A method for making a garment with a fly that resists lifting

Abstract

The application discloses a garment manufacturing method for preventing a front placket from being reversed, belonging to the field of garments, and comprises the following steps: unfolding the abdominal area of a front piece downwards, increasing the underarm allowance or the belly allowance, transferring the allowance to the abdomen, shortening the back waist section and the back length of a back piece, and reducing the lining at the lower part of the lining and the waistband to form an inner buckle of the waistband; shaping the unfolded abdominal area by a pulling process, and fixing the front placket with a thread; when the waistband is combined with the front piece and the lower hem of the front piece, the waistband is tightened to make the inside and outside even, the inner buckle of the front placket is formed, and the thread is used for fixing; when the waistband is fixed with the front piece, the waistband is folded inwards, fixed, and then the edge is pried to keep the inside and outside even in the horizontal direction; the shortened part of the back piece is treated by the pulling process; and each part of the garment is ironed and shaped. The garment manufacturing method combines pattern design and manufacturing processes, significantly improves the fit of the front placket, enhances the adaptability of the convex belly body shape, and is stable in structure and controllable in process.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of garment manufacturing technology, and in particular to a garment manufacturing method for preventing the placket from curling up. Background Technology

[0002] When wearing open-front garments such as overcoats, suits, jackets, and trench coats, the lower part of the front placket is prone to curling up, meaning the hem of the front placket turns outwards and fails to fit naturally against the wearer's abdomen, severely affecting the overall appearance of the garment and the wearer's image and temperament. This curling problem is particularly pronounced on wearers with protruding bellies—due to the presence of the protruding abdomen, the front of the garment cannot fully accommodate the abdominal volume, causing the lower part of the front placket to be pushed up and curl outwards. Additionally, the front placket may also exhibit a "lifting" phenomenon, where the hem is pulled upwards, further exacerbating the uneven appearance.

[0003] In existing technologies, common methods to solve the problem of front placket curling include increasing the allowance of the front bodice circumference and adjusting the front placket shaping process. However, these methods have the following shortcomings: First, simply increasing the circumference allowance will cause the garment to become loose overall, destroying its fit and aesthetic lines; second, relying solely on the shaping process lacks a systematic coordination with the pattern structure, resulting in unstable effects and difficulty in adapting to the differences in the characteristics of different fabrics; third, existing solutions are not particularly targeted at protruding belly figures and cannot effectively solve the problem of front-to-back imbalance caused by a protruding abdomen, and the front placket curling phenomenon still exists.

[0004] Therefore, how to systematically solve the problem of the front placket curling up so that it can meet the wearing needs of people with protruding bellies and also have good process stability is a technical problem that urgently needs to be solved by those skilled in the art. Summary of the Invention

[0005] This application provides a method for manufacturing clothing with a placket that prevents it from curling up, solving the problem that the lower part of the front placket of front-opening clothing tends to curl up in the prior art, and achieving a natural wrapping of the abdomen by the front placket, resulting in a neat and tidy appearance.

[0006] This application provides a method for manufacturing clothing with a placket that prevents it from curling up, including the following steps: S1. Pattern Optimization: The front piece is expanded downwards in the abdominal area, the armpit darts or belly darts are enlarged and the dart amount is transferred to the abdomen, the back waist section and back length of the back piece are shortened, and the lining is reduced at the junction of the lower part of the lining and the outer fabric to form an inner fold of the outer fabric. S2. Abdominal shaping: The abdominal unfolded area in S1 is shaped by shaping process, and the front placket is fixed with woven tack strips to ensure that the abdominal protrusion does not return to its original shape during subsequent sewing and use. S3. Fixing the face strip: When combining the face with the front piece and the lower hem of the front piece, tighten the face to form a uniform inside and outside, so that the lower hem of the front placket is tucked inward and fixed with the strip to prevent it from springing back. S4. Inward buttoning of the facing: When fixing the facing to the front piece, fold the facing inward, fix it, and then pry the edge to keep the horizontal inside and outside even, so that the facing does not turn outward and maintain the inward buttoning effect of the front placket. S5. Back panel straightening treatment: The shortened back panel in S1 is straightened to ensure that the back is flat and without excess fabric, and to avoid undue pulling on the front placket. S6. Ironing and shaping: Iron and shape all parts of the garment after completing the above steps to ensure the overall structure is stable and the front placket hangs down naturally and fits snugly.

