SUN PROTECTION COMPOSITION
Incorporating isoamyl caprylate caprate in sunscreen compositions with BEMT addresses the issue of poor water repellency and sensory issues in current sunscreens, enhancing their effectiveness and attractiveness.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- BR · BR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- DSM IP ASSETS BV
- Filing Date
- 2024-03-12
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-14
AI Technical Summary
Current sunscreens with film-forming polymers lack effective water repellency and result in undesirable sensory properties such as an oily, opaque, and sticky sensation on the skin.
Incorporating isoamyl caprylate caprate as a cosmetic oil in sunscreen compositions containing bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) enhances water repellency and improves sensory properties.
The use of isoamyl caprylate caprate improves the water repellency and sensory properties of sunscreens, resulting in a more attractive and effective product.
Abstract
Description
1 / 24 SUN PROTECTION COMPOSITION
[001] The present invention relates to sunscreen compositions containing bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) and one or more cosmetic oils, characterized in that at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate. Said compositions exhibit enhanced water repellency (lotus effect).
[002] Sunscreens must be effective and safe. In this sense, sunscreens contain different UVB and UVA filters. Among these UV filters, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is particularly advantageous because it is a broad-spectrum UV absorber, absorbing both UVB and UVA rays, and is highly photostable. Overall, it is currently considered the most effective UV absorber available, considering SPF, based on the maximum concentration allowed by European legislation.
[003] The water repellency of sunscreen products is a fundamental parameter for current sunscreens and can be achieved, for example, by the addition of film-forming polymers. However, these film-forming polymers are not sufficiently effective and / or make the product unattractive to the end consumer due to the resulting sensory properties, since such products often present an oily, opaque and sticky sensation on the skin, as described, for example, in DE 102010063825.
[004] Surprisingly, it has now been discovered that the use of isoamyl caprylate caprate as one of the cosmetic oils present in a sunscreen composition comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine significantly improves water repellency (lotus effect) and also enhances the sensory properties of the same.
[005] Thus, in a first embodiment, the present invention provides sun protection compositions comprising Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, p. 13 / 40 2 / 24 bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) and one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate.
[006] Another aspect of the invention is directed to the use of isoamyl caprylate caprate to increase the water repellency of a sunscreen composition comprising bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.
[007] In a further aspect, the invention relates to a method for improving the water repellency of sunscreen compositions, said method comprising the step of preparing a sunscreen composition comprising bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and isoamyl caprylate caprate, applying said composition to the skin, allowing the volatile constituents to evaporate, thereby forming a hydrophobic film and optionally appreciating the effect.
[008] Without limiting ourselves to theory, it is believed that increased water repellency results in better water resistance of the sunscreen.
[009] Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (also referred to here as BEMT) is also known as 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (chemical name) or bemotrizinol (INN). BEMT acts as a broad-spectrum UV filter, absorbing UVB and UVA rays. It has two absorption peaks, 310 and 340 nm. BEMT is indicated for use in sunscreens, daily skincare, makeup products such as BB creams, and skin-lightening products.
[010] In all embodiments of the present invention, the amount of BEMT in the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention is advantageously selected in the range of 0.4 to 10% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.4 to 9% by weight, 0.4 to 8% by weight, 0.4 to 7% by weight, 0.4 to 6% by weight, 0.4 to 5% by weight, 0.4 to 4% by weight, 0.4 to 3% by weight, 0.5 to 3% by weight, 0.8 to 9% by weight, 0.8 to 8% by weight, 0.8 to 7% by weight, 0.8 Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 14 / 40 3 / 24 to 6% by weight, 0.8 to 5% by weight, 0.8 to 4% by weight, 0.8 to 3% by weight, for example in the range of 1 to 5% by weight, 1 to 3% by weight, 2 to 5% by weight, 2 to 4% by weight or 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[011] Isoamyl caprylate is also known as fatty acids, C8-10 (even number), 3-methylbutyl ester (EC number: 694-886-1; CAS number: 1365095-43-7) and is available under the trade name Oxysmooth CP. It is derived from sugarcane and primarily consists of C8 and C10 vegetable fatty acids in a ratio of approximately 1:1 (as in particular in the range of 1:0.9 to 0.9:1). Specifically, the term isoamyl caprylate refers to a mixture consisting essentially of isoamyl caprylate (C8) (in amounts of about 45 to 55%) and isoamyl caprylate (C10) (in amounts of about 40 to 50%). It is well understood that the term consisting essentially of, as used here, means that the total quantity of the ingredients ideally adds up to 100% by weight.However, it is not excluded that small amounts of impurities, such as isoamyl caproate and / or isoamyl laurate (C12) derived from the production process may be present up to a maximum of 10%, preferably up to 7.5%, i.e., in the range of 0-10, respectively 0-7.5%, as measured by area analysis in % by GC-MS.
