Processing technology of hemp four-way stretch fabric

Abstract

The application belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a processing technology of hemp four-way stretch fabric. The processing technology comprises the following steps: fabric, singeing, desizing and scouring, oxygen bleaching, dry setting, re-bleaching, liquid ammonia, whitening washing, formaldehyde-free non-ironing, stretching and preshrinking. The formaldehyde-free non-ironing process comprises the following steps: formaldehyde-free non-ironing resin, formaldehyde-free non-ironing catalyst, elastic memory agent and fiber protective agent are used. Cotton package elastic yarn is used in the warp direction of the fabric, and hemp and sorona blended yarn is used in the weft direction. The cotton package elastic yarn is cotton package lycra yarn. Because the liquid ammonia is smaller than the water molecule, the liquid ammonia finishing can rapidly penetrate into the fiber, the crystallinity and the molecular structure of the fiber can be improved, and the non-ironing performance and the shrinkage of the hemp fabric can be improved. The formaldehyde-free non-ironing resin is selected, and through research experiments, the baking-baking washing two processes can be saved, the fabric does not need to be washed, the formaldehyde content of the fabric is less than or equal to 16 PPM, and the formaldehyde capturing agent is not needed in the stretching.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile printing and dyeing technology, and specifically relates to a processing technology for a hemp four-way stretch fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Four-way stretch fabric is elastic in all directions, allowing it to adapt to body movement, stretching and contracting as needed for lightness and comfort. It also maintains the garment's shape, preventing deformation and bulging at the knees and elbows after prolonged wear. While cotton and polyester-cotton four-way stretch fabrics have well-established manufacturing processes, linen four-way stretch fabrics are almost nonexistent on the market. Linen is a natural fiber, extremely resilient but lacking elasticity. Unlike other fabrics that gradually recover their shape after deformation, linen wrinkles immediately upon deformation, severely impacting its wearability. Currently, linen weft-stretch fabrics on the market also suffer from poor elastic recovery.

[0003] Based on the structural characteristics of flax fibers, compared to cotton fibers, flax fibers have a lower cellulose content but higher crystallinity and orientation, resulting in less space for finishing agent molecules to enter and undergo cross-linking reactions with fiber molecules. Furthermore, although degummed, flax fibers have a high wax content; the presence of wax may hinder the contact between finishing agents and fiber molecules, thus affecting the wrinkle-free effect of flax fabrics. Summary of the Invention

[0004] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, the purpose of this invention is to provide a processing technology for linen four-way stretch fabric, filling a market gap in linen four-way stretch fabric. The fabric achieves a wrinkle-free rating of 2.8, combining easy care with the casual feel of linen. It also boasts approximately 12% warp elasticity, 15% weft elasticity, and 65% elastic recovery, solving the problem of fabric bulging after prolonged wear. Research experiments have shown that by adjusting the wrinkle-free processing speed and drying room temperature, the wrinkle-free processing eliminates two steps: baking and washing, thus saving wastewater and exhaust emissions, making the fabric environmentally friendly.

[0005] The processing technology for the hemp four-way stretch fabric described in this invention employs the following processing steps:

[0006] Fabric → singeing → descaling → oxygen bleaching → dry setting → rebleaching → liquid ammonia → whitening wash → formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free → stretching → pre-shrinking;

[0007] The formaldehyde-free, wrinkle-free process involves the use of formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free resin, formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free catalyst, elastic memory agent, and fiber protectant.

[0008] The fabric uses cotton-spun elastic yarn in the warp and linen and solona blended yarn in the weft.

[0009] The cotton-bundled elastic yarn is cotton-bundled Lycra yarn.

[0010] The fabric tightness is 75-90%.

[0011] The dry setting process is as follows: drying room temperature: 180-205℃, machine speed: 30-50m / min, no rolling mill, dry setting, overfeed 10%-30%.

[0012] The liquid ammonia process has the following parameters: vehicle speed: 50-65 m / min, steam chamber temperature: 110-120℃, and processing chamber temperature: 60-70℃.

[0013] The liquid ammonia process can improve the wrinkle-free properties and shrinkage of fabrics, and also improve the post-wash foaming index of linen four-way stretch fabrics.

