Compositions to improve the condition and / or appearance of keratinised tissue

AU2025206098A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-08-13NOVABIOTICS LTD
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
AU · AU
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2025-01-03
Publication Date
2026-08-13

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic products targeting keratinized tissues like skin, scalp, nails, and hair are limited by the binding capacity and longevity of cationic conditioners, leading to inadequate hydration and quick drying of the hair, and lack of comprehensive improvement in the condition and appearance of these tissues.

Method used

The use of synthetic polymers comprising 20-250 arginines or lysines in a topical aqueous composition that bind to keratin, acting as both cationic and film-forming conditioners to improve hydration and condition of keratinized tissues by neutralizing negative charges and forming a protective film.

Benefits of technology

The polymers effectively improve the appearance and condition of keratinized tissues by enhancing hydration, reducing static electricity, and improving smoothness, shine, and structural integrity, as demonstrated by electron microscopy and crystal violet binding experiments.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to use of a polymer in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. The invention also includes a cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a polymer to the skin, scalp, nails or hair; and an aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair.
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Description

[0001] Compositions to improve the condition and / or appearance of keratinised tissue

[0002] Field of the Invention

[0003] The present invention relates to use of a polymer in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissues, especially of skin, scalp, nails and / or hair.

[0004] The invention also includes a cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a polymer to the skin, scalp, nails or hair; and an aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of skin, scalp, nails and / or hair.

[0005] Background

[0006] Various ingredients are added to cosmetic preparations for skin, nail, scalp and hair to help restore condition and appearance. These ingredients are often complex and naturally sourced.

[0007] A product is considered to be a conditioner if it improves the quality of the surface to which it is applied, particularly if this improvement involves the correction or prevention of certain aspects associated with surface damage.

[0008] Historically, products aimed at improving the condition of keratinised tissue have primarily been aimed at hair, rather than any other keratinised tissues in the body. These products tend to use two types of conditioner ingredients - cationic conditioners or film-forming conditioners. In the context of hair products, cationic conditioners act by neutralization of the negative charges of damaged hair by deposition of positively charged molecules on the hair surface. The softness and smooth appearance of the hair are achieved by the reduction of static electricity of the cuticles. Film-forming conditioners act by deposition of polymers that form a film that fills the defects in cuticles surface and coat the hair shaft, restoring its softness and shine. They can also be positively charged and reduce the static electricity of anionic damaged hair shaft.

[0009] The cationic conditioners used in these hair products are cationic surfactants, typically quaternary ammonium compounds. Due to their positive charges, this type of conditioning agent neutralizes the negative charges of the hair, promoting a decrease in static electricity. The thin film of conditioner that adsorbs at the hair surface flattens the cuticles, making them smooth and improving the softness and shine of the hair. Cationic surfactants are very effective for the conditioning of chemically treated hair because of their density of negative charges. Several quaternary ammonium salts are commonly used as conditioning agents in hair care formulations, such as cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride. However, they are limited in how cationic they can be, which means that their binding to the hair is limited, and the effects thereof may not last long. Furthermore, they can only bind a limited amount of water which reduces hydration of the surface of the hair which can cause the hair to dry out more quickly.

[0010] Summary of the Invention

[0011] There is a need for improved cosmetic ingredients which target the condition and / or appearance of a wide range of keratinised tissues such as skin, scalp, nails and hair.

[0012] The present invention provides synthetic polymers which target the condition / or appearance of keratinized tissues, especially of skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. The polymers are highly cationic. More so than other cationic synthetic conditioners routinely used in cosmetic products, which avoids the step of cationization of naturally sourced proteins. The cationic charges can bind keratin, and coat and smooth tissues which contain high amounts of keratin such as the skin, scalp, nails and hair. In addition, the polymers bind water molecules increasing hydration of the keratinized tissues, especially of skin, scalp, nails and hair.

[0013] According to a first aspect of the invention there is provided use of a polymer in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue, wherein the polymer comprises 20-250 arginines or lysines.

[0014] According to a further aspect the invention provides a cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a polymer to the skin, scalp, nails or hair, wherein the polymer comprises 20-250 arginines or lysines.

[0015] According to a further aspect the invention provides an aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue wherein the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 arginines or lysines, wherein the composition comprises at least 10% v / v water.

[0016] In one embodiment, the invention provides an aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 arginines or lysines, wherein the composition comprises at least 25% v / v water.

[0017] In one embodiment, the aqueous composition is a topical composition.

[0018] In a further aspect of the invention there is provided use of an aqueous composition as defined above for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue. In a further aspect of the invention there is provided a cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition as defined above.

[0019] Suitably in any of the above aspects, ‘a polymer’ is interpreted to mean ‘at least one polymer’ is present in the composition, and wherein each polymer comprises 20-250 arginines or lysines. Any references herein to ‘the polymer’ may refer to each polymer in the composition. Suitably arginine ‘or’ lysine is interpreted to mean that each polymer may comprise arginine, lysine, or both arginine and lysine.

[0020] Suitably in one embodiment of any of the above aspects, the keratinized tissue is selected from skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Suitably therefore the application is to skin, scalp, nails, and / or hair.

[0021] In one embodiment, the keratinized tissue may be selected from skin, scalp, and / or hair.

[0022] Alternatively, in any of the above aspects, the keratinized tissue is nails.

[0023] Suitably in any of the above aspects, the polymer or composition may be for improving the condition and / or appearance of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Suitably in any of the above aspects, the polymer or composition may be for improving the condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair.

[0024] Further features of the aspects and embodiments of the invention will now be described under the following headed sections. Any of the features under any section may be combined in any workable embodiment.

[0025] Detailed description

[0026] Use

[0027] By use is meant cosmetic use, to improve the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as nail, hair, scalp and / or skin. Suitably to improve the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as nail, hair, scalp and / or skin of a subject.

[0028] Suitably a cosmetic use may be interpreted to exclude any medical uses of the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein. Suitably therefore the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may not be used for the prevention or treatment of any medical condition or disease. Suitably therefore the uses described herein may be non-medical uses.

[0029] Cosmetic method

[0030] The composition may be used in a cosmetic method of treatment of the keratinized tissue such as nail, scalp, hair and / or skin. Suitably to improve the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as nail, hair, scalp and / or skin of a subject. Suitably by topical application to the keratinized tissue such as nail, hair, scalp and / or skin of the subject.

