TWO-PHASE COMPOSITION
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023002958
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-03-28
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-31
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-03-28
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: TWO-PHASE COMPOSITION Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a two-phase or biphasic composition which has two visually distinct phases and is capable of transforming into a single-phase composition which can again transform into a two-phase or biphasic composition. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Compositions having two visually distinct phases, including an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which are not emulsified into each other at rest are generally referred to as "two-phase" (or "biphasic") compositions. They differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are separated and form a single interface between the two phases, rather than forming multiple interfaces between a continuous phase and each of the discontinuous phases present in emulsions.
[0003] Such two-phase compositions have already been described, for example, in EP-A-370 856 and EP-A-603 080, in particular for removing makeup around the eyes.
[0004] It is preferable that a two-phase composition before being used, i.e. at rest, is stable so that the appearance and / or odor of the composition can remain unchanged for a long period.
[0005] In use, a two-phase composition requires mixing, such as stirring, to form a single-phase composition, such as a "temporary" emulsion, which is then applied to a keratinous substance such as skin. This single-phase composition must provide target cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal capability. It is preferable that the single-phase composition can provide cosmetic effects without causing discomfort.
[0006] Furthermore, after use, i.e. at rest, the single-phase composition must return to its initial state by transformation into a two-phase composition, which is known as "phase separation".
[0007] Thus, there is a need for a stable two-phase or biphasic composition with two visually distinct phases when unmixed, and which can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed, wherein the single-phase composition can provide good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal ability, without discomfort, and can cleanly return to its initial state, i.e., a two-phase or biphasic composition. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0008] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable two-phase composition which can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed, wherein the single-phase composition can provide good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal ability, without discomfort, and can cleanly return to a two-phase composition.
[0009] The above objective can be achieved by a two-phase composition comprising:
[0010] an oily phase comprising (a) at least one oil, and
[0011] an aqueous phase comprising: a. at least one aromatic ketone compound represented by the following chemical formula (I):
[0012] in which
[0013] R5, R6 and R7, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, a group hydroxyl, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 alkoxy group, provided that at least one of R5, R6 and R7 represents a hydroxyl group, and
[0014] R represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or an aryl group; a. at least one polyhydroxy acid or a salt thereof; b. water; and c. at least one polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid.
[0015] The composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a single-phase composition. The single-phase composition can be transformed into a two-phase composition.
[0016] The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably isohexadecane, isododecane, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl myristate and a mixture thereof.
[0017] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 6% to 70% by weight, preferably from 8% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] The R in the chemical formula (I) may represent a methyl group, an ethyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a methyl group or a phenyl group, and more preferably a methyl group.
[0019] The (b) aromatic ketone compound may be hydroxyacetophenone, preferably monohydroxyacetophenone, and more preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0020] The amount of the (b) aromatic ketone compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.005%. at 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0021] The (c) polyhydroxy acid may be in the form of a lactone. The (c) polyhydroxy acid may be gluconolactone.
[0022] The amount of the (c) polyhydroxy acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0023] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 60% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 93% by weight, and more preferably from 80% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) two or more poly-glyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably chosen from C 4-C 14 fatty acid polyglyceryl mono and diesters, and more preferably a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate and polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin and eyelashes.
[0026] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance, comprising:
[0027] mixing the composition according to the present invention to form a single-phase composition; and
[0028] the application of the single-phase composition to the keratinous substance. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0029] After careful research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable two-phase composition which can be transformed into a single-phase composition by mixing when used, in which the single-phase composition can provide good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal ability, without discomfort, and can neatly return to a two-phase composition when not in use.
[0030] Thus, one aspect of the present invention relates to a two-phase composition comprising:
[0031] an oily phase comprising (a) at least one oil, and
[0032] an aqueous phase comprising: a. at least one aromatic ketone compound represented by the following chemical formula (I):
[0033] in which
[0034] R5, R6 and R7, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, a group hydroxyl, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 alkoxy group, provided that at least one of R5, R6 and R7 represents a hydroxyl group, and
[0035] R represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or an aryl group; a. of at least one polyhydroxy acid or a salt thereof; b. water; and c. at least one polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid.
[0036] The composition according to the present invention is stable and has two visually distinct phases when not mixed. However, the composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed. The single-phase composition, such as an emulsion, can provide good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal ability, without discomfort. The single-phase composition can neatly return to a two-phase composition.
[0037] The composition according to the present invention is stable so that it can maintain an oil phase and an aqueous phase separately when not mixed. Therefore, the two-phase or biphasic appearance of the composition according to the present invention can be maintained during storage and the like of the composition according to the present invention.
[0038] In particular, the composition according to the present invention could be stable so that the appearance and / or odor of the composition could remain unchanged for a long period of time under various temperature and storage conditions. For example, the composition according to the present invention could be stable at a lower or higher temperature, with or without stirring. Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can be well stored, especially at a lower or higher temperature, even during transportation by automobiles which may cause vibration and the like.
[0039] When used, the composition according to the present invention is mixed. The two phases in the composition according to the present invention are an oily phase comprising at least one oil and an aqueous phase comprising water. Therefore, when mixing the composition according to the present invention, one of the two phases may be dispersed in the other phase to form an O / W or W / O composition, such as an O / W or W / O emulsion, which is visually uniform or forms a single phase.
[0040] Mixing of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out easily. For example, mixing of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by stirring with the hands. After mixing the composition according to the present invention, the composition can form and maintain a single phase for a certain period of time without being mixed again.
[0041] According to the present invention, the single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition can provide good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal ability. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition, preferably as a cleansing cosmetic composition, and more preferably as a cleansing cosmetic composition for skin and eyelashes.
[0042] Furthermore, the single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can slowly penetrate into a porous substrate, such as a cotton sheet, which is used for removing makeup. The slow penetration can cause the single-phase composition to remain more on the substrate. Thus, the larger amount of the single-phase composition can exert better makeup removal.
[0043] Furthermore, the single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can be comfortable, for example, it is less irritating. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be, for example, gentle on the skin, especially sensitive skin such as the skin around the eyes. Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can provide good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal ability, without discomfort.
