Preparation method of gold-woven brocade based on cloud brocade weaving technique
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411700730.2
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-10-27
- Estimated Expiration
- 2044-11-26
AI Technical Summary
[0006]本发明克服了现有技术的不足,提供一种基于云锦织造技艺的织金锦的制备方法,旨在解决现有技术中云锦织造技艺织造的织金锦的金线使用过程中发生磨损或断裂的缺陷
[0022](1)本发明提供了一种基于云锦织造技艺的织金锦的制备方法,将透明丝线与金线固定后使用云锦织造技艺进行织造,在金线从一个纬向转入另一个纬向而进行弯折时将金线进行扭转,扭转螺旋轴线垂直于面料表面,相比于现有技术中的织金锦工艺,能够使得金线具有弹性,并使得与经线之间的连接更加紧密,具有抗冲击能力,能够解决现有技术中云锦织造技艺织造的织金锦的金线使用过程中发生磨损或断裂的缺陷。
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of fabric preparation technology, and more particularly to a method for preparing brocade based on the Yunjin weaving technique. Background Technology
[0002] Gold-embroidered brocade is a type of brocade woven with gold threads or gold foil cut into gold wire as the weft. The use of gold thread in the weave gives the fabric a magnificent, golden sheen. This golden luster is particularly dazzling in sunlight, conveying a sense of luxury and prestige.
[0003] Nanjing brocade weaving employs a unique "continuous warp, discontinuous weft" technique, where the weft threads are composed of an indefinite number of colored velvet segments, resulting in rich colors and exquisite patterns. Furthermore, Nanjing brocade weaving emphasizes color matching and pattern design, utilizing techniques of color shading and harmonization to create beautiful and captivating patterns. The production process of Nanjing brocade is intricate and meticulous, requiring multiple stages including pattern design, knotting, and weaving. The "knotting" process uses the ancient method of knotting ropes to translate patterns and colors into a programmed language before weaving.
[0004] When using the Yunjin weaving technique to weave gold brocade, due to the unique warp-weft discontinuation technique of Yunjin weaving, gold thread needs to be woven through multiple turns and flips in specific areas. After the turns, if the gold brocade is subjected to friction or pulling during use, the gold thread will wear down, and the gold thread has poor elasticity, which will make the bonding ability between the gold thread and the warp thread weak, causing the gold thread to fall off or break.
[0005] Therefore, it is necessary to improve the existing brocade weaving methods to solve the above problems. Summary of the Invention
[0006] This invention overcomes the shortcomings of the prior art and provides a method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on the Yun brocade weaving technique, aiming to solve the defect that the gold thread of gold-woven brocade woven by the Yun brocade weaving technique is worn or broken during use in the prior art.
[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the technical solution adopted by this invention is: a method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques, comprising the following steps:
[0008] S1: Design the gold thread weaving pattern based on the results of the embroidery pattern. The gold thread is used as the weft thread for weaving. The results of the embroidery pattern are used to design the arrangement of the silk threads. The length of the gold thread in each weft direction is arranged according to the gold thread weaving pattern, warp density and warp diameter.
[0009] S2: Based on the length of the gold wire in each weft direction as described in S1, fix the transparent thread onto the gold wire, with the axis direction of the transparent thread aligned with the axis direction of the gold wire, to obtain a composite gold wire;
[0010] S3: The composite gold thread in S2 is woven into Yun brocade according to the embroidery pattern. During the Yun brocade weaving process, when the composite gold thread bends from one weft direction to another, the composite gold thread is twisted, and the twisting spiral axis is perpendicular to the fabric surface.
[0011] S4: The fabric is woven according to the gold thread pattern to obtain a gold-woven brocade based on the Yunjin weaving technique.
[0012] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the thickness of the gold wire in S1 is the same as the thickness of the warp wire, the warp wire is made of silk, and the diameter of the warp wire is 15-20μm.
[0013] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the length of the gold thread in each weft direction in step S1 is the length of the gold thread when it is straightened in each weft direction, and the length of the gold thread in each weft direction is greater than the product of the warp density and the warp diameter of the gold thread in that weft direction.
[0014] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the transparent thread in step S2 is made of either nylon or polyester thread, and the diameter of the transparent thread is smaller than that of the gold thread.
[0015] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the number of transparent threads in S2 is greater than or equal to 2, and there exists a tangent line that is tangent to a plurality of the transparent threads respectively.
[0016] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the twist angle of the composite gold thread in S3 is 360°×n+180°, where n is a positive integer, and the height of the twisting spiral is consistent with the thickness of the fabric.
[0017] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composite gold wire in S3 includes a weft portion and a bent portion. The weft portion is the part of the gold wire that is in the same weft direction, and the bent portion is the part that is bent when turning from one weft direction to another.