[012] In all embodiments of the present invention, the (total) amount of isoamyl caprylate caprate in the sun protection compositions according to the present invention is advantageously at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 7.5% by weight, such as at least 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
[013] In all embodiments of the present invention, the (total) amount of isoamyl caprylate caprate in the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 15 / 40 4 / 24 is less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 25% by weight, even more preferably less than or equal to 20%, such as less than or equal to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[014] Even more preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the amount of isoamyl caprylate caprate in the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention is selected in the range of 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 20% by weight, most preferably 10 to 15%. Other suitable ranges are selected in the range of 5 to 25% by weight, 5 to 20% by weight, 5 to 15% by weight, 7.5 to 25% by weight, 7.5 to 20% by weight, 7.5 to 15% by weight, 10 to 30% by weight, 10 to 25% by weight or 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[015] In a specific preferred embodiment, the sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises 10 to 15% by weight of isoamyl caprylate caprate and 2 to 5% by weight of BEMT, based on the total weight of the composition.
[016] In all embodiments of the present invention, the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate caprate to BEMT is preferably selected in the range of 1:1 to 25:1, preferably in the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, most preferably in the range of 4:1 to 10:1. Other suitable ranges are 3:1 to 10:1 and 4:1 to 7.5:1.
[017] As used herein, the term cosmetic oils refers to compounds suitable for cosmetic use that have a melting point below about 30°C and are generally insoluble in water and include a hydrophobic fraction, such as in particular a hydrocarbon group with at least six carbons.
[018] The hydrophobic fraction may include linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated groups, with a carbon chain of at least six carbons, in which none of the six carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic fraction. Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 16 / 40 5 / 24 (defined below) directly related to this. The cosmetic oil preferably includes fatty acid or fatty alcohol fractions. Also preferably, the cosmetic oil does not include hydrophilic fractions, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or non-ionic groups, which are polar groups, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, ammonium, including mono-, di- and trialkylammonium species, pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly(ethyleneiminium), ammonium alkylsulfonate, ammonium alkylcarboxylate, amphoacetate.
[019] The cosmetic oil(s) act(s) as a solvent for BEMT and, therefore, is / are capable of dissolving it / them alone or when mixed in the proportions described herein. Preferably, the solubility of BEMT in one or more cosmetic oils to be used in the sun protection compositions according to the present invention is at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 8% by weight, and even more preferably at least 10% by weight (measured at room temperature (approximately 22°C)).
[020] Particularly suitable cosmetic oils, in addition to isoamyl caprylate caprate, to be used in sun protection compositions according to the present invention, include C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacates, dicaprylate carbonate, di-C12-C13 alkyl tartrates, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonates, hydrogenated castor oil dimerates, triheptanoin, C12-C13 alkyl lactates, C16-C17 alkyl benzoates, propyl heptyl caprylates, caprylic / capric triglycerides, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalates, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl cocoates. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional oil besides isoamyl caprylate caprate, one or more of which oils are even more preferably selected from the group consisting of adipate. Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 17 / 40 6 / 24 dibutyl, phenethyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, caprylyl carbonate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, as well as mixtures thereof. More preferably, the additional oil used in combination with isoamyl caprylate caprate is C12-C15 alkylbenzoate. Even more preferably, the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention comprise exclusively isoamyl caprylate caprate and C12-C15 alkylbenzoate as cosmetic oils.
[021] The total amount of one or more additional oils (in addition to isoamyl caprylate caprate) is preferably selected in the range of 5 to 30% by weight, preferably in the range of 7.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 10 to 20% by weight.
