SKIN CARE COMPOSITION

The combination of isoamyl caprylate caprate and alkanediol in cosmetic compositions addresses the issue of unattractive sensory properties in water-resistant cosmetics by enhancing water repellency and improving texture, resulting in a more appealing and effective product.

BR112025019343A2Pending Publication Date: 2026-07-07DSM IP ASSETS BV
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
BR112025019343
Authority / Receiving Office
BR · BR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-03-16
Filing Date
2024-03-12
Publication Date
2026-07-07

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Conventional cosmetic compositions using hydrophobic film-forming polymers for water resistance result in an unattractive, oily, and sticky feel on the skin, failing to meet consumer aesthetic preferences.

Method used

The combination of isoamyl caprylate caprate and alkanediol in cosmetic compositions enhances water repellency while improving sensory properties, forming a hydrophobic film that provides improved water resistance without the undesirable texture.

Benefits of technology

The combination of isoamyl caprylate caprate and alkanediol improves water repellency and sensory properties, creating a cosmetic composition that is aesthetically pleasing and effective in resisting water without an oily or sticky feel.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing an alkandiol and one or more cosmetic oils, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate caprate. Said compositions exhibit an improved water repellency (lotus effect) and sensory attributes.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

1 / 25 SKIN CARE COMPOSITION

[001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing an alkanediol and one or more cosmetic oils, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate caprate. Said compositions exhibit improved water repellency (lotus effect).

[002] The lotus plant leaf exhibits remarkable water-repellent and self-cleaning properties. Although lotus plants prefer to grow in muddy rivers and lakes, the leaves and flowers remain clean and are essentially not wettable. The lotus plant achieves this effect by producing leaves and flowers with extremely hydrophobic surfaces. When the leaves come into contact with water, the water droplets contract into substantially spherical spheres that roll across the surface, sweeping away any dirt particles they encounter.

[003] The conventional approach to formulating waterproof or water-resistant cosmetic compositions is based on the use of hydrophobic film-forming polymers. However, these film-forming polymers often make the product unattractive to the end consumer due to the resulting sensory properties, as such products often have an oily, dull and sticky feel on the skin, as described, for example, in document DE 102010063825.

[004] Therefore, there is a continuing need for aesthetically pleasing cosmetic compositions that exhibit improved water repellency, for example, to increase the water resistance of the cosmetic composition.

[005] Surprisingly, it has now been discovered that the combined use of isoamyl caprylate caprate and alkanediol significantly improves the water repellency (lotus effect) of a composition, while also improving its properties. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, p. 13 / 41 2 / 25 sensory.

[006] Thus, in a first embodiment, the present invention provides cosmetic compositions comprising an alkanediol and one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate caprate.

[007] Another object of the invention relates to the use of an alkanediol to increase the water repellency of a cosmetic composition comprising one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate caprate.

[008] In a further aspect, the invention relates to a method for improving the water repellency of cosmetic compositions, said method comprising the step of preparing a cosmetic composition comprising alkanediol and isoamyl caprylate caprate, applying said composition to the skin, allowing the volatile constituents to evaporate, thereby forming a hydrophobic film and, optionally, enhancing the effect.

[009] Isoamyl caprylate caprate is also known as 3-methylbutyl ester of C8-10 (even number) fatty acids (EC number: 694-886-1; CAS number: 1365095-43-7) and is available under the trade name Oxysmooth CP. It is derived from sugarcane and primarily from C8 and C10 vegetable fatty acids, in a ratio of approximately 1:1 (such as, in particular, in the range of 1:0.9 to 0.9:1). Specifically, the term isoamyl caprylate caprate refers to a mixture consisting essentially of isoamyl caprylate (C8) (in amounts of about 45-55%) and isoamyl caprylate (C10) (in amounts of about 40-50%). It is well understood that the term consisting essentially of, as used herein, means that the total quantity of ingredients ideally amounts to 100% by weight. However, the possibility of small quantities of impurities, such as isoamyl caproate and / or isoamyl laurate (C12), derived from the production process, being present is not excluded. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 14 / 41 3 / 25 present in up to 10%, preferably up to 7.5%, that is, in the range of 0-10% and, respectively, 0-7.5%, as measured by GC-MS area percentage analyses.

