Method of manufacturing cosmetic compositions comprising sucrose esters and solvents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition, the method comprising the step of preparing a mixture of: (a) one or more esters of sucrose and a fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and wherein the sucrose ester is selected from the group consisting of mono-esters, di-esters, tri-esters, tetra-esters, and mixtures thereof; and (b) one or more solvents selected from those having a Hildebrand solubility parameter of from about 23 to about 31.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 and a polar component of the Hansen solubility parameter of from about 4.5 to about 10.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 . By the method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition of the present invention, the sucrose ester can be dissolved in the cosmetic composition even when the sucrose ester is included in the composition in a higher content and / or even when the sucrose ester is included in an aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition, the process comprising the step of preparing a mixture of: (a) one or more esters of sucrose and a fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and wherein the sucrose ester is selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and mixtures thereof; and (b) one or more solvents selected from those having a Hildebrand solubility parameter of from about 23 to about 31.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 and a polar component of the Hansen solubility parameter of from about 4.5 to about 10.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 By the process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition of the present invention, sucrose esters can be dissolved in the cosmetic composition even when the sucrose ester is included in the composition in higher amounts and / or even when the sucrose ester is included in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition. BACKGROUND

[0002] Mammalian keratinous tissue, particularly human skin, is subject to a variety of insults both from external and internal factors. Such external factors include ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, wind, heat, infrared radiation, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like. Internal factors, on the other hand, include chronological aging and other biochemical changes within the skin. Whether external or internal, these factors result in visible signs of skin damage. Typical signs of skin damage in aged or damaged skin include fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, sallowness, sagging, dark circles under the eyes, puffy eyes, enlarged pores, decreased rate of turnover, and abnormal desquamation or exfoliation. Additional damage caused by both external and internal factors include visible dead skin, i.e., flaky exfoliation, scaling, dryness, and roughness.

[0003] At present, there are many consumer available personal care products that are designed to improve the health and physical appearance of keratinous tissue, such as skin, hair, and nails. Most of these products are directed to retarding, minimizing, or even eliminating skin wrinkles, blemishes, and other histological changes commonly associated with skin aging or environmental damage to human skin. Consumers prefer products that are applied topically because they are not only effective, but also safe and pleasant to use.

[0004] A variety of ingredients are used in such products to deliver the above-mentioned benefits. The present inventors have found that one of such ingredients, namely sucrose esters, can be difficult to dissolve in the product composition, especially when the sucrose ester is included in the product composition in higher amounts and / or especially when the sucrose ester is included in the aqueous phase of the product composition. It has also been found that it can be preferred to dissolve the sucrose ester in the aqueous phase of the product composition rather than in the oil phase, taking into account providing a fresh / refreshing feel from the composition while providing the benefits from the sucrose ester.

[0005] Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition which dissolves sucrose esters in the cosmetic composition, especially when the sucrose ester is included in the composition in higher amounts and / or especially when the sucrose ester is included in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition. There can also be a need for a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition wherein the manufactured cosmetic composition provides the benefits from the sucrose ester while providing a fresh / refreshing feel from the composition. SUMMARY

[0006] The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition, the method comprising the step of preparing a mixture of:

[0007] (a) one or more esters of sucrose and a fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and wherein the sucrose ester is selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and mixtures thereof; and

[0008] (b) one or more solvents selected from those having a Hildebrand solubility parameter of from about 23 to about 31.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 and a polar component of the Hansen solubility parameter of from about 4.5 to about 10.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 .

[0009] It has now surprisingly been found that by the method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition of the present invention, sucrose esters can be dissolved in the cosmetic composition even when the sucrose ester is included in the composition in higher amounts and / or even when the sucrose ester is included in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition.

