SEA CUCUMBER EXTRACT PREPARATION AS RAW MATERIAL FOR ANTI-AGING COSMETICS
Patent Information
- Application Number
- IDP00202314351
- Authority / Receiving Office
- ID · ID
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-20
- Publication Date
- 2024-07-05
Smart Images
Figure 0_ABST
Abstract
Description
SEA CUCUMBER EXTRACT PREPARATION AS RAW MATERIAL FOR ANTIAGING COSMETICS Invention Engineering Field This invention relates to the preparation of a preparation from sea cucumber, more specifically a preparation of sea cucumber extract which produces sea cucumber extract rich in saponins, collagen peptides and polysaccharides from the sea cucumber species Holothuria atra as a raw material for anti-aging cosmetics. Background of the Invention The Indonesian market, with a population approaching 300 million, represents a significant market share for the cosmetics industry. Sales of local cosmetic products were reported at Rp 9.76 trillion in 2012. In the same year, trade in imported cosmetic products reached Rp 2.44 trillion and is expected to continue to increase (Anonymous, 2013). This presents its own challenges. Not only must local cosmetic products compete with imported finished products, but local products are also highly dependent on imported raw materials. Therefore, Indonesia needs to encourage the empowerment of local natural materials for industrial raw materials as an effort to achieve national independence in the global market. One of Indonesia's marine natural resources with high potential as a raw material for cosmetics is sea cucumbers. Sea cucumbers are one of Indonesia's dominant commodities in the international market. Conand & Byrne (1993) reported that Indonesia is the world's largest producer and exporter of sea cucumbers, with a production of around 4,700 tons in 1990. The average export price of sea cucumbers from 1996 to 2002 ranged from USD 1.44 to 15.06 (= IDR 20,000 to 223,000) per kg (Sukmiwati, Salmah, Ibrahim, Handayani, & Purwati, 2012). Several reports state that Indonesia is one of the sources of sea cucumbers in the Southeast Asian market besides the Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand, and Malaysia, with the main export destinations being Singapore and Hong Kong (Ferdouse, 2004). Most Indonesian sea cucumbers are exported in smoked dried form.Some types of sea cucumbers with high selling prices in the Asian market are Holothuria scabra (sand sea cucumber), Holothuria fuscogilva (white sea cucumber), Holothuria whitmaei (black sea cucumber) and Thelenota ananas (pineapple sea cucumber) (Choo, 2008). Not all types of Indonesian sea cucumbers have high economic value, so it is necessary to study the biopotential of local sea cucumber types that have not been widely utilized as value-added products. Inventions related to sea cucumber extract preparations have been widely disclosed in patent inventions, such as the South Korean patent invention, number KR101425708B1 entitled Preparation method of cosmetic composition comprising saponin from sea slug and the cosmetic composition thereby, published on August 4, 2014, which discloses a method for producing saponin as a cosmetic ingredient. However, the invention only utilizes the saponin compound in sea cucumbers. Another invention, such as South Korean patent KR101734873B1, entitled "Cosmetic composition comprising sea cucumber steaming juice or a fraction thereof as functional component," published on May 12, 2017, discloses the use of sea cucumber extract and its fractions as functional components in cosmetics. However, the invention only utilizes the glycoprotein compounds in sea cucumbers. Another invention, such as in the South Korean patent, number KR101578403B1 with the title Cosmetic composition containing sea horse, sea cucumber and abalone extracts by Bioconversion for skin moisturizing, publication date December 21, 2015, which discloses the use of a mixture of sea cucumber, abalone, and sea horse extracts treated with enzymes as a cosmetic ingredient with moisturizing and wrinkle-reducing effects. However, the invention only utilizes the crude extract in sea cucumbers resulting from the hydrolysis of the enzyme glucosidase. Another invention, such as in the South Korean patent, number KR101724529B1 with the title Cosmetic composition containing red sea cucumber extract fermented by Aureobasidium pullulans, publication date April 7, 2017, which discloses the use of sea cucumber Stichopus japonicus fermented with black mold (A. pullulans) as an antioxidant and moisturizing cosmetic ingredient. However, the invention utilizes crude sea cucumber extract without separating each group of compounds. Another invention, such as Chinese patent CN103271268B, entitled "Method for preparing sea cucumber anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream health-care food," published on March 19, 2014, discloses a method for producing a functional anti-aging food made from a mixture of sea cucumber and papaya. However, the invention utilizes crude sea cucumber extract without separating the individual compounds. Another invention, such as Chinese patent CN102743300B, entitled "Sea cucumber glycopeptide, preparation method and application to cosmetic preparation," published on December 31, 2014, discloses the preparation and application of sea cucumber glycopeptide as an anti-UV cosmetic ingredient. However, the invention only utilizes the glycopeptide compound in sea cucumbers. Another invention, such as in the Indonesian patent, number P00201507990 with the title Process of Making Collagen and Nanocollagen from Gamma Sea Cucumber as Anti-Aging, publication date May 21, 2019, which discloses the manufacture of collagen and nano-collagen from sea cucumber that can be dissolved in water at a temperature of 40-45 ° C as a raw material for anti-aging