A composition with both ultraviolet protection and light damage repair and a preparation method thereof

Abstract

This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically to a composition and its preparation method that combines UV protection and photodamage repair. By weight, it comprises the following components: 0.5-10 parts of lipase-directed hydrolysis of rosemary extract, 0.3-8 parts of Bifidobacterium-fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract, 0.2-6 parts of compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, 0.4-9 parts of yeast-deep-fermented Ganoderma lucidum extract, 0.1-5 parts of recombinant type I humanized collagen, 0.01-2 parts of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.01-2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 3-30 parts of moisturizing matrix, 1-10 parts of emulsification system, 0.15-1.5 parts of thickening system, 3-18 parts of skin-moisturizing system, 0.32-1.2 parts of functional additives, and 40-85 parts of deionized water. This composition combines UV protection and photodamage repair with excellent storage and light stability, better meeting practical application needs.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically to a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. Background Technology

[0002] Ultraviolet radiation is the core external cause of photoaging of the skin. UVB (280-320nm) can penetrate the stratum corneum and cause acute sunburn and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, while UVA (320-400nm) can reach the dermis and induce free radical bursts, causing collagen degradation and fiber breakage, ultimately leading to photoaging symptoms such as skin laxity, wrinkles, and dullness. In severe cases, it can induce cell DNA damage and cancer.

[0003] Currently available anti-photoaging products generally have several problems in practical application. For example, sunscreens only reduce UV penetration through physical blocking or chemical absorption, failing to repair photoaging issues already caused by UV rays, such as collagen breakage, DNA damage, and barrier damage. Furthermore, most chemical sunscreens are highly irritating, easily deactivated under sunlight, and can increase skin burden with long-term use. Antioxidant and anti-aging products, such as the anti-glycation anti-aging composition disclosed in Chinese patent application (CN111329808A), while achieving antioxidant and anti-glycation effects through the combination of vitamins and plant extracts, only alleviate oxidative stress afterward, failing to block UV damage at its source and thus failing to provide both protection and repair. In addition, they generally suffer from low activity of plant extracts, lack of synergistic effects when combined with collagen and peptides, poor physicochemical and light stability of the composition, and difficulty in industrial-scale mass production. Summary of the Invention

[0004] To address the aforementioned issues, this invention provides a composition that combines UV protection and photodamage repair, enabling simultaneous full-spectrum UV protection, immediate free radical scavenging, inflammatory response suppression, photoinduced collagen breakage repair, and barrier function reconstruction. It also exhibits excellent storage and light stability, better meeting the needs of practical applications.

[0005] This invention provides a composition that combines UV protection and photodamage repair, comprising the following components by weight: 0.5-10 parts of rosemary extract hydrolyzed by lipase, 0.3-8 parts of scutellaria baicalensis extract fermented by Bifidobacterium, 0.2-6 parts of green tea extract hydrolyzed by compound enzyme, 0.4-9 parts of ganoderma lucidum extract fermented by yeast, 0.1-5 parts of recombinant type I humanized collagen, 0.01-2 parts of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.01-2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 3-30 parts of moisturizing matrix, 1-10 parts of emulsification system, 0.15-1.5 parts of thickening system, 3-18 parts of skin moisturizing system, 0.32-1.2 parts of functional additives, and 40-85 parts of deionized water.

[0006] In one embodiment, the composition combining UV protection and photodamage repair comprises, by weight, the following components: 1-6 parts of lipase-directed hydrolysis of rosemary extract, 0.8-4 parts of Bifidobacterium-fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract, 0.5-3 parts of compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, 1-5 parts of yeast-deep-fermented Ganoderma lucidum extract, 0.5-2 parts of recombinant type I humanized collagen, 0.1-0.6 parts of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.1-0.4 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 3-30 parts of moisturizing matrix, 1-10 parts of emulsification system, 0.15-1.5 parts of thickening system, 3-18 parts of skin-moisturizing system, 0.32-1.2 parts of functional additives, and 40-85 parts of deionized water.

[0007] Existing anti-photoaging products often target only a single stage of the photoaging process (such as UV blocking or post-oxidation), failing to effectively address both full-spectrum UV protection and deep repair of photodamage, let alone achieve a comprehensive anti-photoaging effect encompassing protection, repair, and regeneration. This application utilizes four plant-based active ingredients: lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract, bifidobacteria-fermented scutellaria baicalensis extract, compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, and yeast-deep-fermented ganoderma lucidum extract. Combined with recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper, and acetyl hexapeptide-8, it forms a full-spectrum UV protective film on the skin surface, rapidly eliminating UV-induced free radicals, inhibiting acute inflammatory responses, and immediately alleviating UV-induced erythema, stinging, and redness. It also repairs photodamaged skin barriers and broken collagen fibers in the dermis, improving skin firmness, reducing wrinkles, sagging, dullness, and age spots caused by photoaging, while simultaneously repairing cellular DNA damage and rebuilding the dermal support structure, thus reversing the photoaging process at its root. The rationale behind this invention is likely as follows: Four plant extracts modified by targeted enzymatic hydrolysis / fermentation collectively construct a complete protective system encompassing full-band UV interception, immediate free radical scavenging, and sustained inhibition of chronic inflammation. This system blocks UV damage to the skin at its source, providing a healthy skin microenvironment for collagen regeneration and tissue repair, and preventing continuous collagen degradation caused by oxidative stress and chronic inflammation. Recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper, and acetyl hexapeptide-8 work together to comprehensively repair UV-induced photodamage from the epidermal barrier to the dermis, directly replenishing photodegraded collagen, promoting fibroblast proliferation and endogenous collagen synthesis, rebuilding the reticular support structure of the dermis, and simultaneously repairing cellular DNA damage. Through the precise formulation and synergistic effects of each ingredient, a comprehensive, end-to-end effect is achieved, encompassing UV protection, anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, barrier repair, collagen regeneration, and photoaging reversal.

