Method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers

Abstract

To provide a novel method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair. [Solution] The present invention relates to a method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, and comprises the steps of: (i) applying a shaping and coloring composition to keratin fibers, the composition comprising: (a) at least one amino acid or derivative thereof, (b) at least one alkaline agent, and (c) optionally at least one oxidative dye, and having a pH value greater than 9; (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C; and (iii) applying an oxidative composition to the keratin fibers, the composition comprising at least one oxidative compound.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair. [Background technology]

[0002] Hair styling, such as straightening and / or curling hair, and hair coloring, are widely used by consumers to enhance the aesthetic appeal of their hair.

[0003] Shaping keratin fibers, such as hair, by heating them with an iron is a popular method for making unruly keratin fibers easier to manage and for reducing their volume to make them look more desirable. While this method of reshaping using a heated iron is convenient for quick styling, the style only lasts for a short time, for example, until the next shampoo wash. There is a need for a reshaping method that lasts longer for many consumers.

[0004] It is also known that keratin fibers, particularly hair, can be dyed using dyeing compositions containing oxidative coloring precursors, generally called oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamine, ortho- or para-aminophenol, and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are generally combined with couplers. These oxidation bases and couplers are colorless or weakly colored compounds. However, when combined with an oxidizing agent, they can provide colored dye molecules through an oxidative condensation process.

[0005] This type of coloring, known as oxidation dyeing, offers very high visibility, gray hair coverage, and a wide range of shades. Oxidation dyeing is widely used because it allows for greater color absorption compared to direct dyeing using so-called direct dyes.

[0006] For oxidative staining, typically, a composition containing an oxidation base and a coupler is mixed with an alkaline agent and a developer composition containing an oxidizing agent to prepare a ready-to-use composition, which is then applied to keratin fibers.

[0007] To date, there have been several prior art publications reporting methods for shaping and coloring hair simultaneously.

[0008] For example, EP3233033A is a method for reshaping and coloring human hair, (I) A step of preparing a ready-to-use reshaping and coloring agent by mixing preparation (A) with preparation (B), (II) The process of applying ready-to-use reshaping and coloring agents to the hair, (III) A process of mechanically reshaping the hair, (IV) The process of rinsing the hair, (V) Optionally, a step to dry the hair and Includes, The first preparation (A) contains in a cosmetic vehicle one or more resorcinol derivatives from the group consisting of (A1) resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol, and (A2) one or more oxidation dye precursors from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, and 4,5-diaminopyrazole, and the second preparation (B) contains in a cosmetic vehicle (B1) hydrogen peroxide. The molar ratio of the total resorcinol derivative (A1) in the preparation (A) to the total developer-type oxidative dye in the preparation (A), i.e., the molar ratio (A1) / (A2), is at least 1.2. The method is disclosed.

[0009] Furthermore, EP1797865A is a method for dyeing and permanently shaping keratin-containing fibers, particularly human hair. (i) applying an aqueous keratin reducing composition to fibers, wherein the aqueous keratin reducing composition comprises at least one keratin reducing compound, and at least one oxidative dye precursor and / or at least one direct dye, (ii) rinsing the fibers after an exposure time Z1 and optionally drying the fibers, (iii) then shaping the fibers using a shaping aid, (iv) finally applying an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing compound to the fibers, and rinsing off the composition again after an exposure time Z2 discloses a method characterized by the above steps.

[0010] However, there still remains a need for a new method for simultaneously shaping and dyeing keratin fibers. PRIOR ART DOCUMENTS PATENT DOCUMENTS

[0011] Patent Document 1 EP3233033A Patent Document 2 EP1797865A Patent Document 3 GB1,026,978 Patent Document 4 GB1,153,196 Patent Document 5 DE2359399 Patent Document 6 JP88-169571 Patent Document 7 JP91-10659 Patent Document 8 WO96 / 15765 Patent Document 9 FR-A-2750048 Patent Document 10 DE3843892 Patent Document 11 DE4133957 Patent Document 12 WO94 / 08969 Patent Document 13 WO94 / 08970 [Patent Document 14] FR-A-2733749 [Patent Document 15] DE19543988 [Non-patent literature]

[0012] [Non-Patent Document 1] Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. [Non-Patent Document 2] Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0013] The object of the present invention is to provide a novel method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair. [Means for solving the problem]

[0014] The object of the present invention described above is a novel method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, (i) Keratin fibers, (a) at least one amino acid other than cysteine ​​or a derivative thereof, (b) at least one alkaline agent, and (c) Optionally, at least one oxidative dye A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition containing and having a pH value greater than 9, (ii) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C, (iii) A step of applying an oxidation composition containing at least one oxidation compound to a keratin fiber. This can be achieved by methods including,

[0015] (a) At least one amino acid may be selected from basic amino acids.

[0016] (a) At least one amino acid may be selected from amino acids having a secondary amino group.

[0017] (a) At least one amino acid may be selected from aminosulfonic acids.

[0018] (a) At least one amino acid may be selected from lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, taurine, glycine, and combinations thereof.

[0019] (b) At least one alkaline agent may include a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent.

[0020] (b) The at least one alkaline agent may include a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent containing sodium hydroxide and at least one organic alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines.

[0021] (b) The mass ratio of at least one inorganic alkaline agent in the alkaline agent to at least one organic alkaline agent may be in the range of 50:1 to 1:5, preferably 30:1 to 1:2, and preferably 10:1 to 1:1.

[0022] (a) At least one amino acid may be present in an amount of 1% to 30% by mass, preferably 2% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the shaping and coloring composition.

[0023] (b) At least one alkaline agent may be present in an amount of 1% to 30% by mass, preferably 3% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the shaping and coloring composition.

[0024] The pH value of the shaping and coloring composition may be in the range of 9.5 to 12, preferably 10 to 11.5, and more preferably 10.5 to 11.

[0025] Step (ii) may be carried out over a period of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

[0026] The method according to the present invention may include an additional step between step (ii) and step (iii) of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition from the keratin fibers.

[0027] The method according to the present invention may not include an additional step between step (ii) and step (iii) of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition from the keratin fibers, and the oxidizing composition may be applied directly onto the shaping and coloring composition applied to the keratin fibers.

[0028] (b) At least one alkaline agent may be ammonia-free.

[0029] The shaping and coloring composition may also contain (c) para-phenylenediamine type oxidative dyes and at least one oxidative dye other than resorcinol and its derivatives.

[0030] The shaping and coloring compositions may be free of any direct dyes. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0031] As a result of diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that keratin fibers, preferably hair, can be shaped and colored simultaneously by a new method including steps (i) to (iii) of the present invention, thereby completing the present invention.

[0032] Therefore, the method according to the present invention is a method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, (i) Keratin fibers, (a) at least one amino acid other than cysteine ​​or a derivative thereof, (b) at least one alkaline agent, and (c) Optionally, at least one oxidative dye A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition containing and having a pH value greater than 9, (ii) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C, (iii) A step of applying an oxidation composition containing at least one oxidation compound to a keratin fiber. This method includes [something].

