A silk-like breathable and jacquard fabric and a processing method thereof

By using specific yarn combinations and knitting techniques, combined with multiple dyeing processes and dye combinations, the problem of insufficient breathability and comfort in traditional woven fabrics has been solved, achieving a three-dimensional sense of layering and efficient dyeing in imitation woven fabrics, thus improving the imitation woven effect.

CN119800587BActive Publication Date: 2026-11-06FUJIAN SEPTWOLVES IND
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202411986801.X
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-12-31
Publication Date
2026-11-06
Estimated Expiration
2044-12-31

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Traditional woven fabrics fail to meet consumer demands in terms of breathability and comfort, while existing imitation woven knitted fabrics fall short in terms of appearance and fail to highlight the weight and sturdiness of woven fabrics.

Method used

By employing specific yarn combinations and knitting techniques, combined with multiple dyeing processes, a three-dimensional layered effect is created, simulating the appearance of woven fabrics. Various blended yarns and alternating long and short fibers are used to reduce the risk of snagging. Combined with multi-layer piece dyeing techniques and specific dye combinations, the dyeing stability is improved.

Benefits of technology

It achieves a three-dimensional, layered visual effect similar to woven fabrics, combining the heaviness and solidity of woven fabrics with the comfort of knitted fabrics, thus enhancing the woven effect, reducing the risk of snagging, and improving dyeing stability and energy efficiency.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present application relates to the technical field of textile knitting, and particularly relates to a silk comfortable breathable imitation of a woven jacquard fabric and a processing method thereof, wherein the fabric is provided with a knitted imitation of a woven twill pattern; a minimum cycle unit of the pattern is composed of eight courses and four wales; specifically, a first and a fifth horizontal row are provided with cotton / silk blended yarn, a second and a sixth horizontal row are provided with 4C groove polyester yarn, a third and a seventh horizontal row are provided with cotton / silk / wool blended yarn, and a fourth and an eighth horizontal row are provided with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn; odd horizontal rows in a cycle unit are provided with spun yarn, and even horizontal rows are provided with filament yarn which is thicker than the spun yarn of the odd horizontal rows. The fabric of the present application is processed by a unique knitting process and a unique dyeing process, and the appearance and characteristics of a woven fabric are simulated skillfully, so that the form beauty of a heavy and solid woven fabric is retained, and the performance of a knitted fabric is also possessed.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention generally relates to the field of textile and knitting technology, and more specifically, to a silky, breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric and its processing method. Background Technology

[0002] Woven fabrics, with their excellent dimensional stability and crisp texture, are an ideal choice for making formal wear and high-end clothing. However, they are slightly inferior to knitted fabrics in terms of breathability and comfort. As consumer awareness continues to rise, traditional woven fabrics are finding it increasingly difficult to meet consumer demands. Therefore, designing a fabric that mimics the appearance and characteristics of woven fabrics while retaining the performance advantages of knitted fabrics has become a new path for the design and development of knitted fabrics.

[0003] For example, Chinese patent CN114892329A describes an elastic, controllable imitation woven serge knitted fabric and its production method. The method involves using cotton yarn, polyester yarn, and spandex yarn as raw materials, and weaving them on a circular knitting machine using a weft-knitted yarn-adding structure. A composite structure is used to achieve the twill texture of the imitation woven serge. The composite structure consists of a 6-way loop system knitting a complete structure, with loops 2, 4, and 6; loops 1, 3, and 5 + floats; the float loops are configured with cotton yarn exposed on the reverse side of the process as the wearing side, forming an imitation woven two-up-one-down twill serge; the knitted loops are configured with polyester and spandex exposed on the wearing side of the process, forming the base fabric structure using the yarn-adding structure, and the processing side is the loop surface of the polyester and spandex yarn-adding structure. The fabric of this invention has the effect of imitating woven serge fabric. On the reverse side (the wearing side), a woven two-up-one-down twill serge pattern is formed, while the wearing side is a looped surface with polyester and spandex yarns. The fabric surface is smooth and skin-friendly, and the manufacturing method is simple. Although this patent imitates the appearance of woven fabric through loop and float structures, its smooth surface fails to highlight the thickness and sturdiness of woven fabric, resulting in a poor imitation woven appearance. It should be noted that the information disclosed in the above background section is only used to enhance the understanding of the background of this disclosure and therefore may include information that does not constitute prior art known to those skilled in the art. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The summary section introduces a series of simplified concepts, which will be further explained in detail in the detailed description section. This summary section is not intended to limit the key features and essential technical features of the claimed technical solution, nor is it intended to determine the scope of protection of the claimed technical solution.

