An antimicelle composition and its application in cosmetics

Abstract

This invention discloses a reverse micelle composition and its application in cosmetics. The raw materials for preparing the reverse micelle composition include: (a) a skin care oil; (b) a polyglycerol fatty acid ester; (c) a diol compound with a molecular weight not greater than 200 and having at least one ether bond on its molecular chain; and (d) water. By using the above-mentioned diol compound in the reverse micelle composition, whose structure is similar to that of the polyglycerol moiety of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester, and with strong interaction, the stability of the aggregates formed by the polyglycerol fatty acid ester can be improved, thereby solving the problem of poor stability of existing reverse micelle compositions.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to reverse micelle compositions for use in cosmetics. Background Technology

[0002] With technological advancements and consumption upgrades, modern consumers have placed dual demands on the appearance and efficacy of cosmetics. Especially in the oil-based product sector, consumers not only require a clear and transparent appearance but also expect the introduction of water-soluble active ingredients (such as niacinamide and vitamin C) on top of oil-soluble active ingredients to achieve more comprehensive skincare benefits. To meet this demand, oil-based products based on reverse micelle technology have emerged. These reverse micelle compositions, by selecting specific surfactants, orient them to form aggregate structures with "hydrophilic heads facing inwards and hydrophobic tails facing outwards," thereby constructing hydrophilic "nanocells" within the oil phase. These effectively encapsulate water-soluble active ingredients while maintaining the overall uniformity and transparency of the product.

[0003] However, existing reverse micelle compositions still face the problem of insufficient stability in practical applications, especially in high-temperature environments (such as summer storage temperatures reaching 45°C), where their structure is easily damaged, leading to component separation and consequently, product turbidity and stratification. Therefore, developing a reverse micelle composition with good storage stability, especially high-temperature storage stability, has become an urgent technical challenge to be solved. Summary of the Invention

[0004] To address the shortcomings of the prior art, the present invention aims to provide a reverse micelle composition comprising a diol compound with a molecular weight not greater than 200 and having at least one ether bond on its molecular chain. This diol compound has a structure similar to the polyglycerol portion of the emulsifier component polyglycerol fatty acid ester, and the interaction is strong, which can improve the stability of the aggregates formed by the polyglycerol fatty acid ester, thereby solving the problem of poor stability of existing reverse micelle compositions.

[0005] The reverse micelle composition is prepared from the following raw materials:

[0006] (a) Skin care oil;

[0007] (b) Polyglycerol fatty acid esters;

[0008] (c) A diol compound having a molecular weight of not more than 200 and having at least one ether bond on its molecular chain;

[0009] (d) Water;

[0010] The mass ratio of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester to the diol compound is 1:0.1~5.

[0011] By controlling the molecular weight of the diol compound to be no greater than 200, the diol compound tends to disperse in water, thus ensuring that it can effectively interact with the hydrophilic polyglycerol portion of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester in the aqueous phase. At the same time, the diol compound contains at least one ether bond, so that the diol compound contains both hydroxyl and ether bonds in its structure, which is similar to the structure of the hydrophilic polyglycerol portion of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester. The interaction between the two is strong, which is beneficial to the stability of the aggregates formed by the polyglycerol fatty acid ester.

[0012] In some embodiments of the present invention, the skin care oil includes at least one of olive oil, grape seed oil, sunflower seed oil, almond oil, avocado oil, and squalane.

[0013] In some embodiments of the present invention, the skin care oil comprises 60-90 wt% by weight. A weight percentage of skin care oil within this range ensures that the resulting reverse micelle composition contains a sufficient amount of oily active ingredients.

[0014] In some embodiments of the present invention, the polymer of the polyglycerol portion of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is 2 to 10.

[0015] In some embodiments of the present invention, the fatty acid portion of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from at least one of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and oleic acid.

[0016] In some embodiments of the present invention, the fatty acid portion of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from at least one of stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.

[0017] In some embodiments of the present invention, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from at least one of polyglycerol-2 stearate, polyglycerol-2 distearate, polyglycerol-2 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglycerol-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglycerol-2 sesquioleate, polyglycerol-3 distearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, and polyglycerol-5 hexastearate.