[0014] The formaldehyde-free and wrinkle-free process includes: formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free resin CLA: 120-200 g / L, formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free catalyst CLB: 12-20 g / L, elastic memory agent 8150A: 5-20 g / L, fiber protectant SF-P: 5-20 g / L, penetrant: 2-4 g / L, overfeed: 10%-30%, machine speed 24-35 m / min, and drying room temperature: 160-170℃.

[0015] CLA is a formaldehyde-free, wrinkle-free resin from Shijiazhuang Federal Kote Chemical Co., Ltd.; CLB is a catalyst for CLA formaldehyde-free, wrinkle-free resin; Elastic Memory Agent 8150A is a commercially available product from Qingdao Ounos Industry & Trade Co., Ltd.; Fiber Protectant SF-P is a commercially available product from Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.; Penetrant SN-10 is a commercially available product from Zhejiang Rihua Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0016] The stretching process includes: softener TF-4865C: 10-30 g / L, penetrant HW: 1-2 g / L, neutralizing acid PH-WS: 1-3 g / L, drying oven temperature: 120-140℃, and machine speed: 65-75 m / min.

[0017] Comparative experiments with several different fabric softeners revealed that TF-4865C fabric softener significantly improves the hand feel of linen four-way stretch fabrics. Among these, TF-4865C fabric softener is a commercially available product from Transfar Group Co., Ltd., HW penetrant is a commercially available product from Anggao Chemical (China) Co., Ltd., and PH-WS neutralizing acid is a commercially available product from Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0018] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0019] 1) The production method is continuous, enabling continuous production of large quantities of goods;

[0020] 2) Because liquid ammonia molecules are smaller than water molecules, liquid ammonia finishing can quickly penetrate into the fibers, which can improve the crystallinity and molecular structure of the fibers, and improve the wrinkle-free properties and shrinkage of linen fabrics.

[0021] 3) The wrinkle-free resin is formaldehyde-free. Through research and experiments, it can save two processes: baking and baking-washing. The fabric does not need to be washed and no formaldehyde scavenging agent is needed during stretching. The formaldehyde content of the fabric is ≤16PPM.

[0022] 4) The stretching material uses TF-4865C, which greatly improves the hand feel of linen four-way stretch fabric, thus enhancing the wearing comfort of the fabric.

[0023] 5) The fabric treated according to this invention has the following test results:

[0024] ① Fracture strength: Test method of ASTM D5034-2009, warp: ≥30Lb, weft: ≥30Lb;

[0025] ② Tear strength: ASTM D1424-2009 test method, warp: ≥1.6Lb, weft: ≥1.6Lb;

[0026] ③ Seam slippage, ASTM D434-1995 test method, warp: ≥20Lb, weft: ≥20Lb;

[0027] ④ Dimensional change rate after washing, AATCC 135(1)III A(i) 3 washes, drying test method, 0~-5%

[0028] ⑤ Elasticity, according to ASTM D3107-2011 test method, warp elongation ≥12%, elastic recovery ≥55%; weft elongation ≥15%, elastic recovery ≥55%;

[0029] ⑥ Wrinkle-free property, AATCC 124-2010 test method, ≥2.8 level;

[0030] ⑦ Formaldehyde, JIS L 1041:2011 / 8.1.4B test method, ≤16PPM. Detailed Implementation

[0031] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the embodiments, but the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto.

[0032] Unless otherwise specified, all raw materials used in the examples were commercially available.

[0033] CLA is a formaldehyde-free, wrinkle-free resin produced by Shijiazhuang Federal Kote Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0034] CLB is a catalyst for CLA formaldehyde-free, wrinkle-free resin;

[0035] Elastic memory agent 8150A is a commercially available product of Qingdao Ounos Industry & Trade Co., Ltd.

[0036] SF-P, a fiber protectant, is a commercially available product of Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0037] Penetrant SN-10 is a commercially available product from Zhejiang Rihua Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0038] Fabric softener TF-4865C is a commercially available product of Transfar Smart Logistics Co., Ltd.

[0039] The penetrant HW is a commercially available product of Angco Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.

[0040] Neutralizing acid PH-WS is a commercially available product of Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0041] Desiccant DS-HT is a commercially available product of Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0042] The desizing extractant RED is a commercially available product of Qingdao Chenxintai Trading Co., Ltd.

[0043] The desizing extractant EX is a commercially available product of Qingdao Chenxintai Trading Co., Ltd.

