A weaving process for a weft-knitted jacquard fabric

CN117779326BActive Publication Date: 2026-10-27FUJIAN HUAFENG NEW MATERIALS
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202311825725.X
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-12-28
Publication Date
2026-10-27
Estimated Expiration
2043-12-28

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

[0004]为此,需要提供一种纬编提花面料的编织工艺,解决现有提花面料提花花型呆板,无法满足提花面料的提花花型多样性的问题

Benefits of technology

[0016]区别于现有技术,上述技术方案采用在所述面层至少一织路进行x针y空编织所述织路的织针中至少有一个与空针相邻的织针在其一侧的织路对应进行集圈编织,使空针编织形成倾斜浮线的交织提花区;使用该工艺编织成的提花面料可以在面层上形成倾斜纹路,花型灵活,丰富了提花面料的提花花型多样性,且该面料结构稳定,易于织造,兼顾透气性,可运用于服装与鞋材上,用途广泛。

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Abstract

The application discloses a weaving process of a weft-knitted jacquard fabric, and at least one weaving way of a surface layer is subjected to x-stitch y-empty knitting, wherein x and y are positive integers; at least one of the knitted stitches of the weaving way adjacent to the empty stitch is subjected to tuck knitting on one side of the corresponding weaving way to form an interlaced jacquard area, and the remaining knitted stitches are subjected to opposite-hook loop knitting on the surface layer and a bottom layer; the jacquard fabric knitted by the above technical scheme can form inclined lines on the surface layer, the pattern is flexible, the jacquard pattern diversity of the jacquard fabric is enriched, the fabric structure is stable, the fabric is easy to weave, the air permeability is considered, and the fabric can be applied to clothes and shoe materials and has wide application.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of fabric technology, and in particular to a weaving process for a weft-knitted jacquard fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Most existing jacquard weft-knitted fabrics are surface jacquard, meaning the jacquard pattern is displayed on the surface layer. When the colors of the pattern are bright, the resulting pattern is also very prominent. Production mainly uses printing methods, where the pattern is printed and attached to the weft-knitted fabric itself to create a patterned fabric. However, because the pattern is printed, it is prone to peeling off after prolonged use, and the printed pattern covers the fabric's breathable pores, resulting in poor overall breathability. As consumers increasingly prioritize materials, comfort, and aesthetics in footwear, surface jacquard weft-knitted fabrics are finding it increasingly difficult to meet their demands.

[0003] Patent CN 115058821 A discloses a lightweight, perforated knitted jacquard fabric, its weaving process, and a shoe upper. The fabric is knitted using a double-sided circular weft knitting machine and includes a surface layer and a bottom layer. The surface layer consists of a first yarn, and the bottom layer consists of a second yarn. The fabric includes at least a perforated area. In this area, the first yarn on the surface layer has looped and floated structures spaced apart along its weave direction, forming a hollow structure. The needle positions of the second yarn corresponding to the floated structure on the surface layer form looped structures on the bottom layer. The needle positions of the second yarn corresponding to the looped structure on the surface layer are interlocked with the first yarn along its weave direction. Through the spaced looped and floated structures on the surface layer, combined with the knitted structure of the bottom layer, a double-layered knitted fabric with a jacquard effect is integrally woven, resulting in a lightweight and breathable fabric. Although the solution achieves the jacquard effect through weaving, the jacquard patterns of the woven fabric are limited and rigid, failing to meet the diversity of jacquard patterns required for jacquard fabrics. Summary of the Invention

[0004] Therefore, a weaving process for weft-knitted jacquard fabrics is needed to solve the problem that existing jacquard fabrics have rigid jacquard patterns and cannot meet the diversity of jacquard patterns.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides a weft-knitted jacquard fabric weaving process, wherein at least one weave of the surface layer is knitted with x needles and y empty stitches, where x and y are positive integers; at least one needle of the weave is adjacent to an empty needle and performs a loop knitting on one side of the weave to form an interlaced jacquard area, and the remaining needles perform a hook-and-loop knitting on the surface and bottom layers.

