Engineered nonwoven fabrics and manufacturing methods

Abstract

A method for producing an engineered fabric (200) includes: placing a yarn-wound clamp (70) on the upper surface of a substrate (216); selectively printing or extruding a bonding material (54) across a plurality of arranged yarn strands (52); solidifying the bonding material (54) to bond adjacent yarn strands of the plurality of arranged yarn strands together to form a connected plurality of arranged yarn strands (52); and removing the connected plurality of arranged yarn strands (52) from the substrate (216) and the frame (70).

Description

[0001] Cross-references to related applications

[0002] This disclosure claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent No. 63 / 243,960, filed September 14, 2021, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety and is used for all the contents of this disclosure. Technical Field

[0003] This disclosure generally relates to engineered fabrics and other yarn-based composite structures. More specifically, aspects of this disclosure relate to systems, methods, and apparatus for the automated manufacture of engineered fabrics for footwear and apparel. Background Technology

[0004] In typical garment production, discrete patterns / pieces of fabric are cut from pre-produced rolls of fabric and then sewn together to form the final product. To maintain its integrity as a sheet, the rolled fabric must include its own inherent structure, typically in the form of weave or knit. In many cases, this structure is only required to provide the integrity of the fabric and has no functional purpose in the finished product.

[0005] In certain items of functional apparel (e.g., footwear, sports bras, compression gear (e.g., shorts, trousers, shirts, gaiters), joint braces (e.g., ankle, knee, wrist, elbow), and certain wearable accessories), the performance of the article depends on certain strengths and / or elasticities in specific directions. For example, compression gaiters for the legs may require specific circumferential elasticity to provide optimal compression, but may also require specific longitudinal elasticity across the front of the knee to allow for joint flexion. Footwear involves more complex movements and requires lateral constraints to facilitate stability in the footbed, pronation / supination, and dorsiflexion during typical gait. In many cases, the inherent structural arrangement of pre-produced / rolled fabrics is poor and fails to meet the functional requirements of the article. Therefore, auxiliary structures (e.g., reinforcing cables or auxiliary sections of the fabric) must be applied, which may lead to increased material use / waste (i.e., additional die-cut patterns and associated waste) and increased weight of the final article. Attached Figure Description

[0006] Figure 1 This is a schematic side profile of a footwear article having an upper that incorporates a polymer-bonded nonwoven engineered fabric.

[0007] Figure 2 The illustration schematically depicts the side profile of a footwear article with an upper, which incorporates an embodiment of a polymer-bonded nonwoven engineered fabric.

[0008] Figure 3The illustration schematically depicts a polymer-bonded nonwoven engineered fabric configured to receive two inclined tensile loads at an angle.

[0009] Figure 4 A pin clamp / fixing device for producing multiple linearly extended yarn strands is schematically illustrated.

[0010] Figure 5 The illustration schematically depicts the use of, for example, Figure 4 An embodiment of an automated winding machine that produces multiple yarn strands on a pin-type clamp is shown.

[0011] Figure 6 The illustration shows the relationship with Figure 5 The winding head used in the system.

[0012] Figure 7 The illustration schematically depicts the use of, for example, Figure 4 An embodiment of an automated winding machine that produces multiple yarn strands on a pin-type clamp is shown.

[0013] Figure 8 A bottom perspective view of a winding head with a rotatable array of conduits is schematically illustrated.

[0014] Figure 9 An embodiment of a pin-type clamp for producing engineered fabrics to form the upper of footwear articles is illustrated schematically.

[0015] Figure 10 This schematic diagram illustrates what can be done in a similar manner. Figure 9 An embodiment of the yarn strand winding formed on the pin clamp illustrated.

[0016] Figure 11 This is a schematic exploded view of a stack of pin-type clamps used to form multi-layer engineered fabrics.

[0017] Figure 12 This is a schematic diagram of a system for printing polymers onto multiple yarn strands.

[0018] Figure 13 This is a schematic flowchart of a method for forming engineered fabrics.

[0019] Figure 14 This is a schematic perspective view of a deposition molding system that applies a flowable polymer across multiple yarn strands.

[0020] Figure 15 This is a schematic diagram of a vector-based path that can be used to guide the deposition molding printhead to apply flowable polymer.

[0021] Figure 16This is a schematic illustration of a polymer printed on a substrate before being covered by a clamp wound with yarn strands.

[0022] Figure 17 It is a schematic illustration of a multi-layered yarn strand with an applied polymer encapsulation and a longitudinally translational core.

[0023] Figure 18A It is a schematic plan view of a component of the shoe upper with multiple yarn strands extending across the foot area.

[0024] Figure 18B It is partly caused by Figure 18A A schematic side view of a footwear product formed by the upper components.

[0025] Figure 19 This is a schematic illustration of an engineered fabric that features a single, polymer-formed structure spanning multiple yarn strands.

[0026] Figure 20 This is a schematic perspective view of a footwear product having an additionally applied polymer logo printed across multiple yarn strands.

[0027] Figure 21 This is a schematic magnified view of the ankle opening of a footwear product with an applied polymer that has elasticity due to a serrated design.

[0028] Figure 22A This is a schematic plan view of the upper components of a shoe with a sole component that has polymer adhesion.

[0029] Figure 22B It is partly caused by Figure 22A A schematic side view of a footwear product formed by the upper components.

[0030] This disclosure can be modified and substituted in various ways, and some representative embodiments have been illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings and will be described in detail below. However, it should be understood that the novel aspects of this disclosure are not limited to the specific forms illustrated in the drawings listed above. Rather, this disclosure is intended to cover all modifications, equivalents, combinations, sub-combinations, arrangements, groupings, and substitutions that fall within the scope of this disclosure as covered by the appended claims. Detailed Implementation

[0031] This disclosure broadly relates to composite structures of nonwoven engineered fabrics and / or similar fabrics, methods for producing composite structures of nonwoven engineered fabrics and / or similar fabrics, and the integration and use of such fabrics in constructing garment articles (including, but not limited to, functional garment articles). As used herein, the term "functional garment" is intended to include any garment or footwear article having a use or purpose other than simple aesthetic or body coverage. Examples of functional garments may include footwear articles, bras (e.g., sports bras), compression gear (e.g., shorts, trousers, shirts, sleeves), joint braces (e.g., ankle, knee, wrist, elbow) and / or accessories or wearable devices (e.g., backpacks, bags, watch straps).

[0032] The present invention details a novel way of constructing fabrics that reduces material waste while allowing the fabric's inherent structure to meet the specific functional requirements of the final product. In doing so, apparel / footwear designers have greater design freedom to specify the directional elasticity and strength of the fabric and the final product without adding weight or auxiliary reinforcement structures.

[0033] Typically, the designs / techniques of this invention result in a new class of application-specific, fabric-like composite structures engineered to provide specific dimensions of material properties to suit the end use of the fabric. For the purposes of this disclosure, these composite structures will be broadly referred to as "engineered fabrics." Such engineered fabrics can have a material structure comprising multiple oriented and non-interlocking yarn strands extending across a corresponding pattern / piece of fabric and selectively secured together by applying a bonding material overlying it. By forming engineered fabrics in this manner, the yarn strands can be aligned with the direction of the intended load path or the intended tensile load in the final article. Furthermore, the elasticity of each yarn strand can be selected to control the dynamic response of the engineered fabric to applied loads during use.

[0034] This type of design differs from and is distinct from traditional fabrics, which are typically mass-produced and often utilize generic or repetitive yarn structures (i.e., application-independent). Such traditional fabrics typically derive their material structure from the physical bonding or interlocking of adjacent yarn strands (e.g., through weaving, looping, knitting, knotting, etc.). Since the patterns / fabric pieces used to construct articles are usually cut from a single roll of generally constructed fabric, designers have little control over or ability to alter the local material properties of the patterns / fabric pieces without incorporating additional reinforcing structures. Therefore, by providing designers with specific control over material parameters across the fabric piece, the engineered fabrics of this disclosure can produce more optimized structures that are lighter and require less additional reinforcement than traditional fabric materials.

[0035] While these techniques offer greater design freedom to control / engineer the material response of the final fabric pieces, they also provide substantial environmental benefits. For example, by producing optimally designed fabrics, the total material required in the construction may be less. Additionally, because each piece is made in an additive manner, there is also relatively less waste or surplus material associated with manufacturing.

[0036] While these engineered fabrics can be used with any functional clothing, they find specific applications in footwear construction because footwear design is a unique blend of form and function with many competing design considerations. More specifically, shoes must be stiff enough to provide proper restraint, yet flexible enough to allow for natural foot movement and flexion. In this context, engineered fabrics can achieve specific and intentional directional strength at the lowest possible weight or fiber density by selecting and orienting yarn strands with appropriate elasticity.

[0037] The composite structures and engineered fabrics disclosed herein comprise multiple yarn strands bonded together by bonding materials or otherwise interconnected. As used herein, the term "yarn" should be understood to mean a long or substantially continuous strand of fiber or filament suitable for knitting, weaving, crocheting, braiding, or otherwise winding with other yarns or sections of the same yarn, or for sewing including embroidery. Types of yarns include continuous filament yarns, examples of which include monofilament yarns (composed of a single continuous filament) and multifilament yarns (composed of multiple flat or textured filaments, which are typically twisted or air-entangled with each other). Staple fiber yarns are another type of yarn composed of multiple fixed-length fibers (such as cotton or wool fibers) or cut fibers or filaments that are entangled with each other during the spinning process. Composite yarns are yet another type of yarn that may consist of cord or cable yarns, or may consist of two or more single yarn strands combined to form a ply yarn. Natural fibers or filaments can be used, including naturally occurring cellulose fibers (such as cotton or flax), naturally occurring protein-based fibers or filaments (such as wool or silk), and naturally occurring mineral-based materials (such as asbestos). Synthetic fibers or filaments can be used, including those made from inorganic materials (such as glass or metal); fibers or filaments made from recycled natural polymers, including cellulose-based polymers and protein-based polymers; synthetic carbon fibers or filaments; and synthetic fibers or filaments made from synthetic polymers. In many cases, the synthetic polymer is a thermoplastic, including thermoplastic elastomers, although thermosetting plastics, such as elastic fibers, can also be used. Synthetic polymers commonly used to make fibers or filaments include polyesters (such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET)), polyamides (such as nylon-6, nylon 6,6, and nylon-11), polyolefins (such as propylene homopolymers and copolymers, and ethylene homopolymers and copolymers), and polyacetates (such as cellulose acetate fibers). Polyurethanes, such as thermoplastic polyurethanes, can also be used to make fibers or filaments. These yarns may include or be composed of yarns comprising natural fibers or filaments, synthetic fibers or filaments, or combinations of natural and synthetic fibers or filaments, such as staple yarns comprising blends of cotton and polyester fibers. These yarns may also include or be composed of multifilament yarns comprising polyester or polyamide filaments, such as commercially available embroidery threads.

