FILMOGENIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A COMBINATION OF TWO MODIFIED STARCHES

Abstract

FILM-FORMING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A COMBINATION OF TWO MODIFIED STARCHES The present invention relates to a film-forming composition comprising a combination of at least two modified starches and at least one plasticizing agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a film-forming composition according to the invention. The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a film-forming composition according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it for the care and / or protection of keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: FILM-FORMING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A COMBINATION OF TWO MODIFIED STARCHES FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a film-forming composition comprising an association of at least two modified starches, and at least one plasticizing agent.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a film-forming composition according to the invention.

[0003] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a film-forming composition according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it for the care and / or protection of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0004] Film-forming agents are known in cosmetics for their ability to form a covering film on keratinous materials.

[0005] When applied to keratinous materials, film-forming agents allow, for example, the hydration or protection of keratinous materials, by providing a barrier effect.

[0006] We know, for example, of peelable or "peel-off" masks which are aqueous film-forming compositions applied to the skin to form, after a given drying time, a solidified film which is removed by gently pulling on the film which has formed.

[0007] The occlusive effect provided by the film-forming texture of the peelable masks allows for the moisturizing and softening of the upper layer of the skin and promotes the penetration of the active ingredients present in the composition according to the desired action, for example, anti-aging, radiance, anti-spot, moisturizing, astringent, sebum-regulating.

[0008] Peelable masks still have an exfoliating and purifying action which is ensured at the time of removal of the mask by carrying away with it dead cells, impurities and excess sebum.

[0009] However, the majority of film-forming compositions available on the market use synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), silicone resins, or modified celluloses as film-forming agents. These synthetic compounds are often difficult to rinse off or remove. Furthermore, consumers, who are more knowledgeable about the cosmetic products they use, are looking for more natural alternatives.

[0010] To meet this need, the substitution of synthetic ingredients with in- ingredients of natural origin have developed.

[0011] For example, applications WO2020 / 201067 and WO2020 / 128253 are known for providing a film-forming cosmetic composition comprising the combination of a specific legume starch with a plasticizing system comprising at least one polyol in order to provide a cosmetic composition capable of forming a protective film on the skin that can be removed by peeling or washing. In particular, a hydrolyzed and alkylated starch, especially a hydroxypropyl starch, is used in these applications.

[0012] We also know of application WO2016 / 016315 for the supply of a peelable cosmetic mask, comprising a film-forming agent complex composed of two natural film-forming agents, hydrolyzed maize starch and pullulan.

[0013] However, the applicant has discovered that prior art film-forming compositions are not entirely satisfactory. Known film-forming compositions often exhibit insufficient adhesion, which can make application to keratinous materials difficult, and the resulting covering film is often unsatisfactory in terms of mechanical properties, potentially being difficult to apply and remove, for example.

[0014] There is therefore a need for a film-forming composition comprising film-forming agents of natural origin, which is satisfactory in terms of stability, capable of forming, when applied to keratinous materials, a thin, homogeneous and flexible covering film having good mechanical properties and which can be easily removed by peeling and / or by simple rinsing with water.

[0015] To this end, the applicant has surprisingly discovered that by combining two specific modified starches in the presence of a plasticizing system, a synergy can be established to provide a film-forming composition with good adhesion after application to keratinous materials and capable of forming a thin, homogeneous and flexible covering film, having improved mechanical properties, which can be easily removed by peeling and / or by simple rinsing with water.

[0016] The present invention thus aims to provide a film-forming composition comprising:

[0017] - from 1% to 80% of a combination of at least two modified starches; and

[0018] - from 1% to 50% of at least one plasticizing agent,

[0019] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The present invention also aims to provide a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a film-forming composition according to the invention.

[0021] The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a film-forming composition according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it for the care and / or protection of keratinous materials.

[0022] In particular, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a film-forming composition according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to form, on at least one area, keratinous materials, a covering film having properties of care for keratinous materials such as softening, moisturizing, protective, regenerating, sebum-regulating, cleansing or purifying properties of keratinous materials.

[0023] Advantageously, the film-forming composition according to the invention, or the cosmetic composition containing it, has the advantage of spreading over keratinous materials without running and dries in less than 20 minutes to form a sufficiently thin and flexible covering film to produce a second-skin effect. The covering film formed has improved mechanical strength and can be easily removed by peeling and / or by simple rinsing with water.

