A dyeing and finishing method for yarn-dyed machine-woven check fabric

Abstract

The application discloses a dyeing and finishing processing method for a color-woven checkered fabric, and the technological process comprises the following steps: dyeing yarn, warping, sizing, weaving, singeing, desizing, primary weft setting and shaping, mercerizing, liquid ammonia treatment, final weft setting and shaping, and preshrinking, wherein, before the primary weft setting and shaping, intermediate chemical testing is performed, and the width, weft skew, washing distortion and shrinkage of the fabric after desizing are sampled and tested, then, according to the test results, a tentering weft setting machine and a setting machine are used to perform the primary weft setting and shaping on the fabric; before the final weft setting and shaping, post-chemical testing is performed, and the weft skew, washing distortion and shrinkage of the fabric after the liquid ammonia treatment are sampled and tested, then, according to the test results, the tentering weft setting machine and the setting machine are used to perform the final weft setting and shaping on the fabric. Through the measures of tentering setting, pre-oblique stretching, weft setting, mercerizing, liquid ammonia treatment and preshrinking, the method balances the two key evaluation indexes of weft skew and washing distortion for measuring the stability of the fabric.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile dyeing and finishing technology, specifically to a dyeing and finishing method for yarn-dyed woven plaid fabric, aiming to improve the problems of weft skew before washing and twisting after washing of yarn-dyed woven plaid fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Yarn-dyed plaid fabrics, with their rich color combinations and unique pattern designs, have always been popular with consumers and are widely used in high-end shirts, suits, curtains, bedding, and other fields. Yarn-dyed plaid fabrics hold an important position in the textile and apparel market. The quality standards for high-quality yarn-dyed plaid fabrics in the textile and apparel industry typically require: weft skew ≤2% and post-wash twist ≤3%. However, in actual production and processing, weft skew ≥4% and post-wash twist ≥5% often occur, which has become a challenge in the dyeing and finishing of yarn-dyed plaid fabrics. Weft skew not only affects the appearance quality of the fabric but also leads to problems such as cutting difficulties and sewing deviations during garment production, increasing production costs and the defect rate. Post-wash twist, on the other hand, causes unsightly deformation after finishing, including after washing or wrinkle-free finishing, as well as during wear and use, resulting in substandard garment quality and reduced consumer satisfaction. The conventional dyeing and finishing process for existing yarn-dyed woven checkered fabrics is as follows: yarn dyeing → warping → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → setting → pre-shrinking. This dyeing and finishing method has limited effectiveness in solving these problems. Therefore, there is an urgent need for a more effective dyeing and finishing method to improve these defects of yarn-dyed woven checkered fabrics and enhance the dimensional stability of the fabric. Summary of the Invention

[0003] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a dyeing and finishing method for woven checkered fabrics, which addresses the shortcomings of the prior art. This method achieves a balance between the two key performance indicators for measuring fabric stability, namely weft skew and post-wash twist, through measures such as stretching and setting the fabric, pre-skewing, weft straightening, mercerizing, liquid ammonia treatment, and pre-shrinking.

[0004] The technical solution adopted by this invention to solve the above-mentioned technical problems is as follows: a dyeing and finishing method for woven checkered fabric, the process flow of which is: yarn dyeing → warping → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → initial weft setting → mercerizing → liquid ammonia treatment → final weft setting → pre-shrinking treatment, wherein:

[0005] Before the initial weft straightening and setting, a mid-term inspection physical and chemical test is conducted. The fabric width, weft skew, post-wash twist, and shrinkage are sampled and tested after desizing. Based on the results of the mid-term inspection physical and chemical test, a tenter frame and a setting machine are used to perform the initial weft straightening and setting of the fabric. Specifically, based on the degree of weft skew in the mid-term inspection physical and chemical test, the fabric is widened and straightened using a tenter frame to adjust the weft position of the fabric so that the weft skew angle is controlled within 1°. Then, based on the post-wash twist direction in the mid-term inspection physical and chemical test, the setting machine is used to perform a reverse pre-skewing and setting process on the fabric, which is opposite to the post-wash twist direction, to further stabilize the dimensions of the fabric.

