Method of weaving a cutwork fabric

Abstract

The application discloses a cutting and weaving method of a cut-and-shear fabric and belongs to the technical field of cut-and-shear weaving process technology. The cut-and-shear fabric has a large environmental burden, can seriously affect the fabric gram weight and reduce the thickness and weight feeling, and can increase the complexity of warp and weft yarn interweaving and production cost in order to meet the requirements of beauty and fabric fastness. The application comprises the following steps: 1) weaving: the fabric comprises a cut-and-shear area and a float area, the cut-and-shear area and the float area each comprise ground weft and cut-and-shear weft; the cut-and-shear area and the float area form a diamond-shaped arrangement which is staggered in the warp and weft directions, and the two sides of the pattern are fixed by using plain weave; 2) cutting and shearing: the float weft is cut and sheared at a single point between the floats; wherein the float weft in the step 1) is made of high-shrinkage polyamide, polyester or polypropylene. By using the shrinkage characteristics of the high-shrinkage yarn, after the float weft is cut and sheared, the weft yarn shrinks towards the edge of the pattern, a velvet decorative silk fringe is formed around the pattern, the velvet decorative silk fringe is more resistant to scratching, the process is simpler and there is no waste.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] A method for weaving cut-out fabrics, belonging to the field of cut-out weaving technology. Background Technology

[0002] Cut-out fabric is a three-dimensional jacquard technique that involves removing a portion of the weft or warp yarns from a shaped fabric. Specifically, the cut-out process generally involves removing excess float along the edge of the jacquard or patterned area to highlight the jacquard area, thereby creating a three-dimensional, multi-layered fabric surface effect.

[0003] In existing technologies, cut-out fabrics generally require the removal of excess yarn. The cut-out threads need to be processed before removal, which increases environmental burden and significantly affects the fabric weight, reducing its perceived thickness. To balance aesthetics and fabric durability, cut-out processes typically increase the complexity of warp and weft yarn interlacing, requiring the use of large jacquard looms and increasing production costs. Furthermore, the reduced remaining length of the weft yarns after cut-out processes shortens the area where the weft yarns are fixed by the warp yarns on the fabric surface. This effectively reduces the weft yarn's fixing strength, making it more prone to snagging, shortening the fabric's lifespan, and decreasing its resistance to snagging and abrasion. Therefore, this significantly limits the application scope of cut-out processes. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a method for weaving cut-out fabrics that does not produce shedding tassels, has a simple operation process, and is resistant to snagging and abrasion.

[0005] The technical solution adopted by this invention to solve its technical problem is: a method for weaving cut-pattern fabrics, characterized by including the following steps:

[0006] 1) Weaving: The fabric includes a patterned area and a float area. Both the patterned area and the float area include two types of weft yarns: ground weft and patterned weft. The patterned weft yarns include floated weft yarns of two or more lengths formed in the float area. The patterned area and the float area form a diamond arrangement with both warp and weft directions staggered. The two sides of the pattern are fixed with plain weave.

[0007] 2) Cutting: The floating weft yarns are cut at a single point between the floating weft yarns. One type of patterned weft yarn floating weft yarn is shortened by cutting at a single point to form different layers;

[0008] In step 1), the floating long weft yarn is made of high-shrinkage nylon, polyester or polypropylene.

[0009] This process uses high-shrinkage yarn as the floating long weft yarn and cuts it at a single point to produce cut-out fabric instead of cutting it completely. By utilizing the shrinkage characteristics of high-shrinkage yarn, after the floating long weft yarn is cut, the weft yarn shrinks towards the edge of the pattern, forming a velvety decorative tassel around the pattern.