[0031] By cosmetic is meant non-medical treatment to improve the appearance of the keratinized tissue such as nail, hair or skin, and / or the condition of the keratinized tissue such as nail, hair or skin. Suitably a cosmetic method may be interpreted to exclude any medical methods comprising the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein. Suitably therefore the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may not be used in a method of prevention or treatment of any medical condition or disease. Suitably therefore the methods described herein may be non-medical methods.

[0032] Suitably the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may improve the appearance / and or condition of keratinised tissue. Suitably of any keratinised tissue.

[0033] In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the nail. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the scalp. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the skin.

[0034] In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the nail and hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the nail and skin. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the nail and / or scalp. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the skin and / or hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may be used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the skin and / or scalp. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the hair and / or scalp. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the nail, skin and / or hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the nail, scalp and / or hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the nail, scalp and / or skin.

[0035] In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the appearance and / or condition of the scalp, skin and / or hair.

[0036] By an improvement in condition it is meant an improvement in the quality of the surface the polymer or composition is applied to, i.e. improvement in the quality of the surface of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Suitably this may include correction or prevention of structural damage of the keratinized tissue such as nail, hair, scalp and / or skin. Suitably the polymer or composition may be used to condition the keratinized tissue such as nail, hair, scalp and / or skin of the subject. Suitably the polymer or composition may improve the quality of the surface of keratinised tissue. Suitably the polymer or composition may include correction or prevention of structural damage of keratinised tissue.

[0037] Where the polymer or composition is used to improve the condition of a keratinised tissue, such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, the composition may act as a cationic conditioner or a film-forming conditioner. Cationic conditioners act by neutralisation of the negative charges of a damaged surface by deposition of positively charged molecules on the surface. The softness and smooth appearance of the surface, such as hair, are achieved by the reduction of static electricity of the surface, specifically the hair cuticles or a nail. Suitably therefore the polymer or composition may be used to condition the keratinised tissue, such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by acting as a cationic conditioner. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may be used to improve the condition of the hair by acting as a cationic conditioner. Filmforming conditioners act by deposition of polymers that form a film that fills the defects in a surface and coats the surface such as a hair shaft, restoring its softness and shine. Film-forming conditioners can also be positively charged and reduced the static electricity of an anionic damaged surface. Suitably therefore the polymer or composition may be used to condition the a keratinised tissue, such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by acting as a film-forming conditioner. In one embodiment, the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein may used to improve the condition of hair by acting as a film-forming conditioner. Suitably improvement of the appearance of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, and / or the condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair may be by improving the hydration of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nail and / or hair. Improving the appearance and / or condition may include improving the health of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, hair, scalp and / or nails, for example by boosting the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, hair and / or nail barrier function. Improving the appearance and / or condition can result in increased smoothness of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Suitably improvement of the appearance and / or condition of the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair may include increasing the strength of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Suitably improvement of the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair may include increasing the brightness of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Suitably improvement of the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair may include increasing the smoothness of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Suitably improvement of the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair may include reducing discolouration of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Suitably improvement of the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair may include increasing the shine of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair.

[0038] Suitably improvement of the appearance of keratinised tissue, and / or the condition of the keratinised tissue may be by improving the hydration of the keratinised tissue. Improving the appearance and / or condition may include improving the health of the keratinised tissue. Suitably improvement of the appearance of keratinised tissue, and / or the condition of the keratinised tissue may be by improving the strength of the keratinised tissue. Suitably improvement of the appearance of keratinised tissue, and / or the condition of the keratinised tissue may be by improving the brightness of the keratinised tissue. Suitably improvement of the appearance of keratinised tissue, and / or the condition of the keratinised tissue may be by increasing the smoothness of the keratinised tissue. Suitably improvement of the appearance and / or condition of the keratinised tissue may include reducing discolouration of the keratinised tissue. Suitably improvement of the appearance and / or condition of the keratinised tissue may include increasing the shine of the keratinised tissue .

[0039] Improvements in the appearance of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair may be visualised at an ultrastructure level, for example, with an electron microscope, suitably as exemplified herein. Improvements in the appearance of the keratinised tissue and / or condition of the keratinised tissue may be visualised at an ultrastructure level, for example, with an electron microscope, suitably as exemplified herein. Suitably, the polymer or composition (suitable for topical application to the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair) may improve the cosmetic appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by binding with keratin in the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. Skin, hair and nails contain keratin and cationic polymers interact with the keratin, as explained above. Keratin is negatively charged and therefore cationic polymers interact and / or bind with keratin. In one embodiment, the polymer or composition (suitable for topical application to the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair) improves the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by binding with keratin. Specifically, suitably the polymer within the aqueous composition may improve the cosmetic appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by binding with keratin in the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or composition (suitable for topical application to the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair) improves the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by binding with keratin and conditioning the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or composition (suitable for topical application to the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair) improves the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by binding with keratin and reducing the static charge of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, suitably of the surface of the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or composition (suitable for topical application to the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair) improves the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by binding with keratin and neutralising the negative charge of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, suitably of the surface of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair. In one embodiment, the polymer or composition (suitable for topical application to the skin, scalp, nails and / or hair) improves the appearance and / or condition of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair by binding with keratin and forming a film or coating over the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, suitably over the surface of the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair.

[0040] Suitably therefore the polymer is able to bind to keratin. Suitable means of determining whether a polymer is able to bind to keratin are shown in the examples herein.

[0041] Suitably any improvement or increase referred to above and which may result from the polymer or aqueous composition thereof described herein, is relative to the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair of the same subject prior to topical application of the polymer or aqueous composition thereof. Composition

[0042] Suitably a polymer as described herein may be comprised within an aqueous composition. The composition is aqueous meaning it comprises water. Suitably the aqueous composition comprising a polymer of the invention may comprise any suitable amount of water.

[0043] For example, use of a polymer in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of nails wherein the polymer comprises 20-250 arginines or lysines; or a cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of skin, nails and / or hair, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a polymer to the nails, wherein the polymer comprises 20-250 arginines or lysines, the composition may comprise 25% v / v water.

[0044] Suitably the composition may comprise at least about 10% v / v water, Suitably the composition may comprise at least about 15% v / v water, Suitably the composition may comprise at least about 20% v / v water, suitably the composition may comprise at least about 25% v / v water, suitably the composition may comprise at least about 30% v / v water, suitably the composition may comprise at least about 35% v / v water, suitably the composition may comprise at least about 40% v / v water, suitably the composition may comprise at least about 45% v / v water, suitably the composition may comprise at least about 50% v / v water.