[0008] In one embodiment, the rosemary extract is prepared by lipase-directed hydrolysis of dried rosemary leaves, followed by lipase-directed hydrolysis and purification with AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin, wherein the lipase-directed hydrolyzed rosemary extract contains ≥12% oxalic acid.

[0009] In one embodiment, the Bifidobacterium-fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract is prepared by using Scutellaria baicalensis root as raw material, followed by anaerobic deep fermentation with Bifidobacterium and concentration via an 800-1000 Da nanofiltration membrane. The baicalein content in the Bifidobacterium-fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract is ≥18%. In one embodiment, the compound enzymatically hydrolyzed green tea extract is prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea leaves with a compound enzyme consisting of cellulase, pectinase, and tanninase in a mass ratio of 1-4:0.5-2:0.1-1, followed by purification with polyamide resin. The content of epigallocatechin gallate in the compound enzymatically hydrolyzed green tea extract is ≥45%. In one embodiment, the yeast-fermented Ganoderma lucidum extract is prepared by deep fermentation of Ganoderma lucidum fruiting bodies with aeration and ethanol precipitation using Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The yeast-fermented Ganoderma lucidum extract contains ≥60% low molecular weight Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides with a molecular weight of 5000-20000 Da.

[0010] In one embodiment, the moisturizing matrix comprises at least two of glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, or panthenol.

[0011] In one embodiment, the emulsification system comprises at least two of cetearyl oleate, sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 stearate, or glyceryl stearate.

[0012] In one embodiment, the thickening system is at least one of carbomer, xanthan gum, or hydroxyethyl cellulose.

[0013] In one embodiment, the emollient system is at least two of squalane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, jojoba seed oil, or petrolatum.

[0014] In one embodiment, the functional additive includes a chelating agent and a preservative, wherein the mass ratio of the chelating agent to the preservative is 0.02-0.2:0.3-1.0.

[0015] In one embodiment, the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA, and the preservative comprises at least one of phenoxyethanol or p-hydroxyacetophenone.

[0016] In one embodiment, the method for preparing the rosemary extract by lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis includes the following steps: pulverizing dried rosemary leaves and passing them through a 50-60 mesh sieve to obtain rosemary powder; adding 15-20 times the weight of the rosemary powder in deionized water; heating to 45-50°C; adding lipase; and stirring at a constant temperature for 4-5 hours for enzymatic hydrolysis; heating to 95-100°C to inactivate the enzyme for 10-15 minutes; centrifuging to collect the supernatant; purifying the supernatant using AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin; eluting with 60-70 v / v% ethanol; concentrating the eluent under reduced pressure until no alcohol odor is detected; and freeze-drying to obtain the final product.

[0017] In one embodiment, the amount of lipase added is 0.8-1% of the mass of rosemary powder, and the enzyme activity of the lipase is 80,000-100,000 U / g.

[0018] In one embodiment, the method for preparing the rosemary extract by lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis includes the following steps: pulverizing dried rosemary leaves and passing them through a 60-mesh sieve to obtain rosemary powder; adding 15 times the weight of the rosemary powder to deionized water; heating to 45°C; adding lipase with an enzyme activity of 100,000 U / g and accounting for 0.8% of the rosemary powder weight; and stirring at a constant temperature for 4.5 hours to hydrolyze the extract; heating to 95°C to inactivate the enzyme for 15 minutes; centrifuging at 4000 r / min for 20 minutes to collect the supernatant; purifying the supernatant using AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin; eluting with 70 v / v% ethanol; concentrating the eluent under reduced pressure until no alcohol odor is detected; and freeze-drying at -40°C to obtain the final product.

[0019] In one embodiment, the preparation method of the Bifidobacterium fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract includes the following steps: Scutellaria baicalensis root is pulverized and passed through a 50-60 mesh sieve to obtain Scutellaria baicalensis powder; 12-15 times the weight of the Scutellaria baicalensis powder is added to deionized water to obtain a mixed solution; the mixture is autoclaved, cooled to 35-39°C, inoculated with Bifidobacterium seed liquid, and subjected to constant temperature anaerobic deep fermentation for 55-65 hours; the temperature is raised to 95-100°C for enzyme inactivation and sterilization for 10-15 minutes; the supernatant is collected by centrifugation; the supernatant is concentrated through a nanofiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 800-1000 Da, and then freeze-dried to obtain the final product.

[0020] In one embodiment, the OD600 of the Bifidobacterium seed solution is 1.0-1.2, and the inoculation amount is 3%-5% of the mass of the mixture.

[0021] In one embodiment, the preparation method of the Bifidobacterium fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract includes the following steps: Scutellaria baicalensis root is pulverized and passed through a 60-mesh sieve to obtain Scutellaria baicalensis powder; 12 times the mass of the Scutellaria baicalensis powder is added to deionized water to obtain a mixed solution; sterilization is performed at 121°C for 20 min; cooling is performed to 37°C; Bifidobacterium seed liquid accounting for 4% of the mass of the mixed solution and having an OD600=1.2 is inoculated; and anaerobic deep fermentation is performed at 37°C for 60 h; the temperature is raised to 95°C for enzyme inactivation and sterilization for 15 min; centrifugation is performed at 4000 r / min for 20 min to obtain the supernatant; the supernatant is concentrated by nanofiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 1000 Da; and freeze-dried at -40°C to obtain the final product.