[0010] Without being limited by theory, it is believed that by the method, a majority of the sucrose ester is included in the aqueous phase of the composition when the composition contains an aqueous carrier. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that such compositions provide a sensory feel of refreshment, non-greasy, and / or fresh feel from the composition while providing the benefits from the sucrose ester. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0011] References in the specification to "embodiment" or similar terms mean that a particular material, feature, structure, and / or characteristic being described is included in at least one embodiment, optionally, in multiple embodiments, but not necessarily all embodiments. Moreover, the materials, features, structures, and / or characteristics can be combined in any suitable manner in different embodiments and the materials, features, structures, and / or characteristics can be omitted or substituted for any suitable arrangements, so not all embodiments are necessarily included or combined. Therefore, although not explicitly described or claimed, any steps or components of the embodiments described herein can be combined or omitted in any suitable manner.

[0012] In all embodiments, all ingredient percentages are by weight of the cosmetic composition, unless otherwise specifically stated. All ratios are weight ratios, unless otherwise specifically stated. The number of significant digits conveys neither limitations on the indicated amounts nor limitations on the accuracy of the measurements. All numerical values should be understood to be modified in all instances by the term "about," unless otherwise specifically noted. All measurements are understood to be made at about 25 °C and at ambient conditions, unless otherwise designated. By "ambient conditions" is meant conditions under about 1 atmosphere of pressure and about 50% relative humidity. All ranges are inclusive and combinable, unless otherwise specifically stated. For example, the recitation of a range of values is merely intended to provide an understanding of the upper and lower values, with the intention that intermediate values are to be considered as falling within the range.

[0013] The compositions of the present application can include, consist essentially of, or consist of the essential components described herein, and optional ingredients. As used herein, "consisting essentially of means that the composition or component can include additional ingredients not named herein so long as the essential characteristics and novel features of the claimed composition or method are not changed in any way. As used in the specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an" and "the" are intended to include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.

[0014] Definitions

[0015] "About" modifies a recited value to mean + / - 20% of the recited value (e.g., less than 15%, 10%, or even less than 5%) of the range of values.

[0016] "Apply" or "application" as used in reference to a composition means to apply or spread the composition of the present application to the surface of human skin, such as the epidermis.

[0017] By "derivative" herein is meant an amide, ether, ester, amino, carboxyl, acetyl, and / or alcohol derivative of a given compound.

[0018] "Effective amount" means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive benefit to keratinous tissue over a period of time during which processing takes place. Positive benefits can be health, appearance, and / or feel benefits including the benefits disclosed herein, alone or in combination.

[0019] "Cosmetic agent" means any substance and any component thereof intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed, introduced into, or otherwise applied to a mammal's body or any part thereof, with the intent of changing the appearance of the mammal's body or any part thereof, and which is not a drug as defined in 21 C.F.R. § 330.1(a). A cosmetic agent can include substances generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, food additives, and materials used in non-cosmetic consumer products, including non-prescription drugs.

[0020] "Cosmetic composition" means a composition comprising a cosmetic agent. Examples of cosmetic compositions include color cosmetics (e.g., foundations, lipsticks, concealers, and mascaras), skin care compositions (e.g., moisturizers and sunscreens), personal care compositions (e.g., rinse-off and leave-on body washes and soaps), hair care compositions (e.g., shampoos and conditioners).

[0021] "Skin care" means to regulate and / or improve the condition of skin (e.g., skin health, appearance, or texture / feel). Some non-limiting examples of improving the condition of skin include improving the appearance and / or feel of skin by providing a smoother, more even appearance and / or feel; increasing the thickness of one or more layers of skin; improving the elasticity or resiliency of skin; improving the firmness of skin; and reducing the oily, shiny, and / or matte appearance of skin, improving the hydration or moisturization status of skin, improving the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles, improving skin peeling or desquamation, plumping skin, improving skin barrier properties, improving skin tone, reducing the appearance of redness or skin splotching, and / or improving the radiance, glow, or translucency of skin.

[0022] "Skin care active" means a compound or combination of compounds that, when applied to the skin, provides an immediate and / or long-lasting benefit to the skin or cell types normally found therein. Skin care actives can regulate and / or improve the skin or its associated cells (e.g., improve skin elasticity, hydration, skin barrier function, and / or improve cell metabolism).