[022] Furthermore, in all embodiments of the present invention, it is preferable that the weight ratio of one or more additional oils, such as in particular C12-C15 alkylbenzoate to isoamyl caprylate, be selected in the range of 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, more preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.5.
[023] The total amount of cosmetic oils (including isoamyl caprylate caprate) in the sun protection compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 15 to 45% by weight, more preferably 20 to 40% by weight, as well as 25 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[024] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the present invention are emulsions.
[025] The term 'emulsion', as used herein, refers to compositions containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, such as in particular an O / W, W / O, Si / W, W / Si, O / W / O, W / O / W multiple emulsion or a pickering emulsion. Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, p. 18 / 40 7 / 24
[026] The amount of the oil phase in the emulsions according to the present invention (i.e., the phase containing all cosmetic oils and fats, as well as all oil-soluble components of the composition) present in said emulsions is preferably at least 25% by weight, as in the range of 25 to 70% by weight, preferably in the range of 30 to 60% by weight, more preferably in the range of 30 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[027] According to a still more preferred embodiment, the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention, as described herein, are O / W emulsions comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. The preparation of these O / W emulsions is well known to a person skilled in the art and illustrated in the examples.
[028] In all embodiments of the present invention, it is even more advantageous if the O / W emulsifier is a phosphate ester emulsifier. Among the preferred phosphate ester emulsifiers are C8-10 Ethyl Alkyl Phosphate, C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate, Ceteareth-2 Phosphate, Ceteareth-5 Phosphate, Ceteth-8 Phosphate, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Cetyl Phosphate, C6-10 Pareth-4 Phosphate, C12-15 Pareth-2 Phosphate, C12-15 Pareth-3 Phosphate, DEA-Ceteareth-2 Phosphate, DEA-Cetyl Phosphate, DEA-Oleth-3 Phosphate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Deceth-4 Phosphate, Deceth-6 Phosphate, and Trilaureth-4 Phosphate. A specific phosphate ester emulsifier according to the invention is potassium cetyl phosphate, for example, commercially available as Amphisol® K from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.
[029] Other suitable O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention include PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-4 Dilaurate, PEG-8 Dioleate, PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Almond Glycerides of Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 19 / 40 8 / 24 PEG-20, PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-7 Olivate, PEG-8 Oleate, PEG-8 Laurate, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-2, Steareth-12, Oleth-2, Ceteth-2, Laureth-4, Oleth-10, Oleth-10 / Polyoxyl 10 Oleyl Ether, Ceteth-10, Isosteareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Oleth-20, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Ceteth-20, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-23, Steareth-100, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying agent), stearic acid, stearic acid salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucosedestearate. Other suitable emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate and hydrated polyisobutene.Furthermore, one or more synthetic polymers may be used as emulsifiers. For example, eicosene PVP copolymer, acrylates / C1030 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[030] Another particularly suitable class of O / W emulsifiers are non-ionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil, for example, known as (INCI name) cetostearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (Chemical composition: sorbitan ester and cetostearyl ester of fatty acids from olive oil) sold under the trade name OLIVEM 1000.
[031] Other commercially available polymeric emulsifiers are suitable, such as hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid, such as Acrylates / C1030 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers, which are commercially available under the trade names Pemulen® TR-1 and TR-2 from Noveon. Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 20 / 40 9 / 24
[032] Polyalkylene glycoethers are also suitable, such as Brij 72 (polyoxyethylene(2)stearyl) or Brij 721 (polyoxyethylene(21)stearyl), for example, available from Croda.
[033] Particularly advantageous O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention are one or more of the following: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Cetearyl Glucoside; Polyglyceryl Stearate-6 (and) Polyglyceryl Behenate-6, Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate, Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glycosides, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside, CocoGlucoside (and) Coco Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-25, Steareth-2, Ceteareth-25 and Ceteareth-6 (all listed by their INCI names).
[034] It is particularly preferred, according to the invention, if the compositions comprise potassium cetyl phosphate as an emulsifier.
