Process for the production of warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with flower comb

Abstract

The application relates to the technical field of fabric production, in particular to a preparation process of warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a flower comb, which solves the problem that the shape richness of the current integrally-knitted three-dimensional relief warp-knitted fabric cannot be further improved, and comprises the following steps: a, knitting to obtain the fabric; b, a dyeing process; and c, a post-finishing process.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of fabric production technology, specifically to a preparation process for a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a comb pattern. Background Technology

[0002] Benefiting from increased public awareness of health and a continuously expanding population of fitness enthusiasts, sportswear has become a popular and convenient choice for outdoor sports and travel, driving the rapid development of China's sportswear industry. From 2015 to 2021, its compound annual growth rate (CAGR) was approximately 14.3%, higher than the overall apparel market and other sub-categories. Affected by the pandemic, the retail scale of my country's sportswear market declined by 2.4% year-on-year in 2020, but quickly recovered to high growth in 2021, with a year-on-year growth rate of 19.1%. As a major category of sportswear, sports shoes also saw a corresponding increase in market share.

[0003] Warp-knitted shoe materials are ideal for footwear due to their characteristics, such as controllable thickness, availability of single, double, and three-layer options, excellent breathability, and the ability to be woven in one piece. However, even one-piece woven warp-knitted shoe materials often require post-processing such as electro-embroidery to enhance the richness of patterns and create three-dimensional reliefs on the upper. This post-processing not only increases time and labor costs but also contradicts the principles of green environmental protection.

[0004] Although there are technical solutions on the market such as Chinese patent CN 115478357 B, which discloses a three-dimensional jacquard comb structure, from the tail to the head, it includes an embossed comb box, a ground comb structure, a weft insertion structure and an elastic weft insertion structure. The embossed comb box is used to cooperate with the ground comb structure, the weft insertion structure and the elastic weft insertion structure to form a three-dimensional embossed jacquard.

[0005] However, the available fabric designs do not offer a wide variety of options, failing to meet the growing demands of consumers. Summary of the Invention

[0006] Therefore, the present invention provides a preparation process for warp-knitted jacquard shoe material with a comb pattern, which solves the problem that the richness of the shape of the current one-piece woven three-dimensional relief warp-knitted fabric cannot be further improved.

[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention is implemented through the following technical solution:

[0008] A process for preparing a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material with a comb pattern includes the following steps:

[0009] a. Weaving to obtain fabric:

[0010] The RSJ25 / 3 / 20 Jacquard comb Raschel warp knitting machine is equipped with three Jacquard combs, two pattern comb transverse lines, two ground combs, and a pressing plate.

[0011] The two horizontal shift lines of the comb are located on the outermost side. The yarn is pressed to the base of the loop by the pressing plate, forming a three-dimensional relief pattern on the reverse side of the fabric.

[0012] The first two Jacquard combs are located behind the flower comb. As a padding yarn for pressing the yarn, it is pressed to the base of the loop. Depending on the number of stitches moved horizontally in front of the needle, a three-dimensional relief pattern with different thicknesses is formed.

[0013] The Jacquard combs are inserted into raw materials with different dyeing properties, and the two-color and mixed-color effects are achieved by the difference in the number of needles.

[0014] The third jacquard comb is located in the innermost layer. Through the action of the jacquard needle, it forms a weft-type jacquard pattern and generates breathable mesh with adjustable size in different areas.

[0015] The two combs are woven into a ground structure to secure the padding yarn;

[0016] b. Dyeing process: High temperature and high pressure dyeing technology is adopted, and dyeing is completed by using cationic dyes and disperse dyes in the same bath, combined with two heating and fixing dyeing techniques.

[0017] c. Finishing process: Heat setting treatment is performed on the dyed fabric.

[0018] Preferably, in step a, the number of lateral shifting needles before the horizontal shifting needle of the flower comb is 3-5, and the yarn diameter is 20-30D; the number of lateral shifting needles before the needles of the first two Jacquard combs is 1-2, and the yarn materials of the two combs are polyester and cationic polyester, respectively, forming a two-color jacquard and mixed color transition effect after dyeing and finishing.

[0019] Preferably, the weft-type jacquard pattern of the third Jacquard comb is controlled by Jacquard offset to control the mesh size, forming a mesh with a length of 1-2 mm and a width of 0.5-1 mm in the breathable area and a mesh with a length of 0.5-1 mm and a width of 0.3-0.8 mm in the non-breathable area.

