An oily liquid cosmetic

Abstract

The present invention is an oily liquid cosmetic comprising the following components: polydimethylsiloxane (A) 60% by mass or more, preferably 70% by mass or more; N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide (B) 0.01 to 1% by mass, preferably 0.03 to 0.5% by mass; and a compatibilizer (C) for the component (A) and the component (B) 0.5 to 35% by mass, preferably 1 to 15% by mass. The viscosity of the cosmetic is preferably 5 to 100,000 mPa·s as measured at 25°C using a B-type rotational viscometer.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to an oil-based liquid cosmetic that is easy to apply, has excellent gloss, is resistant to color transfer, and has excellent stability. Background Technology

[0002] Oil-based liquid cosmetics such as lip gloss, lipstick topcoat, and liquid lipstick generally require a non-sticky texture, easy application, and a glossy, smooth finish. Additionally, they should resist color transfer (i.e., have the ability to inhibit color transfer), which refers to the transfer of cosmetics applied to the skin or lips to surfaces such as clothing or cups. To address these issues, technologies have been developed that incorporate silicone oils, such as combining phenyl silicone, a liquid hyperbranched ester compound with a specific structure, and an oil-based gelling agent (Patent Document 1), and mixing silicone oil of a specific viscosity, a dimer dilinoleic acid derivative, and a dextrin fatty acid ester (Patent Document 2). However, while these technologies can suppress stickiness and impart a glossy finish, their resistance to color transfer to cups and similar surfaces has not yet reached a completely satisfactory level. Furthermore, in this specification, "ability to inhibit color transfer" and "color transfer resistance" are used interchangeably.

[0003] It is known that, in addition to hydrocarbon oils and plant oils, silicone oil is also used as an oily base material in oily liquid cosmetics. For example, Patent Document 3 discloses an oily hair care cosmetic that uses dimethyl polysiloxane as a main base material, and dimethyl polysiloxane is a type of silicone oil. On the other hand, N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamides, represented by N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, are known as oil gelling agents. Because they can turn many liquid oils into transparent gels, they have been extensively studied in recent years, especially in the field of aesthetically pleasing stick-shaped oily solid cosmetics. For example, Patent Document 4 describes a method for forming a solid or semi-solid skin agent with methylphenyl polysiloxane as the main matrix by combining it with N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide. This document describes that the amount of N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide is 0.1% to 10%, and if the amount is less than 0.1%, it is difficult to achieve the effect of the invention (bottom left column on page 4). Furthermore, Patent Document 5 describes a method for curing by incorporating 1-30% by mass of a gelling agent such as dibutyllauroyl glutamine (N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide) into a branched higher alcohol (see paragraphs 0014-0015). As such, most examples of using oil gelling agents are for curing or semi-curing oily base materials. However, in the field of oily liquid cosmetics where oily base materials are used in liquid form, there are very few examples of incorporating oily gelling agents, especially in liquid cosmetics where dimethyl polysiloxane is the main oily component; no examples of using N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide have been found.

[0004] Existing technical documents

[0005] Patent documents

[0006] Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2012-149041

[0007] Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2014-198705

[0008] Patent Document 3: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2019-099533

[0009] Patent Document 4: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2-180805

[0010] Patent Document 5: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2017-009452 Summary of the Invention

[0011] This invention was made under such technical background, and its purpose is to provide an oil-based liquid cosmetic that is easy to apply, has excellent gloss, is resistant to color transfer, and has excellent stability.

[0012] To address the aforementioned problems, the inventors conducted in-depth research and discovered that in oily liquid cosmetics, using dimethyl polysiloxane as the main base material, combined with a small amount of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide, and combining it with an oil agent that exhibits excellent solubility in both, is effective in improving the performance of oily liquid cosmetics, thus completing this invention.

[0013] Thus, according to the present invention, an oily liquid cosmetic is provided, comprising the following components in the following proportions: dimethyl polysiloxane (A) at a proportion of 60% by mass or more, N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide (B) at 0.01 to 1% by mass, and a compatibilizer (C) for the above components (A) and (B) at 0.5 to 35% by mass.

