A method for shaping the inner sleeve of a suit

Abstract

This invention discloses a method for shaping an inward-turned sleeve for a suit, characterized by the following steps: S1 acquiring and recording anthropometric data; S2 calculating the amount of increase for the inward-turned sleeve based on the acquired anthropometric data; S3 determining the basic pattern based on the calculated amount of increase and the anthropometric data, and modifying the pattern using drafting software; S31 The pattern modification method includes: starting from the end point of the front seam of the cuff, shifting the large cuff line to the left by e and the small cuff line to the right by b, so that the sleeve indentation point of the front sleeve seam aligns with the end point of the front seam of the cuff; shifting the end point of the back sleeve cap of the large sleeve to the right by h and the end point of the back sleeve cap of the small sleeve to the left by k, so that the back sleeve cap seam wraps from the cuff to the elbow and then wraps inward towards the small sleeve, highlighting the elbow curve effect of the back sleeve line, conforming to the shape of the human elbow. The operation is convenient and efficient; the entire pattern generation process takes less than 1 minute, far less than the 60 minutes required for traditional manual operation.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of clothing technology, specifically a method for shaping the inner sleeve of a suit jacket. Background Technology

[0002] Clothing structural design is a discipline combining aesthetics and engineering. Whether considering the aesthetics or comfort of clothing, sleeves are an indispensable component, and their structural design is of paramount importance.

[0003] The ever-changing sleeve styles play a significant role in the innovation and development of clothing. Sleeves, in addition to enhancing and enriching the overall design of garments, also contribute to their aesthetic appeal. As an integral part of a garment's form, sleeves are typically cylindrical and connect to the armhole of the bodice to create a complete garment shape. From a design perspective, different garment styles and functions result in sleeves with varying structures and forms.

[0004] Sleeves are not merely a component of clothing; they play a significant role in the wearer's overall demeanor, conveying their attitudes and emotions. The shape of the sleeves also directly influences body movement; the openness, length, and length of the sleeves are all designed according to specific needs. Furthermore, due to differences in gender, age, occupation, season, and aesthetic perspectives, people's choices and preferences regarding various sleeve styles will differ.

[0005] Based on the principles of ergonomics, when the human arm naturally bends slightly forward and hangs down, the angle of the arm tilting forward is 6.18°. Traditionally, sleeve designs are made by hand from measurement to final completion, which is time-consuming. Summary of the Invention

[0006] To overcome the shortcomings of existing technologies, this invention provides a technical solution that transforms theoretical sleeve shapes into specific forms, incorporating elements of arm structure, function, form, and aesthetics into the pattern design. This solution primarily targets the shaping method of inward-turning sleeves for men's and women's suits.

[0007] Based on the principles of ergonomics, when a human arm naturally bends forward and hangs down, the angle between the arm and the body is 6.18°. Drawing on this theory, when processing patterns, it's crucial to analyze the overall angle and the interrelationships between different parts, as well as to comprehensively consider human anatomy, body shape, and sewing techniques. By focusing on the essential aspects and improving garment quality, a perfect balance between the sleeve's appearance and comfort during movement can be achieved. By transferring the elbow dart and merging the front seam of a fitted one-piece sleeve, a structural relationship of two dividing lines is created. The complementary size of these lines results in a two-piece fitted sleeve structure that better conforms to the arm's natural curve and is more aesthetically pleasing than a single fitted sleeve.

[0008] This invention, through comparative research and analysis of men's and women's suit sleeve types, obtains structural data and parameters for inward-turning sleeves, thus shaping the construction, angle, curvature, and openness of the inward-turning sleeve. Based on the length difference between the front and back sleeve seams, the curvature of the front sleeve seam of the large sleeve piece is increased. Combining this with the fabric properties, a reshaping process is used to restore the length difference between the front and back sleeve seams, thereby generating mechanical torque on the front and back sleeve seams.

[0009] The technical solution adopted by this invention to solve the above-mentioned technical problem is a method for shaping an inner-turn sleeve of a suit, comprising the following steps:

[0010] S1 acquires and records human body measurement data, denoting the cuff width as CW and the chest circumference as B;

[0011] S2 calculates the increase in the internal rotation sleeve based on the acquired anthropometric data;

[0012] S3 determines the basic pattern based on the calculated increase amount and human body measurement data, and then uses graphic design software to make pattern changes.

[0013] The method of changing the S31 pattern includes: taking the end point of the front seam of the cuff as the starting point, shifting the large cuff line to the left by e along the line and the small cuff line to the right by b along the line, so that the cuff indentation of the front sleeve seam is aligned with the end point of the front seam of the cuff.

[0014] Move the back cap of the large sleeve to the right by h, and the back cap of the small sleeve to the left by k, so that the back sleeve cap seam wraps from the cuff to the elbow and then into the small sleeve, highlighting the elbow curve and conforming to the shape of the human elbow.

[0015] Furthermore, in step S2, the increase in the inward sleeve size includes the large sleeve cuff and the small sleeve cuff, respectively...