[0024] More particularly, the covering film formed is peelable, that is to say, it can be removed by peeling after a certain time of application on keratinous materials.

[0025] Advantageously, the peelable film obtained from the film-forming composition according to the invention or from the cosmetic composition containing it, has improved mechanical properties and in particular sufficient resistance to breakage allowing it to be removed in one go without causing tearing when peeling off.

[0026] SUMMARY

[0027] The present invention relates to a film-forming composition, comprising:

[0028] - from 1% to 80% of a combination of at least two modified starches; and

[0029] - from 1% to 50% of at least one plasticizing agent,

[0030] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] In one embodiment, said at least two modified starches are chosen from starches having undergone at least one chemical modification chosen from hydroxyalkylation, carboalkylation, hydrolysis, dextrinification, succination, alkylation, acetylation, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, amidification, or a mixture thereof.

[0032] In a particular embodiment, said at least two modified starches are chosen from starches having undergone at least one chemical modification chosen from hydroxyalkylation, crosslinking or a mixture thereof.

[0033] In a more particular embodiment, said at least two modified starches are chosen from at least one starch hydroxyalkylated by at least one hydroxyalkyl group at C1 to C6 and at least one starch hydroxyalkylated by at least one hydroxyalkyl group at C1 to C6 and crosslinked with at least one phosphate group.

[0034] In a further particular embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention comprises an association of a hydroxypropyl starch and a hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0035] In one embodiment, said at least one plasticizing agent is selected from polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, the pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, isosorbide, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, glucose syrups, dextrins, maltodextrins, or a mixture thereof.

[0036] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention further comprises from 0.05% to 10% of at least one aqueous-phase gelling agent selected from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents, semi-synthetic or chemically transformed natural-origin gelling agents, or a mixture thereof.

[0037] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention further comprises 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one water-soluble volatile solvent chosen from mono-alcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

[0038] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention further comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0039] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention has a viscosity greater than 500 mPas.s, measured at room temperature (20°C) and at room pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 2 to 6 spindle, at a speed of 10 revolutions / minute.

[0040] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a film-forming composition according to the invention.

[0041] The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a film-forming composition according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition according to the invention to form, on at least one area of ​​keratinous materials, a thin and homogeneous covering film.

[0042] Method of obtaining a covering film from a film-forming composition according to the invention or from a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a step of applying the composition to at least one area of ​​the keratinous materials and a drying step for a time of less than 15 min in order to form a thin and homogeneous covering film on at least one area of ​​the keratinous materials.

[0043] DEFINITIONS

[0044] In the present invention, the terms below are defined as follows:

[0045] The term "aqueous phase gelling agent" refers to ingredients capable of modifying the rheology and / or increasing the viscosity of a liquid aqueous composition. "Aqueous phase gelling agents" are capable of creating, in the presence of an aqueous solvent, intermacromolecular bonds of varying strengths, thus leading to a three-dimensional network that solidifies the aqueous solvent. "Aqueous phase gelling agents" "Aqueous phase gelling agents" can be of terrestrial plant origin (carob), marine plant origin (alginate), animal origin (gelatin), biofermentative origin (xanthan gum), mineral origin (silica, salts), synthetic origin (carbomer), and all confer specific physicochemical and sensory characteristics that can be combined and / or modified by associating them in the composition.

[0046] The term "gel" refers to a homogeneous, isotropic, rigid, vibrating, and elastic medium. A gel is a three-dimensional network of solids dissolved in a fluid that exhibits no flow when in a stable state. By mass, gels are primarily composed of liquid, but their behavior is similar to that of solids due to their three-dimensional network entangled within the liquid. These entanglements give gels their structure and contribute to their adhesion. For the purposes of this invention, a gel has a viscosity greater than 500 mPa·s, preferably greater than 1500 mPa·s.

[0047] The term "film-forming composition" refers to a composition comprising at least one film-forming polymer, capable of forming an essentially continuous film on keratinous materials in the presence of a solvent, in particular water. For the purposes of the present invention, film-forming compositions do not comprise synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), silicone resins or modified celluloses, but use film-forming agents of natural origin, in particular starches and more particularly a combination of at least two modified starches.

[0048] The term "include" and its variations should be understood according to the present invention as not excluding the presence of other steps and / or components. In certain embodiments, the term "include" may be interpreted as "essentially consisting of".