[0033] In this invention, keratin fibers, particularly hair, can be shaped and colored at the same time, thus offering the significant advantage of reducing the user's treatment time.

[0034] Furthermore, the present invention has the advantage of providing durability for the shaping and coloring of keratin fibers, as provided by the method according to the present invention.

[0035] The method according to the present invention will be described in more detail below.

[0036] [method] The method according to the present invention is for shaping and coloring keratin fibers at the same time. The method according to the present invention may be a cosmetic method and is therefore a non-therapeutic method. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin fibers" includes hair, eyebrows, and eyelashes, and preferably hair.

[0037] The method according to the present invention is (i) A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition to keratin fibers, (ii) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C, (iii) A step of applying the oxidizing composition to keratin fibers Includes.

[0038] The following describes each step in detail.

[0039] {Process (i)} Step (i) in this method is the step of applying the shaping and coloring composition to keratin fibers.

[0040] The shaping and coloring composition can be applied by any conventional means, such as by hand, spray, brush, or comb. The application step may also be a topical application step.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "shaping keratin fibers" herein means straightening, loosening, reshaping, permanently treating, and / or curling keratin fibers, preferably hair. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "coloring keratin fibers" includes dyeing keratin fibers to a desired color, and lightening and / or bleaching keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0042] The shaping and coloring compositions can take various forms, such as solutions, gels, lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, milks, pastes, creams, foams, emulsions (O / W or W / O form), and multiple (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) emulsions. The shaping and coloring compositions are preferably emulsions or creams.

[0043] The shaping and coloring compositions used in the method according to the present invention have a pH value of 9 or higher when measured at 25°C.

[0044] The pH value of the shaping and coloring composition according to the present invention may be 9.5 or higher, preferably 10 or higher, and more preferably 10.5 or higher.

[0045] The pH value of the shaping and coloring composition may be 12 or less, preferably 11.5 or less, and more preferably 11 or less.

[0046] The pH value of the shaping and coloring composition may be in the range of 9.5 to 12, preferably 10 to 11.5, and more preferably 10.5 to 11.

[0047] The shaping and coloring composition comprises (a) at least one amino acid or its derivative, and (b) at least one alkaline agent. The shaping and coloring composition optionally comprises (c) at least one optional oxidative dye. Therefore, the shaping and coloring composition may or may not contain (c) at least one optional oxidative dye.

[0048] The components of the composition are described in detail below.

[0049] (Amino acids or their derivatives) The shaping and coloring compositions include (a) at least one amino acid other than cysteine ​​or a derivative thereof. Two or more types of amino acids and / or derivatives thereof may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of amino acid or its derivative may be used, or a combination of different types of amino acids or their derivatives may be used.

[0050] (a) an amino acid that can be used in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one amine group and at least one acidic functional group.

[0051] The acidic functional group may be a carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, or phosphoric acid, and is preferably a carboxylic acid.

[0052] The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, or a tertiary amino group, preferably a primary amino group or a secondary amino group, and more preferably a secondary amino group.

[0053] (a) The amino acid may be in D or L form.

[0054] The (a) amino acid that can be used in accordance with the present invention may be an α-amino acid, a β-amino acid, or a γ-amino acid. The amino acid is preferably selected from α-amino acids, in which an amino group is bonded to a carbon atom to which a carboxyl group is bonded.

[0055] The α-amino acid may be selected from acyclic α-amino acids or cyclic α-amino acids.

[0056] The α-amino acid is represented by the following formula:

[0057]

Chemical Formula

[0058] [wherein, when p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group optionally containing one or several nitrogen atoms, a heterocyclic moiety, or an aromatic group, or when p=1, R together with the nitrogen atom of -N(H) p can form a heterocyclic ring. The heterocyclic ring is preferably a saturated 5-membered ring optionally substituted with one or more C 1~4 alkyl groups or hydroxyl groups] The α-amino acid may be represented by the above formula.

[0059] Preferably, the aliphatic group is a linear or branched C 1~4 alkyl group; a linear or branched C 1~4 hydroxyalkyl group; a linear or branched C 1~4 aminoalkyl group; a linear or branched (C 1~4 alkyl)thio(C 1~4 )alkyl group; a linear or branched C 2~4 carboxyalkyl group; a linear or branched ureidoalkyl group, a linear or branched guanidinoalkyl group, a linear or branched imidazoloalkyl group, or a linear or branched indolylalkyl group, and the alkyl moiety of these last four groups contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0060] Preferably, the aromatic group is a C6 aryl group or a C 7~10 aralkyl group, and the aromatic nucleus is optionally substituted with one or more C 1~4 alkyl groups or hydroxyl groups.

[0061] The α-amino acid may be selected from acyclic α-amino acids or from cyclic α-amino acids.

[0062] The acyclic α-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.

[0063] The cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids, such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acids (pyroglutamic acid or pyruduric acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acids can be formed by intermolecular condensation between the amino group and the carboxyl group of glutamic acid.

[0064] (a) The amino acid may be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, and neutral amino acids. Acidic amino acids typically have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Basic amino acids typically have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. The number of amino groups and the number of carboxyl groups are the same in neutral amino acids.

[0065] (a) The amino acid may preferably be selected from basic amino acids. The basic amino acid contains an additional amine functional group which may optionally be included in the ring or ureid functional group. Such a basic amino acid is preferably of the following formula (A):

[0066] [ka]

[0067] [In the formula, R represents a group selected from the following:] It can be selected from the equivalent options.

[0068] [ka]

[0069] The compound corresponding to formula (A) may be histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline. The basic amino acid is preferably selected from lysine, arginine, and histidine.

[0070] (a) The amino acid derivative (amino acid derivative) may be selected from amino acids in which the hydrogen atoms on the nitrogen atom of the amino group and / or the carboxyl group in the amino acid are substituted with at least one substituent.

[0071] Examples of substituents include alkyl groups, acyl groups, alkenyl groups, alkoxyl groups, and alkoxycarbonyl groups.

[0072] The alkyl group may be linear, branched, or cyclic alkyl group. The alkyl group may be linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, ethyl group, propyl group, i-propyl group, and butyl group. On the other hand, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C3-C6 alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group and a cyclohexyl group.

[0073] The acyl group may be a C1-C6 acyl group, such as a formyl group or an acetyl group.

[0074] The alkenyl group may be a C2-C6 alkenyl group, such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group, or a hexenyl group.

[0075] The alkoxy group may be a C1-C6 alkoxy group, such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, or a propoxy group.

[0076] The alkoxycarbonyl group may be a C1-C6 alkoxycarbonyl group, such as a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group, or a propoxycarbonyl group.

[0077] The above substituents may be further substituted with at least one group, such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group, and an aromatic group, such as a phenyl group.