[0016] Men's oversized sleeve cuff = B ÷ 10 + 2.7 + 2 inward rotation 5° (constant) + sleeve offset measurement;

[0017] Women's oversized sleeve cuff = B ÷ 10 + 2.9 + 1 inward twist 2.5° (constant) + sleeve offset allowance;

[0018] Men's small sleeve cuff = B÷10+2.7-2 internal rotation 5° (fixed number) - partial sleeve amount;

[0019] Women's small sleeve cuff = B÷10+2.9-1 internal rotation 2.5° (fixed number) - partial sleeve amount.

[0020] Furthermore, in step S3, the basic bust measurement for the basic pattern is 108cm for men and 96cm for women.

[0021] Furthermore, in step S31, b is 1-2cm, c is 1-2cm, d is 1-2cm, and e is 1-2cm.

[0022] Furthermore, the sleeve offset is 2.5-3cm.

[0023] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages:

[0024] By calculating the amount of inward sleeve adjustment in a standard garment, the corresponding changes in other parts are determined; this refers to the sleeve curvature of the standard garment. Furthermore, the pattern changes are performed using garment CAD software, making the process convenient and efficient. The entire pattern generation process takes less than one minute, far less than the 60 minutes required for traditional manual operations. This invention quickly and effectively solves the problem of changing the shape of inward sleeves for men and women, possessing high practical value and improving the comfort and fit of clothing. Attached Figure Description

[0025] Figure 1 This is a diagram illustrating the research findings on the inward-turned sleeve design of men's suits, Example 1.

[0026] Figure 2 This is a diagram illustrating the research findings on the inward-turned sleeve design of the women's suit jacket, Example 2.

[0027] In the diagram: 1. Amount of opening at the front of the large sleeve seam; 2. Amount of closing at the back of the large sleeve seam; 3. Point of concave seam at the front of the large sleeve seam; 4. Point of concave seam at the front of the small sleeve seam; A. End point of the back cuff of the large sleeve; B. End point of the inward twist at the front cuff of the small sleeve; C. End point of the front cuff of the small sleeve; D. End point of the front cuff of the large sleeve; E. End point of the inward twist at the front cuff of the large sleeve; F. End point of the back sleeve cap of the small sleeve; K. End point of the off-center sleeve cap of the small sleeve; G. End point of the back sleeve cap of the large sleeve; H. End point of the off-center sleeve cap of the large sleeve; M. Point of drop in the back sleeve cap of the large sleeve; N. Point of drop in the back sleeve cap of the small sleeve. Detailed Implementation

[0028] The invention will now be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0029] Example 1

[0030] like Figure 1 As shown, a method for shaping the inner sleeve of a men's suit is described, taking a standard men's finished chest circumference of 108CM as an example.

[0031] (1) Obtain the anthropometric data of the standard body, and denote the cuff width as CW and the chest circumference as B. Wherein, B = 108CM, CW = B / 10 + 2.7 = 13.5CM. The cuff width CW is half of the cuff circumference. The cuff size is denoteed as the diameter, and the cuff circumference is the radius of the circumference. The cuff deviation is set at 2.5CM.

[0032] (2) Calculate the inward rotation sleeve addition amount for the standard body, where the cuff of the large sleeve piece = B / 10 + 2.7 + 2 inward rotation 5° (constant) + 2.5 = 18;

[0033] Small sleeve cuff=B / 10+2.7-2 internal rotation 5° (fixed number)-2.5=9;

[0034] The fixed number refers to the standard body. Generally, the number of internal rotation sleeves for men is determined by 5°. The internal rotation sleeve for women is less forceful than that for men.

[0035] (3) Determine the basic pattern based on the anthropometric data of the standard body, and then make pattern variations based on the basic pattern using clothing CAD software:

[0036] Starting from the end point of the front cuff seam, move the end point D of the large cuff to the left 2 cm along the line to the end point E of the inward twist of the large cuff seam, and move the end point C of the small cuff to the right 2 cm along the line to the end point B of the inward twist of the small cuff seam. This will make the concave line of the front cuff seam of the large cuff follow the direction to the end point E of the inward twist of the large cuff seam, and make the concave line of the front cuff seam of the small cuff follow the direction to the end point B of the inward twist of the small cuff seam. This change will allow the cuff size to change with the change of the chest circumference.

[0037] Move the end point G of the large sleeve cap 2cm to the right of the end point H of the large sleeve cap, and move the end point F of the small sleeve cap 2cm to the left of the end point K of the small sleeve cap. This ensures the seam of the end point H of the large sleeve cap extends smoothly to the elbow and wraps inwards towards the small sleeve, while the seam of the end point K of the small sleeve cap extends smoothly to the elbow. This emphasizes the elbow curve of the small sleeve, conforming to the natural shape of the elbow. The end point K of the small sleeve cap has an inward rotation effect, while the end point H of the large sleeve cap has an outward rotation effect. End points M and N are the points where the large and small sleeve caps differ in height, also contributing to the inward rotation.

[0038] Example 2

[0039] Combination Figure 2 A method for shaping the inner sleeve of a women's suit, taking a standard woman's finished bust circumference of 96CM as an example.