[0022] In one embodiment, the preparation method of the compound enzymatic hydrolysis green tea extract includes the following steps: green tea leaves are pulverized and passed through a 70-80 mesh sieve to obtain green tea powder; 15-20 times the weight of the green tea powder is added to deionized water; the temperature is raised to 45-55℃; a compound enzyme composed of cellulase, pectinase, and tanninase in a mass ratio of 1-4:0.5-2:0.1-1 is added and the mixture is kept at a constant temperature and stirred for 5-6 hours for enzymatic hydrolysis; the temperature is raised to 95-100℃ to inactivate the enzyme for 10-15 minutes; the supernatant is collected by centrifugation; the supernatant is purified by polyamide resin and eluted with 45-55 v / v% ethanol; the eluent is concentrated under reduced pressure until there is no alcohol odor; and the extract is freeze-dried to obtain the final product.

[0023] In one embodiment, the complex enzyme is composed of cellulase, pectinase, and tanninase in a mass ratio of 2:1:0.5. The amount of complex enzyme added is 0.8%-1.2% of the mass of green tea powder, and the enzyme activities of cellulase, pectinase, and tanninase are all 80,000-100,000 U / g.

[0024] In one embodiment, the preparation method of the compound enzymatic hydrolysis green tea extract includes the following steps: green tea leaves are pulverized and passed through an 80-mesh sieve to obtain green tea powder; deionized water with a mass ratio of 15 times that of the green tea powder is added; the temperature is raised to 50°C; a compound enzyme consisting of cellulase, pectinase, and tanninase in a mass ratio of 2:1:0.5 (the enzyme activities of cellulase, pectinase, and tanninase are all 100,000 U / g) is added, and the mixture is kept at a constant temperature and stirred for 5.5 h for enzymatic hydrolysis; the enzyme is inactivated by heating to 95°C for 15 min; the supernatant is collected by centrifugation at 4000 r / min for 20 min; the supernatant is purified by polyamide resin, eluted with 50 v / v% ethanol, the eluent is concentrated under reduced pressure until no alcohol odor is detected, and then freeze-dried at -40°C to obtain the final product.

[0025] In one embodiment, the method for preparing the yeast deep fermentation Ganoderma lucidum extract includes the following steps: pulverizing Ganoderma lucidum fruiting bodies through a 50-60 mesh sieve to obtain Ganoderma lucidum powder; adding 15-20 times the weight of the Ganoderma lucidum powder to deionized water to obtain a Ganoderma lucidum mixture; sterilizing under high pressure; cooling to 28-32℃; inoculating with Saccharomyces cerevisiae seed liquid; and deep fermenting at a constant temperature and with aeration for 80-88 hours; sterilizing at 95-100℃ for 10-15 minutes; centrifuging to obtain the supernatant; adding 2-3 times the volume of 90-95 v / v% ethanol solution to the supernatant for alcohol precipitation for 20-24 hours; filtering; reconstituted and concentrated the precipitate; and freeze-drying to obtain the extract.

[0026] In one embodiment, the OD600 of the brewer's yeast seed liquid is 1.2-1.5, the inoculum amount is 4%-6% of the mass of the Ganoderma lucidum mixture, and the aeration rate during fermentation is 0.8-1.2 vvm.

[0027] In one embodiment, the preparation method of the yeast deep fermentation Ganoderma lucidum extract includes the following steps: Ganoderma lucidum fruiting bodies are crushed and passed through a 60-mesh sieve to obtain Ganoderma lucidum powder; 15 times the mass of Ganoderma lucidum powder is added to deionized water to obtain Ganoderma lucidum mixture; sterilization is performed at 121℃ for 20 min; cooling is performed to 30℃; 5% of the mass of the obtained Ganoderma lucidum mixture and OD600=1.5 of Saccharomyces cerevisiae seed liquid are inoculated; deep fermentation is performed at 30℃ and aeration rate of 1.0 vvm for 84 h; sterilization is performed at 95℃ for 15 min; centrifugation is performed at 4000 r / min for 20 min; supernatant is collected; 3 times the volume of 95 v / v% ethanol solution is added to the supernatant for alcohol precipitation for 24 h; the precipitate is filtered, dissolved in water and concentrated; and freeze-dried at -40℃ to obtain the extract.

[0028] This invention uses a coupled technology of targeted enzymatic hydrolysis and microbial fermentation to prepare plant active extracts, which significantly improves the extraction rate, retention rate and transdermal absorption efficiency of active ingredients, while reducing impurity content and product irritation, thus combining high efficacy and high safety.

[0029] In one embodiment, the dosage form of the composition is one of serum, lotion, cream, gel, and sunscreen.

[0030] Another aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, comprising the following steps: A composition combining UV protection and photodamage repair was prepared by homogenizing and emulsifying lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract, bifidobacteria-fermented scutellaria baicalensis extract, compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, yeast-fermented ganoderma lucidum extract, recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper, acetyl hexapeptide-8, moisturizing matrix, emulsification system, thickening system, skin-moisturizing system, functional additives, and deionized water.