[0049] The term “keratinous materials” refers to human keratinous materials such as the skin of the body and face, scalp or hair, hair system, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails.

[0050] The term "viscosity" refers to all phenomena of resistance to the movement of a fluid in a flow with or without turbulence. According to the invention, the viscosity of the composition is measured at ambient temperature (20°C) and ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RDVI viscometer with a type 4 spindle, at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute.

[0051] Those skilled in the art will understand that the ingredient classes given below do not constitute a limitation of the particular compounds mentioned in the different classes. Thus, the compounds mentioned in the different ingredient classes may in some cases fall into more than one classification. However, if in a composition according to the invention a compound belonging to more If one class of ingredients is present, this compound will only be used for one class of ingredients.

[0052] The embodiments described below may include or be combined with elements, features or components of other embodiments, even if they are not expressly illustrated in combination. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0053] The present invention relates to a film-forming composition, comprising an association of at least two modified starches, and at least one plasticizing agent.

[0054] Advantageously, the film-forming composition according to the invention does not include synthetic polymer-type film-forming agents such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), silicone resins or modified celluloses, but uses film-forming agents of natural origin, in particular starches and more particularly an association of at least two modified starches.

[0055] Modified starches

[0056] The film-forming composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of at least two specific modified starches. Preferably, the film-forming composition according to the present invention comprises a combination of two specific modified starches.

[0057] According to one embodiment, the modified starches originate from all plant sources of starch, such as cereals and tubers. More specifically, they may be starches from maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, beans, broad beans, field beans, lentils, lupins, oats, and tapioca.

[0058] The modified starches used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from starches having undergone at least one chemical modification chosen from hydroxyalkylation, carboalkylation, hydrolysis, dextrinification, succination, alkylation, acetylation, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, amidification, or a mixture thereof.

[0059] In a particular embodiment, the modified starches are chosen from starches that have undergone at least one chemical modification chosen from hydroxyalkylation, crosslinking or a mixture thereof.

[0060] For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydroxyalkylation" refers to the substitution, by any technique known to a person skilled in the art, of at least one hydroxyl group by at least one hydroxyalkyl group in C1 to C6, for example by etherification reaction with propylene oxide.

[0061] For the purposes of the invention, "crosslinking" consists of reacting the hydroxyl groups of at least two starches with bifunctional agents, for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups, in order to create bonds between two starches.

[0062] In particular, by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the type Am-O-P0-(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am), tri-starch phosphates (of the type Am-O-P0-(O-Am)2) or a mixture thereof can be obtained, Am meaning starch and X designating alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium or magnesium, ammonia salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline. Phosphorus compounds can be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

[0063] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises an association of at least two modified starches selected from at least one hydroxyalkylated starch and at least one hydroxyalkylated and crosslinked starch.

[0064] In a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises an association of two modified starches selected from at least one hydroxyalkylated starch and at least one hydroxyalkylated and crosslinked starch.

[0065] In a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises an association of a starch hydroxyalkylated by at least one hydroxyalkyl group at C1 to C6 and of a starch hydroxyalkylated by at least one hydroxyalkyl group at C1 to C6 and crosslinked with at least one phosphate group.

[0066] In an even more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises an association of a hydroxypropyl starch and a hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0067] The applicant has notably discovered that hydroxypropyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate act synergistically to provide a film-forming composition with improved properties. In particular, the film-forming composition according to the invention exhibits improved mechanical strength when applied to keratinous materials, resulting in a thin, homogeneous, and flexible coating film. The resulting coating film can be easily removed by peeling and / or by simple rinsing with water.

[0068] In one embodiment, the modified starches may further have undergone at least one physical treatment, in order, for example, to make them soluble in water, selected from the operations of gelatinization, pre-gelatinization, extrusion, atomization, drying, microwave or ultrasonic treatment, plasticization or granulation, or an enzymatic treatment such as hydrolysis by different species of amylase.

[0069] According to the invention, the total concentration of modified starches as defined above represents from 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition, preferably from 5% to 40%, more preferably from 5% to 30%, even more preferably from 10% to 30%.

[0070] In particular, the modified starches are each present in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 30%, more preferably ranging from 5% to 20%.

[0071] Plasticizing agents

[0072] The film-forming composition according to the present invention comprises at least one plasticizing agent.