cosmetics. However, the invention only utilizes the collagen compound in sea cucumber. Based on the previous description, to overcome the weaknesses of the inventions, a preparation of anti-aging cosmetic raw materials is provided in the form of an extract rich in saponins, collagen peptides and polysaccharides. Brief Description of the Invention This invention aims to produce a preparation of Holothuria atra sea cucumber extract in the form of a saponin-rich extract, a collagen peptide-rich extract and a polysaccharide-rich extract. The saponin preparation was made with the following stages: cleaning the sea cucumber guts; cutting the sea cucumber into pieces; washing the sea cucumber with running water; macerating and stirring the sea cucumber; filtering the sea cucumber macerate; evaporating the filtrate; adding a coating; drying the saponin-rich extract that had been mixed with the coating using a dryer. The collagen peptide preparation was produced through the following stages: drying the sea cucumber meat residue from maceration using a dryer; hydrolyzing the dried sea cucumber meat residue; separating the sea cucumber protein hydrolysate using a filter; adding a coating to the filtered filtrate; drying the sea cucumber protein hydrolysate solution that had been mixed with the coating using a dryer. The polysaccharide preparation was produced through the following stages: drying the filtered pellets using a dryer. Preparations of extracts rich in saponins, collagen peptides and sea cucumber polysaccharides individually or together can be used as anti-aging raw materials. Short Description of Image Figure 1. is a stage in the process of making sea cucumber extract preparations according to this invention. Complete Description of the Invention This invention refers to the accompanying drawings. Figure 1 shows the stages of the process of making sea cucumber extract preparations, starting with: fresh sea cucumbers are cleaned of their guts and then cut into small pieces measuring 2-3 cm2. The sea cucumber pieces are then washed with running water for at least 2 minutes before being dried in a dryer at a temperature of 45 °C for at least 24 hours. The dried sea cucumber meat is then macerated with 70% technical ethanol with stirring for at least 1 hour at a temperature of 50-70oC. The resulting filtrate is then evaporated under a vacuum of 50-100 mbar at a water bath temperature of 40oC to produce a saponin-rich extract. The resulting saponin-rich extract was added with maltodextrin coating at a ratio of 1:5 of the weight of the saponin-rich extract in water until it reached a maximum viscosity of 35 °Bx. The saponin-rich extract that had been mixed with the coating was then dried using a dryer with an inlet / outlet temperature of 85 / 170oC to produce a dry saponin-rich extract preparation. The macerated sea cucumber residue was dried overnight at 55°C using a dryer. The dried sea cucumber residue was then hydrolyzed using a buffer solution containing protease enzymes with an enzyme / substrate ratio of 1:20 at 45°C for 6 hours to produce a mixture of sea cucumber protein and polysaccharide hydrolysates. The sea cucumber protein and polysaccharide hydrolysate mixture was filtered using filters of 5, 0.5, and 0.01 μm sizes, respectively. The filtrate containing the coating was added until it reached a maximum viscosity of 35 °Bx. The sea cucumber protein hydrolysate solution mixed with the coating was then dried using a dryer with an inlet / outlet temperature of 85 / 170oC to produce a dried sea cucumber collagen peptide preparation. The filtered pellets containing sea cucumber polysaccharides were added with buffer solution and coating into the filtered pellets until they reached a maximum viscosity of 35 °Bx. The sea cucumber polysaccharide solution that had been mixed with the coating used a dryer with an inlet / outlet temperature of 85 / 170 °C to produce a dry sea cucumber polysaccharide preparation. TABLE 1. Results of anti-aging activity testing of saponin-rich extract and protein hydrolysate of sea cucumber H. atra using human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells. Extract ED50 (μα / ιηΣ) Saponin 16, 75 Protein hydrolysate 30, 86 Sulfated polysaccharide 322,44 C16-KTTKS (trademark: Matrixyl)* 30-60 *Reference: Mol. Pharmaceutics 2013, 10, 3, 1063-1069 Saponin-rich extract has characteristics of saponin content of 92.49 + 1.25 μρ / mg extract and phenol of 4.60 ± 0.16 μρ / mg extract. Sea cucumber collagen peptide extract has characteristics of peptide content of 0.42 ± 0.01 mg / mg extract and collagen of 0.61 + 0.01 mg / mg extract. Sea cucumber polysaccharide extract has characteristics of sugar content of 109.60 ± 14.60 μg / mg extract, sulfate of 221.00 ± 39.11 μg / mg extract and uronic acid of 73.50 + 8.30 μg / mg extract. As shown in Table 1, the saponin-rich extract stimulated collagen in human skin cells with an ED50 of 16.75 μg / mL. The sea cucumber collagen peptide extract stimulated collagen in human skin cells with an ED50 of 30.86 μg / mL. The sea cucumber polysaccharide extract stimulated collagen in human skin cells with an ED50 of 322.44 μg / mL. When compared with the synthetic peptide compound Cie-KTTKS or also known as Matrixyl with an ED ranging from 30-60 μg / mL, the sea cucumber saponin-rich extract and the sea cucumber collagen peptide extract have equivalent anti-aging effectiveness. While the sea cucumber polysaccharide extract has lower anti-aging effectiveness than the other two extracts. The advantages of this method are as follows: (1) a shorter production process, (2) integrated production results resulting in three different preparations from one commodity; (3) minimizing the use of hazardous chemicals and waste; (4) the process is easy and cheap so it can be applied in small and medium industries.