[0044] Refined Enzyme 601L is a commercially available product of Tianjin Hongliyuan Industry and Trade Co., Ltd.

[0045] Refining agent SA-U is a commercially available product of Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0046] The refining agent CRC is a commercially available product of Angco Chemical (China) Co., Ltd.

[0047] The penetrant WA-X is a commercially available product of Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0048] The chelating agent SQ-A is a commercially available product of Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0049] Degreasing agent TF-109H is a commercially available product of Transfar Smart Logistics Co., Ltd., Weifang Branch.

[0050] The penetrant WA-X is a commercially available product of Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0051] Stabilizer 266 is a commercially available product of Nantong Aor Industry & Trade Co., Ltd.

[0052] CF-200 is a commercially available product of Jiangsu Meide Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0053] BHV is a commercially available product of Shanghai Xinyong Textile Dyeing & Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0054] Example 1

[0055] The processing technology of the linen four-way stretch fabric, after design of the weave specifications, is as follows: fabric: 18-count cotton with Lycra 70D * 21-count linen / Sorona blend * 70 threads / inch * 60 threads / inch; weave: plain weave; tightness: 78.5%.

[0056] Fabric → singeing → descaling → oxygen bleaching → dry setting → rebleaching → liquid ammonia → whitening wash → formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free → stretching → pre-shrinking to obtain linen four-way stretch fabric.

[0057] The singeing process: machine speed: 100m / min, flame intensity: 20mbar, upright singeing;

[0058] The desizing and sizing process is as follows: Desizing speed: 80m / min; Desizing process: Desizing enzyme DS-HT: 6g / L, Penetrant: 5g / L, Desizing extractant RED:EX (1:3): 4g / L, Refining enzyme 601L: 2.5g / L, Fabric stacking time: 20min; Scouring process: Caustic soda: 20g / L, Refining agent (SA-U): 6g / L, Refining agent CRC: 8g / L, WA-X (Penetrant): 8g / L, Chelating agent (SQ-A): 2g / L, Degreasing agent TF-109H: 4g / L, Fabric stacking time: 25min; Steaming oven temperature: 100℃.

[0059] The oxygen bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 70m / min, fabric stacking time: 25min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20g / L, caustic soda: 4g / L, chelating agent (SQ-A): 10g / L, penetrant (WA-X): 6g / L, stabilizer (266): 7g / L, steam oven temperature: 101℃.

[0060] The dry setting process is as follows: drying oven temperature: 190℃, machine speed: 30m / min, no rolling mill, dry setting, overfeed 30%;

[0061] The re-bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 80m / min, fabric stacking time: 15min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20mL / kg, caustic soda: 20mL / kg, chelating agent (SQ-A): 8mL / kg, penetrant (WA-X:R-110:1:1): 4mL / kg, stabilizer (266): 5mL / kg, steam oven temperature: 101℃;

[0062] The liquid ammonia process has the following parameters: vehicle speed: 65 m / min, steam chamber temperature: 120°C, and processing chamber temperature: 60°C.

[0063] The whitening washing process has the following parameters: machine speed: 52m / min, CF-200: 14g / L, BHV: 2g / L, and steam oven temperature: 98℃.

[0064] The formaldehyde-free and wrinkle-free process includes: formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free resin CLA: 120g / L, formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free catalyst CLB: 12g / L, elastic memory agent 8150A: 5g / L, fiber protectant SF-P: 10g / L, penetrant: 3g / L, overfeed: 20%, machine speed 24m / min, drying room temperature: 160℃.

[0065] The stretching process: softener TF-4865C: 10g / L; penetrant HW: 1g / L; neutralizing acid PH-WS: 1g / L. Drying oven temperature: 130℃; machine speed: 70m / min.

[0066] The pre-shrinking process has the following parameters: machine speed: 60m / min, rubber blanket temperature: 100℃, and felt blanket temperature: 110℃.

[0067] The finished fabric underwent testing, and the results are as follows:

[0068] ① Fracture strength: Test method of ASTM D5034-2009, warp: 59Lb, weft: 43Lb;

[0069] ② Tear strength: ASTM D1424-2009 test method, warp: 6.3Lb, weft: 4.1Lb;

[0070] ③Seal slippage, ASTM D434-1995 test method, warp: 29Lb, weft: 54Lb;

[0071] ④ Dimensional change rate after washing, AATCC 135(1)III A(i) 3 washes, warp: -4.8%, weft: -1.8%;

[0072] ⑤ Elasticity, according to ASTM D3107-2011 test method, the radial elastic elongation is 17.6% and the elastic recovery is 85.2%;

[0073] The latitudinal elastic elongation is 19%, and the elastic recovery is 68%.