[0023] "Skin care composition" means a composition comprising a skin care active and regulating and / or improving the condition of skin.

[0024] "Synergy" and variations thereof means an effect provided by the combination of two or more materials that is greater than the expected additive effect of those materials.

[0025] As used herein, "treatment period" refers to the length of time and / or frequency of application of a material or composition to a target skin surface.

[0026] Method of manufacture

[0027] The method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition comprises the steps of:

[0028] mixing the following:

[0029] (a) one or more esters of sucrose and a fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and wherein the sucrose ester is selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, triesters, and tetraesters, and mixtures thereof;

[0030] (b) one or more solvents selected from those having a Hildebrand solubility parameter of from about 23 to about 31.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 and a polar component of the Hansen solubility parameter of from about 4.5 to about 10.5 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 .

[0031] The mixture preferably comprises, in view of dissolving the sucrose ester, from about 70% to about 100%, more preferably from about 80% to about 100%, still more preferably from about 90% to about 100%, by weight of the mixture, of the sum of sucrose ester and solvent.

[0032] In the mixture, the weight ratio between sucrose ester and solvent, in view of dissolving the sucrose ester, is preferably from about 1 : 1000 to about 1000: 1, more preferably from about 1 : 100 to about 100: 1, still more preferably from about 10: 1 to about 1 : 10, even more preferably from about 5: 1 to 1 : 5, further more preferably from about 2.5: 1 to 1 : 2.5. In another embodiment, the weight ratio between sucrose ester and solvent, in view of dissolving the sucrose ester, is from about 2.5: 1 to about 1 : 10, preferably from about 2.5: 1 to about 1 : 5.

[0033] The method preferably further comprises the step of mixing the mixture and an aqueous carrier. The weight ratio between the aqueous carrier and the mixture is preferably from about 1000: 1 to about 1 : 1000, more preferably from about 1 : 100 to about 100: 1, still more preferably from about 1 : 10 to about 10: 1, even more preferably from about 5: 1 to about 1 : 5, further more preferably from about 2: 1 to about 1 : 5. The addition of the aqueous carrier to the mixture can provide improved solubility of the sucrose ester. Too much aqueous carrier can result in reduced transparency / translucency and / or reduced solubility of the sucrose ester, and too little aqueous carrier can result in no such improved solubility of the sucrose ester being seen.

[0034] The step of mixing the aqueous carrier and the mixture can include two sub-steps, a first dilution and a second dilution. The first dilution is dilution of the mixture with the aqueous carrier. The second dilution is dilution of the diluted mixture resulting from the first dilution to make the final product formulation of the cosmetic composition. In the second dilution, the diluent can be any material included in the cosmetic composition including, but not limited to, the aqueous carrier. In the first dilution, the weight ratio between the aqueous carrier and the mixture is preferably in the range of about 1 : 10 to about 10: 1, more preferably about 5: 1 to about 1 : 5, still more preferably about 2: 1 to about 1 : 5. In the second dilution to make the final cosmetic composition, the diluent and any other ingredients are added to the cosmetic composition in an amount up to 100%. In the second dilution, the other ingredients, such as thickening agents, humectants, surfactants, pigments, powders, oils, are added simultaneously and in sequence, if included.

[0035] Sucrose ester

[0036] Suitable for use herein are sucrose esters which are esters of sucrose and fatty acids, wherein the fatty acids are selected from those having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, and wherein the sucrose ester is selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acids are selected from those having saturated alkyl groups containing the above recited number of carbon atoms.

[0037] Preferably, the sucrose ester is included in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 50%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 35%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 25%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 20%.