[0045] Suitably the composition may comprise between about 10%-50% v / v water, optionally between about 15-50% v / v water, optionally between about 20-50% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 50% v / v water. Suitably the composition may comprise between about 25 and 45% v / v water. Suitably the composition may comprise between about 25 and 40% v / v water. Suitably the composition may comprise between about 25 and 35% v / v water. Suitably the composition may comprise between about 25 and 30% v / v water.

[0046] In one embodiment, the composition comprises about 25% v / v water.

[0047] In one embodiment, the composition comprises about 45-50% v / v water.

[0048] The composition may comprise 0.0001-80% of the polymer. The composition may comprise 0.0001 - 70% of the polymer. The composition may comprise 0.0001 - 60% of the polymer. The composition may comprise 0.0001 - 50% of the polymer. The composition may comprise 0.0001 - 40% of the polymer. The composition may comprise 0.0001 - 30% of the polymer. Suitably the composition may comprise about 0.05, 0.1 , 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, or 80% of the polymer. The composition may comprise 0.0001-20% of the polymer. For example 0.05, 0.1 , 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 , 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 or 20%. For example, the composition may comprise between 5-15%; or 8-12% of the polymer. The percentage is weight to volume (w / v). That is, weight of the polymer in grams divided by the volume of the final solution in millilitres multiplied by 100.

[0049] Suitably the composition comprises between 0.001% and 0.5% v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.005% and 0.4% v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.01% and 0.3% v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.02% and 0.2% v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.03% and 0.1% v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.04% and 0.1 % v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.05% and 0.1 % v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.06% and 0.1% v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.07% and 0.1% v / v total polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.075% and 0.1 % v / v total polymer.

[0050] Suitably the composition may comprise a total amount of polymer of 0.0375%, 0.05%, 0.075% or 0.1 % v / v.

[0051] In one embodiment, the composition comprises 0.075% v / v total polymer. Suitably in such an embodiment, the composition is used for fingernails.

[0052] In one embodiment, the composition comprises 0.1% v / v total polymer. Suitably in such an embodiment, the composition is used for toenails.

[0053] Suitably the composition may comprise more than one polymer as described below. Suitably therefore the composition comprises between 0.0005% and 0.25% v / v of each polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.001% and 0.2% v / v of each polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.005% and 0.15% v / v of each polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.01% and 0.1% v / v of each polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.015% and 0.05% v / v of each polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.02% and 0.05% v / v of each polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.025% and 0.05% v / v of each polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.03% and 0.05% v / v of each polymer. Suitably the composition comprises between 0.0375% and 0.05% v / v of each polymer.

[0054] Suitably the composition may comprise 0.0375%, or 0.05% v / v of each polymer.

[0055] In one embodiment, the composition comprises two polymers each at a concentration of 0.0375%. Suitably in such an embodiment, the composition is used for fingernails. In one embodiment, the composition comprises two polymers each at a concentration of 0.05%. Suitably in such an embodiment, the composition is used for toenails.

[0056] By ‘about’ it is meant that the value stated may vary within expected error of measurement, between + / -10% of the stated value.

[0057] The composition may be formulated in a suitable manner for topical application. Suitable such formulations are known in the art, for example the composition may be a cream, liquid, gel, paint, or spray.

[0058] The composition is topical meaning it is for external use, suitably on the skin, e.g. scalp, hair and / or nails. Suitably the skin may include the scalp. Suitably the composition is applied directly onto the skin, e.g. scalp, hair and / or nails. In some embodiments, the composition is for topical application to the skin, optionally the scalp. In some embodiments, the composition is for topical application to the hair. In some embodiments, the composition is for topical application to the nails. In some embodiments, the composition is for topical application to the toenails. In some embodiments, the composition is for topical application to the fingernails.

[0059] Polymer

[0060] The polymer is a synthetic polymer. The polymer comprises or consists of arginines or lysines. The polymer may be a homopolymer of arginine or lysine i.e. consist only of arginines or lysines. Alternatively, the polymer may be a heteropolymer of arginine and lysine. Suitably the polymer may not contain any other monomers, or components, in one particular embodiment the polymer may not contain any other amino acids.

[0061] In one embodiment, the, or each polymer is a homopolymer of arginine or lysine. In one embodiment, the, or each polymer is a homopolymer of arginine. In one embodiment, the, or each polymer is a homopolymer of lysine.

[0062] The composition may comprise more than one polymer. Suitably the composition may comprise a polyarginine polymer and / or a polylysine polymer i.e. poly-arginines or polylysines or both. The composition may comprise, a mixture of said polymers. In one embodiment, the composition may comprise one or more polyarginine polymers. In one embodiment, the composition may comprise one or more polylysine polymers. In one embodiment, the composition may comprise one or more polyarginine and polylysine polymers. In one embodiment the composition comprises two polymers, suitably a first and a second polymer. In one embodiment the composition comprises two polyarginine polymers. In one embodiment, the composition comprises two polylysine polymers.

[0063] Suitably each of the polymer(s) in the composition is between 20-250 amino acids in length. This high number of cationic charges is important. The inventors hypothesise these improve hydration and conditioning by interaction with keratin and / or by binding water molecules within the keratinised tissues. The polymers used in the invention have these cationic charges as a result of the cationic amino acids (arginine or lysine) therefore further cationization is not required. Suitably therefore the polymer is cationic. Suitably therefore the polymer is capable of binding to keratin.

[0064] In some embodiments, the composition comprises or consists of at least one cationic polymer which improves the appearance and / or condition of skin e.g. scalp, hair, and / or nails by interacting with keratin. The polymer(s) may bind with keratin. In some embodiments, the composition comprises or consists of at least one cationic polymer which improve the appearance and / or condition of skin e.g. scalp, hair and / or nails by binding with keratin.

[0065] The polymer(s) may be 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120. 130, 140, 150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200, 210, 220, 230, 240, 250 amino acids in length or any range of these lengths.

[0066] For example, each of the polymer(s) may be 20-100 amino acids in length. For example, each of the polymer(s) may be 20-90 amino acids in length. For example, each of the polymer(s) may be 20-80 amino acids in length. For example, each of the polymer(s) may be 20-90 amino acids in length. For example, each of the polymer(s) may be 20-60 amino acids in length. For example each of the polymer(s) may be 25-55 amino acids in length.

[0067] Suitably the polymer(s) each comprise or consist of between 20-250 arginines and / or lysines. Suitably the polymer(s) each comprise or consist of 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120. 130, 140, 150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200, 210, 220, 230, 240, 250 arginines and / or lysines.

