Use of a leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract as a cosmetic agent

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract as an active ingredient for improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar present on healthy skin. The scar may be of any type, in particular an acne scar. The invention also relates to cosmetic compositions and methods for improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar using a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract.

Description

[0001] LEPTOSPERMUM POLYGALIFOLIUM HONEY EXTRACT AND ITS USE AS A COSMETIC AGENT

[0002] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0003] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic active ingredients and their uses, in particular for attenuating or reducing the visual appearance of a skin scar.

[0004] CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0005] The skin is the first barrier protecting the body from external aggressions. This organ is composed of several layers of tissue. We distinguish (i) the epidermis which is the outermost part of the skin, (ii) the dermis, a connective tissue made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix which ensures the functions of cohesion and nutrition of the skin, and (iii) the hypodermis made up of adipocytes.

[0006] The epidermis is made up of several cellular layers of keratinocytes. Among others, we distinguish the germinative layer of the epidermis, called the basal layer, containing, in particular, skin stem cells, the spinous layer, Stratum spinosum, made up of several layers of polygonal cells, the granular layer, Stratum granulosum, comprising one to three layers of flattened cells containing cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyaline grains, and finally, the horny layer, Stratum corneum which is composed of anucleated and keratin-rich cells called comeocytes which correspond to the terminal stage of keratinocyte differentiation.

[0007] The outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continually shed and replaced by cells from a lower layer, in a process called desquamation. Cell regeneration of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cell maturation in which cells from the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate through the different layers of the epidermis until they reach the stratum corneum in the form of comeocytes.

[0008] Furthermore, the cells of the stratum corneum are linked together by epidermal lipids. These lipids create a protective barrier and have a hydro-retaining power. The epidermis is, in addition, covered with an emulsion of water and lipids (fats), called a hydrolipidic film. This film, renewed by the secretions of the sebaceous and sweat glands, helps keep the skin supple and acts as an additional barrier against pathogens and irritants. Much more than an external envelope, the skin is a true organ providing a barrier function that protects our body against multiple external aggressions, whether microbiological, chemical or mechanical.

[0009] When the skin barrier is broken, for example following an injury, a healing process is immediately triggered. Healing is a physiological process involving biological mechanisms involving numerous growth factors, adhesion molecules, cell migration, and matrix remodeling and degradation enzymes. The processes involved can be modulated, in particular, depending on the origin of the injury that triggered the healing mechanism.

[0010] Healing can therefore be impacted by many factors, which influence the visual appearance of the final scar. For example, an overproduction of connective tissue, particularly collagen, can lead to a raised scar. Sunken scars are generally observed when the skin has been the site of a skin condition associated with deep inflammation that has altered the skin matrix. Hyperpigmented scars can result from prolonged exposure to the sun during the healing process. Scars can therefore take on different appearances. They can be sunken scars, raised scars, or even colored scars, e.g., hypo-, hyper-pigmented, or pinkish.

[0011] Various methods have been evaluated to make scars less visible. Depending on the type of scar (raised, sunken, and / or pigmented), laser treatments, skin-flattening treatments, such as silicone plates or compression garments, silicone- and panthenol-based gels applied with a massage ball, or cosmetic creams, notably sold under the name "anti-mark cream" or "anti-scar cream," are proposed.

[0012] However, there is currently a need for gentle cosmetic methods to reduce the appearance of scars.

[0013] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0014] The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract as an active agent for improving the aesthetic appearance of a skin scar.

[0015] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be used in particular:

[0016] - to reduce, attenuate or fade the appearance of a skin scar,

[0017] - to reduce the surface area and / or volume of the skin scar, and / or - to normalize the color of the skin scar.

[0018] The extract according to the invention can be used on any type of skin scar. It can be a sunken scar or a raised scar, and / or a scar characterized by hypo- or hyper-pigmentation.

[0019] For example, the skin scar can be chosen from an acne scar, an eczema scar, a surgery scar, a burn scar, an injury scar, and a piercing scar, a tattoo scar and a stretch mark.

[0020] In a particular embodiment, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used as an active agent for attenuating or reducing the appearance of an acne scar, in particular for flattening, reducing the area and / or attenuating the color of an acne scar. In certain embodiments, the scar, in particular the acne scar, is present in a subject with dark skin, preferably of phototype IV, V or VI.

[0021] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be used as an active agent to even out the color and / or smooth the appearance of scarred skin.

[0022] Typically, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition. Its content in the cosmetic composition may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0023] In a particular embodiment, the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is an aqueous extract or a hydroalcoholic extract, preferably obtained by extraction with a water / glycerin mixture.

[0024] Typically, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is applied topically to healthy skin with one or more scars.

[0025] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey can be present as an active ingredient in any type of cosmetic composition. This may include a makeup product or a skincare product, for example a lotion, milk, serum, aqueous or oily gel, emulsion, cream, gel-cream, ointment, balm, cerate, foundation, or blush.