[010] In all embodiments of the present invention, the (total) amount of isoamyl caprylate caprate in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is advantageously at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, and more preferably at least 7.5% by weight, such as, for example, at least 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[011] In all embodiments of the present invention, the (total) amount of isoamyl caprylate caprate in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 25% by weight, even more preferably less than or equal to 20%, such as less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[012] Even more preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the amount of isoamyl caprylate caprate in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range of 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably 10 to 15% by weight. Other suitable ranges are selected in the range of 5 to 25% by weight, 5 to 20% by weight, 5 to 15% by weight, 7.5 to 25% by weight, 7.5 to 20% by weight, 7.5 to 15% by weight, 10 to 30% by weight, 10 to 25% by weight or 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[013] Suitable alkanediols in all embodiments of the present invention include 1,2-alkanediols and 1,3-alkanediols, such as, in particular, 1,2-butanediol, butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and 1,3-propanediol. In all embodiments of the present invention, the use of 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol is preferred. More preferably, in all embodiments Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 15 / 41 4 / 25 of the present invention, the composition comprises, as an alkanediol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol or pentylene glycol, preferably in the absence of any other alkanediol. Even more preferably, the compositions comprise butylene glycol or pentylene glycol, even more preferably as an isolated alkanediol, since these lead to a particularly beneficial improvement in water repellency.

[014] The total amount of alkanediol in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, such as in the range of 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Other suitable ranges include 2.5 to 5% by weight, or 2.5 to 4% by weight, such as 2.5 to 3.5% by weight.

[015] In a specific preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises 10 to 15% by weight of isoamyl caprylate caprate and 2 to 5% by weight of alkanediol, based on the total weight of the composition.

[016] In all embodiments of the present invention, the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate caprate to alkanediol is preferably selected in the range of 1:1 to 25:1, preferably in the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, most preferably in the range of 4:1 to 10:1. Other suitable ranges are 3:1 to 10:1 and 4:1 to 7.5:1.

[017] As used herein, the term cosmetic oils refers to compounds suitable for cosmetic use having a melting point below about 30°C and which are generally insoluble in water and include a hydrophobic moiety, such as, in particular, a hydrocarbon group with at least six carbons.

[018] The hydrophobic portion may include linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated groups, with a carbon chain of at least six carbons, in which none of the six Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 16 / 41 5 / 25 carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic moiety (defined below) directly attached to it. Cosmetic oil preferably includes fatty acid or fatty alcohol moieties. Also preferably, cosmetic oil does not include hydrophilic moieties, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or non-ionic groups, which are polar groups, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, ammonium, including mono-, di- and trialkylammonium species, pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly(ethyleneiminium), ammonium alkylsulfonate, ammonium alkylcarboxylate, amphoacetate.

[019] Particularly suitable cosmetic oils, in addition to isoamyl caprylate caprate, to be used in cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, include C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacates, dicaprylate, C12-13 alkyl tartrates, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonates, hydrogenated castor oil dimerates, triheptanoin, C12-13 alkyl lactates, C16-17 alkyl benzoates, propyl heptyl caprylates, caprylic / capric triglycerides, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalates, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl cocoates.Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional oil besides isoamyl caprylate caprate, one or more oils being even more preferably selected from the group consisting of dibutyl adipate, phenethyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, caprylyl carbonate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, as well as mixtures thereof. More preferably, the additional oil used in combination with isoamyl caprylate caprate is C12-C15 alkylbenzoate. Even more preferably, the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention comprise exclusively isoamyl caprylate caprate and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate as cosmetic oils. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 17 / 41 6 / 25

[020] The total amount of one or more additional oils (besides isoamyl caprylate caprate) is preferably selected in the range of 5 to 30% by weight, preferably in the range of 7.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 10 to 20% by weight.

[021] Furthermore, it is preferred in all embodiments of the present invention that the weight ratio of one or more additional oils, such as, in particular, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate to isoamyl caprate caprylate, be selected in the range of 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, more preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.5.

[022] The total amount of cosmetic oils (including isoamyl caprylate caprate) in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 15 to 45% by weight, more preferably 20 to 40% by weight, as well as 25 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[023] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the present invention are emulsions.