[0068] Suitably the polymer(s) each comprise or consist of 20-100, 20-90, 20-80, 20-70, 20-60, or 25-55 arginines and / or lysines. In some embodiments, the polymer(s) each comprise or consist of between 101-250 arginines and / or lysines.

[0069] Suitably the entire length of the or each polymer is formed of arginines and / or lysines.

[0070] In one embodiment therefore the or each polymer is between 25-55 amino acids in length and consists of arginines and / or lysines. In one embodiment, the composition comprises a first polymer comprising or consisting of 20- 250 arginines and a second polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 arginines. In one embodiment, the composition comprises a first polymer comprising or consisting of 20-55 lysines and a second polymer comprising or consisting of 20-55 lysines. In one embodiment, the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 30 arginines, for example Polyarginine 30. In one embodiment, the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 50 arginines, for example Polyarginine 50. In one embodiment, the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 30 lysines, for example Polylysine 30. In one embodiment, the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 50 lysines, for example Polylysine 50. In one embodiment the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 30 arginines and a polymer comprising or consisting of 50 arginines, for example Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50. In one embodiment the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 30 lysines and a polymer comprising or consisting of 50 lysines, for example Polylysine 30 and Polylysine 50. In one embodiment the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 30 arginines and a polymer comprising or consisting of 30 lysines, for example Polyarginine 30 and Polylysine 30. In one embodiment the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 50 arginines and a polymer comprising or consisting of 50 lysines, for example Polyarginine 50 and Polylysine 50. In one embodiment the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 30 arginines and a polymer comprising or consisting of 50 lysines, for example Polyarginine 30 and Polylysine 50. In one embodiment the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 50 arginines and a polymer comprising or consisting of 30 lysines, for example Polyarginine 50 and Polylysine 30. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a first polymer consisting of 30 arginines and a second polymer consisting of 50 arginines.

[0071] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a first polymer consisting of 30 lysines and a second polymer consisting of 50 lysines.

[0072] The amino acids (monomers) in the polymer may be D or L amino acids. Suitably therefore the arginines and lysines in the polymer are D or L amino acids. For example, the amino acids in the polymer may be 90% or 95%, 98%, 99% or 100% L amino acids. The definition of the polymer also includes salts of the above amino acids.

[0073] The polymers are non-naturally occurring. By "non-naturally occurring" means the polymers comprise an amino acid sequence that is not found in nature. The polymer(s) may be capped. For example at the N-terminus and / or at the C-terminus. For example, the C-terminal carboxyl group of the last amino acid in the polymer may be amidated; and / or the N-terminal amine (of the first amino acid of the polymer) may be acetylated. By capped is meant a covalent modification of the free amine and carboxyl groups after synthesizing the polymer to protect against degradation / further chemical reactions.

[0074] The polymer may be linear, i.e. unbranched; or the polymer may be branched.

[0075] The monomers (arginines or lysines) are connected by peptide bonds to form the polymer. That is, lysines are connected to each other by peptide bonds to form a polylysine homopolymer. Arginine monomers are connected to each other by peptide bonds to form a polyarginine homopolymer. Alternatively, lysines and arginines may be connected to each other by peptide bonds to form a heteropolymer.

[0076] Other substances in the composition

[0077] The composition may also comprise further ingredients. Suitably the further ingredients are one or more cosmetically approved ingredients, suitably which are commonly used in cosmetic products.

[0078] For example, the composition may comprise any one or more of the following: vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s), provitamin(s), hyaluronic acid or coenzyme Q10. By vitamin derivative includes for example tocophenyl acetate (vitamin E derivative) and / or retinol (vitamin A derivative).

[0079] Suitably the composition may comprise any one or more of the following: an alpha hydroxy acid such as lactic acid, collagen, polyethylene glycol (PEG), keratin and biotin.

[0080] The alpha hydroxy acid may be selected from: glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and hydroxycaproic acid (HCA). For example, when the composition comprises an alpha hydroxy acid, the alpha hydroxy acid may comprise 0.005-10% w / v of the composition. Suitably the alpha hydroxy acid may comprise between 0.01-8% w / v, 0.5-7%, 1-6%, 2-5%, suitably the alpha hydroxy acid may comprise about 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0008, 0.009, 0.01 , 0.02, 0,03, 0.,04, 0,05, 0,06, 0,07, 0,08, 009, 0.1 , 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0,5, 0.6, 0.7, 0,8, 0.9, 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10% w / v of the composition, suitably around 5% w / v of the composition.

[0081] For example, when the composition comprises collagen, the collagen may comprise up to 0.001- 5% w / v of the composition. Suitably the collagen may comprise between 0.002-4%, 0.003-3%, 0.004-2%, 0.005-1%, 0.01-0.05% of the composition. Suitably the collagen may comprise about 0.001 , 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0008, 0.009, 0.01 , 0.02, 0,03, 0.,04, 0,05, 0,06, 0,07, 0,08, 009, 0.1 , 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0,5, 0.6, 0.7, 0,8, 0.9, 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5% w / v of the composition.

[0082] The PEG may be PEG 1000-6000. The PEG may be PEG 1000, PEG 1500, PEG 2000, PEG3000, PEG 3350, PEG4000, PEG 5000, PEG 6000, PEG 7000 or PEG 8000. That is PEG with an average molecular weight (mwt) of 4000 g / mol or 3000 g / mol respectively, or PEG of a higher average molecular weight, such as PEG6000 or PEG8000. For example, when the composition comprises polyethylene glycol, the polyethylene glycol may comprise between 10- 80% v / v of the composition. For example, the composition may comprise 20-70% PEG or 30- 60% PEG or 40-60% PEG. For example, the composition may comprise about 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 or 80% v / v PEG. Suitably the polyethylene glycol may comprise around 50% v / v of the composition. The PEG may comprise approximately 50% v / v PEG4000. Alternatively, the PEG may comprise approximately 52.5% v / v PEG3000.

[0083] If a higher MW PEG such as PEG 1000 and upwards, these come as solids. Therefore, the concentration can also be referred to as w / v which has the same amount of PEG as v / v. For example, the above formulations with PEGs above PEG1000, e.g. PEG4000, may be referred to as w / v in the formulations.

