Furthermore, when the language “at least a part” and / or “a portion” is used, the item may include a part and / or the entire item, unless specifically indicated otherwise. Petition 870260057165, dated 12 / 06 / 2026, page 66 / 66
Claims
1 / 4 CLAIMS 1. A personal care formulation, characterized in that it comprises: a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent; the first moisturizing agent having the formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is 6; the second moisturizing agent having the formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3, wherein n is 8; and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
2. Personal care formulation according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises retinyl acetate.
3. Personal care formulation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the first moisturizing agent comprises isoamyl caprylate.
4. A personal care formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the second moisturizing agent comprises isoamyl caprate.
5. Personal care formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the first moisturizing agent is about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation.
6. Personal care formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the second moisturizing agent is about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation. Petition 870250095273, dated 10 / 17 / 2025, page 65 / 82 2 / 4 7. A personal care formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of thickeners, emulsifiers, emollients, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters and combinations thereof.
8. A method for moisturizing the skin or hair, characterized in that it comprises: applying to the skin or hair an effective amount of a personal care formulation comprising a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent; the first moisturizing agent having the formula R-COO-C5Hn, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is 6; the second moisturizing agent having the formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3, wherein n is 8; and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
9. A personal care formulation as defined in claim 8, characterized in that it further comprises retinyl acetate.
10. A personal care formulation as defined in claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the first moisturizing agent comprises isoamyl caprylate.
11. A personal care formulation as defined in any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the second moisturizing agent comprises isoamyl caprate.
12. Personal care formulation as defined in any of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the first moisturizing agent is about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation.
13. Personal care formulation as defined in any one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the second moisturizing agent is about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation.
14. A personal care formulation as defined in any one of claims 8 to 13, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of thickeners, emulsifiers, emollients, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters and combinations thereof.
15. Process for preparing a personal care formulation, characterized in that it comprises: preparing a mixture of a first moisturizing agent and a second moisturizing agent by an esterification reaction of an alcohol derived from sugar cane and a fatty acid derived from a vegetable source, the first moisturizing agent having a formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3 and n is 6; the second moisturizing agent has a formula R-COO-C5H11, wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl group of formula -(CH2)n-CH3, wherein n is 8; and combining the mixture of the first moisturizing agent and the second moisturizing agent with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
16. A personal care formulation as defined in claim 15, characterized in that it further comprises retinyl acetate.
17. A personal care formulation as defined in claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the first moisturizing agent comprises isoamyl caprylate.
18. Personal care formulation as defined in Petition 870250095273, dated 10 / 17 / 2025, page 67 / 82 4 / 4 any of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the second moisturizing agent comprises isoamyl caprate.
19. A personal care formulation as defined in any one of claims 15 to 18, characterized in that the first moisturizing agent is about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation, and the second moisturizing agent is about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the personal care formulation.
20. Personal care formulation as defined in any of claims 15 to 19, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of thickeners, emulsifiers, emollients, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, pH adjusters and combinations thereof. Petition 870250095273, dated 10 / 17 / 2025, pp. 68 / 82