A warp-knitted single-face suede fabric and a production process thereof

Abstract

The application discloses warp-knitted single-surface plush fabric and a production process thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. The application forms loops by special terry sinkers or by the way of loop shedding on the front side of the process, forms a plush effect by cutting the terry, and fixes the plush by the way of loop formation at the bottom. High-shrinkage raw materials are selected for the bottom to make the whole fabric have a compact texture, a delicate hand feeling and a windproof effect.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to a warp-knitted single-face plush fabric and a production process thereof, and belongs to the field of textiles. BACKGROUND

[0002] With the improvement of living standards and the change of consumption concept, leisure and sports textiles are favored by people, and sports fur is pursued by people. In the field of high-end clothing, fur products made of animal fur to some extent meet the requirements of sports fur. Due to the influence of factors such as low yield, harmony between man and nature and concept, animal fur products are not pursued by the public. There are many types of single-face plush products at present. In the weft knitting field, common fur includes fur bar feeding type fur and cutting ring fur, but it has problems such as not windproof and not delicate enough in hand feeling. In the warp knitting field, common fur includes pulled fur, split fur and cut fur, but it has problems such as uneven fur surface hand feeling and hard bottom plate, so it cannot meet the demand of sports fur. At present, the most commonly used sports fur on the market is composite fur, that is, fur with delicate hand feeling and soft and delicate bottom plate are bonded by glue to meet the requirements of comfortable and windproof sports fur. SUMMARY

[0003]

Technical problem

[0004] There are many types of single-face plush products at present. In the weft knitting field, common fur includes fur bar feeding type fur and cutting ring fur, but it has problems such as not windproof and not delicate enough in hand feeling. In the warp knitting field, common fur includes pulled fur, split fur and cut fur, but it has problems such as uneven fur surface hand feeling and hard bottom plate. At present, the most commonly used sports fur on the market is composite fur, that is, fur with delicate hand feeling and soft and delicate bottom plate are bonded by glue to meet the requirements of comfortable and windproof sports fur.

[0005]

Technical solution

[0006] In order to improve the deficiencies of the prior art, the present application provides a preparation process of warp-knitted single-face plush fabric without composite, which has a simple production method. In the process, the loop is formed by special loop sinker or by the way of loop shedding. The plush effect is formed by cutting fur process. The bottom is fixed by looping. The high-shrinkage raw material is selected for the bottom to make the whole fabric have tight texture, delicate hand feeling and windproof effect.

[0007] The first object of the present application is to provide a method for preparing warp-knitted single-face plush fabric without composite. The method is woven on a warp knitting machine with loop sinker. The selection and threading method of each guide bar structure during weaving are as follows:

[0008] GB1:1-0 / 2-3 / / ,full threading;

[0009] GB2: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0010] GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0011] GB4: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0012] Loop sinker POL: 0-0 / 1-1 / / .

[0013] In one embodiment of the present application, the warp knitting machine is a tricot warp knitting machine. The machine is configured with 4 guide bars and a loop sinker device. According to the characteristics of the machine, the ground yarn motion and the horizontal motion of the loop sinker bed are consistent, and both are horizontal motion in the same direction and at the same needle pitch to weave the base fabric of single-sided pile; the loop pile is formed by one of the guide bars on the front horizontal line moving in the opposite direction or the same direction at different needle pitches. The single-sided pile fabric is formed by shearing the loop.

[0014] In one embodiment of the present application, the fabric raw material is selected from one or more of polyester, wool, elastic polyester, cotton, spandex.

[0015] In one embodiment of the present application, the method comprises the following steps:

[0016] 1) Selecting raw materials: selecting matt polyester / wool blended yarn, double-component elastic polyester (PBT, Sorona, etc.), cotton, spandex, etc. as raw materials;

[0017] 2) Beaming: the selected raw materials are beamed on a beaming machine according to the requirements of the width, horizontal density and threading rate, and beamed according to a certain number of heads;

[0018] 3) Weaving: using a HKS4-1(P) type high-speed tricot warp knitting machine to weave;

[0019] 4) Finishing: ① shearing, ② carding, ③ washing, ④ setting, ⑤ dyeing, ⑥ setting;

[0020] 5) Inspection and packaging.

[0021] Among them, the selection and threading mode of each guide bar structure during beaming and weaving are:

[0022] GB1: 1-0 / 2-3 / / , full threading;

[0023] GB2: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0024] GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0025] GB4: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0026] POL: 0-0 / 1-1 / / .

[0027] In an embodiment of the present application, the yarns and the guide bars are matched as follows: GB1 uses polyester / wool blended yarn to weave terry pile velvet; GB2 uses cotton, GB3 uses elastic polyester, and GB4 uses spandex to weave the base fabric.

