A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a modified pullulan-based lipophilic polymer having a high non-volatile oil content.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, more particularly a foundation composition, that ensures long-term fixation over time without leaving a residue, comprising a modified pullulan-based oil-soluble polymer and a mixture of volatile oil and non-volatile oil having a high level of non-volatile oil, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the present invention and a method for makeup and / or care of skin, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin.

Description

Technology Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, more particularly a foundation composition, that ensures long-term fixation over time without leaving a residue, comprising a modified pullulan-based oil-soluble polymer and a mixture of volatile oil and non-volatile oil having a high level of non-volatile oil, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the present invention and a method for applying makeup and / or care of skin, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin. Background Technology

[0002] Foundation formulations are used to improve the skin and conceal unevenness and pores. To maintain a beautiful finish throughout the day, they must have excellent staying power over time.

[0003] Since the COVID-19 pandemic and the subsequent wearing of masks, the characteristic of foundation not transferring onto the mask—also referred to as "transfer-proof" properties—has emerged as an important characteristic for consumers, in addition to the aforementioned fixing and long-lasting properties. Such foundation compositions may include chemical sunscreens that provide UV protection. It is known that oil-based chemical sunscreens degrade the transfer-proof properties of foundation formulations, thereby lowering consumer preference.

[0004] Accordingly, the object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition having excellent effects, including longevity, high coverage, and a comfortable finish, as well as not transferring onto materials that come into contact with the skin (e.g., masks). Furthermore, the composition of the present invention enables the achievement of a high level of UV resistance (UV protection) when containing a UV blocker.

[0005] The inventors have succeeded in combining all these properties by using a pullulan-based lipophilic polymer modified with hydrophobic groups in combination with a high content of non-volatile oil mixed with volatile oil, which leads to excellent uniformity of the resulting film, is non-sticky, and provides excellent fixation throughout the day. Thanks to the good compatibility of the lipophilic polymer / non-volatile oil mixture, a high level of SPF can be ensured even when additional sunscreen is included. Due to the good compatibility between the sunscreen and the dispersion medium, a more uniform film and a higher level of UV protection can be achieved, which is impossible with cosmetic formulations containing a large amount of volatile oil. Furthermore, by limiting the amount of volatile oil, the skin tolerance, comfort (a more comfortable and less dry film), and moisture retention of the cosmetic composition of the present invention are improved.

[0006] Pullulan derivatives modified with hydrophobic groups, such as the pullulan derivative of the present invention, have already been described in makeup compositions. For example, the applicant has already described in application WO 2019 / 115949 the use of trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan combined with a silicone polymer, a mattifying filler, and a volatile oil in a mascara composition that is easy to apply and has improved flexibility and fixation over time. Application KR 2015100201 also describes a very mild water-in-oil cosmetic composition based on a silicone gum or silicone polymer, one or more types selected from urethane polymers, silicone resins, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, and acrylic silicone copolymers. The problem to be solved

[0007] However, in the presence of a mixture of volatile oils and non-volatile oils, when the content of non-volatile oil is high, improving anti-smudging, fixing power over time, and UV blocking properties through the use of pullulan modified with hydrophobic groups according to the present invention has never been described or suggested in existing technology. means of solving the problem

[0008] The first objective of the present invention is

[0009] - At least one lipid-soluble polymer selected from pullulans modified with at least one hydrophobic group,

[0010] - At least one non-volatile oil,

[0011] - Contains at least one volatile oil,

[0012] It is a cosmetic composition in which the non-volatile oil accounts for at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The cosmetic composition of the present invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) type cosmetic emulsion composition. Specific details for implementing the invention

[0014] In the following description, the fat-soluble polymer, also known as a fat-soluble film-forming polymer, is a polymer that is dissolved in a fat phase containing a solid, liquid, or paste-like fatty substance and can form a film after the volatile substances present in the fat phase have evaporated.

[0015] Within the meaning of the present invention, "solid or paste-like fatty substance" is understood to mean a compound that is solid at 25°C or contains a solid fraction, such as butter, wax, paste-like compounds, and mixtures thereof. A paste-like compound is an amorphous fatty compound containing a solid fraction and a liquid fraction at 25°C. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "liquid fatty substance" is understood to mean oil.

[0016] In the following description, the water-soluble polymer, also known as a water-soluble film-forming polymer, is a polymer that dissolves in an aqueous phase and can form a film after volatile substances present in the aqueous phase have evaporated.