[0005] The purpose of this invention is to overcome at least one of the defects of the prior art and to provide a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric and its processing method.

[0006] To achieve the above-mentioned objectives, the present invention adopts the following technical solution: A silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric is provided, wherein the fabric features a knitted imitation woven twill pattern, with a left twill appearance on the front. The smallest repeat unit of the pattern consists of eight horizontal rows and four vertical rows of loops. Specifically, the first and fifth horizontal rows are threaded with cotton / silk blended yarn, the second and sixth horizontal rows are threaded with 4C grooved polyester yarn, the third and seventh horizontal rows are threaded with cotton / silk / wool blended yarn, and the fourth and eighth horizontal rows are threaded with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn. In each repeat unit, odd-numbered horizontal rows are threaded with short-fiber yarn, and even-numbered horizontal rows are threaded with filament yarn that is thicker than the short-fiber yarn in the odd-numbered horizontal rows. In a three-loop structure with three nested loops, the filament yarn is looped in the middle position, and the two short-fiber yarns are looped at the top and bottom positions. In a two-loop structure with two nested loops, the filament yarn and the short-fiber yarn are looped at the top and bottom positions. Both the three-loop and two-loop structures are arranged diagonally.

[0007] Preferably, the three-loop weave employs a single-needle double-row tufting structure, where yarn is pulled from adjacent loops to create a protruding display.

[0008] Preferably, the cotton / silk blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 90% cotton + 10% mulberry silk; the 4C grooved polyester yarn is 120D-150D, 100% polyester; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 70% cotton + 20% mulberry silk + 10% wool; and the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 120D-150D, 85% polyester + 15% spandex.

[0009] Preferably, the fabric is composed of 45% cotton, 41% polyester fiber, 5% silk, 5% wool, and 4% spandex, with a warp density of 140 rows / 5cm and a weft density of 85 rows / 5cm.

[0010] A processing method for a silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric includes the following steps: weaving → pre-setting → singeing → enzyme scouring → cold alkali scouring and bleaching → chitosan modification → dehydration and drying → dyeing → singeing → softening and setting → pre-shrinking → finished product; wherein, the fabric obtained by weaving is the silky breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric as described in any one of claims 1-4; the enzyme scouring and cold alkali scouring and bleaching are used to remove impurities and improve the smoothness, wetting, and penetration properties of the fabric to facilitate subsequent dyeing; the chitosan modification includes immersing the fabric in chitosan solution twice, followed by dehydration and drying, to comprehensively enhance the fiber's adsorption capacity for reactive dyes; the dyeing includes three dyeing processes for the fabric, with the first dyeing using disperse dyes, and the second and third dyeing using heterodireactive dyes.

[0011] Preferably, during the first dyeing, the greige fabric is immersed in the first dyeing liquor, a low-temperature dyeing accelerator is added first, followed by disperse dye, dispersion leveling agent, and wool protectant, with a liquor ratio of 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 4.5-5.5 for dyeing.

[0012] Preferably, before the second dyeing, the fabric is first subjected to reduction cleaning, and then the fabric is immersed in a second dyeing solution containing a heterodiactive reactive dye and a nonionic surfactant at a liquor ratio of 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 5; after stirring, sodium sulfate is added, the temperature is raised to 60°C at a rate of 1.5°C / min, and the temperature is maintained for 30-35 minutes for the second dyeing.

[0013] Preferably, during the third dyeing process, anisodiactive reactive dye, penetrant, wool retarder, wool protectant, and sodium sulfate are added to the second dyeing solution at a liquor ratio of 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 11 for the third dyeing.

[0014] Preferably, after the third coloring, a formaldehyde-free color-fixing agent and an anti-wrinkle finishing agent are used to fix the color of the fabric; after water washing and ultrasonic soaping, it enters the singeing process.