[0026] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition intended to improve the aesthetic appearance of a scar present on healthy skin comprising from 0.01% to 10% by weight of aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium honey.

[0027] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for reducing or improving the appearance of a skin scar present on healthy skin, comprising the application of a Leptospermum polygalîfolîum honey extract, for example an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition, to the scar. The invention also relates to the use of a Leptospermum polygalîfolîum honey extract for the manufacture of a topical composition for improving the aesthetic appearance of a skin scar.

[0028] FIGURES

[0029] Figure 1 shows the results of the ITA° assessment at the scar level after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream at the scar level (mean results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0030] Figure 2 shows the results of ITA° assessment at the scar level after 4 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream at the scar level for dark-skinned volunteers.

[0031] Figure 3 shows the results of L* (brightness) assessment at the scar level after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream at the scar level (mean results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0032] Figure 4 shows the results of a* (redness) assessment at the scars after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream at the scar (mean results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0033] Figure 5 shows the reduction in scar area after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar (mean results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0034] Figure 6 shows the reduction in scar area after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar area for dark-skinned volunteers.

[0035] Figure 7 shows the results of the clinical evaluation carried out by a Dermatologist concerning the appearance of scars after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar (average results obtained for all volunteers on the half-face).

[0036] Figure 8 shows the results of the clinical evaluation carried out by a Dermatologist regarding the appearance of scars after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream or the test cream to the scar area for dark-skinned volunteers.

[0037] Figures 9 and 10 show the evaluation of the Spq parameter after 8 weeks of application of the test cream or the placebo cream. The test cream significantly decreased the Spq parameter and therefore decreased skin roughness at the scars. Figure 9: all volunteers, Figure 10: dark-skinned volunteers.

[0038] Figure 11 shows a diagram representing the results of the volunteer self-assessment study after 8 weeks of application of the placebo cream and the test cream to one half of the face.

[0039] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0040] The genus Leptospermum includes about 80 species of plants belonging to the Myrtaceae family. These are mainly bushes, trees, and shrubs, most of which are endemic to southern Australia. Species are also found native to New Zealand and Southeast Asia. Leptospermums generally have evergreen foliage and numerous small flowers. The best-known species is Leptospermum scoparium, a species endemic to New Zealand. Monofloral honey obtained from the nectar of Leptospermum scoparium flowers, also known as Manuka honey, is used in medicine as an antibacterial and wound-healing agent. Pharmaceutical-grade Manuka honey dressings and ointments have been developed for wound treatment.

[0041] There are other honeys made from Leptospermum nectar, including Jelly Bush honey. Jelly Bush honey is a honey made primarily from the nectar of Leptospermum polygalifolium, a species endemic to Australia.

[0042] Leptospermum polygalifolium nectar honey (or jelly bush honey) has been studied much less than Manuka honey. Some studies have shown that jelly bush honey also exhibits high antibacterial activity due to its high methylglyoxal (MGO) content resulting from the high dihydroxyacetone (DHA) content in the nectar.

[0043] The literature suggests that jelly bush honey has antibacterial properties. However, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey is clearly different from Manuka honey. Studies have shown that Leptospermum polygalifolium honey has a different (quantitative and qualitative) composition of volatile and non-volatile compounds than Manuka honey (Beitlich et al., Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2014, 62, 6435-6444). Beitlich et al. note that jelly bush honey differs from Manuka honey in particular by its higher levels of methoxybenzoic acid, cis-linalool oxide, and 3,4,5-trimethylphenol, the presence of unknown compounds, and its lower level of methoxyacetophenone. Jelly bush honey also has a higher level of leptosporin.

[0044] In general, plants belonging to the genus Leptospermum exhibit great diversity. This is also true for the composition of their nectar, and consequently that of the honey prepared from it. For example, the DHA content and the DHA / sugar ratio in nectar vary greatly from one species to another. (Williams et al., Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2018, 66(42): 11133-11140). The biological activities of honeys made from Leptospermum nectar therefore also vary from one species to another.