[0018] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the gold wire and the transparent wire in the bent portion are spirally parallel to each other on the same horizontal plane, and the transparent wire is located outside the gold wire.
[0019] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the transparent thread and the gold thread in the latitudinal portion are located on the same vertical plane. When the number of latitudinal interlacing points in this latitudinal direction is less than the number of warp interlacing points, the transparent thread is located above the gold thread; otherwise, the transparent thread is located below the gold thread.
[0020] To achieve the above objectives, the second technical solution adopted by the present invention is: a gold-woven brocade based on the Yun brocade weaving technique, which is prepared by a method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on the Yun brocade weaving technique.
[0021] This invention addresses the shortcomings of the prior art and has the following beneficial effects:
[0022] (1) This invention provides a method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yun brocade weaving technique. After fixing transparent silk threads and gold threads, the gold threads are woven using Yun brocade weaving technique. When the gold threads are bent from one weft direction to another, the gold threads are twisted. The twisting spiral axis is perpendicular to the fabric surface. Compared with the gold-woven brocade process in the prior art, the gold threads can be made elastic and the connection between them and the warp threads can be made tighter. It has impact resistance and can solve the defects of wear or breakage of gold threads in gold-woven brocade woven by Yun brocade weaving technique in the prior art.
[0023] (2) In this invention, the transparent thread is made of either nylon thread or polyester thread. The diameter of the transparent thread is smaller than that of the gold thread. The transparent thread has good elasticity and can provide better elastic recovery ability compared with the prior art. When the gold thread is stretched, the nylon thread can help the gold thread return to its original shape, thereby improving the elasticity of the composite gold thread structure.
[0024] (3) In this invention, the transparent thread and the gold thread in the weft section are located on the same vertical plane. When the number of weft interlacing points in this weft direction is less than the number of warp interlacing points, the transparent thread is located above the gold thread. Otherwise, the transparent thread is located below the gold thread. Compared with the prior art, it can reduce local stress concentration, thereby improving the impact resistance of the gold thread and increasing the contact area with the warp, so that the transparent thread can be more fixed with the warp.
[0025] (4) In this invention, the number of transparent threads is greater than or equal to 2, and there is a tangent to several transparent threads. The transparent threads have a dispersing effect. Compared with the prior art, the dispersing effect can reduce the local stress concentration of the gold thread when subjected to external force, thereby reducing the risk of breakage. The tangent to several transparent threads allows the several transparent threads to be fitted together with the warp threads, preventing the composite gold thread from rolling and maintaining its elasticity and impact resistance. Attached Figure Description
[0026] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are only some embodiments recorded in the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.
[0027] Figure 1 This is a flowchart illustrating the method steps of a preferred embodiment of the present invention. Detailed Implementation
[0028] The technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0029] In the description of this application, it should be understood that the terms "center", "longitudinal", "lateral", "upper", "lower", "front", "rear", "left", "right", "vertical", "horizontal", "top", "bottom", "inner", and "outer" indicate the orientation or positional relationship based on the orientation or positional relationship shown in the accompanying drawings. They are used only for the convenience of describing this application and simplifying the description, and do not indicate or imply that the structure or element referred to must have a specific orientation, or be constructed and operated in a specific orientation. Therefore, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of protection of this application.
[0030] Many specific details are set forth in the following description in order to provide a full understanding of the invention. However, the invention may also be practiced in other ways different from those described herein. Therefore, the scope of protection of the invention is not limited to the specific embodiments disclosed below.
[0031] like Figure 1 As shown, a method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques includes the following steps:
[0032] S1: Based on the pattern drawing, design the gold thread weaving pattern. The gold thread is used as the weft thread in the weaving. The pattern drawing results are used to design the yarn arrangement. According to the gold thread weaving pattern, warp density, and warp diameter, the length of the gold thread in each weft direction is arranged. The pattern drawing process involves referring to the drawn design diagram, with the warp threads corresponding to the vertical grids on the design diagram and the weft threads corresponding to the horizontal grids on the design diagram, to create a pattern template. The design pattern is accurately copied onto the "pattern template," ensuring that the accuracy and complexity of the pattern on the fabric are reflected.
[0033] The pattern and design of a fabric are determined through the traditional technique of knotting and embroidery. Knotting and embroidery is an ancient craft that creates patterns by weaving a series of knots and loops.
[0034] S2: Based on the length of the gold thread in each weft direction in S1, a transparent silk thread is fixed to the gold thread, with the axis of the transparent silk thread aligned with the axis of the gold thread, resulting in a composite gold thread. The combination of transparent silk thread and gold thread enhances the fabric's luster and luxurious feel, allowing it to exhibit richer visual effects under different lighting conditions. This combination creates a sense of layering and three-dimensionality in the fabric, especially noticeable in complex brocade weaving.