[0038] Typically, industrial knitting machines and other industrial-scale manufacturing processes require yarns with a minimum toughness of about 1.5 g / denier. Toughness is the amount of force required to break a yarn divided by the yarn's linear mass density, and is determined by subjecting a yarn sample to a known amount of force until the sample breaks, for example, using a strain gauge pressure element. Lower toughness yarns have a toughness ranging from about 2.5 to about 4 g / denier, while medium toughness yarns have a toughness ranging from about 5 to about 10 g / denier. Yarns with a toughness greater than about 11 g / denier are considered high toughness yarns. High toughness yarns may comprise fibers or filaments comprising polymers such as aramids and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE). The yarns used according to this disclosure may be low toughness yarns, medium toughness yarns, high toughness yarns, or any combination thereof. In some instances, these ply yarns may comprise or consist of staple fiber yarns, monofilament yarns, or multifilament yarns with a tenacity of at least 1.5 g / denier or at least 2.5 g / denier. In other instances, these ply yarns may comprise or consist of multifilament yarns with a tenacity of at least 11 g / denier.

[0039] The bonding material used to bind yarn strands together is a polymeric material comprising one or more polymers. All polymers present in the bonding material (i.e., all one or more polymers) are referred to as the polymeric component of the bonding material. The bonding material may also include one or more optional non-polymeric components, referred to as the non-polymeric component of the bonding material. Examples of non-polymeric components include fillers, processing aids, anti-yellowing additives, plasticizers, pigments, and any combination thereof. The bonding material may be a thermoplastic bonding material comprising one or more thermoplastic polymers. The bonding material may be an elastomeric bonding material comprising one or more elastomeric polymers. An elastomer can be defined as a material having an elongation at break greater than 100%, greater than 200%, or greater than 400% as measured using ASTM D-412-98 at 25 degrees Celsius. Elastomeric bonding materials may have an elongation at break greater than 100%, greater than 200%, or greater than 400% as measured using ASTM D-412-98 at 25 degrees Celsius. The bonding material may be a thermoplastic elastomeric bonding material comprising one or more thermoplastic elastomers. At the point where the binder is applied to the yarn strands, it can be thermoplastic and can remain thermoplastic after solidification. In one example, before application to the yarn strands, the binder may include prepolymers, such as two prepolymers that react with each other in a polymerization reaction and solidify into a solid binder (typically a thermosetting solid binder) after application to the yarn strands. In another example, at the point where the binder is applied to the yarn strands, it may be thermoplastic and can solidify into a thermosetting binder (e.g., if a crosslinking reaction is initiated during a printing or extrusion step or during a solidification step), or, after application and solidification, the solid thermoplastic binder may crosslink to form a thermosetting binder (e.g., if the solid binder is crosslinked using electron beam radiation, or if a reactive solid binder is solidified by exposure to heat or moisture). In such examples, the binder may also include a polymerization initiator or a crosslinking agent when applied to the yarn strands.

[0040] One or more polymers of the binding material (i.e., the polymeric component of the binding material) may include one or more thermoplastic elastomers (TPEs) or are substantially composed of them, including TPEs selected from thermoplastic polyurethane elastomers, thermoplastic polyester elastomers, and thermoplastic styrene-ethylene / butene-styrene (SEBS) block copolymer elastomers. One or more polymers of the binding material may include one or more crosslinked elastomers (such as polybutadiene or polyisoprene, or polysilane or polysiloxane) or are substantially composed of them. One or more polymers of the binding material may include thermoplastic vulcanizates (TPVs) or are substantially composed of them, the TPV comprising a crosslinked elastomer phase distributed in a continuous thermoplastic phase. One or more polymers of the binding material may include polymers selected from polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyethers, vinyl polymers, polyolefins, acetate polymers, acrylate or methacrylate polymers, polystyrene, polysilanes, polysiloxanes, polycarbonates, and any combination thereof or are substantially composed of them, the polymer including homopolymers and copolymers thereof. One or more polymers of the binding material may include polyurethane or are substantially composed of polyurethane, including polyurethanes selected from elastomeric polyurethanes, thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPUs), elastomeric TPUs, and combinations thereof. Thermoplastic elastomer TPUs may include polyurethane copolymers or are substantially composed of polyurethane copolymers (such as polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane or combinations thereof). One or more polymers of the binding material may include polyurea or are substantially composed of polyurea. One or more polymers of the binding material may include polyamide homopolymers or polyamide copolymers (including polyether block polyamide (PEBA) copolymers) or are substantially composed of the latter. One or more polymers of the binding material may include ethylene copolymers or are substantially composed of ethylene copolymers (such as ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) or ethylene-vinyl alcohol (EVOH)). One or more polymers of the binding material may include polyolefin homopolymers or copolymers (such as polypropylene or polyethylene homopolymers, or copolymers of propylene or ethylene), or are substantially composed of the latter. One or more polymers of the binding material may include styrene copolymers (such as poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) (SBS)) or styrene-ethylene / butene-styrene (SEBS) block copolymers, or are substantially composed of the latter. The polymer may include one or more thermoplastic polymers or consist substantially of one or more thermoplastic polymers selected from the group consisting of polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes, polyolefins, their respective homopolymers and copolymers, and combinations thereof.

[0041] While a single bonding material can be used as described herein, a first bonding material and a second bonding material can also be used. The first and second bonding materials can be used to bond different regions of a single group of yarn strands, or to bond different layers of yarn strands, such as a first layer and a second layer of yarn strands. The polymer components of both the first and second bonding polymers can include one or more co-polymers, such as one or more co-polymers of TPE. The polymer components of the first and second bonding materials can consist of the same polymers but in different proportions. Alternatively, the polymer components of both materials can consist of the same polymers in the same proportions. The first and second bonding materials can differ from each other only in the type or concentration of pigments present.

[0042] Referring now to the accompanying drawings, in which the same reference numerals denote the same features in several views. Figure 1 and Figure 2 Two embodiments of footwear article 10 utilizing engineered fabrics in its construction are schematically illustrated. While the footwear article is illustrated as athletic shoes or “sneakers” for discussion, it should be understood that this is merely one example application of the engineered fabrics currently disclosed. However, in other applications, the fabrics of the present invention can be incorporated into other aspects of this or other types of footwear, and / or can be incorporated into any logically related articles of functional clothing or other types of consumer goods. As used herein, the terms “shoe” and “footwear” (including arrangements thereof) are used interchangeably and synonymously to refer to any suitable type of clothing worn on the human foot. Finally, the features presented in the figures are not necessarily to scale and are provided for illustrative purposes only. Therefore, the specific and relative dimensions shown in the figures should not be construed as limiting.

[0043] Representative footwear product 10 (generally also referred to as shoe 10) in Figures 1 to 2The shoe 10 is typically depicted as a two-part structure consisting primarily of a foot-receiving upper 12 mounted on top of a sole structure 14 underneath. For ease of reference, the shoe 10 can be divided into three anatomical regions: the forefoot region 16, the midfoot region 18, and the heel region 20. The shoe 10 can also be divided along a vertical plane into a lateral region 22—the distal half of the shoe 10 furthest from the sagittal plane of the human body—and a medial region 24—the proximal half of the shoe 10 closest to the sagittal plane of the human body. According to accepted anatomical classification, the forefoot region 16 is located at the front of the shoe 10 and generally corresponds to the phalanges (toes), metatarsals, and any interconnecting joints. The midfoot region 18 is located between the forefoot region 16 and the heel region 20 and generally corresponds to the cuneiform, navicular, and cuboid bones (i.e., the arch region of the foot). Conversely, the heel region 20 is located at the rear of the shoe 10 and generally corresponds to the talus (ankle) and calcaneus (heel). The outer section 20 and the inner section 22 of the footwear 10 extend through all three anatomical sections 16, 18, and 20, and each corresponds to a corresponding lateral side of the shoe 10. Although in Figures 1 to 2 Only a single shoe 10 for the user's right foot is shown, but a mirror image, substantially the same counterpart, for the user's left foot can be provided. It will be appreciated that the shape, size, material composition, and manufacturing method of the shoe 10 can be changed individually or collectively to practically adapt to any conventional or unconventional footwear application.

[0044] Continue to refer to Figures 1 to 2 The upper 12 is depicted as having a shell-like structure for enclosing the human foot within an internal cavity 26. As illustrated, the upper 12 typically includes an ankle opening 28 that allows the wearer's foot into the internal cavity 26. Figure 2 In the illustrated embodiment, the throat 30 extends from the ankle opening 28 toward the forefoot area 16 and allows the upper to open to facilitate entry / exit from the cavity 26. The forefoot portion 32 is typically located in front of the throat 30 and / or in the portion of the upper that covers the metatarsal bones of the foot. Continuing to refer to... Figure 2 Closure 34 (e.g., shoelaces, straps, buckles or other commercially available mechanisms) may extend laterally across throat 30 (i.e., in the medial-lateral direction) and may be used to modify the circumference of upper 12 to more securely hold the foot inside shoe 10, and to facilitate foot entry into and exit from upper 12.

[0045] The sole structure 14 is rigidly attached to the upper 12, such that the sole structure 14 extends between the upper 12 and the support surface on which the user stands. In effect, the sole structure 14 serves as an intermediate support platform separating and protecting the lower side of the user's foot from the ground. In addition to attenuating ground reaction forces and providing cushioning for the foot, the sole structure 14 provides traction friction, imparts stability, and helps limit various foot movements, such as unintentional pronation and supination. In some embodiments, the sole structure 14 may be attached to the upper 12, for example, by a bonding agent or other typical bonding device. When joined together and viewed from an external perspective, the line where the upper 12 and the sole structure 14 intersect may be referred to as the interlocking line 36.