[0038] Preferably, the sucrose ester suitable for use herein contains from about 10% to about 100%, preferably from about 20% to about 100%, more preferably from about 50% to about 90% of higher esters selected from the group consisting of diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0039] In some cases, the sucrose ester can be a blend of two or more sucrose esters, where the two or more sucrose esters are present in a ratio of any one sucrose ester to another sucrose ester of 1 : 10 to 1 : 1 (e.g., 1 : 7, 1 : 5, 1 : 3, or 1 : 2). In some cases, the sucrose ester can be a blend of sucrose laurate and sucrose dilaurate, where the sucrose laurate is present at 50% to 80% by weight of the sucrose ester, and the sucrose dilaurate is present at 20% to 45% by weight of the sucrose ester. Alternatively, the sucrose ester can be a blend of sucrose laurate, sucrose dilaurate, and sucrose trilaurate, where the sucrose dilaurate is present at 35% or more by weight of the sucrose ester. A particularly suitable example of a sucrose ester for use herein is sucrose dilaurate BC 10034, available from BASF.

[0040] Solvent

[0041] Solvents useful herein are those selected from the group consisting of those having a Hildebrand solubility parameter of from about 23 to about 31.5, preferably from about 23 to about 29 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 and a polar component of the Hansen solubility parameter of from about 4.5 to about 10.5, preferably from about 5 to about 9, more preferably from about 5.5 to about 8 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 .

[0042] One of the above solvents or a mixture of some of the above solvents can be used, provided that each solvent meets the above parameters. Such solvents include, for example, the following materials in the table below:

[0043]

[0044] Among these, pentylene glycol is highly preferred in view of the balance between improving the solubility of the sucrose ester and minimizing skin irritation.

[0045] The solvent can be included in the cosmetic composition at a level of from about 0.01% to about 90%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 30%.

[0046] The following are for reference purposes only and the Hildebrand solubility parameters and polar components of the Hansen solubility parameters for ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions but not solvents as defined herein:

[0047]

[0048] Aqueous carrier

[0049] Aqueous carriers useful herein are those that do not include solvents as defined above. Preferably, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water from natural sources containing mineral cations can also be used depending on the desired characteristics of the product.

[0050] In one embodiment, the aqueous carrier can be present at a level of from about 50% to about 99%, preferably from about 60% to about 98%, more preferably from about 70% to about 98%, still more preferably from about 80% to about 95%, by weight of the composition.

[0051] Cosmetic composition

[0052] The cosmetic compositions herein are intended for topical application to human skin and contain a sucrose ester and a solvent, and preferably also an aqueous carrier. The compositions herein can optionally comprise one or more additional skin active materials or other types of ingredients commonly included in topical cosmetic compositions.

[0053] The cosmetic compositions herein can be a cosmetic composition, a pharmaceutical composition, or a cosmeceutical composition, and can be provided in a variety of product forms, including but not limited to solutions, suspensions, emulsions, creams, gels, toners, sticks, sprays, aerosols, ointments, cleansing liquid washes and solid bars, pastes, foams, mousses, shaving creams, wipes, strips, patches, electrically powered patches, hydrogels, film-forming products, facial and skin masks (with and without insoluble sheeting), cosmetics such as foundations, eye liners, and eye shadows, and the like. In some cases, the composition form can be consistent with the particular dermatologically acceptable carrier selected. For example, the composition (and carrier) can be provided in the form of an emulsion (e.g., water-in-oil, oil-in-water, or water-in-oil-in-water) or an aqueous dispersion. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the present application are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0054] Dermatologically acceptable carrier

[0055] The compositions disclosed herein can include a dermatologically acceptable carrier (which can be referred to as a "carrier"). The phrase "dermatologically acceptable carrier" means that the carrier is suitable for topical application to keratinous tissue, has good aesthetic properties, is compatible with the active materials in the composition, and does not pose any unreasonable safety or toxicity problems. In one embodiment, the carrier is present at a level of from about 50% to about 99%, from about 60% to about 98%, from about 70% to about 98%, or alternatively from about 80% to about 95%, by weight.