[0018] In some embodiments of the present invention, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester comprises 0.1 to 10 wt% by weight. A mass percentage of polyglycerol fatty acid ester within this range allows the resulting reverse micelle composition to encapsulate a sufficient amount of water-soluble active ingredient without significantly affecting the skin feel of the reverse micelle composition.

[0019] In some embodiments of the present invention, the diol compound is selected from at least one of triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol (polyethylene glycol-4), dipropylene glycol, and tripropylene glycol. The aforementioned types of diol compounds have relatively short alkyl chains, which is beneficial for their dispersion in an aqueous phase.

[0020] In some embodiments of the present invention, the diol compound is selected from dipropylene glycol and a combination of at least one of triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, and tripropylene glycol. The structure of dipropylene glycol HO-CH(CH3)-CH2-O-CH2-CH(CH3)-OH is very similar to the structure of the hydrophilic polyglycerol portion of polyglycerol fatty acid esters, which is beneficial to the stability of the aggregates formed by polyglycerol fatty acid esters.

[0021] In some embodiments of the present invention, the diol compound is selected from dipropylene glycol and triethylene glycol in a mass ratio of 0.5 to 3:1. Triethylene glycol contains two hydroxyl groups and two ether bonds, and the alkyl chain of the ether bonds is relatively short, making it more likely to disperse in the aqueous phase. Its interaction with dipropylene glycol is more conducive to the stability of the aggregates formed by polyglycerol fatty acid esters.

[0022] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mass ratio of dipropylene glycol to triethylene glycol is 1 to 2:1.

[0023] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mass ratio of dipropylene glycol to triethylene glycol is 1 to 1.5:1.

[0024] In some embodiments of the present invention, the reverse micelle composition further includes (e) a water-soluble active skin care ingredient.

[0025] In some embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble active skin care ingredients include at least one of niacinamide, vitamin C and its derivatives, tranexamic acid, N-acetylglucosamine, amino acids, polypeptides (such as carnosine, acetyl hexapeptide-8), ergothioneine, yeast fermentation products, calendula extract, aloe vera extract, licorice root extract, and green tea extract.

[0026] In some embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble active skin care ingredient accounts for 0.01 to 10 wt% by mass.

[0027] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing an antimicelle composition, comprising the following steps:

[0028] S1. Mix skin care oil and polyglycerol fatty acid ester to obtain the oil phase;

[0029] S2. Mix the diol compound and water to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0030] S3. Add the aqueous phase to the oil phase and mix thoroughly to obtain the reverse micelle composition.

[0031] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mixing temperature in step S1 is 20~60°C.

[0032] In some embodiments of the present invention, the mixing temperature in step S2 is 20~60°C.

[0033] In some embodiments of the present invention, in step S3, the aqueous phase is added to the oil phase under stirring conditions.

[0034] In some embodiments of the present invention, the stirring speed is 50~1000 r / min.

[0035] In some embodiments of the present invention, step S3 further includes the step of adding water-soluble active skin care ingredients at room temperature.

[0036] Another object of the present invention is to provide an application of an antimicelle composition in the preparation of cosmetics.

[0037] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0038] By adding polyglycerol fatty acid esters and diol compounds with a molecular weight of no more than 200 and having at least one ether bond in the molecular chain to the reverse micelle composition, the diol compounds can generate a strong interaction with the hydrophilic polyglycerol portion of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester in the aqueous phase, thereby stabilizing the aggregates formed by the polyglycerol fatty acid ester and enabling the reverse micelle composition to maintain good stability.

[0039] Furthermore, the structure of the main isomer of dipropylene glycol is very similar to that of the hydrophilic polyglycerol portion of polyglycerol fatty acid esters, which is beneficial to the stability of the aggregates formed by polyglycerol fatty acid esters. In addition, when dipropylene glycol is used together with triethylene glycol, which is more inclined to disperse in the aqueous phase, the synergistic effect of the two can further improve the stability of the reverse micelle composition. Detailed Implementation

[0040] To enable those skilled in the art to better understand the technical solutions of this invention, the technical solutions of this invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the embodiments of this invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of this invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of this invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort should fall within the scope of protection of this invention.

[0041] Unless otherwise specified, all raw materials used in this invention are commercially available products.

[0042] Example 1

[0043] This embodiment provides a reverse micelle composition, which, based on a total mass of 100g, is formulated as follows: 80g olive oil, 5g polyglycerol-2 stearate, 6g tripropylene glycol, and the remainder deionized water.