[0015] Preferably, the softening and shaping process involves using a nonionic silicone oil softener, followed by two impregnations and two rolls of the fabric, and then shaping and drying at a temperature of 120-125°C for 40-60 seconds.

[0016] The knitted twill fabric formed by this invention uses finer short-fiber yarns in odd-numbered loops than filament yarns in even-numbered loops. At positions with three nested loops, the filament yarn loops in the middle, and this loop is most prominent when viewed in cross-section. The two short-fiber yarn loops above and below this position are slightly lower in height when viewed in cross-section than the filament yarn loop position. Furthermore, by utilizing a single-needle double-row tucking structure to pull yarn from adjacent loops, the three-loop structure position (light gray) with three nested loops is more prominent than the two-loop structure position (dark gray) with two nested loops, giving the twill fabric a three-dimensional, layered appearance. This three-dimensionality and layering make the fabric appear heavier and more solid, resulting in a better woven-like effect.

[0017] Meanwhile, to amplify this three-dimensional and layered visual effect, the present invention further employs a targeted multi-layered dyeing process. By utilizing the differences in reflective effects between short-fiber blended yarn and filament yarn, and between looped and tucked loops, and combining this with a three-stage dyeing process, a specific shadow effect is formed on the knitted fabric, further enhancing the three-dimensional visual effect and making the imitation woven effect more realistic.

[0018] This invention uses a variety of blended yarns with different properties to weave a knitted fabric with the appearance of a classic woven fabric. Through a special arrangement of loops and tucked triangles, combined with a specific yarn-threading method, the fabric has the following advantages: First, the alternating arrangement of short-fiber yarn and filament yarn reduces the risk of snagging. Not only are the short floats on the reverse side less prone to snagging, but the alternating weaving of short-fiber yarn and filament yarn also keeps the filament yarn loops on the front side of the fabric apart, making it less likely to be snagged by sharp objects. Therefore, snagging can be effectively avoided on both the front and back sides of the fabric.

[0019] Secondly, various raw materials fully utilize their performance advantages: for example, cotton, silk, and wool blended yarns are comfortable to wear; 4C grooved polyester has moisture-wicking and quick-drying properties; and cool-feeling polyester / spandex core-spun yarn can provide a cooling sensation upon contact.

[0020] Third, during the alternation of looping and gathering, the unevenness of yarn splitting and bending can be shared by the upper and lower loops, which helps to improve the loop uniformity of the entire knitted fabric.

[0021] This invention addresses the problem of poor color uniformity and reproducibility in the dyeing process of multi-component fibers. Through experimentation, the inventors selected the optimal dye combination: a step-by-step dyeing process using low-temperature disperse dyes and heterodi-reactive dyes. This lower temperature dyeing method saves energy. During dyeing, polyester fibers are first dyed in an acid bath, and then the acidity / alkalinity of the dye bath is adjusted using an alkali agent. This two-step process achieves uniform and even dyeing of cotton, silk, and wool fibers with reactive dyes, improving the dyeing stability of various fibers.

[0022] This invention solves the problem of staining cotton fibers with disperse dyes by first reducing and cleaning them after dyeing with disperse dyes and then dyeing them with reactive dyes, making it possible to dye polyester fibers the same color as the three natural fibers.

[0023] The fabrics mentioned in this invention involve a variety of fibers, including cotton, silk, wool, and polyester. Silk and wool are protein fibers. After numerous trials and screenings, the inventors unexpectedly discovered that amphoteric reactive dyes exhibited the best color matching in the fabrics of this invention, demonstrating superior stability compared to other reactive dyes. This not only ensures excellent color matching for both cellulose and protein fibers in the fabric but also provides excellent reproducibility, making it highly valuable for industrial production. Through the ingenious design of this invention, a novel knitted jacquard fabric has emerged. This fabric, through a unique knitting and dyeing process, cleverly simulates the appearance and characteristics of woven fabrics, successfully transcending the traditional boundaries between woven and knitted fabrics in terms of appearance and performance. Particularly noteworthy is its high degree of similarity in appearance imitation. It not only retains the aesthetic appeal and robustness of woven fabrics but also incorporates the performance advantages of knitted fabrics, opening up new prospects for the expanded application of knitted fabrics. Attached Figure Description

[0024] Various objects, features, and advantages of the invention will become more apparent from the following detailed description of preferred embodiments of the invention, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. The drawings are merely illustrative of the invention and are not necessarily drawn to scale. In the drawings, the same reference numerals always denote the same or similar parts. Wherein: Figure 1 This is the main structural design diagram of the silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric of Embodiment 1 of this application.

