A ceramide composition and its use in cosmetics

Abstract

The application discloses a ceramide composition and application thereof in cosmetics, and the ceramide composition comprises ceramide NS and ceramide NP with a mass ratio of 1-10:1. The ceramide composition can not only repair the keratin barrier, but also enter the active epidermis to be restructured, is hydrolyzed into ceramide precursors (sphingoid base, phosphoric acid and fatty acid), and is further synthesized into more subtypes of endogenous ceramides, so that the repair efficiency of the ceramide is effectively improved, and the repair effect is more excellent.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, and in particular to a ceramide composition and its application in cosmetics. Background Technology

[0002] Sensitive skin has a high incidence rate in countries around the world. Epidemiological studies show that the sensitivity rate among women in my country is approximately 36%. The Chinese sensitive skin care market is booming and has high development potential.

[0003] Keratinocytes and intercellular lipids together form the "brick wall structure" of the stratum corneum, constituting the body's first line of defense against external aggressors. Intercellular lipids are a lipid layer with a liquid crystal structure composed of ceramides (40-50%), fatty acids (20-30%), cholesterol (20-30%), etc. Ceramides are crucial to the performance of the skin barrier.

[0004] Ceramides are important lipids in the skin, but they are gradually lost with age. Unhealthy lifestyle habits, beauty treatments, and changes in the external environment can all decrease the ceramide content in the skin. Decreased ceramide levels are closely related to various skin diseases. Extensive clinical data has confirmed that exogenous ceramide supplementation can effectively alleviate skin problems.

[0005] Research has identified over 300 types of ceramides, with at least 11 subtypes found in the skin. However, currently available ceramide formulations primarily use single-type ceramides (NPs). For example, a high-ceramide composition, combined with high-quality moisturizing oils, has been disclosed to maintain skin softness and hydration. However, this composition supplements only one type of ceramide and its effects are not comprehensive. Furthermore, excessively high levels of ceramides may induce skin cell apoptosis.

[0006] In recent years, some brands have begun to incorporate multiple ceramides into their products to achieve moisturizing and barrier function repair. For example, a ceramide mixture disclosed in related technology consists of ceramide NP, ceramide NG, and ceramide AP in a mass ratio of 22.1:8-10:8-10. The resulting liposomes have the advantages of good salt tolerance and repair efficacy. Although the composition improves the subtypes of ceramides and effectively increases skin moisture content, its effect on increasing skin thickness is not significant. Summary of the Invention

[0007] This invention aims to at least solve one of the aforementioned technical problems existing in the prior art. To this end, this invention provides a combination of ceramides that not only repairs the stratum corneum barrier but also penetrates the active epidermis to undergo reconstruction, hydrolyzing into ceramide precursors (sphingoamine base, phosphate, and fatty acids), and further synthesizing more subtypes of endogenous ceramides, effectively improving the repair efficiency of ceramides and resulting in superior repair effects.

[0008] To achieve the above objectives, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is as follows:

[0009] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a ceramide composition comprising ceramide NS and ceramide NP in a mass ratio of 1 to 10:1.

[0010] In some embodiments of the present invention, the ceramide NS includes at least one of ceramide NS6, ceramide NS10, ceramide NS12, ceramide NS14, ceramide NS16, ceramide NS18, ceramide NS20, and ceramide NS22.

[0011] In some embodiments of the present invention, the ceramide NP includes at least one of ceramide NP6, ceramide NP10, ceramide NP12, ceramide NP14, ceramide NP16, ceramide NP18, ceramide NP20, and ceramide NP22.

[0012] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mass ratio of ceramide NS22 to ceramide NP22 is 10:1 to 1:1.

[0013] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mass ratio of ceramide NS22, ceramide NP6 and ceramide NP18 is 8:0.5:0.5 to 1:1:1.

[0014] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mass ratio of ceramide NS6, ceramide NS18, ceramide NS22, ceramide NP12 to ceramide NP18 is 3:3:3:0.5:0.5 to 1:1:1:1:1.

[0015] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mass ratio of ceramide NS22 to ceramide NP22 is 10:1 to 1:1.

[0016] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mass ratio of ceramide NS6 to ceramide NP6 is 10:1 to 1:1.