[024] The term emulsion, as used herein, refers to compositions containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, such as, in particular, a multiple O / W, W / O, Si / W, W / Si, O / W / O, W / O / W emulsion or a pickering emulsion.

[025] The amount of the oil phase in the emulsions according to the present invention (i.e., the phase containing all cosmetic oils and fats, as well as all oil-soluble components of the composition) present in such emulsions is preferably at least 25% by weight, such as in the range of 25 to 70% by weight, preferably in the range of 30 to 60% by weight, more preferably in the range of 30 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[026] According to a still more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, as described herein, are O / W emulsions comprising a phase Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, p. 18 / 41 7 / 25 oily dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. The preparation of such O / W emulsions is well known to one skilled in the art and illustrated in the examples.

[027] In all embodiments of the present invention, it is further advantageous that the O / W emulsifier be a phosphate ester emulsifier. Preferred phosphate ester emulsifiers include C8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, C9-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, C6-10 pareth-4 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-2 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-3 phosphate, DEA-aceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, deceth-4 phosphate, deceth-6 phosphate and trilaureth-4 phosphate. A specific phosphate ester emulsifier, according to the invention, is potassium cetyl phosphate, for example, commercially available as Amphisol® K from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.

[028] Other suitable O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention include PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-4 Dilaurate, PEG-8 Dioleate, PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-20 Almond Glycerides, PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-7 Olivate, PEG-8 Oleate, PEG-8 Laurate, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-2, Steareth-12, Oleth-2, Ceteth-2, Laureth-4, Oleth-10, Oleth-10 / Polyoxyl 10 Oleyl Ether, Ceteth-10, Isosteareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Oleth-20, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Ceteth-20, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-23, Steareth-100, glyceryl citrate stearate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying agent), stearic acid, stearic acid salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose stearate. Other suitable emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, lauryl Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 19 / 41 8 / 25 glycoside, decyl glucoside, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate, and hydrated polyisobutene. In addition, one or more synthetic polymers may be used as emulsifiers. For example, eicosene PVP copolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, PEG22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[029] Another particularly suitable class of O / W emulsifiers are non-ionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil, for example, known as (INCI Name) cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (Chemical Composition: sorbitan ester and cetearyl ester of olive oil fatty acids), marketed under the trade name OLIVEM 1000.

[030] Other commercially available polymeric emulsifiers are suitable, such as hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid, such as Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosslinked Polymers, which are commercially available under the trade names Pemulen® TR-1 and TR-2 from Noveon.

[031] Polyalkylene glycol ethers are also suitable, such as Brij 72 (polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (2)) or Brij 721 (polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (21), for example, available from Croda.

[032] Particularly advantageous O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention are one or more of the following: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Cetearyl Glucoside; Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate, Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucosides, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside, Coco-Glucoside (and) Coconut Alcohol, PEG-100 Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 20 / 41 9 / 25 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-25, Steareth-2, Ceteareth-25 and Ceteareth-6 (all listed by their INCI names).

[033] It is particularly preferred, according to the invention, that the compositions contain potassium cetylphosphate as an emulsifier.

[034] At least one O / W, or Si / W, emulsifier, with all the definitions and preferences set out herein, is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, such as, in particular, in the range of 0.5 to 5% by weight, such as, in particular, in the range of 0.5 to 4% by weight, such as, in the range of 1 to 4% by weight, 1 to 3% by weight or 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[035] Suitable W / Si or W / O emulsifiers according to the present invention are polyglycerol esters or diesters of fatty acids, also called polyglyceryl ester / diester (i.e., a polymer in which fatty acids are linked by esterification with polyglycerin), such as, for example, commercially available from Evonik as Isolan GPS [INCI Name Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (i.e., diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with Polyglycerin-4)] or Dehymuls PGPH available from Cognis (INCI Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol esters of oleic / isostearic acid, polyglyceryl-6 hexaricinolate, polyglyceryl-4-oleate, magnesium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium laurate, potassium ricinoleate, sodium cocoate, sodium tallow, potassium castorate,Sodium oleate and mixtures thereof. Other suitable W / Si emulsifiers are Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone and / or PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone and / or Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone and / or PEG Crosslinked Polymer. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 21 / 41 10 / 25 Dimethicone and / or PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone. At least one W / O emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of about 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[036] The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention also advantageously contain at least one co-surfactant, such as, for example, selected from the group of mono- and diglycerides and / or fatty alcohols. The co-surfactant is generally used in an amount selected in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, such as in particular in the range of 0.5 to 7% by weight, such as in most, in particular in the range of 1 to 5% by weight or in the range of 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly suitable co-surfactants are selected from the list of alkyl alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol (Lorol C16, Lanette 16), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O), stearyl alcohol (Lanette 18), behenyl alcohol (Lanette 22), polyhydroxystearic acid, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl myristate (Estol 3650), hydrogenated cocoglycerides (Lipocire Na10), as well as mixtures thereof.