[0044] If the two-phase composition according to the present invention before being mixed is transparent, the single-phase composition formed by mixing the two-phase composition may also be transparent.
[0045] The single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can return to a two-phase composition, after a certain period of time, by causing phase separation again to reform two visually distinct phases again. If the speed of return is too fast, phase separation may occur even during use, and this may cause the cosmetic effects by the present invention to deteriorate. According to the present invention, the return speed is appropriate and may be relatively slow, which can consequently prevent phase separation during use. Therefore, the present invention can provide enhanced cosmetic effects.
[0046] According to the present invention, the two phases found can also be clean so that no droplets, which could be formed by one of the oily or aqueous phases in the other phase, can attach to the wall of a container comprising the composition according to the present invention after phase separation.
[0047] The composition according to the present invention is useful, in particular, as a makeup remover, preferably as a makeup remover for keratinous fibers, and more preferably as a makeup remover for eyelashes, that is to say a mascara.
[0048] The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.
[0049] [Composition]
[0050] (Oil)
[0051] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0052] The (a) oil forms the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0053] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0054] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil and a symmetrical ether oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil as well as an ester oil or an asymmetrical ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0055] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0056] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, meadowfoam oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0057] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0058] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0059] As an example of ether oils, dicaprylyl ether may be mentioned.
[0060] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0061] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0062] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentanoate isodecyl and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0063] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0064] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0065] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on hydrocarbons carrying oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0066] Examples of suitable sugars which may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0067] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22*. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0068] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
[0069] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0070] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0071] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0072] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0073] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl / caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0074] Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0075] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0076] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0077] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0078] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also included are cyclocopolymers of a type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide, of the formula:
[0079] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and i. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5x106 m2 / s or less at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0080] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0081] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 range oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; and • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0082] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0083] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.
[0084] The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0085] in which
[0086] Ri to Rio are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably CpCn hydrocarbon-based radicals and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0087] m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0088] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.
[0089] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; • oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer’s PK range, such as the PK20 product; • certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0090] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R10 to R10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.
[0091] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0092] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • lower C6-C16 alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.
[0093] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.
[0094] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
[0095] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0096] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino-leyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, preferably saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 alcohols.
[0098] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 fatty alcohols, saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 fatty alcohols may be used preferentially. Any saturated, linear or branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used preferentially. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.
[0099] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, octyldodecanol and hexyldecanol may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0100] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferentially chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof. The (a) oil may preferentially be selected from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof.
[0102] The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from C8-C16 branched volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably chosen from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane and a mixture thereof.
[0103] It is preferable that the ether oils are non-volatile. The ether oil may be selected from dialkyl ethers represented by the following formula
[0104] R'-O-R2
[0105] in which
[0106] each of R1 and R2 independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C^alkyl group, preferably a C6, x alkyl group, and more preferably a C8 i2-alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1 and R2 are identical.
[0107] As a linear alkyl group, there may be mentioned a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.
[0108] As a branched alkyl group, there may be mentioned a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.
[0109] As a cyclic alkyl group, there may be mentioned a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0110] It may be preferable that the ether oil is selected from the group consisting of di-caprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and their mixtures.
[0111] It may be more preferable that the ether oil is selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Dicaprylyl ether may be most preferable.
[0112] The ester oils may be selected from monoesters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoacids and linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols. Monoesters of linear saturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoacids and branched saturated C1-C10 aliphatic alcohols may be preferable.
[0113] It may be even more preferable that the ester oils are selected from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and a mixture thereof.
[0114] It is particularly preferable that the (a) oil is selected from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isododecane, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl myristate and a mixture thereof.
[0115] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 6% by weight or more, preferably 8% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the (a) oil is not zero.
[0117] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 6% to 70% by weight, preferably from 8% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0118] (Compo se aromatic ketone)
[0119] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one aromatic ketone compound. If two (b) or more aromatic ketone compounds are used, they may be the same or different.
[0120] The (b) aromatic ketone compound is represented by the following chemical formula (I) CO R?
[0121] in which
[0122] R5, R6 and R7, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, a group hydroxyl, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 alkoxy group, provided that at least one of R5, R6 and R7 represents a hydroxyl group, and
[0123] R represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or an aryl group.
[0124] As the C1-C6 alkyl group, for example, a methyl group, an ethyl group and a propyl group may be mentioned. A methyl group is preferable.
[0125] As the C1-C6 alkoxy group, for example, a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group may be mentioned. A methoxy group is preferable.
[0126] As the aryl group, for example, a phenyl group, a substituted phenyl group, a naphthyl group and a substituted naphthyl group may be mentioned. As substituents, a hydroxyl group and a C1-C6 alkyl group such as a methyl group may be mentioned. A phenyl group is preferable.
[0127] It is preferable that the R in the chemical formula (I) above represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a methyl group or a phenyl group, and more preferably a methyl group.
[0128] As (b) aromatic ketone compound, there may be mentioned, for example,
[0129] 2-hydroxyacetophenone,
[0130] 3-hydroxyacetophenone,
[0131] 4-hydroxy acetophenone,
[0132] 2,5-dihydroxy acetophenone,
[0133] 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone,
[0134] 4-hydroxy-3-methoxyacetophenone,
[0135] 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone,
[0136] 2',2'-dihydroxybenzophenone
[0137] 2-hydroxybenzophenone,
[0138] 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, and
[0139] 3,4,2',4',6'-pentahydroxybenzophenone.
[0140] It is preferable that the (b) aromatic ketone compound is hydroxyacetophenone, more preferably monohydroxyacetophenone, and even more preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0141] The amount of the (b) aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0142] The amount of (b) aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition, provided that the amount of (b) aromatic ketone compound is not zero.
[0143] The amount of (b) aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0144] (Polyhydroxyacid)
[0145] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one polyhydroxy acid or a salt thereof. If two or more polyhydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.
[0146] The term "polyhydroxy acid" as used herein refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.
[0147] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is selected from sugar acids.
[0148] Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0149] It is preferable that the (c) polyhydroxy acid is in the form of a lactone. The The lactone ring of the (c) polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone may be saturated. Examples of the (c) polyhydroxy acid include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.
[0150] It is preferable that the (c) polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.