[0007] The beneficial effects of the above embodiments are as follows: This garment manufacturing method, through multi-dimensional pattern adjustments such as front and mid-abdomen expansion, underarm or belly dart transfer, and back shortening, allows the lower part of the front placket to naturally wrap around the abdomen, eliminating the upward curling phenomenon and resulting in a neat and tidy appearance; through techniques such as shaping, securing with tie strips, and inner buttoning, the stability of the front placket pattern structure is ensured. This garment manufacturing method, through the combination of pattern design and manufacturing process, significantly improves the fit of the front placket, enhances the adaptability to protruding belly figures, and provides structural stability and controllable processes, making it suitable for industrial mass production.

[0008] Based on the above embodiments, this application can be further improved as follows: In one embodiment of this application, the unfolding amount of the abdominal area of ​​the front piece in S1 is 0.8-1.5 cm. This unfolding amount is set in stages according to the fabric's stretching properties and the degree of abdominal protrusion of the wearer, in order to adapt to different fabric characteristics and body shape requirements, ensuring the front placket fits well while avoiding fabric wrinkles caused by excessive unfolding.

[0009] In one embodiment of this application, in step S1, when the underarm dart is enlarged, the angle of the enlarged underarm dart is 14.5-16°, and the enlarged dart amount is transferred to the abdominal area through a subsequent shaping process; when the belly dart is enlarged, the angle of the enlarged belly dart is 4.5-6°, and the enlarged dart amount is transferred to the abdominal area through a subsequent shaping process. The dart tip of the transferred underarm or belly dart points to the highest point of the abdominal protrusion, so that the dart amount can accurately supplement the three-dimensional shape of the abdomen. The transfer of the underarm dart and the optimization of the front abdominal expansion work together to form a continuous three-dimensional wrapping curved surface in the abdominal area of ​​the front placket, avoiding the stiff or unnatural shape caused by a single structure.

[0010] In one embodiment of this application, the reduction in the back waist and back length of the back piece in S1 is 0.5-1.0 cm. This reduction is determined according to the degree of the wearer's protruding abdomen; the more pronounced the protrusion, the greater the reduction, in order to match the front and back body balance requirements of a protruding body type and eliminate the phenomenon of the front placket lifting up and the amount of fabric bunching up under the back collar.

[0011] In one embodiment of this application, the reduction in the lining material described in S1 is 1.5-2.0 cm, and the reduction begins 7-8 cm below the abdomen. This allows the front placket hem to naturally gather inward, preventing it from turning outward.

[0012] In one embodiment of this application, the shaping process in S2 uses a steam iron at a temperature of 130-150°C. Within this temperature range, the fabric fibers are fully softened and shaped to maintain a stable amount of expansion in the front and middle abdomen. The woven pull strip is fixed along the edge of the front placket to provide longitudinal support for the front placket and prevent the abdominal bulge from shrinking back during wear.

[0013] In one embodiment of this application, the depth of the inward fold of the face sheet in S4 is 0.3-0.5 cm. This depth matches the amount of lining material removed from the inward-fastening structure of the face sheet in S1. The greater the amount of lining material removed, the greater the depth of the inward fold of the face sheet, so that the horizontal uniformity of the face sheet and the front piece and the vertical inward-fastening structure work together to form a three-dimensional inward-fastening constraint. Attached Figure Description

[0014] To more clearly illustrate the specific embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the accompanying drawings used in the description of the specific embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. In all the drawings, similar elements or parts are generally identified by similar reference numerals. The elements or parts in the drawings are not necessarily drawn to scale.