[0084] For example, when the composition comprises keratin, the keratin may comprise up to 0.001-5% w / v of the composition. Suitably the keratin may comprise between 0.002-4%, 0.003-3%, 0.004- 2%, 0.005-1 %, 0.01-0.05% of the composition. Suitably the keratin may comprise about 0.001 , 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0008, 0.009, 0.01 , 0.02, 0,03, 0.,04, 0,05, 0,06, 0,07, 0,08, 009, 0.1 , 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0,5, 0.6, 0.7, 0,8, 0.9, 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5% w / v of the composition.

[0085] For example, when the composition comprises biotin, the biotin may comprise 0.001-5% v / v of the composition. Suitably the biotin may comprise between 0.002-4%, 0.003-3%, 0.004-2%, 0.005-1 %, 0.01-0.05% of the composition. Suitably the biotin may comprise about 0.001 , 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0008, 0.009, 0.01 , 0.02, 0,03, 0.,04, 0,05, 0,06, 0,07, 0,08, 009, 0.1 , 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0,5, 0.6, 0.7, 0,8, 0.9, 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5% w / v of the composition.

[0086] For example, where the composition is for improving the appearance and / or condition of skin, the composition may further comprise any one or more of the following: an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), such as lactic acid, collagen and / or PEG. Where the composition is for improving the appearance and / or condition of hair or scalp, the composition may further comprise any one or more of the following: keratin, biotin and / or collagen.

[0087] Where the composition is for improving the appearance and / or condition of nails, the composition may further comprise PEG, biotin or keratin. For example, the composition for nails may comprise any one or more of the following: PEG, biotin, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), optionally lactic acid and / or keratin.

[0088] The composition may be pH adjusted to a pH within the range 2-5, optionally 3-4.

[0089] By lactic acid it is meant the ingredient added into the composition is lactic acid, which will be present as lactate in the aqueous form of the composition. Suitably therefore lactic acid herein may be referred to as lactate.

[0090] Example compositions

[0091] Preferred embodiments of the present invention are as follows.

[0092] The use of a combination of two polymers in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 arginines and / or lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 arginines and / or lysines.

[0093] The use of a combination of two polymers in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 arginines.

[0094] The use of a combination of two polymers in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 lysines.

[0095] The use of a combination of two polymers in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines. Optionally wherein each polymer is present in an amount of between 0.0375% v / v to 0.05% v / v.

[0096] The use of a combination of two polymers in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of nails wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines, and wherein each polymer is present in an amount of about 0.0375% v / v. Optionally wherein the nail is a fingernail.

[0097] The use of a combination of two polymers in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of nails wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines, and wherein each polymer is present in an amount of about 0.05% v / v. Optionally wherein the nail is a toenail.

[0098] The use of a combination of two polymers in a topical aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the first polymer comprises 30 lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 lysines. Optionally wherein each polymer is present in an amount of between 0.0375% v / v to 0.05% v / v.

[0099] A cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a combination of two polymers to the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails or hair, wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 arginines and / or lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 arginines and / or lysines.

[0100] A cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a combination of two polymers to the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails or hair, wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 arginines.

[0101] A cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a combination of two polymers to the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails or hair, wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 lysines.

[0102] A cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a combination of two polymers to the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails or hair, wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines. Optionally wherein each polymer is present in an amount of between 0.0375% v / v to 0.05% v / v.

[0103] A cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of nails, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a combination of two polymers to the nails, wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines, and wherein each polymer is present in an amount of about 0.0375% v / v. Optionally wherein the nail is a fingernail.

[0104] A cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of nails, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a combination of two polymers to the nails, wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines, and wherein each polymer is present in an amount of about 0.05% v / v. Optionally wherein the nail is a toenail.

[0105] A cosmetic method for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a combination of two polymers to the keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails or hair, wherein the first polymer comprises 30 lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 lysines. Optionally wherein each polymer is present in an amount of between 0.0375% v / v to 0.05% v / v.

[0106] An aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the composition comprises a combination of two polymers, wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 arginines and / or lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 arginines and / or lysines, and wherein the composition comprises at least 10% v / v water.

[0107] An aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the composition comprises a combination of two polymers, wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 arginines, and wherein the composition comprises at least 10%, suitably 25% v / v water.

[0108] An aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the composition comprises a combination of two polymers, wherein the first polymer comprises 20-60 lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 20-60 lysines, and wherein the composition comprises at least 10%, suitably 25% v / v water.

[0109] An aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the composition comprises a combination of two polymers, wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines, and wherein the composition comprises at least 10%, suitably 25% v / v water. Optionally wherein each polymer is present in an amount of between 0.0375% v / v to 0.05% v / v.

[0110] An aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of nails wherein the composition comprises a combination of two polymers, wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines, wherein each polymer is present in an amount of about 0.0375% v / v, and wherein the composition comprises at least 10%, suitably 25% v / v water. Optionally wherein the nail is a fingernail.

[0111] An aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of nails wherein the composition comprises a combination of two polymers, wherein the first polymer comprises 30 arginines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 arginines, wherein each polymer is present in an amount of about 0.05% v / v, and wherein the composition comprises at least 10%, suitably 25% v / v water. Optionally wherein the nail is a toenail.

[0112] An aqueous composition for improving the appearance and / or condition of keratinized tissue such as skin, scalp, nails and / or hair wherein the composition comprises a combination of two polymers, wherein the first polymer comprises 30 lysines, and wherein the second polymer comprises 50 lysines, and wherein the composition comprises at least 10%, suitably 25% v / v water. Optionally wherein each polymer is present in an amount of between 0.0375% v / v to 0.05% v / v.

[0113] Optionally any of the above compositions may comprise one or more of the following: alpha hydroxy acid, lactic acid, collagen, PEG, keratin and / or biotin.

[0114] Any of the below compositions may be used in any of the methods, or uses described above.

[0115] • Aqueous topical composition comprising a polymer, wherein the polymer consists of 20- 60 arginines or lysines; and further comprising at least 10%, suitably at least 25% water (v / v); and optionally further comprising any one or more of the following: alpha hydroxy acid, lactic acid, collagen, PEG, keratin and / or biotin. For use in cosmetic method or use to improve the condition and / or appearance of nails, any of the following further features of the compositions may be used:

[0116] • Compositions comprising at least 10%, suitably at least 25% v / v water;

[0117] • Composition comprising polymer consisting of 20-250 lysines;

[0118] • Composition comprising polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 lysines and 20-250 arginines;

[0119] • Composition comprising polymer comprising or consisting of 101-250 arginines.

[0120] Throughout the specification, unless the context demands otherwise, the terms ‘comprise’ or ‘include’, or variations such as ‘comprises’ or ‘comprising’, ‘includes’ or ‘including’ will be understood to imply the method or kit includes a stated integer or group of integers, but not the exclusion of any other integer or group of integers.