[0046] Typically, the purpose of the upper 12 is to properly restrain the wearer's foot, provide sufficient lateral stability, and allow certain foot flexion in a minimally restrictive manner. In other words, the upper's task is to maintain the sole structure in a stable position relative to the wearer's foot (i.e., minimize any relative translation), while providing lateral support to prevent the wearer's foot from rolling off the sole structure 14, and providing longitudinal elasticity to allow normal dorsiflexion of the foot throughout a typical gait. As will be discussed below, these seemingly competing benefits of stability and flexibility have been found to be most effectively addressed by using anisotropic fabrics with specially designed and orientation-dependent material properties.

[0047] exist Figures 1 to 2 In each of these, illustration A is provided to better illustrate the construction of the engineered fabric 50 used to form a portion of the upper 12. As will be discussed in more detail below, one aspect of this disclosure relates to a nonwoven engineered fabric 50 having one or more orientation-dependent material properties. Such engineered fabric 50 may comprise a plurality of aligned and spaced-apart yarn strands (in Figures 1 to 2 In total, at 52 locations, these yarn strands are linked together with the bonding material 54 covering them to form a composite engineered fabric structure.

[0048] In this configuration, although certain yarn strands 52 may overlap with other yarn strands throughout the fabric, they are not interconnected with those overlapping yarn strands except through the bonding material 54. In many embodiments, the bonding material 54 may be deposited periodically across the yarn strands 52, such that for any given yarn strand, there are portions or points not covered by the bonding material 54 (i.e., “unbonded portions”) and other portions or points contacted by the bonding material 54 (i.e., “bonded portions”). As generally shown, unbonded portions and bonded portions may alternate along the length of any given yarn strand 52. In some configurations, such as Figure 2As shown, the bonding material can follow a continuous bonding material trace path that overlaps or intersects with multiple yarn strands 52. Similarly, for any given yarn strand 52, multiple bonding material trace paths can cover or cross the yarn strand 52 to form multiple bonding portions.

[0049] like Figures 1 to 2 As further illustrated, the total set of yarn strands 52 extending across the engineered fabric 50 may include various subsets of the yarn strands, wherein within a given subset of the yarn strands, the corresponding yarn strands 52 of that subset are aligned with each other (either in a parallel or substantially parallel manner, or at an angle to each other, while originating from a common point).

[0050] Figure 3 An embodiment of an engineered fabric 50 is schematically illustrated, designed to accommodate two tensile loads 56A, 56B with different orientations while minimizing the shear loads borne. To achieve this, the yarns forming the fabric are carefully oriented such that at least a portion of the yarns is parallel to each intended load 56A, 56B. More specifically, the engineered fabric 50 has a first subset 52A of yarns oriented parallel to the first intended tensile load 56A and a second subset 52B of yarns oriented parallel to the second intended tensile load 56B. As used herein, the orientation of the yarns can be defined by the longitudinal axis of the yarns. Because the yarns are placed individually and / or collectively (e.g., by winding and / or layering), there are few limitations on the relative orientation and position of the yarns within the engineered fabric. For example, although Figure 3 The illustration depicts a bidirectional configuration accommodating two tensile loads; however, in other configurations, engineered fabrics may include subsets of yarn strands extending parallel to three, four, five, or even more different directions to accommodate the same number of tensile loads with different orientations. In many embodiments, yarn strands 52 may intersect / overlap with other yarn strands 52 at various angles (when viewed from a perspective perpendicular to the fabric surface), including tilt angles as shown (which is typically not possible in woven fabrics). Furthermore, the material strength, elasticity, or yarn toughness within each subset 52A, 52B can be independently selected based on the design goals of the finished article / fabric and does not need to be uniform even across the fabric.

[0051] winding

[0052] Figure 4The illustration generally depicts a single layer 60 or a subset of yarn strands 52 of engineered fabric 50 prior to securing the strands together. In the illustrated embodiment, the yarn strands 52 may all be substantially coplanar, and each constituent strand may extend linearly between two points provided around a perimeter 62 of the workspace. In some embodiments, the workspace may be defined as the interior or central region 64 of a workpiece frame (i.e., “clamp 70”) having a plurality of retaining features 68 (pins, hooks, teeth) provided along the outer perimeter 62 or at other locations within the workspace. In the illustrated embodiment, clamp 70 is a pin clamp, wherein the retaining features 68 are upright pins (also referenced by reference numeral 68) extending substantially orthogonal to the central region 64 of clamp 70, or even slightly angled away from the central region 64 of clamp 70. In other embodiments, the clamp may be a toothed clamp having a plurality of teeth extending outward (in the plane) from the central region 64. When yarn strand 52 is produced, one or more continuous lengths of yarn can be wrapped or wound around retaining feature 68 and across the central region of clamp 70. In doing so, some or all of the yarn strands can be integrated with each other during the winding process. For clarity, as used herein, a "yarn strand" is a discrete linear segment of yarn that extends across at least a portion of the working space or central region 64 of clamp 70 and between two opposing retaining features. Due to the winding process, multiple yarn strands can be integrated with each other as a single continuous length segment or portion of the yarn.

[0053] Figures 5 to 8 An embodiment of a system 80 for automatically winding one or more continuous lengths of yarn 82 around a plurality of retaining features 68 / pins provided on a clamp 70 to form a plurality of yarn strands 52 is schematically illustrated. As generally shown, the system 80 utilizes a movable winding guide or head 84 (in Figures 6 to 8 (Best shown in the diagram) the yarn 82 is controllably guided across the central region of the clamp and around the upright pin 68. For more precise control over the placement of the yarn 82, the winding head 84 may include one or more guide tubes 86 through which the yarn 82 can pass. The guide tubes 86 may be fixedly or movably connected to the head 84 and may extend into the plane of the workspace during operation. The yarn 82 can be wound via a bobbin or spool 88 (e.g., ...). Figure 5The yarn is supplied (as shown) and can be tensioned by a suitable tensioning device. In some embodiments, the tensioning device may include a brake or clamp that limits the rate at which the yarn can be supplied through the winding head 84. In other embodiments, the tensioning device may be a spring or other torque control device that acts on the spool to control or prevent the yarn from unwinding from the spool 88. The tensioning device may be operated actively or passively and may act directly on the yarn or on the spool 88. Examples of active tensioners may include one or more electronically controlled clamps, brakes, or automatic yarn feeders that can controllably prevent or controllably feed the yarn to / through the head 84. In contrast, passive tensioners may lack any direct control capability and may instead include one or more friction elements (loops, mechanical contacts, etc.) that simply prevent the yarn from unwinding or passing through the winding head 84 without constraint.

[0054] In some embodiments, when a continuous length of yarn is wound around the holding feature 68, the tensioning device can be operated to control the residual tension or strain in each yarn strand. In some embodiments, a first plurality of yarn strands can be pulled across the workspace such that they maintain a first amount of winding strain / tension, while a second plurality of yarn strands can be pulled across the workspace such that they maintain a second amount of winding strain / tension, which is different from the first amount of strain / tension. In other embodiments, each yarn strand can be wound with a similar amount of strain / tension; however, the modulus of the first plurality of yarn strands can be different from the modulus of the second plurality of yarn strands. In this way, some strands can be stretched more elastically during the winding process and may tend to return to a less stretched state once removed from the clamp 70. In engineered fabrics utilizing this multimodal / variable strain yarn structure, once removed from the clamp, yarn strands with greater strain can cause yarn strands with less strain to contract (e.g., coil or crimp). In this way, once stretched in the final article, the higher modulus strands can be used as a locking structure that can provide a segmented, smooth stress / strain response. In other words, within the final article, the lower modulus strands can be allowed to stretch by a predetermined amount before the higher modulus strands become taut and bonded to stiffen the fabric or "lock" the fabric to prevent further stretching (i.e., or greatly reduce the rate at which it can stretch).

[0055] The winding head 84 can be moved in at least two dimensions within the entire central region 64 of the clamp 70 via a suitable moving mechanism 90. This moving mechanism 90 may include one or more servo motors, linear and rotary transducers, pneumatic actuators, hydraulic actuators, or any other logically applicable actuation mechanism. In one embodiment, the moving mechanism 90 may be implemented as, for example, a carriage 92 that is controllably movable in two dimensions on a suitable support track 94 or platform. In other embodiments, the moving mechanism 90 may include a multi-degree-of-freedom robotic arm and / or workpiece manipulator to operatively control the winding of yarn around a three-dimensional object (e.g., a shoe last).

[0056] Continue to refer to Figure 5 The movement mechanism 90, used to control the positioning of the winding head 84 throughout the workspace / central area 64, can operate in the direction of a suitable motion controller 100. The motion controller 100 may include any desired power electronic circuitry, control circuitry, processing power, and processor-executable code, which may be required to operatively control the movement of the winding head 84 via one or more actuators 96 included in the movement mechanism 90. The motion controller 100 may also include logic circuitry, application-specific integrated circuits (ASICs), electronic circuitry, a central processing unit (e.g., a microprocessor), input / output circuitry and devices, appropriate signal conditioning and buffering circuitry, and other components that provide the described functionality. The motion controller 100 can communicate with associated memory 102 and storage devices (e.g., read-only memory, programmable read-only memory, random access memory, hard disk drive, physical memory, etc.), whether resident, remote, or a combination of both, which are operable to store processor-executable software, firmware, modules, and routines that, when executed by the motion controller 100, are used to guide the operation of the motion mechanism 90.

[0057] Figures 6 to 8 An embodiment of the winding head 84 is better illustrated, which can simultaneously pull multiple separate strands 52 of yarn across the workspace / center area 64. As can be understood, immediately winding multiple strands can increase overall winding speed and efficiency, which can allow for greater production volumes and lower associated energy usage. Multi-strand winding can also achieve unique visual appearances, such as by using multiple different colors in an array. Similarly, multiple strands, each with different colors or elasticity, can be fed individually to provide a unique appearance. Figure 6 As shown, in some configurations, the winding head can simultaneously pull each of multiple yarns (82a, 82b, 82c, 82d, 82e) around a different corresponding one of multiple upright pins (110a, 110b, 110c, 110d, 110e). Figure 7 In general, for some applications, the winding head 84 can alternatively pull each of a plurality of yarns (82a, 82b, 82c, 82d) from different corresponding retaining members along the periphery of the clamp 70 to a single upright pin 112 provided in the central portion of the clamp 70 / around the single upright pin 112. By winding the plurality of yarns around the single pin 112, the system can, for example, create dynamic eyelets or attachment points that can be in structural communication with multiple points along the periphery and across a wider area of ​​the fabric.

