Cut gemstone and method for producing same

Abstract

The invention relates to a cut gemstone and to a method for the production thereof, in particular a cut gemstone or semi-gemstone, comprising a crown topped on a table top, a pavilion, and a waist at the intersection of the crown and pavilion wherein the surface of the facet P2 has a cutting angle comprised between 35 DEG and 45 DEG, wherein the surface of the facet P4 has a cutting angle comprised between 25 DEG and 35 DEG, and wherein the ratio between the total height (H) and the diameter or length (L) of the cut gemstone or semi-gemstone is less than 0.50, preferably comprised between 0.50 and 0.40, and more particularly approximately 0.43.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cut gemstones and semi-precious stones (including diamonds), and more specifically to gemstones and semi-precious stones for use in the field of watchmaking or jewelry. Background Technology

[0002] In high-end timepieces, hard materials (such as jade, mother-of-pearl, onyx, or gemstones or semi-precious stones (especially diamonds)) are often added to the dial or other external parts of the timepiece (such as the watch or watch buckle) or jewelry pieces.

[0003] To achieve a specific aesthetic effect, the original shape can be designed, including the original shape used for embedding work. However, these hard materials, especially cut gemstones or semi-precious stones, must be arranged in perfect geometry.

[0004] In fact, the optimal insertion of these hard materials (especially cut gemstones or semi-precious stones) into the various components of the exterior is a decisive factor in the quality and finish of timepieces or jewelry pieces, and defines the manufacturer's brand image.

[0005] When viewed in cross-section, a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone has an upper portion called the crown and a lower portion called the pavilion.

[0006] The upper part of the crown forms the table; the crown separates from the pavilion through the girdle, and the lower end of the pavilion forms the culet of a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone.

[0007] The sides of both the pavilion and the crown include multiple facets, which are named according to their shapes: star-shaped facets on the crown and pavilion, upper / lower waist facets (halefi), kite facets or table corners, or lower waist facets (halefi) on the pavilion.

[0008] Cutting gemstones or semi-precious stones (especially diamonds) is both an art and a science. Certificates for cut gemstones or semi-precious stones (including diamonds) contain certain specifications to characterize the cut and quality of the gemstone.

[0009] The certificate will show a cross-sectional view of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone and its values, as well as measurements of the angles between the facets and the length axis of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone. This cut also provides information on the quality of the cut and complements the cut grading, which is added to other factors (the four Cs of cut, color, clarity, and carat) used to certify the quality of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone, especially in the case of diamonds.

[0010] A cut gemstone or semi-precious stone is defined not only by its proportions (such as its total height (H) measured between the table and girdle), but also by the crown height (C) and pavilion height (P) of the girdle (when these values ​​are calculated between the table and diameter (or length (L) measured at the girdle) of the gemstone, and between the girdle and said diameter (or length (L) measured at the girdle) of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone). Furthermore, cut gemstones or semi-precious stones that differ from round brilliant cuts are also defined by the minimum diameter (U) of the table and the minimum diameter (or width) (W) of the girdle.

[0011] The total height (H) or thickness of a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone is defined in millimeters and is measured between the culet and table of the cut gemstone. This value is understood in conjunction with the length and width of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone, along with the ratio between its total height (H) and its length or width (L or W), to define the characteristics of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone in the certificate.

[0012] The quality of the correct proportions of a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone is determined using a proportionometer, which analyzes the efficiency of light reflected from one facet to another, the dissipation gained, and the light reflection through the table. In fact, light penetrates a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone, and the overall height of the stone affects the path and reflection of these rays within the cut.

[0013] To achieve maximum brilliance and the highest cut quality dimensions (especially in diamonds), the result will depend not only on the shape of the cut gemstone, particularly the absence of known defects (such as off-center table, off-center pavilion, excessively large culet, distorted profile around the girdle, misaligned facets, misaligned crown and pavilion, wavy girdle, streaks or scratches from polishing), but also on its connection to the other facets of the cut gemstone and thus how light will be reflected toward the observer at the correct angle.