[0045] Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extracts are capable of attenuating or reducing the visual appearance of skin scars acquired over several months, i.e. once the healing process is complete. The Applicant has thus shown that the daily application of a cream comprising a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract made it possible to attenuate or even fade the appearance of scars acquired over more than 6 months, after only 4 weeks of application of the cream. Remarkably, the cream comprising a L. polygalifolium honey extract made it possible to reduce the surface area and relief of acne scars and make them less visible by attenuating their coloring, in particular by reducing their pigmentation and redness (Example 2, Figures 1-6). The effect is particularly visible for scars present on dark skin of phototype V or VI (Figures 2 and 6).These results, obtained by spectrophotometric analyses of the skin, were confirmed by a clinical evaluation carried out by a dermatologist, before and after treatment (Figures 7 and 8). The cream containing an extract of L. polygalifolium honey also helped to reduce skin roughness (Figures 9 and 10), by reducing the relief of scars, whether these scars were hollow or volume scars. Finally, the volunteers were able to observe a clear attenuation of the scars present on the half-face treated with the composition containing the extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium honey. The majority of volunteers therefore concluded that the test cream was more effective than the placebo cream in reducing the visual appearance of scars. The test cream proved particularly effective in reducing the size and surface area of ​​scars, in flattening raised scars and in reducing the color of hyperpigmented scars.The majority of volunteers concluded that the test cream generally improved their skin by evening out its tone and smoothing its appearance. Furthermore, volunteers noted that the test cream had a more pleasant texture than the placebo cream without Leptospermum polygalîfolium honey extract (Figure 11).

[0046] Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a Leptospermum polygalîfolîum honey extract as an agent for attenuating or reducing the appearance of a skin scar.

[0047] In other words, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a honey extract of Leptospermum polygalîfolîum as an agent for improving the aesthetic appearance of a skin scar.

[0048] The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalîfolîum is intended for topical application and exerts a cosmetic effect. The use according to the invention is therefore typically a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use, by topical route.

[0049] In the context of the present invention, the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalîfolîum is not intended to exert a healing activity or an antibacterial activity. The invention therefore does not relate to antibacterial treatments or treatments for skin healing.

[0050] A skin scar is present on a healthy area of ​​skin, particularly on an area of ​​skin that does not have an open wound, a healing wound, a skin infection, or inflammation.

[0051] “An agent for attenuating or reducing the appearance of a skin scar” means a cosmetic agent or active ingredient capable of improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar, for example by making it less visible.

[0052] For the purposes of the invention, the term "skin" means any part of the skin of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and eyelids, the scalp, the neck, the skin of the hands and the skin of the feet.

[0053] For the purposes of the invention, “healthy skin” means skin which does not have any lesions (i.e. unhealed lesions) or pathology such as a skin infection.

[0054] A "scar" is the mark left on the skin once the healing process of a lesion (e.g., a wound) is complete. In other words, a scar corresponds to the scar tissue formed at the site where the skin has healed following a trauma such as a wound. The healing process is generally considered to be complete after 6 months or even a year. For the purposes of the invention, the scar corresponds to healthy scar tissue (healthy scar). For example, the scar is not associated with painful or irritating sensations. The scar is not inflammatory. The scar may have different visual aspects: the scar may have a particular pigmentation compared to the surrounding skin, such as depigmentation, hyperpigmentation, or a pink, reddish, or purplish color.

[0055] Additionally or alternatively, the scar is distinguished from the rest of the skin by its relief, for example by its thickness or volume. The scar may be hollow, that is to say presented with a depression, a thinning compared to the rest of the skin. Alternatively, the scar may be a raised scar, that is to say presented with a thickening compared to the rest of the skin, for example a swelling.

[0056] For example, the scar may be a flat scar characterized by a red appearance or hyperpigmentation such as a pigment spot.

[0057] As an additional example, the scar may be a raised scar such as a blistered scar.

[0058] The term "cosmetic effect" is generally understood to mean any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin. In the context of the present invention, the term "cosmetic effect" is understood to mean attenuating or reducing the appearance of a scar, that is to say making a skin scar less visible, in other words, improving the aesthetic appearance of a scar and / or skin bearing scars. The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium can be used in particular to obtain one or more of the following cosmetic effects:

[0059] - reduce the surface area of ​​a scar

[0060] - reduce the relief of a scar, for example reducing the volume or flattening a raised scar or smoothing a hollow scar,

[0061] - reduce / fade the color of a scar, for example reduce the pigmentation of a scar, or reduce the red appearance of a scar

[0062] - even out the skin color in an area of ​​skin with a scar,

[0063] - reduce / fade scar marks on the skin.

[0064] More generally, the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium can be used as a cosmetic agent to even out skin with scars, for example to homogenize the color of skin bearing scars. The extract according to the invention can also be used to smooth skin bearing scars (e.g., sunken and / or raised scars). The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium can be used as a cosmetic agent to increase the brightness and even out the color of skin bearing scars. The invention also relates to the use of a honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium to improve the aesthetic appearance of a skin scar, for example by making said scar less visible. The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium can be used as a cosmetic agent to smooth and reduce the appearance of a scar.Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be used as a cosmetic agent to reduce the roughness of scarred skin.

[0065] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can also be used as a cosmetic agent to normalize the color of a scar, for example to lighten a dark scar.

[0066] In some embodiments, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used as an agent to reduce the appearance of scars while increasing the evenness, brightness and smoothness of the skin.

[0067] A scar can result from the normal healing process of any type of injury. For example, a scar can result from the healing of a lesion chosen from an acne lesion (e.g., an acne pimple), an eczema lesion, a surgical incision, a burn, a crack, a split, a wound (e.g., a graze, cut, scrape, scratch, nick), a tattoo, and a piercing.