[0058] In some embodiments, such as Figure 8 As schematically shown, the winding head 84 may include a rotatable driver 114 operable to change the collective alignment of a plurality of guide tubes 86 on and / or within the working space 64. Such a driver 114 may include, for example, a stepper motor controllable to rotate a geared guide tube array 116. In some embodiments, the rotatable driver 114 may enable the guide tube array to intersect with a peripheral retaining member / pin at a predetermined angle (e.g., a different absolute orientation of the guide tubes when wrapping around a pin in the forefoot / forefoot tip compared to a pin on the outer sidewall). By changing the orientation of the guide tube array relative to the collective orientation of the surrounded pin, the presented relative spacing of the guide tubes can be altered to achieve closer yarn strand spacing.

[0059] Although Figures 5 to 7 The diagram roughly illustrates yarn strands formed across square / rectangular pin clamps, but by designing the clamps and / or pin positions to be close to, for example... Figure 9 The final shape of the fabric component shown can further reduce material waste. (See figure.) Figure 9 The clamp 70 can be used to produce substantially flat / planar finished yarn structures and / or engineered fabrics, which can be combined with other components to form similar to Figure 2 The illustration shows the three-dimensional upper of the shoe. (Example:) Figure 9As generally illustrated, in some embodiments, the central region 64 of the clamp 70 may have a first portion 120 corresponding to the front panel of the finished upper 12, a second portion 122 corresponding to the inner sidewall of the finished upper 12, and a third portion 124 corresponding to the outer sidewall of the finished upper 12. The second portion 122 and the third portion 124 may be separated by a centrally located throat region 126, which corresponds to and / or may form the throat of a footwear article. The clamp 70 includes a plurality of upright pins 68 spaced at regular intervals and arranged along a curved path surrounding the central region 64. The clamp 70 typically includes an outer side 22 and an inner side 24, wherein pins 68 on the outer side 22 define an outer peripheral edge 128 of the clamp 70, and pins 68 on the inner side 24 define an inner peripheral edge 130 of the clamp 70. In addition, the clamp 70 may include rear edge portions 134a, 134b corresponding to the outer heel seam and the inner heel seam.

[0060] As is understood in this art, through Figure 9 The upper produced by the clamp 70 may extend or wrap around a three-dimensional solid model of the foot (referred to as a "last"). The lateral peripheral edge 128 and medial peripheral edge 130 may then be stitched or otherwise attached to a piece of material called a strobel, designed to extend between the wearer's foot and the sole structure 14. The lateral heel seam 134a and medial heel seam 134b will be attached together to form a seam extending between the sole structure 14 and the ankle opening 28 on the distal portion of the heel area 20.

[0061] Although in general this technology will be about and Figure 9 Similar clamp designs are discussed here, but these teachings and techniques can also be applied to clamps of other shapes or geometries. For example, in some embodiments, the clamp can produce an upper component that extends below the foot (i.e., between the internal volume and the sole structure) and wraps upward around the opposing inner and outer sides of the foot, such as... Figures 18A to 18B As shown. Similarly, in a non-footwear context, clamps can be designed to form pieces or sections of fabric that form functional garments or wearable accessories.

[0062] Figure 10 This schematically illustrates what can be done in, for example... Figure 9An embodiment of the yarn strand configuration / design 140 produced on the clamp 70 is shown. In this embodiment, a plurality of yarn strands 52 each extend linearly across the central region 64 of the clamp 70. The set of yarn strands 52 can be broadly divided into two types or subsets: a first subset 142, which includes yarn strands terminating at or extending from the throat region 126; and a second subset 144, which includes yarn strands extending between points provided on the peripheral edges (i.e., between points on one or more of the heel seams 134a, 134b, the outer peripheral edge 128 and the inner peripheral edge 130, or the forefoot toe edge 138).

[0063] The first subset of yarn strands 142 may be operable to provide sidewall support and / or directly receive tensile loads from the closure 34. To achieve this, each yarn strand in the first subset (typically at 142) may extend from the throat region 126 across at least one of a second portion 122 of the clamp (e.g., yarn strand 142a extending across the inner sidewall) or a third portion 124 (e.g., yarn strand 142b extending across the outer sidewall). In some embodiments, these yarn strands may terminate at one of the outer peripheral edge 128 or the inner peripheral edge 130. In some embodiments, the first subset 142 of yarn strands 52 may define or surround one or more eyelets through which the shoelaces may pass.

[0064] The second yarn strand subset 144 may be operable to provide more general support and structure to the upper 12 (including in one or both of the heel area 20 or the forefoot area 16 of the upper 12). In this subset 144, each yarn strand may extend between two points along the outer edge of the clamp, without terminating at the throat area 126. Figure 10 As generally illustrated, the subset may include yarn strands 144a extending linearly across the forefoot portion 120 from the outer peripheral edge 128 to the inner peripheral edge 130 and / or yarn strands 144b extending from the heel seam 134a, 134b to one of the outer peripheral edge 128 or the inner peripheral edge 130.

[0065] refer to Figure 11In some embodiments, the engineered fabric and / or integral yarn structure may consist of multiple distinct layers 150 of yarn strands 52, wherein each layer is individually wound or otherwise formed. In some embodiments, each layer may be wound onto its respective clamp 70, and the assembly may be stacked and linked together to form the engineered fabric. The clamp 70 may be designed, sized, or otherwise configured such that, when stacked, each layer 150 of the yarn strand can contact the directly adjacent layer. Furthermore, the clamp may include one or more positioning features that, when stacked, ensure proper alignment and alignment between the layers. In some embodiments, each yarn layer may be planar or substantially planar. Potentially stacking multiple yarn layers with a bonding material disposed between adjacent layers can provide a z-height stacked structure and produce an engineered fabric thickness greater than the similar thickness of any single layer. Although Figure 11 The illustration shows a stack of two yarn layers, but in some embodiments, other materials may be layered between or on top of portions of the yarn strands to further construct a composite structure. As will be discussed in more detail below, this layering concept allows other materials (such as vinyl, suede, foam, felt, mesh, etc.) to be integrated into or linked with engineered fabrics to form larger components, where the engineered fabric comprises only a portion of the component.

[0066] Continue to refer to Figure 11 The mechanical properties of a finished engineered fabric can be influenced by the orientation, spacing, toughness, and elasticity of the yarn strands in each constituent layer. In other words, it can be explicitly envisioned that different layers can be formed from strands with different elasticities and / or yarn spacing / densities to provide different material stretch responses depending on how force is applied. This can make the engineered fabric elastic in one direction and resilient in another (i.e., those two directions are not necessarily perpendicular to each other, as might be the case in conventionally woven fabrics).

[0067] polymer linkage

[0068] As described above, unlike traditional fabric construction methods (such as weaving, knitting, crocheting, or braiding), the yarn strands in the engineered fabrics of this invention do not require physical entanglement, winding, weaving, knotting, looping, or otherwise directly interconnecting with other yarn strands in the fabric to provide structure. Therefore, without some way of connecting adjacent yarn strands, once the yarn is removed from the clamp, the corresponding yarn strands may gradually become a messy spaghetti yarn, which retains little or no useful fabric or textile quality. To create this interconnected structure, the bonding material 54 may contact adjacent yarn strands in the plurality of yarn strands 52 and / or extend between adjacent yarn strands in the plurality of yarn strands 52 to connect the corresponding strands 52 together, as mentioned above. Figures 1 to 3 As generally illustrated. While this disclosure should not exclude the presence of twisted, looped, braided, or knotted strands of yarn in localized areas, such interconnections on their own would not be sufficient to provide the material integrity required for the fabric.

[0069] Various techniques can be used to apply the bonding material 54 to the yarn strand 52. In many embodiments, the bonding material 54 can be printed, extruded, or otherwise deposited onto the yarn strand while being in a physical state suitable for such processes. Examples of printing processes can include screen printing; bitmap-based printing / material deposition processes (e.g., which can be combined with...) Figure 12 (used with the inkjet printer shown), or vector-based three-dimensional printing processes / deposition molding (e.g., such as...) Figures 14 to 15 (The fused filaments shown are manufactured as described). In other configurations, the yarn strands 52 may be joined by using one or more pre-formed polymer stitches, which are fused to the strands 52 by a suitable fusion process (e.g., heat fusion, welding, or otherwise chemical bonding).

[0070] Applying the bonding material 54 to the yarn strands 52 can be a selective and additional process that results in each yarn strand being secured at multiple bonding points / sections along its length. These bonding sections can then be separated by corresponding and alternating unbonded sections, where the yarn strands are substantially exposed. The total amount of bonding material applied to the yarn strands can be expressed as an area fraction or percentage (bonding material coverage percentage), whereby such a percentage can be expressed according to the formula: [(bonding material coverage area / total fabric area)], where the individual areas are measured in a two-dimensional planar view (i.e., a view parallel to the thinnest dimension of the engineered fabric). In some embodiments, the bonding material coverage percentage can be about 5% to about 95%, or about 5% to about 50%, or about 50% to about 95%, or about 15% to about 35%. In some embodiments, the bonding material coverage percentage can vary across the engineered fabric. For example, in the context of a shoe where the upper is formed of engineered fabric, portions of the heel and / or forefoot area (e.g., heel counter and / or toe) may have a bonding material coverage percentage of about 75% to 95%, while portions of the midfoot area (e.g., medial or lateral sidewall) or the forefoot panel may have a bonding material coverage percentage of about 10% to about 70% or about 10% to about 50%. In some embodiments, the bonding material coverage percentage can be altered by auxiliary processes after the bonding material is applied to the yarn strands. For example, in one configuration, the bonding material can be selectively heated and / or pressed to cause the bonding material to spread across a larger area (thus resulting in a larger coverage percentage).