[0020] Preferably, the pressing plate presses the padding yarns of the pattern comb and the first two Jacquard combs in layers: the pattern comb yarns are pressed to the outermost layer of the coil base to form a thick relief with a height of 0.8-1.2mm; the Jacquard comb yarns are pressed to the inner layer of the coil base to form a thin relief with a height of 0.3-0.6mm.

[0021] Preferably, the two-stage temperature-raising and staining technique in step b includes:

[0022] Pre-dyeing stage: temperature 80-90℃, time 5-10 minutes, dye penetration rate 60-70%;

[0023] Dyeing stage: temperature 120-130℃, time 30-45 minutes, dye penetration rate ≥95%; the ratio of cationic dye to disperse dye is 1:1.5-2.5.

[0024] Preferably, in step c, the heat setting temperature is 150-200℃, the time is 2-3 minutes, and the fabric shrinkage rate after setting is ≤3% and the color fastness is ≥4.

[0025] Preferably, the ground comb is made of 75D polyester filament, and the padding yarn is fixed by a braided structure, with a ground structure density of 8-12 rows / cm.

[0026] Preferably, in step a, the fabric has a warp density of 8-12 wpc, a weft density of 12-20 cpc, a tensile density of 10-20 cpc, and a weight of 300-600 g / m². 2 .

[0027] Preferably, the breathable mesh has a length of 0.5-3 mm, a width of 0.3-1.2 mm, and a mesh density of 10-20 meshes / cm². 2 .

[0028] By adopting the aforementioned technical solution, the beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0029] This technical solution improves upon the selection of raw materials, equipment, weaving techniques, and dyeing and finishing processes. While current warp-knitted shoe materials offer single / double-layer options, breathable areas with perforations, and jacquard weaving, they cannot achieve a three-dimensional embossed effect. In contrast, lace fabrics produced by multi-comb warp knitting machines boast a rich variety of patterns and a three-dimensional embossed surface, akin to electro-embroidery, perfectly compensating for the shortcomings of warp-knitted jacquard fabrics. Our company plans to combine the jacquard comb with the warp-knitting jacquard device. The jacquard function of the jacquard enriches the weave and creates distinct layers. The jacquard function of the comb produces more exquisite and intricate lace patterns with a strong three-dimensional effect, replacing electro-embroidery, reducing subsequent processes, saving time and labor, and being environmentally friendly. Attached Figure Description

[0030] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the comb configuration structure according to an embodiment of the present invention;

[0031] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the dyeing process curve according to an embodiment of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0032] The following will describe in detail the implementation of the present invention with reference to specific embodiments, so that the process of how the present invention uses technical means to solve technical problems and achieve technical effects can be fully understood and implemented accordingly.

[0033] Example

[0034] refer to Figure 1 A preparation process for a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material with a comb pattern includes the following steps:

[0035] a. Weaving to obtain fabric:

[0036] In terms of raw material composition, the following are selected:

[0037] A: Polyester rainbow yarn 300D;

[0038] B: Polyester DTY200D / 96F heavy-duty untwisted yarn;

[0039] C: Cationic shiny DTY300D / 96F heavy-duty untwisted fabric;

[0040] D: Polyester DTY100D / 48F lightweight mesh;

[0041] E: Polyester DTY75D / 36F lightweight mesh;

[0042] The weaving process uses an RSJ25 / 3 / 20 Jacquard nico multi-comb Raschel warp knitting machine, which is equipped with three Jacquard combs, two pattern comb transverse lines, two ground combs, and a pressing plate.

[0043] Here, three jacquard combs are arranged like... Figure 1 The layout shown refers to three groups:

[0044] The first two are (JB18.1, JB18.2) and (JB19.1, JB19.2), and the third is (JB22.1, JB22.2).