[0068] The scar can also result from damage to the dermis without tearing the upper layers of the skin, during stretching of the skin, e.g., due to pregnancy or sudden weight gain. In other words, the scar can be a stretch mark.

[0069] In some embodiments, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used to fade or reduce the appearance of an acne scar.

[0070] There are several types of acne scars, including brown spots (or hyperpigmentation spots), sunken scars that appear like small craters or ice pick-shaped, narrow and deep, and raised scars that are usually puffy and reddish.

[0071] Skin that has suffered from acne can therefore present numerous scar marks, which can lead to skin having an uneven color, a rough appearance or even a pockmarked appearance.

[0072] In a particular embodiment, the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used to obtain one or more of the following cosmetic effects:

[0073] - reduce the surface area of ​​an acne scar,

[0074] - reduce the color of an acne scar, in particular making an acne scar less red or less dark, - reduce the volume, or even flatten a raised acne scar

[0075] - smooth the skin, or even restore thickness to a hollow acne scar.

[0076] More generally, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be used as a cosmetic agent to smooth and / or even out the complexion of skin with acne scars. Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be used in particular to reduce the pockmarked appearance of skin that has suffered from acne.

[0077] In some embodiments, Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is used to lessen the appearance of a scar resulting from an acne lesion.

[0078] For the purposes of the invention, acne lesions (or pimples) include, but are not limited to, comedones, such as blackheads, papules, pustules and nodules.

[0079] The use according to the invention can be implemented on any type of skin, as long as the skin is healthy (i.e. does not present pathologies or unhealed lesions). In particular, the subject does not experience an outbreak of acne when implementing the invention, but may have a few acne spots in a region separate from the place where the scar is located.

[0080] The subject can be of any age or gender. The subject is generally at least 6 months old, more preferably at least 3 years old.

[0081] In some embodiments, the subject has a history of acne or is acne-prone. The clinical study showed that the extract according to the invention was particularly effective in reducing scars present on olive or dark skin.

[0082] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention is used on matte or dark skin, preferably of phototype IV, V or VI, more preferably of phototype V or VI.

[0083] In the context of the present invention, the term "skin phototype" means the classification into phototypes based on the reactivity of the skin to the sun as described in Fitzpatrick, Arch. Dermatol, 1988, 124(6):869-71. This classification defines six skin phototypes ranging from I to VI.

[0084] In the context of the present invention, the term "Leptospermum polygalifolium honey" or "jellybush honey" means a honey obtained from the nectar of Leptospermum polygalifolium. This is preferably a honey harvested in Australia. It goes without saying that Manuka honey, which is a monofloral honey obtained from the nectar of Leptospermum scoparium, is not a honey of interest in the context of the present invention.

[0085] The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is obtained from said honey by any known extraction method, for example using an organic solvent, preferably polar, or a supercritical fluid, for example by supercritical CO2.

[0086] Preferably, the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is an aqueous extract or a hydroalcoholic extract.

[0087] For the purposes of the invention, a hydroalcoholic extract refers to an extract whose manufacturing process includes a hydroalcoholic extraction step, i.e. an extraction using a water / alcohol mixture.

[0088] For the purposes of the invention, the term "alcohol" includes lower alcohols, in particular C2-C5, polyols such as glycerin and C2-C5 alkanediols and mixtures thereof.

[0089] For example, the alcohol may be selected from glycerin, ethanol, propanol, butanol, isomers thereof such as isopropanol, tert-butanol, pentanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof. Preferred solvents are ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] The “alcohol / water” volume ratio in the hydroalcoholic mixture is typically in a range from 0.1 to 10.0, for example from about 0.5 to about 5.

[0091] In a particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained by extraction with a glycerin / water mixture, preferably according to a glycerin / water mass ratio of 1.0 to 4.0, preferably 1.5 to 3.0, for example 1.9 to 2.5. The solvent / honey mass ratio can be in a range from 8 to 2, preferably 3 to 5.

[0092] The honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium can be obtained by a process comprising one or more steps of dissolving in water or a hydroalcoholic solution followed by a filtration step to remove insoluble residues.

[0093] In some embodiments, the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract may be obtained by a method comprising:

[0094] - A step of solubilizing a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey in a hydroalcoholic solvent, for example in a water / glycerin mixture, and

[0095] - A filtration step of the mixture obtained to eliminate any insoluble residues.

[0096] In a particular embodiment, the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps: (i) Dissolving the honey in water, and heating the mixture obtained to a temperature between 70°C and 100°C

[0097] (ii) Cooling the mixture and filtering at a temperature above 40°C, so as to eliminate any insoluble residues,

[0098] (iii) Addition of a solvent chosen from alcohols as defined above, preferably glycerin, and

[0099] (iv) Filtration of the mixture thus obtained.