[0014] The effects of the invention

[0015] The oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is easy to apply, has excellent gloss, is resistant to color transfer, and has excellent stability. Detailed Implementation

[0016] In this invention, the "liquid" in liquid cosmetics refers to a liquid that is fluid at 25°C. The viscosity of this liquid, measured at 25°C by a type B rotational viscometer, is preferably 5–100,000 mPa·s. More preferably, the viscosity is in the range of 100–50,000 mPa·s, and even more preferably 1,000–20,000 mPa·s. Within this range, the liquid cosmetic will possess advantages such as ease of application and excellent gloss. Because it is a liquid cosmetic, compared to solid cosmetics, it is easier to apply, the applied surface tends to be smooth, and thus it has the advantage of excellent gloss.

[0017] The oily liquid cosmetic of the present invention comprises: (A) dimethyl polysiloxane as the main base material, and a small amount of (B) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide for adjusting viscosity.

[0018] The component (A) dimethylpolysiloxane used in this invention preferably has a kinematic viscosity of 200–20,000 mm at 25°C. 2 / s. More preferably 500 to 10,000 mm. 2 / s, further preferably 800-8,000 mm 2 / s. If the viscosity of dimethylpolysiloxane is too low, the gloss and resistance to color transfer tend to decrease. Furthermore, if it is too high, it becomes viscous when applied, making it difficult to apply to the skin and lips.

[0019] Specific examples of commercially available dimethylpolysiloxanes that can be used include: polydimethylsiloxane (a linear polymer in which the ends of the dimethylpolysiloxane structure are closed by trimethylsiloxy groups), the KF-96 series manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry, and the SH200 series manufactured by Dow Toray. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more, appropriately adjusted to a predetermined viscosity.

[0020] The content of ingredient (A) dimethylpolysiloxane in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, as long as it falls within the range of the main base material, typically 60% by mass or more, preferably 70% by mass or more, and more preferably 80% by mass or more. If the content of ingredient (A) dimethylpolysiloxane is too low, the resistance to color transfer may decrease. Furthermore, in the present invention, "% by mass" refers to a percentage relative to the total amount of the cosmetic unless otherwise specified.

[0021] Ingredient (B) N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide used in this invention is a well-known oily gelling agent in the cosmetics industry. It is formed by replacing the hydrogen atom of the amino group of L-glutamic acid with an acyl group, and converting the two carboxyl groups into an alkylamide structure. The acyl group can include unsaturated bonds and can be straight-chain or branched. The number of carbon atoms in the acyl group is usually 8 to 16, preferably 8 to 12. Specific examples of acyl groups include lauroyl, 2-ethylhexanoyl, etc. In addition, the two alkyl groups forming the amide structure usually have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms. Specific examples include ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, and n-hexyl, etc. The two alkyl groups can be the same or different. Preferred specific examples of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamides include N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutyramide and N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutyramide, etc. N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamides can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0022] The content of component (B) in the oily cosmetic of the present invention is 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight. If too much is added, the coating will lack smoothness, and the gloss will decrease after application. In addition, if too little is added, the powder is prone to precipitation in the mixed system.

[0023] The N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide of component (B) can be a commercially available product. Examples of commercially available products as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide include: Gelanization Agene GP-1, manufactured by Ajinomoto; examples of commercially available products as N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide include: Gelanization Agene EB-21, manufactured by Ajinomoto.

[0024] In the oily cosmetic of the present invention, component (C) is a compatibilizer for components (A) and (B). Because component (B) used in the present invention has low solubility in component (A), it is difficult to obtain a cosmetic with uniform viscosity even when heated to 150°C using only components (A) and (B). Component (C) is an oil that is liquid at 25°C, where the solubility of component (B) is higher than that of component (A). When prepared in equal proportions with component (A), it forms a homogeneous liquid mixture without phase separation. Preferably, when the mass ratio of the mixture of components (A), (B), and (C) is 94.9 / 0.1 / 5 [(A) / (B) / (C)], a homogeneous liquid mixture can be formed at room temperature (25°C). More preferably, when the mass ratio of the mixture of components (A), (B), and (C) is 96.9 / 0.1 / 3 [(A) / (B) / (C)], a homogeneous liquid mixture can be formed at room temperature (25°C). By using component (C), the melting temperature of component (B) in the manufacture of cosmetics can be set lower, and a liquid mixture with appropriate and uniform viscosity can be obtained.