[0045] The horizontal lines of the comb are (PB5, PB6, PB15, PB16);

[0046] The two horizontal stitch lines (PB5, PB6, PB15, PB16) are located on the outermost side, and are threaded into 300D polyester multicolor yarn (A), which is composed of multiple strands of 20-30D yarn; the number of stitches in front of the needle is 3-5 stitches, and the warp feed is 6.4mm / row (three large and three small); the yarn is pressed to the base of the loop by the pressing plate, forming a thick three-dimensional relief with a height of 0.8-1.2mm on the reverse side of the fabric;

[0047] The first two jacquard combs (JB18.1, JB18.2) and (JB19.1, JB19.2) are located behind the flower comb, and are threaded with 200D polyester heavy-net untwisted yarn (B) and 300D cationic bright heavy-net untwisted yarn (C) respectively, with a warp feed of 3.6mm / row (one large and three small); the padding yarn is pressed to the inner layer of the loop base by the pressing plate, and the number of needles moved horizontally in front of the needle is 1-2, forming a thin three-dimensional relief of 0.3-0.6mm, and the two-color and mixed color effects are achieved by the difference in the number of stitches and the difference in dyeing performance;

[0048] The third jacquard comb (JB22.1, JB22.2): Located in the innermost layer, it is threaded with 100D polyester lightweight mesh (D) at a warp feed rate of 2.5mm / row. Through jacquard offset, it forms a weft-insertion jacquard pattern, creating breathable meshes of 0.5-3mm in length and 0.3-1.2mm in width in different areas. Depending on the size of the breathable mesh, it is divided into breathable and non-breathable areas as needed. Specifically, the weft-insertion jacquard pattern of the third jacquard comb controls the mesh size through jacquard offset, forming meshes of 1-2mm in length and 0.5-1mm in width in breathable areas, and 0.5-1mm in length and 0.3-0.8mm in width in non-breathable areas. The mesh density of the breathable mesh is 10-20 meshes / cm². 2 .

[0049] Ground comb (GB20, GB21): 75D polyester lightweight mesh (E) is inserted, with a warp feed of 3.32mm / row, and the padding yarn is fixed by a chain braiding structure with a weave density of 8-12 warp rows / cm.

[0050] The specific process organization is as follows:

[0051] PB1-PB4: Air Comb

[0052] PB5: Flower Comb 1A;

[0053] PB6: Flower Comb 1A;

[0054] PB7-PB14: Air Comb

[0055] PB15: Flower Comb 1A;

[0056] PB16: Flower Comb 1A;

[0057] PB17-PB20: Air Comb

[0058] JB18.1: 0-1 / 3-2 / / 1B;

[0059] JB18.2: 0-1 / 3-2 / / 1B;

[0060] JB19.1: 0-1 / 3-2 / / 1C;

[0061] JB19.2: 0-1 / 3-2 / / 1C;

[0062] GB20: 1-0 / 0-1 / / 1D;

[0063] GB21: 1-0 / 0-1 / / 1E;

[0064] JB22.1: 0-0 / 2-2 / / 1D;

[0065] JB22.2: 0-0 / 2-2 / / 1D;

[0066] Quantity of menstrual blood delivered:

[0067] PB5: 6.4mm / three large and three small columns in each row;

[0068] PB6: 6.4mm / three large and three small columns in each row;

[0069] PB15: 6.4mm / three large and three small columns in each row;

[0070] PB16: 6.4mm / three large and three small columns in each row;

[0071] JB18.1: 3.6mm / one large and three small columns in a row;

[0072] JB18.2: 3.6mm / one large and three small columns in a row;

[0073] JB19.1: 3.6mm / one large and three small columns in a row;

[0074] JB19.2: 3.6mm / one large and three small columns in a row;

[0075] GB20: 3.32mm / row;

[0076] GB21: 3.32mm / row;

[0077] JB22.1: 2.5mm / row;

[0078] JB22.2: 2.5mm / row.

[0079] The fabric parameters after weaving are: warp density 10.5 wpc, weft density 16.5 cpc, stretch density 16 cpc, weight 437 g / m². 2 Depending on the choice of raw materials, the fabric parameters may fluctuate within the following range:

[0080] Transverse density is 8-12 wpc, longitudinal density is 12-20 cpc, tensile density is 10-20 cpc, and basis weight is 300-600 g / m². 2 .

[0081] b. Dyeing process: High temperature and high pressure dyeing technology is adopted, and dyeing is completed by using cationic dyes and disperse dyes in the same bath, combined with two heating and fixing dyeing techniques.

[0082] Specifically, the HAS-1-10 high-temperature, high-pressure overflow dyeing machine is used, and the two-stage temperature-fixing dyeing technique includes:

[0083] Pre-dyeing stage: temperature 80-90℃, time 5-10 minutes, dye penetration rate 60-70%;

[0084] Dyeing stage: temperature 120-130℃, time 30-45 minutes, dye penetration rate ≥95%; the ratio of cationic dye to disperse dye is 1:1.5-2.5.