[035] The at least one O / W emulsifier respectively Si / W with all the definitions and preferences given herein is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, as in particular in the range of 0.5 to 5% by weight, as in most, in particular in the range of 0.5 to 4% by weight, as in the range of 1 to 4% by weight, 1 to 3% by weight or 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[036] Suitable O / W or W / Si emulsifiers according to the present invention are polyglycerol esters or fatty acid diesters, also called polyglyceryl ester / diester (i.e., a polymer in which fatty acid(s) is / are linked by esterification with polyglycerol), such as, for example, commercially available from Evonik as Isolan GPS [INCI Name] Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, p. 21 / 40 10 / 24 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (i.e., diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with Polyglycerin-4)] or Dehymuls PGPH available from Cognis (INCI Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglycerol Esters of Oleic / Isostearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaricinolate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Magnesium Stearate, Sodium Stearate, Potassium Laurate, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Sebum, Potassium Castorate, Sodium Oleate and mixtures thereof). Other suitable A / Si emulsifiers are Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3. Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone and / or Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone of PEG-9 and / or Cetyl PEG / PPG10 / 1 Dimethicone and / or PEG-12 Dimethicone Cropolymer and / or PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone.At least one water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of about 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably in an amount of 0.2 to 10%. 7% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
[037] The sun protection compositions according to the present invention also advantageously contain at least one cosurfactant, such as, for example, a cosurfactant selected from the group of mono- and diglycerides and / or fatty alcohols. Cosurfactants are generally used in a selected amount in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly in the range of 0.5 to 7% by weight, in most cases in the range of 1 to 5% by weight, or in the range of 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly suitable cosurfactants are selected from the list of alkyl alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol (Lorol C16, Lanette 16), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O), stearyl alcohol (Lanette 18), behenyl alcohol (Lanette 22), polyhydroxystearic acid, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl myristate (Estol 3650), coco-glycerides. Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 22 / 40 11 / 24 hydrogenated compounds (Lipocire Na10), as well as mixtures thereof.
[038] In all embodiments of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous if the composition also comprises cetostearyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol, preferably both, more preferably in an amount (total) of 1 to 5% by weight, preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[039] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the sunscreen compositions of the present invention further comprise one or more alkanediols. Suitable alkanediols include 1,2-alkanediol and 1,3-alkanediol, such as, in particular, 1,2-butanediol, butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and 1,3-propanediol. Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the use of 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol and / or 1,2-butanediol is most preferred. More preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises, as an alkanediol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol and 1,2-butanediol, preferably in the absence of any other alkanediol. Even more preferably, the compositions comprise butylene glycol, even more preferably as the sole alkanediol.
[040] The (total) amount of alkanediol(s) in the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, as in the range of 2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Other suitable ranges include 2.5 to 5% by weight, or 2.5 to 4% by weight, as in 2.5 to 3.5%.
[041] Even more preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate caprate to alkanediol(s) is selected in the range of 2.5:1 to Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 23 / 40 12 / 24 20:1, preferably 4:1 to 10:1.
[042] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the weight ratio of the alkanediol(s) to BEMT is selected in the range of 0.5:5 to 5:0.5, preferably in the range of 0.5:3 to 3:0.5, more preferably in the range of 5:1 to 1:1. Other suitable ranges are 4:1 to 1:1, 3:1 to 1:1 and 2:1 to 1:1. Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the alkanediol(s) is / are used in excess compared to the amount of BEMT, i.e., in a weight ratio >1.
[043] In a further advantageous aspect of the invention, the sunscreen compositions of the present invention further comprise a preservative and / or a preservative enhancer, preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, propanediol, propylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, hexylglycerin, glyceryl caprylate, as well as mixtures thereof, and even more preferably selected from the group of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, as well as mixtures thereof.When present, the preservative, or preservative enhancer, is preferably used in an amount of 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, or in the range of 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight. 0.75 to 1.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[044] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin, preferably phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.
[045] It is well understood that the term protective composition Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 24 / 40 13 / 24 solar, as used herein, refers to a composition comprising at least BEMT, preferably in the presence of other UV light-absorbing substances, such as substances commonly used as UVA, UVB, or broadband UV filters.
[046] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the composition further comprises butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane and / or diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB).
[047] The amount of butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane, commercially available as PARSOL® 1789, in the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably 2 to 6% by weight, as in the range of 2 to 5% by weight, 3 to 5.5% by weight or 4 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[048] The amount of commercially available diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, for example, as Uvinul® A plus, in the sun protection compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, as in the range of 2 to 5% by weight, 3 to 6% by weight or 4 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[049] In one embodiment, it is preferable that the compositions comprise BEMT and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, preferably in the absence of DHHB, even more preferably as the sole UV filters.