[0100] The porosity of the filter used in step (iv) is generally lower than that of the filter used in step (i).

[0101] The method according to the invention may comprise additional steps such as sterilization steps, a concentration step, a formulation step, or even a packaging step.

[0102] For example, the extract according to the invention can be prepared as follows: Leptospermum polygalifolium honey is suspended in water. Typically the honey / water mass ratio is in a range from 0.5 to 1.5, preferably from 0.6 to 1.0.

[0103] The mixture is stirred and heated to a temperature between 70°C and 100°C, preferably between 80°C and 100°C. The heating time can vary from a few minutes to a few hours, for example from 5 min to 2 h, typically for 5 to 1 hour or from 5 min to 30 min. The mixture is cooled, typically to a temperature between 40°C and 60°C, and then filtered to remove any insoluble residues (for example on a 1 μm filter). Alcohol is added to the filtrate. Preferably, the alcohol is glycerin and the glycerin / water ratio is about 1.9 to 2.5. After stirring, the resulting mixture can be filtered (typically with a filter having a smaller pore size than the filter used during the first filtration - eg 0.5 μm).

[0104] The extract thus obtained can be used as is as an active cosmetic ingredient. For example, the cosmetic ingredient resulting from the process described above can have the following INCI name (when the alcohol used is glycerin): Water (and) Glycerin (and) Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract. Typically, the extract according to the invention is prepared according to a “honey” / “total solvent” ratio of 0.1 to 0.4, preferably 0.15 to 0.3.

[0105] Total solvent refers to either water (if the extraction is aqueous only) or the water / alcohol mixture (if the extraction is hydroalcoholic). A marker of the quality of Leptospermum polygalîfolîum honey is leptosperin. In some embodiments, the honey comprises at least 10 ppm of leptosperin.

[0106] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention is applied to the skin in the form of a cosmetic composition.

[0107] Thus, the extract according to the invention is typically integrated into a cosmetic composition as an active cosmetic agent. The extract according to the invention represents at least 0.01%, for example at least 0.1% by weight of the composition. The extract is generally present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0108] The extract according to the invention is generally used in an amount corresponding to a starting honey amount of approximately 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 2.0% by weight, for example 0.1% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0109] Said composition, which is also an object of the present invention, may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

[0110] Cosmetically acceptable excipients generally represent at least 50%, for example at least 60%, 70% or 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] They may represent from 50% to 99.9999% by weight, preferably from 60% to 99.9995%, for example from 70% to 99.995% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] The composition may also include one or more additional active ingredients with a cosmetic effect.

[0113] Typically, said cosmetic composition comprises:

[0114] - from 0.01% to 10% of extract according to the invention,

[0115] - from 0% to 20% of one or more additional active agents with a cosmetic effect, and

[0116] - from 70% to 99.99% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0117] In some embodiments, said composition comprises

[0118] - from 0.5% to 5% by weight of an extract according to the invention,

[0119] - from 0.1% to 10% of one or more additional active agents with a cosmetic effect, and

[0120] - from 85% to 99.4% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. The term "active ingredient with a cosmetic effect, active agent with a cosmetic effect, cosmetic agent or active ingredient with a cosmetic effect" means a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages. The additional active agent may exert any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, protecting them from external aggressions, or preventing and / or correcting phenomena linked to their aging.

[0121] The additional active agent(s) with a cosmetic effect may be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, sunscreens and filters, anti-aging agents, anti-redness agents, emollient agents, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, scrubbing or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active ingredients, anti-blemish active ingredients, anti-blemish agents, moisturizing agents and combinations thereof.

[0122] Examples of moisturizing agents include urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, its copper (Copper PCA), magnesium (Magnesium PCA), sodium (Sodium PCA) or zinc salts, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, fructose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, sucrose (Sucrose), maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerin, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, butanediol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, histidine, silk, keratin or soy hydrolysates, plant extracts rich in polysaccharides and / or polyphenols, for example Aloe extracts,cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), and combinations thereof.,

[0123] As lipid-replenishing or nourishing agents, we can cite vegetable oils such as olive oil, sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, shea butter, fatty acids, triglycerides, and ceramides.

[0124] Examples of emollient agents include coconut oil, cetearyl alcohol, petrolatum, liquid paraffin, lanolin, polyglycerides of fatty acids and combinations thereof.

[0125] Examples of sebum-regulating agents include rice powder, zinc gluconate, sarcosine, avocado extracts, red clover extracts, Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extracts, and Australian Bakhousia citriodora leaf extracts. Examples of anti-blemish agents include vitamin A, retinoids, salicylic acid, Melaleuca alternifolia essential oil, and combinations thereof.

[0126] Examples of soothing agents include allantoin, panthenol, bisabolol, extracts of aloe, marigold (Calendula officinalis), birch (e.g. Betula alba), oat seedlings, licorice, or willow herb (Epilobium angustifolium).