[0025] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the smallest cycle unit structure of the silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric of Embodiment 1 of this application.

[0026] Figure 3 This is a table showing the test results of fabric dyeing performance obtained according to the embodiments of this application. Figure 4 This is a table showing the test results of the physical properties of the fabric obtained according to the embodiments of this application. Detailed Implementation

[0027] Exemplary embodiments will now be described more fully with reference to the accompanying drawings. However, these exemplary embodiments can be implemented in many forms and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth herein; rather, they are provided so that the invention will be thorough and complete, and the concept of the exemplary embodiments will be fully conveyed to those skilled in the art. The same reference numerals in the drawings denote the same or similar structures, and therefore their detailed description will be omitted.

[0028] The described features, structures, or characteristics can be combined in any suitable manner in one or more embodiments. Numerous specific details are provided in the following description to give a full understanding of embodiments of the invention. However, those skilled in the art will recognize that the invention can be practiced without one or more of the specific details described, or other methods, components, materials, etc. In other instances, well-known structures, materials, or operations are not shown or described in detail to avoid obscuring various aspects of the invention.

[0029] In the following description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a more thorough understanding of the invention. However, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the invention can be practiced without one or more of these details. In other instances, certain technical features well-known in the art have not been described in order to avoid obscuring the invention.

[0030] Example 1

[0031] Please see Figure 1 and Figure 2This embodiment provides a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric. The fabric features a knitted imitation woven twill pattern, with a left twill appearance on the front. The smallest repeat unit of the pattern consists of eight horizontal rows and four vertical rows of loops. Specifically, the first and fifth horizontal rows are threaded with cotton / silk blended yarn, the second and sixth horizontal rows are threaded with 4C grooved polyester yarn, the third and seventh horizontal rows are threaded with cotton / silk / wool blended yarn, and the fourth and eighth horizontal rows are threaded with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn. In a repeat unit, odd-numbered horizontal rows are threaded with short fiber yarn, and even-numbered horizontal rows are threaded with filament yarn that is thicker than the short fiber yarn in the odd-numbered horizontal rows. In a three-loop structure (light gray) with three nested loops, the filament yarn is looped in the middle position, and the two short fiber yarns are looped at the top and bottom positions. In a two-loop structure (dark gray) with two nested loops, the filament yarn and short fiber yarn are looped at the top and bottom positions. Both the three-loop and two-loop structures are arranged diagonally. The three-loop weave uses a single-needle, double-row tufted structure, where yarn is pulled from adjacent loops to create a raised display.

[0032] The yarns include: cotton / silk blended yarn (50s / 1-60s / 1, 90% cotton + 10% mulberry silk); 4C grooved polyester yarn (120D-150D, 100% polyester); cotton / silk / wool blended yarn (50s / 1-60s / 1, 70% cotton + 20% mulberry silk + 10% wool); and polyester / spandex core-spun yarn (120D-150D, 85% polyester + 15% spandex). In this embodiment, the cotton / silk blended yarn is 50s / 1, the 4C grooved polyester yarn is 120D, the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 50s / 1, and the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 120D. In this embodiment, the 4C grooved polyester yarn is a product of Huamao Biotechnology Co., Ltd., with a product grade of 2.0-4C.

[0033] The fabric is composed of 45% cotton, 41% polyester fiber, 5% silk, 5% wool, and 4% spandex, with a warp density of 140 rows / 5cm and a weft density of 85 rows / 5cm.