[050] In another embodiment, it is preferable that the compositions comprise BEMT and diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, preferably in the absence of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, even more preferably as the sole UV filters.
[051] How sunscreen compositions work according to Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 25 / 40 14 / 24 inventions are intended for topical application, it is understood that they comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is, a medium compatible with keratinous substances, such as skin, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers. In particular, the physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
[052] The term 'cosmetically acceptable carrier', as used herein, refers to all carriers and / or excipients and / or diluents conventionally used in topical cosmetic compositions, such as in particular in skin care preparations, and includes, for example, cosmetic oils.
[053] The exact amount of carrier will depend on the actual level of UV filter substances and any other optional ingredients that a subject matter expert would classify as distinct from the carrier (e.g., other active ingredients).
[054] In an advantageous embodiment, the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention comprise from 50% to 99%, preferably from 60% to 98%, more preferably from 70% to 98%, and in particular from 80% to 95% of a carrier, based on the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
[055] In a particular advantageous embodiment, the carrier also consists of at least 30% by weight, more preferably at least 40% by weight, and even more preferably at least 45% by weight of water, such as, in particular, 50 to 90% by weight of water. Other suitable ranges are 50 to 75% by weight, 50 to 70% by weight and 55 to 65% by weight.
[056] In particular, the sun protection compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, preferably cosmetic (non-therapeutic) compositions.
[057] In one form, the sun protection compositions of Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 26 / 40 15 / 24 according to the present invention are applied to the keratinous tissue of mammals, such as in particular to human skin or to human scalp and hair.
[058] The term “cosmetic composition”, as used in this application, refers to cosmetic compositions as defined under the heading “Kosmetika” in Rompp Lexikon Chemie, 10th edition, 1997, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, as well as to cosmetic compositions as disclosed in A. Domsch, “Cosmetic Compositions”, Verlag für chemische Industrie (ed. H. Ziolkowsky), 4th edition, 1992.
[059] The preferred sun protection compositions according to the invention are skin care preparations, decorative preparations and functional preparations.
[060] Examples of skin care preparations are, in particular, light protection preparations, anti-aging preparations, preparations for the treatment of photoaging, body lotions, body gels, treatment creams, skin protection ointments, balms, moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, facial and / or body moisturizers, preparations for skin tanning (i.e., compositions for artificial / sunless tanning and / or darkening of human skin), for example, self-tanning creams, as well as preparations for skin lightening.
[061] Examples of decorative preparations are, in particular, mascaras or dry and wet makeup formulations.
[062] Examples of functional preparations are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions that contain active ingredients, such as hormonal preparations, vitamin preparations, plant extract preparations, anti-aging preparations and / or antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) preparations, but not limited to these.
[063] In a specific embodiment, the sun protection compositions according to the invention are preparations Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 27 / 40 16 / 24 photoprotective products (sun protection products, sunscreens), such as sunscreen milks, sunscreen lotions, sunscreen creams, sunblocks, or topical or day care creams with or without SPF (sun protection factor). Of particular interest are sunscreen creams, sunscreen lotions, and sunscreen milks.
[064] The compositions of the invention (including the carrier) may comprise conventional adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives / antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, colorants, dyes / colorants, abrasives, absorbents, chelating and / or sequestering agents, essential oils, skin sensory substances, astringents, pigments or any other ingredients generally formulated in said compositions.
[065] According to the present invention, the compositions according to the invention may comprise additional ingredients, such as ingredients for skin lightening; tanning prevention; hyperpigmentation treatment; prevention or reduction of acne, wrinkles, lines, atrophy and / or inflammation; chelating and / or sequestering agents; anti-cellulite and slimming agents (e.g., phytanic acid), firming, moisturizing and energizing agents, self-tanners, soothing agents, as well as agents to improve skin elasticity and barrier and carriers and / or excipients or diluents conventionally used in sunscreen compositions.
[066] Unless otherwise indicated, the excipients, additives, diluents, etc. mentioned below are suitable for sun protection compositions according to the present invention. The required quantities of cosmetic adjuvants and additives Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 28 / 40 17 / 24 and dermatological recommendations can, based on the desired product, be easily determined by a specialist technician.