[0056] The carrier can be in a variety of forms. In some cases, the solubility or dispersibility of the components (e.g., extract, sunscreen active, additional components) can dictate the form and characteristics of the carrier. Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (e.g., aqueous or non-aqueous), dispersions, emulsions, and solid forms (e.g., gels, sticks, flowable solids, or amorphous materials). In some cases, the dermatologically acceptable carrier is in the form of an emulsion. The emulsion can have a continuous aqueous phase (e.g., oil-in-water or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion) or a continuous oil phase (e.g., water-in-oil or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion). The oil phase of the present application can comprise silicone oils, non-silicone oils (such as hydrocarbon oils, esters, ethers), and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase typically comprises water and water-soluble ingredients (e.g., water-soluble humectants, conditioning agents, antimicrobial agents, moisturizing agents, and / or other skin care actives). However, in some cases, the aqueous phase can comprise components other than water, including but not limited to water-soluble humectants, conditioning agents, antimicrobial agents, moisturizing agents, and / or other water-soluble skin care actives. In some cases, the non-water components of the composition include moisturizing agents such as glycerin and / or other polyols.

[0057] In some cases, the compositions herein are in the form of an oil-in-water ("O / W") emulsion that provides a light and non-greasy perceived feel. Suitable O / W emulsions herein can comprise greater than 50% of a continuous aqueous phase by weight of the composition, and the remainder is a dispersed oil phase. The aqueous phase can comprise from 1% to 99% water, based on the weight of the aqueous phase, and any water-soluble and / or water-miscible ingredients. In these cases, the dispersed oil phase will typically be present at less than 30% (e.g., 1% to 20%, 2% to 15%, 3% to 12%, 4% to 10%, or even 5% to 8%) by weight of the composition to help avoid some of the undesirable sensory effects of an oily composition. The oil phase can include one or more volatile and / or non-volatile oils (e.g., plant oils, silicone oils, and / or hydrocarbon oils).

[0058] Skin conditioning agent

[0059] Optionally, the compositions of the present application can further comprise skin conditioning agents. These agents can be selected from the group consisting of moisturizers and emollients. The amount of skin conditioning agents can range from about 1% to about 50%, preferably from about 2% to about 40%, more preferably from about 5% to about 30%, by weight of the composition.

[0060] Humectants are polyols intended to serve to moisturize, reduce scaling, and promote removal of accumulated scale from the skin. Typical polyols include polyalkylene glycols, and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives. Illustrative are propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3- butanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol, and mixtures thereof. Most preferably the humectant is glycerol.

[0061] When the conditioning agent is an emollient, it can be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and esters.

[0062] Fatty alcohol

[0063] The compositions herein can comprise a fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohols refer to high molecular weight, straight-chain primary alcohols having the general structure:

[0064]

[0065] wherein n = 8 to 32.

[0066] Fatty alcohols can be natural or synthetic, saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight-chain. Some non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols commonly used in cosmetic compositions include octanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. The fatty alcohols herein can generally be denoted by the number of carbon atoms in the molecule. For example, a "C12 alcohol" refers to an alcohol having 12 carbon atoms in its chain (i.e., dodecanol).

[0067] Fatty alcohols can be included in the compositions herein from 0.0001% to 15% by weight of the composition (e.g., 0.0002% to 10%, 0.001% to 15%, 0.025% to 10%, 0.05% to 7%, 0.05% to 5%, or even 0.1% to 3%).

[0068] Whitening agent

[0069] The compositions of the present application can contain a whitening agent. Whitening agents useful herein refer to active ingredients that not only change the appearance of the skin, but also further improve hyperpigmentation as compared to pretreatment. Useful whitening agents herein include ascorbic acid compounds, vitamin B3 compounds, azelaic acid, butylated hydroxyanisole, gallic acid and its derivatives, hydroquinolines, kojic acid, arbutin, mulberry extract, tetrahydrocurcumin, and mixtures thereof. It is also believed that the use of a combination of whitening agents is advantageous as they can provide whitening benefits through different mechanisms.

[0070] When used, the composition preferably contains from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of the whitening agent.

[0071] Ascorbic acid compounds are useful whitening agents, and ascorbyl glucoside is a preferred derivative of ascorbic acid compounds.

