Yarn, method and apparatus for producing yarn and product formed from yarn

Abstract

The yarn comprises one or more strands, each strand consisting of an outer layer twisted with a continuous or substantially continuous core, the outer layer comprising coarse wool fibers. The coarse wool has an average fiber diameter greater than 26 micrometers. The yarn may be worsted or semi-worsted. Fabrics and / or garments may be produced from this yarn.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to yarn, methods and apparatus for producing yarn comprising coarse wool and fibers, and products formed from such yarn. Background Technology

[0002] The demand for natural fibers is increasing due to their desirable properties and avoidance of the undesirable environmental problems associated with petroleum-based products. Wool possesses excellent heat retention, moisture resistance, abrasion resistance, slip resistance, odor control, antibacterial properties, reflective properties, and noise absorption properties. Generally, there is a need for improved abrasion resistance in wool clothing, especially for outdoor gear and socks.

[0003] Coarse wool (also known as crossbred wool, carpet wool, or strong wool in New Zealand) as used in this specification refers to wool with a diameter greater than approximately 26 microns. Coarse wool is generally considered suitable only for lower-grade applications such as upholstery (better grades of coarse wool) and carpet making (lower grades of coarse wool). Coarse wool has been tried in clothing, but the garments are thick, uncomfortable, and become frizzy after washing. Due to its limited applications and lower value, coarse wool is a relatively low-cost fiber.

[0004] Traditional ring frame machines have been used to produce yarn from wool tops and have been successfully used to process fine wool, such as Merino wool, which typically has a fiber diameter of less than 25 micrometers and a length of less than 90 mmH (millimeters of length, a length measurement used in industry). Such machines cannot process longer fibers (>90 mmH) into fine yarn. The applicant believes this may be because the twist required to give the fine yarn structure may tend to cause long, low-diameter fibers to break during processing. Furthermore, long fibers may tend to get stuck simultaneously in the feed and output rollers of conventional machines. Other issues regarding the control of longer fibers can lead to significant variations in the thickness of the resulting yarn. Coarser carpet yarns can be spun using a carding process (as opposed to worsting) with lower twist and coarser, longer fibers.

[0005] While products made from Merino wool are very popular, Merino wool is expensive and not particularly durable. Therefore, Merino wool is not suitable for certain applications.

[0006] The applicant has obtained patents for methods (referred to herein as the “Nu Yarn method”) and apparatus (referred to herein as the “Nu Yarn machine”) for producing self-twisted yarn, as disclosed in NZ552416, NZ522596, US8429889B2, US7752832B2, WO2004044290A1, and WO2008079025A1, the disclosure of each of the foregoing references being incorporated herein by reference. The Nu Yarn machine and method relate to self-twisted yarn and have been used to date in fine wool such as Merino wool.

[0007] To date, using coarse wool to manufacture fine yarns, lightweight fabrics, or high-value garments has been considered impractical due to processing challenges and the perceived unsuitability of coarse wool for such applications. These high-value garments typically have a fiber density of less than 400 g / m². 2 More typically less than 200 g / m 2 The weight of the fabric.

[0008] The goal is to provide fine yarns, fabrics and / or clothing or other products based on coarse wool, or at least to offer useful options to the public. Summary of the Invention

[0009] The applicant has been pleasantly surprised to find that the Nu Yarn method and machine are applicable to processing coarse wool to produce yarns and products with properties previously unattainable. While this result is based on self-twisting Nu Yarn technology, in certain aspects of the invention, yarns can be produced using alternative technologies (e.g., adapted ring spinning technology) or by novel spinning machines. Unless expressly excluded, yarns produced by such alternative technologies are intended to fall within the scope of the claims.

[0010] Furthermore, this invention is limited to worsted or semi-worsted yarns. It is not intended to include wool spun yarns.

[0011] In a first aspect, a method is provided for producing fine yarn from coarse wool slivers using a self-twisting spinning machine. The spinning machine can be a Nu Yarn machine as defined above.

[0012] A sliver can be formed from wool yarn strands with an average fiber diameter greater than 26 micrometers and a length greater than 100 mmH, or a diameter greater than 30 micrometers and a length greater than 100 mmH, or a diameter greater than 33 micrometers and a length greater than 100 mmH, or a diameter greater than 36 micrometers and a length greater than 100 mmH, or a diameter greater than 36 micrometers and a length greater than 110 mmH.

[0013] The yarn can have a linear density of less than 60 tex (17 Nm), or less than 50 tex (20 Nm), or less than 40 tex (25 Nm), or between 20 tex (50 Nm) and 40 tex (25 Nm).

[0014] Prior to spinning, wool may be brushed and / or combed and / or superwashed (using the Hercosett process or similar processes) or, as appropriate, processed in other ways suitable for worsted or semi-worsted yarns. Such treatments are well known in the art.

[0015] Yarn can be used to produce fabrics using any suitable process. For example, knitted fabrics can be formed using a conventional weft knitting machine. This fabric can be used directly or formed into multi-layered fabrics through lamination or bonding. Waterproof chemical treatments can be applied to the outer fabric layers, or a diaphragm can be placed between two fabrics to provide waterproof and windproof properties.