[0071] When constructing fabrics, various bonding materials can be used to bind yarn strands together. However, it is crucial that the fabric retains a degree of flexibility and elasticity after bonding and does not respond as readily as fiber-reinforced composites (e.g., conventional rigid carbon fiber composites). Therefore, if stronger / less elastic bonding materials are used, they should be applied in lower amounts or at larger intervals to allow intermittent yarn strands to react or bend without excessive restriction. If softer bonding materials are used to bond the yarn strands, the bonding material can cover a larger continuous area while still allowing a certain level of fabric bending. In most cases, bonding material 54 preferably has a stiffness of about 10A to about 70A measured on the Shore A scale. Similarly, in some embodiments, when in its finished / solidified form, the bonding material may have a material elasticity of about 5% to about 400%, or about 100% to about 400%, or about 200% to about 400%. In some designs, different bonding materials with different material stiffness and / or material elasticity can be used in different parts of the fabric / upper to further tune the responsiveness of the final fabric / article.

[0072] like Figure 12As generally illustrated, in one embodiment, a bonding material 54 can be selectively applied to yarn strands 52 using an inkjet printing process. This process can employ a printing apparatus 200 (i.e., an inkjet printer 200) that uses a movable printhead 202 to selectively dispense liquid or flowable bonding material 204 onto the yarn strands 56. In one configuration, the liquid bonding material 204 may comprise an uncured thermosetting polymer having sufficient material viscosity to span small spaces or gaps between yarn strands. In some embodiments, the inkjet printer 200 may include at least two fluid reservoirs 206, one containing a resin and the other containing a hardener / polymerizer, wherein the two components can be mixed before exiting from the printhead 202.

[0073] Continue to refer to Figure 12 The inkjet printer 200 can operate under the guidance of a processor or computer 208, which can control the printhead to output bonding material across the yarn strands according to a pattern defined by a digital bitmap 210 stored in memory 212, accessible by the processor 208. The bitmap can define a pixelated graphic or other design, wherein each pixel is encoded to indicate whether the pixel accepts a polymer. The inkjet printer 200 is then configured to discharge bonding material onto the yarn strands to reproduce the graphic represented by the bitmap.

[0074] The inkjet printer 200 may also include a stage 214 adapted to receive a clamp 70 and an assembly of wound yarn strands. In some embodiments, the stage 214 is capable of linear movement to controllably advance the yarn strands relative to the path of the printhead. The stage 214 may include a substrate surface 216 on which the yarn strands 52 may rest, and the substrate surface 216 serves as a stop to prevent uncured polymer 204 from dripping between the applied yarn strands. In a preferred embodiment, the stage 214 / substrate surface 216 may be formed of or coated with a polymer different from the polymer applied by the printhead, such that any adhesion between the two is minimized (i.e., recognizing that polymers with similar chemical structures exhibit greater binding affinity).

[0075] Figure 13 This schematically illustrates the use of, for example Figure 11The inkjet printer 200 shown illustrates a method 250 for constructing engineered fabrics. As generally illustrated, the process can begin at 252 by providing a yarn-wound clamp comprising a plurality of oriented yarn strands extending and aligned across a central region of the clamp. In some embodiments, the yarn-wound clamp can be produced by a process such as described above, wherein one or more consecutive yarn strands are wound around a plurality of retaining features extending upward from the peripheral frame of the clamp. In other embodiments, such winding clamps can be provided, for example, by obtaining them from a third-party supplier in a substantially complete / wound form.

[0076] Once the jig for winding the yarn is provided (e.g., via an automated winding process), the entire jig can be inverted (at 254) so ​​that the upright pin faces downwards. While this step may initially seem insignificant, inverting the jig to extend the pin downwards allows the print head to print closer to the edge of the jig compared to a conventional approach, without the risk of the print head contacting the pin. Inverting the jig on the worktable is further used to reduce the amount of material waste that would otherwise be necessary if the pin remained upright but further spaced to allow the print head free movement. In alternative designs, physical interference between the print head and the upright pin can be corrected or reduced by designing a print head with elongated nozzles and / or by making the print head arc at the periphery of the workspace.

[0077] Once inverted, the clamp 70 can be placed on or around the table / base surface (at 256) such that retaining features extend into and / or below the base surface (i.e., they may extend into holes / channels provided in the base, or may be located radially outward from the periphery of the table). In some embodiments, the clamp and / or table may include one or more locating pins or other interlocking features that, when the clamp is placed on the table, mechanically ensure that the clamp is positioned relative to the table in a known and repeatable position and orientation.

[0078] Once the yarn strands are in place on the substrate, the processor can guide the print head to print or extrude bonding material across the multiple oriented yarn strands in a predetermined pattern (at 258). In some embodiments, this step of printing or extruding bonding material in a predetermined pattern can also serve as a precursor step of placing the yarn-wound jig on the worktable / substrate (at 251). In this way, the process can be a print-place-reprint type process, in which two layers of bonding material traverse similar predetermined paths, thereby completely surrounding each yarn strand (i.e., the opposite of printing only on one side).

[0079] Once applied to / across the yarn strands, the bond material is then solidified at 260°. In instances where the bond material is thermoplastic prior to printing or extrusion and will remain thermoplastic in the finished article, solidifying the bond material may include lowering its temperature to below its softening temperature, such as by actively or passively cooling the material. The bond material may include a polymerizable composition containing a polymer precursor, and the step of printing or extruding the bond material may include exposing the polymerizable composition to conditions under which the polymer precursor reacts to form a polymer, followed by solidification. The bond material may include a crosslinkable polymer material, and the step of printing or extruding the uncured bond material may include initiating a crosslinking agent to cure and solidify the bond material. The bond material may include a crosslinkable material, and the step of solidifying the uncured bond material may include exposing the printed or extruded uncured bond material to photochemical radiation to initiate crosslinking of the polymer, thereby curing and solidifying the bond material. For example, the uncured bond material may be cured (at 260°) by applying external radiation (or curing may be initiated and / or accelerated). For example, uncured bonded materials can be exposed to photochemical radiation forms such as infrared or ultraviolet light. In one configuration, the component can be heated to a predetermined temperature and held at that temperature for a predetermined amount of time. In some configurations, curing can be a two- or multi-step process involving first heating to a first predetermined temperature for a first predetermined amount of time, followed by heating to a second predetermined temperature above the first temperature for a second predetermined amount of time. In this configuration, the first temperature / time can be used to partially cure the polymer, while the second temperature / time can be used to fully cure the polymer.

[0080] In some configurations, multilayer materials or yarn strands can be combined into a final fabric assembly by using an applied bonding material to adhere and bond adjacent layers or materials together. For example, in one embodiment, foam or woven fabric trim can be applied to the edges of the engineered fabric and connected to the yarn strands by the applied bonding material before the final solidification of the bonding material. Figure 2 In the illustrated embodiment, such trim may include a fabric trim around the ankle opening or a structurally reinforced heel counter. Similarly, in some embodiments, such as Figure 10 As shown, multiple layers of yarn strands can be stacked and linked to produce a greater thickness and structure in the final fabric.

[0081] In such a multi-layer configuration, once the bonding material applied to the initial layer of yarn strands has at least partially solidified (if necessary for a particular stack), a second (or subsequent) layer of yarn strands can be laid onto the assembly (at 262). The yarn strands within this newly added layer can be secured to each other by subsequently applying bonding material across multiple yarn strands in the new layer (at 258). This process can be repeated until all desired layer stacks are completed, with the bonding material spanning each yarn strand in each layer, after which the entire assembly can finally be cured / solidified.

[0082] Although Figure 12 An inkjet printer for selectively applying bonding material to yarn strands is illustrated schematically; however, in other embodiments, different techniques may be used to apply the bonding material. For example, such as... Figure 14 As shown, the deposition modeling (DM) system 300 can be configured to selectively deposit bead-like or strip-like flowable thermoplastic material onto yarn strands. Such a printing system may include a computer-controlled movable printhead 302 that is controllably movable relative to a fixture in at least two translational dimensions. Compared to inkjet printers, the DM printer 300 is more capable of printing on curved surfaces (e.g., an assembly of rolls wrapped around a shoe last) because it can be more easily mounted to a robotic arm.

[0083] As another distinction, in some configurations, inkjet printers can selectively deposit uncured thermosetting polymers, which must then be crosslinked / cured to achieve a robust state. However, DM printers typically heat and expel flowable thermoplastic polymers, which become more robust once cooled below their respective glass transition temperatures. Due to the nature of the extrusion process, DM printers tend to print in continuous output, which is more suitable for path / vector-based printing. Thus, in this configuration, the print head 302 of the DM printer 300 can be configured to traverse a predetermined path 310, such as... Figure 15 As illustrated schematically, the bonding material is simultaneously discharged onto and between the yarn strands.

[0084] Figure 14 schematically illustrated Figure 2 The DM construction of the shoe upper is shown. As illustrated, one or more yarn strands 52 can be formed on a jig, thereby forming the yarn strand configuration / design 140 as described above. The vector path design 310 can then be digitally configured as one or more continuous paths, on which the print head of the DM printer will be directed to deposit thermoplastic resin. Once completed, the shoe upper can be similar to that in 312 and Figure 2 The shoe upper shown.

[0085] Polymer-fiber interaction

[0086] While these bonding material printing techniques offer unique ways of linking constituent yarn strands within a fabric, additional consideration may be needed regarding the specific interactions between the applied bonding material and the yarn strands. More specifically, the techniques used to bond adjacent yarn strands and layers offer considerable flexibility in controlling the mechanical and material interactions between the bonding material and the yarn strands. As used herein, mechanical bonding is intended to refer to any bond or structural connection that is a direct result of the physical entrapment of fibers. Examples of mechanical bonding may include bonding material partially or completely surrounding the yarn strands, surface texture interlocking of the bonding material with the strands themselves (e.g., the bonding material extending into recesses between constituent strands in the woven fiber), and / or the bonding material being mechanically impeded from contact with a portion of the fiber. In contrast to mechanical bonding, material bonding is intended to refer to any bond that is a direct result of the material itself. Such bonding may include covalent surface bonding, thermal fusion, etc.

[0087] Generally, mechanical bonding can be mainly used to constrain the translation of yarn strands in the radial direction (i.e., transverse to the longitudinal axis of the fiber), while material bonding can be mainly used to constrain the translation of yarn strands in the longitudinal direction.

[0088] In the above process, by printing the bonding material onto the yarn strands only after the strands are positioned on the substrate, there is a chance that the bonding material may not completely surround the strands, and therefore the mechanical bond may not be as strong as possible. While incomplete surrounding of the yarn strands can still provide a reasonably strong bond and may be suitable for some applications or low-stress areas of the fabric, in other embodiments or locations, it may be desirable to achieve a stronger and / or more durable bond by completely surrounding the circumference of the yarn strands with the bonding material.