[0127] Examples of antioxidant agents include HMR (hydroxy methyl resorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, BHT (Butyl Hydroxy Toluene), vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride, vitamin E and its derivatives, or an extract of willow herb (Epilobium augustifolium).

[0128] Examples of anti-redness agents include saponins, flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing them, for example Ruscus extracts, as well as certain essential oils, for example rosemary.

[0129] Examples of anti-stain agents include extracts such as licorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), jackfruit extract (Artocarpus heterophyllus), Rumex extract (R.occidentalis), plant extracts belonging to the citrus genus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Dunaliella Salina extracts, in particular obtained by supercritical fluid, Cistus Incanus extracts, in particular aqueous extracts, and combinations thereof.

[0130] The cosmetically acceptable excipient(s) present in the cosmetic composition may be chosen from diluting agents, dispersing agents, gelling agents, emollients, vectorizing agents such as polycationic polymers or phospholipids, gums, resins, solvents, in particular lower alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerin, sorbitol, and propylene glycol, fillers such as modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide, or a metal stearate, preservatives, essential oils, pearlescent agents, colorants, odor absorbers, pH regulating agents or neutralizing agents, lubricating agents, thickening agents, surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, humectants such as glycerin or sorbitol,wetting agents, dispersing agents, perfumes, organic or mineral pigments such as iron oxides, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils such as petroleum jelly, silicone oils, fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentonites, metallic salts of fatty acids, silica, mica, preservatives, vehicles such as mineral, thermal or floral water, and / or other substances commonly used in formulation in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field.,

[0131] The extract according to the invention can be incorporated into any type of composition. Preferably, it is a composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular suitable for application to the skin. Said cosmetic composition can be in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, multiple emulsions (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O), nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, dispersions or even a powder.

[0132] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lotion, a milk, a cream, an ointment, a balm, a gel, a mousse, a solution, a serum, or a powder,

[0133] More generally, the composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product of any type. It may be a cosmetic treatment, or a makeup or body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, a gel-cream, a treatment water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, a stick, a mousse, or a mask.

[0134] For example, the extract may be present in a facial cream.

[0135] The extract according to the invention can be incorporated as such into the cosmetic composition according to the invention, in particular when the extract is obtained by extraction with a water / glycerin mixture.

[0136] It goes without saying that the composition according to the invention is intended to exert any of the cosmetic effects described in relation to the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract, in particular to improve the aesthetic appearance of a scar, in particular to reduce or make less visible a cutaneous scar present on healthy skin. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in particular intended to normalize the color of a scar, or to reduce the surface area and / or volume of a scar present on healthy skin. The scar can be of any type. Preferably it is an acne scar.

[0137] An additional subject matter according to the invention is a non-therapeutic, cosmetic method of a subject comprising administering a cosmetically effective amount of an extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium as described herein, according to the invention, topically to said subject. The extract is typically applied to the area to be treated, namely the scar, in the form of a cosmetic composition described above.

[0138] The cosmetic process according to the invention is implemented to obtain one or more cosmetic effects as described above.

[0139] It is used to improve the aesthetic appearance of a scar, to make a scar less visible, to normalize the color of a scar, or to reduce the surface area and / or volume of a scar present on healthy skin. The scar can be of any type. Preferably, it is an acne scar.

[0140] In the cosmetic methods and uses according to the invention, the dose to be administered and the frequency of administration of the extract according to the invention vary according to the desired cosmetic effect, the area of ​​application, the characteristics of the individual, in particular their sex, age and skin type, or the characteristics of the scar.

[0141] Typically, the extract according to the invention can be applied in the form of a cosmetic composition 1 to 2 times per day. The application is repeated until the desired effect is obtained, e.g. until the appearance of the scar is improved. Typically, the cosmetic treatment according to the invention lasts at least one week, preferably at least 4 weeks, for example at least 8 weeks or even at least 3 months.

[0142] Application is generally carried out on clean skin, in the morning and / or evening.

[0143] The application can be done by massaging the skin manually or using a massage system, for example a massage ball. For example, the application can be done by circular massages using your index finger at the scar area, for 2 to 3 minutes.

[0144] For example, the subject can apply a dose of 0.5 g to 2 g of cosmetic composition comprising from 0.5% to 5% by weight of extract according to the invention to his face, morning and evening, in particular when the subject has acne scars on the face.

[0145] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the following examples, which must be considered as illustrative and in no way as limiting.

[0146] EXAMPLES

[0147] Example 1: preparation of the extract according to the invention

[0148] Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is obtained as follows. 100 mg of Leptospermum polygalifolium honey harvested in Australia is suspended in a suitable quantity of water (water / honey mass ratio: approximately 1.0 to 1.5). The mixture is heated with stirring at a temperature above 90°C until the honey dissolves for approximately 10 min. The mixture is cooled to a temperature above 40°C and then filtered. Glycerin is then added (glycerin / water mass ratio: approximately 1.8 to 2.6) to the filtrate. The resulting mixture is stirred. The mixture is filtered again. After cooling to room temperature, the mixture is filtered and the extract is thus obtained.

