A process for weaving a leno fabric

Abstract

The application provides a kind of gauze weaving process, belongs to the technical field of silk fabric. The warp selects 3-5 20 / 22D mulberry silk, the weft selects 5-8 20 / 22D mulberry silk, forms the untwisted warp and weft by traditional shuttle loom and small bobbin twisting equipment, the ground of fabric is plain weave, the pattern of disc twill is 1 / 5Z diagonal, the warp density is 50-64 root / cm, the weft density is 30-42 root / cm, and the warp is woven by electronic jacquard machine. The above process not only realizes the reenactment of gauze fabric, but also realizes the modern loom weaving of gauze fabric, the weaving efficiency is high, and the weaving period of each meter of fabric is short.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This application relates to a brocade weaving process, belonging to the field of silk fabric technology. Background Technology

[0002] Liaoling, as a fine type of damask fabric in the Tang Dynasty, was highly regarded by the imperial family and nobles. It also gained widespread fame through Bai Juyi's vivid description in his poem "Liaoling," which is the most detailed written record discovered to date concerning the production process and style of Tang Dynasty Liaoling. For a long time, people only knew of Liaoling by name but had never seen any actual examples.

[0003] According to the "Archaeological Excavation Report of Famen Temple" compiled by the Shaanxi Provincial Institute of Archaeology, the inscription on the tombstone of funerary objects unearthed from the underground palace of Famen Temple in the Tang Dynasty records some types of silk fabrics, such as Kefu silk, Liao silk, woven silk, ochre-yellow and dark green silk, fine patterned silk, white patterned silk, and thread silk. Among them, there are "five Liao silk bathrobes (two of each), two Liao silk shadow robes" and "ten Liao silk food cloths." Unfortunately, due to the limitations of current cultural relic preservation technology, a large number of unearthed silk fabrics, including Liao silk, are severely carbonized and cannot be identified. They can only be sealed in a refrigerator and cannot be compared with the names recorded on the tombstone. Therefore, our understanding of Liao silk is still in the process of exploration and discovery.

[0004] In their article "A Preliminary Exploration of the Craftsmanship and Pattern Characteristics of Tang Dynasty Liaoling", Zhao Hansheng et al. used information revealed in Bai Juyi's poem "Liaoling" as a starting point to discuss the characteristics, weaving methods, and some related issues of this type of fabric. They believed that its weaving method was similar to the "picking flower" technique, which uses the shuttle method to form patterns. However, because the silk threads used were too fine and the patterns were too complicated, even after throwing a thousand shuttles, the fabric was still less than a foot long. It was mostly formed by hand, and no organic weaving technique has been observed.

[0005] In his recently published book, *Searching for Liaoling: Bai Juyi's Poem on Liaoling and Tang Dynasty Silk*, Professor Zhao Feng, after years of research, comprehensively traced the name, craftsmanship, system, and socio-cultural aspects of Liaoling, from the poem to the artifacts themselves. He successfully recreated the blue and green spring water colors of Liaoling through dyeing techniques (https: / / cul.sohu.com / a / 719222746_562249). However, the book does not disclose details about the weaving process, which prevents the revival and, more importantly, the promotion of Liaoling. Summary of the Invention

[0006] In view of this, this application provides a ling reweaving process, which not only enables the machine weaving of this special fabric, allowing it to be woven quickly, but also preserves its exquisite and flowing appearance, without being limited by the length of the fabric.

[0007] Specifically, this application is implemented through the following scheme: A brocade weaving technique, the steps of which are as follows: Step 1, Select the raw material for the silk thread: The warp threads are made of 3 to 5 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk, and the weft threads are made of 5 to 8 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk. They are processed into untwisted warp and weft threads using traditional shuttle iron looms and small bobbins.

[0008] Step 2, Selection of density and tissue The fabric ground is plain weave, and the coiled ribbon pattern is 1 / 5Z twill weave. The warp density is 50-64 threads / cm, and the weft density is 30-42 threads / cm.

[0009] Step 3, Weaving The electronic jacquard loom is used for warp weaving at a speed of 180-250 revolutions per minute, with 1000-5000 jacquard stitches to achieve the weaving of brocade fabrics.