[0089] Various techniques can be employed to promote complete retention of the fiber by the binding material. For example, in one configuration, the fiber can be treated with a wicking promoter and / or can be maintained at a predetermined distance from the substrate to promote the migration of the binding material to the reverse side of the fiber.

[0090] In another embodiment, complete retention can be achieved through the printing process itself. For example... Figure 16 As schematically illustrated, one such technique may involve selectively printing a bonding material 54 onto a substrate (i.e., ...) before laying multiple oriented yarn strands 54 across the upper substrate surface 216 of the worktable 214. Figure 13 Step 251 in the text). Then, a composite material with the same or similar pattern can be printed on top of strand 54 ( Figure 13In step 258), the strands 54 can at least partially flow over and contact the initially printed bonding material. This eliminates any uncertainty about whether the bonding material flows sufficiently to the opposite side of the strands. Once cured or solidified, the different layers of bonding material can fuse together to surround and span each yarn strand. As an additional advantage, by printing directly onto the substrate, the surface finish / texture / pattern of the outermost layer of bonding material 54 can be controlled by the surface finish of the substrate 216. More specifically, the worktable 214 can be etched, machined, or otherwise formed into a negative relief pattern in the substrate surface. When the bonding material is initially applied to that surface, it can flow across the pattern and take on that texture or form.

[0091] To further control the bonding material-ply interaction, the degree of chemical bonding between the materials can be intentionally controlled. For example, by intentionally controlling the material composition of the bonding material and the ply, adhesion can be promoted or alternatively hindered. For example, in one configuration, the ply may be bonded to one or more polymer yarn strands or coatings that are compatible with or identical to the bonding material printed across the ply. When applied, the applied bonding material can bond and / or thermally fuse with the polymer embedded in the ply to form a strong bond.

[0092] In another embodiment, the strands may be formed of a polymer that is different from or incompatible with the printed bonding material, or may be coated with a polymer that is different from or incompatible with the printed bonding material. When this is done, while the printed bonding material may completely surround the strands to capture and constrain their lateral translation, it may not terminate the direct bonding to the strands themselves. This allows the strands to still be able to translate longitudinally through the printed polymer, which can increase the fabric's flowability and dynamic response.

[0093] In another embodiment, the vertical height of the print head can vary as the print head moves across the yarn strands. By changing the vertical height when discharging the bonding material, the discharged bonding material can begin to solidify before fully contacting the yarn strands. In doing so, the bond between the bonding material and the yarn strands can be weakened, which can allow the yarn strands to have some ability to break freely or otherwise travel longitudinally through the “holes” formed by the z-height modulation.

[0094] refer to Figure 17In one embodiment, this longitudinal translation / tunneling concept can be further developed by utilizing multilayer yarn strands 400. As shown, the strands may include an inner core 402 surrounded by an outer sheath 404. The outer sheath 404 may be formed as a polymer yarn strand or coating comprising one or more components readily bonded to a printed bonding material 54. However, due to its structure, the sheath 404 can mechanically protect the core 402 from such bonding. Thus, the inner core 402 can remain within the bonded and constrained outer sheath 404, freely translating in the longitudinal direction L. In some embodiments, to ensure that no bonding occurs between the core 402 and the sheath 404, or between the core 402 and any through-printed bonding material 54, the core 402 may be formed of a material different from the sheath 404 and / or the printed bonding material 54. In some embodiments, an additional layer may be provided between the core 402 and the sheath 404 to impede any through-bonding and / or reduce friction / resistance between the components.

[0095] In the context of footwear, the ability of certain yarn strands to maintain a certain degree of freedom in longitudinal translation can be important when designing adaptive constraints or closed systems. For example, in Figures 18A to 18B In the illustrated upper design, yarn strands 52 can extend from eyelets 450 on the first outer side 22 of the throat 26, across the foot portion 452, and extend to eyelets 450 on the opposite outer side 24 of the throat 26. In some embodiments, these yarn strands 52 may comprise multiple layers of yarn strands 400, similar to... Figure 16 Those illustrated. Printed bonding material 54 can be used to bond these strands to additional yarn strands, to a loosely woven fabric, or to other such structures that ensure they remain in a generally stable relative position. These specific yarn strands can work in conjunction with a closure system 34 (e.g., shoelaces through eyelets) to adaptively contract the upper around the wearer's foot with slightly uniform pressure. In other embodiments, these longitudinally translatable yarn strands can be used in conjunction with an adaptive / dynamic / mechanized closure system, such as that described in US2018 / 0125168, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

[0096] In some embodiments, the bonding material may be printed onto the strand in a graphic design, which includes logo 470, text, or images, such as... Figure 19 and Figure 20 As roughly illustrated. Furthermore, as shown in the diagram. Figure 21As generally illustrated, the design / pattern itself can be arranged to function independently of any graphic appearance. For example, in one embodiment, the printed design / pattern 472 of the bonding material can provide a degree of design-induced elasticity, whereby the bonding material design 472 can straighten before any substantial material-based stretching occurs. The design-induced elasticity can be in the form of, for example, alternating waves (e.g., squares, zigzags / triangles, sine curves) that can straighten to provide design-induced stretching before the material itself stretches. In doing so, once the design reaches its point of maximum elongation, the fabric may appear firmer / more strongly resisting further deformation. In the context of footwear, this design-induced stretching can be beneficial, for example, around the ankle opening 28 to help the wearer insert their foot into the internal volume 26 of the upper 12.

[0097] One-piece shoe part

[0098] The construction technique of this invention provides great design flexibility by allowing designers to adjust the directional elasticity of the fabric, while also optimizing the fabric's primary load path to minimize shear stress. In addition to these mechanical properties, this technique offers a new level of functional design. More specifically, designers can adjust the pattern or placement of the overlay bonding material to provide functionality beyond fabric integrity / yarn strand interconnection. For example, in the context of footwear, the overlay bonding material can be used to provide cushioning or adhesion friction and / or facilitate the bonding of yarn strands with other materials, such as discrete cushioning elements or trim elements. Furthermore, a stiffer / stronger bonding material can be additionally applied to form discrete reinforcing panels, such as heel counters or toe cushions.

[0099] Figures 22A to 22B The illustration shows the relationship with Figures 18A to 18B Examples of footwear articles similar to those provided herein include footwear articles in which the applied bonding material forms or otherwise connects the sole component 500 (e.g., outsole) to the outer surface of the restraint portion 502 of the upper 12. As generally shown, the restraint portion 502 may extend upward along the sidewall and may engage directly with the closure 34 to create a proper tension fit around the wearer's foot. The restraint portion 502 may extend from the inner side 24 of the article, across the foot portion 452, and to the outer side of the article 22. This portion may be further secured to additional components to form other aspects such as the toe 504, the forefoot panel 506, the rear quarter portion 508, etc.

[0100] In this design, the integrated sole component 500 is attached to the foot portion 452 of the restraint section, but can be further extended along, for example... Figure 22BThe portions of the inner and outer sidewalls shown extend upwards. In one embodiment, the sole component may be a first layer of applied bonding material (i.e., bonding material printed directly onto the substrate surface of the workbench) or a last layer of applied bonding material (i.e., applied to the upper surface of the component before final curing / hardening). While the substrate surface has been discussed above as potentially having a negative relief texture transferable to the bonding material, in one configuration it may also have recesses suitable for filling with bonding material to form the entire sole component before the yarn strands are laid. In an alternative embodiment, the workbench / substrate surface may define recesses that appropriately receive the prefabricated sole component / sole structure. The prefabricated component can be inserted into the recess and then secured to the yarn strands / fabric by bonding with the printed bonding material (i.e., in the case of using bonding material instead of a binder). In some embodiments, particularly in the case of thermoplastics, it may be desirable to thermally flash the upper surface of the component before applying the printed bonding material to facilitate bonding.

[0101] Although Figures 22A to 22B The illustration schematically depicts a sole component 500 attached to fabric; however, in other embodiments, similar bonding material printing techniques can be used to attach auxiliary decorative elements to the fabric, such as eyelets, logos, embellishments, mudguards, closures, etc. Furthermore, in some embodiments, these techniques can be used to finish the edges of the fabric with foam and / or woven materials (e.g., the edges of the fabric at the throat or ankle opening) to provide a more refined feel and appearance, such as... Figure 2 The heel portion 20 is illustrated. More specifically, such components can be preformed and bonded to yarn strands / engineered fabrics using an applied bonding material as a binder (i.e., without using other auxiliary bonding binders). Thus, additional materials (foam, preformed polymer, woven material) or structures are simply another layer of the component. By using miscible / compatible polymers or polymer-impregnated fabrics, the preformed component can be easily bonded to printed bonding materials from engineered fabrics, especially if thermosetting or bonding processes are employed.

[0102] In addition to providing targeted, optimized strength / elasticity properties, the engineered fabrics described herein can also exhibit enhanced abrasion resistance due to a bonding material that protrudes above the yarn level and covers the surface. Therefore, if the engineered fabric lightly touches an abrasive surface, it is likely that the bonding material will make initial contact, rather than the yarn strands, which may be more prone to abrasion, snagging, or tearing. Where additional waterproofing may be desired, a thin, elastic membrane can be used as a layer of the fabric as a component. Such a membrane would ideally possess sufficient elasticity to prevent it from significantly affecting the fabric's material response. In some embodiments, the elastic membrane can be laminated to the fabric on both sides, such that all yarn strands are contained between two or more opposing membranes. In this way, the possibility of unintentionally obstructing the yarns during normal use is further reduced.

[0103] Further embodiments and examples of this disclosure are provided in the following terms:

[0104] Clause 1. A method of producing an engineered fabric, comprising: placing a yarn-wound clamp on an upper surface of a substrate, the yarn-wound clamp including: a frame defining a central region; a plurality of retaining features disposed along an outer periphery of the central region and extending outwardly from the frame; and a plurality of arranged yarn strands, each of the plurality of arranged yarn strands extending across the central region of the frame and extending between two of the plurality of retaining features; selectively printing or extruding a bonding material across the plurality of arranged yarn strands; solidifying the bonding material to bond adjacent yarn strands together to form a connected plurality of arranged yarn strands; removing the connected plurality of arranged yarn strands from the substrate and the frame, the connected plurality of arranged yarn strands forming the engineered fabric.