[037] In all embodiments of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous if the composition also comprises cetoaryl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol, preferably both, more preferably in an amount (total) of 1 to 5% by weight, preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[038] In a further advantageous aspect of the invention, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention further comprise a preservative and / or a preservative enhancer, preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, more preferably Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 22 / 41 11 / 25 selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, hexylglycerin, glyceryl caprylate, as well as mixtures thereof, and even more preferably selected from the group of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, as well as mixtures thereof. When present, the preservative or preservative enhancer is preferably used in an amount of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, as well as in the range of 0.5% to 1.5% by weight or 0.75 to 1.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[039] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin, preferably phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

[040] The cosmetic composition may also include commonly used UVA, UVB or broadband UV filtering substances. Such compositions are commonly called sunscreens.

[041] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to the present invention further comprise Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (INCI, also referred to herein as BEMT) as a UV filtering substance, since the addition thereof further increases the water repellency of the composition, as illustrated in the examples.

[042] BEMT is also known as 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5triazine (chemical name) or bemotrizinol (INN). BEMT acts as a broad-spectrum UV filter, absorbing UVB and UVA rays. It has two absorption peaks, 310 and 340 nm. BEMT is indicated for use in sunscreens, daily care, beauty products such as BB creams and skin lightening products. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 23 / 41 12 / 25

[043] In all embodiments of the present invention, the amount of BEMT in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range of 0.4 to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.4 to 9% by weight, 0.4 to 8% by weight, 0.4 to 7% by weight, 0.4 to 6% by weight, 0.4 to 5% by weight, 0.4 to 4% by weight, 0.4 to 3% by weight, 0.5 to 3% by weight, 0.8 to 9% by weight, 0.8 to 8% by weight, 0.8 to 7% by weight, 0.8 to 6% by weight, 0.8 to 5% by weight, 0.8 to 4% by weight, 0.8 to 3% by weight, such as, for example, in the range of 1 to 5% by weight, from 1 to 3% by weight, 2 to 5% by weight, 2 to 4% by weight, or 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[044] Preferably, the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate caprate to BEMT is selected in the range of 1:1 to 25:1, preferably in the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, more preferably in the range of 4:1 to 10:1. Other suitable ranges are 3:1 to 10:1 and 4:1 to 7.5:1.

[045] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the weight ratio of alkanediol to BEMT is selected in the range of 0.5:5 to 5:0.5, preferably in the range of 0.5:3 to 3:0.5, more preferably in the range of 5:1 to 1:1. Other suitable ranges are 4:1 to 1:1, and 3:1 to 1:1 and 2:1 to 1:1. Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the alkanediol is used in excess relative to the amount of BEMT, i.e., in a weight ratio > 1.

[046] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the composition further comprises butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane and / or diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB).

[047] The amount of butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, commercially available as PARSOL® 1789, in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 24 / 41 13 / 25 as in the range of 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[048] The amount of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, commercially available as Uvinul A plus, in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, as well as in the range of 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[049] In one embodiment, it is preferred that the compositions comprise BEMT and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, preferably in the absence of DHHB, even more preferably as the sole UV filters.

[050] In another embodiment, it is preferred that the compositions comprise BEMT and diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, preferably in the absence of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, even more preferably as the sole UV filters.

[051] As the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application, it is well understood that they comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is, a medium compatible with keratinous substances, such as skin, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers. In particular, the physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[052] The term cosmetically acceptable vehicle, as used herein, refers to all vehicles and / or excipients and / or diluents conventionally used in topical cosmetic compositions, such as in particular in skin care preparations, and includes, for example, cosmetic oils.