[0078] Alternatively, (a) amino acid derivatives include, for example, acetylated derivatives of amino acids, esterified derivatives of amino acids, halogenated derivatives of amino acids, and oligomers of amino acids, particularly dimers of amino acids. Examples of acetylated derivatives of amino acids include N-acetylaspartic acid, acetylcarnitine, acetylcysteine, N-acetylglutamic acid, and acetylleucine. Examples of esterified derivatives of amino acids include arginine ethyl ester. Examples of alkylated derivatives of amino acids include carbocysteine, methylaspartic acid, and methylglutamic acid. Examples of halogenated derivatives of amino acids include dibromotyrosine. Examples of oligomers of amino acids include glycylglycine.

[0079] In one embodiment, (a) an amino acid may form a salt of an amino acid or a salt of an amino acid derivative.

[0080] (a) The type of salt of an amino acid or amino acid derivative is not limited. The salt may be an acid salt or a basic salt. Examples of acid salts include inorganic acid salts, such as hydrochloride, sulfate, nitrate, and phosphate, and organic acid salts, such as citrate, oxalate, acetate, formate, maleate, and tartrate. Examples of basic salts include inorganic base salts, such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt, and ammonium salt, and organic base salts, such as triethylammonium salt, triethanolammonium salt, pyridinium salt, and diisopropylammonium salt. Sodium salts are preferred.

[0081] In a preferred embodiment, (a) the amino acid is selected from basic amino acids, such as histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline, and is preferably selected from lysine, arginine, and histidine.

[0082] In another preferred embodiment, (a) amino acid is selected from amino acids having a secondary amino group rather than a primary amino group. In this preferred embodiment, (a) amino acid may be selected from proline and its derivatives, for example, hydroxyproline, in particular 4-hydroxyproline, and methylproline, in particular N-methylproline.

[0083] In another preferred embodiment, (a) the amino acid is selected from aminosulfonic acids, for example, taurine.

[0084] In one preferred embodiment, (a) the amino acid is selected from basic amino acids, such as lysine, arginine, and histidine; amino acids having a secondary amino group, such as proline, hydroxyproline, and methylproline; aminosulfonic acids, such as taurine; and combinations thereof.

[0085] In another preferred embodiment, (a) at least one amino acid is selected from lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, taurine, glycine, and combinations thereof.

[0086] The amount of (a) amino acids in the shaping and coloring composition may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 2% by mass or more, and more preferably 3% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0087] The amount of (a) amino acids in the shaping and coloring composition may be 30% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0088] The amount of (a) amino acids in the shaping and coloring composition may be in the range of 1% to 30% by mass, preferably 2% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0089] In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper and lower limits may be used to represent a range of preferred quantities.

[0090] (Alkaline agent) The shaping and coloring compositions according to the present invention contain (b) at least one alkaline agent. Two or more (b) alkaline agents may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of alkaline agent may be used, or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0091] (b) Alkaline agents may cause lanthionination of keratin fibers at high temperatures, which can contribute to the shaping of keratin fibers.

[0092] (b) Alkaline agents are different from (a) amino acids.

[0093] (b) The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. The inorganic alkaline agent can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia; alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, for example, sodium phosphate or monohydrogen phosphate. However, (b) the alkaline agent is preferably not ammonia due to its odor. Therefore, the inorganic alkaline agent is preferably selected from inorganic ammonium salts, for example, ammonium carbonate and ammonium bicarbonate; and alkylammonium hydroxides, for example, tetramethylammonium hydroxide.

[0094] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include alkali metal carbonates or alkali metal bicarbonates, such as sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate, and sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate, alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal silicates or alkali metal metasilicates, such as sodium silicate or potassium silicate, or sodium metasilicate or potassium metasilicate, or mixtures thereof.

[0095] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. The organic alkaline agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkanolamines, monoamines and their derivatives, diamines and their derivatives, polyamines and their derivatives, urea and its derivatives, and guanidine and its derivatives.

[0096] Alkanolamines may include alkanolamine derivatives, alkanolamine salts, or alkanolamine salts.

[0097] Alkanolamines have an alkane structure having at least one hydroxyl group and at least one amino group.

[0098] Examples of alkanolamines include mono-, di-, and tri-ethanolamines. The alkanolamine may be selected from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Alkanolamine derivatives may be selected from alkanolamines in which, if present, the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the alkanolamine is substituted with at least one substituent. Examples of substituents include alkyl groups, alkenyl groups, and alkynyl groups.

[0100] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines, such as mono-, di-, and tri-ethanolamines containing one to three hydroxyalkyl (C1-C4) groups. In particular, the alkanolamine may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0101] As an example of a diamine, consider the following structure:

[0102] [ka]

[0103] [In the formula, R represents an alkylene, such as propylene, which is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and R1, R2, R3, and R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group.] Examples of those described in [reference] can be cited, and 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives can be given as examples.

[0104] In one embodiment of the present invention, (b) the alkaline agent does not contain ammonia.

[0105] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, (b) the alkaline agent comprises at least one alkanolamine.

[0106] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, (b) the alkaline agent comprises two or more types of alkaline agents. In another preferred embodiment, (b) the alkaline agent comprises a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent. In yet another preferred embodiment, (b) the alkaline agent comprises a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent comprising sodium hydroxide and at least one organic alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines.

[0107] (b) The mass ratio of at least one inorganic alkaline agent in the alkaline agent to at least one organic alkaline agent, such as an alkanolamine, is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 50:1 to 1:5, preferably 30:1 to 1:2, and preferably 10:1 to 1:1. In a preferred embodiment, the (b) alkaline agent contains at least one organic alkaline agent, such as an alkanolamine, in a larger amount than the at least one inorganic alkaline agent. The amount of the (b) alkaline agent in the shaping and coloring composition may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, and more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0108] The amount of (b) alkaline agent in the shaping and coloring composition may be 30% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0109] The amount of (b) alkaline agent in the shaping and coloring composition may be in the range of 1% to 30% by mass, preferably 3% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0110] (Oxidation dyes) The shaping and coloring compositions according to the present invention may contain (c) at least one oxidative dye. Two or more (c) oxidative dyes may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of oxidative dye may be used, or a combination of different types of oxidative dyes may be used.

[0111] (c) Oxidative dyes are optional components. The term “optional component” here means that the component may or may not be included.

[0112] If the shaping and coloring composition does not contain (c) an oxidative dye, the method according to the present invention may be for shaping, and lightening and / or bleaching keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0113] Oxidative dyes may be selected from oxidation bases and couplers.

[0114] The oxidation base can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidative staining, preferably from the group consisting of ortho-phenylenediamine, bibases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and acid addition salts thereof.

[0115] - (I) According to the present invention, “double base” is understood to mean a compound that contains at least two aromatic rings and has an amino group and / or a hydroxyl group on the aromatic rings.