[0105] Clause 2. The method according to Clause 1, wherein the bonding material selectively printed or extruded across the plurality of arranged yarn strands defines a first bonding material layer; the method further includes selectively printing or extruding the bonding material on the substrate to form a second bonding material layer before placing a jig for winding the yarn on the upper surface of the substrate; and wherein the first bonding material layer contacts the second bonding material layer between adjacent yarn strands; and wherein solidifying the bonding material operatively bonds the first bonding material layer to the second bonding material layer.

[0106] Clause 3. The method according to Clause 2, wherein the yarn winding clamp is a first yarn winding clamp, and the plurality of arranged yarn strands are a first plurality of yarn strands; the method further comprises placing a second yarn winding clamp on the first yarn winding clamp, the second yarn winding clamp comprising: a second frame defining a central region; a second plurality of retaining features disposed along the outer periphery of the central region and extending outward from the second frame; and a second plurality of arranged yarn strands, each of the second plurality of arranged yarn strands extending across the central region of the second frame and extending between two of the second plurality of retaining features; selectively printing or extruding the bonding material across the second plurality of arranged yarn strands.

[0107] Clause 4. The method according to Clause 3, wherein the coagulation further incorporates the first plurality of arranged yarn strands into the second plurality of arranged yarn strands.

[0108] Clause 5. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 4 further includes placing a preformed material component on the plurality of arranged yarn strands, and wherein the solidification of the bonding material also bonds the preformed material component to the plurality of arranged yarn strands.

[0109] Clause 6. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 5 further includes winding a continuous length of yarn around the plurality of retaining features to form the plurality of arranged yarn strands.

[0110] Clause 7. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 6 further includes oriented the yarn-wound clamp such that the plurality of retaining features extend from the frame toward the substrate; and wherein placing the yarn-wound clamp on the upper surface of the substrate includes placing the yarn-wound clamp on or around the substrate such that the retaining features extend below the upper surface of the substrate.

[0111] Clause 8. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 7, wherein two or more yarn strands in a subset of the plurality of arranged yarn strands are substantially parallel.

[0112] Clause 9. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 8, wherein the plurality of arranged yarn strands includes a first yarn strand subset covering the second yarn strand subset; and wherein, within the central region of the frame, the first yarn strand subset is interconnected with the second yarn strand subset only by the bonding material.

[0113] Clause 10. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 9, wherein selectively printing or extruding the bonding material across the plurality of arranged yarn strands further comprises: forming a plurality of bonded portions of the yarn strand for each yarn strand within the plurality of arranged yarn strands, wherein each bonded portion of the yarn strand is in direct contact with the bonding material; wherein along the length of the yarn strand, the bonded portions of the yarn strand alternate with unbonded portions of the yarn strand, and wherein the unbonded portions of the yarn strand are not in direct contact with the bonding material.

[0114] Clause 11. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 10, wherein selectively printing or extruding the bonding material onto the plurality of arranged yarn strands comprises printing the bonding material onto the plurality of arranged yarn strands using a computer-controlled printing press having printing nozzles operable to discharge the bonding material.

[0115] Clause 12. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 11 further comprises: winding a first yarn of a continuous length around a first subset of the plurality of retaining features to form a first subset of the plurality of arranged yarn strands; winding a second yarn of a continuous length around a second subset of the plurality of retaining features to form a second subset of the plurality of arranged yarn strands; and wherein: each yarn strand in the first subset of the plurality of arranged yarn strands is aligned along a first common direction and has a first material elasticity; each yarn strand in the second subset of the plurality of arranged yarn strands is aligned along a second common direction and has a second material elasticity; the first common direction is different from the second common direction; and the first material elasticity is different from the second material elasticity.

[0116] Clause 13. The method according to Clause 12, wherein the winding of the first yarn of the continuous length around the first subset of the plurality of retaining features and the winding of the second yarn of the continuous length around the second subset of the plurality of retaining features occur simultaneously.

[0117] Clause 14. The method according to any one of Clauses 12 to 13, wherein the first common direction is inclined to the second common direction.

[0118] Clause 15. The method according to Clause 13, wherein when the continuous length of the second yarn is wound around the plurality of second subsets of retaining features, the winding of the continuous length of the first yarn is performed through a common computer-controlled winding head.

[0119] Clause 16. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 15, wherein the bonding material comprises a polymer selected from polyesters, polyamides, polyolefins, polyacetic acids, polyurethanes, or any combination thereof, and wherein curing or solidifying the polymer material comprises initiating a crosslinking reaction thereby crosslinking the polymer.

[0120] Clause 17. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 16 further includes: using the engineered fabric to construct clothing or footwear articles.

[0121] Clause 18. An engineered fabric comprising: a plurality of yarn strands, the plurality of yarn strands including a subset extending in a substantially parallel and spaced-apart arrangement; a bonding material extending across the plurality of yarn strands, the bonding material encapsulating a portion of each yarn strand to bond adjacent yarn strands together; and wherein the plurality of yarn strands are bonded together solely by the bonding material.

[0122] Clause 19. The engineered fabric according to Clause 18, wherein the subset of the plurality of yarn strands is a first subset disposed in a first layer and extending in a first common direction; the engineered fabric further includes a second subset of the plurality of yarn strands provided in a second layer adjacent to the first layer, wherein the yarn strands in the second subset are arranged in a substantially parallel and spaced-apart manner along a second common direction; wherein the bonding material encapsulates a portion of each of the second plurality of yarn strands to bond adjacent yarn strands together; and wherein the bonding material also bonds the first layer to the second layer.

[0123] Clause 20. The engineered fabric according to Clause 19, wherein the first common direction is inclined to the second common direction.

[0124] Clause 21. The engineered fabric according to Clause 20, wherein the first subset of the plurality of yarn strands has a different material elasticity than the second subset of the plurality of yarn strands.

[0125] Clause 22. An engineered fabric according to any one of Clauses 18 to 21, wherein the bonding material extends across the plurality of yarn strands in a zigzag pattern to provide design-induced elasticity.

[0126] Clause 23. The engineered fabric according to any one of Clauses 18 to 22 further includes a foam or woven fabric, and wherein the bonding material is operable to bond the foam or woven fabric to the plurality of yarn strands.

[0127] Clause 24. The engineered fabric according to Clause 23, wherein the foam or woven fabric is fixed to the plurality of yarn strands and extends across the plurality of yarn strands.

[0128] Clause 25. An engineered fabric according to any one of Clauses 18 to 24, wherein the bonding material extends between the plurality of yarn strands and the foam or woven fabric; and wherein the foam or woven fabric is secured to the plurality of yarn strands only by the bonding material.

[0129] Clause 26. A garment article comprising an engineered fabric constructed according to any one of Clauses 1 to 17.

[0130] Clause 27. Clothing articles as described in Clause 26, wherein the clothing articles are footwear articles.

[0131] Clause 28. The garment article according to Clause 27, wherein the footwear article includes an upper and a sole structure, the upper including a front panel, an inner sidewall portion and an outer sidewall portion; and wherein at least one of the front panel, the inner sidewall portion and the outer sidewall portion includes the engineered fabric.

[0132] Clause 29. The garment article according to Clause 28, wherein the forefoot, the inner sidewall portion, and the outer sidewall portion each comprise the engineered fabric.

[0133] Clause 30. The garment articles described in Clause 26, wherein the garment articles are bras, compression shorts, compression pants, compression shirts, compression sleeves, ankle braces, knee braces, wrist braces, elbow braces, backpacks, bags, or watch straps.

[0134] Clause 31. A garment article comprising an engineered fabric according to any one of Clauses 18 to 25.

[0135] Clause 32. The garment articles as described in Clause 31, wherein the garment articles are footwear articles.

[0136] Clause 33. The garment article according to Clause 32, wherein the footwear article includes an upper and a sole structure, the upper including a front panel, an inner sidewall portion and an outer sidewall portion; and wherein at least one of the front panel, the inner sidewall portion and the outer sidewall portion includes the engineered fabric.

[0137] Clause 34. The garment article according to Clause 33, wherein the forefoot, the inner sidewall portion, and the outer sidewall portion each comprise the engineered fabric.

[0138] Clause 35. The garment articles described in Clause 31, wherein the garment articles are bras, compression shorts, compression pants, compression shirts, compression sleeves, ankle braces, knee braces, wrist braces, elbow braces, backpacks, bags, or watch straps.

[0139] Clause 36. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 17, the engineered fabric according to any one of Clauses 18 to 25, or the garment article according to any one of Clauses 26 to 34, wherein the bonding material comprises a thermoplastic polymer, an elastomeric polymer, a thermoplastic elastomer, and / or a thermosetting polymer.

[0140] Clause 37. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 15, the engineered fabric according to any one of Clauses 18 to 25, or the garment article according to any one of Clauses 26 to 34, wherein the bonding material comprises one or more of the following or is substantially composed of one or more of the following: thermoplastic styrene-ethylene / butene-styrene (SEBS) block copolymer elastomer, polybutadiene or polyisoprene, or polysilane or polysiloxane, thermoplastic vulcanizate (TPV), polyurethane, polyurea, polyester, polyether, vinyl polymer, polyolefin, acetate polymer, acrylate or methacrylate polymer, polystyrene, polysilane, polysiloxane, polycarbonate, This includes polyurethanes selected from elastomer polyurethanes, thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPUs), polyurethanes such as polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane copolymers, polyamide homopolymers, polyamide copolymers including polyether block polyamide (PEBA) copolymers, ethylene copolymers such as ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) or ethylene-vinyl alcohol (EVOH), polyolefin homopolymers or copolymers such as polypropylene or polyethylene homopolymers, or copolymers of propylene or ethylene, styrene copolymers such as poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) (SBS), or styrene-ethylene / butene-styrene (SEBS) block copolymers, polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes and / or polyolefins.

[0141] Clause 38. The method according to any one of Clauses 1 to 17, the engineered fabric according to any one of Clauses 18 to 25, or the garment article according to any one of Clauses 26 to 34, wherein the yarn strands comprise yarns, the yarns comprising monofilament yarns, multifilament yarns, staple fiber yarns, and / or composite yarns, the composite yarns being composed of cord or cable yarns or of two or more monofilament yarns combined to form a ply yarn.