[0040] (1) Obtain the anthropometric data of the standard body, and denote the cuff width as CW and the chest circumference as B. Wherein, B = 96CM, CW = B / 10 + 2.9 = 12.5CM (half of the circumference), and the cuff deviation is set at 3CM;

[0041] (2) Calculate the inward rotation sleeve allowance for the standard body, where the cuff of the large sleeve for women = B / 10 + 2.9 + 1 inward rotation 2.5° (constant) + 3 = 16.5; the cuff of the small sleeve for women = B / 10 + 2.9 - 1 inward rotation 2.5° (constant) - 3 = 8.5;

[0042] (3) Determine the basic pattern based on the anthropometric data of the standard body, and then make pattern variations based on the basic pattern using clothing CAD software:

[0043] Starting from the front cuff seam endpoint, move the large cuff line 1 cm to the left and the small cuff line 1 cm to the right, so that the elbow point of the front cuff seam is aligned with the front cuff seam point. This change allows the cuff size to change with the chest circumference.

[0044] Move the back cap of the large sleeve 1cm to the right along the line, and move the back cap of the small sleeve 1cm to the left along the line, so that the back sleeve cap seam wraps from the cuff to the elbow and then wraps into the small sleeve, highlighting the elbow curve of the back sleeve line, which conforms to the shape of the human elbow.

[0045] The technical solution disclosed in this invention generates mechanical torsion through changes in sleeve structure to create an inward rotation effect. It serves as a reference for the research on inward rotation sleeves of suits in conjunction with European and American fashion trends and styles. It uses three-dimensional cutting and 3D virtual simulation technology to verify the garment effect and conducts research on the shaping, angle, curvature, and openness of inward rotation sleeves for men's and women's suits.

[0046] The length difference between the front and back sleeve seams of the two sleeve pieces was analyzed. The curvature of the front sleeve seam of the large sleeve piece was increased. Combined with the properties of the fabric, the length difference between the front and back sleeve seams was restored using a shaping process. The inward-turning sleeve shape effect was achieved during ironing. This pattern-making process changed the traditional suit sleeves and constantly transformed and innovated, catering to modern people's needs for fit and aesthetics in clothing.

Claims

1. A method for shaping an inward-turned sleeve on a suit jacket, characterized in that... Includes the following steps: S1 acquires and records human body measurement data, denoting the cuff width as CW and the chest circumference as B; S2 calculates the increase in the internal rotation sleeve based on the acquired anthropometric data; Based on the bust measurement (B) and sleeve offset measurement, calculate the allowance for the large sleeve cuff and small sleeve cuff using the following formula: Men's oversized sleeve cuff = B÷10 + 2.7 + 2 inward twist 5° + sleeve offset 2.5cm; Women's oversized sleeve cuff = B ÷ 10 + 2.9 + 1 inward twist 2.5° + sleeve offset 3cm; Men's short sleeve cuff = B÷10+2.7-2 inward rotation 5°-offset sleeve allowance 2.5cm; Women's short sleeve cuff = B÷10+2.9-1 inward twist 2.5°-sleeve offset 3cm; S3 determines the basic pattern based on the calculated increase amount and combined with human body measurement data. The basic pattern has a chest circumference base of 108cm for men and 96cm for women. And the layout was changed using graphic design software; The methods for changing the S31 layout include: Front cuff adjustment: Starting from the front cuff seam endpoint, move the front cuff endpoint D of the large cuff along the line to the inward twist endpoint E of the large sleeve cuff 2CM to the left, and move the front cuff endpoint C of the small sleeve along the line to the inward twist endpoint B of the small sleeve cuff 2CM to the right, so that the sleeve concave line point of the front cuff seam of the large sleeve is aligned with the inward twist endpoint E of the large sleeve cuff, and the sleeve concave line point of the front cuff seam of the small sleeve is aligned with the inward twist endpoint B of the small sleeve cuff; or starting from the front cuff seam endpoint, move the large cuff line 1CM to the left along the line, and move the small cuff line 1CM to the right along the line, so that the elbow point of the front cuff seam is aligned with the front cuff seam point; Back sleeve cap adjustment: Move the end point G of the back sleeve cap of the large sleeve 2cm to the right along the line to the end point H of the back sleeve cap of the large sleeve. Move the end point F of the back sleeve cap of the small sleeve 2cm to the left along the line to the end point K of the back sleeve cap of the small sleeve. Make the seam of the end point H of the back sleeve cap of the large sleeve go smoothly to the elbow and wrap into the small sleeve. Make the seam of the end point K of the back sleeve cap of the small sleeve go smoothly to the elbow. Alternatively, move the end point of the back sleeve cap of the large sleeve 1cm to the right along the line and move the end point of the back sleeve cap of the small sleeve 1cm to the left along the line. Make the seam of the back sleeve cap go smoothly from the cuff to the elbow and wrap into the small sleeve.

2. The method for shaping an inner-turned sleeve of a suit according to claim 1, characterized in that... The sleeve offset is 2.5-3cm.

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