[0015] Figure 1 This is a flowchart illustrating the steps of a garment manufacturing method for preventing the placket from curling up, as described in Embodiment 1 of this application. Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the front panel pattern in Embodiment 1 of this application; Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the rear panel pattern in Embodiment 1 of this application; Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the noodle pattern in Embodiment 1 of this application; Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the lining pattern in Embodiment 1 of this application; Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the front piece fixed with a spindle strip in Embodiment 1 of this application; Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram of the noodle fixing strip in Embodiment 1 of this application; Figure 8 This is a picture of the actual garment front placket after ironing; Figure 9 This is a schematic diagram of the front panel pattern in Embodiment 2 of this application.

[0016] Among them, 1. front piece; 11. abdominal area; 12. armpit dart; 13. woven twill; 14. belly dart; 2. back piece; 21. back waist section; 22. back; 3. hanging fabric; 31. twill; 4. lining. Detailed Implementation

[0017] The present invention will be further illustrated below with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these embodiments are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. After reading the present invention, any modifications of the present invention in various equivalent forms by those skilled in the art will fall within the scope defined by the appended claims.

[0018] It should be noted that similar labels and letters in the following figures indicate similar items. Therefore, once an item is defined in one figure, it does not need to be further defined and explained in subsequent figures.

[0019] In the description of this invention, it should be noted that the indicated orientation or positional relationship is based on the orientation or positional relationship shown in the accompanying drawings, or the orientation or positional relationship in which the product of the invention is usually placed when in use. It is only for the convenience of describing the invention and simplifying the description, and is not intended to indicate or imply that the device or element referred to must have a specific orientation, or be constructed and operated in a specific orientation. Therefore, it should not be construed as a limitation of the invention.

[0020] Example 1: like Figure 1 As shown, a method for manufacturing a garment with a placket that prevents it from curling up is applied to front-opening garments with underarm darts. The method includes the following steps: S1. Pattern Optimization: such as Figure 2-5 As shown, the specific optimization measures include the following four: (1) Front and Mid-Abdomen Expansion: In the abdominal area 11 of the front panel 1, expand downwards approximately 0.8-1.5cm along the edge of the front placket to create a bulge, meeting the needs of the protruding abdomen and allowing the lower part of the front placket to fit naturally. This expansion step involves stretching the front placket downwards (after stretching, the placket will be in an outward arc shape; after ironing at high temperature on the abdomen, it will straighten). After straightening, there will be a bulge at the abdomen to meet the curves of the human body. This expansion amount is determined based on the stretching properties of the selected fabric. For woolen fabrics with good stretching properties, the expansion amount can be appropriately reduced because the fabric can be further stretched during the stretching process; for synthetic fiber fabrics with poor stretching properties, the expansion amount should be appropriately increased to ensure the final shaping effect.

[0021] (2) Underarm Dart Transfer: The underarm dart 12 is enlarged (the conventional underarm dart is generally around 10°), resulting in an angle of 14.5-16°. The enlarged dart is then transferred to the abdominal area through subsequent shaping processes to enhance the three-dimensional shape of the abdomen and further improve the fit of the front placket. The tip of the transferred underarm dart points towards the highest point of the abdominal protrusion, ensuring that the dart accurately complements the three-dimensional shape of the abdomen. The underarm dart transfer, in conjunction with the front and mid-abdomen expansion optimization, works synergistically to create a continuous three-dimensional wrapping surface in the abdominal area of ​​the front placket, avoiding a stiff or unnatural shape caused by a single structure.

[0022] (3) Back shortening: Shorten the back waist section 21 and back section 22 of the back piece 2 by 0.5-1.0cm each. The amount of shortening of the back waist section and back section is determined according to the wearer's body shape. For a body shape with a noticeable protruding belly, the shortening amount can be set to 0.8-1.0cm; for a body shape with a moderate protrusion of the abdomen, the shortening amount can be set to 0.5-0.8cm. After shortening the back, the length ratio of the front and back of the garment is restored to balance, and the front placket is no longer pulled upwards due to the excessive length of the back, thus alleviating the drooping phenomenon. At the same time, the bunching caused by the excessive length of the back under the neckline also disappears, and the overall back is smoother.