[0006] Before final weft setting, a post-inspection physicochemical test is conducted. Samples of the fabric treated with liquid ammonia are tested for weft skew, post-wash twist, and shrinkage. Based on the results of the post-inspection physicochemical test, a tenter frame and a setting machine are used for final weft setting. Specifically, based on the weft skew level determined by the post-inspection physicochemical test, the tenter frame is used to widen and straighten the weft yarns, ensuring neat weft alignment. Then, based on the post-wash twist direction determined by the post-inspection physicochemical test, the setting machine performs a reverse pre-skewing setting process, opposite to the post-wash twist direction, while simultaneously performing a softening finish. This ensures that the weft skew is ≤2% and the post-wash twist is ≤3%. During this final weft setting process, the reverse pre-skewing setting and softening finish are performed simultaneously to ensure the fabric's dimensional stability and performance durability, resulting in a softer, smoother feel, improved wrinkle resistance, and further reduced post-wash twist.

[0007] This invention aims to fundamentally improve the pre-wash weft skew of yarn-dyed woven plaid fabrics during the dyeing and finishing process, and effectively eliminate post-wash twisting issues, thereby achieving a comprehensive improvement in fabric quality. During the initial and final weft setting processes, the fabric is widened and weft-set before the reverse pre-skewing process, simultaneously improving and correcting the transverse weft skew of the fabric. This addresses both the weft skew and post-wash twisting problems, meeting quality requirements.

[0008] Specifically, after desizing, the fabric undergoes intermediate-stage physical and chemical testing. Samples are taken to test the fabric's width, weft skew, post-wash twist, and shrinkage. Based on the results of these tests, a tenter frame and a setting machine are used for initial weft setting to improve weft skew and post-wash twist. After this initial setting, the fabric undergoes mercerizing and liquid ammonia treatment, causing the fibers to expand in the solution. Under tension, the fibers and yarns stabilize in a new equilibrium state, eliminating potential internal stress that could lead to post-wash twist, thus achieving durable stability and preventing quality issues related to post-wash twist. To further improve weft skew and post-wash twist, after liquid ammonia treatment, a final-stage physical and chemical test is conducted. Based on the results, a tenter frame and a setting machine are used for final weft setting to ensure weft skew ≤2% and post-wash twist ≤3%, meeting the internal quality control requirements for high-quality fabrics. The fabric is pre-shrinked after final weft setting to further improve its dimensional stability, shrinkage, and soft hand feel.

[0009] Preferably, in the initial weft straightening and setting process, the setting temperature of the reverse pre-tensioning and setting process is 140-150℃, and the setting time is 45-60 seconds; in the final weft straightening and setting process, the setting temperature of the reverse pre-tensioning and setting process is 140-150℃, the setting tension is 15N / cm-25N / cm, the setting speed is 20-60m / min, the setting time is 45-60 seconds, and the amount of softener used in the softening finishing process is 15-20g / L.

[0010] Preferably, the mercerizing treatment is a room temperature mercerizing treatment, using a caustic soda concentration of 140-230 g / L, a water washing temperature of 60-80℃, and a water washing time of 1-3 minutes to improve the fabric's luster and dimensional stability. After washing, the fabric is set using a setting machine. By setting appropriate temperature, tension, and speed, the fibers of the fabric are arranged more neatly under heat and stress conditions, eliminating internal stress in the fabric, thereby effectively improving weft skew and post-wash twisting.

[0011] Preferably, the liquid ammonia treatment process is as follows: first, the fabric is dried using a drying drum to reduce its moisture content to 2.8-3.2%; then, the fabric is cooled and immersed in a liquid ammonia padding tank, where the liquid ammonia temperature is maintained at -33.4℃, and the fabric is exposed to the liquid ammonia and ammonia gas for a total of 5-7 seconds; subsequently, the fabric is heated in an ammonification chamber to remove 90-95% of the ammonia content; finally, the fabric is washed with water at 80℃ to remove any residual ammonia odor. Liquid ammonia treatment can further improve the fabric's dimensional stability, wrinkle resistance, and softness.

[0012] Preferably, a steam pre-shrinking machine is used to pre-shrink the fabric. The pre-shrinking temperature is 130-140°C and the time is 30-60 seconds, so that the fabric can achieve uniform shrinkage in both the weft and warp directions during the pre-shrinking process, reducing the possibility of twisting after washing.