[0017] The lipid-soluble polymer of the present invention is pullulan modified with silicon groups and / or hydrocarbon groups.

[0018] In one embodiment, the lipid-soluble polymer is a pullulan modified with a silicon group selected from trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulans.

[0019] In the context of the present invention, "alkyl" is understood to mean a saturated linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group of C1-C20, preferably C1-C12, and more preferably C1-C6. The term "branched" means that at least one lower alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl, is bonded to a linear alkyl chain. Alkyl groups include, for example, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, and n-pentyl.

[0020] Accordingly, advantageously, the lipid-soluble polymer of the present invention is preferably a pullulan modified with a silicon group selected from trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulans having a C1-C6 alkyl group. In this embodiment, the lipid-soluble polymer is more preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (INCI name), which is sold, for example, by SHIN-ETSU under the trade name TSPL-30-ID-F.

[0021] In another embodiment, the lipid-soluble polymer is a pullulan modified with a hydrocarbon group selected from pullulans modified with a C12-C18 hydrocarbon group. In this embodiment, the lipid-soluble polymer is more preferably myristoyl pullulan (INCI name), which is sold, for example, by KATAKURA.

[0022] In an advantageous embodiment, the lipid-soluble polymer selected from pullulans modified with at least one hydrophobic group represents 0.05 to 20 weight%, preferably 0.1 to 15 weight%, more preferably 0.5 to 12 weight% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0023] The cosmetic composition of the present invention also comprises at least one non-volatile oil and at least one volatile oil, wherein the non-volatile oil represents at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0024] These non-volatile and volatile oils may be oils of vegetable, mineral, or synthetic origin. According to a modified embodiment, oils of vegetable origin are preferred.

[0025] Within the meaning of the present invention, "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil that loses at least 4% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 8% by weight, and even more preferably at least 20% by weight, of the total weight of the oil after 60 minutes in a sealed environment at 33°C and 50% humidity according to the protocol described in the following paragraph. A high level of volatile phase, particularly volatile oil, enables a light composition that is easily applied to the skin. The volatile oil is involved in forming a film on the skin during application, and upon evaporation, the film adheres to the skin, feeling like bare skin and not giving the skin a heavy or mask-like sensation.

[0026] Protocol for determining whether oil is volatile:

[0027] Weigh 20 mg of the oil of study onto a 5 cm × 5 cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. Spread the material over the entire plate with your fingers. Then, place the plate in a ventilated, sealed environment controlled to 33°C and 50% humidity via a temperature control device. Perform the test three times for each material. Mass loss during drying is measured after 60 minutes. Mass loss is expressed according to the following formula:

[0028] [Formula 1]

[0029]

[0030] Mass loss = Mass decrease

[0031] During the meal,

[0032] m tx represents the mass remaining at the measured time (t = 60 minutes), and

[0033] m t0 corresponds to the mass initially applied.

[0034] The volatile oil of the present invention may be a hydrocarbon oil. "Hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms. Such oil may optionally contain oxygen atoms (e.g., in ester groups), nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0035] The volatile oil of the present invention may be a hydrocarbon oil selected from linear C8-C16 alkanes such as nonane, decane, undecane, tridecane, tetradecane, and pentadecane, branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, and isohexadecane, and mixtures of these alkanes.

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the alkanes used in the context of the present invention may be obtained from bio-based raw materials. Thus, the alkanes of the present invention may be obtained from conventional chemical methods, such as those obtained from vegetable oils or through synthetic biology from sugars. Examples include methods for producing linear or branched alkanes from palm oil, palm kernel oil, or coconut oil, which produce an alkane mixture containing at least 12 carbon atoms (e.g., C11-C13 or C15-C19). Additionally, methods for producing bio-based isododecanes through enzymatic fermentation from glucose-rich sugar syrups are also known. Through these methods, linear and / or branched alkane mixtures can be obtained, and the relative volatility of such mixtures provides particularly advantageous properties for makeup products applied to the skin, especially in the field of foundations.

[0037] In one embodiment, the volatile oil of the present invention is composed of at least two distinct linear alkanes of C8-C16, each of which is different from each other by at least two carbon atoms. The presence of at least two distinct linear alkanes of C8-C16, each of which is different from each other by at least two carbon atoms, allows for controlling and optimizing the volatility of the composition, thereby ensuring excellent adhesion of the cosmetic composition after applying a makeup film to the skin and controlling the evaporation of the linear C8-C16 alkanes to obtain the desired fixing power.