[0017] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mass ratio of ceramide NS18 to ceramide NP18 is 10:1 to 1:1.

[0018] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic comprising the aforementioned ceramide composition.

[0019] In some embodiments of the present invention, the amount of the ceramide composition used is 0.01-1% by cosmetic weight.

[0020] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0021] (1) In the composition of the present invention, ceramide has moisturizing effect and can replenish intercellular matrix, and has the effect of repairing skin barrier. The combination of ceramide NS and NP is more conducive to the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides and promotes the skin's self-cleaning function.

[0022] (2) Exogenous ceramides can be reconstituted in the active epidermis, where they are hydrolyzed into ceramide precursors (sphingoamine base, phosphate, and fatty acids), which can then be further synthesized into endogenous ceramides. This invention synergistically combines ceramides NS and NP, which can derive more subtypes of ceramide precursors, inducing the skin to synthesize a broader range of ceramide subtypes, thereby achieving more complete repair of the skin barrier.

[0023] (3) The present invention uses short-chain ceramides that can act on deeper skin layers, providing signal and cell communication functions, thereby enhancing skin thickness and promoting regeneration.

[0024] (4) The present invention rationally combines ceramides NS and NP with different chain lengths, which can not only induce the skin to synthesize more subtypes of ceramides and facilitate the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides in the skin, but also thicken the epidermis and achieve more perfect repair of the skin barrier. Detailed Implementation

[0025] The present invention will be further described in detail below through specific embodiments. Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials, reagents, or apparatus used in the embodiments and comparative examples are all available from conventional commercial sources or can be obtained by existing technical methods. Unless otherwise specified, the test or experimental methods are conventional methods in the art.

[0026] Example 1

[0027] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0028] Ceramide NS22 and ceramide NP22 in a mass ratio of 10:1.

[0029] Example 2

[0030] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0031] Ceramide NS22, ceramide NP6 and ceramide NP18 in a mass ratio of 8:0.5:0.5.

[0032] Example 3

[0033] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0034] Ceramides NS6, NS18, NS22, NP12, and NP18 were present in a mass ratio of 3:3:3:0.5:0.5.

[0035] Example 4

[0036] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0037] Ceramide NS22 and ceramide NP22 in a mass ratio of 1:1.

[0038] Example 5

[0039] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0040] Ceramide NS6 and ceramide NP6 in a mass ratio of 10:1.

[0041] Example 6

[0042] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0043] Ceramide NS18 and ceramide NP18 in a mass ratio of 10:1.

[0044] Comparative Example 1

[0045] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0046] Compared to Example 1, it does not contain ceramide NP22.

[0047] Comparative Example 2

[0048] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0049] Compared to Example 1, it does not contain ceramide NS22.

[0050] Comparative Example 3

[0051] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0052] Ceramides NP22, AP22, and EOP22 were present in a mass ratio of 22:1:2.

[0053] Comparative Example 4

[0054] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0055] Ceramides NP22, NH22, AH22, AS22, AP22, NS22, and EOP22 were present in a mass ratio of 22:15:10:10:8:8:1.

[0056] Comparative Example 5

[0057] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0058] Ceramide NS22 and ceramide AP22 in a mass ratio of 10:1.

[0059] Comparative Example 6

[0060] This embodiment provides a ceramide composition, specifically comprising the following raw materials:

[0061] Ceramide NP22 and ceramide EOP22 in a mass ratio of 10:1.

[0062] Application Example 1

[0063] A face cream, the formula of which is shown in Table 1.

[0064] Table 1. Face Cream Formula

[0065]

[0066] The method for preparing the face cream includes the following steps:

[0067] S1. Add component A to the aqueous phase pot and stir at 85-90℃ until completely dissolved;

[0068] S2. Add component B to the oil phase pot, stir at 85-90℃ until completely dissolved, slowly emulsify by oil extraction, homogenize at high speed for 15-30 minutes, and then cool down;

[0069] S3. Add the C phase component at 60-65℃, stir until evenly dispersed, cool to below 40℃, filter through a 200-mesh filter, and the product is obtained.