[0074] ⑥ Wrinkle-free property, AATCC 124-2010 test method, level 2.8;

[0075] ⑦ Formaldehyde, JIS L 1041:2011 / 8.1.4B test method: 10 PPM.

[0076] Example 2

[0077] The processing technology of the linen four-way stretch fabric, after design of the weave specifications, is as follows: fabric: 18-count cotton with Lycra 70D * 21-count linen / Sorona blend * 90 threads / inch * 60 threads / inch; weave: 2 / 1 left twill; tightness: 87.7%.

[0078] The warp and weft of hemp and blended hemp yarns are used to obtain hemp four-way stretch fabric through singeing → descaling → oxygen bleaching → dry setting → rebleaching → liquid ammonia → whitening wash → formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free → stretching → pre-shrinking.

[0079] The singeing process: machine speed: 100m / min, flame intensity: 20mbar, upright singeing;

[0080] The desizing and sizing process is as follows: Desizing speed: 80m / min; Desizing process: Desizing enzyme DS-HT: 6g / L, Penetrant: 5g / L, Desizing extractant RED:EX (1:3): 4g / L, Refining enzyme 601L: 2.5g / L, Fabric stacking time: 20min; Scouring process: Caustic soda: 20g / L, Refining agent (SA-U): 6g / L, Refining agent CRC: 8g / L, WA-X (Penetrant): 8g / L, Chelating agent (SQ-A): 2g / L, Degreasing agent TF-109H: 4g / L, Fabric stacking time: 25min; Steaming oven temperature: 100℃.

[0081] The oxygen bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 70m / min, fabric stacking time: 25min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20g / L, caustic soda: 4g / L, chelating agent (SQ-A): 10g / L, penetrant (WA-X): 6g / L, stabilizer (266): 7g / L, steam oven temperature: 101℃.

[0082] The dry setting process is as follows: drying oven temperature: 195℃, machine speed: 30m / min, no rolling mill, dry setting, overfeed 20%;

[0083] The re-bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 80m / min, fabric stacking time: 15min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20mL / kg, caustic soda: 20mL / kg, chelating agent (SQ-A): 8mL / kg, penetrant (WA-X:R-110:1:1): 4mL / kg, stabilizer (266): 5mL / kg, steam oven temperature: 101℃;

[0084] The liquid ammonia process has the following parameters: vehicle speed: 60 m / min, steam chamber temperature: 120°C, and processing chamber temperature: 60°C.

[0085] The whitening washing process has the following parameters: machine speed: 52m / min, CF-200: 14g / L, BHV: 2g / L, and steam oven temperature: 98℃.

[0086] The formaldehyde-free and wrinkle-free process includes: formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free resin CLA: 160g / L, formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free catalyst CLB: 16g / L, elastic memory agent 8150A: 10g / L, fiber protectant SF-P: 20g / L, penetrant: 3g / L, overfeed: 20%, machine speed 24m / min, drying room temperature: 170℃.

[0087] The stretching process: softener TF-4865C: 20g / L, penetrant HW: 2g / L, neutralizing acid PH-WS: 1.5g / L; drying oven temperature: 130℃, machine speed: 70m / min;

[0088] The pre-shrinking process has the following parameters: machine speed: 60m / min, rubber blanket temperature: 100℃, and felt blanket temperature: 110℃.

[0089] The finished fabric was tested and its various indicators are as follows:

[0090] ① Fracture strength: Test method of ASTM D5034-2009, warp: 71Lb, weft: 45Lb;

[0091] ② Tear strength: ASTM D1424-2009 test method, warp: 8.5Lb, weft: 5.0Lb;

[0092] ③ Seam slippage, ASTM D434-1995 test method, warp: 28Lb, weft: 63Lb;

[0093] ④ Dimensional change rate after washing, AATCC 135(1)III A(i) 3 washes, warp: -4.4%, weft: -0.6%;

[0094] ⑤ Elasticity, according to ASTM D3107-2011 test method, the warp elastic elongation is 14% and the elastic recovery is 85%; the weft elastic elongation is 17.4% and the elastic recovery is 69%.