[0010] The above-mentioned process enables the machine-woven replication of the special fabric Liaoling, which not only expands the range of silk fabrics but also promotes the application of Liaoling.

[0011] Furthermore, as a preferred option: The processing technology of the untwisted warp is as follows: using a single 20 / 22D mulberry silk as raw material, 3 to 5 mulberry silks are threaded onto the same heddle to form 3 to 5 20 / 22D untwisted warp threads.

[0012] The processing technology of the untwisted weft yarn is as follows: first, 2 to 4 20 / 22D yarns are combined on a yarn combining machine, then 1 to 2 sets of combined yarns are combined with 1 to 2 20 / 22D yarns and wound onto a yarn combining bobbin to form an untwisted weft yarn.

[0013] The brocade fabric is a bathrobe, made of 60-120D mulberry silk. The warp threads are 3-4 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk, and the weft threads are 5-6 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk. The machine speed is 180-200 revolutions per minute, the jacquard stitch count is 4000-5000 stitches, the warp density is 58-64 threads / cm, and the weft density is 31-35 threads / cm. More preferably, the weaving parameters of the bathrobe are: 5120 electronic jacquard machine with 4800 jacquard stitches, a warp density of 62.5 threads / cm, a pattern width of 76.8 cm, two patterns, a centered 60 cm × 66 cm coiled ribbon pattern, an inner fabric width of 154 cm, and a front width of 156 cm.

[0014] The brocade fabric is a silk scarf made of 60-120D mulberry silk. The warp threads are 4-5 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk, and the weft threads are 6-8 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk. The machine speed is 180-200 revolutions per minute. The jacquard pattern has 1000-4000 stitches, a density of 50-55 threads / cm, and a weft density of 30-34 threads / cm.

[0015] Even better, the scarves come in two sizes: A large silk scarf with a design size of 120 cm × 120 cm: a single pattern is 40 cm long, and there are 3 repeats on each side and top and bottom of the scarf. There are 2 cm seams on each side and top and bottom. It is woven on a No. 2688 electronic jacquard loom with 2160 stitches for the jacquard pattern. The warp density is 55 threads / cm, the pattern width is 39.3 cm, there are 7 patterns, there are no seams on the left and right sides, it is double-width, the inner width of the fabric is 138 cm, and the front width is 140 cm. The weft density is set at a ratio of 5:3, with a weft density of 33 shuttles (i.e., 33 threads / cm). There are 2 cm seams on the top and bottom every 3 repeats. There are 4092 weft threads in one scarf.

[0016] Another design is a small silk scarf measuring 60cm x 60cm: each pattern is 20cm long, with 3 repeats on each side and top / bottom of the scarf, and 2cm seams on each side and top / bottom. It is woven on a 1400-gauge electronic jacquard loom with 1168 stitches for the jacquard pattern, a warp density of 50 threads / cm, a pattern width of 23.36cm, 6.5 patterns, an inner fabric width of 152cm, and a front width of 154cm. The weft density is set at a 5:3 ratio, with 30 shuttles (30 threads / cm). There are no seams on the top, bottom, left, or right sides, and the scarf has 2102 weft threads. This small silk scarf can be used as a scarf or as a book cover material.

[0017] The above process enables the weaving of brocade for different products such as bathrobes and scarves. Attached Figure Description

[0018] Figure 1 To create a pattern for the coiled ribbon design used in this case; Figure 2 This is an illustration of the finished product obtained in Example 1 (Spring Water Green). Figure 3 This is an illustration of another form of the finished product obtained in Example 1 (Spring Water Green). Figure 4 This is an illustration of how it will look when worn (Spring Water Green). Figure 5 The image shows the finished product obtained in Example 1 (crimson red). Figure 6 This is an illustration of the effect of the large silk scarf obtained in Example 2 (Spring Water Blue); Figure 7 The image shows the effect of the small scarf / book cover obtained in Example 2 (refined white). Implementation

[0019] Example

[0020] This embodiment uses a bathrobe as the finished product, and the steps of its brocade weaving process are as follows: Step 1, Select the raw material for the silk thread: The warp threads are made of 3 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk, and the weft threads are made of 5 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk. They are processed into untwisted warp and weft threads using traditional shuttle iron looms and small bobbins.