[0116] Among the double bases that can be used as an oxidation base in the staining composition according to the present invention, in particular, the following formula (I):

[0117] [ka]

[0118] [In the formula, - Z1 and Z2 are the same or different, and represent a hydroxyl group or an -NH2 group, which may be substituted with a C1-C4 alkyl group or a linking arm Y. - Linking arm Y represents a linear or branched alkylene chain containing 1 to 14 carbon atoms, which may be interspersed with or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulfur, or nitrogen atoms, and may be optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or C1-C6 alkoxy groups. - R5 and R6 represent hydrogen or halogen atoms, C1-C4 alkyl groups, monohydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl) groups, polyhydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl) groups, amino(C1-C4 alkyl) groups, or linking arm Y. - R7, R8, R9, R 10 , R 11 and R 12 [These are identical or different, and represent a hydrogen atom, a linking arm Y, or a C1-C4 alkyl group.] Examples of compounds corresponding to this, and their acid addition salts, can be given, and it is understood that the compound of formula (I) contains only one linkage arm Y per molecule.

[0119] Among the nitrogen-containing groups of formula (I) above, examples include amino, mono(C1-C4)alkylamino, (C1-C4)dialkylamino, (C1-C4)trialkylamino, monohydroxy(C1-C4)alkylamino, imidazolinium, and ammonium groups.

[0120] Among the double bases of formula (I) above, in particular, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)-tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, and their acid addition salts can be mentioned.

[0121] Among these dual bases of formula (I), N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, or one of these acid addition salts is particularly preferred.

[0122] - (II)The following formula (II):

[0123] [ka]

[0124] [In the formula, - R 13 This represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom, such as fluorine, C1-C4 alkyl, monohydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl), (C1-C4)alkoxy(C1-C4)-alkyl, amino(C1-C4 alkyl), or hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylamino-(C1-C4 alkyl) group. - R 14[This represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom, such as fluorine, C1-C4 alkyl, monohydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl), polyhydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl), amino(C1-C4 alkyl), cyano(C1-C4 alkyl), or (C1-C4)alkoxy(C1-C4)alkyl group.] Para-aminophenol equivalent to [the specified compound], and its acid addition salt.

[0125] More specifically, among the para-aminophenols of formula (II) above, we can list para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol, and their acid addition salts.

[0126] - (III) Ortho-aminophenols that can be used as an oxidation base in the context of the present invention are selected in particular from 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-1-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino-1-hydroxy-6-methylbenzene, 5-acetamide-2-aminophenol, and their acid addition salts.

[0127] - (IV) Among the heterocyclic bases that can be used as an oxidation base in the staining composition according to the present invention, more specifically, pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, and acid addition salts thereof can be mentioned.

[0128] More specifically, among pyridine derivatives, examples include compounds described in patents GB1,026,978 and GB1,153,196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-(β-methoxyethyl)amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, and their acid addition salts.

[0129] More specifically, among pyrimidine derivatives, compounds described in, for example, patents DE2359399, JP88-169571 and JP91-10659, or patent application WO96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and pyrazolopyrimidine. Derivatives can be cited, for example, those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2750048, which include pyrazolo[1,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-7-ol, 3- Amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-5-ol, 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo-[1,5-a]pyrimidine-7-ylamino)ethanol, 2-(7-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3-ylamino)ethanol, 2-[(3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-7-yl)-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(7-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]-pyrimidine-3-yl)-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol Examples include 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo-[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo-[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5,N7,N7-tetramethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 3-amino-5-methyl-7-imidazolylpropyl-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]-pyrimidine, their addition salts, and their tautomerized forms if tautomeral equilibrium exists, as well as their acid addition salts.

[0130] More specifically among pyrazole derivatives, compounds described in patents DE3843892 and DE4133957, and patent applications WO94 / 08969, WO94 / 08970, FR-A-2733749 and DE19543988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)-pyrazole, and 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole. 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl) Examples include -3-methylpyrazole, 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and their acid addition salts.

[0131] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be used as oxidation bases, more specifically, diaminopyrazolopyrazolone, and in particular 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H5H-[pyrazolo1,2,a]pyrazole-1-one, and the acid addition salts of these diaminopyrazolopyrazolones are examples.

[0132] The coupler can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidative staining, preferably from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamine, meta-aminophenol, meta-diphenol, naphthol, heterocyclic couplers, and acid addition salts thereof, and may be an oxidative coupler.

[0133] The heterocyclic coupler may be selected from the group consisting of indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolone, indazole, benzimidazole, benzothiazole, benzoxazole, 1,3-benzodioxole, quinoline, and acid addition salts thereof.

[0134] These couplers are, more specifically, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2-chloro-3-amino-6-methylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 1,3-bis(2, Selected from 4-diaminophenoxy)-propane, sesamol, 1-amino-2-methoxy-4,5-methylene-dioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,6-dimethylpyrazolo[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, and acid addition salts thereof.

[0135] Generally, the acid addition salts of the oxidation base and coupler are selected from hydrochlorides, hydrobroms, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfons, phosphates, and acetates.

[0136] In one embodiment of the present invention, (c) the oxidation dye does not contain a large amount of the paraphenylenediamine type oxidation dye. For example, the shaping and coloring composition contains 0.1% by mass or less, preferably 0.05% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.01% by mass of the paraphenylenediamine type oxidation dye. In another embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition does not contain the paraphenylenediamine type oxidation dye.

[0137] As a para-phenylenediamine type oxidation dye, the following formula (A):

[0138] [ka]

[0139] [In the formula, R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, a monohydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl) group, a polyhydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl) group, a (C1-C4) alkoxy(C1-C4) alkyl group, a C1-C4 alkyl group substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl group, or a 4'-aminophenyl group. R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, a monohydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl) group, a polyhydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl) group, a (C1-C4)alkoxy(C1-C4)alkyl group, or a C1-C4 alkyl group substituted with a nitrogen-containing group. R1 and R2 may also form a 5-membered or 6-membered nitrogen-containing heterocycle, which is optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, hydroxyl, or ureido groups, together with the nitrogen atom having them. R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as a chlorine atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, a sulfo group, a carboxyl group, a monohydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl) group, a hydroxy(C1-C4 alkoxy) group, an acetylamino(C1-C4 alkoxy) group, a mesylamino(C1-C4 alkoxy) group, or a carbamoylamino(C1-C4 alkoxy) group. R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a C1-C4 alkyl group. Examples include the acid addition salts thereof.

[0140] Among the nitrogen-containing groups of formula (A) above, examples include amino, mono(C1-C4)alkylamino, (C1-C4)dialkylamino, (C1-C4)trialkylamino, monohydroxy(C1-C4)alkylamino, di(monohydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl)amino, imidazolinium, and ammonium groups.

[0141] Among the para-phenylenediamines in formula (A) above, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N,N-dimethylparaphenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-paraphenylenediamine, Examples include N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methylparaphenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl-β-hydroxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-paraphenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-paraphenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-paraphenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 2-methyl-1-N-β-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N-(4-aminophenyl)-3-hydroxypyrrolidine, 2-[{2-[(4-aminophenyl)amino]ethyl}(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, and their acid addition salts.