[053] The exact amount of vehicle will depend on the actual level of UV filtering substances and any other optional ingredients that a person skilled in the art would classify as distinct from the vehicle (e.g., other active ingredients). Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, p. 25 / 41 14 / 25

[054] In an advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention comprise from 50% to 99%, preferably from 60% to 98%, more preferably from 70% to 98%, such as in particular from 80% to 95% of a vehicle, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[055] In a particular advantageous embodiment, the vehicle also consists of at least 30% by weight, more preferably at least 40% by weight, more preferably at least 45% by weight of water, such as in particular 50 to 90% by weight of water. Other suitable ranges are 50 to 75% by weight, 50 to 70% by weight, and 55 to 65% by weight.

[056] In particular, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, preferably cosmetic (non-therapeutic) compositions.

[057] In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are applied to the keratinous tissue of mammals, such as, in particular, human skin or human scalp and hair.

[058] The term cosmetic composition, as used in this application, refers to cosmetic compositions as defined under the title Kosmetika in Rompp Lexikon Chemie, 10th edition, 1997, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, as well as to cosmetic compositions as described in A. Domsch, Cosmetic Compositions, Verlag für chemische Industrie (ed. H. Ziolkowsky), 4th edition, 1992.

[059] Preferred cosmetic compositions, according to the invention, are skin care preparations, decorative preparations and functional preparations.

[060] Examples of preparations for skin care are, in particular, preparations for protection against light, anti-aging preparations, preparations for the treatment of photoaging, body lotions, body gels, creams of Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 26 / 41 15 / 25 treatment, skin protection ointments, balms, moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, facial and / or body moisturizers, preparations for skin tanning (i.e., compositions for artificial / sunless tanning and / or tanning of human skin), for example, self-tanning creams, as well as preparations for skin lightening.

[061] Examples of decorative preparations are, in particular, mascara or dry and wet makeup formulations.

[062] Examples of functional preparations are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing active ingredients, such as hormonal preparations, vitamin preparations, plant extract preparations, anti-aging preparations and / or antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) preparations, without limitation.

[063] In a specific embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are photoprotective preparations (sunscreen products, sun filters), such as sunscreen milks, sunscreen lotions, sunscreen creams, sunblocks or topical or day care creams with or without SPF (sun protection factor). Of particular interest are sunscreen creams, sunscreen lotions and sunscreen milks.

[064] The compositions of the invention (including the vehicle) may comprise conventional adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives / antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, colorants, coloring agents / dyes, abrasives, absorbents, chelating and / or sequestering agents, essential oils, substances Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 27 / 41 16 / 25 sensory ingredients for the skin, astringents, pigments or any other ingredients usually formulated in such compositions.

[065] According to the present invention, the compositions according to the invention may comprise additional ingredients, such as ingredients for skin lightening; tanning prevention; hyperpigmentation treatment; prevention or reduction of acne, wrinkles, expression lines, atrophy and / or inflammation; chelating and / or sequestering agents; anti-cellulite and slimming agents (e.g., phytanic acid), firming, moisturizing and energizing agents, self-tanners, soothing agents, as well as agents to improve skin elasticity and barrier, and vehicles and / or excipients or diluents conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

[066] Unless otherwise indicated, the excipients, additives, diluents, etc. mentioned below are suitable for cosmetic compositions according to the present invention. The required quantities of cosmetic and dermatological adjuvants and additives can, based on the desired product, be easily determined by one skilled in the art.

[067] Additional ingredients may be added to the oil phase, the aqueous phase, or separately, as appropriate. The method of addition may be easily adapted by one skilled in the art.

[068] Examples of excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives, and cosmetic active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, are described, for example, in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook by Personal Care Product Council (http: / / www.personalcarecouncil.org / ), accessible via the online INFO BASE (http: / / online.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp), without being limited to them.

[069] The cosmetically active ingredients useful here may, Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 28 / 41 17 / 25 in some cases, providing more than one benefit or operating through more than one mode of action.