[0149] Example 2: Clinical Trial - Evaluation of a Leptospermum polygalifolium extract as an agent to improve the appearance of skin scars

[0150] The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of a cream containing an extract of L. polygalifolium honey to improve the appearance of the skin of volunteers with acne scars whose healing process has been completed for 6 to 12 months.

[0151] Panels

[0152] The study enrolled 21 healthy volunteers, women and men, aged between 18 and 40 years old and multi-phototype:

[0153] 2 volunteers: phototype II

[0154] 8 volunteers: phototype III,

[0155] 2 volunteers: phototype IV,

[0156] 7 volunteers: phototype V, and

[0157] 2 volunteers: phototypes VI.

[0158] Each volunteer had at least two clearly visible acne scars on each side of their face dating back 6 to 12 months. Volunteers did not have active acne (no acne breakouts at the time of the clinical trial).

[0159] Among these volunteers, there are 9 volunteers with dark skin of skin phototype V or VI (hereinafter: “Dark-skinned volunteers”).

[0160] Table 1 below shows the creams tested:

[0161] [Table 1]

[0162] Protocol

[0163] All volunteers applied the test cream twice a day to one half of the face and the placebo cream to the other for 8 weeks. The tests were conducted double-blind.

[0164] Method

[0165] Skin color and scar assessment

[0166] The brightness (L* parameter) and redness (a* parameter) of the skin, at the cheek and scar levels were assessed on all volunteers. The degree of skin pigmentation (ITA° parameter) at the cheek and scar levels was highlighted on all volunteers and on volunteers with dark skin. These different parameters were determined using a CM-700d spectrophotometer (Konica Minolta) after 4 and 8 weeks of application of the creams.

[0167] The results represent the percentage change from day 0 in the color parameters (redness, brightness and ITA°) obtained 4 and 8 weeks after application of the test and placebo creams.

[0168] Measurement of brightness and redness

[0169] The parameters a* and L* are measured using the CIELab color space (1976). This space is inscribed in a slightly flattened sphere whose vertical axis (L*) corresponds to the lightness or brightness and the horizontal planes define the saturation and hue of a given color: (a*- redness, b*- yellowness)

[0170] A low value of the a* coordinates indicates a decrease in skin redness. A high value of the L* coordinates correlates with brighter skin.

[0171] ITA° measurement LTTA° (individual Typological Angle) is used to measure the degree of skin pigmentation. This parameter takes into account the brightness (L*) and yellowness (b*) of the skin from the CIELab (1976) color space. ITA° is defined according to the following formula: [Math 1] 180 - 3.14159

[0172] A high ITA° value indicates very light skin pigmentation.

[0173] Image analysis

[0174] The VISIA-CR's RBX Brown technology was used on a defined area from the photos obtained for the 2 panels. This consists of using the thresholding algorithm (segmentation) to highlight the intensity of dark pixels from the other characteristics of the image in order to display the percentage of skin occupied by the spots.

[0175] The results represent the change from day 0 in the percentage of surface area occupied by scars in the predefined area after 4 and 8 weeks of cream application.

[0176] Clinical evaluation

[0177] According to the established scoring scale, a dermatologist evaluated the reduction of scars after 4 weeks and 8 weeks of application of the creams, in terms of improvement of colors and reduction of dimensions.

[0178] Table 2 below shows the scale of scores

[0179] [Table 2]

[0180] Skin roughness assessment

[0181] Scar depth and volume are assessed by quantifying the average change in the roughness parameter (Spq) over a region of interest defined on the volunteer images obtained by VISIA-CR. The Spq parameter is defined according to the formula: N represents the number of pixels in the region of interest and Z(i,j) represents the intensity of variation between pixels i, j and the average intensity of the region of interest.

[0182] The region of interest was defined for each subject at day 0. Using a spatial registration algorithm, it was automatically repositioned on the photos taken after 4 weeks and 8 weeks of cream application. The grayscale distribution in each image was measured and the corresponding amplitude variations were analyzed. Thus, a decrease in the Spq parameter indicates a reduction in visual roughness.

[0183] Assessment of scar appearance

[0184] From the region of interest defined for the roughness study, scars were categorized according to their appearance at day 0 as either a volume scar or a hollow scar. The decrease in the Spq parameter indicates a decrease in the volume or depth of the scar.

[0185] Self-assessment

[0186] A subjective evaluation questionnaire was completed by volunteers during the study to assess the effectiveness of the test cream versus the placebo cream.