[0010] This invention specifies the three high-shrinkage yarns mentioned above because experiments revealed their wrinkling and shrinkage characteristics: the shrinkage of these three yarns occurs through bending and folding, while the shrinkage of yarns like spandex is linear, resulting in shortening and thickening. This structural shrinkage through wrinkling and folding allows the floating weft yarns to form a denser, thicker, plush decorative tassel at the edge of the pattern, resulting in a stronger sense of fluffiness, curl, and layering. In contrast, the linear shrinkage of spandex-type yarns only forms dense thread ends at the edge of the pattern, leading to excessive separation between the yarns. Furthermore, the curling and shrinking allows the weft yarn ends to be better secured by the warp yarns, making them less prone to snagging and abrasion. The remaining weft yarn is more firmly interlocked with the warp yarns, significantly extending the lifespan and abrasion resistance of the cut fabric. Thanks to the superior plush effect of the selected weft yarns, a sense of layering is more easily achieved. Therefore, simpler patterns and weave structures can still achieve a good sense of layering, greatly simplifying the manufacturing process. Since no yarn is cut off during the entire process and no tassels fall off, it is more environmentally friendly and reduces waste disposal costs.

[0011] Preferably, the ground weft yarn is made of pure cotton or polyester-cotton double-ply short fiber yarn.

[0012] Short fiber yarns have high surface friction, which enhances their grip on long floating weft yarns, thus increasing fabric strength under otherwise identical conditions.

[0013] Preferably, the float length weft yarn specification is 100~300D.

[0014] Preferably, the fabric pattern area adopts a triple weft structure, consisting of three types of weft yarns: A, B, and C. Weft yarn A is interwoven with the warp yarn to form the ground; weft yarns B and C are interwoven with the warp yarn to form a double weft pattern, creating floats of different lengths in the float area.

[0015] Further optimization involves using two different colors for both the bismuth and bismuth weft.

[0016] One color of weft yarn is broken at a single point (the red dot in the previous weave diagram) to shorten its float length, allowing the two colors of weft yarn to form float lengths of different lengths. The ground weft yarn and warp yarn are locally fixed at a single point to cut off the float length, forming different layers of tassels.

[0017] More preferably, the double-weft pattern consists of weft yarns B and C interwoven with warp yarns to form a weave with the same repeat and number of fly yarns but different float lengths. Twill weave provides better fixation for the float length weft yarns, improving their stability.

[0018] More preferably, the buoyancy region is formed by single-point consolidation to create buoyancy of different lengths from 8mm to 15mm.

[0019] More preferably, the float length of the bismuth line in the pattern-forming region is less than that of the bismuth line in the pattern-forming region.

[0020] The formation of a stepped layered structure makes it easier to show a sense of layering. Combined with the shrinkage properties of the aforementioned limited weft yarns, it can effectively improve the feel of the pile. It can ensure that the triple weft structure can achieve the effect of a multi-layered structure, and the same effect is achieved with lower process difficulty.

[0021] More preferably, the flower-shaped edge adopts a flattened structure.

[0022] The design employs a combination of two heddles with a double-layered, openwork pattern, and reinforces the cut yarn. The double-layered structure can also serve as a selvage structure.

[0023] In a further preferred embodiment, the pattern weaving uses 16 heddles. Within a limited number of heddles, the weave of each area is cleverly combined. The pattern areas are arranged in a diamond shape, but the binding weave and the edge weave share 2 heddles (1 and 2 heddles). Each float area uses 1 heddle (15 and 16 heddles) to divide the float into different layers, providing more options for enriching the pattern structure. The specific stitching sequence is as follows: selvage (1, 2) * 10, body stitches 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 1, 2, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 1, 2, cycling according to the width.

[0024] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of this invention are: this process uses high shrinkage yarn as floating long weft yarn and cuts it at a single point to make cut-out fabric instead of cutting it completely. By utilizing the shrinkage characteristics of high shrinkage yarn, after the floating long weft yarn is cut, the weft yarn shrinks towards the edge of the pattern, forming a velvety decorative tassel around the pattern.