[0070] Application Example 2

[0071] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Example 2, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0072] Application Example 3

[0073] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Example 3, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0074] Application Example 4

[0075] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Example 4, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0076] Application Example 5

[0077] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Example 5, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0078] Application Example 6

[0079] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Example 6, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0080] Application Comparative Example 1

[0081] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Comparative Example 1, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0082] Application Comparative Example 2

[0083] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Comparative Example 2, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0084] Application Comparative Example 3

[0085] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Comparative Example 3, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0086] Application Comparative Example 4

[0087] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Comparative Example 4, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0088] Application Comparative Example 5

[0089] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Comparative Example 5, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0090] Application Comparative Example 6

[0091] Compared to Application Example 1, the ceramide composition of Example 1 in B was replaced with the ceramide composition of Comparative Example 6, and all other conditions were the same as in Application Example 1.

[0092] Tests on the promotion of autologous ceramide synthesis by exogenous ceramides:

[0093] Experimental principle: The experiment will examine the conversion of ceramide components of different compositions into ceramide precursors after being acted upon by the active epidermis, in order to investigate the action process of exogenous ceramides in the epidermis.

[0094] Experimental methods: Human primary keratinocytes (Life Technologies, Carlsbad, CA, USA) were subjected to 0.07 mM Ca2+. 2+ They were cultured in serum-free KC medium and further cultured to induce differentiation when the confluence reached 60-70%.

[0095] Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were dissolved in 95% ethanol aqueous solution and dissolved in an ultrasonic bath at 40°C for 30 minutes to make the sample concentration 20 mmol / L.

[0096] KC cells were first cultured for 8 days in DMEM and Ham's F-12 (2:1, v / v) medium with 250 μmol / L ceramide solution, followed by incubation for 2 days in DMEM medium with the same concentration of ceramide solution. Total lipids were extracted from the cells using the Bligh and Dyer methods. Fatty acids and sphingosine bases were quantitatively analyzed using LC-ESI-MS / MS.

[0097] The experimental results are shown in Tables 2 and 3.

[0098] Table 2. Sphingosine base content (unit: pmol / ml).

[0099]

[0100] Table 2 shows that the sphingosine bases hydrolyzed from ceramide NS can be converted into various types of ceramide precursors in the human body (sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, sphingosine-1-phosphate, dihydrosphingosine-1-phosphate, phytosphingosine, phytosphingosine-1-phosphate). However, the sphingosine bases hydrolyzed from ceramide NP are relatively singular and cannot be converted into more types of precursors (phytosphingosine, phytosphingosine-1-phosphate). Therefore, ceramide NS can be converted into more types of precursors, while ceramide NP can be converted into fewer types. Ceramide NS is more easily hydrolyzed into more dihydrosphingosine, while NP is more easily hydrolyzed into more phytosphingosine. A reasonable combination of the two can enrich the types of precursors converted, thus facilitating the synthesis of more endogenous ceramides.

[0101] Table 3. Fatty acid content (unit: pmol / ml).

[0102]

[0103]

[0104] As shown in Table 3, long-chain ceramides generate long-chain and medium-chain fatty acids but are less likely to generate short-chain fatty acids, while short-chain ceramides generate short-chain and medium-chain fatty acids but are less likely to generate long-chain fatty acids. The ceramide compositions of Examples 1-6 of this invention can generate short-chain, long-chain, and medium-chain fatty acids, providing the skin with a richer source of fatty acids.

[0105] Regulation of antimicrobial peptides by exogenous ceramides:

[0106] Experimental Principle: Antimicrobial peptide (LL-37) is a multifunctional peptide that not only possesses antimicrobial activity but also regulates cell motility and differentiation. By analyzing the regulation of antimicrobial peptide expression by exogenous ceramides of different compositions, the role of exogenous ceramides in epidermal self-cleaning and repair was investigated.

[0107] Experimental Methods: Following the same method as the assay for promoting autologous ceramide synthesis using exogenous ceramide, KC cells were cultured in a 250 μmol / L ceramide solution to investigate whether exogenous ceramide promoted cAMP production over time. cAMP mRNA levels were detected using qRT-PCR.

[0108] The experimental results are shown in Table 4.