[0187] Statistical method

[0188] Depending on the normality test and the homogeneity of variances test, a parametric or non-parametric test was used. Values ​​are considered significant when p<0.05 (*p<0.05, **p<0.01, ***p<0.001).

[0189] RESULTS

[0190] - ITA Evaluation 0 : Measure on the Scar

[0191] The results are illustrated in Figures 1 and 2. Regardless of the panel studied, application of the test cream containing L. polygalifolium honey extract significantly increased the ITA° value in scars. L. polygalifolium honey extract reduces scar hyperpigmentation and evens out the complexion, making it brighter.

[0192] - Color assessment (L*, a*) a. Measurement of L* on the scars of the volunteers

[0193] The L* parameter is significantly increased after 8 weeks of application of the cream containing the L. polygalifolium honey extract compared to the placebo cream at the scars (Figure 3). The L. polygalifolium honey extract promotes skin brightness at the scars. b. Measurement of a* on the volunteers' scars The a* parameter is significantly decreased after application of the test cream containing the L. polygalifolium honey extract from 4 weeks at the scars and this in a significantly more pronounced way than with the placebo cream.

[0194] L. polygalifolium honey extract reduced the redness of the volunteers' skin at the scar (Figure 4).

[0195] - Areas occupied by scars

[0196] The surface area occupied by scars after 4 weeks of application of the test cream containing the honey extract of L. polygalifolium, is significantly reduced (Figures 5 and 6) compared to the skin treated with the placebo cream.

[0197] L. polygalifolium honey extract therefore reduces the surface area of ​​scars.

[0198] Skin roughness assessment

[0199] A significant reduction in skin roughness was observed after 8 weeks of application of the test cream containing L. polygalifolium honey extract compared to skin treated with the placebo cream. This effect was visible in all volunteers, including volunteers with phototypes V and VI (Figures 9 and 10).

[0200] L. polygalifolium honey extract improves skin texture by smoothing scars.

[0201] Assessment of scar appearance

[0202] A decrease in the Spq parameter was observed in the selected areas corresponding to either a volume scar or a hollow scar, after four weeks of application of the test cream, which highlights a tendency towards a smoothing effect on the scar. Such an effect was not observed with the placebo cream.

[0203] L. polygalifolium honey extract reduces the volume and depth of scars.

[0204] - Clinical evaluation

[0205] Regardless of the panel studied, the skin specialist identified that application of the test cream containing L. polygalifolium extract improved the skin of volunteers with acne-related scars (Figures 7 and 8).

[0206] - Self-assessment

[0207] A subjective evaluation questionnaire was completed by the volunteers during the study to assess the effectiveness of the test cream versus the placebo cream. This questionnaire showed that the test cream was significantly more effective than the placebo cream on all items, including reducing and fading scars, evening out skin tone, and giving the skin a smoother appearance. The test cream was also judged to have superior organoleptic qualities to the placebo cream. The results are illustrated in Figure 11.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic use of a Leptospermum polygalîfolîum honey extract as an active agent to improve the aesthetic appearance of a skin scar.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the Leptospermum polygalîfolîum honey extract is used to reduce or alleviate the appearance of a skin scar.

3. Use according to claim 1, wherein the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalîfolîum is used to reduce the surface area and / or volume of the skin scar.

4. Use according to claim 1, wherein the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalîfolîum is used to normalize the color of the skin scar.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the skin scar is a sunken scar or a raised scar.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the skin scar is a raised scar.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the skin scar is selected from the group consisting of an acne scar, an eczema scar, a surgery scar, a burn scar, an injury scar, and a piercing scar, a tattoo scar and a stretch mark.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the Leptospermum polygalîfolîum honey extract is used as an active agent for attenuating or reducing the appearance of an acne scar, in particular for flattening, reducing the surface area and / or attenuating the color of an acne scar.

9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalîfolîum is used as an active agent for evening out the color and / or smoothing the appearance of skin bearing scars.

10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the scar is present in a subject with dark skin, preferably phototype IV, V or VI.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract is an aqueous extract or a hydroalcoholic extract, preferably obtained by extraction with a water / glycerin mixture.

14. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 10, in which the honey of Leptospermum polygalifolium is present as an active agent in a cosmetic composition chosen from a makeup product or a care product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, a gel-cream, an ointment, a balm, a cerate, a foundation, or a blush.

15. Cosmetic composition intended to improve the aesthetic appearance of a scar present on healthy skin comprising from 0.01% to 10% by weight of aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium honey.

16. A cosmetic method for reducing or improving the appearance of a skin scar, comprising applying a Leptospermum polygalifolium honey extract, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition, to the scar.

17. Cosmetic method according to claim 16 in which said extract is an aqueous extract or a hydroalcoholic extract, preferably obtained by extraction with a water / glycerin mixture.

18. Use of a honey extract of Leptospermum polygalifolium for the manufacture of a topical composition for improving the aesthetic appearance of a cutaneous scar.

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