Binder for use in powdery cosmetic compositions

Abstract

The powdered cosmetic composition comprises a particulate phase and a binder subcomposition. The binder subcomposition is composed of a viscous emollient, a non-viscous emollient, a triglyceride fatty acid, and one or more specific waxes. The binder subcomposition is particularly suitable for stabilizing pearlescent and metallic pigments. The composition is stable, has a creamy texture, and is suitable for long-lasting makeup while providing true color, excellent color compensation, and skin conditioning.

Description

Invention Field

[0001] This disclosure generally relates to powder cosmetic compositions for use on skin and hair. More particularly, this disclosure relates to powder eye cosmetic compositions comprising metallic, pearlescent, or other color effect pigments. Background Technology

[0002] In the cosmetics industry, pearlescent pigments produce interference effects dependent on lighting and viewing angle. For example, pearlescent pigments can produce a deep sheen and luster when applied to the skin surface. The appearance imparted by pearlescent pigments is considered aesthetically pleasing, attractive, and sensorially pleasing. Typical pearlescent pigments consist of flaky particles of mica coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide. Variations in coating thickness produce a range of refractive indices and various visual effects. When applied to the skin, particle size also affects the feel of the cosmetic. Roughly speaking, pearlescent pigments in the 1-15 μm range impart a velvety feel and a matte shimmer. As the pigment size increases slightly (5-25 μm), the feel becomes more silky, and the visual effect becomes brighter and smoother. With further increases in pigment size (around 50 μm), a shimmering appearance appears. This shimmering effect becomes increasingly pronounced when the pigment size increases to at least approximately 500 μm.

[0003] Cosmetic metallic pigments are very thin, flaky particles, typically made from borosilicates, synthetic fluorophlogopite, and mica. Light is reflected from these pigments, but the amount of light perceived by the eye depends largely on the viewing angle. Metallic pigments provide shimmer and luster. The exact behavior depends on the size and shape of the metallic particles.

[0004] Pressed powder is a type of delivery system used for metallic and pearlescent pigments. Pressed powder compositions typically comprise a particulate phase and a binder phase. The particulate phase can comprise a variety of dry powders and pigments. Typically, the binder phase can be dry or liquid, but this invention utilizes a liquid binder system. Liquid binder systems containing natural oils, esters, and softeners provide lubricity, cushioning, and film-forming ability. Both natural oils and softeners are excellent pigment dispersants, providing great smoothness, spreadability, and improved hold. Some oils enhance skin adhesion, while others contribute to providing a silky-smooth powder feel. In summary, liquid binder systems improve powder compressibility while reducing dust, increasing the gloss of the finished product, and providing a silky-smooth finish on the skin. However, even with liquid binder systems, pressed powder compositions are often difficult to stabilize. This is especially true when the concentration of large pigment particles is too high. At a certain critical point, the particulate phase cannot fully absorb the liquid binder. This large pigment concentration limit restricts the extent of achievable optical effects.

[0005] In pressed powder applications, synthetic waxes have been explored as stabilizers. These synthetic waxes include, but are not limited to, polyolefin waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lignite waxes, polyethylene waxes, ceresin waxes, and mixtures thereof. However, synthetic waxes tend to be dusty and do not provide the necessary adhesion to stabilize compositions containing relatively high concentrations of metallic or pearlescent pigments. Furthermore, glitter products often exhibit little to no retention on the skin. To date, satisfactory results have not been achieved, and a need remains for stabilizers that effectively stabilize metallic or pearlescent pigments in pressed powder compositions.

[0006] Purpose of the Invention

[0007] The main objective of this invention is to provide a binder for powder cosmetic compositions, particularly powder cosmetic compositions containing metallic and pearlescent pigments. Summary of the Invention

[0008] This article describes a binder sub-composition for use in the binder phase of powder cosmetics, particularly pressed powder compositions. The binder sub-composition comprises one or more viscous softeners, one or more non-viscous softeners, one or more triglyceride fatty acids, and one or more floral waxes. The binder sub-composition is preferably used in pressed cosmetic compositions containing metallic and pearlescent pigments. The sub-composition stabilizes metallic and pearlescent particles, preventing dust accumulation. Pressed powder compositions according to the invention, utilizing the binder sub-composition, have a creamy texture and are suitable for long-lasting wear (flexible, water-resistant, stain-resistant, and peel-resistant). The composition provides true color, excellent color compensation, and skin conditioning.

[0009] definition

[0010] "Includes" means that a series of elements may not be limited to those explicitly listed.