[0034] This embodiment also provides a processing method for a silky, breathable, woven-like jacquard fabric, including the following steps: weaving → pre-setting → singeing → enzyme scouring → cold alkali scouring and bleaching → chitosan modification → dehydration and drying → dyeing → singeing → softening and setting → pre-shrinking → finished product. Specifically: Weaving, the above-mentioned silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric is woven as the base fabric, and the base fabric is processed as follows; Pre-set type, temperature 185-190℃, time 25-30s; in this embodiment, pre-set type, temperature 185℃, time 25s; Singeing: two front and one back, scorch temperature 1000℃, vehicle speed 120m / min; Enzyme refining: 2-2.5 g / L of refining enzyme, 1-2 g / L of penetrant, bath ratio 1:10, immersion temperature 55-60℃, immersion time 50-60 min; In this example, 2 g / L of refining enzyme, 1 g / L of penetrant, immersion temperature 55℃, immersion time 50 min; Cold pile alkali refining and bleaching: soda ash 15-18 g / L, refining agent 5-6 g / L, 30% H2O2 10-15 g / L, high-efficiency degreasing agent 8-10 g / L, stabilizer 5-6 g / L, defoamer 1-2 g / L, dispersant 1-2 g / L, cold pile temperature 28-30℃, cold pile time 20-22 h; In this embodiment, soda ash 15 g / L, refining agent 5 g / L, 30% H2O2 10 g / L, high-efficiency degreasing agent 8 g / L, stabilizer 5 g / L, defoamer 1 g / L, dispersant 1 g / L, cold pile temperature 28℃, cold pile time 20 h.

[0035] Chitosan modification, water washing, dehydration; steaming, temperature 110℃, vehicle speed 50m / min; Impregnate chitosan at a concentration of 0.5%, liquor ratio of 1:20, temperature of 55-60℃, time of 30 min; squeeze dry; in this example, the impregnation temperature of chitosan is 55℃; Impregnate with chitosan at a concentration of 0.5%, a liquor ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 60℃, and a time of 25 minutes; then dry.

[0036] dyeing: The fabric is immersed at room temperature and then impregnated with a low-temperature dyeing accelerator at a concentration of 8-10% at a temperature of 70°C for 10 minutes. In this example, the low-temperature dyeing accelerator is impregnated at a concentration of 8%.

[0037] For the feeding process, use 3.5-4% disperse dye, 0.5% dispersing leveling agent, and 2% wool protectant, with a liquor ratio of 1:20, and adjust the pH value to 4.5-5.5; in this embodiment, use 3.5% disperse dye and adjust the pH value to 4.5.

[0038] Stir for 5 minutes, then heat to 105℃ at a rate of 1℃ / min. Keep warm for 40-45 minutes, then dry; in this example, keep warm for 40 minutes.

[0039] Restorative cleaning, water washing; Feeding: 1.5-2.5% heterodiactive reactive dye, 0.5-0.6 g / L nonionic surfactant, bath ratio 1:20, adjust pH to 5; In this embodiment, 1.5% heterodiactive reactive dye and 0.5 g / L nonionic surfactant.

[0040] Add the mixture to the cloth, stir for 10 minutes, and then add the material. The concentration of sodium sulfate is 10-15 g / L. In this embodiment, the concentration of sodium sulfate is 10 g / L.

[0041] Stir for 10 minutes, heat to 60°C at a rate of 1.5°C / min, and hold for 30-35 minutes; in this example, hold for 30 minutes.

[0042] The ingredients are: 3-4% heterodireactive dye, 3-4 g / L penetrant, 1% wool retarder, 2% wool protectant, and 20-25 g / L sodium sulfate. The pH value is adjusted to 11. In this embodiment, the ingredients are: 3% heterodireactive dye, 3 g / L penetrant, and 20 g / L sodium sulfate.

[0043] The temperature is raised to 70°C at a rate of 2°C / min, held for 40-45 minutes, and then lowered to 50°C at a rate of 2°C / min. In this embodiment, the temperature is held for 40 minutes.

[0044] For color fixing, use 1-2% formaldehyde-free color fixing agent, 0.5-1% anti-wrinkle finishing agent, liquor ratio 1:15, and treatment time 25-30 min; in this example, use 1% formaldehyde-free color fixing agent, 0.5% anti-wrinkle finishing agent, and treatment time 25 min.

