An anti-wrinkle serum

Abstract

This invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising: an oil phase and an aqueous phase containing polyols; the polyols in the aqueous phase comprising not less than 10% by weight; and a soothing ingredient formulated as bisabolol, asiaticoside, inositol glycerophosphate choline salt, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Elaeagnus angustifolia extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, ginger root extract, shea butter extract, Cardiospermum halicachabum flower / leaf / vine extract, and combinations thereof. This invention, by combining active ingredients that inhibit inflammatory mediators, exhibits a superior inhibitory effect on the irritation caused by polyols.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of anti-wrinkle formulations, and more specifically, to an anti-wrinkle serum. Background Technology

[0002] Many serums on the market now include peptides in their formulas to enhance their anti-wrinkle effects. Peptides come in various types, and different types work through different mechanisms to reduce wrinkles; therefore, most serums are products that combine multiple peptides.

[0003] Through observation and research, the inventor discovered the following defects in the existing technology:

[0004] High levels of peptides in serums can cause irritation and a poor skin feel. Research has found this to be due to excessive polyols in the formula. Firstly, most products already contain polyols as solvents in their formulations. Secondly, the addition of peptides inevitably introduces polyols into the formula, especially when the peptide content is high. This results in a very high proportion of polyols in serums with high peptide content.

[0005] Generally, cosmetic formulations do not contain excessive amounts of polyols. This is because polyols have strong hygroscopic properties, which help lock in moisture and hydrate the skin. However, when the amount of polyols added is too high, it not only creates a viscous, moisturizing feel, but also causes irritation due to the excessive hygroscopicity of polyols. Furthermore, because polyols are so hygroscopic, they can directly absorb moisture from the skin, reducing the moisture content of the stratum corneum and damaging the skin barrier. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The technical problem to be solved by this invention:

[0007] How to reduce the irritation caused by high levels of polyols.

[0008] Technical means used to solve technical problems:

[0009] This invention provides a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises:

[0010] A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises:

[0011] Oil phase and aqueous phase containing polyols;

[0012] The polyol in the aqueous phase shall be no less than 10% by weight;

[0013] The soothing ingredients are formulated as bisabolol, asiaticoside, glycerophosphate inositol choline salt, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Elaeagnus angustifolia extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, ginger root extract, shea butter extract, Cardiospermum halicachabum flower / leaf / vine extract, and combinations thereof.

[0014] Optionally, the soothing ingredient is formulated as 0.005 to 0.5% by weight of asiaticoside.

[0015] Optionally, the soothing ingredient is formulated as 0.05 to 0.3% by weight of asiaticoside.

[0016] Optionally, the polyol is configured to have a weight percentage of 10-20%.

[0017] Optionally, the polyol is configured to be 15-20% by weight.

[0018] Optionally, the oil phase is configured to have a weight percentage of 5-25%.

[0019] Polyols such as glycerin have strong water-absorbing properties as moisturizers, providing the skin with a water-locking and moisturizing effect. However, polyols can create a viscous, moisturizing feel, and are generally added in low amounts to cosmetics. Adjusting the oil content to 5-25% by weight can reduce the oily film feeling, achieving a balance with the large amount of polyols in the formula on the skin, resulting in a more pleasant user experience.

[0020] Optionally, the oil phase is configured to have a weight percentage of 5-15%.

[0021] The present invention also provides a topical skin preparation using any of the aforementioned cosmetic compositions.

[0022] Beneficial effects:

[0023] Regarding the irritation problem in products containing high levels of peptides, the inventors discovered that it was caused by excessively high levels of polyols. During their research, the inventors unexpectedly found that the active ingredients that inhibit inflammatory mediators were more effective at inhibiting the stimulation of polyols, a source of irritation, compared to other soothing ingredients, especially when the polyol content was high.

[0024] The inventors also discovered that in products with high peptide content, excessive polyols can cause not only irritation but also a sticky feeling on the skin. This invention found that when the weight percentage of oil in the product is controlled within the range of 5-25%, the skin feel problem caused by polyols can be improved.

[0025] This invention incorporates a variety of different peptides, and the total content of peptides is very high. This not only ensures a significant anti-wrinkle effect, but also effectively solves the irritation and skin feel problems of high-peptide products, thus improving the anti-wrinkle effect while overcoming the defects of existing products. Detailed Implementation

[0026] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. Obviously, the described embodiments are not all the embodiments.