[0073] According to one embodiment, the plasticizing agent(s) are chosen from polyols.

[0074] The term "polyol" refers to any organic molecule having at least two free hydroxyl groups in its structure. Polyols are liquid at room temperature (25°C).

[0075] Non-limiting examples of polyols that may be used according to the invention include propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, isosorbide, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, glucose syrups, dextrins, maltodextrins, or a mixture thereof.

[0076] In a preferred embodiment, the plasticizing agent(s) are chosen from sorbitol, glycerol, or a mixture thereof.

[0077] According to the invention, the plasticizing agent(s) are present in an amount from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount from 1% to 20%, more preferably in an amount from 1% to 15%, even more preferably in an amount from 1% to 10%, even more preferably in an amount from 2% to 8%.

[0078] Aqueous phase

[0079] The film-forming composition according to the invention may further comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally at least one water-soluble organic solvent at room temperature (25°C) and / or at least one aqueous-phase gelling agent.

[0080] According to the invention, the water-soluble organic solvent(s) are chosen from water-soluble volatile solvents and particularly are chosen from mono-alcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, sec-butanol.

[0081] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention comprises In addition, at least one mono-alcohol having 2 to 5 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, the water-soluble volatile solvent is ethanol.

[0082] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase represents at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the aqueous phase represents from 30% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 40% to 80%, more preferably from 50% to 70%.

[0083] In one embodiment, water represents at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. In another embodiment, water represents from 50% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, preferably from 50% to 80%, more preferably from 50% to 70%.

[0084] In one embodiment, water is present in an amount ranging from 15% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20% to 65%, more preferably from 25% to 60%, even more preferably from 30% to 50%.

[0085] In a particular embodiment, the water-soluble volatile solvent(s) are present in an amount ranging from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition, preferably from 10% to 40%, more preferably from 15% to 25%.

[0086] Advantageously, the presence of a mono-alcohol having 2 to 5 carbon atoms in this proportion, preferably ethanol, allows accelerated drying of the film-forming composition or cosmetic composition according to the invention, leading to the formation of a covering film in a time of less than 20 min, preferably less than 15 min, more preferably less than 5 min.

[0087] Aqueous phase gelling agent

[0088] The film-forming composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase gelling agent.

[0089] In one embodiment, the aqueous phase gelling agent(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents, semi-synthetic gelling agents or chemically transformed natural gelling agents, or a mixture thereof.

[0090] Non-limiting examples of synthetic gelling agents that may be used according to the invention include anionic gelling agents such as carbomers, sodium polyacrylate, acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and a Ci-C30 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate, modified sulfonated acrylic acid copolymers, associative acrylic polymers or copolymers or a mixture thereof; cationic gelling agents such as acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylate copolymer or polyquaternium-37; polyethylene glycols such as glycerol fatty acid polyesters or poly- ethoxylated glycerols or ethoxylated monosaccharide fatty acid polyesters.

[0091] Non-limiting examples of natural gelling agents that can be used according to the invention include gums such as xanthan gum, guar gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, tara gum, gellan gum, tragacanth gum, alginates, carrageenans, gelatin, pectins, agar-agar or a mixture thereof.

[0092] Non-limiting examples of chemically transformed semi-synthetic or natural gelling agents that can be used according to the invention include starch and its derivatives, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, cellulose powder, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose or a mixture thereof.

[0093] In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous-phase gelling agent(s) that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from natural gelling agents. In a more preferred embodiment, the aqueous-phase gelling agent is xanthan gum.

[0094] In one embodiment, the aqueous phase gelling agent(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5%, more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5%, even more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.0%.

[0095] Thus, the film-forming composition according to the invention comprises:

[0096] - from 1% to 80% of an association of at least two modified starches;

[0097] - from 1% to 50% of at least one plasticizing agent,

[0098] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0099] In a particular embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention comprises:

[0100] - from 1% to 80% of a combination of two modified starches;

[0101] - from 1% to 50% of at least one plasticizing agent,

[0102] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0103] In a particular embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention comprises:

[0104] - from 1% to 80% of an association of at least two modified starches;

[0105] - from 1% to 50% of at least one plasticizing agent;

[0106] - optionally, from 0.05% to 10% of at least one aqueous phase gelling agent;