[0072] Conditioning agent

[0073] The compositions herein can comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of a conditioning agent (e.g., from 0.5% to 30%, from 1% to 20%, or even from 2% to 15% by weight). The addition of a conditioning agent can help to provide the composition with desirable sensory properties (e.g., a silky, lubricious feel upon application). Some non-limiting examples of conditioning agents include hydrocarbon oils and waxes, silicones, fatty acid derivatives, cholesterol, cholesterol derivatives, diglycerides, triglycerides, vegetable oils, vegetable oil derivatives, acetylated glycerides, alkyl esters, alkenyl esters, lanolin, wax esters, beeswax derivatives, sterol and phospholipids, their salts, isomers, and derivatives, and combinations thereof. Particularly suitable examples of conditioning agents include volatile or non-volatile silicone fluids such as dimethicone copolyol, dimethyipoly siloxane, diethyl polysiloxane, mixed C1-30 alkyl polysiloxane, phenyl dimethicone, dimethicone alcohol, dimethicone, dimethicone alcohol, silicone crosspolymers, and combinations thereof. Dimethicone can be especially suitable as some consumers associate the sensory properties provided by certain dimethicone fluids with good moisturization. Other examples of silicone fluids that can be suitable for use as conditioning agents are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,011,681.

[0074] Thickening agent

[0075] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present application can further comprise one or more thickening agents.

[0076] Non-limiting classes of thickening agents include those selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums.

[0077] When present, the composition preferably comprises from about 0.01% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 4%, and still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, by weight of the composition, of the thickening agent.

[0078] Emulsifying agent

[0079] When the composition is in the form of an emulsion, it can contain an emulsifier. The emulsifier can be nonionic, anionic, cationic, or zwitterionic. Some non-limiting examples of emulsifiers are disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,755,560; 4,421,769; U.S. Publication No. 2006 / 0275237; and McCutcheon, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition, pages 317-324 (1986). Suitable examples of emulsifiers include nonionic emulsifiers such as polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and glyceryl-25 pyrrolidone carboxylic acid isostearate. A particularly suitable example of an emulsifier for use in the compositions described herein is polysorbate 20.

[0080] Other optional ingredients

[0081] Compositions suitable for use in the methods herein can include one or more optional ingredients known for use in topical cosmetic compositions, with the proviso that the optional ingredient(s) do not unacceptably alter the desired benefits of the composition. In some cases, it can be desirable to select cosmetic actives that work via different biological pathways, such that the actives do not interfere with one another. When the composition is in the form of an emulsion, additional ingredients should not introduce instability (e.g., syneresis) into the emulsion. For example, it can be desirable to select optional ingredients that do not form complexes with other ingredients in the composition, especially pH-sensitive ingredients such as vitamin B3 compounds, salicylates, and peptides.

[0082] The additional ingredients should be suitable for use with human skin tissue, without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like. When present, optional components can be included in an amount of from about 0.001% to 50% (e.g., 0.01% to 40%, 0.1% to 30%, 0.5% to 20%, or even 1% to 10%), by weight of the composition. Some non-limiting examples of additional ingredients include vitamins, minerals, peptides and peptide derivatives, sugar amines, sunscreens, oil control agents, particulates, flavonoid compounds, hair growth regulators, antioxidants and / or antioxidant precursors, preservatives, protease inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, anti-inflammatory agents, moisturizing agents, exfoliating agents, skin lightening agents, sunless tanning agents, emollients, anti-acne agents, fat-reducing agents, chelating agents, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-atrophy actives, phytosterols and / or phytohormones, N-acyl amino acid compounds, antimicrobial and antifungal agents. Some particularly suitable examples of additional ingredients include one or more skin care actives selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3 compounds (e.g., niacinamide), n-acyl amino acids (e.g., undecylenoyl phenylalanine), vitamin E compounds (e.g., tocopheryl acetate), palmitoylated dipeptides (e.g., palmitoyl-lysine-threonine), palmitoylated pentapeptides (e.g., palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine), vitamin A compounds (e.g., retinol and retinyl propionate), and combinations thereof. Other non-limiting examples of optional ingredients and / or skin care actives that can be suitable for use herein are described in U.S. Patent Publication Nos. 2002 / 0022040, 2003 / 0049212, 2004 / 0175347, 2006 / 0275237, 2007 / 0196344, 2008 / 0181956, 2008 / 0206373, 2010 / 0092408, 2008 / 0206373, 2010 / 0239510, 2010 / 0189669, 2010 / 0272667, 2011 / 0262025, 2011 / 0097286, US2012 / 0197016, 2012 / 0128683, 2012 / 0148515, 2012 / 0156146, and 2013 / 0022557, and U.S. Patent Nos. 5,939,082, 5,872,112, 6,492,326, 6,696,049, 6,524,598, 5,972,359, and 6,174,533.