[0013] Preferably, the desizing process is as follows: first, the fabric is washed at a high temperature of 90°C to remove PVA and other sizing agents from the fabric surface; then, desizing amylase and a refining agent are applied to the fabric and steamed, wherein the amount of desizing amylase is 2-5 g / L, the amount of refining agent is 1-2 g / L, and the steaming temperature is 60-80°C; then, the fabric is piled at a temperature of 55-60°C for 45-60 minutes to remove starch and other sizing agents from the inside of the fabric while reducing damage to the fabric fibers; finally, the fabric is washed with hot water at 80-85°C until the desizing is complete.

[0014] Compared with existing technologies, the present invention has the following advantages: Based on the conventional process flow, the fabric dyeing and finishing method of the present invention refines the fabric production process by adding two stretching and weft straightening processes and two reverse pre-skewing and skew setting processes, based on the results of two physicochemical tests during the mid-process and post-processing of yarn-dyed woven plaid fabrics. Furthermore, mercerizing and liquid ammonia treatments are added to further improve the dimensional stability of the fabric. Through measures such as stretching and setting, pre-skewing, weft straightening, mercerizing, liquid ammonia treatment, and pre-shrinking, a balance is achieved between the two key performance indicators for measuring fabric stability: weft skew and post-wash twist. Detailed Implementation

[0015] The following are specific embodiments of the present invention, used to further illustrate the technical solution of the present invention. However, the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited to these embodiments, and any equivalent substitutions and improvements based on the technical solution of the present invention should fall within the scope of protection of the present invention. Raw materials, additives, processes, equipment, etc., not limited in the present invention, all adopt conventional technical means in the art.

[0016] Example 1

[0017] The fabric is a high-count, high-density yarn-dyed blue and white checkered pure cotton shirt fabric: CPT100S / 2*100S / 2 150*90, 2 / 1 twill. The warp and weft check size of the yarn-dyed fabric is 2.5cm*2.5cm. The greige fabric width is 67-68 inches, and the finished fabric width is 57-58 inches. The dyeing and finishing process of this fabric is as follows: yarn dyeing → warping → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → initial weft setting → mercerizing → liquid ammonia treatment → final weft setting → pre-shrinking. Some of the processes are described below:

[0018] 1. Singeing: The fabric is singeed on both sides at high speed. There are two burners on each side of the fabric with the maximum heat. The flame temperature is 800-900℃, the distance between the burners is about 2cm, the singeing speed is 100m / min, and the singeing order is one side and one side.

[0019] 2. Desizing: First, wash the fabric at 90℃. Then, apply desizing amylase and refining agent to the fabric and steam it. The dosage of desizing amylase is 4g / L and the dosage of refining agent is 1.5g / L. The steaming temperature is 60-80℃. After that, pile the fabric at 55-60℃ for 50 minutes. Finally, wash the fabric with hot water at 80-85℃ until the desizing is complete.

[0020] 3. China Inspection and Quarantine's physical and chemical testing: According to industry standard physical and chemical testing methods, sampled fabrics are tested for width, weft skew, post-wash twist, and shrinkage.

[0021] 4. Initial weft straightening and setting: Based on the weft skewness determined by the physical and chemical tests conducted by the China Inspection Center, the desized fabric is widened and straightened using a tenter frame to adjust the weft position of the fabric, ensuring that the weft skew angle is controlled within 1°. Then, based on the post-wash twist direction determined by the physical and chemical tests conducted by the China Inspection Center, a setting machine is used to perform a reverse pre-skewing and setting process on the fabric, which is opposite to the post-wash twist direction. The setting temperature is 140-150℃, and the setting time is 20-30 seconds, to further stabilize the dimensions of the fabric.

[0022] 5. Mercerizing treatment: The fabric after the initial weft setting is mercerized at a room temperature of about 25°C. The concentration of caustic soda used is 225g / L, the water washing temperature is 80°C, and the water washing time is 2 minutes. After washing, the fabric is set using a setting machine.