[0031] In one embodiment, the method for preparing the composition that combines UV protection and photodamage repair includes the following steps: Add deionized water, moisturizing matrix, and disodium EDTA to the aqueous phase pot, stir and heat to 75-85℃, homogenize at 3000-3500r / min for 3-5min, and sterilize at this temperature for 20-30min to obtain the aqueous phase. Add the emulsification system and the moisturizing system to the oil phase pot, stir and heat to 75-85℃, stir until completely dissolved, keep warm and sterilize for 20-30 minutes to obtain the oil phase; The oil phase is drawn into the aqueous phase pot, and homogenized at 3000-3500 r / min for 5-10 min under the condition of keeping at 75-85℃, and then stirred and emulsified at 20-35 r / min for 30-40 min to obtain the emulsified base material. Stir and cool the emulsified base material to 40-45℃, add it to the thickening system, neutralize it with triethanolamine to a pH of 5.5-6.5, and stir until homogeneous; Continue cooling to 35-38℃, then sequentially add lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract, bifidobacteria-fermented scutellaria baicalensis extract, compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, yeast-deep fermented ganoderma lucidum extract, recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper, acetyl hexapeptide-8, and phenoxyethanol. Stir at 15-25 r / min until homogeneous, vacuum degas for 15-25 min, and cool to 20-30℃ to obtain the composition that combines UV protection and photodamage repair.

[0032] In one embodiment, the method for preparing the composition that combines UV protection and photodamage repair includes the following steps: Deionized water, moisturizing matrix, and disodium EDTA were added to the aqueous phase pot, stirred and heated to 82°C, homogenized at 3500 r / min for 4 min, and sterilized at this temperature for 30 min to obtain the aqueous phase. Add the emulsification system and the moisturizing system to the oil phase pot, stir and heat to 82°C, stir until completely dissolved, keep warm and sterilize for 30 minutes to obtain the oil phase; The oil phase was drawn into the aqueous phase pot, and homogenized at 3500 r / min for 8 min under the condition of keeping at 82℃, and then stirred and emulsified at 25 r / min for 40 min to obtain the emulsified base material. The emulsified base material was stirred and cooled to 43°C, then added to the thickening system. The system was neutralized with triethanolamine to a pH of 5.8 and stirred until homogeneous. Continue cooling to 36℃, then sequentially add lipase-directed hydrolysis of rosemary extract, bifidobacteria-fermented scutellaria baicalensis extract, compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, yeast-deep fermented ganoderma lucidum extract, recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper, acetyl hexapeptide-8, and phenoxyethanol. Stir at 15 r / min until homogeneous, vacuum degas for 25 min, and cool to 20-30℃ to obtain the composition that combines UV protection and photodamage repair.

[0033] The scientific compounding of the components of the composition of the present invention, through the selection and combination of each raw material, not only significantly improves the comprehensive efficacy of ultraviolet protection, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, and photodamage repair, but also has excellent heat resistance, cold resistance, centrifugal stability, and light resistance, making it suitable for long-term storage and large-scale industrial production.

[0034] The composition of the present invention has a simple preparation process and mild conditions, which can retain the bioactivity of the active ingredients to the greatest extent. It can be widely used in various cosmetic dosage forms such as serums, lotions, creams, gels, and sunscreens, and has broad market application prospects.

[0035] Beneficial effects 1. This invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, which can simultaneously achieve full-band ultraviolet protection, immediate free radical scavenging, inflammatory response inhibition, photoinduced collagen breakage repair, and barrier function reconstruction. It also has excellent storage stability and light stability, better meeting the needs of practical applications.

[0036] 2. This application utilizes four plant-based active ingredients: rosemary extract (directed hydrolysis with lipase), scutellaria baicalensis extract (fermented with bifidobacteria), green tea extract (hydrolyzed with compound enzymes), and ganoderma lucidum extract (deeply fermented with yeast). Combined with recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper, and acetyl hexapeptide-8, it can form a full-spectrum UV protection film on the skin surface, quickly eliminate UV-induced free radicals, inhibit acute inflammatory responses, and immediately relieve erythema, stinging, and redness caused by UV rays. It can also repair the skin barrier and dermal collagen fiber breakage defects caused by photodamage, improve skin firmness, and improve wrinkles, sagging, dullness, and pigmentation caused by photoaging. At the same time, it repairs cellular DNA damage, rebuilds the dermal support structure, and reverses the photoaging process from the root.

[0037] 3. This invention uses a coupled technology of directional enzymatic hydrolysis and microbial fermentation to prepare plant active extracts, which significantly improves the extraction rate, retention rate and transdermal absorption efficiency of active ingredients, while reducing impurity content and product irritation, thus combining high efficacy and high safety.

[0038] 4. The scientific compounding of the components of the composition of the present invention, through the selection and combination of each raw material, not only greatly improves the comprehensive effects of ultraviolet protection, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation and photodamage repair, but also has excellent heat resistance, cold resistance, centrifugal stability and light stability, making it suitable for long-term storage and large-scale industrial production.

[0039] 5. The composition of the present invention has a simple preparation process and mild conditions, which can retain the bioactivity of the active ingredients to the greatest extent. It can be widely used in various cosmetic dosage forms such as serums, lotions, creams, gels, and sunscreens, and has broad market application prospects. Detailed Implementation

[0040] Example 1 Embodiment 1 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, comprising the following components by weight: Lipase-directed hydrolysis of rosemary extract (3 parts), Bifidobacterium-fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract (2 parts), compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract (1.5 parts), yeast deep fermentation of Ganoderma lucidum extract (2.5 parts), recombinant type I humanized collagen (Wuhan Kemike Biomedical Technology Co., Ltd.) (1 part), tripeptide-1 copper (0.3 parts), acetyl hexapeptide-8 (0.2 parts), moisturizing matrix (glycerin (8 parts), propylene glycol (5 parts), sodium hyaluronate (0.2 parts)) (13.2 parts), thickening system (carbomer) 0.2 parts of Shandong Xinxiong Biotechnology Co., Ltd., 0.1 parts of xanthan gum (0.3 parts of Hubei Xinyuhong Biomedical Technology Co., Ltd.), 2.5 parts of emulsification system (1.5 parts of cetearyl oleate, 1 part of sorbitan oleate), 7 parts of moisturizing system (3 parts of squalane, 4 parts of caprylic / capric triglycerides), 0.55 parts of functional additives (0.5 parts of phenoxyethanol, 0.05 parts of disodium EDTA), and 65.95 parts of deionized water.