[0045] Drain, rinse with cold water, perform ultrasonic soaping, use 2-3 g / L of low-temperature anti-staining soap and 1.5-2 g / L of nonionic surfactant at 65-70°C for 15-20 minutes, with a liquor ratio of 1:20; in this example, use 2 g / L of low-temperature anti-staining soap and 1.5 g / L of nonionic surfactant at 65°C for 15 minutes. Rinse with 70°C hot water, rinse with cold water, and dry.

[0046] Singeing, one side forward, one side backward, flame temperature 900℃, vehicle speed 120m / min; Softening and shaping: 20-30 g / L of nonionic silicone oil softener, two dips and two nips, shaping and drying temperature 120-125℃, shaping and drying time 40-60 s; In this embodiment, 20 g / L of nonionic silicone oil softener, shaping and drying temperature 120℃, shaping and drying time 40 s.

[0047] Pre-shrink and then lay the fabric to obtain the finished product.

[0048] Among them, enzyme scouring and cold-pile alkaline scouring and bleaching are used to remove impurities and improve the smoothness, wetting, and penetration properties of the fabric to facilitate subsequent dyeing; chitosan modification involves impregnating the fabric twice with chitosan solution, followed by dehydration and drying to comprehensively enhance the fiber's adsorption capacity for reactive dyes; dyeing includes three dyeing processes for the fabric, with the first dyeing using disperse dyes, and the second and third dyeing using heterodireactive dyes. Specifically, For the first dyeing, the greige fabric is immersed in the first dye bath. A low-temperature dyeing accelerator is added first, followed by disperse dye, dispersing and leveling agent, and wool protectant. The bath ratio is 1:20, and the pH is adjusted to 4.5-5.5 for dyeing. Before the second dyeing, the greige fabric is first subjected to a reduction cleaning. Then, the fabric is immersed in the second dye bath containing heterodiactive reactive dyes and nonionic surfactants. The bath ratio is 1:20, and the pH is adjusted to 5. After stirring, sodium sulfate is added, and the temperature is raised to 60℃ at a rate of 1.5℃ / min, and held for 30-35 minutes for the second dyeing. For the third dyeing, heterodiactive reactive dyes, penetrants, wool retarders, wool protectants, and sodium sulfate are added to the second dye bath. The bath ratio is 1:20, and the pH is adjusted to 11 for the third dyeing.

[0049] Example 2

[0050] This embodiment provides a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric, which differs from Embodiment 1 in that the cotton / silk blended yarn in this embodiment is 60s / 1; the 4C grooved polyester yarn is 150D; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 60s / 1; and the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 150D.

[0051] This embodiment provides a processing method for a silky, breathable, woven jacquard fabric. The difference between this method and Embodiment 1 is that the parameters used in the experiment are taken from the rightmost threshold. Specifically, in this embodiment: Weaving, the above-mentioned silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric is woven as the base fabric, and the base fabric is processed as follows; Pre-set, temperature 190℃, time 30s; Singeing: two front and one back, scorch temperature 1000℃, vehicle speed 120m / min; Enzyme refining: 2.5 g / L refining enzyme, 2 g / L penetrant, bath ratio 1:10, impregnation temperature 60℃, impregnation time 60 min; Cold pile alkaline bleaching: soda ash 18g / L, refining agent 6g / L, 30% H2O2 15g / L, high-efficiency degreasing agent 10g / L, stabilizer 6g / L, defoamer 2g / L, dispersant 2g / L, cold pile temperature 30℃, cold pile time 22h; Chitosan modification, water washing, dehydration; steaming, temperature 110℃, vehicle speed 50m / min; Impregnate with chitosan at a concentration of 0.5%, liquor ratio of 1:20, temperature of 60℃, and time of 30 min; then squeeze dry. Impregnate with chitosan at a concentration of 0.5%, a liquor ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 60℃, and a time of 25 minutes; then dry.