[0027] The elements and features described in one embodiment of the invention may be combined with elements and features shown in one or more other embodiments. It should be noted that, for clarity, representations and descriptions of components and processes unrelated to the invention and known to those skilled in the art have been omitted from the description.

[0028] definition:

[0029] In this article, the term "not higher than" means: including cases of less than and less than or equal to.

[0030] In this article, the term "not less than" means: including cases of being greater than or equal to.

[0031] Unless otherwise stated herein, all parts by weight herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention.

[0032] In this article, the term "all ranges" refers to both each specific range within a given range and combinations of subranges between given ranges. For example, the range 1–5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, and also includes subranges such as 2–5, 3–5, 2–3, 2–4, and 1–4.

[0033] In this paper, the range of ratios refers to the combination of each specific ratio within a given range and subranges between given ranges.

[0034] This invention

[0035] This invention provides a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises:

[0036] A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises:

[0037] Oil phase and aqueous phase containing polyols;

[0038] The polyol in the aqueous phase shall be no less than 10% by weight;

[0039] The soothing ingredients are formulated as bisabolol, asiaticoside, glycerophosphate inositol choline salt, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Elaeagnus angustifolia extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, ginger root extract, shea butter extract, Cardiospermum halicachabum flower / leaf / vine extract, and combinations thereof.

[0040] Optionally, the soothing ingredient is formulated as 0.005 to 0.5% by weight of asiaticoside.

[0041] Optionally, the soothing ingredient is formulated as 0.05 to 0.3% by weight of asiaticoside.

[0042] Optionally, the polyol is configured to have a weight percentage of 10-20%.

[0043] Optionally, the polyol is configured to be 15-20% by weight.

[0044] Optionally, the oil phase is configured to have a weight percentage of 5-25%.

[0045] Optionally, the oil phase is configured to have a weight percentage of 5-15%.

[0046] The present invention also provides a topical skin preparation using any of the aforementioned cosmetic compositions. The topical preparation includes toners, eye creams, nourishing creams, massage creams, cleansing creams, cleansing foams, cleansing waters, lotions, creams, body serums, shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, serums, masks, or other topical skin agents.

[0047] The cosmetic composition of the present invention includes / may include the following:

[0048] polyols

[0049] Optionally, the polyol may contain no more than 20% by weight.

[0050] Optionally, the polyol is 10-20% by weight.

[0051] This invention does not limit the specific types of polyols; when implementing this invention, reasonable selection can be made according to the actual situation.

[0052] Optionally, the polyol includes 1,2-hexanediol, glycerol, and 1,2-pentanediol, as well as combinations thereof.

[0053] Optionally, the polyol comprises, by weight, 0.8% of 1,2-hexanediol, 2% of 1,2-pentanediol and glycerol.

[0054] Soothing ingredients

[0055] Optionally, the soothing ingredient comprises 0.005 to 0.5% by weight.

[0056] Optionally, the soothing ingredient comprises 0.05 to 0.3% by weight.

[0057] The soothing ingredient is an active ingredient that inhibits inflammatory mediators.

[0058] This invention does not limit the specific types of active ingredients that inhibit inflammatory mediators; when implementing this invention, conventional selection can be made according to the actual situation.

[0059] Optionally, the soothing ingredients include bisabolol, asiaticoside, inositol glycerophosphate choline salt, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Elaeagnus angustifolia extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, ginger root extract, shea butter extract, Cardiospermum halicachabum flower / leaf / vine extract, and combinations thereof.

[0060] In one embodiment, the soothing ingredient is configured as 0.105% by weight of asiaticoside.

[0061] oil

[0062] Optionally, the oil content is 5-25% by weight.

[0063] In one embodiment, the oil content is 6% by weight.

[0064] This invention does not limit the specific type of oil; when implementing this invention, a reasonable selection can be made according to the actual situation.

[0065] In one embodiment, the oil comprises coconut oil-caprylate / capric acid ester, caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, meadowfoam (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, isononyl isononanoate, avocado (PERSEA GRATISSIMA) oil, squalane, baobab (ADANSONIA DIGITATA) seed oil, sclerocarpa (SCLEROCARYA BIRREA) seed oil, and combinations thereof.

[0066] In one embodiment, the oil comprises, by weight, 2% coconut oil octanoate / caprylate, 2% caprylic / caprylic triglyceride, 1% meadowfoam (Limenthanes Alba) seed oil and 1% isononyl isononanoate.

[0067] preservative

[0068] Optionally, the preservative is present in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight.

