Temperature stable mineral oil-free water-in-oil emulsions

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) comprising a) polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate and b) hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: hydrogenated castor oil), wherein the formulation is free of mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax and polyethylene wax, free of polyacrylate, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer, and free of 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxy-cinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI: octinoxate), 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid ethylhexyl ester (INCI: octocrylene), parahydroxybenzoic acid esters (in particular methyl, propyl and butyl parahydroxybenzoate), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) for cosmetics, containing polyglycerol-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sepiacetate, and hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: hydrogenated castor oil). The formulation is free of mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax, and polyethylene wax; free of polyacrylate, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, and vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymers; and free of 3-(4-methyl) (Benzyl)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate), 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate ethylhexyl ester (INCI: octocrylene), parabens (especially methylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM ​​hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters. Background Technology

[0002] The desire to look beautiful and charming is innate in humans. Although aesthetic standards may change over time, the pursuit of a perfect appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin play a significant role in achieving a beautiful and charming look.

[0003] Therefore, regular cleansing and care are necessary for the skin to function properly. Skincare products, typically moisturizers, ointments, or lotions, are primarily used to hydrate and replenish the skin's lipids. They usually contain active ingredients that revitalize the skin and, for example, prevent or reduce premature aging (such as the formation of fine lines and wrinkles).

[0004] Beyond cleansing and caring for the skin, cosmetics also serve an aesthetic function. They are meant to "improve" the user's outward appearance according to their respective cultural values. Therefore, cosmetics fulfill a psychosocial function by enhancing the user's (sensory) attractiveness. The most important element in this field is "decorative" cosmetics, which alter the user's image through pigments applied to the skin. However, cleansing and care products also have an indirect positive impact, as clean, healthy skin aligns with human aesthetic standards.

[0005] Recently, the trend of "natural" cosmetics has gained increasing prominence, with ingredients no longer derived from petroleum products or chemically synthesized. This trend now overlaps with the trend of "vegan" products. Furthermore, finding alternative ingredients that meet these criteria presents unique challenges for product developers. This is because replacing known ingredients such as mineral oil, silicone oil, and polyacrylates almost always comes at the cost of compromised product performance. Formulations become unstable and sensorily unappealing; for example, when the formulation is dispersed on the skin and lacks penetration, it can cause noticeable discomfort. These problems are particularly pronounced in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, which have recently become increasingly popular again. For example, W / O emulsions that do not contain mineral oil and mineral wax and do not contain polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters (so-called PEG derivatives) tend to become more unstable. Under longer shelf lives, especially at higher temperatures, W / O emulsions quickly undergo phase separation in the form of oil and / or water separation, which is not easily compensated for by higher emulsifier content. Summary of the Invention

[0006] Therefore, the objective of this invention is to develop a W / O emulsion that is free of mineral oil and mineral wax, and free of polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters, which is stable even at higher temperatures and does not exhibit (or significantly reduces) oil-water separation. Furthermore, the W / O emulsion should be applicable to a variety of oil-phase compositions, ensuring broad applicability of the formulation, and possess sensory appeal (non-greasy, non-sticky, and easily absorbed by the skin).

[0007] Surprisingly, this task was solved by a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (W / O emulsion) containing:

[0008] a) Polyglycerol-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and

[0009] b) Hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), wherein the formulation is free from mineral oil, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax and polyethylene wax, free from polyacrylate, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer, and free from 3-(4-methylbenzyl)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: Octyl methoxycinnamate), 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate ethylhexyl acrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), parabens (especially methylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM ​​hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ether or polyethylene glycol ester.

[0010] Although DE 102017221672 and DE 102018217130 are known to those skilled in the art, these documents do not indicate the direction of the present invention.

[0011] Herein, according to the present invention, the preferred formulation contains 0.3 to 1.0% by weight of hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: hydrogenated castor oil), based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0012] According to the present invention, an advantageous embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the formulation contains diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer linoleate.

[0013] Furthermore, according to the invention, the formulation contains 0.2 to 2.0% by weight of polyglycerol-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sepiacetate, based on the total weight of the formulation, wherein, according to the invention, the preferred concentration is 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0014] If the W / O emulsion according to the invention contains diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimerlinoleate, it is advantageous according to the invention that the formulation contains 0.2 to 2.0% by weight of diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimerlinoleate based on the total weight of the formulation. A concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight is particularly preferred.

[0015] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the context of this invention that the formulation contains one or more oils selected from triglyceride compounds. It is advantageous according to the invention that the concentration of these triglycerides (total triglycerides) used is 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.75 to 4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0016] According to the invention, the formulation preferably contains coconut oil ester (INCI: coconut oil-caprylate / capric acid ester). According to the invention, the advantageous concentration of coconut oil ester (INCI: coconut oil-caprylate / capric acid ester) is 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. Particularly preferred concentrations are in the range of 0.75 to 4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0017] Furthermore, according to the present invention, an advantageous embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the formulation contains one or more palmitate esters.

[0018] According to the present invention, the formulation contains cetyl palmitate and / or isopropyl palmitate.

[0019] If the formulation contains cetyl palmitate, it is advantageous according to the invention that these components are added at a concentration of 0.2 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. A particularly preferred concentration is 0.3 to 0.8% by weight.

[0020] If the formulation contains isopropyl palmitate, it is advantageous according to the invention that these components are added at a concentration of 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. Particularly preferred is 3 to 12% by weight.

[0021] Furthermore, according to the present invention, the formulation contains shea butter and / or sunflower seed wax (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera).