[0025] This invention specifies the three high-shrinkage yarns mentioned above because experiments revealed their wrinkling and shrinkage characteristics: the shrinkage of these three yarns occurs through bending and folding, while the shrinkage of yarns like spandex is linear, resulting in shortening and thickening. This structural shrinkage through wrinkling and folding allows the floating weft yarns to form a denser, thicker, plush decorative tassel at the edge of the pattern, resulting in a stronger sense of fluffiness, curl, and layering. In contrast, the linear shrinkage of spandex-type yarns only forms dense thread ends at the edge of the pattern, leading to excessive separation between the yarns. Furthermore, the curling and shrinking allows the weft yarn ends to be better secured by the warp yarns, making them less prone to snagging and abrasion. The remaining weft yarn is more firmly interlocked with the warp yarns, significantly extending the lifespan and abrasion resistance of the cut fabric. Thanks to the superior plush effect of the selected weft yarns, a sense of layering is more easily achieved. Therefore, simpler patterns and weave structures can still achieve a good sense of layering, greatly simplifying the manufacturing process. Since no yarn is cut off during the entire process and no tassels fall off, it is more environmentally friendly and reduces waste disposal costs. Attached Figure Description

[0026] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of a single-point cut of the cross-section of the cut fabric obtained in Example 1.

[0027] Figure 2 The image shows the color pattern of the floating elongated area in Example 1, where a is the tissue diagram of the flower shape and b is the color pattern of the flower area.

[0028] Among them, 1. Latitude C; 2. Latitude B; 3. Ground; 4. Cutting point; 5. Flower pattern part. Detailed Implementation

[0029] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the embodiments, which are the preferred embodiments of the present invention.

[0030] Example 1

[0031] See attached document Figures 1-2 A method for weaving cut-out fabrics, comprising the following steps:

[0032] 1) Weaving: The fabric is woven according to the design. The fabric is divided into a patterned area and a float area. Each area has two types of weft yarns: ground weft and patterned weft. The two areas form a diamond arrangement with both warp and weft directions staggered. The two sides of the pattern are secured with plain weave. The patterned area is... Figure 1 The pattern section 5 in the fabric has a floating area between the pattern sections 5. The floating area of ​​the fabric adopts a triple weft structure. The triple weft structure is made of three types of weft yarns, namely A, B, and C, interwoven with the warp yarns. C weft 1 and B weft 2 are floating weft yarns. C weft 1 is a long floating length that spans the entire floating area, forming the top layer. B weft 2 has a shorter floating length, forming the middle layer. A weft yarn is interwoven with the warp yarns to form the bottom ground section 3.

[0033] 2) Cutting: Cut the long portion of the C-weft 1 and B-weft 2 at a single point in the middle (see attached diagram). Figure 1 ).

[0034] In step 1), 16 heddles are used for weaving. Each pattern section uses a 6-ply double-weft structure, plus 7 heddles for single-point cut floats. The pattern is arranged in a diamond pattern, with 2 heddles combined in the middle to separate the patterns and reinforce the cut yarns. This double-weft structure also serves as the selvage structure, using a total of 16 heddles. The heddle threading sequence is: selvage (1, 2) * 10, body 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 1, 2, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 9, 10 11, 12, 13, 14, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 1, 2, according to the width cycle.

[0035] Among them, weft A is made of pure cotton yarn, weft B2 and weft C1 are made of dark and light polyester respectively, and weft B2 and weft C1 are 200D thick; the float length of weft B2 in the pattern area is less than that of weft C1 in the pattern area; the pattern part 5 adopts a double flat structure.

[0036] The five color scheme patterns for the floral design are shown below. Figure 2 See the color scheme pattern of the floral area in section a. Figure 2 In the middle (b), the dark-colored weft dots represent weft 1 (C), the light-colored weft dots represent weft 1 (A), and the white weft dots represent warp yarns.