[0095] ⑥ Wrinkle-free property, AATCC 124-2010 test method, level 3.0;

[0096] ⑦ Formaldehyde, JIS L 1041:2011 / 8.1.4B test method 8 PPM.

[0097] Comparative Example 1

[0098] The aforementioned processing technology, based on the designed fabric specifications, is as follows: 18-count cotton with Lycra 70D, 21-count linen / Sorona blend with 90 threads / inch and 60 threads / inch weave; 2 / 1 left twill; density: 87.7%.

[0099] Fabric → singeing → descaling → oxygen bleaching → dry setting → rebleaching → whitening wash → stretching → pre-shrinking to obtain linen four-way stretch fabric.

[0100] The singeing process: machine speed: 100m / min, flame intensity: 20mbar, upright singeing;

[0101] The desizing and sizing process is as follows: Desizing speed: 80m / min; Desizing process: Desizing enzyme DS-HT: 6g / L, Penetrant: 5g / L, Desizing extractant RED:EX (1:3): 4g / L, Refining enzyme 601L: 2.5g / L, Fabric stacking time: 20min; Scouring process: Caustic soda: 20g / L, Refining agent (SA-U): 6g / L, Refining agent CRC: 8g / L, WA-X (Penetrant): 8g / L, Chelating agent (SQ-A): 2g / L, Degreasing agent TF-109H: 4g / L, Fabric stacking time: 25min; Steaming oven temperature: 100℃.

[0102] The oxygen bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 70m / min, fabric stacking time: 25min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20g / L, caustic soda: 4g / L, chelating agent (SQ-A): 10g / L, penetrant (WA-X): 6g / L, stabilizer (266): 7g / L, steam oven temperature: 101℃.

[0103] The dry setting process is as follows: drying room temperature: 195℃, machine speed: 30m / min, no rolling mill, dry setting, overfeed 20%;

[0104] The re-bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 80m / min, fabric stacking time: 15min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20mL / kg, caustic soda: 20mL / kg, chelating agent (SQ-A): 8mL / kg, penetrant (WA-X:R-110:1:1): 4mL / kg, stabilizer (266): 5mL / kg, steam oven temperature: 101℃;

[0105] The whitening washing process has the following parameters: machine speed: 52m / min, CF-200: 14g / L, BHV: 2g / L, and steam oven temperature: 98℃.

[0106] The stretching process includes: softener TF-4865C: 20g / L, penetrant HW: 2g / L, neutralizing acid PH-WS: 1.5g / L. Drying oven temperature: 130℃, machine speed: 70m / min.

[0107] The pre-shrinking process has the following parameters: machine speed: 60m / min, rubber blanket temperature: 100℃, and felt blanket temperature: 110℃.

[0108] The finished fabric was tested and its various indicators are as follows:

[0109] ① Fracture strength: ASTM D5034-2009 test method, warp: 85Lb, weft: 62Lb;

[0110] ② Tear strength: ASTM D1424-2009 test method, warp: 7.6Lb, weft: 4.5Lb;

[0111] ③ Seam slippage, ASTM D434-1995 test method, warp: 39Lb, weft: 78Lb;

[0112] ④ Dimensional change rate after washing, AATCC 135(1)III A(i) 3 washes, warp: -7.5%, weft: -4.8%;

[0113] ⑤ Elasticity, according to ASTM D3107-2011 test method, the warp elastic elongation is 18% and the elastic recovery is 60%; the weft elastic elongation is 19.6% and the elastic recovery is 50%.

[0114] ⑥ Wrinkle-free property: According to AATCC 124-2010 test method, there is no wrinkle-free effect;

[0115] Comparative Example 2

[0116] The aforementioned processing technology, based on the designed fabric specifications, is as follows: 18-count cotton with Lycra 70D * 21-count linen / Sorona blend * 90 threads / inch * 60 threads / inch; weave: 2 / 1 left twill; tightness: 87.7%.

[0117] Fabric → singeing → descaling → oxygen bleaching → dry setting → rebleaching → liquid ammonia → whitening wash → stretching → pre-shrinking to obtain linen four-way stretch fabric.