[0023] (4) Inward buttoning of the facing: The facing 3 is located inside the placket. At the junction of the lower part of the facing and the lining 4, the lining is shortened by 1.5-2.0cm, and the inward buttoning structure is formed starting from 7.0-8.0cm below the abdomen. Figure 5 The dotted line indicates the original lining pattern, with the reduced area forming a triangle. The amount of lining reduction can be adjusted within the range of 1.5-2.0cm; the greater the reduction, the more pronounced the inward buttoning effect. The inward buttoning structure causes the front placket hem to naturally gather inward, working in conjunction with the aforementioned structures to ensure the front placket remains smooth and straight.

[0024] S2. Abdominal shaping and fixation: The amount of unfolded fabric in step S1 is shaped using a shaping process. Specifically, a steam iron is used to shape the unfolded area of ​​the front and middle abdomen. The steam iron temperature is controlled at approximately 140℃, with an adjustment range between 130-150℃. Figure 6 As shown, after tidying up, iron the woven drawstring strip 13 inwards along the clean line of the placket to secure it. The width of the woven drawstring strip is 1.0-1.5cm, and the length is the full length of the front placket. Figure 6 The shadow in the mid-abdomen area represents the raised, three-dimensional volume. The woven webbing will be covered by the facing later and will not be visible. Its function is twofold: firstly, to provide longitudinal support for the front placket and prevent the abdominal bulge from shrinking back during wearing; secondly, to maintain the stability of the front placket edge during subsequent sewing and avoid deformation.

[0025] S3. Fixing the noodle tie strip: When joining the facing to the front piece and the hem of the front piece, tighten the facing to create an even fit inside and out. Specifically, during the sewing process, gently pull the facing longitudinally by hand to create a 0.3-0.5cm even fit between the facing and the front piece. After tightening, secure the facing to the front piece with a tension strip to prevent springback. Figure 7 As shown, the fixed position of the tie strip 31 is located at the lower part of the splice between the hanging panel and the front placket and at the splice between the hanging panel and the hem of the front panel.

[0026] S4. Inner button seam of the noodle: When securing the facing to the front panel, fold the facing inwards by 0.3-0.5cm, secure it with a specialized machine, and then pry the edge. Specifically, first fold the edge of the facing inwards by 0.3-0.5cm, matching the fold depth to the shortening of the lining material in step S1. After folding, use a specialized machine to secure and sew along the folded edge, ensuring a stable fold shape. Then, pry the edge to secure the facing to the front panel in the horizontal dimension. This step further strengthens the inward fastening constraint in the horizontal dimension, forming a three-dimensional constraint system with step S3 to ensure the facing does not turn outwards and maintains the inward fastening effect of the front placket.

[0027] S5. Rear body retraction treatment: The shortened back section from step S1 is then reshaped. Specifically, a steam iron is used to reshape the shortened areas at the back waist and back, allowing the shortened back fabric to naturally shrink and eliminate excess fabric due to the shortened pattern. After this reshaping process, the back of the garment is smooth and flat, without excess fabric accumulation, preventing any undesirable stretching of the front placket due to unevenness.

[0028] S6. Ironing and shaping: After completing the above steps, iron and shape all parts of the garment to ensure structural stability and a natural, close-fitting front placket. Specifically, use a steam iron to iron key areas such as the front placket, abdomen, back, and shoulders, controlling the temperature at 140-150℃.

[0029] like Figure 8 As shown, after ironing, the pattern of each part of the garment is fixed in its final form, with the front placket hanging down naturally and fitting snugly, without curling or drooping.