[0151] The type of the salt is not limited. Examples of the salt include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. The sodium salt is preferable. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0152] The amount of the (c) polyhydroxy acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0153] The amount of the (c) polyhydroxy acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition, provided that the amount of the (b) polyhydroxy acid(s) or one or more salts thereof is not zero.
[0154] The amount of the (c) polyhydroxy acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0155] (Water)
[0156] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.
[0157] (d) Water may form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0158] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0159] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of (d) water is not zero.
[0160] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0161] (Polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid)
[0162] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. If two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, they may be the same or different.
[0163] It is preferable that the fatty acid moiety of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0164] If the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has a single fatty acid moiety, it is preferable that the fatty acid moiety has from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0165] If the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has a plurality of fatty acid moieties, it is preferable that each of the fatty acid moieties has from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0166] In other words, it is preferable that the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester does not comprise a fatty acid moiety derived from long carbon chain fatty acids (containing more C14 carbon atoms).
[0167] The (e) polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid may be chosen from mono, di and triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably of saturated fatty acid, comprising from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as myristic acid, lauric acid, capric acid, and caprylic acid.
[0168] It is preferable that the (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 6 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 6 glycerols, and even more preferably from 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, it is preferable that the (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises from 2 to 6 polyglyceryl units, more preferably from 4 to 6 polyglyceryl units, and even more preferably from 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.
[0169] In the composition according to the present invention, the (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is present in the aqueous phase. Therefore, the (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is relatively hydrophilic.
[0170] Thus, the (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value of 8.0 or more, preferably 9.0 or more, and more preferably 10.0 or more and / or 17.0 or less, preferably 16.0 or less, and more preferably 15.0 or less. If two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.
[0171] The term HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. HLB values can be calculated with the formula HLB=20*(1S / A), where S is the saponification index of the ester and A is the neutralization index of the fatty acid.
[0172] The (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl monoesters.
[0173] The fatty acid polyglyceryl monoester may have an HLB value of 8.0 to 17.0, preferably 9.0 to 16.0, and more preferably 10.0 to 15.0. If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters.
[0174] The fatty acid polyglyceryl monoester may be selected from the group consisting of PG4 laurate (HLB: 10.3), PG5 laurate (HLB: 10.5), PG4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: about 15), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG5 oleate (HLB: 12.2), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1), and mixtures thereof.
[0175] As PG6 caprylate, for example, SunSoft Q-8H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd. can be used.
[0176] The (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl diesters.
[0177] The polyglyceryl fatty acid diester may have an HLB value of 8.0 to 17.0, preferably 9.0 to 16.0, and more preferably 10.0 to 15.0. If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters.
[0178] The polyglyceryl fatty acid diester may be PG-6 dicaprylate (HLB: 13 to 15), PG-6 dicaprate (HLB: 10.2), and mixtures thereof.
[0179] As PG6 dicaprate, for example, SunSoft Q-102H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. can be used.
[0180] The (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be chosen from C4-Ci4 (preferably C5-Ci2 and more preferably C6-Cio) fatty acid polyglyceryl mono and diesters, and more preferably chosen from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate and a mixture thereof.
[0181] It is preferable to use a mixture of at least two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably chosen from mono and diesters of polyglyceryl fatty acid, and more preferably a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate and polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate.
[0182] The amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0183] The amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition, provided that the amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is not zero.
[0184] The amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0185] (Hydrophilic thickener)
[0186] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one hydrophilic thickener. If two or more hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be the same or different.
[0187] The (f) hydrophilic thickener can thicken the composition according to the present invention, by thickening the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0188] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the first composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
[0189] The hydrophilic thickener(s) are preferably chosen from non-associative thickening polymers carrying sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0190] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “sugar unit” means a compound based on hydrocarbons bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0191] The sugar units may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0192] The sugar units which may be included in the non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention are preferentially derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0193]
[0194]
[0195]
[0196]
[0197]
[0198]
[0199]
[0200] Non-associative thickening polymers carrying sugar units which may be cited in particular include native gums such as: (a) tree or shrub exudates, comprising: • gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • gum ghatti (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); • karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); (b) gums derived from algae, including: • agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); • alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); • carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); (c) gums from seeds or tubers, comprising: • guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); • konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); (d) microbial gums, comprising: • xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); • gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) plant extracts, comprising: • cellulose (glucose polymer); • starch (glucose polymer) and • inulin. These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. A physical treatment that can be particularly addressed is temperature. Chemical treatments that can be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that can be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.
[0201] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, carob gums, starches and celluloses.
[0202] The non-ionic guar gums which can be used according to the present invention can be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0203] Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0204] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
[0205] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.
[0206] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
[0207] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are selected, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
[0208] Starches can be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.
[0209] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will be used preferentially, for example the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized cassava hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized cassava acetyldistarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).
[0210] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
[0211] Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, in especially corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.
[0212] The non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a Cio-C3o fatty chain in their structure.
[0213] According to the present invention, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" designates any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0214] Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the present invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
[0215] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.
[0216] Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0217] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a Cio-C3o fatty chain, i.e. which are non-associative, mention may be made of (CrC4) alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical; (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical; hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0218] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.
[0219] Among the cationic cellulose ethers without fatty chain, we can cite the derivatives of cationic cellulose such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0220] Among the non-associative thickening polymers not carrying sugar units which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, homopolymers of ammonium acrylate, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, alone or as mixtures.
[0221] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers which is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
[0222] Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar range, for example, the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers bear the INCI name Carbomer.
[0223] Non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.
[0224] The non-associative thickening polymers may be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.
[0225] Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document concerning these polymers.
[0226] The composition may also comprise, as non-associative thickening polymers, homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.
[0227] Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be cited, there is the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst. Among the ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers that may be cited, there is the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst. Reference may be made in particular to FR 2 416 723, US 2,798,053 and US 2,923,692 with regard to the description and preparation of these compounds.
[0228] It is also possible to use cationic thickening polymers of the acrylic type.
[0229] Among the hydrophilic thickening polymers, mention may also be made of associative polymers which are well known to those skilled in the art and in particular of a non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.