[0028] In an embodiment of the present application, the yarns and the guide bars are matched as follows: GB1 uses 68Nm-100Nm dull polyester / wool blended yarn to weave terry pile velvet; GB2 uses 40s-60s cotton, GB3 uses 50D-100D dull double-component elastic polyester, and GB4 uses 30D-70D spandex to weave the base fabric of the fabric.

[0029] In an embodiment of the present application, the yarns and the guide bars are matched as follows: GB1 uses 68Nm-100Nm dull polyester / wool blended yarn to weave terry pile velvet; GB2 uses 40s-60s cotton, GB3 uses 50D-100D dull double-component elastic polyester, and GB4 uses 30D-70D spandex to weave the base fabric of the fabric.

[0030] In an embodiment of the present application, the base fabric of the fabric is woven by dull double-component elastic polyester, spandex and cotton yarn, and the terry pile velvet is formed by using dull polyester / wool blended yarn in the special way of terry sinker or terry shedding. The height of the terry pile velvet can be adjusted by the fabric density and the needle back shift number of the guide bar weaving it. The gram weight can be reasonably regulated by the thickness of the yarn and the needle back shift number, and further, the front surface of the fabric is used as the wearing surface and the back surface is used as the reverse surface. The gram weight of the warp-knitted composite-free single-face velvet is 220-420g / m 2 .

[0031] The second object of the present application is to provide a warp-knitted composite-free single-face velvet fabric prepared by the above method.

[0032] The third object of the present application is to provide a fabric containing the above warp-knitted composite-free single-face velvet fabric.

[0033] The beneficial effects of the present application are as follows:

[0034] (1) The fabric of the present application can be prepared by the composite-free method, has high production efficiency, can achieve the effect of imitating the skin and the fur without composite, reduces the production process, saves the production cost, reduces the use of glue required for composite, and is green and environmentally friendly.

[0035] (2) through the shrinkage of the extinction two-component elastic polyester and spandex, the whole base cloth is more compact, the windproof effect is better, the demand of sports fur is met, the reasonable configuration of the raw materials can make the sweat be discharged outside more quickly, the wearing is more comfortable, the air permeability of the fabric can reach 21.3mm / s, the moisture permeability is as high as 6429.15g / (m 2 *24h), and the windproof and moisture permeability is better than that of the market fabric.

[0036] (3) compared with the warp-knitted pile product, the pile of the fabric is more regular, and the hand feeling is more delicate; compared with the warp-knitted double needle bed cut pile product, the bottom is more soft and delicate, the elastic recovery performance is better, and the fabric is more light and thin, and the requirements of the single face pile sports fur are better met.

[0037] (4) the selection of the natural fiber raw material makes the quality of the fabric better, and the selection of the extinction chemical fiber makes the bionic effect better. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0038] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of a knitting machine part with loop sinker, 1 - slot needle, 2 - needle core, 3 - ordinary sinker, 4 - loop sinker, 5 - three-cam device.

[0039] Figure 2 It is a lapping motion diagram of each cam of the warp-knitted composite-free single face pile fabric formed by using HKS4-1 (P) type high-speed tricot warp knitting machine.

[0040] Figure 3 It is a lapping motion diagram of each cam of the warp-knitted composite-free single face pile fabric formed by using KS4FBZ towel machine. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0041] The preferred embodiments of the present application are described below, and it should be understood that the embodiments are used to better explain the present application, and are not used to limit the present application.

[0042] The test of windproof and moisture permeability: the windproof and moisture permeability of the fabric is determined according to FZ / T 01149-2019 "test of windproof and moisture permeability of textile".

[0043] Example 1:

[0044] A warp-knitted composite-free single face pile fabric is composed of the following mass percentages: 100Nm extinction polyester / wool blended yarn 45.53%, 60s cotton 26.84%, 75D / 96F double-component PBT 23.01%, and 40D spandex 4.62%.

[0045] The preparation process of the fabric is as follows: the specific process of each process includes the selection of the structure of each cam, the preparation process, warping, weaving and finishing.

[0046] 1) Material: 100Nm delustered polyester / wool blended yarn, 60s cotton, 75D / 96F bi-component PBT, 40D spandex.

[0047] 2) Winding: two widths of cloth are woven according to width 150cm, the weft density is 16.0wpc, the threading of GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 is full threading, and the calculated winding head fractions are: GB1, GB2, GB3 and GB4 are all 8x600

[0048] 3) Weaving: single needle bed high speed tricot warp knitting machine is adopted for weaving

[0049] Machine type: HKS4-1(P)

[0050] Machine gauge: E28

[0051] Machine width: 170inch

[0052] Warp knitting structure and threading mode:

[0053] GB1: 1-0 / 2-3 / / , full threading;

[0054] GB2: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0055] GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0056] GB4: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0057] POL: 0-0 / 1-1 / / .