[0142] In another embodiment of the present invention, (c) the oxidation dye does not contain large amounts of resorcinol and its derivatives as oxidation dyes. For example, the shaping and coloring composition contains 0.1% by mass or less, preferably 0.05% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.01% by mass of resorcinol and its derivatives. In another embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition does not contain resorcinol and its derivatives.

[0143] Examples of resorcinol derivatives include 4-chlororesorcinol and 2-methylresorcinol.

[0144] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention does not use any direct dyes. In other words, the shaping and coloring composition does not contain a large amount of direct dyes. For example, the shaping and coloring composition contains 0.1% by mass or less, preferably 0.05% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.01% by mass of direct dyes. In another embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition does not contain any direct dyes.

[0145] Examples of direct dyes include natural and synthetic direct dyes. Examples of natural direct dyes include quinone dyes (e.g., lawsone and yuglon), alizarin, purpurin, laccaic acid, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogarin, protocatecaldehyde, indigoids (e.g., indigo), sorghum, isatin, betanin, curcuminoids (e.g., curcumin), spinulosine, various types of chlorophyll and chlorophyllin, hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, safflower dyes (e.g., carthamine), flavonoids (e.g., rutin, quercetin, catechin, epicatechin, morin, apigenidin and sandalwood), anthocyanins (e.g., apigeninidin and apigenin), carotenoids, tannins, orcein, santalin, and cochineal carmine. Examples of synthetic direct dyes include azo, azomethine, methine, carbonyl, azine, nitro(hetero)aryl types, tri(hetero)arylmethane, porphyrin, phthalocyanine, azacarbocyanine, quinone, xanthene, indoamine, and phthalocyanine.

[0146] The amount of (c) oxidative dye in the shaping and coloring composition may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.2% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0147] The amount of (c) oxidative dye in the shaping and coloring composition may be 3% by mass or less, preferably 2% by mass or less, and more preferably 1% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0148] The amount of (c) oxidative dye in the shaping and coloring composition may be in the range of 0.1% to 3% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 2% by mass, and more preferably 0.3% to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0149] {Step (ii)} Step (ii) in this method is the step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C.

[0150] In step (ii), the shaping and coloring composition can be impregnated into the keratin fibers.

[0151] The method for heating keratin fibers is not particularly limited, and any conventional method for heating keratin fibers in the art can be used. For example, keratin fibers can be heated by applying a heating iron or curler, a heater, such as a rollerball or heating cover, or a hair dryer.

[0152] In step (ii), the keratin fibers are heated to a temperature exceeding 40°C.

[0153] If the shaping in this method involves straightening and / or loosening the hair, the keratin fibers may be heated to a temperature of at least 45°C in step (ii). If the shaping in this method involves curling and / or permanentizing the hair, the keratin fibers may be heated to a temperature of at least 50°C, preferably at least 60°C, in step (ii). The heating temperature in step (ii) may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 200°C.

[0154] Heating can generally be carried out over a period of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 45 minutes, and more preferably 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

[0155] In this method, if shaping involves curling and / or permanently treating keratin fibers, it is preferable that the keratin fibers be subjected to mechanical tension for shaping or deformation during heating. Mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to reshape or deform them into the intended shape. For example, mechanical tension may be provided by at least one shaping means selected from the group consisting of curlers, rollers, clips, rods, plates, and irons.

[0156] Optionally, in this method, after step (ii), there may be a step of cooling the heated keratin fibers to ambient temperature.

[0157] {Step (iii)} Step (iii) in this method is the step of applying the oxidizing composition to keratin fibers.

[0158] The oxidizing composition can be applied by any conventional means, such as by hand, spray, brush, or comb. The application step may also be a topical application step.

[0159] The oxidizing composition can take various forms, such as solutions, gels, lotions, serums, suspensions, dispersions, fluids, milks, pastes, creams, foams, emulsions (O / W or W / O form), and multiple (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) emulsions. The oxidizing composition is preferably an emulsion or a cream.

[0160] After applying the oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers, the keratin fibers may be left at room temperature for a certain length of time, typically 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 3 to 50 minutes, more preferably 5 to 40 minutes, if necessary, to allow the composition to penetrate the keratin fibers.

[0161] The oxidizing composition contains at least one oxidizing agent.

[0162] (Oxidizing agent) If two or more oxidizing agents are used, they may be the same or different.

[0163] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, peroxide salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and ferricyanides, as well as perates, such as perborates and persulfates. At least one oxidase enzyme selected from, for example, laccase, peroxidase and two-electron oxidoreductase, such as uricase, may also be used as an oxidizing agent where appropriate, in the presence of their respective donors or cofactors.

[0164] The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0165] In one embodiment, the oxidation composition may contain at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, which may be selected from, for example, alkali metal pyrophosphates and alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, alkali metal stanates and alkaline earth metal stanates, phenacetin, and salts of acids and oxyquinolines, such as oxyquinoline sulfate. In another embodiment, at least one stanate is used in optional combination with at least one pyrophosphate. Salicylic acid and its salts, pyridinedicarboxylic acid and its salts, and paracetamol may also be used.

[0166] In the composition according to the present invention, the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer may be in the range of 0.0001% to 5% by mass, for example, 0.01% to 2% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0167] In the composition according to the present invention, the concentration ratio of hydrogen peroxide to at least one possible stabilizer may be in the range of 0.05:1 to 1,000:1, for example 0.1:1 to 500:1, and even more, for example 1:1 to 200:1.

[0168] The amount of oxidizing agent in the oxidizing composition may be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, and more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0169] The amount of oxidizing agent in the oxidizing composition may be 25% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 15% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0170] The amount of oxidizing agent in the oxidizing composition may be in the range of 1% to 25% by mass, preferably 3% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 15% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0171] (Additional steps) The method according to the present invention may further include at least one optional step. Two or more additional steps may be combined.

[0172] In one embodiment of the present invention, the method according to the present invention may include an additional step of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition, and / or the oxidizing composition, from the keratin fibers. The method for rinsing off the composition is not particularly limited. Generally, the rinsing step is carried out by rinsing off the composition with water, particularly running water. After rinsing, the keratin fibers may be dried. The method for drying the keratin fibers is not particularly limited and may include towel drying and blow-drying using a hairdryer.

[0173] In one embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition is rinsed off after step (ii) and before step (iii). Therefore, in this embodiment, the method includes an additional step between step (ii) and step (iii) to rinse off the shaping and coloring composition from the keratin fibers.

[0174] In another embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition is not rinsed off after step (ii) and before step (iii). In this embodiment, the oxidation composition is applied on top of the shaping and coloring composition applied to the keratin fibers. Therefore, in this embodiment, the method does not include an additional step of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition between step (ii) and step (iii), and the oxidation composition is applied directly on top of the shaping and coloring composition applied to the keratin fibers.

[0175] In this method, if the shaping involves straightening and / or loosening keratin fibers, the method may further include an additional step of straightening the keratin fibers. The method for straightening the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, and any conventional method can be applied. For example, the straightening of keratin fibers can be done using a device such as an iron or hot iron.