[0025] Component (C) is not particularly restricted as long as it meets the above requirements. Specific examples include hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, ester oils, and cyclic organosilicones and modified silicone oils, which are more compatible with hydrocarbon oils than component (A).

[0026] Examples of hydrocarbon oils that are liquid at 25°C include saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons having 12 to 40 carbon atoms. More specifically, examples include isododecane, isohexadecane, isoparaffins, polybutene, polyisobutylene, liquid paraffin, α-olefin oligomers, squalane, and petrolatum.

[0027] Examples of higher fatty acids that are liquid at 25°C include saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids with 12 to 36 carbon atoms. More specifically, examples include isostearic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid.

[0028] Examples of higher alcohols that are liquid at 25°C include saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched higher alcohols having 12 to 36 carbon atoms, and more specifically, isostearyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, etc.

[0029] Examples of ester oils that are liquid at 25°C include: esters composed of fatty acids with 3 to 24 carbon atoms and alcohols with 3 to 24 carbon atoms; esters composed of fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and polyols; and esters composed of carbonic acid and alcohols with 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific examples include: esters composed of fatty acids with 3 to 24 carbon atoms and alcohols with 3 to 24 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, isodecanyl isononanoate, isothiadecanyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl dodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, hexyl laurate, and 2-hexyl laurate. Esters such as decyl palmitate, isothiazines, isocetyl palmitate, isodecanyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl alcohol isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucic acid, and jojoba oil; esters composed of fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and polyols include: caprylic / capric triglyceride, triethylhexanoate, triisostearate, decaisostearate, tetraisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, and macadamia nut oil; esters composed of acids and alcohols with 8 to 24 carbon atoms include: dioctyl carbonate, etc.

[0030] Examples of silicone oils other than component (A) include: cyclic silicones, phenyl-modified silicones, methyl polytrimethylsiloxanes, octyl polytrimethylsiloxanes, etc.

[0031] From the viewpoint of ensuring uniform dissolution of the N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide in component (B) and good compatibility with component (A), ester oils that are liquid at 25°C and phenyl-modified organosilicones are preferred. Particularly preferred are branched ester oils derived from branched higher fatty acids or branched higher alcohols, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotraceneyl isononanoate, glyceryl triethylhexanoate, and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, as well as methylphenyl polysiloxanes.

[0032] The compatibilizer content of component (C) is 0.5% to 35% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 3% to 10% by weight. If the compatibilizer content is too low, component (B) will be difficult to dissolve, and the uniformity of the formulation will decrease. On the other hand, if the content is too high, the resistance to color transfer will decrease.

[0033] The oily liquid cosmetic of the present invention may contain ingredients used in ordinary cosmetics, such as additives, to the extent that the effect of the present invention is not substantially impaired, including: powders, dyes, solid oils, oil gelling agents other than ingredient (B), oil-soluble resins, polyols, lower alcohols, ultraviolet absorbers, ultraviolet scattering agents, emollients, perfumes, antioxidants, preservatives, defoamers, various extracts, etc.

[0034] The oily liquid cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods. For example, after mixing all raw materials and heating to form a uniform melt product, it can be poured into various containers in the molten state and cooled or allowed to stand to cool, thus forming an oily liquid cosmetic.

[0035] The oil-based liquid cosmetic of this invention can be used in lipsticks, lip glosses, lipstick top coats, lipstick base creams, lip serums, etc. In particular, because it can produce a cosmetic film with excellent gloss, resistance to color transfer, long-lasting color, and long-lasting shine, it is suitable for lipsticks, lip glosses, and lipstick top coats.

[0036] Example

[0037] The invention will be described in more detail below with examples and comparative examples, but the invention is not limited to these examples. Furthermore, unless otherwise stated, the mixing amounts in the formulations described below are percentages of the total mass.

[0038] In addition, the evaluation methods for the oily liquid cosmetics in the following examples and comparative examples are as follows.