[0038] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the volatile oil of the present invention is composed of at least two distinct linear alkanes of C8-C16, which are different from each other by at least two carbon atoms, and is selected from the group consisting of nonane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, mixtures of C9-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C10-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C11-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C12-C14 alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0039] In particular, the following C9-C14 alkanes and alkane mixtures are mentioned.

[0040] - A mixture of C11-C13, such as undecane and tridecane, sold by BASF Care Creations under the trade name Cetiol® ultimate,

[0041] - C9-C12, C10-C12, C12-C14, for example, those sold by BIOSYNTHIS under the names VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE) and VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0042] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), particularly those sold by Sasol under the product names PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97, respectively, and

[0043] - A mixture of these.

[0044] When the volatile oil consists of linear C8-C16 alkanes, preferably the content of the C8-C16 alkanes is 15 to 25 weight%, preferably 16 to 22 weight%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0045] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the volatile oil consists of a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes. In this embodiment, the content of C9-C12 alkanes is preferably 10 to 20 weight percent relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and the content of C11-C13 alkanes is preferably 5 to 10 weight percent relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In this embodiment, the volatile oil of the present invention preferably has a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes greater than the total content of linear C11-C13 alkanes, and in particular, the total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes is in the range of 1 to 3 times the total content of linear C11-C13 alkanes relative to the total weight of linear C9-C13 alkanes.

[0046] The volatile oil is advantageously a volatile hydrocarbon oil having a weight loss rate of 60% or more, preferably 80% or more, relative to the total weight of the oil when measured according to the protocol described above in a closed environment at 33°C and 50% humidity after 60 minutes. Particularly advantageously, the volatile oil is isododecane.

[0047] In an advantageous embodiment, the volatile oil is less than 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0048] In the sense of the present invention, "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil that does not satisfy the definition of "volatile oil" within the sense of the present invention as indicated above. In other words, "non-volatile oil" means an oil that shows a loss of less than 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil after 60 minutes in a sealed environment of 33°C and 50% humidity according to the protocol described above.

[0049] The non-volatile oil of the present invention is

[0050] - Silicone oil, preferably a linear silicone oil such as dimethicone, in particular dimethicone 5cS(25°C), and a silicone oil selected from aromatic silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane and mixtures thereof,

[0051] - A dialkyl ether of the following chemical formula R1-O-R2, wherein R1 and R2 are dialkyl ethers representing the same or different linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C20, preferably C6-C12 alkyl chains,

[0052] - Linear or branched alkanes containing at least 17 carbon atoms, such as squalane, liquid paraffin, petroleum jelly, polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, olefin oligomers, and mixtures thereof,

[0053] - A carbonate of the chemical formula R3-OC(=O)-O-R4, wherein R3 and R4 are identical or different linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C20, preferably C6-C12 alkyl chains, carbonates

[0054] - As an ester of a C6-C20 carboxylic acid and a C4-C20 alcohol, preferably a C6-C12 alcohol, preferably a mono-, di-, or tri-ester, which is identical or different linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a propylene glycol fatty acid ester, e.g., propylene glycol dicaprylate and propylene glycol dicaprate; fatty acid alkyl esters, e.g., ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate and isononyl isononanoate; carbonate esters, e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate; fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, e.g., polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate and polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate; Glycerin trifatty acid esters, e.g., glyceryl triethylhexanoate, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl tri(caprylate / caprate) and triheptanoin (also known as triglyceride oil); benzoic acid derivatives, e.g., diisostearyl maleate and alkyl benzoate; salicylic acid derivatives, e.g., ethylhexyl homosalate and salicylates; cinnamic acid derivatives, e.g., octyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, cinoxate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, glyceryl-ethyl-dimethoxycinnamate hexanoate and di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and mixtures thereof,

[0055] - Advantageously fatty alcohols comprising linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C12-C26 chains, preferably octyldodecanol or isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

[0056] - High-grade fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, and

[0057] - Can be selected from a mixture of these.

[0058] Within the meaning of the present invention, "silicon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0059] The non-volatile oil is advantageously selected from dimethicone, in particular dimethicone 5cS (25°C), phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, capric / caprylic triglycerides, dicapryl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco caprylate / caprate, triheptanoin, ethylhexyl salicylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] The non-volatile oil represents at least 15% by weight, preferably 15 to 30% by weight, more preferably 15 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably 15 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0061] In one embodiment, the weight ratio of volatile oil to non-volatile oil is in the range of 1 / 5 to 4 / 5, preferably 2 / 3 to 3 / 4.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.