[0230] It is recalled that associative polymers are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0231] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
[0232] The expression “hydrophobic group” designates a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0233] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example polybutadiene.
[0234] Among the anionic type associative polymers which may be cited are: • (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl unit fatty chain ether, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or their mixtures.
[0235] Among the anionic associative polymers, those which are particularly preferred according to the present invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
[0236] Among these latter polymers, those which are most particularly preferred are the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol stearyl alcohol ether (10 EO) (Steareth-10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10). • (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of the carbo- unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type (C10-C30) alkyl ester.
[0237] Alkyl (Cio-C3o) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids that are useful in the present invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0238] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US Patents 3,915,921 and US Patents 4,509,949.
[0239] Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or alternatively those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above, will be used more particularly.
[0240] Among the above-mentioned polymers, those which are most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRI®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferably Pemulen TRI®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.
[0241] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP; • (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / maleate terpolymers alkyl, such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by Newphase Technologies. • (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising: i. about 20% to 70% by weight of an a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A], ii. about 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than [A], iii. about 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,
[0242] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a terpolymer of me- thacrylic / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) as 25% aqueous dispersion; • (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carbo- carboxylic acid a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated] and an ester of a carboxylic acid a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated] and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
[0243] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C1-C4 alcohol.
[0244] An example of such a compound that may be cited is Aculyn 22® sold by Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer; and also Aculyn 88, also sold by Rohm & Haas. • (f) amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenated monomer- unsaturated polymers bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers can be crosslinked or not crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.
[0245] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are in particular chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Cr C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, and their mixtures.
[0246] (Meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, will be more preferably used.
[0247] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used more particularly.
[0248] The polymers of this family may be chosen in particular from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic monomers ethylenically unsaturated acids chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives [3-substituted] or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0249] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.
[0250] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their [3-substituted] alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0251] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 750 899, US patent 5,089,578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima: • Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, no. 40, (2000), 323-336; • Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 3694-3704 ; • Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties co-valently bound to a polyelectrolyte: sait effects on rheological behavior -Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, no 12, 5324-5332 ; • Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221.
[0252] Parmi ces polymères, on peut citer : • crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899; • terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US-5,089,578.
[0253] Mention may also be made of copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.
[0254] Among the cationic associative polymers, we can cite: a. cationic associative polyurethanes; b. the compound sold by the company Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.
[0255] The crosslinked polymer of polyacrylate-1 is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: • a di(Ci-C4 alkyl)amino(Ci-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, • one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, • a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide units), • a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, • a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and • an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. a. quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by Aqualon, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C[8 alkyl) sold by Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® sold by Aqualon; b. cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.
[0256] These polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.
[0257] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers which can be used for the present invention, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacryl-amidopro- tosylate terpolymers pylammonium, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride are used in particular.
[0258] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferentially chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 and 20 mol%, preferentially 1.5 to 15 mol% and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers are preferred.
[0259] Amphoteric associative polymers which can be used for the present invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.
[0260] Among the amphoteric associative polymers which can be used for the present invention, those which are preferred are acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
[0261] The non-ionic type associative polymers which can be used for the present invention are preferentially chosen from: a. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and fatty chain hydrophobic monomers, examples of which include: • Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer), sold by the company ISP, • Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer), sold by the company ISP, a. Copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name ANTIL 208®, b. Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; c. Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks, usually of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences; d. polymers with an aminoplastic ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie; e. celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or their mixtures in which the alkyl groups are C8, and in particular: • non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C16 alkyl) products sold by Aqualon; • non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol; • non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel;
[0262] (g) associative guar derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guars modified by a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified by a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified by a CM alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by a C2o alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.
[0263] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic chains based on hydrocarbons containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible to envisage one or more side chains. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
[0264] Polyether polyurethanes can be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer carrying a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.
[0265] Non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.
[0266] By extension, also included among the non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
[0267] As examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers which can be used for the present invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205® carrying a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®.
[0268] Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® carrying a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® carrying a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo.
[0269] Rohm & Haas' DW 1206B® product carrying a C2o alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
[0270] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of these polymers which may be cited include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
[0271] The polyurethane polyethers which can be used for the present invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen -Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).
[0272] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyether polyurethane which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
[0273] These polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
[0274] It is preferable that the (f) hydrophilic thickener is chosen from (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, preferentially chosen from hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and their mixtures, and more preferentially is hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0275] The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0276] The amount of the (f) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.4% by weight or less, preferably 0.3% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the (a) oil is not zero.
[0277] The amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 0.4% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0278] (Citric acid ester)
[0279] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one citric acid ester. If two or more citric acid esters are used, they may be the same or different.
[0280] The (f) citric acid ester can be represented by the following chemical formula (I): CH,C(O)~ OR, ® R4O—CHC(O) — ORj CH2C(O)-—OR3
[0281] in which
[0282] R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C30 hydrocarbon group, or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic C3-C30 hydrocarbon group, in which at least one of Rb, R2 and R3 is not a hydrogen atom, and
[0283] R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a group R'4-CO- in which R'4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C8 hydrocarbon group, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C3-C8 hydrocarbon group.
[0284] It is preferable that Rb R2 and R3 are all a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C1-C30 hydrocarbon group, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C3-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferably a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C1-C30 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferably a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl group.
[0285] It is preferable that Ri is a hydrogen atom or a group R'4-CO- in which R'4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C8 hydrocarbon group, more preferably a hydrogen atom or a group R'4-CO- in which R'4 represents a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl group, and even more preferably a hydrogen atom or a group R'4-CO- in which R'4 represents a methyl group.
[0286] It may be preferable that the (g) citric acid ester is selected from the group consisting of triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, triethyl acetyl citrate, tributyl acetyl citrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetyl citrate, and a mixture thereof, more preferably the group consisting of triethyl citrate, tributyl, triethyl acetylcitrate, tributyl acetylcitrate, and a mixture thereof, and even more preferably ethyl citrate.
[0287] The amount of the (g) citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0288] The amount of the (g) citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the (b) citric acid ester(s) is not zero.
[0289] The amount of the (g) citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0290] (Cosmetic active ingredient)
[0291] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of the cosmetic active ingredient may be used, but two or more different types of the cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.