[0041] The method for preparing the rosemary extract by lipase-directed hydrolysis includes the following steps: Rosemary powder is obtained by pulverizing dried rosemary leaves and passing them through a 60-mesh sieve; deionized water at 15 times the weight of the rosemary powder is added; the temperature is raised to 45°C; lipase with an activity of 100,000 U / g and a weight of 0.8% of the rosemary powder is added; the mixture is stirred at a constant temperature for 4.5 hours for enzymatic hydrolysis; the enzyme is inactivated at 95°C for 15 minutes; the mixture is centrifuged at 4000 r / min for 20 minutes to obtain the supernatant; the supernatant is purified by AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin, eluted with 70 v / v% ethanol, and the eluent is concentrated under reduced pressure until no alcohol odor is detected; the extract is then freeze-dried at -40°C to obtain the rosemary extract. The content of oxalic acid in the rosemary extract by lipase-directed hydrolysis is 12.6%.

[0042] The preparation method of the Bifidobacterium fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract includes the following steps: Scutellaria baicalensis root is pulverized and passed through a 60-mesh sieve to obtain Scutellaria baicalensis powder; 12 times the mass of the Scutellaria baicalensis powder is added to deionized water to obtain a mixed solution; sterilization is performed at 121℃ for 20 min; cooling is performed to 37℃; Bifidobacterium seed liquid accounting for 4% of the mass of the mixed solution and having an OD600=1.2 is inoculated; and anaerobic deep fermentation is performed at 37℃ for 60 h; the temperature is raised to 95℃ for enzyme inactivation and sterilization for 15 min; centrifugation is performed at 4000 r / min for 20 min to obtain the supernatant; the supernatant is concentrated by nanofiltration membrane with a molecular weight cutoff of 1000 Da; and freeze-dried at -40℃ to obtain the extract. The content of baicalein in the Bifidobacterium fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract is 18.9%.

[0043] The preparation method of the compound enzymatic hydrolyzed green tea extract includes the following steps: green tea leaves are pulverized and passed through an 80-mesh sieve to obtain green tea powder; deionized water with a mass ratio of 15 times that of the green tea powder is added; the temperature is raised to 50°C; a compound enzyme consisting of cellulase, pectinase, and tanninase in a mass ratio of 2:1:0.5 (the enzyme activities of cellulase, pectinase, and tanninase are all 100,000 U / g) is added, and the mixture is kept at a constant temperature and stirred for 5.5 h for enzymatic hydrolysis; the enzyme is inactivated by heating to 95°C for 15 min; the supernatant is collected by centrifugation at 4000 r / min for 20 min; the supernatant is purified by polyamide resin, eluted with 50 v / v% ethanol, the eluent is concentrated under reduced pressure until no alcohol odor is detected, and then freeze-dried at -40°C to obtain the final product. The EGCG content in the compound enzymatic hydrolyzed green tea extract is 46.2%.

[0044] The preparation method of the yeast deep fermentation Ganoderma lucidum extract includes the following steps: Ganoderma lucidum fruiting bodies are crushed and passed through a 60-mesh sieve to obtain Ganoderma lucidum powder. Deionized water with a mass of 15 times that of the Ganoderma lucidum powder is added to obtain a Ganoderma lucidum mixture. The mixture is sterilized at 121℃ for 20 min, cooled to 30℃, and inoculated with 5% (by mass of the obtained Ganoderma lucidum mixture) of Saccharomyces cerevisiae seed liquid with OD600=1.5 (Saccharomyces cerevisiae (CICC®1386) is inoculated in YPD liquid medium (Shanghai Aladdin Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd.) and cultured at 28℃ for 24 h). The mixture is then fermented at 30℃ with constant temperature and aeration at 1.0 vvm for 84 h. The mixture is then heated to 95℃ for sterilization for 15 min, centrifuged at 4000 r / min for 20 min, and the supernatant is collected. Three volumes of 95 v / v% ethanol solution are added to the supernatant for alcohol precipitation for 24 h. The precipitate is filtered, dissolved in water, concentrated, and freeze-dried at -40℃ to obtain the final product. The yeast-fermented Ganoderma lucidum extract contained 62.3% low molecular weight Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides (5000-20000 Da).

[0045] Example 1 of the present invention provides a method for preparing a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, comprising the following steps: Deionized water, moisturizing matrix, and disodium EDTA were added to the aqueous phase pot, stirred and heated to 82°C, homogenized at 3500 r / min for 4 min, and sterilized at this temperature for 30 min to obtain the aqueous phase. Add the emulsification system and the moisturizing system to the oil phase pot, stir and heat to 82°C, stir until completely dissolved, keep warm and sterilize for 30 minutes to obtain the oil phase; The oil phase was drawn into the aqueous phase pot, and homogenized at 3500 r / min for 8 min under the condition of keeping at 82℃, and then stirred and emulsified at 25 r / min for 40 min to obtain the emulsified base material. The emulsified base material was stirred and cooled to 43°C, then added to the thickening system. The system was neutralized with triethanolamine to a pH of 5.8 and stirred until homogeneous. Continue cooling to 36℃, then sequentially add lipase-directed hydrolysis of rosemary extract, bifidobacteria-fermented scutellaria baicalensis extract, compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, yeast-deep fermented ganoderma lucidum extract, recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper, acetyl hexapeptide-8, and phenoxyethanol. Stir at 15 r / min until homogeneous, vacuum degas for 25 min, and cool to 20-30℃ to obtain the composition that combines UV protection and photodamage repair.