[0011] "Composed of" or similar phrases mean a series of elements limited to those explicitly listed.

[0012] Except as provided in the operational and comparative examples, or where otherwise expressly indicated, all figures in this specification indicating the amount or ratio of materials or reaction conditions, physical properties of materials, and / or uses shall be understood to be modified by the word “about”.

[0013] As used herein, the terms “stable” and “stability” mean that the chemical state, physical homogeneity and / or color of the composition remain substantially unchanged over a period of at least six months when the temperature of the composition changes from about 1°C to about 40°C.

[0014] As used herein, the term "powder" includes fine and coarse powders, flakes, crystalline flakes, small flakes, spherical particles, precipitates, and other solid particulate materials. Detailed Implementation

[0015] This invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase.

[0016] Particulate phase

[0017] The particulate phase comprises a variety of cosmetically acceptable powder ingredients and pigments, particularly one or more pearlescent and / or metallic pigments. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate phase comprises one or more pearlescent and / or metallic pigments. These pigments typically have a diameter (or other characteristic size) ranging from about 0.1 μm to about 500 μm.

[0018] binder phase

[0019] The binder phase comprises a binder subcomposition consisting of one or more viscous softeners, one or more non-viscous softeners, one or more triglyceride fatty acids, and one or more floral waxes. The binder phase may also contain any cosmetically acceptable liquid ingredient that does not interfere with the function of the binder subcomposition.

[0020] Sticky and non-sticky softeners

[0021] The dynamic viscosity of a liquid is a measure of its ability to resist deformation at a given shear rate. At a macroscopic level, dynamic viscosity is a resistance to flow. The binder subcompositions of the present invention comprise one or more viscous softeners and one or more non-viscous softeners. Non-viscous softeners are liquids exhibiting little or no resistance to flow. We define non-viscous softeners as having a dynamic viscosity of less than about 100 mPa·s, more preferably less than about 50 mPa·s. For example, octyl dodecyl lactate (INCI name) is a highly polar liquid ester characterized by a dynamic viscosity of about 43 mPa·s. Octyl dodecyl lactate has been shown to be usable in embodiments of the present invention and is available from Nisshin Oillio Group as Cosmol-13. Conversely, viscous softeners usable in the present invention will have a dynamic viscosity between about 500 mPa·s and 1000 mPa·s. For example, tridecyl trimellitate (INCI name) is a liquid softener ester having a dynamic viscosity of about 860 mPa·s. Tridecyl trimellitate can be obtained from Vantage Specialty Ingredients (NJ) as a liponate. TM TDTM obtained.

[0022] Triglycerides and fatty acids

[0023] The binder sub-composition contains one or more C18-C36 triglyceride fatty acids. These triglyceride fatty acids are esters derived from glycerol and three other fatty acids. In the compositions of this invention, the triglyceride fatty acids act to soften waxes and reduce crystallinity. In some embodiments of this invention, triglycerides of behenic acid (triglycerides of behenic acid, C22) are preferred. Triglycerides of behenic acid are, for example, derived from Croda using Syncrowax. TM It is obtained from HRC and is in the form of a non-crystalline paste with a melting point between approximately 60°C and 65°C.

[0024] Flower wax

[0025] Floral waxes are solid aromatic plant waxes obtained during the production of floral concretes and absolutes. Floral waxes consist of natural waxes and aromatic compounds present in their source plants. Floral waxes include, but are not limited to, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), blackcurrant, blue lotus, cassava (Acacia analbata), chamomile, sage, immortelle (Helichydrum angustifolium), geranium, jasmine, mimosa, nutmeg, orange, rose, tuberose, violet, and mixtures thereof. Preferred floral waxes contain mixtures of C4-C50 hydrocarbons having a characteristic melting point range of about 30°C to 60°C (86°F-140°F). For the present invention, waxes with longer chains tend to be too hard.

[0026] Optional ingredients

[0027] The compressed powder cosmetic compositions of the present invention may optionally contain a variety of cosmetically acceptable ingredients for known beauty or skincare benefits, provided that said ingredients are compatible with the compressed powder product form. Optional ingredients may be in a particulate phase, a binder phase, or both. In practice, any non-particulate ingredient (i.e., liquid, paste) must be added to the liquid binder phase. When present, the total amount of all optional ingredients will range from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight of the total compressed powder cosmetic composition. Preferred embodiments of the invention do not contain talc or silicone.