[0085] Compatible dye formulations include:

[0086] Disperse Red ACE 0.0011%, Disperse Yellow ACE 0.005% (for dyeing polyester);

[0087] Cationic fluorescent yellow 10G-ED 0.0045%, cationic turquoise blue 4GSL-ED 0.0088% (for dyeing cationic polyester);

[0088] Auxiliary agents: High-temperature leveling agent DM-2115A 1g / L, buffer acid NX-306 1g / L, chelating dispersant 1g / L, sodium sulfate 2g / L, softener 5g / L;

[0089] For specific staining procedures, please refer to... Figure 2 :

[0090] Inoculate at room temperature, then increase the temperature to 70℃ at a rate of 1.5℃ / min and hold for 5 minutes.

[0091] Heat to 120℃ at a rate of 2℃ / min and hold for 30 minutes;

[0092] After color matching, the temperature is lowered to 80℃ at a rate of 2℃ / min, followed by water washing.

[0093] c. Finishing process: The dyed fabric undergoes heat setting. Heat setting includes pre-setting and stretching setting, among which:

[0094] Pre-setting: The EAG-2000-CBR-0 setting machine is used. The greige fabric is fed in against the weave direction. The width is adjusted by overfeed rollers and pin chain. Pre-setting is performed at 200℃ at a speed of 15 yards / min. The fabric shrinkage rate after setting is ≤3%. This setting machine uses high-temperature hot air setting technology, ensuring that hot air is evenly applied to both sides of the fabric. When the temperature inside the sealed oven of the setting machine exceeds the glass transition temperature of the fabric, the polymers within the fiber raw material undergo reorganization, thereby changing the surface dimensions of the fabric. The greige fabric is fed into the setting machine along the reverse weave direction. First, the overfeed roller device and pin chain stretching device stretch or shrink the fabric to its setting dimensions. It then undergoes setting treatment in multiple dry, heat-sealed ovens. After setting, the fabric is cooled to complete the pre-setting process. The pre-setting temperature is set at 200℃, and the fabric input speed is set at 15 yards / min.

[0095] Tensioning: The EAG-2300-CBR-0 stenter is used to set the fabric at 170℃ and 12 yards / min. After setting, the fabric color fastness is ≥4, the fabric shrinkage rate is ≤3%, and the dimensional stability deviation is ≤1.5%.

[0096] This technical solution improves upon the selection of raw materials, equipment, weaving techniques, and dyeing and finishing processes. While current warp-knitted shoe materials offer single / double-layer options, breathable areas with perforations, and jacquard weaving, they cannot achieve a three-dimensional embossed effect. In contrast, lace fabrics produced by multi-comb warp knitting machines boast a rich variety of patterns and a three-dimensional embossed surface, akin to electro-embroidery, perfectly compensating for the shortcomings of warp-knitted jacquard fabrics. Our company plans to combine the jacquard comb with the warp-knitting jacquard device. The jacquard function of the jacquard enriches the weave and creates distinct layers. The jacquard function of the comb produces more exquisite and intricate lace patterns with a strong three-dimensional effect, replacing electro-embroidery, reducing subsequent processes, saving time and labor, and being environmentally friendly.

[0097] The fabric tested in this project, which investigated the application of the comb pattern in warp-knitted jacquard shoe designs, underwent meticulous testing by the Fujian Provincial Fiber Testing Center. Our company's fabric has fully met the requirements of both the Fujian Provincial Fiber Testing Center and our clients. Details of the specific indicators are as follows:

[0098]

[0099]

[0100]

[0101] The production process utilizes an RSJ25 / 3 / 20 Jacquard nicotrope Raschel warp knitting machine. The machine is equipped with three Jacquard combs and two patterned comb transverse lines. The fabric combines the advantages of both Jacquard and patterned comb jacquard, resulting in a richer variety of jacquard patterns. The first two Jacquard and patterned combs, through the action of the yarn presser plate, press the yarn in front of the needle to the base of the working needle, preventing the yarn from forming loops. The pressing structure acts on the foremost comb on the reverse side of the process, creating a raised texture. Depending on the number of transverse stitches in front of the comb needles, a three-dimensional relief effect of varying thickness can be created. The patterned comb can handle thicker yarns and has a higher number of transverse stitches, resulting in a thicker and more three-dimensional relief effect, eliminating the need for subsequent electroembroidery processing and saving time and labor costs. The third Jacquard comb, through the action of the Jacquard offset needle, creates a breathable mesh.