[0023] 6. Liquid ammonia treatment: The mercerized fabric is treated with liquid ammonia. The process is as follows: First, the fabric is dried in a drying drum to reduce the moisture content to 2.8-3.2%. Then, the fabric is cooled and placed in a liquid ammonia padding tank for immersion in liquid ammonia. The liquid ammonia temperature is maintained at -33.4℃, and the fabric is exposed to liquid ammonia and ammonia gas for a total of 5-7 seconds. After that, the fabric is heated in an ammonification chamber to remove 90-95% of the ammonia content. Finally, the fabric is washed with water at 80℃.

[0024] 7. Post-treatment physical and chemical testing: According to industry standard physical and chemical testing methods, sample and test the weft skew, post-wash twist and shrinkage of the fabric after liquid ammonia treatment.

[0025] 8. Final weft straightening and setting: Based on the weft skewness determined by the post-inspection physical and chemical tests, the fabric is widened and straightened using a tenter frame to ensure that the weft yarns are neatly arranged. Then, based on the post-wash twist direction determined by the post-inspection physical and chemical tests, the fabric is pre-stressed and set using a setting machine in the opposite direction to the post-wash twist direction, while simultaneously undergoing softening finishing. This ensures that the weft skewness is ≤2% and the post-wash twist is ≤3%. The setting temperature is 140℃, the setting tension is 15N / cm~25N / cm, the setting speed is 20~60m / min, the setting time is 45~60 seconds, and the amount of softener used in the softening finishing is 20g / L.

[0026] 9. Pre-shrinking treatment: The fabric is pre-shrinked using a steam pre-shrinking machine at a temperature of 130℃ for 45 seconds.

[0027] The physicochemical test results of the finished fabric in Example 1: After the above process, the weft skew quality of the fabric was improved from 4.2% in the conventional process to 1.2%, the twisting phenomenon after washing was significantly reduced from 5.6% in the conventional process to 2.7%, the fabric dimensions were stable after washing, the warp shrinkage rate was -2.1%, and the weft shrinkage rate was -1.6%, which met the internal control standard requirements for high-quality fabric with a warp shrinkage rate ≥ -3.0% and a weft shrinkage rate ≥ -2.5%.

[0028] Example 2

[0029] The fabric is a high-count, high-density, yarn-dyed light blue and white checkered cotton stretch fabric: CPT100S / 2*DL50+40D 150*90, 2 / 2 twill, 96% cotton / 4% spandex. The warp and weft check size of the yarn-dyed fabric is 1.2cm*1.2cm, the greige fabric width is 68-69 inches, and the finished fabric width is 53-54 inches. The dyeing and finishing process of this fabric is as follows: yarn dyeing → warping → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → initial weft setting → mercerizing → liquid ammonia treatment → final weft setting → pre-shrinking. Some of the processes are described below:

[0030] 1. Singeing: The fabric is singeed on both sides at high speed. There are two burners on each side of the fabric with the maximum heat. The flame temperature is 800-900℃ and the distance between the burners is about 2cm. The singeing speed is 90m / min. The singeing order is one side of the fabric followed by the other side.

[0031] 2. Desizing: First, wash the fabric at 90℃. Then, apply desizing amylase and refining agent to the fabric and steam it. The dosage of desizing amylase is 5g / L and the dosage of refining agent is 1g / L. The steaming temperature is 60-80℃. After that, pile the fabric at 55-60℃ for 50 minutes. Finally, wash the fabric with 85℃ hot water for 5 minutes until the desizing is complete.

[0032] 3. China Inspection and Quarantine's physical and chemical testing: According to industry standard physical and chemical testing methods, sampled fabrics are tested for width, weft skew, post-wash twist, and shrinkage.

[0033] 4. Initial weft straightening and setting: Based on the weft skewness determined by the physical and chemical tests conducted by the China Inspection Center, the desized fabric is widened and straightened using a tenter frame to adjust the weft position of the fabric, ensuring that the weft skew angle is controlled within 1°. Then, based on the post-wash twist direction determined by the physical and chemical tests conducted by the China Inspection Center, a setting machine is used to perform a reverse pre-skewing and setting process on the fabric, which is opposite to the post-wash twist direction. The setting temperature is 150°C and the setting time is 30 seconds to further stabilize the fabric dimensions.