[0030] Example 2: A method for manufacturing garments with anti-roll-up plackets, applicable to front-opening garments with belly darts. This method is basically the same as in Example 1, except for a substitution in step S1.(2). In this Example 2, step S1.(2) is as follows: Belly province transfer: such as Figure 9As shown, the belly dart 14 is enlarged (a typical belly dart is around 2.6°), resulting in an angle of 4.5-6°. This enlarged dart is then transferred to the abdominal area through a subsequent shaping process, enhancing the three-dimensional shape of the abdomen and further improving the fit of the front placket. The tip of the transferred belly dart points towards the highest point of the abdominal protrusion, ensuring the dart precisely complements the three-dimensional shape of the abdomen. The transfer of the belly dart, combined with the optimization of the front abdominal expansion, works synergistically to create a continuous, three-dimensional, wrapping surface in the abdominal area of ​​the front placket, avoiding the stiffness or unnaturalness caused by a single structure.

[0031] The technical solutions described in the embodiments of this application have at least the following technical effects or advantages: 1. Significantly improved front placket fit: Through multi-dimensional pattern adjustments such as front and middle abdominal expansion, underarm or belly dart transfer, and back shortening, the lower part of the front placket naturally wraps around the abdomen, eliminating the curling phenomenon and resulting in a neat and tidy appearance. 2. Highly adaptable to protruding belly body type: The pattern parameters are specially optimized for protruding belly body type, solving the problems of front placket lifting and back excess, improving wearing comfort and appearance; 3. Strong fabric adaptability: The front placket unfolding amount is set in stages according to the pulling properties of different fabrics to ensure stable process results; 4. Stable structure and controllable process: Through processes such as shaping, fixing with tie rods, and inner fastening of the facing, the front placket pattern structure is ensured to be stable and suitable for industrial mass production; 5. Wide range of applications: Applicable to front-opening garments such as overcoats, suits, jackets, and trench coats, it has high versatility and promotional value.

[0032] Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described above, it is understood that the above embodiments are exemplary and should not be construed as limiting the present invention. Those skilled in the art can make changes, modifications, substitutions and variations to the above embodiments within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing a garment with a placket that prevents it from curling up, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1: Expand downwards in the abdominal area of ​​the front piece, increase the armpit dart or belly dart and transfer the dart amount to the abdomen, shorten the back waist section and back length of the back piece, and reduce the lining material at the junction of the lower part of the lining material and the outer fabric to form an inner fold of the outer fabric. S2: The abdominal expansion area in S1 is shaped by a shaping process and the front placket is fixed with woven tufts; S3: When combining the face sheet with the front piece and the bottom hem of the front piece, tighten the face sheet to form an even inside and outside, make the bottom hem of the front placket tuck inward, and fix it with a tie strip; S4: When fixing the hanging surface to the front piece by prying the edge, fold the hanging surface inward, fix it, and then pry the edge to keep it even in the horizontal direction. S5: Perform a pulling and straightening treatment on the shortened portion of the rear piece in S1; S6: Iron and shape all parts of the garment.

2. The garment manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: The unfolding amount of the abdominal region of the front piece described in S1 is 0.8-1.5cm.

3. The garment manufacturing method according to claim 2, characterized in that: In S1, when the axillary dart is enlarged, the angle of the enlarged axillary dart is 14.5-16°, and the enlarged dart amount is transferred to the abdominal area through a retraction process; when the belly dart is enlarged, the angle of the enlarged belly dart is 4.5-6°, and the enlarged dart amount is transferred to the abdominal area through a retraction process.

4. The garment manufacturing method according to claim 3, characterized in that: The reduction in the back waist and back length of the back piece described in S1 is 0.5-1.0 cm.

5. The garment manufacturing method according to claim 3, characterized in that: The reduction in the lining material described in S1 is 1.5-2.0 cm, and the reduction begins 7-8 cm below the abdomen.

6. The garment manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: The sizing process described in S2 uses a steam iron at a temperature of 130-150℃.

7. The garment manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: The depth of the inward fold of the noodles described in S4 is 0.3-0.5cm.

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