[0052] dyeing: Place the fabric at room temperature and immerse it in a low-temperature dyeing accelerator at a concentration of 10% and a temperature of 70°C for 10 minutes. Feed the dye mixture: 4% disperse dye, 0.5% dispersing leveling agent, 2% wool protectant, liquor ratio 1:20, adjust pH to 5.5; Stir for 5 minutes, then heat to 105℃ at a rate of 1℃ / min. Keep warm for 45 minutes, then dry. Restorative cleaning, water washing; Feeding: 2.5% heterodireactive dye, 0.6 g / L nonionic surfactant, bath ratio 1:20, adjust pH to 5; Add to cloth, stir for 10 minutes, then add the material, with sodium sulfate at 15g / L; Stir for 10 minutes, heat to 60℃ at a rate of 1.5℃ / min, and hold for 35 minutes. The ingredients are: 4% isocyanate direactive dye, 4g / L penetrant, 1% wool retarder, 2% wool protectant, 25g / L sodium sulfate, and pH adjusted to 11. Heat to 70℃ at a rate of 2℃ / min, hold for 45min, then cool to 50℃ at a rate of 2℃ / min. Color fixing agent: 2% formaldehyde-free color fixing agent, 1% anti-wrinkle finishing agent, liquor ratio 1:15, treatment time 30 min; Drain, cold water wash, ultrasonic soaping, low-temperature anti-staining soaping agent 3g / L, nonionic surfactant 2g / L, temperature 70℃, time 20min, liquor ratio 1:20; Wash with 70℃ hot water, then rinse with cold water and dry.

[0053] Singeing, one side forward, one side backward, flame temperature 900℃, vehicle speed 120m / min; Softening and shaping, nonionic silicone oil softener 30g / L, two dips and two nips, shaping and drying temperature 125℃, shaping and drying time 60s; Pre-shrink and then lay the fabric to obtain the finished product.

[0054] Comparative Example 1 This embodiment provides a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric. The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 1 is that the first and fifth horizontal rows are woven with a blended yarn of linen / lyocell fiber, the second and sixth horizontal rows are woven with 4C grooved polyester yarn, the third and seventh horizontal rows are woven with a blended yarn of cotton / modal, and the fourth and eighth horizontal rows are woven with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn. At the same time, the same processing method as Embodiment 1 is used to obtain the finished fabric.

[0055] Comparative Example 2 This embodiment provides a silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric. The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 1 is that the cotton / silk blended yarn is 80s / 1; the 4C grooved polyester yarn is 190D; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 80s / 1; and the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 190D. At the same time, the same processing method as Embodiment 1 is used to obtain the finished fabric.

[0056] Comparative Example 3 This embodiment provides a silky, breathable, woven jacquard fabric with the same fabric structure as in Embodiment 1. The difference from Embodiment 1 lies in its processing method; in this embodiment, the reactive dye used is α-bromoacrylamide type reactive dye, and no third dyeing is performed.

[0057] Comparative Example 4 This embodiment provides a silky, breathable, woven jacquard fabric with the same fabric structure as in Embodiment 1. The difference lies in the processing method; in this embodiment, reactive dyes are not added for dyeing.

[0058] The finished fabric obtained in Example 1 was subjected to performance testing, and the test results are attached. Figure 3 The results of the fabric dyeing performance test are shown in the table. The test standard is GB / T 22849-Knitted T-shirts.

[0059] The finished fabrics obtained in Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were subjected to performance tests, and the test results are attached. Figure 4 The results of the physical properties test of the fabric are shown in the table. The test methods are as follows: bursting strength (ISO 13938-1:2004 method); pilling (ISO 12945-2:2000 method); and snagging (GB / T 11047-2008 method).