[0028] Optional ingredients include, but are not limited to, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, vitamins, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatory agents, analgesics, anesthetics, anti-acne agents, antimicrobial agents, antibacterial agents, anti-yeast agents, antifungal agents, antiviral agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-dermatitis agents, antipruritic agents, antiemetics, anti-excessive keratolysis agents, anti-allergy agents, preservatives, anti-dry skin agents, anti-psoriasis agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-asthmatic agents, sunscreens, antihistamines, bleaching agents, wound healing agents, corticosteroids, tannins, moisturizers, lubricants, masking agents, drugs, humectants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, emulsifiers, surfactants, thickeners, and hormones.

[0029] Example

[0030] Reference standards for comparison

[0031] In the following embodiments, test samples were prepared according to the pressed powder eyeshadow formulation shown in Table 1.

[0032]

[0033] 1. Nylon-12 microspheres (Kobo Products, Inc.).

[0034] 2. 100% polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder.

[0035] 3.100% magnesium myristate.

[0036] 4.40.0%-50.0% mica substrate, 50.0%-60.0% iron oxide coating, (EMD Performance Materials); 10-60 μm.

[0037] 5. Sodium calcium borosilicate / silicon dioxide / titanium dioxide (CI 77891) / tin oxide (BASF); 27-128μm.

[0038] 6. Octanoyl glycol / phenoxyethanol / hexanediol (Hampford Research).

[0039] 7. Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride / Polyhydroxystearate / Isostearate / Lecithin / Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate (Applechem, Inc.).

[0040] Typical conventional binder phases are shown in Table 2.

[0041]

[0042] However, when this binder phase was incorporated into the eyeshadows in Table 1, the binder was not absorbed by the powder components, and the liquid seeped out from the corners of the palette during pressing. The resulting palette was too hard, with cracked corners, exhibiting poor shimmer and color compensation. Clearly, a different type of binder is needed.

[0043] The four essential components constituting the adhesive sub-composition according to the invention are shown in Table 3. Table 3 shows the relative percentages of an adhesive sub-composition, which yields excellent results in terms of compressibility, stability, drop test, overall appearance, texture, and color compensation. Eyeshadows having the binder phase shown in Table 3, formulated according to the formulations shown in Table 1, constitute a standard (control) for comparing variations in the adhesive sub-composition. The binder phase contains two optional liquid components.

[0044]

[0045]

[0046] 1. Behenic acid, 1,2,3-propanetriyl ester (Croda, Inc.)

[0047] 2. Benzoic acid C12-15 alkyl ester / Trimethylbenzene hexapeptide / Ceramide 2 / PEG-10 phytosterol / Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 (Sederma)

[0048] Example

[0049] In the following examples, only the binder phase is shown; the complete formulation is understood from Table 1. The only difference between individual test samples is the concentration of the components that make up the binder sub-compositions shown in Table 3. The concentration of each component is shown as a percentage of the binder phase. One-quarter of this amount is the concentration as a percentage of the complete formulation shown in Table 1. Drop test data were collected by dropping a tray of pressed powder from a height of 9 to 15 inches onto a designated surface until it broke.

[0050] Example 1

[0051] Pressed powders were prepared using the binder phases shown in Table 4 by varying the content of tridecyl trimellitate and, to a lesser extent, octyl dodecyl lactate, while keeping all other parameters constant. All test powders were pressed using the same equipment.

[0052]

[0053]

[0054] Example 2

[0055] Pressed powders were prepared using the binder phase shown in Table 5 by varying the content of tridecyl trimellitate and by moderately varying other components (except for Dermaxyl, whose use is limited).

[0056]

[0057]

[0058] Observations from Examples 1 and 2:

[0059] Higher concentrations of tridecyl trimellitate result in increased color compensation and a more creamy, powdery texture. This occurs regardless of whether the percentage of octyl dodecyl lactate remains constant or varies proportionally with tridecyl trimellitate. We conclude that, in some preferred embodiments of the invention, the binder phase will comprise one or more viscous softeners, totaling about 70% to about 85% of the total weight of the binder phase (or about 17.5% to about 21.25% of the total weight of the powder cosmetic composition).

[0060] Example 3

[0061] Pressed powders were prepared using the binder phase shown in Table 6 by varying the content of octyl dodecyl lactate and appropriately altering the content of tridecyl trimellitate, while keeping everything else constant.