[0035] S3: The composite gold thread from S2 is woven into Yun brocade according to the pattern of the cross-stitch. During the Yun brocade weaving process, when the composite gold thread bends from one weft direction to another, it is twisted, with the twisting spiral axis perpendicular to the fabric surface. Twisting increases the structural stability and strength of the composite gold thread. Similar to the twisting process where the fiber strip becomes yarn, the twisted composite gold thread causes the outer fibers to be squeezed inward, generating centripetal pressure, thus giving the sliver friction along the length of the fiber and improving the strength of the composite gold thread. The twisted structure also increases the elasticity of the composite gold thread, allowing the fabric to better recover its original shape after being subjected to external forces, improving the fabric's elasticity and resilience. A characteristic of Yun brocade weaving is continuous warp threads and discontinuous weft threads; that is, multiple weft threads can exist simultaneously in one weft direction.
[0036] S4: The fabric is woven according to the gold thread pattern to obtain a gold-woven brocade based on the Yunjin weaving technique.
[0037] The gold wire used is pure gold wire, which is usually drawn from a material with a gold purity of 99.99% or higher. Due to its luster and color uniformity, pure gold wire can provide an excellent decorative effect, showing an extraordinary decorative effect under both natural light and artificial light.
[0038] After fixing the transparent silk thread and the gold thread, the brocade weaving technique is used. When the gold thread bends from one weft direction to another, it is twisted. The twisting spiral axis is perpendicular to the fabric surface, which makes the gold thread elastic and makes the connection between it and the warp thread tighter. It has impact resistance and can solve the defects of wear or breakage of gold thread in the brocade woven by the existing brocade weaving technique.
[0039] In S1, the gold thread is the same thickness as the warp thread, which is made of silk with a diameter of 15-20 μm. This consistency ensures better matching between the gold and warp threads during weaving, reducing wear and breakage caused by uneven thickness. This consistency helps distribute force evenly across the gold thread during weaving, improving the overall structural stability and durability. The smaller diameter of the silk thread allows for a tighter bond between the gold and silk, increasing friction and thus enhancing the gold thread's impact resistance. The finer diameter of the silk also contributes to the flexibility of the gold thread during weaving, enabling it to better adapt to complex patterns and structures.
[0040] In S1, the length of the gold thread in each weft direction is the same as its length when fully extended in that direction. This length is greater than the product of the warp density and warp diameter in that weft direction of the woven portion. Increasing the thread length improves its elasticity to some extent. This is because a longer thread has greater deformation capacity under external force, allowing it to absorb more energy without breaking. When the thread length exceeds the product of warp density and diameter, the thread can better disperse and absorb impact force, thus enhancing the overall structure's impact resistance.
[0041] The transparent threads in S2 are made of either nylon or polyester, with a smaller diameter than the gold thread. These transparent threads offer excellent elasticity and superior resilience. When the gold thread is stretched, the nylon threads help it return to its original shape, thus enhancing the elasticity of the composite gold thread structure. The transparent threads also help the gold thread better disperse and absorb impact forces, reducing direct stress and improving its impact resistance. Polyester and nylon have good wrinkle resistance and shape retention, allowing the composite gold thread to maintain its shape and resist wrinkling, enhancing the fabric's aesthetics and practicality. This also addresses the plastic deformation of the gold thread and strengthens its elastic deformation capabilities.
[0042] The number of transparent threads in S2 is greater than or equal to two, with each tangent line tangent to several transparent threads. Increasing the number of transparent threads allows for a more even distribution of stress on the gold wire. This dispersion reduces localized stress concentration when the gold wire is subjected to external force, thus lowering the risk of breakage. Similar to the sacrificial bond and hidden length strategy in a spider web, the addition of transparent threads mimics this mechanism. Upon impact, the transparent threads can break as sacrificial bonds, while the gold wire extends as a hidden length after the sacrificial bonds break, further dissipating energy and reducing the accumulation of elastic potential energy, thereby improving impact resistance. The tangency of each tangent line to several transparent threads ensures that these threads are closely fitted to the warp threads, preventing the composite gold wire from rolling and maintaining its elasticity and impact resistance.
[0043] The twist angle of the composite gold thread in S3 is 360° × n + 180°, where n is a positive integer, and the height of the twist helix is consistent with the fabric thickness. This specific twist angle helps to disperse impact force when the gold thread is subjected to impact. Because the height of the twist helix is consistent with the fabric thickness, this structure allows the impact force to be dispersed along the twisted helix path when the gold thread is impacted, reducing direct impact on the gold thread and thus improving its impact resistance. Twisting can change the stress distribution within the material, making the stress distribution more uniform when the gold thread is subjected to tension or compression, thereby improving the overall mechanical properties of the material.