[0118] The singeing process: machine speed: 100m / min, flame intensity: 20mbar, upright singeing;

[0119] The desizing and sizing process is as follows: Desizing speed: 80m / min; Desizing process: Desizing enzyme DS-HT: 6g / L, Penetrant: 5g / L, Desizing extractant RED:EX (1:3): 4g / L, Refining enzyme 601L: 2.5g / L, Fabric stacking time: 20min; Scouring process: Caustic soda: 20g / L, Refining agent (SA-U): 6g / L, Refining agent CRC: 8g / L, WA-X (Penetrant): 8g / L, Chelating agent (SQ-A): 2g / L, Degreasing agent TF-109H: 4g / L, Fabric stacking time: 25min; Steaming oven temperature: 100℃.

[0120] The oxygen bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 70m / min, fabric stacking time: 25min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20g / L, caustic soda: 4g / L, chelating agent (SQ-A): 10g / L, penetrant (WA-X): 6g / L, stabilizer (266): 7g / L, steam oven temperature: 101℃.

[0121] The dry setting process is as follows: drying oven temperature: 195℃, machine speed: 30m / min, no rolling mill, dry setting, overfeed 20%;

[0122] The re-bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 80m / min, fabric stacking time: 15min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20mL / kg, caustic soda: 20mL / kg, chelating agent (SQ-A): 8mL / kg, penetrant (WA-X:R-110:1:1): 4mL / kg, stabilizer (266): 5mL / kg, steam oven temperature: 101℃;

[0123] The liquid ammonia process has the following parameters: vehicle speed: 65 m / min, steam chamber temperature: 120°C, and processing chamber temperature: 60°C.

[0124] The whitening washing process has the following parameters: machine speed: 52m / min, CF-200: 14g / L, BHV: 2g / L, and steam oven temperature: 98℃.

[0125] The stretching process includes: softener TF-4865C: 20g / L, penetrant HW: 2g / L, neutralizing acid PH-WS: 1.5g / L; drying oven temperature: 130℃, machine speed: 70m / min;

[0126] The pre-shrinking process has the following parameters: machine speed: 60m / min, rubber blanket temperature: 100℃, and felt blanket temperature: 110℃.

[0127] The finished fabric was tested and its various indicators are as follows:

[0128] ① Fracture strength: Test method of ASTM D5034-2009, warp: 87Lb, weft: 65Lb;

[0129] ② Tear strength: ASTM D1424-2009 test method, warp: 7.3Lb, weft: 4.2Lb;

[0130] ③ Seam slippage, ASTM D434-1995 test method, warp: 40Lb, weft: 79Lb;

[0131] ④ Dimensional change rate after washing, AATCC 135(1)III A(i) 3 washes, warp: -6.8%, weft: -4.3%;

[0132] ⑤ Elasticity, according to ASTM D3107-2011 test method, the warp elastic elongation is 16% and the elastic recovery is 65%; the weft elastic elongation is 20% and the elastic recovery is 52%.

[0133] ⑥ Wrinkle-free property: According to AATCC 124-2010 test method, there is no wrinkle-free effect;

[0134] Comparative Example 3

[0135] The aforementioned processing technology, based on the designed fabric specifications, is as follows: 18-count cotton with Lycra 70D * 21-count linen / Sorona blend * 90 threads / inch * 60 threads / inch; weave: 2 / 1 left twill; tightness: 87.7%.

[0136] Fabric → singeing → descaling → oxygen bleaching → dry setting → rebleaching → whitening wash → formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free → stretching → pre-shrinking to obtain linen four-way stretch fabric.

[0137] The singeing process: machine speed: 100m / min, flame intensity: 20mbar, upright singeing;

[0138] The desizing and sizing process is as follows: Desizing speed: 80m / min; Desizing process: Desizing enzyme DS-HT: 6g / L, Penetrant: 5g / L, Desizing extractant RED:EX (1:3): 4g / L, Refining enzyme 601L: 2.5g / L, Fabric stacking time: 20min; Scouring process: Caustic soda: 20g / L, Refining agent (SA-U): 6g / L, Refining agent CRC: 8g / L, WA-X (Penetrant): 8g / L, Chelating agent (SQ-A): 2g / L, Degreasing agent TF-109H: 4g / L, Fabric stacking time: 25min; Steaming oven temperature: 100℃.