[0044] Examples 2-16 and Comparative Examples 1-3

[0045] The difference between the above examples / comparative examples and Example 1 is that the types and amounts of the skin care oils, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, diol compounds, and water-soluble active skin care ingredients used are different. Everything else is the same as in Example 1, as detailed in Tables 1 and 2.

[0046] The preparation method of the antimicelle compositions in the examples and comparative examples includes the following steps:

[0047] S1. Mix polyglycerol fatty acid ester and skin care oil by stirring at 50°C according to the corresponding mass to obtain the oil phase;

[0048] S2. Mix the diol compound and water according to the corresponding mass at 25°C to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0049] S3. Under stirring conditions, the aqueous phase is added to the oil phase and mixed evenly to obtain the reverse micelle composition.

[0050] The preparation method of the reverse micelle composition in the above examples / comparative examples, when involving water-soluble active skin care ingredients, further includes the step of adding the aqueous phase to the oil phase and mixing them evenly, then cooling to room temperature before adding the water-soluble active skin care ingredients.

[0051] Table 1 (Unit: g)

[0052]

[0053] Table 2 (Unit: g)

[0054]

[0055] The reverse micelle compositions obtained in Examples 1-16 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were stored in constant temperature incubators at room temperature and 45°C, respectively. The appearance of the reverse micelle compositions was observed every 5 days for a total of 180 days. The times when the obtained reverse micelle compositions began to show turbidity and stratification were recorded. The specific results are shown in Table 3.

[0056] Table 3

[0057]

[0058] As shown in Table 3, the reverse micelle compositions prepared in Examples 1-16 of this invention can be stably stored for six months at room temperature and for more than four months to six months at 45°C without mixing or separating, exhibiting good room temperature and high temperature storage properties, meeting the requirements for transparent oily products. In contrast, the reverse micelle compositions prepared in Comparative Examples 1-3 without the addition of diol compounds with a molecular weight of no more than 200 and at least one ether bond in the molecular chain, as described in this invention, only showed turbidity after three months of stable storage at room temperature and less than two months after storage at 45°C.

[0059] Furthermore, a comparison between Examples 1-3, 9-11 and Examples 4-8, 12-16 shows that when the diol compound with a molecular weight of no more than 200 and at least one ether bond on its molecular chain includes dipropylene glycol, better high-temperature storage stability can be obtained. In particular, a comparison between Examples 6, 9-12, 14, 16 and Examples 13, 15 shows that when the diol compound with a molecular weight of no more than 200 and at least one ether bond on its molecular chain is used in a certain mass ratio of dipropylene glycol and triethylene glycol, the two have a synergistic effect in improving the high-temperature stability of the micelle composition.

[0060] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention and not to limit it. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the above embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that after reading this application specification, they can still modify or make equivalent substitutions to the specific implementation of the present invention, but these modifications or changes do not depart from the protection scope of the pending claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. A reverse micelle composition, characterized in that, Its raw materials include: (a) Skin care oil; (b) Polyglycerol fatty acid esters; (c) A diol compound with a molecular weight not greater than 200 and having at least one ether bond on its molecular chain; (d) Water; The mass ratio of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester to the diol compound is 1:0.1~5. The polyglycerol fatty acid ester is selected from polyglycerol-2 diisostearate; The diol compound is a combination of dipropylene glycol and triethylene glycol, wherein the mass ratio of dipropylene glycol to triethylene glycol is 0.5 to 3:

1.

2. The reverse micelle composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The skincare oil includes at least one of olive oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, almond oil, avocado oil, and squalane.

3. The reverse micelle composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The amount of the skin care oil used is 60-90 wt% of the reverse micelle composition, based on the mass percentage.

4. The reverse micelle composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The amount of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester used is 0.1 to 10 wt% of the reverse micelle composition, based on the mass percentage.

5. A method for preparing the antimicelle composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Mix the polyglycerol fatty acid ester and the skin care oil to obtain the oil phase; S2. Mix the diol compound and the water to obtain an aqueous phase; S3. Add the aqueous phase to the oil phase and mix thoroughly to obtain the reverse micelle composition.

6. The use of the antimicelle composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in the preparation of cosmetics.

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