[0121] Each document, reference, patent application or patent cited in this text is expressly incorporated herein in their entirety by reference, which means it should be read and considered by the reader as part of this text. That the document, reference, patent application or patent cited in the text is not repeated in this text is merely for reasons of conciseness. Reference to cited material or information contained in the text should not be understood as a concession that the material or information was part of the common general knowledge or was known in any country.

[0122] Figures

[0123] The invention will now be described with reference to the following figures in which:

[0124] Figure 1 shows a) keratin binding with polyarginine 30 at various concentrations after 6 hours and b) keratin binding with polyarginine 50 at various concentrations after 6 hours.

[0125] Figure 2 shows a) keratin after the addition of polyarginine 30 at various concentrations and the addition of crystal violet at 24 hours and b) keratin after the addition of polyarginine 50 at various concentrations and the addition of crystal violet at 24 hours.

[0126] Figure 3 shows a) the concentration of crystal violet in the supernatant after 6 hours of incubation of 2.5% keratin with polyarginine 30 (PLR30) and polyarginine 50 (PLR50) and b) the concentration of crystal violet in the supernatant after 24 hours of incubation of 2.5% keratin with PLR30 and PLR50. Figure 4 shows a) keratin binding with Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 compared to known cationic conditioning agents at a concentration of 0.1% after 20 minutes and b) keratin binding with Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 compared to known cationic conditioning agents at a concentration of 0.1% after 24 hours. The conditioning agents are as follows: Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 (PLR), Polyquaternium-7 (PQ-7), Cetrimonium chloride (CC), Behentrimonium methasulphate (BTMS-50), H20 control and PEG4000 control.

[0127] Figure 5 shows the concentration of crystal violet in the supernatant after incubation of 2.5% keratin with the conditioning agents for 20 minutes, 2 hours and 24 hours.

[0128] Figure 6 shows the concentration of crystal violet in the supernatant after incubation of 2.5% keratin with PLR30 and PLR50 compared to polyquaternium 7 after 20 minutes, 2 hours and 24 hours.

[0129] Figure 7 shows representative images of keratin binding at 20 minutes after the addition of Polyarginine 30 or 50 or Polylysine 30 or 50 at a) 0.1% b) 0.05% and c) 0.0375% to a 2.5% solution of keratin and a H2O control.

[0130] Figure 8 shows representative images of keratin at a) 6 hours and b) 24 hours after the addition of Polyarginine 30 or 50 or Polylysine 30 or 50 at various concentrations to a 2.5% solution of keratin and a H20 control, with the addition of crystal violet.

[0131] Figure 9 shows the concentration of crystal violet detected in the supernatant of a mixture containing 2.5% keratin with Polyarginine 30 and 50 and Polylysine 30 and 50 after a) 20 minute incubation, b) 2 hour incubation and c) 24 hour incubation.

[0132] Figure 10 shows scanning electron microscopy images of nail fragments treated with a formulation comprising both PLR30 and PLR50 for 7 days compared to an untreated nail fragment.

[0133] Figure 11 shows an excised toenail submerged in a formulation comprising both PLR30 and PLR50 for up to 28 days.

[0134] Figure 12 shows an excised toenail submerged in a formulation comprising both PLR30 and PLR50 for up to 28 days.

[0135] Figure 13 shows a microscopy image at x20 magnification of hair strands treated with water, 0.1 % polyarginine and 0.1% polylysine. Figure 14 shows a microscopy image at x40 magnification of hair strands treated with water, 0.1 % polyarginine and 0.1% polylysine.

[0136] Figure 15 shows crystal violet uptake in hair strands treated with a) 0.1% polyarginine, b) 0.1 % lysine and c) water. Arrows indicate the poor uptake of dye on hair strands treated with polyarginine or polylysine.

[0137] Examples

[0138] Aspects of the present invention will now be illustrated by way of example only and with reference to the following experimentation.

[0139] Example 1 : Keratin binds with Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50

[0140] The inventors investigated the interaction between the polymers in the invention and keratin. Nails are largely made up of keratin polymers and is negatively charged and it is thought that the cationic Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 (PLR30 and PLR50) polymers will interact with the keratin. As polyarginine and crystal violet are both positively charged, they can bind to the negatively charged keratin and competitively inhibit each other from binding. When the polyarginine is exposed to keratin it binds to it and then when the crystal violet is added less crystal violet can bind to the keratin compared to the samples with no polyarginine.

[0141] Method:

[0142] • A 2.5% solution of keratin from sheeps wool was prepared in sterilised deionised water

[0143] • 3ml aliquots of the solution were prepared.

[0144] • To each aliquot, polyarginine 30 or Polyarginine 50 (PLR30 or PLR50) was added at varying concentrations of 0.0375%, 0.05% and 0.1%

[0145] • These concentrations were chosen as :

[0146] 0.0375% is the amount of each polymer for preferred fingernail formulation 0.05% is the amount of each polymer for preferred toenail formulation 0.1% is the total amount of both polymers in preferred toenail formulation

[0147] • After addition of the polymer the aliquots were left at room temperature

[0148] • At 6h and 24h timepoints 1 ml samples were taken from each of the aliquots above and 20ul of crystal violet solution added

[0149] • These were left at room temperature for 1 hour

[0150] • After 1 hour the samples were centrifuged and 10Oul of the supernatant transferred to a 96well plate in triplicate

[0151] • The 96 well plate was read at 562nm Results:

[0152] After addition of polymers the keratin is pulled to the bottom of the tube as can be seen in Figure 1 . This is due to keratin which is negatively charged interacting with the positively charged polymers- this effect is seen at both 6h and 24h (representative image at 6h). However this effect happened quickly - within the first few minutes of addition of polymer suggesting that it starts working quickly.

[0153] Figure 2 shows keratin after the addition of polymer and then after 24h the crystal violet is added and allowed to incubate at room temperature for 1 hour after which time the tubes are centrifuged to pellet the keratin in the solution (representative image at 6h data for 24h also shows same effect). Purple colour in the pellet and no colour in supernatant at 0% suggests that all crystal violet is bound to keratin. Colour in supernatant with addition of polymer to keratin suggests that polymer is bound to keratin and therefore crystal violet cannot bind to keratin and is therefore free in the supernatant. Higher concentration of polymer results in more crystal violet in supernatant as less crystal violet can bind to keratin when polymer present.