[067] Additional ingredients may be added to the oil phase, the water phase, or separately, as appropriate. The method of addition can be easily adapted by a specialist technician.
[068] Examples of excipients, diluents, adjuvants, cosmetic additives, as well as active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry that are suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Personal Care Product Council's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook (http: / / www.personalcarecouncil.org / ), accessible via the online INFO BASE (http: / / online.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp), without being limited to these.
[069] The cosmetically active ingredients useful here may, in some cases, provide more than one benefit or operate through more than one mode of action.
[070] It is clear that a person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients, adjuvants, diluents and optional additional additives mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the combination according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, detrimentally affected by the intended addition(s).
[071] In another advantageous aspect, the sun protection compositions according to the present invention are free of any parabens, benzethonium chloride, piroctone olamine, lauroylarginate, methylisothiazolinone, chlormethylisothiazolinone, bronopol, benzalkonium chloride, formaldehyde-releasing compounds, salicylic acid, triclosan, DMDM hydantoin, chlorphenesin and IPBC (iodopropynylbutyl carbamate).
[072] Preferably, in all forms of the present Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 29 / 40 18 / 24 invention, the compositions are free of octocrylene (CAS number: 6197-30-4).
[073] The term 'octoprylene-free' in all embodiments of the present invention means that no octocrylene is deliberately added to the compositions, i.e., the compound is not detectable with standard analytical means such as HPLC.
[074] In another advantageous aspect, the sun protection compositions according to the present invention are also free of oxybenzone and / or methylbenzylidene camphor.
[075] The sun protection compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more emollients that soothe and soften the skin. For example, the emollient may be silicone (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), vegetable oils (grape seed, sesame seed, jojoba, etc.), butters (cocoa butter, shea butter) and petrolatum derivatives (petroleum jelly, mineral oil).
[076] In another aspect, the sun protection composition of the invention may comprise one or more fragrances selected from limonene, citral, linalool, alpha-isomethyl ionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetraline, adipic diester, cinnamal, amyl salicylate, alpha-amyl cinnamaldehyde, alpha-methyl ionone, butylphenyl methylpropional, cinnamal, amyl cinnamyl alcohol, anise alcohol, benzoin, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, butylphenyl methylpropional, oil of Cardamom, cedrol, cinnamal, cinnamyl alcohol, citronellyl methylcrotonate, citrus oil, coumarin, diethyl succinate, ethyllinalool, eugenol, Evernia furfuracea extract, Evernia prunastri extract, farnesol, guaiac oil, hexyl cinnamal, hexyl salicylate, hydroxycitronellal, lavender oil.lemon oil, acetate, Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, pages 30 / 40 19 / 24 linalyl, tangerine oil, menthyl PCA, methyl hexadecane, nutmeg oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol, tonka bean oil, triethyl citrate, vanillin.
[077] The composition of the invention may advantageously comprise moisturizers. Moisturizers are compounds or mixtures of compounds that give cosmetic compositions the ability, after application or distribution on the skin surface, to reduce moisture loss from the stratum corneum (experimental determination, for example, by transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the stratum corneum and / or maintain a real state of hydration.
[078] Non-limiting examples of advantageous moisturizers for use in the present invention include glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, especially sodium lactate, biosaccharide gum-1, soybean glycine, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Another advantage, in particular, is the use of polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelifiable polysaccharides. Especially advantageous, for example, are hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide that is registered in Chemical Abstracts under registration number 178463-23-5 and is available, for example, under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for protection against skin changes of the type that occur with skin aging, for example.
[079] The cosmetic compositions of the invention may also advantageously, though not necessarily, comprise fillers that have the effect, for example, of further enhancing the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and evoking or intensifying a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers within the meaning of the present invention are Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, page 31 / 40 20 / 24 starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, diamido phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenylsuccinate and the like, for example), Valvance pigments that do not have a primary UV filter effect or a coloring effect (such as Valvance Touch 210 or 250, for example) and / or Aerosils® and / or talc and / or polyethylene, nylon and silica dimethyl silylate.