[070] Naturally, one skilled in the art will take care to select the additional ingredients, adjuvants, diluents and optional additives mentioned above, and / or their quantities, so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the combination according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, detrimentally affected by the intended additions.

[071] In another advantageous aspect, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are free from any parabens, benzethonium chloride, piroctone olamine, lauroylarginate, methylisothiazolinone, chlormethylisothiazolinone, bronopol, benzalkonium chloride, formaldehyde-releasing compounds, salicylic acid, triclosan, DMDM ​​hydantoin, chlorphenesin and IPBC (iodopropynyl butyl carbamate).

[072] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the compositions are free of octocrylene (CAS number: 6197-30-4).

[073] The term octocrylene-free in all embodiments of the present invention means that no octocrylene is deliberately added to the compositions, i.e., the compound is not detectable by standard analytical means, such as HPLC.

[074] In another advantageous aspect, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are, moreover, free of oxybenzone and / or methylbenzylidene camphorate.

[075] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more emollients that soothe and soften the skin. As an example, the emollient may be silicone (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), vegetable oils (grape seed, sesame seed, jojoba, etc.), butters (cocoa butter, shea butter), and petrolatum derivatives (petroleum jelly, mineral oil). Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, p. 29 / 41 18 / 25

[076] In another aspect, the cosmetic composition of the invention may comprise one or more fragrances selected from limonene, citral, linalool, alpha-isomethyl ionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetraline, adipic diester, cinnamal, amyl salicylate, alpha-amyl cinnamaldehyde, alpha-methyl ionone, butylphenyl methylpropional, cinnamal, amyl cinnamyl alcohol, anise alcohol, benzoin, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, butylphenyl methylpropional, oil of Cardamom, cedrol, cinnamal, cinnamyl alcohol, citronellol methylcrotonate, citrus oil, coumarin, diethyl succinate, ethyllinalool, eugenol, Evernia furfuracea extract, Evernia prunastri extract, farnesol, guaiac oil, hexyl cinnamal, hexyl salicylate, hydroxycitronellal, lavender oil, lemon oil.Linalyl acetate, tangerine oil, menthylated PCA, methyl hexadecane, nutmeg oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol, tonka bean oil, triethyl citrate, vanillin.

[077] The composition of the invention may advantageously comprise moisturizers. Moisturizers are compounds or mixtures of compounds that give cosmetic compositions the ability, after application or distribution on the skin surface, to reduce moisture loss from the stratum corneum (experimental determination, for example, by transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the stratum corneum and / or maintain a real state of hydration.

[078] Non-limiting examples of advantageous moisturizers for use in the present invention include glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, especially sodium lactate, biosaccharide gum-1, soybean glycine, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, acid Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pages 30 / 41 19 / 25 pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Another advantage, in particular, is the use of polymeric moisturizers from the polysaccharide group that are water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or gel-able with the aid of water. Especially advantageous, for example, are hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide that is registered in Chemical Abstracts under registration number 178463-23-5 and is available, for example, under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA. Moisturizers can also be advantageously used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for protection against skin changes of the type that occur in skin aging, for example.

[079] The cosmetic compositions of the invention may also advantageously, though not necessarily, comprise fillers that have the effect, for example, of further enhancing the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and evoking or intensifying a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers within the meaning of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, diamido phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenylsuccinate and the like, for example), Valvance pigments that do not have a primary UV filter effect or coloring effect (such as Valvance Touch 210 or 250, for example) and / or Aerosils® and / or talc and / or polyethylene, nylon, and silica dimethyl silylate.

[080] The aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention may advantageously comprise usual cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, particularly those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, or low C number polyols, and also ethers thereof, preferably glycerol, electrolytes, self-tanning agents and also, in particular, one or more thickeners, which may be advantageously selected from the group of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and / or derivatives thereof, by Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pp. 31 / 41 20 / 25 example, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, as well as particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group referred to as carbopols, examples being carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984 and 5984, in each case individually or in combination. Other advantageous thickeners according to the invention are those with the INCI designation of Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosslinked Polymer (e.g., Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from NOVEON) and also Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), as well as Simugel NS (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Squalane & Polysorbate 60). Other suitable thickeners in all embodiments of the present invention are biopolymers such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, and Sphingomonas yeast extract.