[0142] Clause 39. The yarn of Clause 38 comprises one or more fibers or filaments, including naturally occurring cellulose fibers or filaments, naturally occurring protein-based fibers or filaments, naturally occurring mineral-based materials, fibers or filaments made of inorganic materials, fibers or filaments made of recycled natural polymers including cellulose-based polymers and protein-based polymers, synthetic carbon fibers or filaments, and / or synthetic fibers or filaments made of synthetic polymers.

[0143] Clause 41. A footwear article comprising: an upper and a sole structure coupled to said upper; said upper having an outer wall defining a cavity adapted to receive a wearer's foot, said outer wall being at least partially formed of an engineered fabric comprising: a plurality of yarn strands extending in an aligned and spaced-apart arrangement; and a bonding material extending across adjacent yarn strands of said plurality of yarn strands and between adjacent yarn strands of said plurality of yarn strands, said bonding material encapsulating a portion of each yarn strand to link said adjacent yarn strands of said plurality of yarn strands together.

[0144] Clause 42. Footwear articles according to Clause 41, wherein the yarn strands of the plurality of yarn strands are aligned obliquely relative to each other.

[0145] Clause 43. Footwear article according to any one of Clauses 41 to 42, wherein a subset of the plurality of yarn strands extends parallel to each other and in a non-overlapping arrangement.

[0146] Clause 44. Footwear articles according to any one of Clauses 41 to 43, wherein the bonding material has a material elasticity of 200% to 400%.

[0147] Clause 45. Footwear articles according to any one of Clauses 41 to 44, wherein the bonding material is cross-linked polyurethane.

[0148] Clause 46. Footwear articles according to any one of Clauses 41 to 45, wherein the bonding material extends across the plurality of yarn strands in a zigzag or sinusoidal pattern to provide design-induced elasticity.

[0149] Clause 47. Footwear article according to any one of Clauses 41 to 46, wherein the outer wall further comprises a foam or woven fabric sheet, and wherein the bonding material is operable to link the foam or woven fabric sheet to a subset of the plurality of yarn strands.

[0150] Clause 48. Footwear articles according to Clause 47, wherein the foam or woven fabric piece extends across the subset of the plurality of yarn strands and is connected to the subset of the plurality of yarn strands only by the bonding material.

[0151] Clause 49. The footwear article according to any one of Clauses 41 to 48 further includes a seam defined at the location where the outer wall meets the sole structure, and wherein the upper further includes an ankle opening, a throat extending from the ankle opening, and an upper front panel; and wherein: a first subset of the plurality of yarn strands extends from the seam to the throat; and a second subset of the plurality of yarn strands extends from the seam across the upper front panel to the seam.

[0152] Clause 50. Footwear article according to any one of Clauses 41 to 49, wherein the plurality of yarn strands comprises: a first subset of yarn strands having a first material elasticity; a second subset of yarn strands having a second material elasticity different from the first material elasticity; and wherein each yarn strand in the first subset of yarn strands is oriented at an angle relative to each yarn strand in the second subset of yarn strands.

[0153] Clause 51. Footwear article according to Clause 50, wherein the first yarn strand subset overlaps with the second yarn strand subset.

[0154] Clause 52. Footwear article according to any one of Clauses 41 to 51, wherein a portion of the outer wall is composed solely of the plurality of yarn strands and the bonding material between the innermost surface of the outer wall and the outermost surface of the outer wall.

[0155] Clause 53. Footwear article according to any one of Clauses 41 to 52, wherein each of the plurality of yarn strands has an average diameter; and wherein adjacent yarn strands of the plurality of yarn strands are spaced apart from each other by a distance of 1 to 10 times the average diameter.

[0156] Clause 54. Footwear articles according to any one of Clauses 41 to 53, wherein the bonding material comprises one or more of, or substantially consists of, one or more of: thermoplastic styrene-ethylene / butene-styrene (SEBS) block copolymer elastomers, polybutadiene or polyisoprene, or polysilane or polysiloxane, thermoplastic vulcanizate (TPV), polyurethane, polyurea, polyester, polyether, vinyl polymers, polyolefins, acetate polymers, acrylate or methacrylate polymers, polystyrene, polysilane, polysiloxane, polycarbonate, including those selected from elastomer polyurethanes, thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPVs). U), polyurethanes such as elastomer TPU, polyurethane copolymers such as polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane, polyamide homopolymers, polyamide copolymers including polyether block polyamide (PEBA) copolymers, ethylene copolymers such as ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) or ethylene-vinyl alcohol (EVOH), polyolefin homopolymers or copolymers such as polypropylene or polyethylene homopolymers, or copolymers of propylene or ethylene, styrene copolymers such as poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) (SBS), or styrene-ethylene / butene-styrene (SEBS) block copolymers, polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes and / or polyolefins.

[0157] Clause 55. Footwear articles according to any one of Clauses 41 to 54, wherein the yarn strands comprise yarns, the yarns comprising monofilament yarns, multifilament yarns, staple fiber yarns and / or composite yarns, the composite yarns being composed of cord or cable yarns or of two or more monofilament yarns combined to form a ply yarn.

[0158] Clause 56. Footwear articles according to Clause 55, wherein the yarn comprises one or more fibers or filaments, the one or more fibers or filaments comprising naturally occurring cellulose fibers or filaments, naturally occurring protein-based fibers or filaments, naturally occurring mineral-based materials, fibers or filaments made of inorganic materials, fibers or filaments made of recycled natural polymers including cellulose-based polymers and protein-based polymers, synthetic carbon fibers or filaments, and / or synthetic fibers or filaments made of synthetic polymers.

Claims

1. A method for producing engineered fabrics, comprising: The first bonding material is selectively printed or extruded onto the substrate; A clamp for winding yarn is placed on the upper surface of the substrate, the clamp for winding yarn comprising: The framework that defines the central area; Multiple retaining features, the multiple retaining features being disposed along the outer periphery of the central region and extending outward from the frame; and The first plurality of arranged yarn strands, each of the first plurality of arranged yarn strands extending across the central region of the frame and extending between two of the plurality of retaining features; A second bonding material is selectively printed or extruded across the yarn strands of the first plurality of arrangements, and the second bonding material further contacts the first bonding material; Solidify the second bonding material to bond adjacent yarn strands together in the first plurality of arranged yarn strands and form connected first plurality of arranged yarn strands; and The first plurality of connected yarn strands are removed from the substrate and the frame to form the engineered fabric.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the yarn winding clamp is a first yarn winding clamp, and the first plurality of arranged yarn strands are a first plurality of yarn strands; The method further includes placing a clamp for winding the second yarn on a clamp for winding the first yarn, wherein the clamp for winding the second yarn includes: A second frame defining the central area; The second plurality of retaining features are disposed along the outer periphery of the central region of the second frame and extend outward from the second frame; as well as The second plurality of yarn strands are arranged in a plurality of ways, each yarn strand extending across the central region of the second frame and extending between two retaining features in the second plurality of retaining features. The second bonding material is selectively printed or extruded across the second plurality of yarn strands.

3. The method of claim 2, wherein the coagulation further incorporates the first plurality of arranged yarn strands into the second plurality of arranged yarn strands.

4. The method of claim 1, further comprising placing a preformed material component on the first plurality of arranged yarn strands, wherein the solidification of the second bonding material also bonds the preformed material component to the first plurality of arranged yarn strands.

5. The method of claim 1, further comprising winding a continuous length of yarn around the plurality of retaining features to form the first plurality of yarn strands arranged in a plurality of configurations.

6. The method of claim 1, further comprising oriented the clamps on which the yarn is wound such that the plurality of retaining features extend from the frame toward the substrate; and Placing the clamp for winding the yarn on the upper surface of the substrate includes placing the clamp for winding the yarn on or around the substrate, such that the plurality of retaining features extend below the upper surface of the substrate.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein two or more yarn strands in a subset of the first plurality of arranged yarn strands are substantially parallel.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the first plurality of arranged yarn strands includes a first subset of yarn strands covering a second subset of yarn strands; and Within the central region of the frame, the first yarn strand subset is interconnected with the second yarn strand subset only through the second bonding material.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein selectively printing or extruding the second bonding material across the yarn strands of the first plurality of arrangements further comprises: For each yarn strand within the first plurality of arranged yarn strands, a plurality of bonding portions are formed of the yarn strand, wherein each bonding portion of the yarn strand is in direct contact with the second bonding material; Along the length of the yarn strand, the plurality of bonded portions of the yarn strand alternate with the unbonded portions of the yarn strand, and The unbonded portion of the yarn strand does not come into direct contact with the second bonding material.

10. The method of claim 1, wherein selectively printing or extruding the second bonding material onto the first plurality of arranged yarn strands comprises printing the second bonding material onto the first plurality of arranged yarn strands using a computer-controlled printing press having printing nozzles operable to discharge the second bonding material.

11. The method according to claim 1, further comprising: A first yarn of continuous length is wound around a first subset of the plurality of retaining features to form a first subset of the plurality of arranged yarn strands; A second yarn of continuous length is wound around the plurality of second subsets of the retained features to form a second subset of the first plurality of arranged yarn strands; and in: Each yarn strand in the first subset of the first plurality of arranged yarn strands is aligned along a first common direction and has a first material elasticity; Each yarn strand in the second subset of the first plurality of arranged yarn strands is aligned along a second common direction and has a second material elasticity; The first common direction is different from the second common direction; and The elasticity of the first material is different from that of the second material.

12. The method of claim 11, wherein the winding of the first yarn of the continuous length around the first subset of the plurality of retaining features and the winding of the second yarn of the continuous length around the second subset of the plurality of retaining features occur simultaneously.

13. The method of claim 11, wherein the first common direction is inclined to the second common direction.

14. The method of claim 12, wherein when the continuous length of the second yarn is wound around the plurality of second subsets of retaining features, the winding of the continuous length of the first yarn is performed through a common computer-controlled winding head.

15. The method of claim 1, wherein the second binding material comprises a polymer selected from polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, polyacetate, polyurethane, or any combination thereof, and wherein coagulating the second binding material comprises initiating a crosslinking reaction to crosslink the polymer.

16. The method according to claim 1, further comprising: The engineered fabric is used to construct clothing or footwear.

Images