[0083] Method of using the cosmetic composition

[0084] The methods herein include identifying a target skin portion of a person in need of treatment, and applying the composition to the target skin portion over the course of a treatment period. The target skin portion can be on the surface of facial skin (such as the forehead, perioral, chin, periorbital, nose, and / or cheeks) or another portion of the body (e.g., hands, arms, legs, back, chest). The person in need of treatment is one whose skin exhibits signs of oxidative stress (such as fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, and / or other visible skin characteristics typically associated with aging). In some cases, the target portion of the skin can not exhibit visible signs of skin aging, but a user (e.g., a relatively young user) can still wish to target such skin areas if the area is one where such issues typically arise as the person ages. In this way, the present methods can be used as a preventative measure to delay the onset of visible signs of skin aging.

[0085] The composition can be applied to the target skin portion, and if desired, to surrounding skin, at least once a day, twice a day, or in more frequent daily applications over the course of a treatment period. When applied twice a day, the first and second applications are separated by at least 1 to 12 hours. Typically, the composition can be applied in the morning and / or in the evening, just before bed. The treatment period can last for at least 1 week (e.g., about 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, or even 12 weeks). In some cases, the treatment period will extend for months (i.e., 3 months to 12 months). In some cases, the composition can be applied most days of the week (e.g., at least 4, 5, or 6 days per week) at least once a day or even twice a day over the course of a treatment period of at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, or 12 weeks.

[0086] The step of applying the composition can be achieved by topical application. With respect to the application of the composition, the terms "topical," "topically," and "topically applied" mean that the composition is delivered to the target area (e.g., a wrinkle or fine line) while minimizing delivery to skin surfaces that are not intended to be treated. The composition can be applied to and gently rubbed into the skin area. The form of the composition or dermatologically acceptable carrier should be chosen to facilitate topical application. While certain embodiments herein contemplate topical application of the composition to a certain area, it should be understood that the compositions herein can be applied broadly to one or more skin surfaces. In certain embodiments, the compositions herein can be used as part of a multi-step cosmetic regimen, where the compositions of the present application can be applied before and / or after one or more other compositions.

[0087] Combination

[0088] A. A method of making a cosmetic composition, the method comprising the step of preparing a mixture of:

[0089] (a) one or more esters of sucrose and a fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, and wherein the sucrose ester is selected from the group consisting of mono-esters, di-esters, tri-esters, tetra-esters, and mixtures thereof;

[0090] (b) one or more solvents selected from those having a Hildebrand solubility parameter of from about 23 to about 31.5, preferably from about 23 to about 29 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 and a polar component of the Hansen solubility parameter of from about 4.5 to about 10.5, preferably from about 5 to about 9, more preferably from about 5.5 to about 8 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 .

[0091] B. The method according to any of the preceding features, wherein the mixture comprises from about 70% to about 100%, preferably from about 80% to about 100%, more preferably from about 90% to about 100% of the sum of the sucrose ester and the solvent.

[0092] C. The method according to any of the preceding features, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having a saturated alkyl group containing from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms.

[0093] D. The method according to any of the preceding features, wherein the weight ratio between the sucrose ester and the solvent is from about 1 : 1000 to about 1000: 1, preferably from about 1 : 100 to about 100: 1, more preferably from about 10: 1 to about 1 : 10, still more preferably from about 5: 1 to 1 : 5, even more preferably from about 2.5: 1 to 1 : 2.5.