[0063] In the following description, the water-soluble polymer, also known as a water-soluble film-forming polymer, is a polymer that dissolves in an aqueous phase and can form a film after volatile substances present in the aqueous phase have evaporated.

[0064] The water-soluble polymer of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide, and more preferably is selected from chitosan, pullulan, hydroxypropyl starch, tapioca starch, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0065] Chitosan (INCI name: CHITOSAN) that may be used in the context of the present invention may be completely or partially deacetylated chitin. The molecular mass of the chitosan used is 1,000 to approximately 5,000,000 g·mol -1 , preferably 5,000 to 700,000 g.mol -1 , more preferably 10,000 to 100,000 g / mol -1 The degree of deacetylation of the chitosan can vary from 50% to 99%. The chitosan of the present invention is advantageously selected from fungal chitosan or chitosan of crustacean origin, for example, from crab, lobster, squid, or shrimp. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the chitosan of the present invention is fungal chitosan.

[0066] The pullulan of the present invention (INCI name: PULLULAN) is a natural polysaccharide (sugar polymer) composed of maltotriose units (glucose triholloside), also known as alpha-1,4- / alpha-1,6-glucan. The three glucose units constituting the maltotriose are connected by alpha-1,4 glycosidic bonds, while the maltotriose units are connected by alpha-1,6 glycosidic bonds. The pullulan of the present invention is derived from the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans ( Aureobasidium pullulans It is produced from starch by ).

[0067] The hydroxypropyl starch of the present invention (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH) is advantageously 10 6 Exceeding Da, favorably 10 6 to 10 9 It has a weight-average molecular weight of Da. The weight-average molecular weight can be determined by HPSEC-MALLS (high-performance size exclusion chromatography coupled in-line with multi-angle laser light scattering detection). The hydroxypropyl starch of the present invention is sold, for example, by ROQUETTE.

[0068] The tapioca starch of the present invention (INCI name: TAPIOCA STARCH) is derived from bitter-tasting cassava roots and consists of starch.

[0069] Derivatives of the water-soluble polymer of the present invention may be chitosan PCA, chitosan lactate, N-carboxybutyl chitosan, and hydroxypropyl chitosan (HPCS).

[0070] In an advantageous embodiment, a water-soluble polymer selected from chitosan, pullulan, hydroxypropyl starch, tapioca starch, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof is present in an amount of 0.01 to 7 weight%, preferably 0.05 to 5 weight%, more preferably 0.1 to 3 weight% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0071] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is

[0072] - Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan as a lipid-soluble polymer, and

[0073] - Includes chitosan, pullulan, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof as water-soluble polymers.

[0074] In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is

[0075] - Myristoyl pullulan as a lipid-soluble polymer, and

[0076] - Includes chitosan, hydroxypropyl starch, pullulan, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof as water-soluble polymers.

[0077] In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may include at least one UV filter, preferably selected from oil-soluble organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters, inorganic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] "Hydrophilic organic UV filter" is understood to mean any organic compound that absorbs ultraviolet (UV) rays in the wavelength range of 280 nm to 400 nm, which can be dissolved in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition of the present invention or dispersed in colloidal or micelle form.

[0079] "Oil-soluble organic UV filter" means any organic compound that absorbs ultraviolet rays in the wavelength range of 280 nm to 400 nm, which can be dissolved in oil in a molecular state or dispersed in a colloid or micelle form.

[0080] In an advantageous embodiment, the organic UV filter is present in an amount of 0.05 to 10 weight%, preferably 0.1 to 8 weight%, more preferably 0.5 to 5 weight% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0081] In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may include at least one surfactant, such as a conventional ionic, nonionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic surfactant. The surfactant may be a polyglycerol ester, an alkylated polyethylene glycol, a sorbitan ester, a metal salt of a fatty acid, or a silicone surfactant. In a preferred embodiment, the surfactant of the present invention is preferably alkylated polyethylene glycol, polyglycerol ester, or a mixture thereof, and more preferably polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone and hexadecene and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE, CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE AND HEXADECENE AND PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE) (sold by EVONIK under the trade name ABIL® EM180), PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone It is selected from dimethicone (sold by SHIN-ETSU under the trade name KF-6028), lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and tocopherol (sold by SHIN-ETSU under the trade name KF-6038) and mixtures thereof. In a more preferred embodiment, the surfactant of the present invention is a polyglycerol ester, and more preferably is selected from polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