[0069] This invention does not limit the specific types of preservatives; when implementing this invention, appropriate choices can be made based on the actual situation.

[0070] In one embodiment, the preservative comprises 0.4% by weight of hydroxyacetophenone.

[0071] Thickener

[0072] Optionally, the thickener is present in a weight ratio of 0.005 to 2%.

[0073] This invention does not limit the specific type of thickener; when implementing this invention, a reasonable selection can be made according to the actual situation.

[0074] Optionally, the thickener includes xanthan gum, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / behenol polyether-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, sodium acrylate copolymer, and combinations thereof.

[0075] Optionally, the thickener, by weight, comprises 0.05% xanthan gum, 0.2% polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, and 0.05% sodium hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

[0076] Film-forming agent

[0077] Optionally, the film-forming agent comprises 0.005 to 2% by weight.

[0078] This invention does not limit the specific types of film-forming agents; when implementing this invention, reasonable selection can be made according to the actual situation.

[0079] Optionally, the film-forming agent includes Sclerotium rolfssii gum, acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, castor oil / IPDI copolymer, and combinations thereof.

[0080] Optionally, the film-forming agent comprises 0.03% castor oil / IPDI copolymer by weight.

[0081] pH adjuster

[0082] Optionally, the pH adjuster is present in an amount of 0.001–2% by weight.

[0083] This invention does not limit the specific types of pH adjusters; when implementing this invention, appropriate selections can be made based on actual circumstances.

[0084] Optionally, the pH adjuster includes citric acid and sodium citrate.

[0085] Optionally, the pH adjuster is 0.25% by weight.

[0086] Optionally, the pH adjuster includes 0.2% citric acid and 0.05% sodium citrate by weight.

[0087] peptides

[0088] Optionally, the peptide is 5-35% by weight.

[0089] This invention does not limit the specific types of peptides; when implementing this invention, appropriate selections can be made based on actual circumstances.

[0090] Optionally, the peptide is selected from dipeptide diaminobutyryl benzylamide diacetate, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, acetyl octapeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl pentapeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-1, and combinations thereof.

[0091] Optionally, the peptide is 20% by weight.

[0092] Optionally, the peptide comprises, by weight, 5% dipeptide diaminobutyryl benzylamide diacetate, 2% palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1, 3% acetyl octapeptide-3 and 10% palmitoyl tripeptide-5.

[0093] active ingredients

[0094] Optionally, the active ingredient is 0.01-10% by weight.

[0095] This invention does not limit the specific types of active ingredients; when implementing this invention, reasonable selections can be made according to the actual situation.

[0096] Optionally, the active ingredient is selected from arbutin, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ergothioneine, ectoine, sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, plant extracts, glycyrrhizin flavonoids, and combinations thereof.

[0097] Optionally, the active ingredient is 2.2% by weight.

[0098] Preparation method of the present invention

[0099] The method for preparing the cosmetic composition of the present invention includes:

[0100] Add solvent, preservative and thickener to the main pot, heat and stir at 70-85℃ for 10-30 minutes to homogenize, cool and stir to 50℃, add pH adjuster and premixed active ingredient, continue stirring for several minutes until homogeneous, add peptide components in sequence, continue stirring for several minutes until homogeneous, add the oil completely mixed into the main pot, continue stirring for 3-10 minutes, cool to 35 minutes, degas and filter, and the product is ready.

[0101] Example 1

[0102] Experimental Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 were set up. The difference is:

[0103] Experimental Example 1 includes: approximately 5% polyol and 0.105% asiaticoside by weight.

[0104] Comparative Example 1 includes approximately 5% polyol and 0.105% 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol by weight.

[0105] Comparative Example 2 includes: approximately 5% polyols by weight, with no soothing ingredients.

[0106] Experimental Example 2 includes approximately 15% polyol and 0.105% asiaticoside by weight.

[0107] Comparative Example 3 includes approximately 15% by weight of polyol and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol.

[0108] Comparative Example 4 includes approximately 15% polyols by weight, with no soothing ingredients.

[0109] The specific formulations of Experimental Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 are shown in Table 1, and the specific formulations of Experimental Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3-4 are shown in Table 2.