[0016] Alternatively, two or more yarns can be interwoven to form a fabric having a layer (or surface) mainly composed of coarse wool yarns and another layer (or opposite surface) mainly composed of another yarn such as merino wool, Tencel, polypropylene, or polyester.

[0017] This fabric preferably has a content of less than 400 g / m². 2 More preferably below 200 g / m 2 The weight.

[0018] The yarn can also be used to make socks. This yarn can be used only for the high-wear areas of the heel and toe, while other yarns are used for other areas.

[0019] On the other hand, worsted or semi-worsted yarns may include one or more strands, each strand including an outer layer twisted with a continuous or substantially continuous core, the outer layer comprising coarse wool fibers.

[0020] The yarn can be worsted yarn.

[0021] The yarn may comprise two or more of the aforementioned strands. The strands may twist together.

[0022] A continuous or substantially continuous core may constitute at least 15% of the yarn by weight.

[0023] The yarn can have a linear density of less than 80 tex (12.5 Nm).

[0024] On the other hand, worsted or semi-worsted yarns may be formed from one or more strands, each strand comprising: a core of at least 15% by weight of continuous or substantially continuous core; and an outer layer twisted with the core, the outer layer comprising coarse wool fibers.

[0025] The yarn may include 15% to 50% by weight of a continuous or substantially continuous core.

[0026] On the other hand, yarns with a linear density of less than 80 tex (12.5 Nm) may comprise two or more strands, each strand comprising an outer layer twisted with a continuous or substantially continuous core, the outer layer comprising coarse wool fibers.

[0027] The following characteristics may apply to any of the above aspects. The yarn may have a linear density of less than 60 tex (17 Nm). The yarn may have a linear density in the range of 25 tex (40 Nm) to 60 tex (17 Nm).

[0028] Coarse wool fibers can have an average fiber diameter greater than 26 micrometers. Coarse wool fibers can have an average fiber diameter greater than 30 micrometers. Coarse wool fibers can have an average fiber diameter greater than 33 micrometers. Coarse wool fibers can have an average fiber diameter greater than 36 micrometers.

[0029] Coarse wool fibers can have an average fiber diameter ranging from 30 to 40 micrometers. Coarse wool fibers can have an average fiber diameter ranging from 36 to 38 micrometers.

[0030] The coarse wool fibers in a wool top can have an average fiber length of 100 mmH or greater. The coarse wool fibers in a wool top can have an average fiber length of 110 mmH or greater. The coarse wool fibers in a wool top can have an average fiber length in the range of 100 mmH to 130 mmH.

[0031] The outer layer may include at least 10% coarse wool by weight. The outer layer may include at least 20% coarse wool by weight. The outer layer may include at least 30% coarse wool by weight.

[0032] A continuous or substantially continuous core may include at least one synthetic filament. The synthetic filament may have a thickness ranging from 10 denier to 80 denier. The at least one synthetic filament may be a nylon filament. Alternatively, the at least one synthetic filament may be a polyester filament.

[0033] A continuous or substantially continuous core may include at least one filament or thread formed from natural fibers. The thread may have a thickness in the range of 10 tex (100 Nm) to 20 tex (50 Nm).

[0034] Yarn can be made from 100% natural fibers.

[0035] On the other hand, the fabric may include yarns as described in any of the above aspects. Clothing may include such fabric.

[0036] On the other hand, a method for producing yarn may include: forming two or more twisted strands, each strand being formed by passing a coarse wool strip and a continuous or substantially continuous core through a reciprocating twisting table, the twisting table including a pair of twisting rollers adapted to rotate about an axis of rotation and adapted to reciprocate along the axis of rotation, each strand having a twisting region separated by an untwisted region; and combining the strands together by self-twisting them to form yarn.

[0037] On the other hand, methods for producing yarn may include an outer layer twisted with a continuous or substantially continuous core, the outer layer comprising coarse wool fibers. Attached Figure Description

[0038] The invention will be described by way of example only and with reference to the accompanying drawings, wherein:

[0039] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of a wool spinning apparatus according to one embodiment;

[0040] Figure 2 yes Figure 1 A schematic side view of the device;

[0041] Figure 3 illustrates one embodiment of the twisting roller drive mechanism; and

[0042] Figure 4 shows another embodiment of the twisting roller drive mechanism. Detailed Implementation

[0043] When fiber length is mentioned in this specification, it refers to mmH (millimeters Hauter measured using an Almeter length distribution tester approved by IWTO-17).

[0044] The term "continuous or substantially continuous core" as used in this specification and claims includes continuous or substantially continuous natural or synthetic yarns, filaments, etc., including the outer layer of coarse wool fibers that are bonded to it during yarn production to form a yarn strand. A core may comprise a single yarn, filament, etc., or may comprise two or more such yarns, filaments, etc.

[0045] As used in this specification and claims, the term "outer" refers to the fiber that is bonded to the core during yarn production to form the yarn strand. The outer layer includes coarse wool fibers. The terms "outer" and "core" do not necessarily require the core to be completely contained within the outer layer in the final yarn, although this may be desired in some embodiments.