[0082] In an advantageous embodiment, the surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5 weight%, preferably 0.5 to 4 weight%, more preferably 1 to 3 weight% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0083] In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably contains water in an amount ranging from 5 to 60 weight%, more preferably from 10 to 50 weight%, and even more preferably from 15 to 40 weight% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0084] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also include at least one cosmetic active agent. The cosmetic active agent may be selected particularly from moisturizers, anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, whitening agents, and depigmenting agents. In one embodiment thereof, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain at least one cosmetic active agent in a ratio ranging from 0.01 to 5 weight percent relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0085] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also include cosmetic ingredients such as solid fillers, preservatives, fragrances, or dyes.

[0086] The dye (or coloring agent) is advantageously selected from pigments and pearlescent agents. The particles constituting the pigments and pearlescent agents preferably do not exceed 200 μm in diameter, and more preferably do not exceed 150 μm.

[0087] "Pigment" is a white or colored inorganic or organic particle that is insoluble in an aqueous phase and is used to color and / or opaque a composition containing the pigment, and may be used regardless of whether it is coated. Pigments that may be used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention include optionally surface-treated titanium dioxide, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides and iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, the pigment may have a structure that may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Additionally, the pigment may have a structure that may be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigment of the present invention is iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0088] The term "pearlescent agent" should be understood to mean any form of colored particles, iridescent or non-immature, that are produced or synthesized, particularly from the shells of certain mollusks, and exhibit a color effect through optical interference. Pearlescent agents that may be used in the film-forming composition of the present invention include white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica containing iron oxide, particularly colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica containing ferric blue or chromium oxide, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica containing organic pigments of the types described above, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Additionally, the pearlescent agent may be a mica particle having at least two consecutive layers of metal oxide and / or organic dye superimposed on its surface. Natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride may also be mentioned as examples of pearlescent agents. More specifically, the pearlescent agent may appear or reflect yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper. Advantageously, the pearlescent agent is mica and bismuth oxychloride coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide.

[0089] The dye may be treated with an organic agent that is deposited on the surface of the dye through the evaporation of the solvent, a chemical reaction, or the formation of a covalent bond between the organic agent and the dye. Advantageously, the organic agent is a silicon or an amino acid. The dye is preferably a pigment coated with a silicon layer, more preferably a layer of methicone, dimethicone (also known as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)), hydrogenated dimethicone, a dimethicone-methicone copolymer, an acrylate-dimethicone copolymer, and even more preferably a dimethicone layer. Particularly advantageously, the dye is coated with a dimethicone layer as a pigment selected from iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0090] According to an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a foundation composition, a skincare cream or a skincare base, preferably a foundation composition.

[0091] In addition, the present invention

[0092] (i) a step of preparing a mixture comprising at least one lipid-soluble polymer selected from pullulans modified with at least one hydrophobic group, at least one non-volatile oil and at least one volatile oil, and, optionally, at least one water-soluble polymer selected from chitosan, pullulan, hydroxypropyl starch, tapioca starch, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof, and at least one UV filter; and

[0093] (ii) A method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the present invention, comprising the step of dispersing the mixture obtained in step (i) in an aqueous phase optionally containing one or more cosmetic active ingredients and / or excipients.

[0094] The oil-soluble polymer, volatile oil, non-volatile oil, optional water-soluble polymer, and optional UV filter mixed in step (i) of the method of the present invention are as defined according to the present invention.

[0095] Another object of the present invention relates to a method for applying makeup and / or care of skin and / or protecting skin from ultraviolet rays, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the present invention to at least a part of the body and / or face.

[0096] In addition to the above configuration, the present invention also includes other configurations revealed in the following additional description relating to the preparation of the film-forming composition and the comparative composition according to the present invention.

[0097] Example:

[0098] In the examples, unless otherwise specified, all percentages are expressed as weight percentages, components are expressed by their INCI names, and temperatures are expressed in degrees Celsius.

[0099] Example 1:

[0100] Foundation composition 1 according to the present invention, corresponding to the formulation of Table 1, was prepared.

[0101] Table 1

[0102]

[0103] The composition was prepared according to the following method.