[0062]

[0063]

[0064]

[0065]

[0066] Observations from Example 3:

[0067] When octyl dodecyl lactate is present in the range of about 5% to 14% by weight of the binder phase, the results are comparable to those of the standard. Outside this range, the results are unacceptable. We conclude that, in some preferred embodiments of the invention, the binder phase will contain one or more non-sticky softeners in a total amount of about 5% to about 14% by weight of the total binder phase (or about 1.25% to about 3.50% by weight of the total powder cosmetic composition).

[0068] Example 4

[0069] Pressed powders were prepared using the binder phase shown in Table 7 by varying the content of triglyceride fatty acid (Syncrowax HR-C) and appropriately altering tridecyl trimellitate while keeping everything else constant.

[0070]

[0071]

[0072] Observations from Example 4:

[0073] We conclude that, in some preferred embodiments of the invention, the binder phase will contain one or more triglyceride fatty acids, in a total amount of about 2.0%-2.5% of the total weight of the binder phase (or about 0.50% to about 0.63% of the total weight of the powder cosmetic composition). When the concentration of triglyceride fatty acids is outside this range, the resulting pressed powder composition is of insufficient quality compared to the standard.

[0074] Example 5

[0075] Pressed powders were prepared using the binder phase shown in Table 8 by varying the content of lavender wax and appropriately altering the amount of tridecyl trimellitate while keeping everything else constant.

[0076]

[0077]

[0078]

[0079] Observations from Example 5:

[0080] Test samples containing 10% or more lavender wax experienced crumbling upon pressing. Test samples containing 2% or less lavender wax were unacceptable compared to the standard. Test samples containing 3%-9% lavender wax exhibited similar performance to the standard. We conclude that, in some embodiments of the invention, the preferred amount of lavender wax ranges from about 3% to about 9% of the binder phase (or from about 0.75% to about 2.25% of the total weight of the powdered cosmetic composition). The most preferred amount is from about 4% to about 5% of the total weight of the binder phase (or from about 1% to about 1.25% of the total weight of the powdered cosmetic composition).

[0081] Example 6

[0082] We wanted to determine whether floral waxes other than lavender wax, which has a melting point of approximately 35°C, could be used in binder sub-compositions. Pressed powders (Tests 1–6) were prepared using the binder phases shown in Table 9 by replacing the lavender wax in the standard binder phase (Table 3) with various other floral waxes having melting points ranging from approximately 30°C to 60°C (86°F–140°F). Non-floral waxes such as ceresin were included for comparison (Test 7). Ceresin is a hydrocarbon wax derived from mineral or petroleum sources. We used microcrystalline waxes that melt in the range of 70°C to 97°C.

[0083]

[0084]

[0085]

[0086] Observations from Example 6:

[0087] The performance of tests 1-6 was comparable to that of the standard product using lavender wax. The performance of test 7 was unacceptable. The cake was too hard and developed a glossy finish. Corners chipped upon pressing. We conclude that, in some preferred embodiments of the invention, the binder phase will comprise one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon floral waxes having a melting point range between 30°C and 60°C.

[0088] Example 7

[0089] In this embodiment, we removed all wax components from the standard binder subcomposition (Table 3) and appropriately modified the tridecyl trimellitate.

[0090]

[0091] 1. Benzoic acid C12-15 alkyl ester / Trimethylbenzene hexapeptide / Ceramide 2 / PEG-10 phytosterol / Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 (Sederma)

[0092] Observations from Example 7:

[0093] Incorporating the binder phase from Table 10 into the base formulation (Table 1) produces unacceptable, dusty, and fragile cakes.

[0094] Example 8

[0095] Table 11 shows the results when trimellitic acid tridecyl ester (viscosity -859.4 mPa·s) was replaced with a softener of different viscosities.

[0096]

[0097]

[0098]

[0099] 1. C8-10 fatty acid C12-18-alkyl esters (INCI name: Cocoyl octanoate / decanoate) (BASF)

[0100] 2. Diglyceryl triisostearate (INCI name: polyglycerol-2-triisostearate) (Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.)

[0101] 3. Poly(oxy-1,2-ethylenedimethyl), α,α',α”-1,2,3-propanetriyltri[ω-hydroxy-,2-hydroxypropionate (INCI name: glycerol polyoxyethylene ether-5 lactate) (ALZO, International)

[0102] 4. (Surfatech Corp)

[0103] Observations from Example 8:

[0104] When a softener with a dynamic viscosity several orders of magnitude higher or lower than that of tridecyl trimellitate (viscosity = 859.4 mPa·s) is used, the resulting binder sub-composite exhibits poor performance. Conversely, Cosmol... TM The performance at 43V (448mPa·s) is comparable to the control in some respects, and Dermol TM L45 (900 mPa·s) performs even better. We conclude that, in some preferred embodiments of the invention, the viscous softener component of the binder subcomposition should have a dynamic viscosity between about 500 mPa·s and 1000 mPa·s.