[0109] Table 4. cAMP mRNA levels (unit: pmol / ml).

[0110]

[0111]

[0112] As shown in Table 4, both ceramides NS and NP can promote the production of antimicrobial peptides, with ceramide NS showing a slightly better promoting effect. However, the synergistic effect of the two is more significant. Among them, small molecule ceramides have a better promoting effect on the production of antimicrobial peptides, possibly because the smaller molecule of short-chain ceramide has a better penetration effect and a stronger role as a signaling factor.

[0113] Enhanced skin moisturizing effects of exogenous ceramides:

[0114] Experimental principle: Ceramides are key components of intercellular lipids, used to prevent excessive moisture loss from the skin. This experiment applies ceramides of different compositions to products to examine the effects of exogenous ceramides in repairing the epidermal barrier.

[0115] Experimental Methods: Sixty subjects with sensitive skin, aged 25-50 years, were selected. They used the product once in the morning and once in the evening for 7 consecutive days. They stopped using it on the 8th day. Follow-up visits were conducted on days 1, 3, 7, 8, 10, and 14. Under the conditions of temperature (20±2)℃ and humidity (50±10)%, the facial moisture content was tested 20 minutes after the subjects cleansed their faces to evaluate the product's repairing effect on human skin.

[0116] The experimental results are shown in Table 5.

[0117] Table 5. Skin Moisture Content (Unit: %)

[0118] sample D1 D3 D7 D8 D10 D14 Application Example 1 38.6 43.2 47.5 46.1 35.4 28.6 Application Example 2 36.9 42.8 45.7 42.3 31.6 25.1 Application Example 3 37.1 42.4 43.1 39.8 31.7 23.1 Application Example 4 38.1 40.6 42.5 41.2 30.6 19.3 Application Example 5 38.5 42.8 43.6 41.7 31.4 22.7 Application Example 6 38.8 43.1 46.8 45.5 33.5 24.3 Application Comparative Example 1 38.4 40.2 42.5 40.1 31.3 15.4 Application Comparative Example 2 37.5 42.1 45.4 36.2 28.5 10.3 Application Comparative Example 3 37.2 38.8 40.1 35.9 25.5 9.2 Application Comparative Example 4 38.1 41.5 43.3 38.4 27.7 9.6 Application Comparative Example 5 38.0 41.7 42.8 40.5 30.6 15.1 Application Comparative Example 6 38.4 41.5 44.8 35.6 28.9 11.5

[0119] Ceramides can promote skin barrier repair and enhance skin hydration, and this repairing effect can continue for a period of time after discontinuation of use. Although both NS and NP ceramides have good moisturizing effects, NP is more effective at increasing skin hydration, but NS is better at maintaining hydration after discontinuation of use. When the two are properly combined, they can not only significantly increase skin moisture content but also maintain this effect for a long time. However, the moisturizing effect of short-chain ceramides is weaker than that of long-chain ceramides. It is speculated that long-chain ceramides stay more on the epidermis or active epidermis, playing a role in repairing the skin barrier.

[0120] The effect of exogenous ceramides on skin thickness:

[0121] Experimental principle: Short-chain ceramides can act on deeper layers of the skin, providing signaling and cell communication functions to thicken the epidermis and promote skin barrier repair. The experiment applied ceramides with different structures to products to examine the effects of exogenous ceramides in repairing the epidermal barrier.

[0122] Experimental Methods: Sixty subjects with sensitive skin, aged 35-50 years, were selected. They used the product once daily, morning and evening, for 12 consecutive weeks. Follow-up visits were conducted at weeks 4, 8, and 12. Under conditions of (20±2)℃ and (50±10)% humidity, an ultrasound scanner was used 20 minutes after the subjects cleansed their faces. C. Test skin echo intensity to evaluate the product's effect on thickening human skin.

[0123] The experimental results are shown in Table 6.

[0124] Table 6. Skin echogenicity enhancement rate (unit: %).