[0104] The component of fatty phase A containing a pullulan derivative was weighed into a main beaker and mixed at room temperature (20°C) using a VMI-RAYNERY stirrer. The inorganic pigment was weighed into a cup, passed through a triple-cylinder mill, and then dispersed into the main beaker using an ULTRA-TURRAX™ disperser. The compound of aqueous phase B was weighed into a beaker and dispersed at room temperature (20°C) using a VMI-RAYNERY. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, phase B was dispersed into phase A at 800 rpm for 30 minutes.

[0105] Composition 1 comprises the following non-volatile oils: phenyl trimethicone, ethylhexyl salicylate, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and dimethicone 5 cS (25°C), which represent 17.85% by weight of the total weight of Composition 1.

[0106] In vivo shedding prevention test evaluation:

[0107] The in vivo transfer-prevention properties of the foundation composition prepared in Example 1 were evaluated according to the following test:

[0108] In vivo anti-smudging tests were performed on four panelists.

[0109] 50 mg of the foundation composition was applied to a 5 × 5 cm area of ​​the forearm and dried for 15 minutes. Then, a tissue was placed over the area where the foundation composition was spread while applying pressure (100 g) with the hand.

[0110] Visual assessment of transfer to tissue:

[0111] metewand:

[0112] +++: No residue

[0113] ++: Very slight residue

[0114] +: Slight residue

[0115] x: Stain on tissue

[0116] In vivo shedding prevention test results:

[0117] Table 2

[0118]

[0119] Example 2:

[0120] Foundation composition 2 according to the present invention, corresponding to the formulation of Table 3, was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1:

[0121] Table 3

[0122]

[0123] Composition 2 comprises the following non-volatile oils: phenyl trimethicone, ethylhexyl salicylate, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and dimethicone 5cS (25°C), which represent 17.9% by weight of the total weight of Composition 2.

[0124] The anti-smudging properties of the foundation compositions prepared in Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 were evaluated according to the test described in Example 1.

[0125] Comparative Example 1:

[0126] A comparative foundation composition was prepared in the same manner as in Example 2 by replacing 2.0 wt% of myristoyl pullulan with 5 wt% of Shin-Etsu's oil-soluble polymer KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylate / dimethicone copolymer) (containing 40% dry extract).

[0127] In vivo shedding prevention test results:

[0128] Table 4

[0129]

[0130] Example 3:

[0131] Foundation composition 3 according to the present invention, corresponding to the formulation of Table 5, was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1:

[0132] Table 5

[0133]

[0134] Composition 3 comprises the following non-volatile oils: phenyl trimethicone, ethylhexyl salicylate, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and dimethicone 5 cS (25°C), which represent 17.9% by weight of the total weight of Composition 3.

[0135] The anti-smudging properties of the foundation compositions prepared in Example 3 and Comparative Example 2 were evaluated according to the test described in Example 1.

[0136] Comparative Example 2:

[0137] A comparative foundation composition according to the present invention was prepared in the same manner as Example 3 by replacing 2.0 wt% of myristoyl pullulan with 2.0 wt% of pullulan.

[0138] In vivo shedding prevention test results:

[0139] Table 6

[0140]