[0107] - optionally, from 5% to 60% of at least one water-soluble volatile solvent chosen from mono-alcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0108] - optionally 15% to 70% water,

[0109] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0110] In a particular embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention comprises: [YES] -from 80% to an association of two modified starches;

[0112] - from 1% to 50% of at least one plasticizing agent;

[0113] - optionally, from 0.05% to 10% of at least one aqueous phase gelling agent;

[0114] - optionally, from 5% to 60% of at least one water-soluble volatile solvent chosen from mono-alcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0115] - optionally 15% to 70% water,

[0116] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0117] In a more particular embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention comprises:

[0118] - from 1% to 80% of a combination of two modified starches selected from at least a starch hydroxyalkylated by at least one hydroxyalkyl group at C1 to C6 and at least one starch hydroxyalkylated by at least one hydroxyalkyl group at C1 to C6 and crosslinked with at least one phosphate group;

[0119] - from 1% to 50% of at least one plasticizing agent chosen from among the polyols;

[0120] - from 0.05% to 10% of at least one aqueous-phase gelling agent selected from the natural gelling agents;

[0121] - from 5% to 60% of at least one water-soluble volatile solvent chosen from the monoalcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and

[0122] - from 15% to 70% water,

[0123] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.

[0124] Cosmetic composition

[0125] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a film-forming composition as described above.

[0126] The term "cosmetically acceptable" refers to any medium compatible with keratinous materials that does not present any adverse side effects such as redness, inflammation, heat, tightness, or tingling for a user. For example, a cosmetically acceptable medium may be an oily phase and / or an aqueous phase.

[0127] Additives and active ingredients

[0128] According to one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention and the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the ingredients as described above.

[0129] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention and the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic and / or lipophilic active ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic field and having properties for the care of keratinous materials, such as softening, moisturizing, protective, regenerating, sebum-regulating, cleansing or purifying properties of keratinous materials.

[0130] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include sunscreens, vitamins and provitamins, humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents, whitening agents, anti-pollution agents, peeling agents, sebum-regulating agents, keratolytic agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-aging agents, skin microcirculation activators, tightening agents, antioxidant agents, or a mixture thereof.

[0131] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention and the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive selected from coloring agents selected from water-soluble organic colorants, natural colorants of vegetable or mineral origin, organic or mineral pigments, pearlescent pigments; preservatives; perfumes; fillers; stabilizers; pH adjusting agents; perfumes; sequestering agents; solubilizing agents; or a mixture thereof.

[0132] The active ingredient(s) or additive(s) used in the first composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total of the film-forming composition or the cosmetic composition, preferably from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01 to 5%.

[0133] A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic ingredient(s) so as not to alter the organo-sensory qualities and properties of the film-forming composition according to the invention and of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0134] Galenic

[0135] The film-forming composition according to the invention and the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in a pharmaceutical form commonly used in the cosmetic field, particularly for the care of keratinous materials, such as emulsions, gels, creams, lotion or serum-type dispersions, suspensions, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, ionic and / or non-ionic vesicular dispersions, varnishes, body oils, masks, ointments, salves, and concentrated solutions. These pharmaceutical forms Lenics can be obtained according to the usual methods known to those skilled in the art and may also include usual and cosmetically acceptable excipients and carriers.

[0136] In a preferred embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention and the cosmetic composition according to the invention are in the form of an aqueous gel. In this embodiment, the aqueous gel may be transparent or opaque, colored or uncolored.

[0137] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention and the cosmetic composition according to the invention have a viscosity greater than 500 mPa·s; in another embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 500 mPa·s to 50,000 mPa·s; in another embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 5,000 mPa·s to 40,000 mPa.s; in one embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 5000 mPa.s to 30000 mPa.s; in one embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 5000 mPa.s to 25000 mPa.s; in one embodiment, a viscosity ranging from 10000 mPa.s to 20000 mPa.s. Viscosity is measured at room temperature (20°C) and at room pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 2 to 6 mobile, at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute.

[0138] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a pH between 3.0 and 7.0; in another embodiment, a pH between 4.0 and 6.0; in another embodiment, a pH between 4.5 and 5.5.

[0139] Cosmetic use of the film-forming composition according to the invention and of the cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0140] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a film-forming composition according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it for the care and / or protection of keratinous materials, for example to give keratinous materials softening, moisturizing, protective, regenerating, sebum-regulating, cleansing or purifying properties of keratinous materials.