[0046] As used in this specification and claims, the terms "self-twisted yarn" and "self-twisted yarn" refer to a yarn comprising two or more yarn strands having twisted regions in the z-direction alternating with twisted regions in the s-direction, and also having untwisted regions between each twisted region, wherein at least one twisted yarn strand is in contact with at least another twisted yarn strand, whereby these twisted yarn strands self-twistwist together (wrap around each other) to form a yarn. The term "self-twisted" has the corresponding meaning.

[0047] The term "ply" as used in this specification and claims is used in its conventional sense to include single-ply yarn, plied yarn, spun yarn, and cable yarn, etc. A ply can be a continuous filament bundle, a continuous form of discontinuous filaments, an untreated or pretreated drafting comb to increase its tensile strength, a continuous filament produced by a tow process, or a combination of short fibers, such as staple yarn, and one or more continuous filaments.

[0048] The measurement terms “Tex” and Nm are used with their standard meanings in the field. Tex is the linear density measured in grams per 1000 meters of yarn. Nm (or metric count) is measured in kilometers per kilogram of yarn. Typically, Tex = 1000 / Nm.

[0049] Coarse wool can be selected to have a diameter greater than 26 micrometers (i.e., average fiber diameter), but an average diameter greater than 30 micrometers, 33 micrometers, or 36 micrometers can be used. The average diameter can be in the range of 26 to 40 micrometers, or in the range of 32 to 40 micrometers, or in the range of 36 to 38 micrometers.

[0050] Coarse wool fibers can have a length greater than 100 mmH (i.e., the average fiber length in the wool sliver), and this length can be greater than 110 mmH. This length can be in the range of 100 mmH to 130 mmH.

[0051] Therefore, coarse wool is relatively long and coarse. Wool fibers can be relatively straight, or fibers with higher "curl" can be used, and these fibers can provide improved insulation and / or mechanical cushioning.

[0052] Before spinning, the selected wool may undergo several pretreatment steps. The wool may be brushed to remove grease, sweat, and dirt. It may then be combed to remove imperfections such as plant matter. If necessary, the wool may be combed to remove short fibers. The wool may then be superwashed, preferably using the Hercosett process or a similar process, to remove dander and apply polymers to the wool fibers, thereby reducing shrinkage and pilling levels and making the final product machine washable.

[0053] Where appropriate for worsted or semi-worsted yarns, wool may be subjected to any other suitable pretreatment. Such methods are known in the art.

[0054] The outer material can be 100% coarse wool. However, in some applications, blends or other compositions of the material can be used. For example, blends of coarse wool with other fibers can be used. For example, blends of coarse wool with synthetic fibers or other natural fibers or other wool fibers (including compact blends) can be used. Blends of coarse and fine wool, such as a 50:50 blend of coarse wool and merino wool, can be used. The outer material may contain 10% to 100% coarse wool by weight. The outer material may include at least 10%, at least 20%, or at least 30% coarse wool by weight.

[0055] In one embodiment, the outer fabric may include a coarse wool / Merino wool blend in which coarse wool comprises more than 50% by weight. For example, the outer fabric may be formed from a blend of coarse wool and Merino wool in a 90:10 weight ratio. Coarse wool and Merino wool may be blended to provide blended roving. Any range of coarse wool and / or Merino wool properties disclosed herein may be used, but in one embodiment, coarse wool with an average fiber diameter in the range of 36 to 38 micrometers may be used. Generally and not wishing to be bound by theory, the applicant believes that such a blend provides improved spinning performance and / or improved yarn properties. This is currently believed to be due to the fact that the finer and shorter Merino wool fibers provide more connections between fibers along the length of the yarn. This, in turn, reduces the number of coarse wool fibers required to provide sufficient yarn structure. Therefore, such a blend can be suitable for producing finer yarns (e.g., about 25 tex in a two-ply yarn with two 12.5 tex plies, or even finer). The hand feel of the yarn may also be improved. This blend can be used with any core material discussed in this article.

[0056] The core can be a continuous or substantially continuous natural or synthetic yarn, filament, etc. As will be discussed below, the outer material and the core are spun and combined to produce a yarn ply. Any suitable core material can be used. Any suitable number and weight of core yarn, filament, etc. can be used.

[0057] In some applications, a core formed from one or more synthetic filaments can be used. The core can be formed from any suitable synthetic material—nylon, polyester, or polyamide may be suitable. Synthetic monofilaments, such as nylon monofilaments, can be used. Alternatively, synthetic multifilaments can be used.

[0058] Synthetic core filaments can have a weight of 10 to 80 denier, but other values ​​may also be suitable. In some embodiments, nylon core filaments can be used and can have a weight of 11 to 30 denier, and any suitable number and weight of filaments can be used in each core. For example, in one application, the core may consist of seven 11-denier nylon filaments. In another application, the core may consist of five 17-denier nylon filaments. In other embodiments, polyester core filaments can be used and can have a weight of 20 to 80 denier. In one application, the core may consist of twelve 20-denier polyester filaments.