[0014] Japanese patent application JP 4709088 explains that an ideally cut gemstone (GIA type) has a pavilion cut angle of 40.75°, a crown cut angle of 34.5°, and a table diameter of 53% of the girdle diameter, just as a gemstone with a pavilion cut angle (P1) with increasing values ​​(i.e., included between 40° and 46°) and a crown angle (C) included between 14° and 37° would be the same.

[0015] European patent application EP 1110472, with reference to Figure 3, describes a cut gemstone having a first crown facet (25), a second crown facet (26), a third crown facet (27), and a fourth pavilion facet (28), the cutting angles of which are respectively between 10° and 25°, between 10° and 25°, between 25° and 35°, between 35° and 55°, and between 25° and 35°. The patent application also mentions that the third facet (27) and the fourth facet (28) may have cutting angles between 30° and 42°, and that facets 27 and 28 have cutting angles between 25° and 35°, between 35° and 55°, or between 30° and 42°.

[0016] US Patent 11,633,323, with reference to Figure 4, illustrates the values ​​of the cutting angles for facets 32A, 32B, and 34, which are caused by supplementary cutting of the base of the cut diamond. For the other facets, the diamond has cutting angles between 25° and 60°, preferably between 32° and 38°, and between 36° and 42°.

[0017] UK Patent GB 4343652 describes faceted diamonds with facets having cutting angles between 20° and 70°.

[0018] Swiss Patent CH 713 602 describes a small star-shaped cut gemstone and a method for producing it to facilitate its insertion into a watch dial, wherein the facets a, b, c and d on the crown of the cut gemstone have cutting angles that are respectively between 15° and 23°, between 18° and 26°, between 24° and 32° and between 36° and 44°.

[0019] However, the dimensions of cut gemstones or semi-precious stones with the original shapes commonly found in the prior art, which refer to the total height of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone, and especially its thickness, are not suitable for optimal insertion into all timepieces, especially for their arrangement on the outer parts of the watch (such as the flange of the dial or the case back) or on the buckle of the watch or wristband.

[0020] In fact, the maximum thickness of the inserted gemstone will be limited by the thickness of the dial (assuming the cut gemstone extends across the entire thickness of the dial) and by the available space between the dial and the hands so as not to impede the movement of the latter.

[0021] Therefore, in order to achieve optimal integration of cut gemstones or semi-precious stones into the flanges of a timepiece or into the case back of the dial on a timepiece (such as a watch), the challenge lies in producing gemstones or semi-precious stones of the correct size, and more specifically, very thin gemstones or semi-precious stones, which means having the minimum possible total height without breaking them, while retaining the brilliance and aesthetic qualities required for decorative timepieces, especially high-quality watches. Summary of the Invention

[0022] The purpose of this invention The object of this invention is to produce cut gemstones or semi-precious stones (including diamonds) and to provide a method for producing them that does not have any of the disadvantages of the prior art.

[0023] More specifically, the present invention aims to produce gemstones or semi-precious stones cut in a marquise or brilliance cut, i.e., having a minimum total height (H) between the culet and table (T) of the cut gemstone, while retaining the brilliance and attractive aesthetic appearance required for decorative timepieces (especially high-quality watches) or fine jewelry pieces.

[0024] The present invention further aims to produce gemstones or semi-precious stones cut in such a way that they do not become brittle and can be set in jewelry pieces.

[0025] Finally, the present invention aims to produce a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone that is cut according to plan and preferably retains the brilliance properties required for the cut, so as to be certified by international certification bodies (such as GIA, AGS, HRD, GSI, EGL, SSEF or GRS) as good, very good, perfect or even ideal quality (according to AGS standards).

[0026] The present invention relates to a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone (including diamond), which preferably has a fancy cut, such as marquise or brilliant cut.

[0027] For these purposes, the cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the invention, their production methods and inlays for use therein, as well as dials and timepieces (especially watches) or jewelry pieces, are defined according to the appended claims.

[0028] The inventors have discovered that cut gemstones or semi-precious stones can be advantageously used in the external parts of timepieces (especially watches), such as the rim of the timepiece or the case back of the dial, which have a reduced total height and are therefore advantageously characterized by the ratio between the total height (H) of the cut gemstone, measured in millimeters, and its diameter or length (L), measured in millimeters, which is less than 0.50, preferably between 0.50 and 0.40, and more specifically approximately 0.43.