[0139] The oxygen bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 70m / min, fabric stacking time: 25min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20g / L, caustic soda: 4g / L, chelating agent (SQ-A): 10g / L, penetrant (WA-X): 6g / L, stabilizer (266): 7g / L, steam oven temperature: 101℃.

[0140] The dry setting process is as follows: drying room temperature: 195℃, machine speed: 30m / min, no rolling mill, dry setting, overfeed 20%;

[0141] The re-bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 80m / min, fabric stacking time: 15min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20mL / kg, caustic soda: 20mL / kg, chelating agent (SQ-A): 8mL / kg, penetrant (WA-X:R-110:1:1): 4mL / kg, stabilizer (266): 5mL / kg, steam oven temperature: 101℃;

[0142] The whitening washing process has the following parameters: machine speed: 52m / min, CF-200: 14g / L, BHV: 2g / L, and steam oven temperature: 98℃.

[0143] The formaldehyde-free and wrinkle-free process includes: formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free resin CLA: 160g / L, formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free catalyst CLB: 16g / L, elastic memory agent 8150A: 10g / L, fiber protectant SF-P: 20g / L, penetrant: 3g / L, overfeed: 20%, machine speed 24m / min, drying room temperature: 170℃.

[0144] The stretching process: softener TF-4865C: 20g / L, penetrant HW: 2g / L, neutralizing acid PH-WS: 1.5g / L, drying oven temperature: 130℃, machine speed: 70m / min;

[0145] The pre-shrinking process has the following parameters: machine speed: 60m / min, rubber blanket temperature: 100℃, and felt blanket temperature: 110℃.

[0146] The finished fabric was tested and its various indicators are as follows:

[0147] ① Fracture strength: ASTM D5034-2009 test method, warp: 62Lb, weft: 38Lb;

[0148] ② Tear strength: ASTM D1424-2009 test method, warp: 7.4Lb, weft: 3.9Lb;

[0149] ③ Seam slippage, ASTM D434-1995 test method, warp: 30Lb, weft: 54Lb;

[0150] ④ Dimensional change rate after washing, AATCC 135(1)III A(i) 3 washes, warp: -5.8%, weft: -4.0%;

[0151] ⑤ Elasticity, according to ASTM D3107-2011 test method, the warp elastic elongation is 16% and the elastic recovery is 70%; the weft elastic elongation is 18% and the elastic recovery is 58%.

[0152] ⑥ Wrinkle-free property, AATCC 124-2010 test method, level 2.5;

[0153] ⑦ Formaldehyde, JIS L 1041:2011 / 8.1.4B test method, 6 PPM.

[0154] Comparative Example 4

[0155] The aforementioned processing technology, based on the design of the fabric specifications, is as follows: 21-count linen / solona blend * 70 threads / inch * 60 threads / inch linen / solona blend; weave: plain weave; tightness: 75%.

[0156] Fabric → singeing → descaling → oxygen bleaching → dry setting → rebleaching → liquid ammonia → whitening wash → formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free → stretching → pre-shrinking to obtain linen four-way stretch fabric.

[0157] The singeing process: machine speed: 100m / min, flame intensity: 20mbar, upright singeing;

[0158] The desizing and sizing process is as follows: Desizing speed: 80m / min; Desizing process: Desizing enzyme DS-HT: 6g / L, Penetrant: 5g / L, Desizing extractant RED:EX (1:3): 4g / L, Refining enzyme 601L: 2.5g / L, Fabric stacking time: 20min; Scouring process: Caustic soda: 20g / L, Refining agent (SA-U): 6g / L, Refining agent CRC: 8g / L, WA-X (Penetrant): 8g / L, Chelating agent (SQ-A): 2g / L, Degreasing agent TF-109H: 4g / L, Fabric stacking time: 25min; Steaming oven temperature: 100℃.

[0159] The oxygen bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 70m / min, fabric stacking time: 25min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20g / L, caustic soda: 4g / L, chelating agent (SQ-A): 10g / L, penetrant (WA-X): 6g / L, stabilizer (266): 7g / L, steam oven temperature: 101℃.