[0154] Figure 3 shows that there is more crystal violet detected in the supernatant with higher concentration of polymer indicating that polymer is bound to keratin and therefore crystal violet cannot bind. There is also more crystal violet detected with Polyarginine 30 compared to Polyarginine 50 - this may be due to the size of the molecule allowing interaction with keratin- but both have the same effect. There is no significant difference between the amount of crystal violet in the supernatant (or polymer bound) between 6h and 24h indicating that once bound the polymer stays bound.

[0155] Example 2: Keratin binds with Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 more effectively than known cationic conditioning agents

[0156] The inventors investigated the interaction between the polymers included in the formulations of the invention and keratin, compared to known conditioning agents that are included in cosmetic conditioning products.

[0157] The same experiment was carried out as in Example 1 but with known conditioning agents included and both polymers included together as in the final formulation instead of separately.

[0158] Method:

[0159] • A 5% solution of keratin from sheeps wool was prepared in sterilised deionised water

[0160] • 0.2% solutions of each of the following prepared (it was assumed that CC and PQ-7 were 100% solutions when supplied and so dilutions were carried out accordingly)

[0161] • Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 (PLR30 and PLR50)

[0162] • Polyquaternium-7 (PQ-7) • Cetrimonium chloride (CC)

[0163] • BTMS-50 (Behentrimonium methasulphate)

[0164] • H2O control

[0165] • PEG4000 control

[0166] • Add 2ml of the 0.2% conditioners to a bijou container

[0167] • Add 2ml of 5% keratin solutions

[0168] • This will give 0.1% conditioning agents in 2.5% keratin

[0169] • The aliquots were left at room temperature

[0170] • At 20min, 2h and 24h timepoints 1 ml samples were taken from each of the aliquots above and 20ul of crystal violet solution added and mixed

[0171] • These were left at room temperature for 1 hour

[0172] • After 1 hour the samples were centrifuged and 10Oul of the supernatant transferred to a 96well plate in triplicate

[0173] • The 96 well plate was read at 562nm

[0174] Results:

[0175] As shown in Figure 4, the keratin is pulled to the bottom of the tube, this is also observed with polyquaternium- 7. However, this is not seen with the other cationic conditioning agents, this means that the different known conditioning agents do not interact with keratin in the way the polymers of the invention do.

[0176] Figure 5 shows that there is a higher amount of crystal violet in the supernatant with cetrimonium chloride, followed by Polyarginine 30 & Polyarginine 50 then BTMS-50 and Polyquaternium-7. This may mean that Polyarginine binds to keratin more than BTMS and Polyquaternium but less than Cetrimonium chloride. It would have been expected, that as polyquaternium -7 acts similarly on the keratin to Polyarginine 30 and 50, by pulling it to the bottom of the tube that these would produce similar results in the crystal violet binding, but this is not the case, as there is no excess crystal violet in the supernatant with PQ-7. Only Polyarginine 30 & Polyarginine 50 consistently bind strongly to keratin in both experiments.

[0177] As can be seen in Figure 6, there is a higher amount of crystal violet in the supernatant with 0.1 % total Polyarginine 30 & Polyarginine 50 compared to 2% Polyquaternium -7. This means that Polyarginine still binds to keratin more at the concentrations at which each is typically included in a cosmetic formulation.

[0178] Example 3: Keratin binding with Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 compared to Polylysine 30 and Polylysine 50

[0179] The inventors investigated keratin binding with Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 compared to Polylysine 30 and Polylysine 50. Method:

[0180] A 2.5% solution of keratin from sheeps wool was prepared in sterilised deionised water

[0181] • 3ml aliquots of the solution were prepared.

[0182] • To each aliquot polymer (polyarginine 30 or 50 or Polylysine 30 or 50) was added at varying concentrations of 0, 0.0375%, 0.05% and 0.1%

[0183] • These concentrations were chosen as :

[0184] 0.035% is the amount of each polymer for the preferred fingernail formulation

[0185] 0.05% is the amount of each polymer for the preferred toenail formulation

[0186] 0.1% is the total amount of both polymers in the preferred toenail formulation

[0187] • After addition of the peptide / polymer the aliquots were left at room temperature

[0188] • At 6h and 24h timepoints 1 ml samples were taken from each of the aliquots above and 20ul of crystal violet solution added

[0189] • These were left at room temperature for 1 hour

[0190] • After 1 hour the samples were centrifuged and 10Oul of the supernatant transferred to a 96well plate in triplicate

[0191] • The 96 well plate was read at 562nm

[0192] Results:

[0193] Figures 7 shows images of the tube 20 minutes after the addition of the polymers to keratin. As seen previously after addition of the polymers, the keratin is pulled to the bottom of the tube. This is the case for all concentrations and there is no difference between Polyarginine or Polylysine at 0.05% and 0.0375%. At 0.1 % it appears that for Polylysine 30 the keratin is not pulled to the bottom of the tube as much as in Polyarginine 30 but it may just be that it takes slightly longer. Polyarginine 50 and Polylysine 50 seem to be equally active at this concentration. Images of the tube at various concentrations of polyarginine 30 or 50 and polylysine 30 or 50 is also shown in Figure 8 with the addition of crystal violet.

[0194] Figure 9 shows that as previously seen with Polyarginine 30 and 50, as the concentration increases there is more crystal violet detected in the supernatant indicating that polymer is bound to keratin and therefore crystal violet cannot bind. This is also seen with the Polylysine polymers. For all polymers the degree of binding is similar at 0.0375% and 0.05% but at 0.1% Polyarginine 30 and 50 out perform the Polylysine variants. For Polylysine 50 the amount of crystal violet in the supernatant is similar at all concentrations, as compared to the other polymers in which the crystal violet increases in relation to concentration. There is no significant difference between the amount of crystal violet in the supernatant (polymer bound) between 20minutes, 2h and 24h.

[0195] Example 4: The formulation including Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 improves the ultrastructure of the nail

[0196] The inventors carried out scanning electron microscopy in order to enable visualisation of the effect the polyarginine has on the ultrastructure of a nail and to be able to see the conditioning effects. Prior to microscopy being carried out, 1 excised large toenail was cut into 2 sections.

[0197] The first section was painted with a formulation containing polyarginine 30 and polyarginine 50 at 0.05% each once per day for 7 days. After painting the previous day and before painting again, the nail was cleaned with a cotton swab dipped in water to simulate daily washing. The fragment was then allowed to dry before being painted again with formulation.

[0198] The second section was an untreated nail, in which no formulation was applied but it was washed on a daily basis.