[0059] In other applications, a core formed from natural fibers may be desirable. Natural or non-synthetic spun filaments, threads, or yarns can be used. For example, a continuous or substantially continuous core formed from cotton or wool yarn / yarn or other natural fibers can be used. Alternatively, processed natural fibers such as rayon, viscose, lyocell (sold as Tencel), or similar processed core materials based on natural products can be used. Natural core yarns can have a weight in the range of 10 tex (100 Nm) to 20 tex (50 Nm), but other values ​​may be suitable for some applications.

[0060] Any combination of core materials can be used. For example, the core may include one or more filaments formed of a first material and one or more filaments formed of a second material.

[0061] In some implementations, the core may constitute about 15% to 50% of the yarn by weight.

[0062] The selected and pre-treated outer material can be spun and bonded to the core using the Nu Yarn machine and Nu Yarn method as defined above. However, other machines and methods may be used. To avoid sliver tangling, two feeders can be used to maintain separation between the strands, but a larger number of feeders can be used if a greater spacing is provided between the feeders or if the slivers are otherwise isolated from each other. In general, any suitable method that provides sufficient separation of the introduced slivers or strands can be used, such as any one or more of the following: increasing the spacing of the slivers or strands by skipping some inputs (e.g., using every other sliver input); increasing the spacing of the slivers or strands by increasing the width of the machine and / or the spacing between the sliver inputs; and, for example, physically separating the slivers or strands by including physical separators such as fins, plates, etc., between the introduced slivers or strands.

[0063] Faster take-up speeds of over 160 m / min can be used, and even speeds of over 200 m / min can be used. This results in a significant reduction in energy consumption (e.g., a 35% reduction). Since each frame processes at 200 m / min, this also reduces the effective machine footprint and cost compared to a conventional ring spinning machine operating at 14 m / min.

[0064] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of a spinning apparatus 1 according to one embodiment. The spinning apparatus 1 can be a self-twisting spinning machine, such as a NuYarn machine.

[0065] Spinning equipment 1 may include a drafting unit 2. Drafting unit 2 may include opposing, preferably rubber-coated rollers or belts, through which fibers (as slivers) pass. In the illustrated example, two slivers S (solid lines) and S' (dashed lines) of the outer material may be introduced into drafting unit 2 via feed rollers 3. Each sliver of the outer material may be pulled out from a drum or other mass supply device (not shown). The outer material may include coarse wool in the range of 10% to 100% by weight. The outer material may be any suitable mixture of material and coarse wool.

[0066] The outer material fibers are drawn out by the drafting unit, where the thickness of the outer material sliver is typically reduced to between one-half and one-twenty-fifth of its initial thickness. The amount of thickness reduction can be adjusted by changing the rotational speed of the drafting unit.

[0067] After drawing, cores C (solid line) and C' (dashed line) can be combined with each strip of outer material. Each continuous or substantially continuous core can be pulled out from a roller, spool, or other mass feed device and can be fed together with the drawn outer material through guide 4 (e.g., a feed ring or eyelet or other device for combining the two).

[0068] Cores C and C' can be continuous or substantially continuous. Cores can be any suitable natural or synthetic yarn or filament, as discussed elsewhere in this specification.

[0069] The combined outer materials S, S' and cores C, C' can pass through additional feed rollers 5 and be conveyed to the reciprocating twisting table 6. As each strand of the outer material and core passes through the guides 4 and rollers 5, the core can be pressed into or otherwise combined with the strands or sliver of the outer material. The core can be pressed into the middle of the outer material such that the core is surrounded by the fibers of the outer material. The reciprocating twisting table 6 may include at least one rotating roller 6a, which also... Figure 1 The roller reciprocates as indicated by arrow A. This reciprocating roller can be positioned opposite a stationary element (such as a flat surface), or as... Figure 2 As shown, it can be positioned opposite the second rotating roller 6b. The second rotating roller can simply rotate, or it can reciprocate along its axis.

[0070] The outer material and the core pass through the reciprocating twisting roller 6 and are twisted by the reciprocating twisting roller 6.

[0071] Twisting rollers 6a and 6b twist the sliver passing between them in one direction as the rollers move along their axes in one direction, and then twist in the opposite direction as the rollers move along their axes in the other direction. The length of each twisted region in the sliver S can be controlled by controlling the lateral speed of the oscillating motion of rollers 6a and 6b relative to their forward rotational speed (as discussed in the applicant's prior patents listed above). A slower lateral speed relative to a certain forward rotational speed will produce a longer twisted region in the sliver, first in one direction and then in the other.

[0072] The twisted yarn strands leave the twisting roller 6 and combine at the guide (e.g., feed ring, eyelet, or similar device) 7. The combined yarn strands can self-twist together to form yarn Y.

[0073] The yarn strands can have different travel path lengths between the twisting roller and the guide 7. As the yarn strands leave the guide 7, they tend to self-twist together, or alternatively, an additional twisting mechanism can be optionally provided to help twist the yarn strands together to form the finished yarn. This additional twisting mechanism can be controlled to vary the degree to which the individual yarn strands are twisted together, i.e., it can be controlled to control the "twist within the twist" of the yarn.