[0176] The heating iron preferably has two plates, and the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, so that at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved along the direction of the keratin fibers so that the keratin fibers are straightened.

[0177] The heating iron, and especially the part of it that comes into contact with the keratin fibers, for example, one or more heating plates, preferably have a temperature of over 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably over 100°C and less than 230°C, and even more preferably over 150°C and less than 210°C.

[0178] In one embodiment of the present invention, shaping is the straightening and / or loosening treatment of keratin fibers in the method, and if the method includes an additional step of straightening keratin fibers, the straightening step is performed between step (ii) and step (iii). Therefore, in this embodiment, the method according to the present invention is a method for straightening and / or loosening keratin fibers, preferably hair, and coloring them at the same time. (1) A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition to keratin fibers (step (i)), (2) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C (step (ii)), (3) A step of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition from the keratin fibers, (4) A process to straighten keratin fibers, (5) The step of applying the oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers (step (iii)) This method includes [something].

[0179] In another embodiment of the present invention, shaping is the straightening and / or loosening treatment of keratin fibers in the method, and if the method includes an additional step of straightening keratin fibers, the straightening step is performed after step (iii). Thus, in this embodiment, the method according to the present invention is a method for straightening and / or loosening keratin fibers, preferably hair, and coloring them at the same time. (1) A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition to keratin fibers. (2) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C (step (ii)), (3) The step of applying the oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers (step (iii)) (4) A step of rinsing off the oxidized composition from the keratin fibers, (5) The process of straightening keratin fibers This method includes [something].

[0180] If shaping in this method involves curling and / or permanently treating keratin fibers, the method may further include an additional step of applying mechanical tension for shaping or deformation to the keratin fibers while the keratin fibers are being heated. Thus, in this embodiment, the method according to the present invention is a method for curling and / or permanently treating and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, (1) A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition to keratin fibers (step (i)), (2) A step of applying mechanical tension to keratin fibers for shaping or deformation, (3) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C (step (ii)), (4) A step of applying the oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers (step (iii)), (5) A step of rinsing off the oxidized composition from the keratin fibers. This method includes [something].

[0181] In these embodiments, the keratin fibers may be dried after rinsing off the oxidizing composition.

[0182] (Optional components) The shaping and coloring compositions, as well as the oxidation compositions, may further contain, in addition to the components described above, at least one of the following optional components:

[0183] - water The shaping and coloring compositions, as well as the oxidation compositions, may further contain water.

[0184] The amount of water in the shaping and coloring composition may be 10% by mass or more, preferably 15% by mass or more, and more preferably 20% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0185] The amount of water in the shaping and coloring composition may be 50% by mass or less, preferably 40% by mass or less, and more preferably 35% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0186] The amount of water in the shaping and coloring composition may be in the range of 10% to 50% by mass, preferably 15% to 40% by mass, and more preferably 20% to 35% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0187] The amount of water in the oxidizing composition may be 20% by mass or more, preferably 25% by mass or more, and more preferably 30% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0188] The amount of water in the oxidizing composition may be 70% by mass or less, preferably 60% by mass or less, and more preferably 50% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0189] The amount of water in the oxidizing composition may be in the range of 20% to 70% by mass, preferably 25% to 60% by mass, and more preferably 30% to 50% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0190] - oil The shaping and coloring compositions, as well as the oxidation compositions, may further contain at least one type of oil. Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of oil may be used, or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0191] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid, paste (non-solid), or solid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). The oil preferably includes at least one liquid oil. The oil used in the present invention is preferably in the form of a liquid or paste at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). As the oil, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0192] Among the oils that can be used in the present invention, volatile or non-volatile oils can be mentioned, and these oils may be hydrocarbon oils, and in particular, those of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, aliphatic alcohols, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

[0193] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to mean an oil that mainly contains hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen atoms, nitrogen atoms, sulfur atoms, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon oil does not contain any silicon atoms.

[0194] For the purposes of this invention, "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0195] The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as hydrocarbon oil or silicone oil; a polar oil, such as vegetable or animal oil, and ester or ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0196] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of plant or animal-derived oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.

[0197] Examples of vegetable oils include, for instance, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0198] Vegetable oils may include butters of plant origin. Examples of butters of plant origin include, for example, shea butter or Butyrospermum parkii butter, Nilotica shea butter, garam butter, Borneo butter or fat, or tengkawang taro (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, ilipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), and Ukuba butter (Virola). Examples include butter made from seaweed (sebifera), tucuma butter, kpangnan butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter.

[0199] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0200] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0201] The ester oil is preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C12. 26 Aliphatic monoacid or polyacid and saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C123 26 It is a liquid ester of an aliphatic monoalcohol or polyalcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms in these esters is 10 or more.

[0202] In one embodiment of the present invention, in the case of a monoalcohol ester, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the ester of the present invention is derived is branched.

[0203] Ester oils, which are monoesters of a monoacid and a monoalcohol, can be represented by the formula R1COOR2 [wherein R1 represents a linear or branched, preferably linear fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms; R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, particularly a branched hydrocarbon chain, provided that R1 + R2 ≥ 10].

[0204] Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, examples include ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristate esters, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0205] The ester oil is preferably selected from fatty acid ester oils.

[0206] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic acid or tricarboxylic acid and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, as well as monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids, and nonsugars C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0207] In particular, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactic acid, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate can be mentioned.

[0208] As ester oils, C6~C 30 Preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. The term "sugar" is meant to mean an oxygen-sparing hydrocarbon compound having or not having an aldehyde or ketone functional group, containing several alcohol functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0209] Examples of suitable sugars that can be listed include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, as well as their derivatives, particularly alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, such as methyl glucose.

[0210] Fatty acid sugar esters, in particular, consist of the sugars described above and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C6 sugars.30 Preferably C 12 ~C 22 The group can be selected from those comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. When these compounds are unsaturated, they may have 1 to 3 conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0211] Esters in this modified form may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0212] These esters may be, for example, oleic acid esters, lauric acid esters, palmitic acid esters, myristic acid esters, behenic acid esters, coconut fatty acid esters, stearic acid esters, linoleic acid esters, linolenic acid esters, capric acid esters and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, for example, particularly mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0213] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl (caprylic / capric acid), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] The term "aliphatic alcohol" here refers to any, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C alcohol. 30 This refers to aliphatic alcohols, which are optionally substituted with one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. These compounds, when unsaturated, may contain 1 to 3 conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0215] C8~C 30 Among fatty alcohols, for example, C 12 ~C 22 Fatty alcohols are used. These include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitrail alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, and erucyl alcohol, as well as mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and myristyl alcohol can be used as solid fatty substances. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty substance.