[0060] It should be understood that the various examples described above can be utilized in multiple directions (e.g., tilted, inverted, horizontal, vertical, etc.) and in multiple configurations without departing from the principles of the invention. The embodiments shown in the accompanying drawings are merely examples of effective application of the principles of the invention, and the invention is not limited to any specific details of these embodiments. Of course, once carefully considering the above description of representative embodiments, those skilled in the art will readily understand that various modifications, additions, substitutions, deletions, and other changes can be made to these specific embodiments, and that these changes are within the scope of the principles of the invention. Therefore, the foregoing detailed description should be clearly understood as being given by way of illustration and example only, and the spirit and scope of the invention are defined only by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A silky, breathable, woven-jacquard-like fabric, characterized in that: The fabric features a knitted imitation woven twill pattern, with a left twill appearance on the front. The smallest repeat unit of the pattern consists of eight horizontal rows and four vertical rows of loops. Specifically, the first and fifth horizontal rows are threaded with cotton / silk blended yarn, the second and sixth horizontal rows are threaded with 4C grooved polyester yarn, the third and seventh horizontal rows are threaded with cotton / silk / wool blended yarn, and the fourth and eighth horizontal rows are threaded with polyester / spandex core-spun yarn. In a loop unit, odd-numbered horizontal paths are threaded with short fiber yarns, and even-numbered horizontal paths are threaded with filament yarns. In a three-loop structure with three nested loops, the filament yarn is looped in the middle position, and the two short fiber yarns are looped in the upper and lower positions. In a two-loop structure with two nested loops, the filament yarn and the short fiber yarn are looped in the upper and lower positions. The three-loop structure and the two-loop structure are both arranged diagonally. The three-loop structure uses a single-needle double-row tucking structure to pull yarn from adjacent loops to make it protrude; The cotton / silk blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 90% cotton + 10% mulberry silk; the 4C grooved polyester yarn is 120D-150D, 100% polyester; the cotton / silk / wool blended yarn is 50s / 1-60s / 1, 70% cotton + 20% mulberry silk + 10% wool; the polyester / spandex core-spun yarn is 120D-150D, 85% polyester + 15% spandex.

2. The silky, breathable, woven jacquard fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that: The fabric is composed of 45% cotton, 41% polyester fiber, 5% silk, 5% wool, and 4% spandex, with a warp density of 140 rows / 5cm and a weft density of 85 rows / 5cm.

3. A processing method for a silky, breathable, woven-jacquard-like fabric, characterized in that, The process includes the following steps: weaving → pre-setting → singeing → enzyme scouring → cold alkali scouring and bleaching → chitosan modification → dehydration and drying → dyeing → singeing → softening and setting → pre-shrinking → finished product; wherein, the fabric obtained by weaving is the silky and breathable imitation woven jacquard fabric as described in any one of claims 1-2; the enzyme scouring and cold alkali scouring and bleaching are used to remove impurities and improve the smoothness, wetting, and penetration properties of the fabric to facilitate subsequent dyeing; the chitosan modification includes immersing the fabric in chitosan solution twice, followed by dehydration and drying, to comprehensively enhance the fiber's adsorption capacity for reactive dyes; the dyeing includes three dyeing processes for the fabric, with the first dyeing using disperse dyes, and the second and third dyeing using heterodireactive dyes.

4. The processing method of a silky, breathable, imitation woven jacquard fabric as described in claim 3, characterized in that: During the first dyeing process, the greige fabric is immersed in the first dyeing liquor. First, a low-temperature dyeing accelerator is added, followed by disperse dye, dispersion leveling agent, and wool protectant. The liquor ratio is 1:20, and the pH value is adjusted to 4.5-5.5 for dyeing.

5. The processing method of a silky, breathable, imitation woven jacquard fabric as described in claim 4, characterized in that: Before the second dyeing, the fabric is first reduced and cleaned, and then the fabric is immersed in a second dyeing solution containing heterodiactive reactive dyes and nonionic surfactants at a ratio of 1:20 and the pH value is adjusted to 5. After stirring, sodium sulfate is added, the temperature is raised to 60°C at a rate of 1.5°C / min, and the temperature is maintained for 30-35 minutes for the second dyeing.

6. The processing method of a silky, breathable, imitation woven jacquard fabric as described in claim 5, characterized in that: During the third dyeing process, add isocyanate-based reactive dye, penetrant, wool retarder, wool protectant, and sodium sulfate to the second dyeing solution at a liquor ratio of 1:20 and adjust the pH to 11 for the third dyeing.

7. The processing method of a silky, breathable, imitation woven jacquard fabric as described in claim 6, characterized in that: After the third coloring, a formaldehyde-free color-fixing agent and an anti-wrinkle finishing agent are used to fix the color of the fabric; after washing and ultrasonic soaping, it enters the singeing process.

8. The processing method of a silky, breathable, imitation woven jacquard fabric as described in claim 7, characterized in that: The softening and shaping process involves using a non-ionic silicone oil softener, followed by two dips and two rolls of the fabric, and then shaping and drying at a temperature of 120-125℃ for 40-60 seconds.

Citation Information

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