[0058] Raw material: GB1: 100Nm delustered polyester / wool blended yarn

[0059] GB2: 60s cotton

[0060] GB3: 75D / 96F delustered bi-component PBT

[0061] GB4: 40D spandex

[0062] The structure lap number, let-off amount and drawing density are input into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, and the machine file is loaded after saving, and then the machine is started.

[0063] 4) Finishing: ① cutting pile, ② carding, ③ washing, ④ setting, ⑤ dyeing, ⑥ setting;

[0064] 5) Detection and packaging.

[0065] The specific parameters of the process of the embodiment are shown in Table 1.

[0066] Table 1

[0067]

[0068]

[0069] Comparative Example 1

[0070] A warp-knitted single-sided pile fabric consisting of the following mass percentages: 68Nm luster polyester / wool blended yarn 44.07%, 40s cotton 20.15%, 100D / 96F luster double-component PBT 29.48%, 40D spandex 6.3%.

[0071] The preparation process of the fabric is as follows: the specific process of each process includes selection of each guide bar structure, preparation process, warping, weaving, and finishing.

[0072] 1) Material selection: 68Nm luster polyester / wool blended yarn, 40s cotton, 100D / 96F luster double-component PBT, 40D spandex

[0073] 2) Warping: two widths of cloth are woven according to the width of 150cm, the weft density is 15.0wpc, GB1, GB2, GB3 are 1 pass 1 empty, GB4 is full pass, and the warping head fraction is calculated: GB1, GB2, GB3 are all 8x282, and GB4 is 8x564

[0074] 3) Weaving: single needle bed double-sided towel machine is used for weaving

[0075] Machine type: KS4FBZ

[0076] Machine gauge: E28

[0077] Machine width: 170 inches

[0078] Warp-knitted structure and yarn feeding method:

[0079] GB1: 3-4 / 1-0 / / , 1 empty 1 pass;

[0080] GB2: 0-1 / 1-0 / / , 1 empty 1 pass;

[0081] GB3: 5-5 / 0-0 / / , 1 pass 1 empty;

[0082] GB4: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full pass;

[0083] Raw materials: GB1: 68Nm luster polyester / wool blended yarn

[0084] GB2: 40s cotton

[0085] GB3: 100D / 96F luster double-component PBT

[0086] GB4: 40D spandex

[0087] The tissue pad yarn number, let-off amount and drawing density are inputted into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, and the machine is started after the file is loaded.

[0088] 4) Finishing: ① shearing, ② carding, ③ washing, ④ setting, ⑤ dyeing, ⑥ setting;

[0089] 5) detection, packaging.

[0090] The specific parameters of the process of the present comparative example are shown in Table 2.

[0091] Table 2

[0092]

[0093] Comparative Example 2:

[0094] A warp-knitted composite-free single-sided pile fabric is composed of 100Nm luster polyester / wool blended yarn 62.23%, 75D / 96F luster double-component PBT 31.45%, and 40D spandex 6.32% by mass percentage.

[0095] The preparation process of the fabric is as follows: the specific process of each process includes selection of each guide bar structure, preparation process, warping, weaving, and finishing.

[0096] 1) Material selection: 100Nm luster polyester / wool blended yarn, 75D / 96F luster double-component PBT, and 40D spandex are selected.

[0097] 2) Warping: two widths of cloth are woven according to the width of 150cm, the weft density is 16.0wpc, and the GB1, GB2, and GB3 are fully threaded, and the warping head fraction is calculated: GB1, GB2, and GB3 are all 8x600

[0098] 3) Weaving: a single needle bed high-speed tricot warp knitting machine is used for weaving

[0099] Machine type: HKS4-1(P)

[0100] Machine gauge: E28

[0101] Machine width: 170 inches

[0102] Warp knitting structure and yarn threading method:

[0103] GB1: 1-0 / 2-3 / / , full threading;

[0104] GB2: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0105] GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading;

[0106] POL: 0-0 / 1-1 / / .

[0107] Raw materials: GB1: 100Nm dull polyester / wool blended yarn

[0108] GB2: 75D / 96F dull bicomponent PBT

[0109] GB3: 40D spandex

[0110] Input the number of tissue pads, let-off amount and pulling density, etc. into the computer display screen of the control cabinet, save and load the machine file to start the machine.