[0292] The cosmetic active ingredient may preferably be insoluble in water or in oil.
[0293] The amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0294] The amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient is not zero.
[0295] The amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0296] (Surfactant)
[0297] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional surfactant which is different from the (e) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. If two ten- additional active ingredients are used, they can be the same or different.
[0298] However, it may be preferable that the amount of additional surfactant is low.
[0299] The amount of additional surfactant may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise additional surfactant.
[0300] (Other ingredients)
[0301] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one optional or additional ingredient.
[0302] The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0303] The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers; organic or inorganic UV filters; peptides and their derivatives; protein hydrolysates; bulking agents; penetrating agents; thickeners; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; vitamins or provitamins; perfumes; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers and mixtures thereof.
[0304] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol, and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.
[0305] The organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0306] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be regulated. The pH can be, for example, from 3 to 11, preferably from 3.5 to 9, and more preferably from 4 to 7. The pH can be adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basifying agent.
[0307] The acidifying agents may be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acid, for example example tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.
[0308] The basifying agent may be, for example, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxide, alkaline earth metal hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamines, and also their derivatives, preferably sodium or potassium hydroxide and compounds of the formula below: Rt R— R2 R4
[0309] in which
[0310] R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Rb R2, R1 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine may be preferred.
[0311] The acidifying or basifying agent may be present in an amount ranging from less than 5% by weight, preferably 1% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0312] (Shape)
[0313] The composition according to the present invention may have two visually distinct phases. One of the two phases is an oily phase and the other is an aqueous phase.
[0314] The amount of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 8% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 12% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0315] The amount of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the oily phase is not zero.
[0316] The amount of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 8% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 12% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0317] The oily phase comprises (a) at least one oil as explained above.
[0318] The amount of (a) at least one oil in the oily phase may be 75% by weight or more, preferably 80% by weight or more, and more preferably 85% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
[0319] The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0320] The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the oily phase is not zero.
[0321] The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0322] The aqueous phase comprises (b) at least one aromatic ketone compound, (c) at least one polyhydroxy acid or salt thereof, and (d) water.
[0323] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 85% by weight or more, preferably 90% by weight or more, and more preferably 95% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0324] Additionally, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one additional hydrophilic ingredient. In one embodiment, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one pH adjuster such as an acid and a base, and / or at least one organic solvent such as a diol.
[0325] The composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed. The composition according to the present invention after mixing can be of the O / W or W / O type, preferably in the form of an O / W or W / O liquid composition, and more preferably in the form of an O / W or W / O emulsion.
[0326] If the density of the oily phase is lower than that of the aqueous phase, the oily phase is present on the aqueous phase, in the composition according to the present invention. Typically, the oily phase is present on the aqueous phase, at rest, because the density of oil tends to be lower than that of water.
[0327] [Preparation]
[0328] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by:
[0329] forming an oil phase by providing (a) at least one oil or mixture (a) of at least one oil and the other ingredients for the oil phase;
[0330] forming an aqueous phase by mixing (b) at least one aromatic ketone compound, (c) at least one polyhydroxy acid or salt thereof, and (d) water, for the aqueous phase; and
[0331] the combination of the oily phase and the aqueous phase.
[0332] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by the process comprising:
[0333] (i) the supply or mixing
[0334] (a) at least one oil;
[0335] with at least one optional ingredient to form an oil phase;
[0336] (ii) the mixture
[0337] (b) at least one aromatic ketone compound;
[0338] (c) at least one polyhydroxyacid or a salt thereof; and
[0339] (d) water
[0340] with at least one optional ingredient to form an aqueous phase; and
[0341] (iii) the combination of the oily phase and the aqueous phase.
[0342] The mixing step can be carried out by any conventional means.
[0343] It is preferable that the step of combining the oil phase and the aqueous phase is carried out gently so that the oil phase and the aqueous phase are slowly poured into a container such as a container.
[0344] [Use and process]
[0345] When using the composition according to the present invention, it will be mixed, for example, by stirring with the hands (manual stirring). After mixing the composition according to the present invention, the composition can form a single-phase composition. The single-phase composition can be applied to a keratinous substance to achieve target cosmetic effects.
[0346] The keratinous substance may be skin, nails, mucous membranes such as the lips, or keratinous fibers such as the eyebrows and eyelashes.
[0347] The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition, more preferably as a cleansing cosmetic composition, and even more preferably as a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin and eyelashes.
[0348] The skin here includes the skin of the face, the skin of the neck and the scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as the lips.
[0349] The composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects such as makeup removal.
[0350] The composition according to the present invention is comfortable because it is less irritating, and is gentle to the skin, particularly sensitive skin such as the skin around the eyes.
[0351] The composition according to the present invention could also provide a good texture such as a smooth feel, and therefore, it could provide a smooth finish for the skin.
[0352] The composition according to the present invention can be used as is (as a topical product), or can be used by being impregnated in a porous substrate such as a non-woven fabric preferably made from cellulose fibers such as cotton.
[0353] In particular, the composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin, lips, eyelashes and eyelashes. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be used for a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as the skin, lips, eyebrows and eyelashes, preferably the skin and eyelashes.
[0354] The composition according to the present invention may be used for the care or cleansing, and not for makeup, of a keratinous substance. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is used for skin care products such as a lotion or cleansing products such as a makeup remover, and not for makeup products such as a foundation. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise iron oxide, or comprises iron oxide in an amount of 0.5% by weight or less, preferably 0.2% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0355] The cosmetic process for a keratinous substance according to the present invention may comprise, at least, the steps of
[0356] mixing the composition according to the present invention to form a single-phase composition; and
[0357] application of the single-phase composition to the keratinous substance.
[0358] The single-phase composition does not have two visually distinct phases. Instead, the single-phase composition has a single phase that is generally an emulsion phase. The emulsion phase may not be transparent, but it may be translucent or opaque.
[0359] The present invention may relate to the use
[0360] (b) at least one aromatic ketone compound, and
[0361] (c) at least one polyhydroxy acid or a salt thereof;
[0362] in a two-phase composition comprising an aqueous phase comprising (d) water and an oily phase comprising (a) oil, in order to make the composition less irritating, in particular less irritating to the skin around the eyes.