[0006] Furthermore, a tensile force is applied to the warp of the jacquard fabric to form a transparent jacquard area at the empty stitches in the non-interlaced jacquard area.

[0007] Furthermore, at least one weave of the surface layer is knitted with a 1-needle, 1-knit loop.

[0008] Furthermore, at least one needle weaves the corresponding stitch of an adjacent stitch on one side to form an interlaced jacquard area.

[0009] Furthermore, at least one weave of the surface layer is knitted with x needles and y loops, and the weave on one side of the weave is knitted with a spacing of z loops, where z is a positive integer.

[0010] Furthermore, the fineness of the yarn in the surface layer is greater than that of the yarn in the bottom layer.

[0011] Furthermore, the yarn of the surface layer is polyester lightweight composite yarn (DTY); the yarn of the bottom layer is room temperature cationic 110℃ heavy yarn (DTY).

[0012] Furthermore, the knitting process of the jacquard fabric is carried out on a double-sided transfer jacquard machine; cylinder needles and dial needles knit to form one row, and a total of n rows are knitted.

[0013] The outer layer is knitted with syringe needles, and the bottom layer is knitted with disc needles.

[0014] Furthermore, it also includes a finishing process for the jacquard fabric after the jacquard fabric is generated by the knitting process of the jacquard fabric; in the finishing process of the jacquard fabric, tension is applied in the warp direction of the jacquard fabric to form a transparent jacquard area in the non-interlaced jacquard area.

[0015] Furthermore, in the finishing process of the jacquard fabric, the yarns of the surface layer and the yarns of the bottom layer are dyed with different colors.

[0016] Unlike existing technologies, the above technical solution employs an x-needle y-blade knitting technique in at least one weave path on the surface layer. At least one needle in the weave path adjacent to the blank needle performs a tuck knitting on one side of the corresponding weave path, creating an interwoven jacquard area with slanted floats. Jacquard fabrics woven using this process can form slanted patterns on the surface layer, offering flexible designs and enriching the diversity of jacquard patterns. Furthermore, the fabric has a stable structure, is easy to weave, and offers breathability, making it suitable for clothing and footwear materials with a wide range of applications. Attached Figure Description

[0017] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram illustrating the weaving process of the weft-knitted jacquard fabric described in this invention.

[0018] Figure 2This is a schematic diagram illustrating the weaving process of the weft-knitted jacquard fabric described in this invention.

[0019] Figure 3 This is a simulation diagram of the interwoven jacquard area of ​​the jacquard fabric described in this invention;

[0020] Figure 4 This is a simulation diagram of the non-interlaced jacquard area of ​​the surface layer of the jacquard fabric described in this invention;

[0021] Figure 5 for Figure 4 A simulation diagram of the transparent jacquard area of ​​the surface layer after warp stretching;

[0022] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the surface structure of the jacquard fabric described in this invention after warp stretching.

[0023] Explanation of reference numerals in the attached figures:

[0024] 10. Double-layered three-dimensional area;

[0025] 20. Jacquard area with open stitches;

[0026] 201. Interwoven jacquard area;

[0027] 202. Transparent jacquard area. Detailed Implementation

[0028] To explain in detail the technical content, structural features, objectives, and effects of the technical solution, the following description is provided in conjunction with specific embodiments and accompanying drawings.

[0029] In this document, the term "embodiment" means that a specific feature, structure, or characteristic described in connection with an embodiment may be included in at least one embodiment of this application. The term "embodiment" appearing in various places throughout the specification does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, nor does it specifically limit its independence or connection with other embodiments. In principle, in this application, as long as there are no technical contradictions or conflicts, the technical features mentioned in each embodiment can be combined in any way to form corresponding implementable technical solutions.

[0030] Unless otherwise defined, the technical terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application pertains; the use of related terms herein is merely for the purpose of describing particular embodiments and is not intended to limit this application.