[0034] 5. Mercerizing treatment: The fabric after the initial weft setting is mercerized at a room temperature of about 25°C. The concentration of caustic soda used is 220g / L, the water washing temperature is 80°C, and the water washing time is 3 minutes. After washing, the fabric is set using a setting machine.

[0035] 6. Liquid ammonia treatment: The mercerized fabric is treated with liquid ammonia. The process is as follows: First, the fabric is dried in a drying drum to reduce the moisture content to 2.8-3.2%. Then, the fabric is cooled and placed in a liquid ammonia padding tank for immersion in liquid ammonia. The liquid ammonia temperature is maintained at -33.4℃, and the fabric is exposed to liquid ammonia and ammonia gas for a total of 5-7 seconds. After that, the fabric is heated in an ammonification chamber to remove 90-95% of the ammonia content. Finally, the fabric is washed with water at 80℃.

[0036] 7. Post-treatment physical and chemical testing: According to industry standard physical and chemical testing methods, sample and test the weft skew, post-wash twist and shrinkage of the fabric after liquid ammonia treatment.

[0037] 8. Final weft straightening and setting: Based on the weft skewness determined by the post-inspection physical and chemical tests, the fabric is widened and straightened using a tenter frame to ensure that the weft yarns are neatly arranged. Then, based on the post-wash twist direction determined by the post-inspection physical and chemical tests, the fabric is pre-stressed and set using a setting machine in the opposite direction to the post-wash twist direction, while simultaneously undergoing softening finishing. This ensures that the weft skewness is ≤2% and the post-wash twist is ≤3%. The setting temperature is 150℃, the setting tension is 20N / cm~25N / cm, the setting speed is 15~25m / min, the setting time is 35 seconds, and the amount of softener used in the softening finishing is 15g / L.

[0038] 9. Pre-shrinking treatment: The fabric is pre-shrinked using a steam pre-shrinking machine at a temperature of 140℃ for 45 seconds.

[0039] The culinary test results of the finished noodles in Example 2:

[0040] Pre-wash skewness: Test results show that the skewness of the fabric after processing using the method of Example 2 is about 1.6%, while the skewness of the same type of fabric without the method is about 3.8%. The processing method of Example 2 has a significant effect on improving the skewness of the fabric.

[0041] Post-wash distortion: After washing tests, the fabric processed using the method of Example 2 showed a distortion of only 1.8% after washing, compared to 5.2% for the fabric not processed using this method. The processing method of Example 2 performed excellently in improving post-wash distortion, and the processed fabric exhibited dimensional stability. Furthermore, the fabric's shrinkage after washing was -2.1% in the warp and -1.6% in the weft, demonstrating excellent dimensional stability.

[0042] In Examples 1 and 2 above, the pre- and post-inspection physicochemical testing methods adopted existing industry testing methods. The industry standard for fabric skewness testing is as follows: a representative sample of 2-meter full-width fabric is tested. Before washing, the skewness is tested according to the GB / T 14801 standard method. The standard for fabric spinality testing is as follows: after marking the fabric sample, it is washed according to the GB / T 8629 4N procedure, tumble dried, and then equilibrated in a constant temperature and humidity laboratory for 4 hours. After washing, the fabric sample is tested for spinality according to the GB / T 23319.2A method, and the shrinkage rate is simultaneously tested according to GB / T 8630.

[0043] The main dyeing and finishing equipment used in Examples 1 and 2 above is as follows: singeing is done with a Kyoto gas singeing machine from Japan; desizing is done with a Bruckner combined desizing, scouring and bleaching mercerizing machine from Germany; mercerizing is done with a SANDO mercerizing machine from Japan; liquid ammonia treatment is done with Kyoto liquid ammonia treatment equipment from Japan; the tenter frame is a Z921-200 type tenter frame from Wuxi Yonghong; and the setting machine is a POWER-FRAME setting machine from Bruckner GmbH from Germany.

[0044] In summary, the dyeing and finishing method of this invention can significantly reduce weft skew in yarn-dyed woven plaid fabrics and effectively improve the problem of fabric twisting after washing. It optimizes and achieves a reasonable balance between the two related technical indicators of weft skew and post-wash twisting. This invention achieves a balance between the two key performance indicators of fabric stability—weft skew and post-wash twisting—through measures such as fabric stretching and setting, pre-skewing, weft straightening, mercerizing, liquid ammonia treatment, and pre-shrinking. These measures not only improve the quality and dimensional stability of the fabric but also enhance the appearance and service life of the final product.