[0074] The yarn can be twisted at a twist of less than 600 turns or about 500 turns per meter (i.e., the number of turns twisted in one direction and then in the other direction), and most preferably, at a twist of about 250 to 300 turns and 400 to 500 turns per meter.

[0075] Each strand of yarn can travel a path of varying lengths relative to the other strands, such that the twisted areas of each strand are staggered or out of phase with each other. In this type of yarn, the varying path lengths cause the untwisted areas of each strand in the finished yarn to overlap with the twisted areas of other strands.

[0076] In another embodiment, the device of the present invention is capable of adjusting the position of guides or eyelets or their mechanical equivalents to change the overlap point or relative phase of the yarn strands, wherein these guides or eyelets or their mechanical equivalents bind individual yarn strands together. The adjustment of the guides or their equivalents can also be controlled by a microprocessor-based control system of the device.

[0077] The yarn Y can then be wound onto the take-up holder H (e.g., a spool), the speed of which can be controlled as discussed in the applicant's prior patents listed above. The drive system for the take-up holder H can be controlled by a control system that allows control of the ratio between the linear speed of the yarn winding onto the take-up holder and the linear speed of the yarn strand leaving the twisting roller 6. A common control system can control the rotational speeds of the twisting rollers 6a and 6b and the take-up holder H. By controlling the rotational speed of the take-up holder using the rotational speed of the twisting rollers, the tension applied to the yarn leaving the twisting table can be controlled and varied.

[0078] As more yarn is wound onto the take-up holder H, the effective circumference of the take-up holder and the wound yarn gradually increases. Therefore, if the rotational speed of the take-up holder remains constant, as more yarn is wound onto the take-up holder, the twisted strands leaving the twisting roller or conveying roller will be under increased tension.

[0079] It has also been found that environmental factors such as humidity can affect the mechanical components of existing spinning machines used to apply tension to self-twisted yarns, causing the positive tension applied to the yarn by these machines to be applied inconsistently when environmental factors change.

[0080] Therefore, when the yarn is wound onto the take-up frame 8, the speed of the drive take-up frame can be controlled so that the linear speed of the yarn wound onto the take-up frame remains constant.

[0081] It has been found that changing the tension applied to the self-twisted yarn after the twisted yarn leaves the twisting roller alters the yarn's twist distribution, yarn structure, and properties, as disclosed in the applicant's prior patents listed above. In particular, it has been found that yarn subjected to low tension after leaving the twisting table and before winding onto the take-up frame (low-tension yarn, which may be preferred for many applications, wherein the take-up frame speed is less than the speed at which the yarn leaves the twisting roller) will have a different yarn structure than yarn subjected to positive tension after leaving the twisting table (high-tension yarn, wherein the take-up frame speed is greater than the speed at which the yarn leaves the twisting roller).

[0082] The resulting yarn preferably has a linear density of less than 80 tex (12 Nm), or less than 60 tex (17 Nm), or less than 50 tex (20 Nm), more preferably less than 40 tex. The yarn may have a linear density in the range of 20 tex (50 Nm) to 70 tex (14 Nm), more preferably between 20 tex (50 Nm) and 40 tex (25 Nm).

[0083] The fabric can be produced using any suitable process, including, for example, conventional weft knitting machines or other suitable machinery. The yarn can be used on machines with 28 gg (needles per inch) or less. 180 g / m 2 Plain knit fabrics are produced on a 20gg weft knitting machine.

[0084] Fabrics can be uniformly knitted or woven from yarns produced as described above. Alternatively, fabrics can be formed by combining such yarns with other yarns (e.g., knitted or woven). For example, a fabric can be knitted such that the outer surface is formed at least primarily of yarns containing coarse wool, while the inner surface is formed at least primarily of merino wool. Coarse wool provides a durable outer surface for the final garment, while merino wool provides good properties against or near the skin.

[0085] The fabrics produced as described above can be laminated or bonded to other fabrics or layers. For example, a coarse wool outer layer can be combined with a range of possible inner layers and may include a water-repellent chemical treatment of the outer (coarse wool) layer or a diaphragm between the two fabric layers to provide water-repellent and windproof properties. The coarse wool outer layer provides an abrasion-resistant outer surface with advantageous low reflectivity, excellent tensile properties, excellent abrasion resistance, noise absorption properties, excellent thermal properties, and minimal odor.

[0086] This new type of yarn has also been used to produce other fabrics, examples of which include:

[0087] 1. Cashmere Fabrics - Coarse Wool and Merino Wool - Coarse wool yarns are knitted as the outer layer (outer layer) and fine merino wool (19.5 microns) yarns are knitted as the inner layer (inner layer). Coarse wool yarns formed from 25 tex (40 Nm) (for nylon core) and 30 tex (33 Nm) (for polyester core) are knitted to produce fabrics with a weight range of 240 g / m². 2 With 330 g / m 2 The ideal weight for pile fabrics is between 28 gg and 20 gg. It is considered that machines using 28 gg to 20 gg are suitable for producing fabrics weighing less than 200 g / m². 2 Pile fabrics should be possible.