[0046] Example 2 Example 2 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and a method for preparing the same composition. The specific implementation is the same as in Example 1, except that the composition, by weight, comprises the following components: The following ingredients were selected: 6 parts of rosemary extract hydrolyzed by lipase, 4 parts of scutellaria baicalensis extract fermented by bifidobacteria, 3 parts of green tea extract hydrolyzed by compound enzymes, 5 parts of ganoderma lucidum extract fermented by yeast, 2 parts of recombinant type I humanized collagen, 0.6 parts of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.4 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 12 parts of glycerin, 8 parts of propylene glycol, 0.5 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5 parts of carbomer, 0.2 parts of xanthan gum, 3 parts of cetearyl oleate, 2 parts of sorbitan oleate, 6 parts of squalane, 8 parts of caprylic / capric triglyceride, 0.8 parts of phenoxyethanol, 0.1 parts of disodium EDTA, and 37.9 parts of deionized water.

[0047] Example 3 This invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation is the same as in Example 1, except that the composition combining ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair comprises the following components by weight: The following ingredients were prepared: 1 part of rosemary extract hydrolyzed by lipase, 0.8 parts of scutellaria baicalensis extract fermented by bifidobacteria, 0.5 parts of green tea extract hydrolyzed by compound enzymes, 1 part of ganoderma lucidum extract fermented by yeast, 0.5 parts of recombinant type I humanized collagen, 0.1 parts of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.1 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 5 parts of glycerin, 3 parts of propylene glycol, 0.1 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.15 parts of carbomer, 0.05 parts of xanthan gum, 1 part of cetearyl oleate, 0.5 parts of sorbitan oleate, 2 parts of squalane, 3 parts of caprylic / capric triglyceride, 0.4 parts of phenoxyethanol, 0.03 parts of disodium EDTA, and 80.87 parts of deionized water.

[0048] Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 1 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that the lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract is replaced with commercially available rosemary extract (Lanzhou Waterles Biotechnology Co., Ltd.).

[0049] Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 2 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that the lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract is replaced with commercially available Scutellaria baicalensis extract (Lanzhou Waterles Biotechnology Co., Ltd.).

[0050] Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 3 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that the lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract is replaced with commercially available green tea extract (Lanzhou Waterles Biotechnology Co., Ltd.).

[0051] Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 4 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that the lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract is replaced with commercially available Ganoderma lucidum extract (Lanzhou Waterles Biotechnology Co., Ltd.).

[0052] Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 5 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that the 3 parts of lipase-directed hydrolysis of rosemary extract are replaced with 3 parts of deionized water (the rosemary extract is not hydrolyzed by lipase, and the mass is made up with an equal part of deionized water).

[0053] Comparative Example 6 Comparative Example 6 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that the 2 parts of Bifidobacterium fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract are replaced with 2 parts of deionized water (without adding Bifidobacterium fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract, and making up the difference with an equal mass of deionized water).

[0054] Comparative Example 7 Comparative Example 7 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that 1 part of recombinant type I humanized collagen is replaced with 1 part of deionized water (recombinant type I humanized collagen is not added, and the mass is made up with an equal part of deionized water).

[0055] Comparative Example 8 Comparative Example 8 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that 0.3 parts of tripeptide-1 copper and 0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8 are replaced with 0.5 parts of deionized water (tripeptide-1 copper and acetyl hexapeptide-8 are not added, and the mass is made up with an equal part of deionized water).

[0056] Comparative Example 9 Comparative Example 9 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that the lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract, bifidobacteria-fermented scutellaria extract, compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, and yeast-deep fermented Ganoderma lucidum extract are all replaced with equal parts by weight of commercially available rosemary extract, scutellaria extract, green tea extract, and Ganoderma lucidum extract.

[0057] Comparative Example 10 Comparative Example 10 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper and acetyl hexapeptide-8 are not added, and the composition is made up with an equal mass of deionized water.

[0058] Comparative Example 11 Comparative Example 11 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that recombinant type I humanized collagen is replaced with an equal mass of recombinant type III humanized collagen (Hubei Langbowan Biomedical Co., Ltd.).

[0059] Comparative Example 12 Comparative Example 12 of the present invention provides a composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, and its preparation method. The specific implementation method is the same as that of Example 1, except that the rosemary extract is replaced by an equal mass of commercially available chamomile extract (Lanzhou Waterles Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) with lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0060] Performance testing 1. The physicochemical stability of the products provided in each example and comparative example was tested. All tests were performed in triplicate, and the average value of the results was taken. The test results are shown in Table 1-3.

[0061] (1) Heat resistance stability test: The sample to be tested was placed in a sealed glass bottle and placed in a constant temperature incubator at 48℃ for 3 months. Samples were taken at 1 month, 2 months and 3 months. After returning to room temperature, the appearance changes were observed. The pH value change was detected by a pH meter. The total retention rate of the core active ingredients (saurus oxalic acid, baicalin, EGCG and Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide) in the sample was detected by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The test results are shown in Table 1.