[0031] In the description of this application, the term "and / or" is used to describe the logical relationship between objects, indicating that three relationships can exist. For example, A and / or B means: A exists, B exists, and A and B exist simultaneously. Additionally, the character " / " in this document generally indicates that the preceding and following objects have an "or" logical relationship.

[0032] In this application, terms such as “first” and “second” are used only to distinguish one entity or operation from another, and do not necessarily require or imply any actual quantity, hierarchy or order relationship between these entities or operations.

[0033] Unless otherwise specified, the use of terms such as “comprising,” “including,” “having,” or other similar expressions in this application is intended to cover non-exclusive inclusion, which does not exclude the presence of additional elements in a process, method, or product that includes the stated elements, such that a process, method, or product that includes a list of elements may include not only those defined elements but also other elements not expressly listed, or elements inherent to such a process, method, or product.

[0034] As understood in the Examination Guidelines, in this application, expressions such as "greater than," "less than," and "exceeding" are understood to exclude the stated number; expressions such as "above," "below," and "within" are understood to include the stated number. Furthermore, in the description of the embodiments in this application, "multiple" means two or more (including two), and similar expressions related to "multiple" are also understood in this way, such as "multiple groups" and "multiple times," unless otherwise explicitly specified.

[0035] In the description of the embodiments of this application, the space-related expressions used, such as "center," "longitudinal," "lateral," "length," "width," "thickness," "upper," "lower," "front," "rear," "left," "right," "vertical," "horizontal," "vertical," "top," "bottom," "inner," "outer," "clockwise," "counterclockwise," "axial," "radial," and "circumferential," indicate the orientation or positional relationship based on the orientation or positional relationship shown in the specific embodiments or drawings. They are only for the purpose of describing the specific embodiments of this application or for the reader's understanding, and do not indicate or imply that the device or component referred to must have a specific position, a specific orientation, or be constructed or operated in a specific orientation. Therefore, they should not be construed as limitations on the embodiments of this application.

[0036] Unless otherwise expressly specified or limited, the terms "installation," "connection," "linking," "fixing," and "setting," as used in the description of the embodiments of this application, should be interpreted broadly. For example, "connection" can be a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral setting; it can be a mechanical connection, an electrical connection, or a communication connection; it can be a direct connection or an indirect connection through an intermediate medium; it can be the internal connection of two components or the interaction between two components. For those skilled in the art to which this application pertains, the specific meaning of the above terms in the embodiments of this application can be understood according to the specific circumstances.

[0037] See Figures 1 to 6 As shown, this invention provides a weft-knitted jacquard fabric weaving process, which employs x-needle y-blade knitting in at least one weave path on the surface layer. At least one needle in the weave path, adjacent to the blank needle, performs tuck knitting on one side of the corresponding weave path, creating an interwoven jacquard area with slanted floats. The jacquard fabric woven using this process can form slanted patterns on the surface layer, offering flexible designs and enriching the diversity of jacquard patterns. Furthermore, the fabric has a stable structure, is easy to weave, and provides breathability, making it suitable for clothing and footwear materials, with a wide range of applications.