[0363] The present invention may also relate to the use
[0364] (b) at least one aromatic ketone compound, and
[0365] (c) at least one polyhydroxy acid or a salt thereof;
[0366] in a two-phase composition comprising an aqueous phase comprising (d) water and an oily phase comprising (a) oil, in order to stabilize the composition and / or in order to cause the composition to reform an oily phase and an aqueous phase without forming droplets in one or both phases after mixing of the two-phase composition. EXAMPLES
[0367] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1]
[0368] The following compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows.
[0369] (1) mixing the ingredients of the oil phase preparation (OP preparation in Table 1) at about 25°C to form a uniform mixture of the oil phase ingredients;
[0370] (2) mixing the ingredients of the aqueous phase preparation (AP preparation in Table 1) at about 60°C to form a uniform mixture of the aqueous phase ingredients; and
[0371] (3) pouring the above into a package in the order of mixing the in aqueous phase ingredients, then the mixture of oil phase ingredients.
[0372] The mixing weight ratio of oil phase preparation:aqueous phase preparation was 15:85 for Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1, as shown in "OP / AP Weight Ratio" in Table 1.
[0373] It should be noted that “hydroxyacetophenone” means 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0374] The numerical values of the quantities of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
[0375] [Tables 1] Preparation OP Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. Comp. 1 Isohexadecane 5.21 5.21 5.21 Isododecane 3.75 3.75 3.75 Dicaprylyl ether 1.65 1.65 1.65 Isopropyl myristate 2.39 2.39 2.39 Triethyl citrate 2.00 2.00 2.00 Preparation AP Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.064 0.064 0.064 Polyglyceryl-6 caprate 0.03 0.03 0.03 Polyglyceryl-6 caprate 0.03 0.03 0.03 Gluconolactone 0.43 0.13 - Hydroxyacetophenone 0.06 0.06 0.06 Phenoxyethanol 0.06 0.06 0.06 Caprylyl Glycol 0.06 0.06 0.06 Myr-trimonium bromide 0.06 0.06 0.06 Citric acid 0.07 0.07 0.07 Sodium citrate 0.31 0.31 0.31 Sodium chloride 0.38 0.38 0.38 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Weight ratio OP / AP 15 / 85 15 / 85 15 / 85 Eye discomfort Number of panelists who experienced a marked stinging of the eyes 0 0 1 Number of panelists who experienced a slight stinging of the eyes 2 0 2 Number of panelists who experienced a marked itching of the eyes 0 0 0 Number of panelists who experienced a slight itching of the eyes 0 0 4 Number of panelists whose eyes became markedly reddish 0 0 0 Number of panelists whose eyes became markedly reddish 0 0 0 Skin discomfort Number of panelists who experienced a marked stinging of the skin 0 0 1 Number of panelists who experienced a slight stinging of the skin 0 1 5 Number of panelists who experienced a marked itching of the skin 0 0 0 Number of panelists who experienced a slight itching of the skin 1 1 1 Waterproof mascara removal capacity 63.1% 63.5% 63.8% Capacity latex mascara removal 73.8% 75.8% 71.9% Droplets on the wall Very good Very good Very good Storage stability Very good Very good Very good
[0376] OP: Oily phase
[0377] AP: Aqueous phase
[0378] [Evaluation]
[0379] The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 were evaluated as follows.
[0380] (Eye discomfort)
[0381] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 was stirred to form an emulsion. Using a cotton sheet, 4 ml of emulsion was applied to the skin around the eyes of 10 panelists by massaging with a circular motion of the cotton sheet around the eyes for 30 seconds.
[0382] The 10 panelists evaluated the ocular discomfort during the above application.
[0383] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0384] (Skin discomfort)
[0385] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 was stirred to form an emulsion. Using a cotton sheet, 4 ml of emulsion was applied to the skin around the eyes of 10 panelists by massaging with a circular motion of the cotton sheet around the eyes for 30 seconds.
[0386] The 10 panelists rated skin discomfort during the above application.
[0387] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0388] (Waterproof mascara removal capacity)
[0389] A waterproof mascara product (MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Volum'Express Hypercurl Waterproof N 01 Black) was applied to the false eyelashes using a brush in a total of 30 strokes (each time, the brush was dipped into a bottle containing the mascara product). Five minutes later, the above application with 30 strokes was performed again. Then, the mascara on the false eyelashes was dried at 40 °C for 30 minutes. The weight of the false eyelashes with the mascara was measured. The weight of mascara applied to the false eyelashes was determined by subtracting the weight of the original eyelashes without the mascara from the weight of the false eyelashes with the mascara.
[0390] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 was stirred to form an emulsion. 4 ml of the emulsion was absorbed by 1 g of a cotton sheet. The cotton sheet was applied to the false eyelashes, and moved along the false eyelashes to remove the mascara from the false eyelashes using an instrument (Tribo-Master TL201Sa) under the following conditions:
[0391] Load: 450 g,
[0392] Travel distance: 30 mm,
[0393] Speed: 1200 mm / minute, and
[0394] Number of repetitions: 40.
[0395] The false eyelashes were dried, and their weight was measured. The amount of mascara removed was determined by subtracting the weight of the false eyelashes after the above removal operation from the weight of the false eyelashes with mascara before the above removal operation.
[0396] The removal capacity (%) was calculated by the following formula:
[0397] weight of mascara removed / weight of mascara applied x 100
[0398] The results are shown in the row "Water-resistant mascara removal capacity" in Table 1.
[0399] (Latex mascara removal capacity)
[0400] The above protocol for the above waterproof mascara product was repeated provided that the waterproof mascara was replaced with a latex mascara (MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Lashionista Care+).
[0401] The results are shown in the "Latex Mascara Removal Capacity" row in Table 1.
[0402] (Droplets on the wall)
[0403] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 was stirred in a transparent glass container to form an emulsion. The formation of droplets on the wall of the transparent glass container was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0404] Very good: No droplets are observed on the wall.
[0405] Good: A few droplets can be seen on the wall, but they are very few in number.
[0406] Correct: A few droplets can be observed on the wall.