[0044] The composite gold thread in S3 includes a latitudinal portion and a bent portion. The latitudinal portion is the part of the gold thread that runs in the same latitudinal direction, and the bent portion is the part that bends when it turns from one latitudinal direction to another.
[0045] In the bent section, the gold wire and the transparent thread spiral parallel to each other on the same horizontal plane, with the transparent thread located outside the gold wire. When the gold wire bends from one latitudinal direction to another, the spiral structure of the transparent thread increases the material's energy absorption capacity under impact. The transparent thread can break before the gold wire, absorbing some of the impact energy, thus protecting the gold wire from damage and improving the overall structure's impact resistance.
[0046] In the weft section, the transparent threads and gold threads are located on the same vertical plane. When the number of weft interlacing points is less than the number of warp interlacing points, the transparent threads are positioned above the gold threads; otherwise, they are positioned below. This design allows for dynamic adjustment based on the actual number of interlacing points, helping to distribute stress more evenly, reducing local stress concentration, and thus improving the impact resistance of the gold threads. The use of transparent threads makes color transitions more natural and smooth. When the transparent threads are above or below the gold threads, they act as a color buffer, preventing color changes from being too abrupt and enhancing color harmony. The fixed position of the transparent threads is determined based on the quantitative relationship between the warp and weft interlacing points, which increases the contact area with the warp threads, allowing the transparent threads to be more firmly fixed to the warp threads and preventing displacement of the composite gold threads during use.
[0047] A gold-woven brocade based on the Yun brocade weaving technique is prepared by a method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on the Yun brocade weaving technique.
[0048] Based on the preferred embodiments of the present invention described above, those skilled in the art can make various changes and modifications without departing from the inventive concept. The technical scope of this invention is not limited to the contents of the specification, but must be determined according to the scope of the claims.
Claims
1. A method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1: Design the gold thread weaving pattern based on the results of the embroidery pattern. The gold thread is used as the weft thread for weaving. The results of the embroidery pattern are used to design the arrangement of the silk threads. The length of the gold thread in each weft direction is arranged according to the gold thread weaving pattern, warp density and warp diameter. S2: Based on the length of the gold wire in each weft direction as described in S1, fix the transparent thread onto the gold wire, wherein the axis direction of the transparent thread is consistent with the axis direction of the gold wire, to obtain a composite gold wire; S3: The composite gold thread in S2 is woven into Yun brocade according to the embroidery pattern. During the Yun brocade weaving process, when the composite gold thread bends from one weft direction to another, the composite gold thread is twisted, and the twisting spiral axis is perpendicular to the fabric surface. S4: The fabric is woven according to the gold thread pattern to obtain a gold-woven brocade based on the Yunjin weaving technique.
2. The method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques according to claim 1, characterized in that: The thickness of the gold wire in S1 is the same as that of the warp wire. The warp wire is made of silk and has a diameter of 15-20 μm.
3. The method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques according to claim 1, characterized in that: In S1, the length of the gold thread in each weft direction is the length of the gold thread when it is straightened in each weft direction. The length of the gold thread in each weft direction is greater than the product of the warp density and the warp diameter of the gold thread in that weft direction.
4. The method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques according to claim 1, characterized in that: The transparent thread in S2 is made of either nylon or polyester, and the diameter of the transparent thread is smaller than that of the gold thread.
5. The method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques according to claim 1, characterized in that: The number of transparent threads in S2 is greater than or equal to 2, and there exists a tangent line that is tangent to several of the transparent threads.
6. The method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques according to claim 1, characterized in that: The twist angle of the composite gold thread in S3 is 360°×n+180°, where n is a positive integer, and the height of the twisting spiral is consistent with the fabric thickness.
7. The method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques according to claim 1, characterized in that: The composite gold thread in S3 includes a weft portion and a bent portion. The weft portion is the part of the gold thread that is in the same weft direction, and the bent portion is the part that is bent when turning from one weft direction to another.
8. A method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques according to claim 7, characterized in that: In the bent portion, the gold wire and the transparent wire are spiraled parallel to each other on the same horizontal plane, and the transparent wire is located outside the gold wire.
9. A method for preparing gold-woven brocade based on Yunjin weaving techniques according to claim 7, characterized in that: In the latitudinal section, the transparent thread and the gold thread are located on the same vertical plane. When the number of latitudinal interlacing points in this latitudinal direction is less than the number of warp interlacing points, the transparent thread is located above the gold thread; otherwise, the transparent thread is located below the gold thread.
10. A type of brocade based on the Yunjin weaving technique, characterized in that, It is prepared according to any one of the methods for preparing brocade based on the Yunjin weaving technique as described in any one of claims 1-9.
Citation Information
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