[0038] The following is a detailed description of the weaving process of a weft-knitted jacquard fabric provided by an embodiment of the present invention. See also... Figure 1As shown, a weft-knitted jacquard fabric weaving process is described. The surface layer has at least one weave path that performs x-needle y-blade knitting, where x and y are positive integers. At least one needle in the weave path, adjacent to a blank needle, performs a tuck knitting on one side of the corresponding weave path to form an interlaced jacquard area. The remaining needles perform hook knitting on the surface and bottom layers. The aforementioned x-needle y-blade knitting on the surface layer means that the surface layer has at least one weave path that is a cyclic knitting process consisting of x consecutive weave rows and y consecutive weave rows of blank knitting, until all weave rows in the weave path are completed. If the cycle is repeated n times, the number of weave rows in the weave path is n*(x+y), meaning the weave path has n*x weave rows of weave rows and n*y weave rows of blank knitting. The weave row knitting includes both loop knitting and tuck knitting. In the knitting pattern, at least one needle adjacent to an empty needle performs a tuck knitting on one side of the corresponding knitting pattern to form an interlaced jacquard area. The remaining needles perform a hook-and-loop knitting on the top and bottom layers. Specifically, in the knitting of the n*x knitting rows of the pattern, at least one knitting row adjacent to n*y knitting rows performs a tuck knitting on one side of the corresponding knitting row to form an interlaced jacquard area. The remaining knitting rows perform a hook-and-loop knitting on the top and bottom layers, connecting the top and bottom layers. The corresponding weave pattern refers to the weave pattern located on either side of the weave pattern of the x needle y loop, without specifying which weave pattern. However, it should be noted that the corresponding weave pattern must be a loop weave. When loop weave is performed on the surface layer, a double-layer three-dimensional area 10 is formed. When the empty needle is performed, a jacquard area 20 with floating yarn is formed. The needles adjacent to the empty needles perform loop weave on one side of the corresponding weave pattern, so that the floating yarn of the empty needles (horizontal and vertical) is tilted due to the loop weave, forming an interwoven jacquard area 201 with tilted floating yarn.

[0039] See Figure 4 and Figure 5 As shown, to enrich the patterns of the jacquard fabric, tension is applied to the warp direction of the jacquard fabric, forming a transparent jacquard area 202 in the empty stitches of the non-interlaced jacquard area. The warp direction is parallel to the weave direction of the jacquard fabric, that is, parallel to each weave of the surface layer. Applying tension to the warp direction of the jacquard fabric means applying tension at both ends of the weave, widening the spacing between the surface layer rows, and thinning the weft loop density of the fabric. This ensures that the floats of the empty stitch jacquard area 20 cannot cover the underlying yarns, exposing the underlying yarns through the gaps in the floats, forming the transparent jacquard area 202. This process allows the jacquard fabric to form both interlaced jacquard areas 201 and interspersed transparent jacquard areas 202 on the surface layer, enriching the diversity of jacquard patterns.

[0040] In the context of the surface layer having at least one weave path performing x-needle y-knit, x and y can be positive integers such as 1, 2, or 3, meaning at least one weave path in the surface layer performs 1-needle 1-knit, 1-needle 2-knit, 1-needle 3-knit, or 2-needle 1-knit, etc. When y is larger, meaning there are more knitted needles, the resulting floats are longer. Therefore, the corresponding weave path on one side of the surface layer performing x-needle y-knit weave is tucked in, resulting in longer inclined floats. Consequently, the inclined texture of the interlaced jacquard area 201 of the woven jacquard fabric is more pronounced. When y is smaller, meaning there are fewer knitted needles, the resulting floats are shorter. Therefore, the corresponding weave path on one side of the surface layer performing x-needle y-knit weave is tucked in, resulting in shorter inclined floats. This makes the woven jacquard fabric structure more stable, less prone to float snagging, prevents the jacquard fabric from becoming loose, and avoids fabric instability and material property risks. When x is greater than 1, inclined floats are formed at the connection points between the x-needle and the knitted needle. The preferred surface layer has at least one row of 1-needle 1-space knitting, that is, when x=1 and y=1, when the knitting area of ​​the needle is knitted with a 1-space interval, inclined floats are formed on both sides of the knitting area, forming an interwoven jacquard area 201 with cross texture. The fabric structure is stable and the floats are not easy to snag.