[0407] Bad: Groups of droplets can be observed in density on the wall.
[0408] The results are shown in the line "Droplets on the wall" in Table 1.
[0409] (Storage stability)
[0410] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 1 was taken into a transparent container and kept for 2 months at room temperature. After 2 months, the appearance of the oily and aqueous phases was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0411] Very good: Both the oil and aqueous phases are transparent.
[0412] Good: The oil and aqueous phases are slightly translucent, but no emulsion phase between the oil and aqueous phases.
[0413] Correct: There is a thin layer of emulsion between the oil and water phases.
[0414] Bad: There is an emulsion phase between the oil and aqueous phases.
[0415] The results are shown in the “Storage Stability” row in Table 1.
[0416] (Summary)
[0417] The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 which included ingredient (c) (polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone) were less irritating than the composition according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include ingredient (c).
[0418] The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were a stable two-phase composition capable of being transformed into a single-phase composition by mixing when in use, wherein the single-phase composition can provide good makeup removing effects, without discomfort, and can neatly revert to a two-phase composition when not in use. [Example 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4]
[0419] The following compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 shown in Table 2 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2 as follows.
[0420] (1) mixing the ingredients of the oil phase preparation (OP preparation in Table 2) at about 25°C to form a uniform mixture of the oil phase ingredients;
[0421] (2) mixing the ingredients of the aqueous phase preparation (AP preparation in Table 2) at about 60°C to form a uniform mixture of the aqueous phase ingredients; and
[0422] (3) pouring the above into a package in the order of mixing the in aqueous phase ingredients, then the mixture of oil phase ingredients.
[0423] The mixing weight ratio of oil phase preparation:aqueous phase preparation was 15:85 for Example 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4, as shown in “OP / AP Weight Ratio” in Table 2.
[0424] It should be noted that “hydroxyacetophenone” means 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0425] The numerical values of the quantities of the ingredients shown in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" of active raw materials.
[0426] [Tables2] Preparation OP Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp. 4 Isohexadecane 5.21 5.21 5.21 5.21 Isododecane 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 Dicaprylyl ether 1.65 1.65 1.65 1.65 Isopropyl myristate 2.39 2.39 2.39 2.39 Triethyl citrate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Preparation AP Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.064 0.064 0.064 0.064 Polyglyceryl-6 caprate 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Polyglyceryl-6 caprate 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Gluconolactone 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 Hydroxyacetophenone e 0.06 - - - Phenoxyethanol - 0.20 - - Caprylyl Glycol - - 0.20 - Butylene glycol - - - 0.20 Myr-trimonium bromide 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 Citric acid 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 Sodium citrate 0.31 0.31 0.31 0.31 Sodium chloride 0.38 0.38 0.38 0.38 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Weight ratio OP / AP 15 / 85 15 / 85 15 / 85 15 / 85 Eye discomfort Good Bad Bad Bad Skin discomfort Very good Very good Very good Very good Droplets on the wall Very good Very good Very good Very good Storage stability Very good Very good Very good Very good
[0427] OP: Oily phase
[0428] AP: Aqueous phase
[0429] [Evaluation]
[0430] The compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 were evaluated as follows. [0431 ] (Eye discomfort)
[0432] Each of the compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 was stirred to form an emulsion. Using a cotton sheet, 4 ml of emulsion was applied to the skin around the eyes of 5 panelists by massaging with a circular motion of the cotton sheet around the eyes for 30 seconds.
[0433] The 5 panelists rated the ocular discomfort during the above application with a grade from 1 (very poor) to 5 (excellent), and the average of the ratings was classified according to the following criteria.
[0434] Excellent (5.0 to 4.0): No discomfort
[0435] Good (3.9 to 3.0): Little discomfort
[0436] Bad (2.9 to 2.0): Slight discomfort
[0437] Very bad (1.9 to 1.0): Clear discomfort
[0438] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0439] (Skin discomfort)
[0440] Each of the compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 was stirred to form an emulsion. Using a cotton sheet, 4 ml of emulsion was applied to the skin around the eyes of 5 panelists by massaging with a circular motion of the cotton sheet around the eyes for 30 seconds.
[0441] The 5 panelists rated skin discomfort during the above application with a grade of 1 (very poor) to 5 (excellent), and the average of the ratings was ranked according to the following criteria.
[0442] Excellent (5.0 to 4.0): No discomfort
[0443] Good (3.9 to 3.0): Little discomfort
[0444] Bad (2.9 to 2.0): Slight discomfort
[0445] Very bad (1.9 to 1.0): Clear discomfort
[0446] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0447] (Droplets on the wall)
[0448] Each of the compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 was stirred in a transparent glass container to form an emulsion. The formation of droplets on the wall of the transparent glass container was observed vi- ually and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0449] Very good: No droplets are observed on the wall.
[0450] Good: A few droplets can be seen on the wall, but they are very few in number.
[0451] Correct: A few droplets can be observed on the wall.
[0452] Bad: Groups of droplets can be observed in density on the wall.
[0453] The results are shown in the row “Droplets on the wall” in Table 2.
[0454] (Storage stability)
[0455] Each of the compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 was taken into a transparent container and kept for 2 months at room temperature. After 2 months, the appearance of the oily and aqueous phases was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0456] Very good: Both the oil and aqueous phases are transparent.
[0457] Good: The oil and aqueous phases are slightly translucent, but no emulsion phase between the oil and aqueous phases.
[0458] Correct: There is a thin layer of emulsion between the oil and water phases.
[0459] Bad: There is an emulsion phase between the oil and aqueous phases.
[0460] The results are shown in the “Storage Stability” row in Table 2.
[0461] (Summary)
[0462] The composition according to Example 3 which included ingredient (b) (aromatic ketone compound) was less irritating than the composition according to Comparative Examples 2 to 4 which did not include ingredient (b).
[0463] The compositions according to Example 3 were a stable two-phase composition which can be transformed into a single-phase composition by mixing when in use, wherein the single-phase composition can provide good makeup removal effects, without discomfort, and can neatly return to a two-phase composition when not in use.
[0464] [Example 4 and Comparative Example 5]
[0465] The following compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 shown in Table 3 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3 as follows.