[0039] Evaluation item a. Easy to apply

[0040] Evaluation item b. Gloss

[0041] Evaluation item c. Resistance to color transfer (1)

[0042] Evaluation item d. Resistance to color transfer (2)

[0043] Evaluation item e. Homogeneity of the formulation

[0044] Evaluation item f. Stability

[0045] A panel of 10 experts conducted a usage test on each of the assessment items from a to c. The test was conducted by applying the sample to the lips of the panel members, and the evaluation was carried out using a 5-point sensory rating scale (scores) and determined based on the average score of the panel members using the following evaluation criteria.

[0046] (Fraction)

[0047] 5 points: Excellent.

[0048] 4 points: Excellent.

[0049] 3 points: Average.

[0050] 2 points: Poor.

[0051] 1 point: Very poor.

[0052] (Evaluation Criteria)

[0053] S: Average score of 4.0 or above

[0054] A: Average score between 3.5 and 4.0

[0055] B: Average score between 2.5 and 3.5

[0056] C: Average score less than 2.5 points

[0057] (Evaluation item D. Resistance to color transfer (2))

[0058] The lipstick raincoat was evaluated for its resistance to color transfer (2) as described in evaluation item d. Specifically, after applying lipstick to artificial skin (product name: Bio Skin Plate, manufactured by Beaulux), the color transfer resistance was assessed at approximately 2 mg / cm². 2 To evaluate the color transfer of lipstick to a tissue, apply an oil-based liquid cosmetic in a specific ratio. Place the tissue on the lipstick and gently press down, then observe the degree of color transfer. The evaluation criteria are as follows.

[0059] (Evaluation Criteria)

[0060] S: No obvious color shift was observed even on the third attempt.

[0061] A: A slight color shift was observed on the second attempt, and a significant color shift was observed on the third attempt.

[0062] B: A slight color shift was observed on the first attempt, and a significant color shift was observed on the second attempt.

[0063] C: A clear color transfer was observed on the first attempt.

[0064] (Evaluation item e. Homogeneity of the formulation)

[0065] The completed formulation is gently applied to artificial skin (product name: BioSkin Plate, manufactured by Beurax) using a spatula. When the entire formulation is a uniform viscous liquid, it is classified as S. When the gel-like part and the liquid part are mixed, it is classified as C.

[0066] (Evaluation item f. Stability) For the lip gloss samples, the stability of evaluation item f was evaluated. The samples were stored in glass bottles in a constant temperature bath at 60°C, and the degree of precipitation of the coloring material and pearlescent agent was examined after 1 week. No precipitation was observed (S), slight precipitation was observed (A), significant precipitation was observed (B), and complete precipitation was observed (C).

[0067] Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-4

[0068] (Lipstick Raincoat)

[0069] Lipstick raincoats with the formulations shown in Table 1 were prepared according to the following manufacturing steps, and their flowability, formulation uniformity, application smoothness, and resistance to color transfer (1) were evaluated using the methods described above. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[0070] (Manufacturing steps)

[0071] (1) Heat the components 1 to 14 shown in Table 1 to about 135°C and mix them evenly.

[0072] (2) While the lip gloss is still in a melted state, fill it into the lip gloss container with the applicator on the cap, and let it cool to form a lip gloss raincoat.

[0073] Table 1

[0074]

[0075] *1 Product Name: Silicone KF-96 3,000CS (Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)

[0076] *2 Product Name: Silicone KF-96 1,000CS (Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)

[0077] *3 Product Name: Silicone KF-96 5,000CS (Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)

[0078] *4 Product Name: Silicone KF-96H 100,000CS (Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)

[0079] *5 Product Name: Silicone KF-96 100CS (Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry Manufacturing)

[0080] *6 Product Name: Refined Polybutene HV-100F (Manufactured by Japan Natural Products Co., Ltd.)

[0081] *7 Product Name: Gelatinizer GP-1 (Manufactured by Ajinomoto)

[0082] *8 Product Name: Gelatinizing Agent EB-21 (Manufactured by Ajinomoto)

[0083] *9 Product Name: Leopard KS2 (Manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling)

[0084] *10 Product Name: Saracos 99 (Manufactured by Nissin Orio)

[0085] *11 Product Name KF-56A (Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry Manufacturing)

[0086] *12 Product Name KF-54HV (Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry Manufacturing)

[0087] *13 Product Name: Pladool-H (Manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemicals)

[0088] *14 Product Name: Cosmall 43V (Manufactured by Nissin Orio)