[080] The aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention may advantageously comprise common cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, particularly those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, or low C number polyols, and also ethers thereof, preferably glycerol, electrolytes, self-tanning agents and also, in particular, one or more thickeners, which may be advantageously selected from the group of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and / or derivatives thereof, for example, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, as well as particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group referred to as carbopols, examples being carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984 and 5984, in each case individually or in combination.Other advantageous thickeners according to the invention are those with the INCI designation of Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (e.g., Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from NOVEON), as well as Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), as well as Simugel NS (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate and Squalane Copolymer and Polysorbate 60). Other suitable thickeners in all embodiments of the present invention are biopolymers such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, and Sphingomonas yeast extract.
[081] According to the invention, it is preferable that the composition comprise one or more thickeners selected from Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, pp. 32 / 40 21 / 24 group consisting of xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and / or vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecane copolymer, preferably xanthan gum and / or hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, more preferably both xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate.
[082] The (total) amount of one or more thickeners in the compositions according to the present invention is preferably selected in the range of 0.1 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.1% by weight, such as in the range of 0.25 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[083] In another aspect, the composition can have an FPS of at least 15, preferably at least 20, more preferably at least 30.
[084] Advantageously, according to the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise other film formers.
[085] It is especially advantageous to select additional film formers from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)-based polymers, as well as capryloyl glycerin / sebacic acid copolymer, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate and / or ethylcellulose.
[086] Particular preference is given to vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as hexadecane PVP copolymer and eicosene PVP copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Corporation.
[087] Equally advantageous as other polymeric film formers are, for example, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, which is available under the trade name Flexan 130 from National Starch and Chemical Corp., and / or polyisobutene, available from Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, pages 33 / 40 22 / 24 Rewo under the trade name Rewopal PIB1000. Examples of other suitable polymers are polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols, acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer (Dermacryl 79). Equally advantageous is the use of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (INCI hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate), which can be purchased from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the name Risocast. DA-H, or PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, which can be purchased under the trade name Crodamol STS from Croda Chemicals.
[088] The sunscreen compositions according to the invention generally have a pH in the range of 3 to 10, preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 8 and more preferably a pH in the range of 4 to 7. The pH can be easily adjusted as desired with suitable acids, such as citric acid, or bases such as NaOH, according to standard methods in the art.
[089] The amount of topical sunscreen emulsion to be applied to the skin is not critical and can be easily adjusted by a specialist technician. Preferably, the amount is selected in the range of 0.1 to 3 mg / cm2 of skin, preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2 mg / cm2 of skin and, most preferably, in the range of 0.5 to 2 mg / cm2 of skin.
[090] According to the invention, the composition of the invention is used for protection against skin aging (especially for protection against UV-induced skin aging) and also as a sun protection composition.
[091] Finally, the subject matter of the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, such as, in particular, skin, in which a composition, as defined in this document, is applied to said keratinous substances, such as, in particular, skin. The method is particularly suitable for protecting the skin against the adverse effects of UV radiation, such as, in particular, sunburn and / or photoaging, while preventing, Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, pp. 34 / 40 23 / 24 fluorescent stains on clothes and / or garments.
[092] The following examples are provided to better illustrate the compositions and effects of the present invention. These examples are merely illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Experimental Part Formulations
[093] The formulations (O / W emulsions) described in Table 1 were prepared according to standard methods in the field. (A) Water repellency test 1) Apply 40mg of the formulation in small drops onto 2µm (5cm x 5cm) Schonberg plates and distribute the formulation evenly. 2) Store the plates at 40°C for 15 minutes. 3) Place a 50 microliter drop of water on the plate, wait 1 minute, and take a picture. 4) Measure the diameter of the drop. 5) For each formulation, 3 drops are measured. Table 1: Sunscreen composition # Trade Name INCI Invention Reference 1 2 3 1 2 3 A Water DEM water Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 Add 100 A Keltrol CG-T xanthan gum 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 A 1,3 Butylene Glycol cos butylene glycol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 B AMPHISOL® K potassium cetyl phosphate 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 B Lanette 18 stearyl alcohol 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 B Lanette O cetearyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 B Finsolv TN C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 15.00 15.00 15.00 15.00 28.00 28.00 B Oxismooth CP Isoamyl Caprate Caprylate 13.00 13.00 13.00 13.00 - - B PARSOL® Shield bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.50 2.50 2.50 - 2.50 - B PARSOL® 340 Octocrylene - - - 2.50 - 2.50 B Parsol® 1789 Butyl methoxy-dibenzoylmethane - 4.5 - - - B DHHB Hydroxybenzoyl diethylamino Hexyl Benzoate - - 5.0 - - - B Sepinov EMT 10 hydroxyethyl acrylate / 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, pages 35 / 40 24 / 24 Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer C Euxil PE 9010 phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Overall sensory attractiveness 1.03 0.89 0.90 1.18 1.16 1.18
[094] As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention exhibit improved water repellency compared to the reference formulation, and the addition of DHHB or Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane further enhances the effect. (B) Sensory evaluation
[095] All sensory evaluations were performed using the emulsions presented in Table 1.