[0199] After 7 days the nails were placed into fixative and sent for microscopy.

[0200] Results:

[0201] As shown in Figure 10 in the SEM photograph, the nail treated with Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 demonstrates vastly improved ultrastructure and conditioning.

[0202] Example 5: The formulation including Polyarginine 30 and Polyarginine 50 improves the cosmetic appearance, texture and hydration of nails

[0203] The aim of this experiment was to assess the appearance of whole excised toenails submerged in formulations of the invention containing polyarginine 30 and polyarginine 50 at 0.05% each for up to 28 days. Submersion ensured maximum exposure to the product. Images were captured prior to exposure to the product and then every 7 days after exposure. As shown in Figures 11 and 12, the nails submerged in the formulation show improved nail texture, reduced discolouration, as well as improved shine and condition of the nail.

[0204] Example 6: Polyarginine and Polylysine improve the condition of hair

[0205] Hair was obtained from a hairdressing salon (a mixture of hair from different individuals) mostly blonde.

[0206] • The hairwas separated into 12, 0.25g samples

[0207] • These were then split into 3 treatment groups comprising approximately the same mixture / equal amounts of hair from different people

[0208] • 4 Samples of 0.25g of pooled hairwas added to 5ml of either 0.1 % polyarginine, 0.1% polylysine or water respectively • The hair was submerged and mixed into the solutions and allowed to incubate at room temperature for 10 minutes

[0209] • After 10 minutes the hair was removed from the above solutions and placed into a petri dish

[0210] • The petri dishes were then placed into the incubator without the lid overnight at 35°C to allow the hair to dry

[0211] • The next morning, strands from of each of the treatment groups were added to microscope slides and examined by microscopy

[0212] Results:

[0213] As can be seen in Figures 13-14, the hair treated with polyarginine and polylysine has improved condition compared to the water control.

[0214] Example 7: Polyarginine and Polylysine bind with keratin in the hair

[0215] In previous experiments with keratin we have used crystal violet to determine the amount of polymer bound to the keratin. In this experiment hair will be used with the same principle. If hair is coated with cationic polymer, it does not allow crystal violet (also positively charged) to bind

[0216] • 0.25g samples of pooled human hair were added to 5ml of 0.1 % polyarginine, 0.1 % polylysine or water

[0217] • These were incubated at room temperature for 10 minutes

[0218] • The hair was removed and then added to a 10% solution of crystal violet and mixed in the solution for ~1 minute

[0219] • The hair was then rinsed with water to remove any unbound dye

[0220] • Then placed onto some white tissue, blotted dry and then left to air dry

[0221] • The hair was then examined for uptake of the dye

[0222] • Images were taken

[0223] Results:

[0224] As can be seen in Figure 15 the hair that has been treated with polyarginine or polylysine has not taken up the dye as well as the water treated hair. This can be seen by the arrows. This is due to the polymers binding to the hair therefore not allowing the crystal violet to bind.

Claims

CLAIMS1 . Use of a polymer in a topical aqueous composition for improving the condition and / or appearance of keratinised tissue wherein the polymer comprises 20-250 arginines or lysines.

2. A cosmetic method for improving the condition and / or appearance of keratinised tissue, wherein the method comprises topical application of an aqueous composition comprising a polymer to the keratinised tissue, wherein the polymer comprises 20-250 arginines or lysines.

3. The use of claim 1 , or the method of claim 2 wherein the polymer consists of 20-250 arginines or lysines.

4. The use of claims 1 or 3, or the method of claims 2-3 wherein the composition comprises between about 10%-50% v / v water, optionally between about 15-50% v / v water, optionally between about 20-50% v / v water, optionally between about 25-50% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 45% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 40% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 35% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 30% v / v water.

5. The use of claims 1 or 3, or the method of claims 2-4 wherein the composition comprises at least 25% v / v water.

6. A topical aqueous composition for improving the condition and / or appearance of keratinised tissue wherein the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 arginines or lysines, and wherein the composition comprises at least 10% v / v water.

7. The topical aqueous composition of claim 6, wherein the composition comprises between about 10%-50% v / v water, optionally between about 15-50% v / v water, optionally between about 20-50% v / v water, optionally between about 25-50% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 45% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 40% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 35% v / v water, optionally between about 25 and 30% v / v water.

8. The topical aqueous composition of claim 6 wherein the composition comprises at least 25% v / v water.

9. The topical aqueous composition of claim 6, 7 or 8, wherein the polymer consists of 20- 250 arginines or lysines.

10. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 arginines and / or a polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 lysines.11 . The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer comprises or consists of 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160, 170, 180, 190, 200, 210, 220, 230, 240, or 250 arginines and / or lysines.

12. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer is a polyarginine consisting of 20-60 arginines; and / or wherein the polymer is a polylysine consisting of 20-60 lysines.

13. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a first polymer and a second polymer.

14. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a first polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 arginines or 20-250 lysines; and a second polymer comprising or consisting of 20-250 arginines or 20-250 lysines.

15. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a first polymer comprising or consisting of 20-60 arginines or 20-60 lysines; and a second polymer comprising or consisting of 20-60 arginines or 20-60 lysines.

16. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a first polymer consisting of 30 arginines or 30 lysines; and a second polymer consisting of 50 arginines or 50 lysines.

17. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of polymer present in the composition is between 0.001 % and 0.5% v / v, optionally the total amount of polymer present in the composition is between 0.005% and 0.4% v / v, optionally the total amount of polymer present in the composition is between 0.01% and 0.3% v / v, optionally the total amount of polymer present in the composition is between 0.02% and 0.2% v / v, optionally the total amount of polymer present in the composition is between 0.03% and 0.1% v / v.

18. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more of any of the following: vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s), provitamin(s), hyaluronic acid and coenzyme Q10.

19. The use, method or composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein: a) the composition is for improving the condition and / or appearance of skin, and wherein the composition further comprises any one or more of the following: an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) optionally lactic acid, collagen, and PEG, or b) the composition is for improving the condition and / or appearance of hair or scalp, and wherein the composition further comprises any one or more of the following: keratin, biotin and collagen; or c) the composition is for improving the condition and / or appearance of nails, and wherein the composition further comprises any one or more of the following: PEG, biotin, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) optionally lactic acid, and keratin.

20. The use or method of any of the preceding claims, wherein the keratinised tissue is selected from skin, scalp, nails, and / or hair.21 . The use or method of any of the preceding claims, wherein the keratinised tissue is selected from skin, scalp and / or hair