Claims

Claim 1 A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising: - at least one lipid-soluble polymer selected from pullulans modified with at least one hydrophobic group; - at least one non-volatile oil; and - at least one volatile oil, wherein the non-volatile oil constitutes at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Claim 2 A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipid-soluble polymer is a pullulan modified with silicone groups and / or hydrocarbon groups. Claim 3 A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the lipid-soluble polymer is preferably a pullulan modified with a silicon group selected from trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulans having a C1-C6 alkyl group, and the lipid-soluble polymer is more preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan. Claim 4 A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the lipid-soluble polymer is a pullulan modified with a hydrocarbon group selected from pullulans modified with a C12-C18 hydrocarbon group, and the lipid-soluble polymer is more preferably myristoyl pullulan. Claim 5 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising at least one water-soluble polymer, preferably a polysaccharide, more preferably selected from chitosan, pullulan, hydroxypropyl starch, tapioca starch, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. Claim 6 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is an oil that exhibits a loss of less than 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil after 60 minutes in a sealed environment of 33°C and 50% humidity. Claim 7 In any one of claims 1 to 6, the non-volatile oil is a silicone oil selected from: a silicone oil, preferably a linear silicone oil such as dimethicone, particularly dimethicone 5cS (25°C), and an aromatic silicone oil such as phenyl trimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; a dialkyl ether of the following formula R1-O-R2, wherein R1 and R2 represent the same or different linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C20, preferably C6-C12 alkyl chains; a linear or branched alkane comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, such as squalane, liquid paraffin, petroleum jelly, polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, olefin oligomers, and mixtures thereof; a carbonate of the formula R3-OC(=O)-O-R4, wherein R3 and R4 represent the same or different linear or branched, saturated or Unsaturated C4-C20, preferably C6-C12 alkyl chain carbonates; esters of C6-C20 carboxylic acids and C4-C20 alcohols, preferably C6-C12 alcohols, preferably mono-, di-, or tri-esters, which are identical or different linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably propylene glycol fatty acid esters, e.g., propylene glycol dicaprylate and propylene glycol dicaprate; fatty acid alkyl esters, e.g., ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, coco-caprylate / caprate and isononyl isononanoate; carbonate esters, e.g., dicaprylyl carbonate; Fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, e.g., polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, and polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate; glycerin trifatty acid esters, e.g., glyceryl triethylhexanoate, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl tri(caprylate / caprate), and triheptanoin (also known as triglyceride oil);Benzoic acid derivatives, e.g., diisostearyl maleate and alkyl benzoate; salicylic acid derivatives, e.g., ethylhexyl homosalate and salicylate; Cinnamic acid derivatives, e.g., octyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, cinoxate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, glyceryl-ethyl-dimethoxycinnamate hexanoate and di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and mixtures thereof, - advantageously fatty alcohols comprising linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C12-26 chains, preferably octyldodecanol or isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and - mixtures thereof, wherein the nonvolatile oil is more preferably dimethicone, in particular dimethicone 5cS (25°C), A composition characterized by being selected from phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, capric / caprylic triglycerides, dicapryl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco caprylate / caprate, triheptanoin, ethylhexyl salicylate, and mixtures thereof.; Claim 8 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the volatile oil is an oil that loses at least 4% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 8% by weight, and even more preferably at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil after 60 minutes in a sealed environment at 33°C and 50% humidity. Claim 9 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the volatile oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils selected from linear C8-C16 alkanes such as nonane, decane, undecane, tridecane, tetradecane, and pentadecane, branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, and isohexadecane, and mixtures of these alkanes, and wherein the volatile oil is more preferably isododecane. Claim 10 A composition characterized by comprising, preferably, at least one UV filter selected from a lipid-soluble organic UV filter, a hydrophilic organic UV filter, an inorganic UV filter, and a mixture thereof, in any one of claims 1 to 9. Claim 11 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by comprising at least one surfactant selected from conventional ionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic surfactants, preferably polyglycerol esters, alkylated polyethylene glycol, sorbitan esters, metal salts of fatty acids, silicone surfactants, more preferably polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, and mixtures thereof, wherein the surfactant comprises a polyglycerol ester selected from these. Claim 12 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the lipid-soluble polymer represents 0.05 to 20 weight%, preferably 0.1 to 15 weight%, more preferably 0.5 to 12 weight% based on the total weight of the composition. Claim 13 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer represents 0.01 to 7 weight%, preferably 0.05 to 5 weight%, more preferably 0.1 to 3 weight% based on the total weight of the composition. Claim 14 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the non-volatile oil represents 15 to 30 weight%, preferably 15 to 25 weight%, more preferably 15 to 20 weight% based on the total weight of the composition. Claim 15 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the volatile oil represents less than 25% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Claim 16 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the surfactant represents 0.1 to 5 weight%, preferably 0.5 to 4 weight%, more preferably 1 to 3 weight% based on the total weight of the composition. Claim 17 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized by containing water in an amount preferably ranging from 5 to 60 weight%, preferably from 10 to 50 weight%, and more preferably from 15 to 40 weight% relative to the total weight of the composition. Claim 18 A composition characterized in that, in any one of claims 1 to 17, it is a foundation composition, a skincare cream, or a skincare base, preferably a foundation composition. Claim 19 A method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising: (i) preparing a mixture comprising at least one oil-soluble polymer, at least one non-volatile oil, at least one volatile oil, and optionally at least one water-soluble polymer and at least one UV filter as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 18; and (ii) dispersing the mixture obtained in step (i) in an aqueous phase optionally comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients and / or excipients. Claim 20 A method for applying makeup and / or caring for skin, characterized by comprising the step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 to at least a part of the body and / or face.

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