[0110] Table 1

[0111]

[0112]

[0113] Table 2

[0114]

[0115]

[0116] Thirty participants were selected, aged 24–52 years, with a selected area not exceeding 50 mm². 2A suitable patch tester with a depth of approximately 1 mm was used. The test substance was added to the patch tester at a dose of 0.020–0.025 ml (g) using a closed patch test method. The patch tester was then applied to the back of the subject. After 24 hours, the test substance was removed. Skin reactions were observed at 0.5, 24, and 48 hours after removal. The results were recorded according to the skin reaction grading standards in the 2015 Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications. The skin reaction grading standards for the patch test are shown in Table 3, and the test results are shown in Tables 4–9.

[0117] Table 3

[0118]

[0119] Table 4

[0120]

[0121] Table 5

[0122]

[0123] Table 6

[0124]

[0125] Table 7

[0126]

[0127] Table 8

[0128]

[0129]

[0130] Table 9

[0131]

[0132] As can be seen from the results in Tables 4-9, the polyol content in Examples 1, 1, and 2 was relatively low. Except for 2, which lacked soothing components, Examples 1 and 1 effectively suppressed the stimulating response. However, when the amount of polyol increased (due to the increased peptide content), only Example 2 still showed good performance, while the subjects who received 3 and 4 showed varying numbers of stimulating responses.

[0133] The results show that when the polyol content in the formula is low, all known soothing ingredients can effectively suppress irritation and soothe the skin. However, when the polyol content is high, asiaticoside has a better soothing effect.

[0134] Example 2

[0135] Experimental Example 3 and Comparative Example 5 were set up, with the following differences:

[0136] Experimental Example 3 includes approximately 5% by weight of polyol, 25% by weight of oil, and by weight, 4% by weight of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / capric acid ester, 8% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, 6% by weight of meadowfoam (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 7% by weight of isononyl isononanoate.

[0137] Comparative Example 5 includes approximately 5% by weight of polyols, 30% by weight of oils, and by weight 6% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / capric acid ester, 8% caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, 7% meadowfoam (Limenthanes Alba) seed oil, and 9% isononyl isononanoate.

[0138] The specific formulations for Experimental Example 3 and Comparative Example 5 are shown in Table 10.

[0139] Table 10

[0140]

[0141] Experimental Example 3 and Comparative Example 5 were administered to the subjects, who were then asked to evaluate certain aspects of the product's feel on the skin after use. The total number of subjects was 60.

[0142] Evaluation criteria: 1 point is "very dissatisfied"; 2 points is "acceptable"; 3 points is "somewhat satisfied"; 4 points is "very satisfied".

[0143] The evaluation results of Experiment Example 3 are shown in Table 11, and the evaluation results of Comparative Example 5 are shown in Table 12.

[0144] Table 11

[0145]

[0146] Table 12

[0147]

[0148] Thirty-three subjects were selected. After cleansing, appropriate amounts of the products from Example 3 and Comparative Example 5 were applied to the face. The moisture content of the stratum corneum was measured using a skin moisture meter. The results are shown in Table 13.

[0149] Table 13

[0150] Baseline value (mean) 45.7 43.5 After 28 days of product use (average) 55.9 53.2 Difference 10.2 9.7

[0151] The results in Tables 11-13 show that, in formulations with a polyol content of 5%, the subjects' evaluations of Experimental Example 3 and Comparative Example 5 were comparable. The stratum corneum moisture content data for both Experimental Example 3 and Comparative Example 5 were approximately 10.

[0152] Therefore, when the content of polyols is low, adjusting the water-oil ratio has little effect on skin feel and the moisture content of the stratum corneum.

[0153] Example 3

[0154] Experimental Example 4 and Comparative Example 6 were set up. The difference is:

[0155] Experimental Example 4 includes approximately 15 parts by weight of polyol, 25% by weight of oil, and by weight, 4% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / capric acid ester, 8% caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, 6% meadowfoam (Limenthanes Alba) seed oil, and 7% isononyl isononanoate.

[0156] Comparative Example 6 includes approximately 15 parts by weight of polyol, 30% by weight of oil, and by weight, 6% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / capric acid ester, 8% of caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, 7% meadowfoam (Limenthanes Alba) seed oil, and 9% isononyl isononanoate.

[0157] The specific formulations for Experimental Example 4 and Comparative Example 6 are shown in Table 14.

[0158] Table 14

[0159]

[0160]

[0161] Following the method described in Example 2, a skin sensation questionnaire was administered to subjects in Experimental Example 4 and Comparative Example 6, and data on the moisture content of the stratum corneum were collected. The test results are shown in Tables 15-17.