[0029] The cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the invention include a crown with a table top, a pavilion, and a girdle at the intersection of the crown and the pavilion, and more specifically, gemstones with marquise or brilliance cuts.

[0030] The cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the present invention can be not only diamonds or precious stones, especially precious stones selected from the group consisting of emeralds, rubies and sapphires; but also cut so-called “fine” gemstones, such as spinel, tourmaline, topaz, amethyst, citrine, peridot, tanzanite, aquamarine or garnet.

[0031] In the cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the invention, the surface of facet P2 has a cutting angle between 35° and 45°, and the surface of facet P4 has a cutting angle between 25° and 35°.

[0032] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the gemstone or semi-precious stone cut according to the invention also has specific cutting surfaces for other facets, which have one or more of the characteristics described below: - The surface of facet P1 has a cutting angle between 35° and 45°, preferably approximately 40°; - The surface of facet P3 has a cutting angle between 25° and 35°, preferably approximately 30°; - The surface of facet P5 has a cutting angle between 37° and 47°, preferably approximately 42°; - The surface of facet P6 has a cutting angle between 37.5° and 47.5°, preferably approximately 42.5°; - The surface of facet P7 has a cutting angle that is between 38° and 48°, preferably approximately 42.59°.

[0033] According to the invention, "the cutting angle of a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone" is understood to mean an angle measured in degrees (or degrees) between the surface of the facet or pavilion and the plane formed by the girdle of the gemstone or, optionally, the table plane of the cut gemstone. The cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the invention are of the fancy type and will have a size and number of facets that correspond to generally accepted limitations for each cut type of these gemstones and enable them to be endowed with optimal brilliance and an attractive aesthetic appearance, while ensuring compatibility with settings on dials or other high-quality horological or jewelry items.

[0034] The invention also relates to portions of timepieces or jewelry pieces incorporating cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the invention, particularly clasps or dials on timepieces.

[0035] These parts used in timepieces or jewelry are preferably assembled using fastening devices that are virtually invisible to the user and allow for an attractive display of the cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the invention.

[0036] Another aspect of the invention relates to a method for obtaining cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the invention, wherein unprocessed gemstones or semi-precious stones (including unprocessed diamonds) or cut gemstones or semi-precious stones (including cut diamonds) undergo at least one or more steps, wherein the facets of the processed gemstone are polished in order to obtain cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the proportions of the invention.

[0037] Initially, prior to one or more polishing steps, the unprocessed or cut gemstone or semi-precious stone undergoes known steps involved in cutting gemstones or semi-precious stones, including cleaving, sawing, roughing, and cross-cutting, to produce cut gemstones or semi-precious stones according to the invention.

[0038] The objects, advantages, and features of the invention will be described in detail in the description section with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are presented as preferred and non-limiting illustrations of the invention. Attached Figure Description

[0039] Figures 1A to 1F This is a view of a cut gemstone according to the invention, which includes a crown with a table top, a pavilion, and a girdle at the intersection of the crown and the pavilion, wherein the facets of the crown and the pavilion or the pavilion itself are numbered. Figure 1A and Figure 1D These are cross-sectional and side views of the numbered facets of a conventional brilliant-cut diamond. Figure 1B , Figure 1C and Figure 1E This is a side view of the numbered facets of a gemstone cut according to the present invention. Figure 1F This is a perspective view of the same gemstone cut according to the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0040] This invention relates to a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone and its production or cutting method, as well as any timepiece (particularly a watch dial or clasp) or any jewelry piece in which the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone is set using fastening devices for securing the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone, for example, to the dial of a timepiece, particularly to the dial itself or to the flange of the dial on a watch. This type of cut gemstone or semi-precious stone according to the invention can also be set, incorporated into settings, and formed as part of a jewelry piece.

[0041] This invention is described more specifically for diamonds of any color type, but it can also refer to any decorative gemstone referred to as a gem or semi-precious stone (especially a cut precious gemstone), which means not only diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, but also cut so-called “fine” gemstones such as spinel, tourmaline, topaz, amethyst, citrine, peridot, tanzanite, aquamarine, garnet, etc.