[0216] As ether oil, the following formula: R 1 -OR 2 [In the formula, R 1 and R 2 Each of these independently forms a linear, branched, or cyclic C4-C4 chain. 24 Alkyl alkyl groups, preferably C6-C 18 Alkyl alkyl groups, more preferably C8~C 12 [Indicates an alkyl group] Examples of dialkyl ethers can be given, such as those represented by R. 1 and R 2 It is sometimes preferable that they be the same as

[0217] Examples of linear alkyl groups include butyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, heptyl group, octyl group, nonyl group, decyl group, undecyl group, dodecyl group, tridecyl group, tetradecyl group, pentadecyl group, hexadecyl group, heptadecyl group, octadecyl group, nonadecyl group, eicosyl group, behenyl group, docosyl group, tricosyl group, and tetracosyl group.

[0218] As branched alkyl groups, 1-methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, t-butyl group, 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, 3-methylhexyl group, 5-methylhexyl group, 1-ethylhexyl group, 2-ethylhexyl group, 1-butylpentyl group, 5-methyloctyl group, 1-ethylhexyl group, 2-ethylhexyl group, 1-butylpentyl group, 5-methyloctyl group, 2-butyloctyl group, isotridecyl group, 2-pentylnonyl group, 2-butyl Examples include xyldecyl group, isostearyl group, 2-heptylundecyl group, 2-octyldodecyl group, 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0219] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include cyclohexyl group, 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0220] Examples of artificial triglycerides include caprylcaprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristicate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(caprate / caprylic acid)glyceryl, and tri(caprate / caprylic acid / linolenic acid)glyceryl.

[0221] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0222] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, particularly liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

[0223] These silicone oils may also be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used in this invention are the silicone oils defined above, which contain one or more organic functional groups linked via hydrocarbon groups in their structure. Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in *Chemistry and Technology of Silicones* by Walter Noll (1968), Academic Press. Organopolysiloxanes may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0224] If volatile, the silicone is selected more specifically from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more specifically from the following: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207, or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V2; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158, or by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the name Silsoft 1217, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, for example, Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, which has the following formula.

[0225] [ka]

[0226] Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, for example, a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and (ii) Contains 2 to 9 silicon atoms and is 5 × 10 at 25°C -6 m 2Mention may also be made of linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having a viscosity below / s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the paper published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Volume 91, January 1976, pages 27 to 32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445 Annex C.

[0227] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0228] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: - the 47 and 70 047 series of Silbione® oils or Mirasil® oils, for example 70 047 V 500 000 oil, sold by Rhodia,[|END]] - oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia, - 200 series oils from Dow Corning, for example 60 000 mm 2 DC200 having a viscosity of / s, and - Viscasil® oils from General Electric, and certain oils of the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

[0229] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), for example the 48 series oils from Rhodia.

[0230] Among silicones containing aryl groups, examples include polydiarylsiloxanes, particularly polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as phenylsilicone oil.

[0231] Phenylsilicone oil is given by the following formula:

[0232] [ka]

[0233] [In the formula, R1~R 10 These are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C12 30 Hydrocarbon groups, preferably C1-C 12 A hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C1-C6 hydrocarbon group, particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl group. m, n, p, and q are independent integers between 0 and 900, preferably between 0 and 500, and more preferably between 0 and 100, including both ends. However, the sum of n+m+q is not zero. It may be selected from phenyl silicones.

[0234] Examples that can be given include products sold under the following names: - Silbione® oil 70 641 series manufactured by Rhodia, - Rhodorsil® 70 633 series and 763 series oils manufactured by Rhodia. - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil manufactured by Dow Corning, - Bayer's PK series silicones, for example, product PK20, - Certain oils from General Electric's SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

[0235] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (in the above formula, R1 to R 10 Preferably, (where is methyl, p, q, and n = 0, and m = 1)

[0236] Organically modified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethylene oxy groups and / or polypropylene oxy groups. Examples include the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 manufactured by Union Carbide.

[0237] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from the following: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane. - Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane. - Alkane mixtures, e.g., C9-12 alkanes, C10-13 alkanes, C13-14 alkanes, C13-15 alkanes, C14-17 alkanes, C14-19 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, C18-21 alkanes, C8-9 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-10 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-11 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C9-16 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C10-12 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-14 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C11-15 alkanes / cycloalkanes, C12-13 alkanes / cycloalkanes.

[0238] Preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, and naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0239] In a preferred embodiment, the oil comprises at least one mineral oil.

[0240] The amount of the oil in the shaping and coloring composition may be 20% by mass or more, preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0241] The amount of the oil in the shaping and coloring composition may be 80% by mass or less, preferably 70% by mass or less, more preferably 60% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0242] The amount of the oil in the shaping and coloring composition may be in the range of 20% by mass to 80% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 70% by mass, more preferably 40% by mass to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0243] The amount of the oil in the oxidizing composition may be 20% by mass or more, preferably 25% by mass or more, more preferably 30% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0244] The amount of the oil in the oxidizing composition may be 70% by mass or less, preferably 60% by mass or less, more preferably 50% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0245] The amount of the oil in the oxidizing composition may be in the range of 20% by mass to 70% by mass, preferably 25% by mass to 60% by mass, more preferably 30% by mass to 50% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0246] - Adjuvant Shaping and coloring compositions, as well as oxidizing compositions, may contain or may not contain one or more adjuvants, which are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology. Adjuvants may be selected from physiologically acceptable organic solvents; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, e.g., polyquaternium-10; cationic, anionic, or amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof, e.g., steareth-2; cosmetic active ingredients; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants, e.g., ascorbic acid and sodium metabisulfite; humectants; emollients; free radical scavengers; suspending agents; metal ion chelating agents; chelating agents, e.g., EDTA; fragrances; emollients; dispersants; pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifiers; essential oils; and mixtures thereof.

[0247] Naturally, those skilled in the art will carefully select any adjuvants to be added to the compositions according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties inherently related to the compositions according to the present invention are not adversely affected or substantially affected by the proposed additions.

[0248] The adjuvant may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.01% to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.2% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0249] According to a preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is a method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, (i) Keratin fibers, relative to the total mass of the composition, (a) At least one amino acid or its derivative in an amount of 1% to 30% by mass, (b) at least one alkaline agent in an amount of 1% to 30% by mass, and (c) Optionally, at least one oxidative dye A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition containing and having a pH value greater than 9, (ii) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C, (iii) A step of applying an oxidation composition containing at least one oxidation compound to a keratin fiber. This method includes [something].

[0250] According to a preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is a method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, (i) Keratin fibers, relative to the total mass of the composition, (a) 2% to 20% by mass of basic amino acids, amino acids having a secondary amino group, aminosulfonic acid, and at least one amino acid or derivative thereof selected from combinations thereof. (b) at least one alkaline agent comprising a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent in an amount of 3% to 20% by mass, and (c) Optionally, at least one oxidative dye A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition containing and having a pH value in the range of 9.5 to 12, (ii) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C, (iii) A step of applying an oxidation composition containing at least one oxidation compound to a keratin fiber. This method includes [something].