[0037] Example 2

[0038] A method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics, based on Example 1, wherein the weft 1 is set as 300D polyester high-shrinkage yarn, the weft 2 is set as polyester-cotton double-ply short fiber yarn, and other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0039] Example 3

[0040] A method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics, based on Example 1, wherein both weft 1 and weft 2 are set as high-shrinkage nylon yarns, and the thickness of both weft 1 and weft 2 is set to 300D, and other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0041] Example 4

[0042] A method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics, based on Example 1, adds one type of float weft yarn (T-weft), the pattern-starting area is arranged in a straight line, and the T-weft, C-weft, and B-weft form three different lengths of float yarn to form a four-layer weft structure, with other conditions being the same as in Example 1.

[0043] Example 5

[0044] A method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics, based on Example 1, wherein the thickness of weft 1 (C1) and weft 2 (B2) is both set to 100D, and other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0045] Example 6

[0046] A method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics, based on Example 1, wherein the thickness of weft 1 (C1) and weft 2 (B2) is both set to 600D, and other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0047] Comparative Example 1

[0048] A method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics, based on Example 1, wherein both weft yarn 1 and weft yarn 2 are set as spandex core-spun yarns, and the thickness of both weft yarn 1 and weft yarn 2 is set to 300D, and other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0049] Comparative Example 2

[0050] A method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics, based on Example 1, wherein both the propane weft 1 and the bismuth weft 2 are set as spandex core-spun yarns, the patterned area of ​​the fabric adopts a quadruple weft structure, the top layer structure repeats the propane weft structure of Example 1, and other conditions are the same as in Example 1.

[0051] Performance testing

[0052] The fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples were subjected to appearance and abrasion resistance tests.

[0053] The visual inspection involves quality inspectors observing the feel and texture of the fabric in the patterned area, classifying the fabric into four levels, with level one being the best in terms of feel and texture, representing the highest grade.

[0054] The abrasion resistance test was conducted by using a 250g weight hammer and 100-grit sandpaper to grind the patterned area 5. This process was repeated 20 times. The number of weft yarns pulled out in the patterned area was observed. If no weft yarns were pulled out, it was recorded as none. If a large number of weft yarns were pulled out, it was recorded as unqualified.

[0055] The performance test results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0056] Table 1 Performance Test Results

[0057] .

[0058] The above description is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the invention in any other way. Any person skilled in the art may make changes or modifications to the above-disclosed technical content to create equivalent embodiments. However, any simple modifications, equivalent changes, and modifications made to the above embodiments based on the technical essence of the present invention without departing from the scope of the present invention shall still fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for weaving cut-out fabrics, characterized in that: Includes the following steps: 1) Weaving: The fabric includes a patterned area and a float area. Both the patterned area and the float area include two types of weft yarns: ground weft and patterned weft. The patterned weft yarns include floated weft yarns of two or more lengths formed in the float area. The patterned area and the float area form a diamond arrangement with both warp and weft directions staggered. The two sides of the pattern are fixed with plain weave. 2) Cutting: The floating weft yarn is cut at a single point between the floating yarns; In step 1), the floating weft yarn is made of high-shrinkage nylon, polyester, or polypropylene. The denier of the floating weft yarn mentioned in step 1) is 100~300D; Step 1) The fabric pattern area adopts a triple weft structure, consisting of three types of weft yarns: A, B, and C. Weft yarn A is interwoven with the warp yarn to form the ground; weft yarns B and C are interwoven with the warp yarn to form a double weft pattern, creating floats of different lengths in the float area.

2. The method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that: Step 1) The ground weft yarn is made of pure cotton or polyester-cotton double-ply short fiber yarn.

3. The method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that: The aforementioned double-weft pattern is a weft pattern in which the B and C wefts are interwoven with the warp yarns to form a weave with the same weave cycle and the same number of flybacks but different float lengths.

4. The method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that: The aforementioned buoyancy region is formed by single-point consolidation to create buoyancy of different lengths from 8mm to 15mm.

5. The method for weaving cut-patterned fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pattern weaving uses 16 heddles, and the heddle sequence is: selvage (1, 2) * 10, body 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 1, 2, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 1, 2, repeating according to the width.

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