[0021] Conventional silk threads have twist and cohesion, preventing problems such as loosening of the threads and pilling of the fabric during high-speed weft insertion. This case uses the following process to achieve the weaving of untwisted warp and weft yarns and solve the loosening problem caused by untwisting: three single 20 / 22D mulberry silk threads are threaded into the same heddle to form untwisted warp yarn; two 20 / 22D threads are combined in a doubling machine to obtain 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarn, and the two 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarns are then combined with one 20 / 22D thread and wound onto a doubling bobbin to obtain untwisted weft yarn.

[0022] Step 2, Selection of density and tissue Based on the weaving density and structure standards of the brocade sample unearthed from Famen Temple, the fabric to be woven is to have a plain weave ground and a 1 / 5Z twill pattern. The warp density is 62.5 threads / cm, and the weft density is selected at 31 threads / cm according to a 2:1 ratio.

[0023] Step 3, Setting up computer parameters The fabric is woven using a No. 5120 electronic jacquard loom with 4800 jacquard stitches, a speed of 200 rpm, a warp density of 62.5 threads / cm, a pattern width of 76.8 cm, 2 patterns, an inner width of 154 cm, a front width of 156 cm, and a centered size of 60 cm × 66 cm for the coiled ribbon pattern.

[0024] A comparison of the finished product obtained through the above process with the brocade unearthed from the underground palace of Famen Temple is shown in the image below. Figure 1 As shown: This project not only achieved the weaving of the Liaoling bathrobe, with a weaving time of approximately 15.5 hours per meter of fabric, but also achieved the same fabric appearance effect as the Famen Temple Pantao Liaoling, giving the fabric a flowing feel, regardless of the light color ( Figure 2 , 3 Is the finished spring-green silk bathrobe (made using the process in Example 1) or a dark color? Figure 5 Both are finished crimson silk bathrobes made using the same technique. Viewed from different angles, the fabric presents a flowing, iridescent effect. Figure 4 (Wearing effect and luster of the Spring Water Green Silk Bathrobe under the process of Example 1)

[0025] Example

[0026] This embodiment uses a silk scarf as the finished product, and the steps of its brocade weaving process are as follows: Step 1, Select the raw material for the silk thread: Considering the performance requirements of the finished silk scarf in terms of tearing and slippage, four 20 / 22D mulberry silk threads are selected for the warp and six 20 / 22D mulberry silk threads are selected for the weft.

[0027] The warp is untwisted: a single 20 / 22D mulberry silk, four of which are threaded into the same heddle to form an untwisted warp; the weft is untwisted: two 20 / 22D yarns are combined on a doubling machine to obtain a 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarn, and the two sets of 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarns are then combined with two 20 / 22D yarns and wound onto a doubling bobbin to obtain an untwisted weft.

[0028] Step 2, Selection of density and tissue Based on the weaving density and structure standards of the silk brocade samples unearthed from Famen Temple, the warp density of the large silk scarf (120 cm × 120 cm) is 55 threads / cm, and the weft density is selected at 33 threads / cm according to a 5:3 ratio; the warp density of the small silk scarf (60 cm × 60 cm) is 50 threads / cm, and the weft density is selected at 30 threads / cm according to a 5:3 ratio.

[0029] Step 3, Setting up computer parameters Large silk scarf: The fabric is woven on a No. 2688 electronic jacquard loom with 2160 stitches for the jacquard pattern. The warp density is 55 threads / cm, the pattern width is 39.3cm, with 7 patterns, no seam allowance on the left and right sides, and it is double-width. The inner width of the fabric is 138cm, and the front width is 140cm. The weft density is 33 shuttles per 5:3 ratio, with a 2cm seam allowance at the top and bottom every 3 cycles. One scarf has 4092 weft threads.

[0030] Small silk scarf: The loom uses a No. 1400 electronic jacquard machine for warp weaving, with 1168 jacquard stitches, a warp density of 50 threads / cm, a pattern width of 23.36 cm, 6.5 patterns, an inner fabric width of 152 cm, and a front width of 154 cm. The weft density is 30 shuttles per stitch (5:3 ratio), with no seams on the top, bottom, left, or right sides. Each scarf has 2102 weft threads.