[0105] Example 9

[0106] This invention relates to compositions applied to the skin surface. We discuss the benefits of our binder sub-composition in pressed powder eyeshadow. However, the binder sub-composition according to the invention can be used in a variety of other cosmetics. For example, a blush composition utilizing the standard binder sub-composition is formed by pressing at 300 psi. The aesthetics are acceptable, and four drops of blush were dropped in the drop test. A face powder composition utilizing the standard binder sub-composition is formed by pressing at 400 psi. The aesthetics are acceptable, and the face powder withstood two drops in the drop test. In summary, binder formulations can be pressed at different pan sizes, adjusting the pressure to ensure that the pressed formulation passes the drop test without compromising the product's aesthetics. In contrast to pressed powder forms, loose powder compositions are prepared by reducing the binder phase from 25% to about 7% of the total loose powder composition, wherein the pearl particles are appropriately modified. The aesthetics are acceptable. Our observations lead us to conclude that the binder phase according to the invention can be used in powder cosmetics at a concentration of about 7% to about 25% of the total powder cosmetic composition.

[0107] Example 10

[0108] In the particulate phase, the concentration of the relatively larger pearlescent pigment (Glassmira OM24) was increased, and the concentration of the relatively smaller pearlescent pigment (Syncrystal Almond) was moderately altered. All others remained constant.

[0109]

[0110] 1. Nylon-12 microspheres (Kobo Products, Inc.).

[0111] 2. 100% polymethyl methacrylate spherical powder.

[0112] 3.100% magnesium myristate.

[0113] 4. Synthetic fluorophlogopite (free-flowing powder) coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxide, 20-25 μm.

[0114] 5. Sodium calcium aluminum silicate, iron oxide (III), silicon dioxide (pearl pigment 20-500μm).

[0115] 6. Octanoyl glycol / phenoxyethanol / hexanediol (Hampford Research).

[0116] 7. Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride / Polyhydroxystearate / Isostearate / Lecithin / Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate (Applechem, Inc.).

[0117] Observations from Example 10:

[0118] In Test 4 (conventional binder phase), the material could not be pressed into a cake. Liquid overflowed from all sides of the pan, indicating that the powder could not absorb the conventional binder even at the lowest test concentration due to the presence of large pearl-like particles. In contrast, using the binder sub-composition according to the invention, cakes could be pressed, even when the concentration of large pearl-like particles was as high as 25.2% by weight of the total powder cosmetic composition.

[0119] We describe a powdered cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase. The binder phase comprises a binder sub-composition. This binder sub-composition is particularly suitable for stabilizing pearlescent and metallic pigments. The composition is stable, has a creamy texture, and is suitable for long-lasting wear while providing true color, excellent color compensation, and skin conditioning. Although specific embodiments of the invention have been described and illustrated, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that many other variations and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Therefore, the appended claims are intended to cover all such variations and modifications within the scope of the invention.

Claims

1. A powdered cosmetic composition comprising a particulate phase and a binder phase, wherein: The particulate phase comprises up to 25% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable pearlescent and / or metallic pigments in the powdered cosmetic composition. The binder phase comprises a binder sub-composition, which is composed of the following: One or more viscous softeners, comprising 17.5% to 21.25% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition, wherein the viscous softeners have a dynamic viscosity between 500 mPa•s and 1000 mPa•s; One or more non-sticky softeners, comprising 1.25% to 3.5% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition, wherein the non-sticky softeners have a dynamic viscosity of less than 100 mPa•s; One or more C18-C36 triglyceride fatty acids, comprising 0.50% to 0.63% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition; One or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon floral waxes, comprising 0.75% to 2.25% by weight of the powdered cosmetic composition, wherein the C4-C50 hydrocarbon floral waxes have a melting point range between 30°C and 60°C. The one or more non-sticky softeners are octyl dodecyl lactate, the one or more C18-C36 triglyceride fatty acids are triglycerides, and the one or more sticky softeners are tridecyl trimellitate.

2. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the particulate phase comprises one or more types of particulate matter, wherein the particulate matter is characterized in that its size is from 0.1 μm to 500 μm.

3. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic composition is a compressed powdered cosmetic composition.

4. The powdered cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein one or more C4-C50 hydrocarbon floral waxes are lavender waxes.