Claims
1. A preparation of sea cucumber extract as a raw material for anti-aging cosmetics with the following steps: a. cleaning the guts of sea cucumbers; b. cutting sea cucumbers into 2-3 cm2 pieces; c. washing the cut sea cucumbers with running water for at least 2 minutes; d. drying with a dryer at 45 °C for at least 24 hours; e. macerating dry sea cucumbers with 70% technical ethanol and stirring for at least 1 hour at 50-70 oC; f. filtering sea cucumber macerate with a 200 mesh filter to produce a filtrate; g. making sea cucumber extract preparations rich in saponins, collagen peptides, and sea cucumber polysaccharides; h. producing sea cucumber extract preparations that have anti-aging activity.
2. The process of making sea cucumber extract preparations as raw materials for anti-aging cosmetics as per claim 1, wherein the stage of making the saponin-rich sea cucumber extract preparations consists of the following steps: a. evaporating the filtrate under vacuum conditions of 50-100 mbar with a water bath temperature of 40oC to produce a saponin-rich extract; b. adding a coating with a ratio of 1:5 of the weight of the saponin-rich extract in water until it reaches a maximum viscosity of 35 °Bx; c. drying the saponin-rich extract that has been mixed with the coating using a dryer with an inlet / outlet temperature of 85 / 170 oC so as to produce a dry saponin-rich sea cucumber extract preparation; i. storing the dry saponin-rich extract in a container at a temperature of 2-8 oC.
3. The process of making sea cucumber extract preparation as a raw material for anti-aging cosmetics as per claim 1, wherein the stage of making sea cucumber extract preparation rich in collagen peptides consists of the following steps: a. drying the sea cucumber meat residue resulting from maceration using a dryer at a temperature of 55 oC for one night; b. hydrolyzing the dried sea cucumber meat residue using a buffer solution containing protease enzymes with an enzyme / substrate ratio of 1:20, at a temperature of 45 °C for 6 hours to produce a mixture of sea cucumber protein and polysaccharide hydrolysate; c. separating the sea cucumber protein and polysaccharide hydrolysate using a filter with a size of 5, 0.5 and 0.01 μm respectively; d. adding a coating to the filtrate containing sea cucumber protein hydrolysate with a ratio of 1:5, w / v until it reaches a maximum viscosity of 35 °Bx; e.drying the sea cucumber protein hydrolysate solution that has been mixed with the coating using a dryer with an inlet / outlet temperature of 85 / 170 oC to produce a dry sea cucumber collagen peptide preparation; f. storing the dry sea cucumber collagen peptide preparation in a container at a temperature of 2-8 oC.
4. The process of making sea cucumber extract preparations as raw materials for anti-aging cosmetics as per claim 1, wherein the stage of making sea cucumber extract preparations rich in dried sea cucumber polysaccharides consists of the following steps: a. drying the sea cucumber meat residue resulting from maceration using a dryer at a temperature of 55 oC for one night; b. hydrolyzing the dried sea cucumber meat residue using a buffer solution containing protease enzymes with an enzyme / substrate ratio of 1:20, at a temperature of 45 °C for 6 hours to produce a mixture of protein hydrolysate and sea cucumber polysaccharides; c. separating the protein hydrolysate and sea cucumber polysaccharides using a filter tool of size 5, 0.5 and 0.01 μm respectively; d. adding buffer solution and coating to the filtered pellet until it reaches a maximum viscosity of 35 °Bx; e.drying the sea cucumber polysaccharide solution that has been mixed with the coating using a dryer with an inlet / outlet temperature of 85 / 170 oC to produce a dry sea cucumber polysaccharide preparation; f. storing the dry sea cucumber polysaccharide preparation in a container at a temperature of 2-8 oC.
5. A product prepared from sea cucumber extract as a raw material for anti-aging cosmetics has anti-aging activity with a high content of saponins, collagen peptides and sea cucumber polysaccharides.
6. Sea cucumber extract preparation product as a raw material for anti-aging cosmetics as per claim 5, where the sea cucumber extract preparation with high saponin content has the characteristics of a saponin content of 92.49 ± 1.25 μg / mg extract and phenol of 4.60 ± 0.16 μg / mg extract.
7. Sea cucumber extract preparation product as a raw material for anti-aging cosmetics as per claim 5, where the sea cucumber extract preparation with high collagen peptide content has characteristics of 0.42 ± 0.01 mg / mg extract and collagen of 0.61 ± 0.01 mg / mg extract.
8. Sea cucumber extract preparation product as a raw material for anti-aging cosmetics as per claim 5, wherein the sea cucumber extract preparation with high dry sea cucumber polysaccharide content has the following characteristics: sugar content of 109.60 ± 14.60 μg / mg extract, sulfate of 221.00 ± 39.11 μg / mg extract and uronic acid of 73.50 ± 8.30 μg / mg extract.