[0141] In particular, the film-forming composition according to the invention or the cosmetic composition comprising it are used to form, on at least one area of ​​keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as facial and / or body skin, a covering film having properties of care for keratinous materials such as softening, moisturizing, protective, regenerating, sebum-regulating, cleansing or purifying properties of keratinous materials.

[0142] Advantageously, the film-forming composition according to the invention or the cosmetic composition containing it exhibits improved mechanical strength when applied to keratinous materials, leading to a thin, homogeneous and flexible covering film that can be easily removed by simple rinsing with water.

[0143] More specifically, the coating film formed is peelable, that is to say, it can be removed by peeling after a certain time of application on keratinous materials.

[0144] Advantageously, the peelable film obtained from the film-forming composition according to the invention or from the cosmetic composition containing it has improved mechanical properties and in particular sufficient resistance to breakage allowing it to be removed in one go without causing tearing when peeling off.

[0145] The present invention also relates to a method of obtaining a covering film from a film-forming composition according to the invention or from a cosmetic composition containing it, comprising a step of applying the film-forming composition according to the invention or from the cosmetic composition containing it to at least one area of ​​the keratinous materials and a step of drying the composition applied in the previous step in order to form a thin and homogeneous covering film on at least one area of ​​the keratinous materials.

[0146] In particular, the film-forming composition according to the invention or the cosmetic composition containing it is applied to at least one area of ​​keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as facial and / or body skin.

[0147] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention or the cosmetic composition containing it are applied in a layer of varying thickness so as to form a uniform film on at least one area of ​​the keratinous materials.

[0148] In one embodiment, the composition, once applied to at least one area of ​​the keratinous materials, is left to dry at room temperature or at a temperature close to room temperature, for a time of less than 20 min, preferably less than 15 min, more preferably less than 5 min.

[0149] The present invention further relates to a method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the following steps: - application of the film-forming composition according to the invention or of the cosmetic composition containing it on at least one area to be treated of keratinous materials; - drying of the composition applied in the previous step in order to form a thin and homogeneous covering film on at least one area to be treated of keratinous materials; - application of the protective film obtained in the previous step onto at least one area to be treated with keratinous materials; and - removal of the film by peeling and / or rinsing.

[0150] In particular, the film-forming composition according to the invention or the cosmetic composition containing it is applied to at least one area to be treated of keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as the skin of the face and / or body.

[0151] In one embodiment, the film-forming composition according to the invention or the cosmetic composition containing it are applied in a more or less thick layer so as to form a uniform covering film on at least one area to be treated of keratinous materials.

[0152] In one embodiment, the composition, once applied to at least one area to be treated of keratinous materials, is left to dry at room temperature or at a temperature close to room temperature, for a time of less than 20 min, preferably less than 15 min, more preferably less than 5 min.

[0153] In one embodiment, the resulting coating film is left to remain on at least one area to be treated with keratinous materials for a period of one minute to several hours, preferably from one minute to 48 hours, more preferably from one minute to 24 hours. The coating film is then removed by peeling and / or rinsing. EXAMPLES

[0154] The present invention will be better understood by reading the following examples which illustrate the invention in a non-limiting way.

[0155] The composition according to Example 1 is prepared according to any method known to a person skilled in the art for the preparation of cosmetic compositions, using the ingredients described in Table 1 below.

[0156] All percentages mentioned for compositions in the examples below are percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] Example 1: Composition of an anti-blemish mask according to the invention

[0158] Table 1 below presents an example of an anti-blemish mask composition according to the invention in the form of an aqueous gel.

[0159] [Tables 1] INCI % w / w Aqua 46.50 Ethyl alcohol 20.00 Hydroxypropyl starch 15.00 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 8.00 Glycerin 5.00 Sorbitol (hydrogenated starch hydrolysate) 3.00 Xanthan gum 0.30 Zinc PCA / copper PCA 1.10 Pigments 0.50

[0160] The composition according to example 1 is in the form of an aqueous gel having a viscosity of 12000 Pa.s - 18000 mPa.s, measured at room temperature (20°C) and room pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 4 mobile, at a speed of 10 revolutions / minute.