[0466] (1) mixing the ingredients of the oil phase preparation (OP preparation in Table 3) at about 25°C to form a uniform mixture of the oil phase ingredients;
[0467] (2) mixing the ingredients of the aqueous phase preparation (AP preparation in Table 3) at about 60°C to form a uniform mixture of the aqueous phase ingredients; and
[0468] (3) pouring the above into a package in the order of mixing the in- aqueous phase ingredients, then the mixture of oil phase ingredients.
[0469] The mixing weight ratio of oil phase preparation:aqueous phase preparation was 15:85 for Example 4 and Comparative Example 5, as shown in “OP / AP Weight Ratio” in Table 3.
[0470] It should be noted that “hydroxyacetophenone” means 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0471] The numerical values of the ingredient quantities shown in Table 3 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
[0472] [Tables3] Ex. 4 Ex. Comp. 5 Preparation OP Isohexadecane 5.21 5.21 Isododecane 3.75 3.75 Dicaprylyl ether 1.65 1.65 Isopropyl myristate 2.39 2.39 Triethyl citrate 2.00 2.00 Preparation AP Hydroxy ethyl Icellulo se 0.064 0.064 Polyglyceryl-6 caprate 0.03 - Polyglyceryl-6 caprate 0.03 - Gluconolactone 0.13 0.13 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.06 0.06 Myrtrimonium bromide 0.06 0.06 Citric acid 0.07 0.07 Sodium citrate 0.31 0.31 Sodium chloride 0.38 0.38 Water qs 100 qs 100 Weight ratio OP / AP 15 / 85 15 / 85 Eye discomfort Good Good Skin discomfort Good Good Droplets on the wall Very good Poor Storage stability Very good Poor Separation speed Good Poor
[0473] OP: Oily phase
[0474] AP: Aqueous phase
[0475] [Evaluations]
[0476] The compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 were evaluated as follows.
[0477] (Eye discomfort)
[0478] Each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 was stirred to form an emulsion. Using a cotton sheet, 4 ml of emulsion was applied to the skin around the eyes of 5 panelists by massaging with a circular motion of the cotton sheet around the eyes for 30 seconds.
[0479] The 5 panelists rated the ocular discomfort during the above application with a grade from 1 (very poor) to 5 (excellent), and the average of the ratings was classified according to the following criteria.
[0480] Excellent (5.0 to 4.0): No discomfort
[0481] Good (3.9 to 3.0): Little discomfort
[0482] Bad (2.9 to 2.0): Slight discomfort
[0483] Very bad (1.9 to 1.0): Clear discomfort
[0484] The results are shown in Table 3.
[0485] (Skin discomfort)
[0486] Each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 was stirred to form an emulsion. Using a cotton sheet, 4 ml of emulsion was applied to the skin around the eyes of 5 panelists by massaging with a circular motion of the cotton sheet around the eyes for 30 seconds.
[0487] The 5 panelists rated skin discomfort during the above application with a grade of 1 (very poor) to 5 (excellent), and the average of the ratings was classified according to the following criteria.
[0488] Excellent (5.0 to 4.0): No discomfort
[0489] Good (3.9 to 3.0): Little discomfort
[0490] Bad (2.9 to 2.0): Slight discomfort
[0491] Very bad (1.9 to 1.0): Clear discomfort
[0492] The results are shown in Table 3.
[0493] (Droplets on the wall)
[0494] Each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 was stirred in a transparent glass container to form an emulsion. The formation of droplets on the wall of the transparent glass container was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0495] Very good: No droplets are observed on the wall.
[0496] Good: A few droplets can be seen on the wall, but they are very few in number.
[0497] Correct: A few droplets can be observed on the wall.
[0498] Bad: Groups of droplets can be observed in density on the wall.
[0499] The results are shown in the row “Droplets on the wall” in Table 3.
[0500] (Storage stability)
[0501] Each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 was taken into a transparent container and kept for 2 months at room temperature. After 2 months, the appearance of the oily and aqueous phases was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0502] Very good: Both the oil and aqueous phases are transparent.
[0503] Good: The oil and aqueous phases are slightly translucent, but no emulsion phase between the oil and aqueous phases.
[0504] Correct: There is a thin emulsion layer between the oil and aqueous phases
[0505] Incorrect: There is an emulsion phase between the oil and aqueous phases
[0506] The results are shown in the "Storage Stability" row in Table 3.
[0507] (Separation Rate)
[0508] Each of the compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 5 was stirred in a transparent glass container to form an emulsion. The rate for the emulsion to reform two phases was measured and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0509] Good: moderate
[0510] Correct: fast but acceptable
[0511] Bad: too fast
[0512] The results are shown in the “Separation Rate” row in Table 3.
[0513] (Summary)
[0514] The composition according to Example 4 which included ingredient (e) (poly-glyceryl ester of fatty acid) was stable and non-irritating, and was capable of providing a clean appearance and an appropriate separation speed.
[0515] The composition according to Comparative Example 5 which did not include ingredient (e) was not stable and could not provide a clean appearance and good separation speed.
Claims
Claims
1. A two-phase composition comprising an oil phase comprising (a) at least one oil, and an aqueous phase comprising: (b) at least one aromatic ketone compound represented by the following chemical formula (I) K. C—O R? wherein R5, R6 and R7, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 alkoxy group, provided that at least one of R5, R6 and R7 represents a hydroxyl group, and R represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or an aryl group; (c) at least one polyhydroxy acid or a salt thereof; (d) water; and (e) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is capable of transforming into a single-phase composition.
3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the single-phase composition is capable of transforming into a two-phase composition.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a) oil is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably isohexadecane, isododecane, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl myristate and a mixture thereof.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein R in chemical formula (I) represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a group methyl or a phenyl group, and more preferably a methyl group.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the (b) aromatic ketone compound is hydroxyacetophenone, preferably monohydroxyacetophenone, and more preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) polyhydroxy acid is in the form of a lactone.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises (e) two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, preferably selected from C4-C14 fatty acid polyglyceryl mono and diesters, and more preferably a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate and polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate.
10. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance, comprising: mixing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to form a single-phase composition; and applying the single-phase composition to the keratinous substance.