[0088] 2. Coarse wool and synthetic double-sided fabrics such as cashmere can be formed by an outer layer of coarse wool and an inner layer of merino wool blended with Tencel, polypropylene, polyester, or nylon. Alternatively, the inner layer can be made solely of Tencel, polypropylene, polyester, or nylon. The range of fiber types is not limited to the examples above.

[0089] Generally speaking, fabrics including the applicant's yarns can have a density of 185 g / m². 2 Up to 500 g / m 2 The weight range. Fabrics including the applicant's yarns may have a weight of less than 400 g / m². 2 or less than 200 g / m 2 The weight.

[0090] Fabrics containing coarse wool fibers according to the invention exhibit significantly improved abrasion resistance. Testing was conducted using a Martindale Tester Machine GT-C13B-4 according to test standards ASTM 4966 / 4970, ISO 5470, ISO 12945-2:2016, and ISO 12945-2:2000. Samples of the applicant's fabrics showed abrasion resistance rating in the range of 3.81 to 4.67, compared to the expected abrasion resistance rating of approximately 3.75 for synthetic materials and approximately 2 for merino wool.

[0091] Socks made with the new coarse wool yarn exhibit exceptional abrasion resistance, lasting up to three times longer. Tests conducted on socks made with the new coarse wool yarn yielded an abrasion score of 4.89 out of 5 (compared to the typical abrasion score of 3.75 for synthetic materials and around 2 for merino wool). Testing was performed using a Martindale Tester Machine GT-C13B-4 according to testing standards ASTM 4966 / 4970, ISO 5470, ISO 12945-2:2016, and ISO 12945-2:2000.

[0092] The socks also exhibit significantly improved anti-slip properties.

[0093] This novel coarse wool yarn can be used only in high-wear areas such as the heel and toe areas without nylon reinforcement, and can be knitted on a 36 gg 156-gauge, 3 ¾” hosiery knitting machine. The rest of the sock can be made of a 19.5-micron to 24-micron terry wool inner layer (providing a comfortable, fine wool feel close to the skin) and a nylon-coated outer layer ranging from 16 tex (62 Nm) to 60 tex (17 Nm) (nylon reinforcement to overcome the deterioration of the merino wool). Generally, any garment may include areas using the applicant's coarse wool yarn as well as other areas formed by other yarns.

[0094] Garments made from novel coarse wool yarns can include outerwear and outdoor clothing, including tops, bottoms, and socks, and can exhibit any one or more of the following desired properties:

[0095] • Wear-resistant outer surface with excellent wear resistance properties

[0096] • Excellent thermal properties

[0097] • Excellent tensile properties

[0098] • Low reflectivity

[0099] • Noise absorption

[0100] • It's more slip-resistant than synthetic materials when used in socks—because nylon gets wet and starts to slide around the heels and toes of shoes or boots.

[0101] • Less odor

[0102] • Environmentally friendly—non-petroleum-based

[0103] • Less moisture

[0104] • Lower bacterial count

[0105] Any suitable drive and control device, including the apparatus described in the applicant's prior patents listed above, can be used to drive and / or control the movement of various rollers, drawing tables, winding frames, etc. In the case of a self-twisting machine, any of the following parameters of the machine, as well as any other suitable parameters, can be controlled.

[0106] At the point where the roller changes direction, untwisted areas can be found in the yarn strand. If the roller changes direction relatively quickly at each end of its transverse reciprocating motion, only relatively small untwisted areas will exist between each opposite twisted area, while by making the roller change direction relatively slowly at or toward that end of its transverse motion or by pausing, relatively long untwisted areas will be formed in the sliver.

[0107] The degree of lateral reciprocating motion or oscillation (throw) of rollers 6a and 6b can also be varied relative to their forward rotational speed to achieve a desired degree of twist or a desired twist distribution in the yarn. Additionally or alternatively, the desired degree of twist can be obtained by changing the rotational speed of twisting rollers 6a and 6b. Additionally or alternatively, the degree of twist or twist distribution can also be changed by adjusting the speed of the lateral reciprocating motion of the twisting rollers (relative to the rotational speed of the twisting rollers).

[0108] Variations in the speed and / or degree of the lateral movement of the twisting roller, or oscillation and / or rotational speed and / or uptake speed—any or more, but preferably all, can be controlled by a microprocessor-based control system with an associated user interface. The user can program any desired roller speed, degree of lateral roller movement, rate of lateral roller movement, uptake speed, or combination of all these into the machine for use in any production run to achieve the desired twist distribution in the yarn ply or the resulting multiply yarn.

[0109] Yarns produced with different roller speeds and movements can have different properties, and these yarns can be used to produce fabrics with different properties, or to form knitted or woven products suitable for different end applications from yarns with different properties.

[0110] Figures 3 and 4 show examples of devices for driving twisting rollers, which are similar to those devices listed above in the applicant's prior patents.