[081] According to the invention, it is preferred that the composition comprises one or more thickeners selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, acrylate / C10C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and / or vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecane copolymer, preferably xanthan gum and / or hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, more preferably both, xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate.

[082] The total amount of one or more thickeners in the compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 0.1 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.1% by weight, such as in the range of 0.25 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[083] In another aspect, the composition may have an FPS of at Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pages 32 / 41 21 / 25 minus 15, preferably at least 20, more preferably at least 30.

[084] Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise other film formers.

[085] It is particularly advantageous to select the aforementioned additional film formers from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)-based polymers, as well as capryloylglycerin / sebacic acid copolymer, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate and / or ethylcellulose.

[086] Specific preference is given to vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as, for example, PVP hexadecane copolymer and PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Corporation.

[087] Also advantageous as additional polymeric film formers are, for example, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, which is available under the trade name Flexan 130 from National Starch and Chemical Corp., and / or polyisobutene, available from Rewo under the trade name Rewopal PIB1000. Examples of other suitable polymers are polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols, acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer (Dermacryl 79). Equally advantageous is the use of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (INCI Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate), which can be purchased from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the name Risocast DA-H, or PPG3 benzyl ether myristate, which can be purchased under the trade name Crodamol STS from Croda Chemicals.

[088] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention generally have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 8 and, more preferably, a pH in the range of 4 to 7. The pH can be easily adjusted as desired with suitable acids, such as, for example, citric acid, or bases, such as Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pages 33 / 41 22 / 25 as NaOH, according to standard methods in the art.

[089] The amount of topical sunscreen emulsion to be applied to the skin is not critical and can be easily adjusted by someone skilled in the art. Preferably, the amount is selected in the range of 0.1 to 3 mg / cm2 of skin, preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2 mg / cm2 of skin, and most preferably in the range of 0.5 to 2 mg / cm2 of skin.

[090] According to the invention, the sunscreens of the invention are used for protection against skin aging (especially for protection against UV-induced skin aging) and also as a sun protection composition.

[091] Finally, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, such as in particular the skin, wherein a composition, as defined herein, is applied to said keratinous substances, in particular the skin. If UV filtering substances are present in said compositions, said method is particularly suitable for protecting the skin against the adverse effects of UV radiation, such as, in particular, sunburn and / or photoaging, preventing fluorescent stains on clothing and / or garments.

[092] The following examples are provided to better illustrate the compositions and effects of the present invention. These examples are merely illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Experimental Part Formulations

[093] The formulations (O / W emulsions), as described in Table 1, were prepared according to standard methods of the art. (A) Water repellency test 1) Apply 40 mg of the formulation in small drops to plaques. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pages 34 / 41 23 / 25 Schonberg 2 mü (5 cm x 5 cm) and distribute the formulation evenly. 2) Store the plates at 40°C for 15 minutes. 3) Place a 50 microliter drop of water on the plate, wait 1 minute, and take a picture. 4) Measure the diameter of the drop. 5) For each formulation, 3 drops are measured. Table 1: Cosmetic O / W Emulsions Trade Name INCI Reference Invention 1 2 1 2 3 Water Dem Water; Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Keltrol CG-T Xanthan gum; 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 AMPHISOL® K Potassium cetyl phosphate; 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Lanette 18 Stearyl alcohol; 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Lanette O Cetearyl alcohol; 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Finsolv TN C12-15 alkyl benzoate; 15.00 28.00 15.00 15.00 15.00 Oxismooth CP Isoamyl caprate / caprate; 13.00 - 13.00 13.00 13.00 Sepinov EMT 10 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Euxyl PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Tilamar PDO Propanediol; - - 3.00 - - Hydrolite 5 Green Pentylene glycol; - - - 3.00 - 1.3 Butylene Glycol cos grade Butylene glycol; — 3.00 — — 3.00 Average droplet diameter [cm] 1.21 1.21 1.13 1.07 1.07 Improvement in hydrophobicity versus Ref - - +6.6% +11.6% +11.6%