[0125] sample W4 W8 W12 Application Example 1 -0.1 0.1 0.3 Application Example 2 -0.1 0.2 0.6 Application Example 3 0.1 0.8 1.5 Application Example 4 0.1 0.1 0.3 Application Example 5 1.0 2.2 4.2 Application Example 6 0.1 0.2 0.4 Application Comparative Example 1 -0.1 0.1 0.2 Application Comparative Example 2 -0.1 -0.1 0.1 Application Comparative Example 3 -0.1 -0.1 0.1 Application Comparative Example 4 -0.2 0.1 0.1 Application Comparative Example 5 -0.1 -0.1 0.1 Application Comparative Example 6 -0.1 -0.1 0.1

[0126] As shown in Table 6, the examples containing short-chain ceramides exhibited a significant skin barrier-enhancing effect. This is because short-chain ceramides more easily penetrate the epidermis to activate keratinocytes and fibroblasts in the dermis, promoting thickening of both the epidermis and dermis. Medium-chain and long-chain ceramides, however, cannot penetrate the epidermis or generate short-chain ceramides, and therefore do not have a significant skin-thickening effect.

[0127] Consumer sensory testing:

[0128] Experimental principle: Through real-world consumer trials, the skin of the tested products was scored in several dimensions, including moisturizing effect, flaking relief effect, redness reduction effect, discomfort relief effect, and skin firmness, in both the application examples 1-6 and the comparative examples 1-6, to evaluate the true efficacy of the products.

[0129] Experimental method: Consumers filled out a questionnaire after the test, with the highest score being 5 and the lowest score being 0.

[0130] The experimental results are shown in Table 7.

[0131] Table 7. Average scores of human trial evaluation results (unit: points).

[0132]

[0133]

[0134] As shown in Table 7, adding a single ceramide to a product as a moisturizer and emollient, even at a high concentration, falls far short of achieving the desired repair effect. Adding one or more ceramides that cannot derive into multiple subtypes to a product can replenish the intercellular matrix to some extent, but at a high cost. Long-chain ceramides can effectively maintain skin moisture, but they cannot penetrate the epidermis to promote cell regeneration. Thickening the epidermis and strengthening the skin's natural barrier is the best repair method.

[0135] This invention rationally combines ceramides NS and NP of different chain lengths, which not only induces the skin to synthesize more subtypes of ceramides, facilitating the synthesis of antimicrobial peptides in the skin, but also thickens the epidermis and strengthens the barrier, and has a certain firming and wrinkle-reducing effect, exhibiting excellent repair efficacy. The main components of ceramides in the stratum corneum of the skin are ceramide NP, ceramide AP, and ceramide EOP, corresponding to the ceramide composition of Comparative Example 3. The main components of ceramides in the entire skin are ceramide NP22, ceramide NH22, ceramide AH22, ceramide AS22, ceramide AP22, ceramide NS22, and ceramide EOP22, corresponding to the ceramide composition of Comparative Example 4. As can be seen from Comparative Examples 3 and 4, even when combined according to the proportion of ceramides in the skin, the effect is not better than that of Examples 1-6 of this application.

[0136] The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited to the above embodiments. Any changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, or simplifications made without departing from the spirit and principle of the present invention shall be considered equivalent substitutions and shall be included within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A ceramide composition, characterized in that, The ceramide composition comprises ceramide NS and ceramide NP in a mass ratio of (1-10):1; wherein the ceramide NS is selected from at least one of ceramide NS6, ceramide NS18, and ceramide NS22; and the ceramide NP is selected from at least one of ceramide NP6, ceramide NP12, ceramide NP18, and ceramide NP22.

2. The ceramide composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramide composition comprises ceramide NS22, ceramide NP6 and ceramide NP18 in a mass ratio of 8:0.5:0.5 to 1:1:

1.

3. The ceramide composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The ceramide composition comprises ceramide NS6, ceramide NS18, ceramide NS22, ceramide NP12 and ceramide NP18 in a mass ratio of 3: 3: 3: 0.5: 0.5 to 1: 1: 1: 1:

1.

4. The ceramide composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The ceramide composition consists of ceramide NS6 and ceramide NP6 in a mass ratio of 10:1 to 1:

1.

5. A cosmetic product, characterized in that, Includes the ceramide composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. The cosmetic product according to claim 5, characterized in that, The amount of the ceramide composition used is 0.01-1% by weight of cosmetic product.

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