[0111] In the apparatus shown in Figure 3, electric motors 7a and 7b drive the rotation of twisting rollers 6a and 6b. The rotational speed of rollers 6a and 6b can be changed by altering the speed of electric motors 7a and 7b or by any other suitable mechanism. The roller drive motors can be controlled by a suitable controller, such as a user-programmable microprocessor-based control system. Electric motor 9, such as a servo motor, can drive the reciprocating motion of twisting rollers 6a and 6b, and electric motor 9 can be controlled to change the speed and / or extent of the reciprocating lateral motion of the twisting rollers. Servo motor 9 or gears drive rotating and counter-rotating pulleys or sprockets (not shown), and servo motor 9 or gears are connected to cables or chains 14 extending around pulleys or gears 13. Cables or chains 15 also extend around pulleys or gears 13 and are connected at one end to shaft 16a and at the other end to shaft 16b via a rotary joint or similar device. The rotation of the output of motor 9, and then its reverse rotation, as indicated by arrow C, drives cable 15, and thus drives twisting rollers 6a and 6b in a reciprocating motion. That is, movement of cable or chain 14 counterclockwise by servo motor 9 causes cable or chain 15 to move counterclockwise and, as the two rollers rotate, roller 6a moves laterally in one direction while roller 6b moves laterally in the opposite direction. Conversely, when servo motor 9 reverses its direction, movement of cable or chain 14 clockwise by servo motor 9 causes cable or chain 15 to move clockwise and, as the two rollers rotate, roller 6a moves laterally in the opposite direction while roller 6b moves laterally in one direction. Twisting roller shafts 8a and 8b are attached at their other ends to cable or chain 11, which is wound around pulley or gear 12 via a rotary joint or similar device.

[0112] Rollers 6a and 6b can be mounted for rotary and reciprocating lateral motion by passing rollers 8a and 8b through sliding bearings 10 on one or both sides (shown only on one side – the right-hand side of Figure 3), or similarly. Rollers 8a and 8b can slide through electric motors 7a and 7b that drive the rollers, while also allowing lateral reciprocating motion of the roller / roller drive shaft. Alternatively, a telescopic coupling can be provided between the roller drive shaft and the rotary drive motors 7a and 7b.

[0113] Variations in the oscillation and / or rotational speed of the twisting rollers can be achieved using other suitable equivalent mechanical or electromechanical devices without the use of servo motors. Figure 4 illustrates an alternative drive system for twisting rollers 6a and 6b. In this case, both rollers are rotated and moved laterally by electric motors 20, which not only rotate the output drive shaft but also move the output drive shaft axially while rotating itself. The rotational speed and extent of the axial or lateral movement of each motor in motor 20 can be programmably controlled by the machine's control system.

[0114] In another embodiment, additional rollers, drawing tables, and / or twisting rollers may be used, as disclosed in the applicant’s prior patents listed above.

[0115] Most preferably, the machine of the present invention may include a control system capable of programmably changing the rotational speed of the twisting roller, the speed of the lateral movement of the twisting roller, and the degree of lateral movement of the twisting roller or multiple pairs of twisting rollers. Yarns with a wide range of different twist characteristics can be produced on such a machine, which in turn enables the production of fabrics or knitted or woven products with a wide range of different fabric or product properties for various fabric or product applications; the yarn is machined to optimize the desired performance characteristics of the fabrics or products produced from the yarn. Changing the twist level along the length of the yarn allows for optimization of the yarn's volume or strength. The exposed surfaces of the constituent fibers can be modified to have different twist characteristics to more effectively optimize specific physical properties, such as the ability of wool to absorb and desorb moisture or water vapor. Fiber shedding and / or pilling can be reduced by simply and tightly twisting at intervals smaller than the fiber length of the constituent fibers. The shock absorption performance of the terry loop sole structure in socks can be improved. The ability to adjust the juxtaposition of different twist (or untwisted) levels among the constituent yarns allows for increased or optimized friction between the constituent yarns to increase the strength of the multiply yarn, and enables the achievement of a specific desired surface appearance of the resulting yarn. When a core filament is also incorporated into the yarn, this allows for a greater degree of variability. It also allows for the reduction of the required twist level for a given multiply yarn containing a core filament and sufficient strength for knitting or weaving, thereby increasing the volume or exposed fiber surface area for a given weight of yarn. For example, multiply yarns used to produce high-quality, lightweight wool knitwear can be produced with relatively long twisted regions and shorter untwisted regions in individual strands or plyes of yarn incorporated into a continuous core filament as described above. Yarns used for producing terry fabrics can be produced with shorter, medium-twist regions between longer untwist regions in the yarn strands, and the yarns used for producing terry fabrics can also contain core filaments (to produce longer untwist regions, the lateral reciprocating motion of the twisting roller can be slowed down or stopped at either end of the lateral roller movement while the roller continues to rotate forward, and the machine can be programmed to move the roller relatively quickly when it moves laterally to reduce the length of the twisted region, during which the forward rotation of the roller can optionally be slowed down). For yarns used in the production of felted fabrics from coarser wool, short twisted regions can be formed between longer untwist regions to promote entanglement of fibers in the untwist regions of the yarn forming the fabric with each other during the felting process.

[0116] This provides a method for producing high-value products with superior properties compared to existing products using inexpensive coarse wool fibers. Surprisingly, these high-value yarns, fabrics, and garments can be based on inexpensive coarse wool fibers, which are typically considered only suitable for low-end applications such as carpet manufacturing.