[096] The determination of sensory characteristics was conducted according to a descriptive sensory evaluation process for the parameters described in Table 2 by well-trained tasters. For this, 50 μl of the respective emulsion from Table 1 were applied to a point on the surface of the forearm. After application, the respective emulsion was rubbed until the product was absorbed by the skin. The parameters were evaluated immediately after the rubbing phase. The results are presented in Table 2 below. Table 2: Sensory evaluation results (sensory attractiveness) Sensory Attribute Invention Reference 1 2 3 1 2 3 Viscosity ++ ++ + + 0 + Silkiness + ++ + 0 + 0 Skin lightening by spreading ++ + ++ + + ++ Overall sensory attractiveness ++ ++ ++ + + + ± OK + good ++ very good
[097] As can be seen from Table 2, the compositions according to the present invention exhibit a superior feel and / or appearance on the skin compared with references, resulting in improved overall sensory attractiveness. Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, pp. 36 / 40
Claims
1 / 3 CLAIMS 1. Sunscreen composition characterized in that it comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and one or more cosmetic oils, wherein at least one of the cosmetic oils is isoamyl caprylate.
2. Sunscreen composition, according to claim 1, characterized in that the amount of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in the composition is selected in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
3. Sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the amount of isoamyl caprylate caprate in the composition is selected in the range of 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 20% by weight, most preferably 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. Sunscreen composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of isoamyl caprylate caprate to bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is selected in the range of 2.5:1 to 20:1, preferably 4:1 to 10:
1.
5. Sunscreen composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one additional cosmetic oil selected from the group consisting of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacates, dicaprylate carbonate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrates, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonates, hydrogenated castor oil dimerates, triheptanoin, C12-13 alkyl lactates, C16-17 alkyl benzoates, propyl heptyl caprylates, caprylic / capric triglycerides, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalates, Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, p. 37 / 40 2 / 3 octyldodecanol and ethylhexyl cocoates are present.
6. Sunscreen composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one additional cosmetic oil is C12-C15 alkylbenzoate.
7. Sunscreen composition, according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the weight ratio of at least one additional cosmetic oil to isoamyl caprylate caprate is selected in the range of 5:1 to 1:5, preferably 2.5:1 to 1:2.5, more preferably 1.5:1 to 1:1.
5.
8. Sunscreen compositions, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is an O / W emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier, preferably in the presence of a cetyl phosphate emulsifier, more preferably in the presence of potassium cetyl phosphate.
9. Sunscreen composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sunscreen composition further comprises butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane and / or diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
10. Sunscreen composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sunscreen composition further comprises one or more alkanediols, preferably selected from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol and 1,2-butandiol, more preferably from 1,3-propanediol and butylene glycol, most preferably butylene glycol is used as the sole alkanediol.
11. Sunscreen composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the composition further comprises one or more preservatives / preservative enhancers selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.
12. Sunscreen composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more of xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
13. Sunscreen composition, according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more of behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate, preferably behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, preferably cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
14. Use of isoamyl caprylate characterized by the fact that it is for increasing water repellency, wherein a sunscreen composition contains bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.
15. Method for improving the water repellency of sunscreen compositions, characterized in that said method comprises the step of preparing a sunscreen composition comprising both bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and isoamyl caprylate, applying said composition to the skin, allowing the volatile constituents to evaporate, thus forming a hydrophobic film and, optionally, appreciating the effect. Petition 870250082389, dated 12 / 09 / 2025, pp. 39 / 40