[0162] Table 15

[0163]

[0164] Table 16

[0165]

[0166] Table 17

[0167] base value 34.8 38.7 After using the product for 28 days 64.2 47.5 Difference 29.4 8.8

[0168] As can be seen from the results in Tables 15-17, when the formula contains approximately 15% polyol by weight, when the water-oil ratio is adjusted, specifically when the oil content in the formula is configured to 25% and 30% respectively (i.e., Experimental Example 4 and Comparative Example 6), the subjects can clearly perceive differences in the product's spreadability, stickiness, and moisturizing feel.

[0169] Therefore, when the weight percentage of polyols in the formula is high, adjusting the water-oil ratio can effectively regulate the skin feel of the product and affect the moisture content of the stratum corneum.

[0170] Example 4

[0171] Experimental Examples 5-7 and Comparative Example 7 were set up. The difference is:

[0172] Comparative Example 7 includes approximately 15 parts by weight of polyol, 1% by weight of oil, and 1% by weight of isononyl isononanoate.

[0173] Experimental Example 5 includes approximately 15 parts by weight of polyol, 6% by weight of oil, and by weight 2% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / capric acid ester, 2% caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, 1% meadowfoam (Limenthanes Alba) seed oil, and 1% isononyl isononanoate.

[0174] Experimental Example 6 includes approximately 15 parts by weight of polyol, 10% by weight of oil, and by weight 3% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / capric acid ester, 3% caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride, 2% meadowfoam (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 2% isononyl isononanoate.

[0175] Experimental Example 7 includes approximately 15 parts by weight of polyol, 15% by weight of oil, and by weight, 3% of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / capric acid ester, 5% caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, 4% meadowfoam (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 3% isononyl isononanoate.

[0176] The specific ingredients are shown in Table 18.

[0177] Table 18

[0178]

[0179]

[0180] To further determine the minimum amount of oil to be added, in Example 4, the proportions of oil were set to 1%, 6%, 10%, and 15%, and the statistical results are shown in Tables 19-23. Following the method described in Example 2, subjects in Experiments 5-7 and Comparative Example 7 underwent a skin sensitivity questionnaire survey, and data on the moisture content of the stratum corneum were collected. The test results are shown in Tables 19-23.

[0181] Table 19

[0182]

[0183] Table 20

[0184]

[0185] Table 21

[0186]

[0187] Table 22

[0188]

[0189] Table 23

[0190] base value 37.9 35.7 33.5 30.5 After using the product for 28 days 42.5 67.9 68.8 69.4 Difference 4.6 32.2 35.3 38.9

[0191] The results in Tables 19-23 show that when the oil content in the formula is 6-25%, a large number of subjects are very satisfied with the skin feel, especially the spreadability, stickiness, and moisturizing sensation. The improved skin feel and significantly better stratum corneum moisture content are observed in Comparative Example 7 (Table 22), which has too low an oil content, resulting in poor skin feel and moisture content.

[0192] In the examples with oil content of 6%, 10%, and 15%, the skin stratum corneum moisture content was better than that of the example with oil content of 25%. This indicates that the lower the oil content by weight, the more hydrating the product and the stronger its ability to help the skin retain moisture.

[0193] Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0194] Those skilled in the art can modify the technical solutions described in the above embodiments or make equivalent substitutions for some of the technical features; however, such modifications or substitutions do not cause the essence of the corresponding technical solutions to deviate from the protection scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of this disclosure.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, characterized by comprising: By weight percentage, including: Water: Balance; 1,2-Hexanediol: 0.8%; 1,2-Pentanediol: 2%; p-Hydroxyacetophenone: 0.4%; Xanthan gum: 0.05%; Polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6: 0.20%; Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer: 0.05%; Citric acid: 0.2%; Sodium citrate: 0.05%; Water: 3%; Hydroxyacinthin: 0.105%; Water: 7%; Ectocin: 1.5%; Ergothioneine: 0.2%; Sodium hyaluronate: 0.5%; Dipeptide diaminobutyryl benzylamide diacetate, glycerol, water: 10%; Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, glycerol: 2%; Acetyl octapeptide-3, water: 3%; Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, glycerol, water: 10%; Cocoyl alcohol-caprylate / decanoate: 3%; Caprylic / capric triglyceride: 5%; Meadowfoam seed oil: 4%; Isonononyl isononate: 3%; Castor oil / IPDI copolymer: 0.3%; The composition includes 15% polyols; the polyols include 1,2-hexanediol, glycerol and 1,2-pentanediol.

2. A topical skin preparation, characterized in that, Includes the composition as described in claim 1.

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