[0161] An amount of 0.02 to 0.05 g / cm2 of the composition according to example 1 was applied in a thin layer to an area of ​​keratinous material of approximately 2 cm2. When applied to the area to be treated, the composition according to example 1 does not run and spreads easily to form a thin and uniform film in the form of a gel, on the treated area.

[0162] The film formed was then left to dry at room temperature to lead to the formation of a thin, homogeneous and flexible peelable film after a drying time of between 15 min and 20 min.

[0163] A usage test was carried out on a panel of 10 people. The peelable film obtained could be removed by peeling in one go without causing any tearing during removal.

[0164] Also, the stability of the composition according to example 1 was evaluated at different temperatures, up to 50°C and at different periods, up to 36 months.

[0165] During the test period, no impact of temperature increase was observed on the physicochemical properties (pH, viscosity), organoleptic parameters and performance, showing good stability of the film-forming composition over time.

[0166] Example 2: Comparative Examples

[0167] Examples 2A and 2B below show the advantage of using a combination of two specific modified starches to obtain a film-forming composition with good adhesion after application to keratinous materials and capable of forming a thin and homogeneous covering film with good mechanical properties, allowing it to be removed in one piece without causing tearing when peeling off.

[0168] Table 2 below shows the composition according to example 1 in which hydroxypropyl starch (example 2A) and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (example 2B) are used alone.

[0169] [Tables2] INCI Ex. 1 % w / w Ex. 2A % w / w Ex. 2B % w / w Aqua 46.50 46.50 46.50 Ethyl alcohol 20.00 20.00 20.00 Hydroxypropyl starch 15.00 23.00 0.00 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 8.00 0.00 23.00 Glycerin 5.00 5.00 5.00 Sorbitol 3.00 3.00 3.00 Xanthan gum 0.30 0.30 0.30 Active ingredients 1.10 1.10 1.10 Additives 0.50 0.50 0.50

[0170] In Example 2A, corresponding to the removal of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, a peelable film is obtained after application to an area of ​​keratinous material. However, the resulting film-forming composition does not exhibit good adhesion, making it difficult to spread. This is therefore unsatisfactory for user comfort. The composition is also not stable over time.

[0171] In example 2B, corresponding to the removal of hydroxypropyl starch, the resulting film-forming composition is in the form of an aqueous gel that is too thick and difficult to scoop and spread on the skin, leading to the formation of a peelable film that is too thin, very weak, and therefore difficult to remove. This is also unsatisfactory for user comfort.

[0172] Further tests were carried out by reducing the amount of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. However, the compositions obtained lacked stability and led to the formation of a poor-quality covering film.

Claims

Demands

1. Film-forming composition comprising: - from 1% to 80% of an association of a hydroxypropyl starch and a hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; - from 1% to 50% of at least one plasticizing agent; the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said at least two modified starches are selected from starches having undergone at least one chemical modification selected from hydroxyalkylation, carboalkylation, hydrolysis, dextrinification, succination, alkylation, acetylation, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, amidation, or a mixture thereof.

3. Cl. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that said at least two modified starches are selected from starches having undergone at least one chemical modification selected from hydroxyalkylation, crosslinking or a mixture thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises an association of at least two modified starches selected from at least one starch hydroxyalkylated by at least one hydroxyalkylated group at C1 to C6 and at least one starch hydroxyalkylated by at least one hydroxyalkylated group at C1 to C6 and crosslinked with at least one phosphate group.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said at least one plasticizing agent is selected from polyols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, isosorbide, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, glucose syrups, dextrins, maltodextrins, or a mixture thereof.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further comprises from 0.05% to 10% of at least one aqueous-phase gelling agent selected from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents, semi-synthetic gelling agents or chemically processed natural-origin gelling agents, or a a mixture of these.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one water-soluble volatile solvent selected from mono-alcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it has a viscosity greater than 500 mPas.s, measured at room temperature (20°C) and at room pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 2 to 6 Mobile, at a speed of 10 revolutions / minute.

10. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a film-forming composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. Cosmetic use of a film-forming composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or of a cosmetic composition according to claim 11 to form, on at least one area of ​​keratinous materials, a thin and homogeneous covering film.

12. A method for obtaining a covering film from a film-forming composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or from a cosmetic composition according to claim 10, comprising a step of applying the composition to at least one area of ​​the keratinous materials and a drying step for a time of less than 15 min in order to form a thin and homogeneous covering film on at least one area of ​​the keratinous materials.