[094] As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention exhibit better water repellency compared to the reference formulation. Table 2: Sunscreen composition # Trade Name INCI Invention 4 5 6 A Water Dem Water Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 A Keltrol CG-T Xanthan gum 0.25 0.25 0.25 A 1,3 Butylene Glycol cos grade Butylene glycol 3.00 3.00 3.00 Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pp. 35 / 41 24 / 25 B AMPHISOL® K Cetyl phosphate potassium 2.50 2.50 2.50 B Lanette 18 Stearyl alcohol; 2.50 2.50 2.50 B Lanette O Cetearyl alcohol; 1.00 1.00 1.00 B Finsolv TN C12-15 alkyl benzoate; 15.00 15.00 15.00 B Oxismooth CP Isoamyl caprylate caprate; 13.00 13.00 13.00 B PARSOL® Shield Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; 2.50 2.5 2.5 B PARSOL® 1789 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane — 4.5 — B DHHB Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate — — 5.0 B Sepinov EMT 10 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0.50 4.50 4.50 C Euxyl PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 1.00 1.00 Average droplet diameter [cm] 1.03 0.89 0.90 Improvement in hydrophobicity versus Ref +14.9% +26.5% +25.6%

[095] As can be seen from the results in Table 2, the addition of BEMT, BMDBM and DHHB further improves water repellency. (B) Sensory evaluation

[096] All sensory evaluations were performed using the emulsions presented in Tables 1 and 2. The determination of sensory characteristics was then conducted according to a descriptive sensory evaluation process for the parameters described in Table 3 by well-trained tasters. 50 μl of the respective emulsion from Tables 1 and 2 were applied to a point on the surface of the forearm. After application, the respective emulsion was rubbed until the product was absorbed by the skin. The parameters were evaluated immediately after the rubbing phase. The results are presented in Table 3 below. Table 3: Sensory evaluation results (sensory attractiveness) Sensory Attribute Reference Invention 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 Stickiness + ± + + ++ + + ++ + Smoothness ± + + ++ + + ++ + Skin lightening during application + + ++ ++ + + + + + Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pp. 36 / 41 25 / 25 Overall sensory appeal + + ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ± OK + good ++ very good

[097] As can be seen from the results in Table 3, the compositions according to the present invention exhibit a superior skin feel and / or appearance compared to the references, resulting in better overall sensory appeal. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pp. 37 / 41

Claims

1 / 3 CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises an alkanediol and one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate caprate.

2. Cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, characterized in that the amount of alkanediol is selected in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, such as in the range of 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. Cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the amount of isoamyl caprylate caprate in the composition is selected in the range of 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 20% by weight, most preferably 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate caprate to alkanediol is selected in the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, preferably from 4:1 to 10:

1.

5. Cosmetic composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one additional cosmetic oil selected from the group consisting of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacates, dicaprylate, di-C12-C13 alkyl tartrates, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonates, hydrogenated castor oil dimerates, triheptanoin, C12-C13 alkyl lactates, C16-C17 alkyl benzoates, propyl heptyl caprylates, caprylic / capric triglycerides, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalates, octyldodecanol and ethylhexyl cocoates is present. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, page 38 / 41 2 / 3 6. Cosmetic composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one additional cosmetic oil is a C12-C15 alkylbenzoate.

7. Cosmetic composition, according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the weight ratio of at least one additional cosmetic oil to isoamyl caprate caprylate is selected in the range of 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, more preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.

5.

8. Cosmetic composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is an O / W emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier, preferably in the presence of a cetyl phosphate emulsifier, more preferably in the presence of potassium cetyl phosphate.

9. Cosmetic composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition further comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

10. Cosmetic composition, according to claim 9, characterized in that the amount of bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in the composition is selected in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. Cosmetic composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane and / or diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.

12. Cosmetic composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more preservatives / preservative enhancers selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

13. Cosmetic composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more of the following: behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate, preferably behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, more preferably cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

14. Use of an alkanediol characterized by being used to increase the water repellency of a cosmetic composition comprising isoamyl caprylate caprate.

15. Method for improving the water repellency of a cosmetic composition, said method characterized in that it comprises the step of preparing a cosmetic composition comprising both an alkanediol and an isoamyl caprylate caprate, applying said composition to the skin, allowing the volatile constituents to evaporate, thus forming a hydrophobic film and, optionally, appreciating the effect. Petition 870250081617, dated 11 / 09 / 2025, pp. 40 / 41