[0022] If the preparation contains shea butter, it is advantageous according to the invention that these components are added at a concentration of 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably at a concentration of 0.75 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0023] If the formulation contains sunflower seed wax (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera), it is advantageous according to the invention that these components are added at a concentration of 0.1 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably at a concentration of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0024] Furthermore, an advantageous embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the preparation contains one or more vegetable oils.

[0025] According to the present invention, the preparation preferably contains one or more oils selected from almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil) and / or sunflower seed oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil).

[0026] If the formulation contains almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), it is advantageous according to the invention that these ingredients are added at a concentration of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0027] If the formulation contains sunflower seed oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), it is advantageous according to the invention that these ingredients are added at a concentration of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0028] Furthermore, according to the invention, an advantageous embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the formulation contains magnesium sulfate. According to the invention, magnesium sulfate is preferably added at a concentration of 0.3 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably at a concentration of 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0029] According to the present invention, an advantageous embodiment of the present invention is further characterized in that the preparation contains potassium sorbate.

[0030] If the formulation contains potassium sorbate, it is advantageous according to the invention that these components are added at a concentration of 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.075 to 0.30% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0031] Furthermore, according to the present invention, an advantageous embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the preparation contains a mixture of citric acid and sodium citrate.

[0032] If the formulation contains citric acid, it is advantageous according to the invention that these components are added at a concentration of 0.05 to 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. These are then partially neutralized by adding NaOH, forming a citric acid / citrate buffer system.

[0033] According to the present invention, a combination of potassium sorbate and citric acid / sodium citrate is particularly preferred.

[0034] In addition, the W / O emulsion according to the present invention may contain other ingredients.

[0035] For example, other vegetable oils may be selected from compounds found in avocado oil, babassu seed oil, argan kernel oil, almond oil, jojoba seed oil, coconut oil, milk thistle seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive fruit oil, grape seed oil, olus oil, vegetable oil, cottonseed oil, burdock seed oil, macadamia seed oil, corn germ oil, sweet almond oil, castor seed oil, wild soybean oil, interspecific hybrid sunflower seed oil, sesame seed oil, and rapeseed oil.

[0036] The preparation may also contain one or more esters of caprylic acid and / or decanoic acid.

[0037] In this case, according to the present invention, the preferred esters of caprylic acid and / or decanoic acid are selected from caprylic acid triglyceride / decanoic acid triglyceride (INCI: caprylic acid / decanoic acid triglyceride), caprylyl caprylate / caprate (INCI: caprylyl caprylate / caprate), Coco glycerides (INCI: Coco glycerides), ethylhexyl cocoate (INCI: ethylhexylcoate), decyl cocoate (INCI: decyl Cocoate), isoamyl cocoate (INCI: isoamyl Cocoate), dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI: dicaprylyl carbonate), and coco-caprylate (INCI: coco-caprylate).

[0038] Advantageously, in the context of this invention, the formulation contains waxes and / or fatty alcohols. According to the invention, it is preferable to add waxes or fatty alcohols selected from the list of compounds below:

[0039] Cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, methyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, hydrogenated cocoyl glyceride, myristol, behenol, cocoa seed butter, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid triglycerides, hydrogenated vegetable oil, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, tristearate.

[0040] The formulation may also contain one or more lipophilic components selected from dioctyl ether, decyl oleate, octyldodecyl alcohol, squalane, triglyceride isostearate, ethyl shea butter, triheptanyl glyceride, hexyl decyl stearate, and isoamyl laurate.

[0041] According to the present invention, an advantageous embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that the formulation contains one or more compounds selected from α-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, α-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural isoflavones, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, β-alanine, tocopherol, panthenol, honokiol, and magnolol, glyceryl glucoside, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and / or glycyrrhizin chalcone A.

[0042] Of particular advantage according to the invention is that the W / O emulsion contains glycerin. Detailed Implementation

[0043] Comparative test

[0044] The following formulations were prepared and their stability was compared with each other.

[0045]

[0046] No differences were observed immediately after preparation.

[0047] The formulations were stored at 40°C. After 30 days of storage, slight oil separation was observed in formulation 2. This instability became more pronounced with further storage. No instability was observed in formulation 1 during storage.

[0048] Example

[0049] The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention and not to limit it. Unless otherwise stated, all amounts, proportions, and percentages are based on weight and total amount or on the total weight of the formulation.

[0050]

Claims

1. A cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion, wherein the emulsion contains, based on its total weight, the following: a) Polyglycerol-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacic acid ester at a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight. b) Hydrogenated castor oil at a concentration of 0.3 to 1.0% by weight, And, at a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer linoleate, wherein, The emulsion contains one or more of the following substances: oils selected from triglyceride compounds, vegetable oils, esters of caprylic and / or capric acids, palmitate esters, isopropyl stearate, and fatty alcohols. The emulsion contains magnesium sulfate at a concentration of 0.3 to 3.0% by weight, and The emulsion is free of mineral oil, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, shellac wax, and polyethylene wax; it is also free of polyacrylate, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer; and it is free of 3-(4-methylbenzyl)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, p-hydroxybenzoate, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, DMDM ​​hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ether, or polyethylene glycol ester.

2. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1, characterized in that, The emulsion contains caprylic / capric cocoyl alcohol ester.

3. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The emulsion contains cetyl palmitate and / or isopropyl palmitate.

4. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The emulsion contains sunflower seed wax.

5. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The emulsion contains almond oil and / or sunflower seed oil.

6. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The emulsion contains potassium sorbate.

7. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The emulsion contains a mixture of citric acid and sodium citrate.

8. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The emulsion does not contain methylparaben, propylparaben, or butylparaben.

9. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The emulsion contains shea butter.

10. The oil-in-water emulsion for cosmetics according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The emulsion contains wax.

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