[0160] The dry setting process is as follows: drying room temperature: 190℃, machine speed: 30m / min, no rolling mill, dry setting, overfeed 30%;

[0161] The re-bleaching process is as follows: machine speed: 80m / min, fabric stacking time: 15min, hydrogen peroxide (27.5%): 20mL / kg, caustic soda: 20mL / kg, chelating agent (SQ-A): 8mL / kg, penetrant (WA-X:R-110:1:1): 4mL / kg, stabilizer (266): 5mL / kg, steam oven temperature: 101℃;

[0162] The liquid ammonia process has the following parameters: vehicle speed: 65 m / min, steam chamber temperature: 120°C, and processing chamber temperature: 60°C.

[0163] The whitening washing process has the following parameters: machine speed: 52m / min, CF-200: 14g / L, BHV: 2g / L, and steam oven temperature: 98℃.

[0164] The formaldehyde-free and wrinkle-free process includes: formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free resin CLA: 120g / L, formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free catalyst CLB: 12g / L, elastic memory agent 8150A: 5g / L, fiber protectant SF-P: 10g / L, penetrant: 3g / L, overfeed: 20%, machine speed 24m / min, drying room temperature: 160℃.

[0165] The stretching process: softener TF-4865C: 10g / L, penetrant HW: 1g / L, neutralizing acid PH-WS: 1g / L, drying oven temperature: 130℃, machine speed: 70m / min;

[0166] The pre-shrinking process has the following parameters: machine speed: 60m / min, rubber blanket temperature: 100℃, and felt blanket temperature: 110℃.

[0167] The finished fabric was tested and its various indicators are as follows:

[0168] ① Fracture strength: Test method of ASTM D5034-2009, warp: 41Lb, weft: 43Lb;

[0169] ② Tear strength: ASTM D1424-2009 test method, warp: 4.6Lb, weft: 4.3Lb;

[0170] ③ Seam slippage, ASTM D434-1995 test method, warp: 32Lb, weft: 23Lb;

[0171] ④ Dimensional change rate after washing, AATCC 135(1)III A(i) 3 washes, warp: -0.2%, weft: -1%;

[0172] ⑤ Elasticity, according to ASTM D3107-2011 test method, the warp elastic elongation is 4% and the elastic recovery is 52%; the weft elastic elongation is 14.8% and the elastic recovery is 65%.

[0173] ⑥ Wrinkle-free property, AATCC 124-2010 test method, level 2.8;

[0174] ⑦ Formaldehyde, JIS L 1041:2011 / 8.1.4B test method 10 PPM.

[0175] The fabric bubbled excessively after washing.

[0176] Table 1 Comparison of Examples and Comparative Examples

[0177]

Claims

1. A processing technology for a linen four-way stretch fabric, characterized in that, The following processing steps are adopted: Fabric → singeing → descaling → oxygen bleaching → dry setting → rebleaching → liquid ammonia → whitening wash → formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free → stretching → pre-shrinking; The formaldehyde-free and wrinkle-free process involves the use of formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free resin, formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free catalyst, elastic memory agent, and fiber protectant. The fabric uses cotton-spun elastic yarn in the warp and linen and solona blended yarn in the weft. The dry setting process is as follows: drying oven temperature: 180~205℃, machine speed: 30~50m / min, no rolling mill, dry setting, overfeed 10%~30%; The liquid ammonia process has the following parameters: vehicle speed: 50~65m / min, steam chamber temperature: 110~120℃, and processing chamber temperature: 60~70℃. The formaldehyde-free and wrinkle-free process includes: formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free resin CLA: 120~200g / L, formaldehyde-free wrinkle-free catalyst CLB: 12~20g / L, elastic memory agent 8150A: 5~20g / L, fiber protectant SF-P: 5~20g / L, and penetrant: 2~4g / L. The formaldehyde-free and wrinkle-free process includes: overfeeding: 10% to 30%, vehicle speed 24 to 35 m / min, and drying room temperature: 160 to 170℃. The fabric tightness is 75-90%.

2. The processing technology of the hemp four-way stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The cotton-bundled elastic yarn is cotton-bundled Lycra yarn.

3. The processing technology of the hemp four-way stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The stretching process includes: softener TF-4865C: 10~30g / L, penetrant HW: 1~2g / L, neutralizing acid PH-WS: 1~3g / L.

4. The processing technology of the hemp four-way stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The stretching process: drying oven temperature: 120~140℃, machine speed: 65~75m / min.

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