[0094] E. The method according to any of the preceding features, further comprising the step of mixing the mixture and an aqueous carrier.

[0095] F. The method according to any of the preceding features, wherein the weight ratio between the aqueous carrier and the mixture is from about 1000: 1 to about 1 : 1000, preferably from about 1 : 100 to about 100: 1, more preferably from about 1 : 10 to about 10: 1, still more preferably from about 5: 1 to about 1 : 5, even more preferably from about 2: 1 to about 1 : 5.

[0096] G. The method according to any of the preceding features, wherein the step of mixing the mixture and an aqueous carrier comprises a first dilution step and a second dilution step, wherein in the first dilution step the weight ratio between the aqueous carrier and the mixture is from about 1 : 10 to about 10: 1, preferably from about 5: 1 to about 1 : 5, more preferably from about 2: 1 to about 1 : 5.

[0097] H. The method of any one of the preceding features, wherein the sucrose ester contains from about 10% to about 100%, preferably from about 20% to about 100%, more preferably from about 50% to about 90% higher esters selected from the group consisting of diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] I. The method of any one of the preceding features, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises from about 0.01% to about 50%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 35%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 25%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 20% of the sucrose ester.

[0099] Examples

[0100] Table 1 - Mixtures (wt%)

[0101]

[0102] **i) Visually observed after 24 hours after mixing at 80°C for 60 minutes.

[0103] Table 2 - First dilution (wt%)

[0104]

[0105] **ii) Visually observed after mixing the mixture and deionized water for 1 minute at room temperature.

[0106] Table 3 - Second dilution (wt%)

[0107]

[0108]

[0109] **iii) Visually observed after mixing as follows:

[0110] (a) Mixing the aqueous phase ingredients at room temperature until homogenized;

[0111] (b) Mixing such homogenized aqueous phase ingredients from (a) and the first dilution from Table 2 for 5 minutes; and

[0112] (c) Mixing such mixed ingredients from (b) and the oil phase ingredients by a homogenizer at 5000 rpm for 5 minutes at room temperature.

[0113] Ingredients

[0114]

[0115] The second dilution Examples 1 to 5 are skin care compositions prepared by the manufacturing method of the present application. The second dilution CEx.i is a skin care composition prepared by a manufacturing method different from the present application, and is provided as a comparative example. As shown in the above table, the method of the present application can dissolve sucrose ester in the skin care composition, while the comparative example cannot dissolve sucrose ester.

[0116] The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the exact value and a functional equivalent ranging

[0117] Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any application disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or along with any other document or together with any relevant

[0118] While particular embodiments of the present application have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the application. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this application.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition comprising a sucrose ester, wherein the sucrose ester is dissolved in a continuous aqueous phase of the composition, the method comprising the steps of: (1) Prepare a mixture of the following substances: (a) An ester of one or more sucrose and a fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and wherein the sucrose ester comprises 20% to 100% by weight of a higher ester, the higher ester being selected from the group consisting of diesters, triesters, tetraesters and mixtures thereof. (b) A solvent, wherein the solvent is pentylene glycol; The mixture comprises 90% to 100% of the sum of the sucrose ester and the solvent, and, in, In the mixture, the weight ratio between the sucrose ester and the solvent is 2.5:1 to 1:5; (2) A first dilution of the mixture is made by diluting the mixture with water, wherein in the first dilution, the weight ratio between the water and the mixture is 2:1 to 1:5; (3) Dilute the diluted mixture obtained from the first dilution to prepare a second dilution of the cosmetic composition, wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, wherein the dispersed oil phase is present in an amount of 1% to 8% by weight of the composition.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is selected from those having a saturated alkyl group having 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio between the sucrose ester and the solvent is 2.5:1 to 1:2.

5.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein the sucrose ester contains 50% to 90% higher esters, the higher esters being selected from the group consisting of diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and mixtures thereof.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.01% to 50% of the sucrose ester.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.1% to 35% of the sucrose ester.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.5% to 25% of the sucrose ester.

10. The method of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 1% to 20% of the sucrose ester.