[0062] Table 1

[0063] (2) Cold resistance stability test: The sample to be tested was placed in a sealed glass bottle and placed in a -15℃ low temperature freezer for 3 months. Samples were taken at 1 month, 2 months and 3 months respectively. After being restored to room temperature (25℃), the appearance changes were observed, the pH value changes and the total retention rate of the core active ingredients were detected. The test results are shown in Table 2.

[0064] Table 2

[0065] (3) Light stability test: The sample to be tested was placed in a transparent sealed glass bottle and placed in an ultraviolet light test chamber with a UVB intensity of 0.75 mW / cm². 2 UVA intensity 7.5 mW / cm 2 The samples were continuously irradiated for 30 days, and samples were taken on days 10, 20 and 30 to observe changes in appearance, detect changes in pH value and the total retention rate of core active ingredients. The test results are shown in Table 3.

[0066] Table 3

[0067] Analysis of the data in Tables 1-3 shows that: under the conditions of heat resistance at 48℃ for 3 months, cold resistance at -15℃ for 3 months, and continuous ultraviolet irradiation for 30 days, Examples 1-3 can maintain a uniform and delicate appearance, without any abnormal phenomena such as layering, discoloration, precipitation, or demulsification, pH fluctuation range ≤0.2, and the total retention rate of core active ingredients is ≥87.5%.

[0068] In Comparative Examples 1-4, after replacing the directional enzymatic hydrolysis / fermentation extract of the present invention with commercially available extracts, the retention rate of active ingredients under high temperature and light conditions decreased significantly. In particular, the green tea extract of Comparative Example 3 showed an EGCG retention rate of only 51.3% after 30 days of light exposure, and obvious yellowing and browning occurred. This proves that the extraction process of the present invention not only improves the activity of the extract, but also enhances the stability of the product.

[0069] In Comparative Example 9, after all plant extracts were replaced with commercially available extracts, severe appearance abnormalities and loss of active ingredients were observed under heat, cold, and light conditions. After 30 days of light exposure, the total retention rate of active ingredients was only 32.8%, further demonstrating that the four extracts of this invention work together to maintain the high stability of the composition.

[0070] Comparative Examples 7 and 10, which did not contain recombinant collagen and peptides, only showed slight thinning and no serious stability issues, demonstrating that the stability of the composition is mainly due to the synergistic effect between the plant extracts. At the same time, the addition of collagen and peptides can further optimize the consistency and stability of the system.

[0071] 2. Various efficacy and performance tests were conducted on the products provided in each example and comparative example. All tests were performed in triplicate, and the average value of the results was taken. The test results are shown in Table 4-7.

[0072] (1) UV protection performance test: Referring to "Determination of SPF value of cosmetics: In vitro method" and "Method for labeling the UVA protection effect of cosmetics", the SPF value (sun protection index) and PFA value (UVA protection factor) of the sample to be tested were determined by ultraviolet spectrophotometer method, and the PA level was determined according to the PFA value. The test results are shown in Table 4.

[0073] Table 4

[0074] (2) Antioxidant performance test DPPH free radical scavenging rate determination: Accurately weigh 20 mg DPPH, dissolve it in anhydrous ethanol, and dilute to a volume of 250 mL in a brown volumetric flask to obtain a concentration of 2 × 10⁻⁶. -4 2 mL of DPPH solution (1 mg / mL) was added to 2 mL of the sample solution to be tested. After shaking well, the solution was allowed to stand at room temperature in the dark for 30 min. The absorbance A1 was measured at a wavelength of 517 nm. At the same time, the absorbance A2 of 2 mL of sample solution + 2 mL of anhydrous ethanol and the absorbance A0 of 2 mL of DPPH solution + 2 mL of anhydrous ethanol were measured. The test results are shown in Table 5.

[0075] Calculation formula: DPPH free radical scavenging rate (%) = [1-(A1-A2) / A0]×100%.

[0076] ABTS free radical scavenging rate determination: An equal volume of 7 mmol / L ABTS solution was mixed with 2.45 mmol / L potassium persulfate solution and allowed to stand at room temperature in the dark for 12 h to obtain an ABTS free radical stock solution. This stock solution was diluted with phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) at pH 7.4 until the absorbance at 734 nm was 0.70 ± 0.02, yielding the ABTS working solution. 0.2 mL of the sample solution (1 mg / mL) was added to 3.8 mL of the ABTS working solution, shaken well, and allowed to stand at room temperature in the dark for 6 min. The absorbance A1 was measured at 734 nm. Simultaneously, the absorbance A2 of 0.2 mL of sample solution + 3.8 mL of PBS and the absorbance A0 of 0.2 mL of PBS + 3.8 mL of ABTS working solution were measured. The test results are shown in Table 5.

[0077] Calculation formula: ABTS free radical scavenging rate (%) = [1-(A1-A2) / A0]×100%.

[0078] Table 5

[0079] (3) Detection of photodamage repair performance (cellular level) Cell Culture and Model Construction: Human skin fibroblasts (HFF-1) were cultured in DMEM medium containing 10 wt% fetal bovine serum at 37°C in a 5% CO2 incubator. Cells in the logarithmic growth phase were seeded into 96-well plates. After 24 h of culture, the medium was discarded, and the cells were washed twice with PBS. 100 μL of PBS was added to each well, and the cells were incubated with UVA at 20 J / cm². 2 +UVB 200mJ / cm 2 A photodamaged cell model was constructed by irradiating cells with ultraviolet light at a given dose; the normal control group was not irradiated with ultraviolet light.