Claims

1. A dyeing and finishing method for a yarn-dyed woven checkered fabric, characterized in that, The process flow of this dyeing and finishing method is as follows: yarn dyeing → warping → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → initial weft setting → mercerizing → liquid ammonia treatment → final weft setting → pre-shrinking treatment, wherein: Before the initial weft straightening and setting, a mid-term inspection physical and chemical test is conducted. The fabric width, weft skew, post-wash twist, and shrinkage are sampled and tested after desizing. Based on the results of the mid-term inspection physical and chemical test, a tenter frame and a setting machine are used to perform the initial weft straightening and setting of the fabric. Specifically, based on the degree of weft skew in the mid-term inspection physical and chemical test, the fabric is widened and straightened using a tenter frame to adjust the weft position of the fabric so that the weft skew angle is controlled within 1°. Then, based on the post-wash twist direction in the mid-term inspection physical and chemical test, the setting machine is used to perform a reverse pre-skewing and setting process on the fabric, which is opposite to the post-wash twist direction, to further stabilize the dimensions of the fabric. Before the final weft straightening and setting, a post-inspection physicochemical test is conducted. Samples of the fabric treated with liquid ammonia are tested for weft skew, post-wash twist, and shrinkage. Based on the results of the post-inspection physicochemical test, a tenter frame and a setting machine are used to perform the final weft straightening and setting of the fabric. Specifically, based on the degree of weft skew from the post-inspection physicochemical test, the tenter frame is used to widen and straighten the weft of the fabric to ensure that the weft yarns are neatly arranged. Then, based on the post-wash twist direction from the post-inspection physicochemical test, the setting machine is used to perform reverse pre-skewing and setting processing on the fabric in the opposite direction of the post-wash twist direction, and softening treatment is performed simultaneously to ensure that the weft skew of the fabric is ≤2% and the post-wash twist is ≤3%.

2. The dyeing and finishing method for a yarn-dyed woven checkered fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the initial weft straightening and setting process, the setting temperature for the reverse pre-tensioning and setting process is 140-150℃, and the setting time is 45-60 seconds. In the final weft straightening and setting process, the setting temperature for the reverse pre-tensioning and setting process is 140-150℃, the setting tension is 15N / cm-25N / cm, the setting speed is 20-60m / min, the setting time is 45-60 seconds, and the amount of softener used in the softening finishing process is 15-20g / L.

3. The dyeing and finishing method for a yarn-dyed woven checkered fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The mercerizing treatment is a room temperature mercerizing treatment, using a caustic soda concentration of 140-230 g / L, a water washing temperature of 60-80℃, a water washing time of 1-3 minutes, and a setting machine to set the fabric after washing.

4. The dyeing and finishing method for a yarn-dyed woven checkered fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The liquid ammonia treatment process is as follows: First, the fabric is dried using a drying cylinder to reduce its moisture content to 2.8-3.2%. Then, the fabric is cooled and placed in a liquid ammonia padding tank for immersion in liquid ammonia. The liquid ammonia temperature is maintained at -33.4℃, and the fabric is exposed to liquid ammonia and ammonia gas for a total of 5-7 seconds. After that, the fabric is heated in an ammonification chamber to remove 90-95% of the ammonia content. Finally, the fabric is washed with water at 80℃.

5. The dyeing and finishing method for a yarn-dyed woven checkered fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The fabric is pre-shrinked using a steam pre-shrinking machine at a temperature of 130–140°C for 30–60 seconds.

6. The dyeing and finishing method for a yarn-dyed woven checkered fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The desizing process is as follows: First, the fabric is washed with water at 90℃. Then, desizing amylase and refining agent are applied to the fabric and steamed. The amount of desizing amylase is 2-5 g / L, the amount of refining agent is 1-2 g / L, and the steaming temperature is 60-80℃. After that, the fabric is piled up at a temperature of 55-60℃ for 45-60 minutes. Finally, the fabric is washed with hot water at 80-85℃ until the desizing is complete.