[0102] Jacquard combs are made of polyester and cationic polyester, respectively. Polyester and cationic polyester are used for pressed yarn jacquard raw materials, while polyester is used for weft-inserted jacquard or loop-type jacquard raw materials. Floral combs are made of polyester iridescent yarn. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric can form a polyester-cationic two-color jacquard effect and iridescent yarn with a shimmering golden sheen.

[0103] The dyeing process employs high-temperature and high-pressure dyeing technology, using cationic and disperse dyes in a single bath. The dyes and auxiliaries are prepared using specialized titration instruments, which effectively reduces uncontrollable human factors. The dyeing process utilizes a two-stage heating and fixing dyeing technique, with a short pre-dyeing at a slightly lower temperature and a long-term fixing dyeing at a higher temperature, which effectively improves the bonding between the dye and the fabric, thereby enhancing the colorfastness of the warp-knitted fabric.

[0104] Although the invention has been specifically shown and described in conjunction with preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that various changes in form and detail may be made to the invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims, all of which shall be within the scope of protection of the invention.

Claims

1. A preparation process for a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a comb pattern, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: a. Weaving to obtain fabric: The RSJ25 / 3 / 20 Jacquard comb Raschel warp knitting machine is equipped with three Jacquard combs, two pattern comb transverse lines, two ground combs, and a pressing plate. The two horizontal shift lines are located on the outermost side, and are threaded with 300D polyester seven-color yarn, which is composed of multiple strands of 20-30D yarn; the number of horizontal shift stitches is 3-5 stitches, and the warp feed is 6.4mm / row; The padding yarn is pressed to the base of the loop by the pressing plate, forming a thick three-dimensional relief with a height of 0.8-1.2mm on the reverse side of the fabric; The first two jacquard combs are located behind the flower comb, and are threaded with 200D polyester heavy-net untwisted yarn and 300D cationic bright heavy-net untwisted yarn respectively, with a warp feed of 3.6mm / column; the padding yarn is pressed to the inner layer of the coil base by the pressing plate, and the number of needles moved horizontally in front of the needle is 1-2, forming a thin three-dimensional relief of 0.3-0.6mm, and the two-color and mixed color effects are achieved by the difference in the number of stitches and the difference in dyeing performance; The third jacquard comb is located in the innermost layer. Through the action of the jacquard needle, it forms a weft-type jacquard pattern and generates breathable mesh with adjustable size in different areas. The two combs are woven into a ground structure to fix the padding yarn; b. Dyeing process: High temperature and high pressure dyeing technology is adopted, and dyeing is completed by using cationic dyes and disperse dyes in the same bath, combined with two heating and fixing dyeing techniques. c. Finishing process: Heat setting treatment is performed on the dyed fabric.

2. The preparation process of a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a comb pattern according to claim 1, characterized in that: The third jacquard comb's weft-type jacquard pattern controls the mesh size through jacquard offset, forming mesh holes 1-2mm long and 0.5-1mm wide in the breathable area, and 0.5-1mm long and 0.3-0.8mm wide in the non-breathable area.

3. The preparation process of a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a comb pattern according to claim 1, characterized in that: The two-stage temperature-raising and fixation dyeing technique in step b includes: Pre-dyeing stage: temperature 80-90℃, time 5-10 minutes, dye penetration rate 60-70%; Dyeing stage: temperature 120-130℃, time 30-45 minutes, dye penetration rate ≥95%; the ratio of cationic dye to disperse dye is 1:1.5-2.

5.

4. The preparation process of a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a comb pattern according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step c, the heat setting temperature is 150-200℃, the time is 2-3 minutes, and the shrinkage rate of the fabric after setting is ≤3%, and the color fastness is ≥4.

5. The preparation process of a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a comb pattern according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that: The ground comb is made of 75D polyester filament, and the padding yarn is fixed by a braided structure. The ground structure density is 8-12 warp rows / cm.

6. The preparation process of a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a comb pattern according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that: In step a, the fabric has a transverse density of 8-12 wpc, a longitudinal density of 12-20 cpc, a tensile density of 10-20 cpc, and a weight of 300-600 g / m².

7. The preparation process of a warp-knitted jacquard shoe material fabric with a comb pattern according to claim 1, characterized in that: The breathable mesh has a length of 0.5-3mm, a width of 0.3-1.2mm, and a mesh density of 10-20 meshes / cm².

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