[0041] At least one weave of the surface layer is knitted with an x-needle y-space pattern, and the weave on one side of the surface layer is knitted in a tuck pattern. The corresponding weave row of the aforementioned "one side of the surface layer" refers to any weave row located on one side of the x-needle y-space pattern, without specifying a particular weave row. It can be a weave row adjacent to the x-needle y-space pattern (e.g., if the x-needle y-space pattern is weave row 5, the adjacent weave rows could be weave rows 4, 6, etc.), or a weave row separated from it (e.g., if the x-needle y-space pattern is weave row 5, the separated weave rows could be weave rows 3, 2, 7, 8, etc.). The greater the interval between the x-needle y-space pattern and the weave row on one side, i.e., spanning multiple weave rows for tuck pattern knitting, the longer the slanted float formed when the corresponding weave row on one side of the surface layer is knitted in a tuck pattern, and the more pronounced the slanted texture of the interlaced jacquard area 201 of the resulting jacquard fabric. The smaller the interval between the x-needle y-space weave and the weave on one side (the smallest being the adjacent weave), the shorter the slanted float will be when the corresponding weave on one side is tucked together. The resulting jacquard fabric has a stable structure and is less prone to snagging the slanted float, preventing the jacquard fabric from becoming loose and avoiding instability and risks to the fabric's properties.

[0042] The surface layer has at least one weave path that performs x-needle y-blade knitting, and the weave path on one side of the surface layer performs tuck knitting at intervals of z, where z is a positive integer. The tuck knitting at intervals of z means that if the number of weave rows in the weave path is n*(x+y), that is, the weave path has n*x weave rows for needle knitting and n*y weave rows for blank needle knitting; during the n*x weave rows for needle knitting, tuck knitting at intervals of z is performed, and in the non-tuck knitting areas, hook-and-loop knitting is performed on the surface and bottom layers to connect them. During tuck knitting, inclined floats are formed to prevent the surface layer weave path from continuously performing tuck knitting on the corresponding weave row on one side, forming continuous multi-segment floats. Although the two sides of the continuous multi-segment floats are inclined floats, which can form an interwoven jacquard area 201 with an inclined texture, the resulting jacquard fabric structure has poor stability, the floats are prone to snagging, leading to loose jacquard fabric, causing instability and risks to the fabric's physical properties. When z=1, the above-mentioned 1-loop knitting interval means that in the n*x knitting row, 1-loop knitting intervals are performed. In the non-loop knitting areas, the top and bottom layers are knitted together in a loop, connecting the top and bottom layers. At this time, the jacquard area 20 of the empty needles only forms slanted floats, and at the same time forms an interwoven jacquard area 201 with cross texture, so that the knitted jacquard fabric has more cross texture (see Figure 3 (As shown).

[0043] The bottom layer can be knitted in any way. In some embodiments, the bottom layer can be knitted in full loops, meaning that each weave row of each stitch in the bottom layer is knitted in loops. In some embodiments, it can also be knitted in accordance with the top layer, meaning that each stitch in the bottom layer corresponds to a corresponding stitch in the top layer, using the same knitting process as the top layer. The key is to ensure that the yarns of the bottom layer do not interfere with the cross-weave pattern of the top layer while maintaining a stable and good jacquard fabric structure.

[0044] To ensure the cross-hatching pattern of the surface layer is more pronounced and the bottom layer yarns do not interfere with it, the surface layer yarns are preferably finer than the bottom layer yarns. This allows the surface layer yarns to completely cover the bottom layer yarns, making the woven bottom layer invisible and thus enhancing the visibility of the surface layer's slanted pattern. To better distinguish between the surface and bottom layers and increase the diversity of fabric design, the surface and bottom layer yarns can be made of different types of yarn, and they can be dyed different colors.

[0045] See Figure 6As shown, to better understand the weft-knitted jacquard fabric weave process of this invention, this invention provides an embodiment for completing the jacquard fabric weave. The knitting process of the jacquard fabric is performed on a double-sided transfer jacquard machine. The knitting process of the jacquard fabric consists of two loop-forming systems forming one knitting row, for a total of four knitting rows. The preset knitting process is input into the computer software, and the raw materials are fed into the corresponding yarn paths according to the computer-generated graphics and color scheme. The surface layer is knitted using cylinder needles, and the bottom layer is knitted using disc needles.