[0031] In the finished product of this embodiment, the large silk scarf has a single pattern of 40 cm, with 3 repeats on each side and top and bottom, and 2 cm seams on each side and top and bottom; the small silk scarf has a single pattern of 20 cm, with 3 repeats on each side and top and bottom, and 2 cm seams on each side and top and bottom. The small silk scarf can be used as a decorative scarf or as a book cover.

[0032] The resulting finished product is as follows Figure 6 (Large silk scarf, spring water blue) Figure 7 (Small silk scarf, undyed white silk) As shown, this case not only realizes the weaving of the silk scarf, but also the weaving time for each meter of fabric is 14 hours. The fabric has a beautiful and elegant appearance and presents a subtle floral effect.

Claims

1. A brocade weaving technique, characterized in that, Using a bathrobe as the finished product, the reweaving steps are as follows: Step 1: Selecting raw materials for the silk threads: The warp threads are made of 3 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk, and the weft threads are made of 5 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk. These are processed using a traditional shuttle loom and a small bobbin-type winding and twisting machine to form untwisted warp and weft threads. Specifically, three single 20 / 22D mulberry silk threads are threaded onto the same heddle to form an untwisted warp thread. Two 20 / 22D threads are combined on a winding machine to obtain a 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarn. These two 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarns are then combined with one 20 / 22D thread and wound onto a winding bobbin to obtain the untwisted weft thread. Step 2, selection of density and structure: The ground of the fabric is plain weave, the coiled weave pattern is 1 / 5Z twill, the warp density is 62.5 threads / cm, and the weft density is 31 threads / cm; Step 3, weaving: Weaving is carried out using a No. 5120 electronic jacquard loom with 4800 jacquard stitches, a speed of 200 revolutions per minute, a warp density of 62.5 threads / cm, a pattern width of 76.8cm, 2 patterns, an inner width of 154cm, a front width of 156cm, and a centered size of 60cm × 66cm for the coiled ribbon pattern.

2. A brocade weaving technique, characterized in that, Using a silk scarf measuring 120cm x 120cm as the finished product, the reweaving steps are as follows: Step 1: Selecting the raw materials for the silk threads: The warp threads are made of 4 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk, and the weft threads are made of 6 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk. The warp threads are untwisted: a single 20 / 22D mulberry silk thread is threaded into the same heddle to form an untwisted warp thread; the weft threads are untwisted: two 20 / 22D threads are combined on a doubling machine to obtain a 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarn. The two sets of 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarns are then combined with two 20 / 22D threads and wound onto a doubling bobbin to obtain the untwisted weft thread. Step 2, selection of density and weave: warp density is 55 threads / cm, and weft density is 33 threads / cm; Step 3, weaving: The 2688 electronic jacquard loom is used for warp weaving. The jacquard pattern has 2160 stitches, a warp density of 55 threads / cm, a pattern width of 39.3cm, 7 patterns, no seam allowance on the left and right sides, double width, inner fabric width of 138cm, and front width of 140cm; weft density of 33 shuttles, with a 2cm seam allowance at the top and bottom every 3 cycles, and 4092 weft threads per scarf.

3. A brocade weaving technique, characterized in that, Using a silk scarf measuring 60cm x 60cm as the finished product, the reweaving steps are as follows: Step 1: Selecting the raw materials for the silk threads: The warp threads are made of 4 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk, and the weft threads are made of 6 strands of 20 / 22D mulberry silk. The warp threads are untwisted: a single 20 / 22D mulberry silk thread is threaded into the same heddle to form an untwisted warp thread; the weft threads are untwisted: two 20 / 22D threads are combined on a doubling machine to obtain a 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarn. The two sets of 2 / 20 / 22D combined yarns are then combined with two 20 / 22D threads and wound onto a doubling bobbin to obtain the untwisted weft thread. Step 2, selection of density and weave: warp density is 50 threads / cm, and weft density is 30 threads / cm; Step 3, weaving: The loom uses a No. 1400 electronic jacquard loom for warp weaving, with 1168 jacquard needles, a warp density of 50 threads / cm, a pattern width of 23.36 cm, 6.5 patterns, an inner width of 152 cm, and a front width of 154 cm; the weft density is 30 shuttles, with no seams on the top, bottom, left, or right, and a total of 2102 weft threads per scarf.

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