[0042] The accompanying drawings illustrate several schematic diagrams of gemstones or semi-precious stones cut according to the present invention. As shown in the drawings, gemstones or semi-precious stones cut according to the present invention can be produced having 12 pavilion facets, 5 girdle facets, and 5 + 1 crown facets, for a total of 23 facets.

[0043] In the gemstones or semi-precious stones cut according to the invention, as shown in the accompanying drawings, the preferred ratios between various measurements of the gemstones or semi-precious stones cut according to the invention are as follows: L / W = 1.56; T / W = 1.280; U / W = 0.759; V / W^3 = 0.172; P / W = 0.318; C / W = 0.047; H / W = 0.383 and P / C = 6.843.

[0044] Furthermore, the gemstones or semi-precious stones cut according to the invention are also characterized by the values ​​of their measured angles in degrees (°). In the table below, the angle values ​​correspond to the cutting angles of the facets (facets or pavilions) of the cut gemstones or semi-precious stones. According to the invention, a margin or variation of approximately plus or minus 5° can be provided for the values ​​of the cutting angles in the gemstones or semi-precious stones cut according to the invention.

[0045] The gemstones or semi-precious stones cut according to the invention can be set and inserted into timepieces and advantageously retain the brilliance properties required for their cut, so as to be certified by international certification bodies (such as GIA, AGS, IGI, HRD, GSI, EGL, SSEF or GRS) as good, very good, perfect or even ideal quality (according to AGS standards).

[0046] Facets G1: 90.00 P1: 40.00 G2: 90.00 P2: 40.00 P3: 30.00 P4: 30.00 P5: 42.00 P6: 42.50 P7: 42.59 T: 0.00 mesa C1： 25.00 25.00。

Claims

1. A cut gemstone or semi-precious stone comprising a crown with a table as its top, a pavilion, and a girdle at the intersection of the crown and the pavilion, characterized in that, The surface of facet P2 has a cutting angle between 35° and 45°, the surface of facet P4 has a cutting angle between 25° and 35°, and the ratio between the total height (H) and the diameter or length (L) of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone is less than 0.

5.

2. The gemstone or semi-precious stone according to claim 1, wherein the ratio between the total height (H) and the diameter or length (L) of the cut gemstone or semi-precious stone comprises a value between 0.5 and 0.4, and more specifically approximately 0.

43.

3. The gemstone or semi-precious stone according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: - The surface of facet P1 has a cutting angle between 35° and 45°, preferably approximately 40°; - The surface of facet P3 has a cutting angle between 25° and 35°, preferably approximately 30°; - The surface of facet P5 has a cutting angle between 37° and 47°, preferably approximately 42°; - The surface of facet P6 has a cutting angle between 37.5° and 47.5°, preferably approximately 42.5°; - The surface of facet P7 has a cutting angle that is between 38° and 48°, preferably approximately 42.59°.

4. The gemstone or semi-precious stone according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, It features either a marquise cut or a shimmering cut.

5. The cut gemstone or semi-precious stone according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, It is a diamond.

6. The cut gemstone or semi-precious stone according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that, It is a precious gemstone.

7. The cut gemstone or semi-precious stone according to claim 6, characterized in that, It is a fine gemstone selected from the following group: spinel, tourmaline, topaz, amethyst, citrine, peridot, tanzanite, aquamarine, and garnet.

8. A portion for a timepiece, said portion comprising an opening for receiving an inlay for a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone according to any one of the preceding claims.

9. The timepiece portion according to claim 8, characterized in that, It is a timepiece frame.

10. A timepiece comprising a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone or timepiece portion according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. The timepiece according to claim 10, characterized in that, It is a watch.

12. An inlay comprising a base for setting a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone according to any one of claims 1 to 7.

13. A piece of jewelry comprising a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or an inlay according to claim 12.

14. A method for producing a cut gemstone or semi-precious stone according to any one of claims 1 to 7, the method comprising one or more steps wherein the facets of the gemstone or semi-precious stone are polished.

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