[0251] According to a preferred embodiment, the method of the present invention is a method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, (i) Keratin fibers, relative to the total mass of the composition, (a) 3% to 10% by mass of at least one amino acid or derivative thereof selected from lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, taurine, and combinations thereof. (b) at least one alkaline agent comprising a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines, in an amount of 5% to 10% by mass, and (c) Optionally, at least one oxidative dye A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition containing and having a pH value in the range of 10 to 11.5, (ii) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C, (iii) A step of applying an oxidation composition containing at least one oxidation compound to a keratin fiber. This method includes [something]. [Examples]

[0252] The present invention will be described in more detail by reference to examples, but this should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

[0253] [Composition] The shaping and coloring compositions and the oxidation composition according to Examples 1-5 (Ex.1-Ex.5) and Comparative Example 1 (Comp.Ex.1) were prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 1 and Table 2 below. All numerical values ​​for the component amounts shown in Table 1 (Table 1) are based on the "mass %" of the raw materials relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0254] [Table 1]

[0255] [Table 2]

[0256] [method] Curled hair samples (2.7g, 21.5cm in length after curling) were prepared for each evaluation. Each of the shaping and coloring compositions from Examples 1-4 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to each hair sample using a brush at a ratio of 2g of composition to 1g of hair.

[0257] After leaving the hair samples at room temperature (25°C) for 15 minutes, the hair samples were heated to 45°C using a rollerball and held at 45°C for 20 minutes.

[0258] After cooling the hair samples to room temperature, the oxidizing composition was applied to the hair samples using a brush at a ratio of 1 g of composition to 1 g of hair. The hair samples were then left at room temperature for 35 minutes. The oxidizing composition was then rinsed off under running water. The hair samples were allowed to air dry under ambient conditions.

[0259] [evaluation] (Effectiveness in straightening hair) The length of hair samples after treatment was measured with a ruler, and the number of curls in the hair samples was visually counted. After treatment, the longer the hair length and the fewer the number of curls, the greater the effect of straightening the hair.

[0260] (Coloring properties) The color difference of treated hair samples after this method was measured using a Konica Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3600A by measuring chromaticity values ​​(L*, a*, b*, lightness / green-red / blue-yellow). ΔE* (ΔL*a*b system, between samples before and after the coloring treatment) was calculated. A larger ΔE* indicates better color characteristics.

[0261] The results are summarized in Table 3 below.

[0262] [Table 3]

[0263] As can be seen from Table 3, the method according to the present invention simultaneously exhibited improved hair straightening effectiveness and good coloring characteristics for hair. These results indicate that the method according to the present invention can improve the deformation characteristics of keratin fibers. Therefore, the method according to the present invention not only straightens hair but also improves the shaping effectiveness of curling and / or permanent treatment.

[0264] [Composition] The shaping and coloring compositions according to Example 5 were prepared by mixing the components listed in Table 4 below. All numerical values ​​for the component amounts shown in Table 4 are based on the "mass %" of the raw materials relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0265] [Table 4]

[0266] [method] Straight hair samples (2.7g, 27cm) were prepared for evaluation. The shaping and coloring composition according to Example 5 was applied to the hair samples using a brush at a ratio of 2g of composition to 1g of hair. The hair samples were then wrapped around a hair rod and heated to 75°C using a rollerball, and held at 75°C for 15 minutes.

[0267] After the hair samples were cooled to room temperature, they were unrolled from the rods, and the oxidizing composition was applied to the hair samples using a brush at a ratio of 1 g of composition to 1 g of hair. The formulation of the oxidizing composition was the same as that used in Example 1 above. The hair samples were then left at room temperature for 50 minutes. The oxidizing composition was then rinsed off under running water. The hair samples were allowed to air dry under ambient conditions.

[0268] [evaluation] (Curl effectiveness) The length of hair samples after treatment was measured with a ruler, and the number of curls in the hair samples was visually counted. After treatment, shorter hair lengths and a higher number of curls were associated with greater curl effectiveness. Measurements were taken immediately after the procedure (T0) and after 28 shampoo washes (T28).

[0269] (Coloring properties) The color difference of treated hair samples after this method was measured using a Konica Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3600A by measuring chromaticity values ​​(L*, a*, b*, lightness / green-red / blue-yellow). ΔE* (ΔL*a*b system, between samples before and after the coloring treatment) was calculated. A larger ΔE* indicates better color characteristics. The results were compared with untreated hair samples. Measurements were performed immediately after this method (T0) and after 28 shampoo washes (T28).

[0270] The results are summarized in Table 5 below.

[0271] [Table 5]

[0272] As can be seen from Table 5, the method according to the present invention was able to simultaneously exhibit persistent curl effectiveness and good coloring properties for hair. These properties also lasted for a long time and could be maintained even after 28 shampoo washes. In particular, even after 28 shampoo washes, the hair maintained its curled shape very well, with a difference of only 1 mm. In addition, since ΔE*(T28-T0) was within 2 (which is good and indicates little change in color), the hair maintained its color very well even after 28 shampoo washes.

[0273] In conclusion, the method according to the present invention is very suitable for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, particularly hair.

Claims

1. A method for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, (i) Keratin fibers, (a) at least one amino acid other than cysteine ​​or a derivative thereof, (b) at least one alkaline agent, and (c) Optionally, at least one oxidative dye A step of applying a shaping and coloring composition containing and having a pH value greater than 9, (ii) A step of heating the keratin fibers to a temperature of at least 40°C, (iii) A step of applying an oxidation composition containing at least one oxidation compound to a keratin fiber. Methods that include...

2. (a) The method according to claim 1, wherein at least one amino acid is selected from basic amino acids.

3. (a) The method according to claim 1, wherein at least one amino acid is selected from amino acids having a secondary amino group.

4. (a) The method according to claim 1, wherein at least one amino acid is selected from aminosulfonic acids.

5. (a) The method according to claim 1, wherein at least one amino acid is selected from lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, taurine, glycine, and combinations thereof.

6. (b) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the alkaline agent comprises a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent.

7. (b) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least one alkaline agent comprises a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent comprising sodium hydroxide and at least one organic alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines.

8. The method according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the mass ratio of at least one inorganic alkaline agent to at least one organic alkaline agent is in the range of 50:1 to 1:5, preferably 30:1 to 1:2, and preferably 10:1 to 1:

1.

9. (a) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein at least one amino acid is present in an amount of 1% to 30% by mass, preferably 2% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the shaping and coloring composition.

10. (b) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein at least one alkaline agent is present in an amount of 1% to 30% by mass, preferably 3% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the shaping and coloring composition.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the pH value of the shaping and coloring composition is in the range of 9.5 to 12, preferably 10 to 11.5, and more preferably 10.5 to 11.

12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein step (ii) is performed over a period of time of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

13. (b) The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein at least one alkaline agent is ammonia-free.

14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the shaping and coloring composition comprises (c) a para-phenylenediamine type oxidative dye and at least one oxidative dye other than resorcinol and its derivatives.

15. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the shaping and coloring composition is free of any direct dyes.

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