[0089] As shown in Table 1, the lipstick coatings of the present invention (Examples 1-5) exhibit excellent ease of application, gloss, resistance to color transfer, and uniformity of formulation. In contrast, the lipstick coating of Comparative Example 1, which uses polybutene, commonly found in conventional oil-based liquid cosmetics (e.g., Patent Document 2), shows very poor resistance to color transfer. Furthermore, in Comparative Examples 2 and 4, which contain a large amount of phenyl-modified silicone substitute ingredient (A), not only is the uniformity of the formulation compromised, but the resistance to color transfer is also poor. The resistance to color transfer in Comparative Example 3, where the amount of ingredient (A) is less than 60% by mass, is significantly worse.

[0090] Examples 6 and 7 and Comparative Examples 5-9

[0091] (Lip gloss)

[0092] Lip glosses with the formulations shown in Table 2 were prepared according to the manufacturing steps described above, and their ease of application, gloss, resistance to color transfer (1), uniformity, and stability were evaluated using the methods described above. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.

[0093] Table 2

[0094]

[0095] ※15 Product Name: Himashi Hydrogenated Fatty Acids (Made by Nichiyu)

[0096] ※16 Product Name: Leopard ISK (Chiba Flour Manufacturing Co., Ltd.)

[0097] ※17 Product Name: SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 (Manufactured by Claudia)

[0098] ※18 Product Name: Saracos 913 (Manufactured by Nissin Orio)

[0099] As shown in Table 2, the lip glosses of the present invention (Examples 6 and 7) exhibit excellent ease of application, gloss, resistance to color transfer, uniformity of formulation, and stability. In contrast, the lip gloss of Comparative Example 5, which does not contain ingredient (B), shows lower stability. Furthermore, in the lip gloss of Comparative Example 6, which does not contain ingredient (C), ingredient (B) was not completely dissolved, resulting in poor uniformity of the formulation. Additionally, the lip glosses of Comparative Examples 7-9, which contain an oily gelling agent other than ingredient (B), show significantly poorer application properties.

[0100] Example 8

[0101] (Liquid lipstick)

[0102] Lipstick raincoats with the formulations shown in Table 3 were prepared according to the following manufacturing steps, and their ease of application, gloss, resistance to color transfer (1), uniformity of the formulation, and stability were evaluated using the methods described above. The evaluation results are shown in Table 3.

[0103] (Manufacturing steps)

[0104] (1) Heat components 1 to 9 shown in Table 3 to about 130°C and mix them evenly.

[0105] (2) After cooling to room temperature, fill the lip gloss container with an applicator on the cap to obtain liquid lipstick.

[0106] Table 3

[0107]

[0108] *19 Product Name: Metashain MT1080RSS1 (Manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass)

[0109] *20 Product Name: Metashain MT1080RGS1 (Manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass)

[0110] As shown in Table 3, the liquid lipstick of Example 8 has excellent ease of application, gloss, resistance to color transfer, uniformity of formulation, and stability.

[0111] Industrial applicability

[0112] According to the present invention, an oily liquid cosmetic is provided, which is easy to apply, has excellent gloss, is resistant to color transfer, and has excellent stability.

Claims

1. An oily liquid cosmetic, the main base material of which is dimethylpolysiloxane (A), characterized in that, The product comprises the following proportions of ingredients: relative to the total oil-based liquid cosmetic, dimethylpolysiloxane (A) accounts for 60% by mass or more, N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide (B) accounts for 0.05 to 0.5% by mass, and the compatibilizer (C) for ingredients (A) and (B) accounts for 5 to 35% by mass. The kinematic viscosity of dimethylpolysiloxane at 25°C is 200–10,000 mm⁻¹. 2 / s, the acyl group of N-acyl-L-glutamic acid dialkylamide has 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and the alkyl group has 2 to 6 carbon atoms. The compatibilizer is either an ester oil that is liquid at 25°C or a phenyl-modified organosilicon that is liquid at 25°C.

2. The oily liquid cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that: The viscosity of oily liquid cosmetics, measured at 25°C using a type B rotational viscometer, ranges from 5 to 100,000 mPa·s.

3. The oily liquid cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that: The oily liquid cosmetics mentioned are lip gloss, lipstick topcoat, lipstick base, or lip serum.

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