[0046] First yarn: White semi-dull polyester lightweight mesh composite yarn DTY

[0047] Second yarn: White round, lustrous, room-temperature cationic 110℃ heavy-duty DTY

[0048] One of the knitting systems uses a needle to knit the first yarn to form the surface layer, see [link / reference]. Figure 1 and Figure 2 As shown, the first row of the surface layer is knitted with 1 stitch and 1 loop, the second row is knitted with 1 stitch and 1 loop, and the third and fourth rows are knitted with 1 stitch and 1 loop. The bottom layer is knitted with full stitches in rounds. The first row of the surface layer is knitted with 1 loop at intervals in the second row of the surface layer, and the second row of the surface layer is knitted with 1 loop at intervals in the third row of the surface layer. The non-knitted knitting of the first and second rows is knitted in rounds by hooking between the surface layer and the bottom layer. The third and fourth rows of the surface layer are not knitted in rounds, but knitted in rounds by hooking between the surface layer and the bottom layer.

[0049] After the knitting process is completed, the jacquard fabric is obtained. The jacquard fabric is then sent to the finishing process, where tension is applied along the warp direction. This prevents the floats in the third and fourth weaves of the surface layer from covering the corresponding underlay yarns, thus exposing the underlay yarns through the gaps between the floats. Then, through dyeing, white round, bright, room-temperature cationic 110℃ heavy-net DTY is dyed dark, while white semi-dull polyester light-net composite yarn DTY is dyed light. Therefore, the interwoven jacquard area 201 of the double-layer three-dimensional area 10 and the open-needle jacquard area 20 of the surface layer is light-colored, while the bottom gap of the open-needle jacquard area 20, revealing the underlay jacquard area 202, is dark-colored, creating a textured pattern of light and dark shades on the surface layer.

[0050] It should be noted that although the above embodiments have been described herein, this does not limit the scope of patent protection of the present invention. Therefore, any changes and modifications made to the embodiments described herein based on the innovative concept of the present invention, or equivalent structural or procedural transformations made using the content of the present invention's specification and drawings, directly or indirectly applying the above technical solutions to other related technical fields, are all included within the scope of patent protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A weaving process for a weft-knitted jacquard fabric, wherein the jacquard fabric comprises a face layer and a back layer, characterized in that, The surface layer has at least one weave path with x needles and y empty stitches, where x and y are positive integers; at least one needle in the weave path adjacent to the empty needle performs a looping operation on the corresponding weave path on the warp side of the weave path, so that the float generated by the empty needle is tilted, forming an interlaced jacquard area; the remaining needles perform a hook-and-loop weave on the surface layer and the bottom layer to connect the surface layer and the bottom layer; tension is applied to the warp direction of the jacquard fabric to form a transparent jacquard area at the empty needles in the non-interlaced jacquard area.

2. The weaving process of the weft-knitted jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The surface layer has at least one weave path with 1 stitch and 1 loop.

3. The weaving process of the weft-knitted jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The fineness of the yarn in the surface layer is greater than that of the yarn in the bottom layer.

4. The weaving process of the weft-knitted jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn of the surface layer is polyester lightweight composite yarn (DTY); the yarn of the bottom layer is room temperature cationic 110℃ heavy yarn (DTY).

5. The weaving process of the weft-knitted jacquard fabric according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that, The knitting process of the jacquard fabric is carried out on a double-sided transfer jacquard machine; the cylinder needles and the dial needles knit to form one row, and a total of n rows are knitted, where n is a positive integer; The outer layer is knitted with syringe needles, and the bottom layer is knitted with disc needles.

6. The weaving process of the weft-knitted jacquard fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that, Applying tension to the warp of the jacquard fabric to form a transparent jacquard area in the unstitched areas of the non-interlaced jacquard area is completed during the finishing process of the jacquard fabric.

7. The weaving process of the weft-knitted jacquard fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that, In the finishing process of the jacquard fabric, the yarns of the surface layer and the yarns of the bottom layer are dyed with different colors.

Citation Information

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