[0117] By replacing synthetic fabrics with coarse wool fabrics, the wool content in clothing can be increased (for example, socks containing 75% wool). The resulting fabrics can contain at least 50%, 60%, or 80% wool. In some applications, fabrics made of 100% wool or 100% natural fibers can be produced.

[0118] Longer coarse wool fibers run better and faster in machines, thus improving efficiency and reducing equipment and manufacturing costs.

[0119] The resulting product has a good appearance with less pilling due to having significantly fewer short fibers. Fabrics produced using coarse wool yarn were evaluated as having a pilling grade of 4 (slight pilling), while those with shorter fibers had a pilling grade of 3 (significant pilling).

[0120] Although the invention has been described by way of description of embodiments thereof, and although the embodiments have been described in detail, the applicant does not intend to limit the scope of the appended claims or restrict them in any way to such details. Furthermore, the above-described embodiments may be implemented individually or in combination where compatible. Other advantages and modifications, including combinations of the above-described embodiments, will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Therefore, the invention, in its broader aspects, is not limited to the specific details, representative devices and methods, and illustrative examples shown and described. Thus, deviations from such details may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the applicant's overall inventive concept.

Claims

1. A spun or semi-spun yarn having a linear density of less than 80 tex and comprising two or more yarn strands, each yarn strand comprising an outer material twisted with a continuous or substantially continuous core, the yarn strands being self-twisted to each other, the outer material comprising coarse wool fibres, wherein, The coarse wool fibers have an average fiber diameter greater than 26 micrometers, and the coarse wool fibers in the wool sliver have an average fiber length of 100 mmH or greater.

2. The yarn according to claim 1 is a worsted yarn.

3. The yarn of claim 1 or 2, wherein, The two or more yarn strands have twisted regions in the z direction that alternate with twisted regions in the s direction, and have untwisted regions between each twisted region.

4. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, The continuous or substantially continuous core constitutes at least 15% of the yarn by weight.

5. A worsted or semi-worsted yarn, said yarn being formed of two or more self-twisted strands, each strand comprising: At least 15% by weight of continuous or substantially continuous core; as well as The outer material twisted with the core comprises coarse wool fibers, wherein the coarse wool fibers have an average fiber diameter greater than 26 micrometers and the coarse wool fibers in the sliver have an average fiber length of 100 mmH or greater.

6. The yarn of claim 5, comprising 15% to 50% by weight of the continuous or substantially continuous core.

7. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6, having a linear density of less than 60 tex.

8. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7, having a linear density in the range of 25 tex to 60 tex.

9. The yarn of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein, The coarse wool fibers have an average fiber diameter greater than 30 micrometers.

10. The yarn of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein, The coarse wool fibers have an average fiber diameter greater than 33 micrometers.

11. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein, The coarse wool fibers have an average fiber diameter greater than 36 micrometers.

12. The yarn of claim 9, wherein, The coarse wool fibers have an average fiber diameter in the range of 30 to 40 micrometers.

13. The yarn of claim 12, wherein, The coarse wool fibers have an average fiber diameter in the range of 36 micrometers to 38 micrometers.

14. The yarn of any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein, The coarse wool fibers in the wool top have an average fiber length of 110 mmH or greater.

15. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein, The coarse wool fibers in the wool top have an average fiber length in the range of 100 mmH to 130 mmH.

16. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein, The outer material comprises at least 10% coarse wool by weight.

17. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein, The outer material comprises at least 20% coarse wool by weight.

18. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein, The outer material comprises at least 30% coarse wool by weight.

19. The yarn of any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein, The continuous or substantially continuous core comprises at least one synthetic filament.

20. The yarn of claim 19, wherein, The synthetic filament has a linear density in the range of 10 denier to 80 denier.

21. The yarn of claim 19 or 20, wherein, The at least one synthetic filament is a nylon filament.

22. The yarn of claim 19 or 20, wherein, The at least one synthetic filament is a polyester filament.

23. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein, The continuous or substantially continuous core comprises at least one filament or thread formed from natural fibers.

24. The yarn of claim 23, wherein, The line has a line density in the range of 10 tex to 20 tex.

25. The yarn according to claim 23 or 24 is formed from 100% natural fibers.

26. A fabric comprising the yarn as described in any one of claims 1 to 25.

27. A garment comprising the fabric according to claim 26.

28. A method for producing worsted or semi-worsted yarn having a linear density of less than 80 tex, comprising: Forming two or more twisted yarn strands, each twisted yarn strand being formed by passing a coarse wool sliver and a continuous or substantially continuous core through a reciprocating twisting table, said twisting table comprising a pair of twisting rollers adapted to rotate about and reciprocate along said rotation axis, each twisted yarn strand having a twisting region separated by an untwisted region; and The twisted yarn strands are combined together by self-twisting to form the yarn. Each coarse wool strip comprises coarse wool fibers with an average fiber diameter greater than 26 micrometers and the coarse wool fibers in the strip have an average fiber length of 100 mmH or greater.

29. The method of claim 28, wherein, The coarse wool tops are produced using worsted and / or semi-worsted spinning processes, which include one or more of brushing, combing, combing, and superwashing.

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