[0080] Sample processing and detection: After irradiation, PBS was discarded. The normal control group and model group were added to DMEM medium containing 10 wt% fetal bovine serum, while the drug-treated groups were added to DMEM medium containing 10 wt% of the test sample (final sample concentration 100 μg / mL). Each group had 6 replicates, and cultured for another 24 h. Cell viability was determined using the CCK-8 assay, and the secretion of type I collagen in the cell supernatant was measured using a human type I collagen ELISA kit to characterize collagen repair capacity. The test results are shown in Table 6.

[0081] Table 6

[0082] (4) Anti-inflammatory performance test: RAW264.7 macrophage model was used. Cells were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured for 24 h. Then, culture medium containing 1 μg / mL LPS was added to induce inflammation. At the same time, the test sample (final concentration 100 μg / mL) was added. After culturing for another 24 h, the supernatant was taken and the contents of inflammatory factors IL-6 and TNF-α were measured using an ELISA kit. The inflammatory factor inhibition rate was calculated. The test results are shown in Table 7.

[0083] Table 7

[0084] Analysis of the data in Table 4-7 shows that: Examples 1-3 exhibit excellent overall efficacy, with Example 2 showing the highest addition of active ingredients and the best overall efficacy: SPF value reached 45.7 and PFA value reached 17.3, achieving broad-spectrum and highly efficient UV protection; DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging rates were both ≥97%, demonstrating extremely strong antioxidant capacity; the survival rate of UV-damaged cells increased to 95.3%, and the secretion of type I collagen reached 92.6 μg / L, far exceeding the model group, exhibiting extremely strong photodamage repair and collagen regeneration capabilities; IL-6 and TNF-α inhibition rates were both ≥91%, demonstrating excellent anti-inflammatory effects.

[0085] In Comparative Examples 1-4, after replacing the targeted enzymatic hydrolysis / fermentation extract with commercially available extracts, the UV protection, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and repair properties all showed a significant decrease, proving that the extraction process of the present invention can greatly enhance the bioactivity and efficacy of plant extracts. In Comparative Example 9, after replacing all plant extracts with commercially available extracts, all the effects were close to those of the model group, but the UV protection and photodamage repair capabilities were almost lost, further proving that the four specific plant extracts work together to ensure the efficacy of the product.

[0086] Comparative Examples 5-6, lacking the core plant extracts, showed a significant decrease in UV protection and antioxidant properties. In Comparative Examples 7-8 and 10, the removal of recombinant collagen and peptides significantly reduced cell viability and type I collagen secretion. In Comparative Example 11, replacing recombinant type I collagen with type III collagen resulted in significantly lower photodamage repair and collagen secretion capabilities compared to Example 1. In Comparative Example 12, replacing rosemary extract with chamomile extract significantly reduced UV protection and antioxidant properties. These findings demonstrate that the components of this invention work together to ensure the overall efficacy of the product.

Claims

1. A composition that combines ultraviolet protection and photodamage repair, characterized in that, By weight, it includes the following components: 0.5-10 parts of rosemary extract hydrolyzed by lipase, 0.3-8 parts of scutellaria baicalensis extract fermented by bifidobacteria, 0.2-6 parts of green tea extract hydrolyzed by compound enzymes, 0.4-9 parts of ganoderma lucidum extract fermented by yeast, 0.1-5 parts of recombinant type I humanized collagen, 0.01-2 parts of tripeptide-1 copper, 0.01-2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide-8, 3-30 parts of moisturizing matrix, 1-10 parts of emulsification system, 0.15-1.5 parts of thickening system, 3-18 parts of skin moisturizing system, 0.32-1.2 parts of functional additives, and 40-85 parts of deionized water.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The rosemary extract hydrolyzed by lipase is prepared by lipase-directed hydrolysis and purification by AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin using dried rosemary leaves as raw material. The lipase-directed hydrolyzed rosemary extract contains ≥12% oxalic acid.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The Bifidobacterium-fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract is prepared by using Scutellaria baicalensis root as raw material, through anaerobic deep fermentation with Bifidobacterium and concentration by 800-1000 Da nanofiltration membrane, and the content of baicalin in the Bifidobacterium-fermented Scutellaria baicalensis extract is ≥18%.

4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The compound enzymatically hydrolyzed green tea extract is prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea leaves with a compound enzyme consisting of cellulase, pectinase and tanninase in a mass ratio of 1-4:0.5-2:0.1-1 and purification with polyamide resin. The content of epigallocatechin gallate in the compound enzymatically hydrolyzed green tea extract is ≥45%.

5. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yeast-fermented Ganoderma lucidum extract is prepared by deep fermentation of Ganoderma lucidum fruiting bodies with aeration and ethanol precipitation using Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The yeast-fermented Ganoderma lucidum extract contains ≥60% low molecular weight Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides with a molecular weight of 5000-20000 Da.

6. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The moisturizing matrix includes at least two of glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, or panthenol.

7. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The emulsification system includes at least two of cetearyl oleate, sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 stearate, or glyceryl stearate.

8. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The thickening system is at least one of carbomer, xanthan gum, or hydroxyethyl cellulose.

9. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The moisturizing system is at least two of the following: squalane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, jojoba seed oil, or petrolatum.

10. A method for preparing the composition according to any one of claims 1-9, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: A composition combining UV protection and photodamage repair was prepared by homogenizing and emulsifying lipase-directed enzymatic hydrolysis of rosemary extract, bifidobacteria-fermented scutellaria baicalensis extract, compound enzymatic hydrolysis of green tea extract, yeast-fermented ganoderma lucidum extract, recombinant type I humanized collagen, tripeptide-1 copper, acetyl hexapeptide-8, moisturizing matrix, emulsification system, thickening system, skin-moisturizing system, functional additives, and deionized water.

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