[0111] 4) Finishing: ① shearing, ② carding, ③ washing, ④ setting, ⑤ dyeing, ⑥ setting;

[0112] 5) Inspection, packaging.

[0113] The specific parameters of the process of the present comparative example are shown in Table 3.

[0114] Table 3

[0115]

[0116]

[0117] Example 2:

[0118] The raw materials of GB2 and GB3 in Example 1 were interchanged, and other conditions were unchanged.

[0119] The windproof and moisture permeability of Examples 1-2, Comparative Examples 1-3, and other commercially available sport single-faced suede fabrics were determined according to FZ / T 01149-2019 “Textiles-Test Methods for Windproof and Moisture Permeability”, and the test results are shown in Table 5.

[0120] Table 4 Evaluation of windproof and moisture permeability

[0121] Table 5 Test results of windproof and moisture permeability

[0122]

[0123]

[0124] According to the test results, it can be found from the overall rating results that the ratings of example 1 and comparative example 1 are both grade II, and the windproof effect of comparative example 1 is better. It is analyzed that the raw material configurations of the two are consistent, and both of them use double-component elastic polyester and spandex, so that the base cloth can be well shrunk to form a dense base cloth to meet the demand of windproof. Example 1 uses HKS4-1(P) type machine to produce base cloth, which adopts warp flat structure, while comparative example 1 uses KS4FBZ type machine to produce base cloth, which adopts chain + filling structure (the base cloth structure of this machine type is relatively fixed). Compared with warp flat structure, the chain + filling structure makes the fabric lose the unique structural elasticity of knitted fabric, so the tightness of comparative example 1 is lower than that of example 1, and the windproof effect is not as good as that of example 1. Comparative example 1 and comparative example 2 are compared, and comparative example 2 is less than example 1 by one cotton yarn guide bar. Comparative example 2 is not as thick as example 1, and the windproof effect of comparative example 2 is not as good as that of example 1, but the moisture permeability is better than that of example 1.

[0125] Comparative example 1 and example 2 are compared, and the overall rating results do not change by interchanging the raw materials of the guide bar, but the moisture permeability of the comparative example decreases obviously compared with the example. Comparative examples 1 and 2 and the commercially available sports windproof woolen fabric are compared, and the rating results of the two are the same, and the difference in windproof effect is not large, but the moisture permeability of examples 1 and 2 is obviously better than that of the commercially available fabric. It can be considered that examples 1 and 2 can meet the requirements of sports windproof woolen fabric, and have better wearing comfort.

[0126] Although the present application has been disclosed with the preferred embodiments as above, it is not intended to limit the present application, and anyone skilled in the art can make various modifications and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the present application, therefore the protection scope of the present application should be defined by the claims.

Claims

1. A method of making a warp-knitted, free-composite, single-sided pile fabric, characterized in that, The method is woven on a terry sinker-containing tricot warp knitting machine, and the selection and arrangement of the structure of each guide bar and the threading mode during weaving are as follows: GB1: 1-0 / 2-3 / / , full threading; GB2: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading; GB3: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading; GB4: 1-0 / 1-2 / / , full threading; Terry sinker POL: 0-0 / 1-1 / / ; The method comprises the following steps: 1) Material selection: selecting polyester / wool blended yarn, elastic polyester, cotton, spandex as raw materials; 2) Winding: winding the selected raw materials according to the requirements of the width and the weft density and the threading rate; 3) Weaving: weaving by using a high-speed tricot warp knitting machine; 4) Post-finishing: cutting pile, carding, washing, setting, dyeing, setting; 5) Detection and packaging.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein, The raw materials of the fabric are selected from one or more of polyester, wool, elastic polyester, cotton and spandex.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein, The yarn and guide bar combination is as follows: GB2 uses cotton, GB3 uses elastic polyester.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein, The yarn and guide bar combination is as follows: GB1 uses polyester / wool blended yarn to weave terry pile; GB2 uses cotton, GB3 uses elastic polyester, and GB4 uses spandex to weave the base fabric.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein, The yarn and guide bar combination is as follows: GB1 uses 68Nm~100Nm dull polyester / wool blended yarn to weave terry pile; GB2 uses 40s~60s cotton, GB3 uses 50D~100D dull double-component elastic polyester, and GB4 uses 30D~70D spandex to weave the base fabric of the fabric.

6. A tricot warp-knitted single-face pile fabric prepared by the method according to any one of claims 1-5.

7. The warp-knitted, free-reinforced single-sided fleece fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that The fabric has a weight of 220-420 g / m 2 .

8. A garment containing the tricot warp-knitted single-face pile fabric according to claim 6 or 7.

Images