Topical skin improvement composition

Abstract

The present invention provides a topical skin care composition comprising 0.0001% to 5% by weight of a PPAR activator; 0.01% to 40% by weight of a starch-containing complex carbohydrate; and a cosmetically acceptable mediator selected from water, oil, polymer-thickened water or emulsions, and siloxane systems, wherein the PPAR activator is 10-hydroxystearic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid or a combination thereof; and wherein the starch in the composition is in a natural and ungelatinized form.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to cosmetic compositions designed to improve skin appearance and health. The invention pertains to the field of cosmetic compositions that provide skin with benefits such as even skin tone, radiance, clarity, and barrier function. More particularly, this invention relates to such compositions containing complex carbohydrates (including starch) and PPAR activators. Background Technology

[0002] Skin degenerates due to skin conditions, environmental damage (wind, air conditioning, central heating), or through the normal aging process (chronoaging), which can be accelerated by sun exposure (photoaging). In recent years, the demand for cosmetic compositions and beauty methods to improve the appearance and condition of the skin has increased significantly.

[0003] Many people are concerned about their skin quality and appearance and want to work on it. Dermatologists also want to ensure that skincare products support the skin and help improve its quality. Essentially, products should care for the skin and work back on it.

[0004] Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) is a transcription factor that controls lipid metabolism. Three isoforms exist: PPARα, PPARβ / δ, and PPARγ, all located in the skin, according to Riviers et al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 111, 1116-1121 (1998). A series of specific fatty acids activate these factors, resulting in anti-inflammatory effects that reduce skin irritation and normalize skin metabolism by promoting differentiation / anti-proliferation, thus providing additional skin care benefits. In US-A-5981586, Pershad Singh taught that PPAR ligands can reduce proliferation and inflammation in the skin. In PCT application WO-A-98 / 32444, Elias et al. taught that PPAR ligands can restore / prevent skin barrier dysfunction. In EP-A-888773, Malnoe et al. described the use of PPAR-activated lipid phellandrene in the treatment and prevention of inflammation in superficial tissues. Furthermore, in PCT application WO-A-99 / 47110, Alaluf et al. taught the use of petropicrin or its glycerides in reducing skin irritation in skin treatments aimed at simultaneously combating aging and wrinkles, and also provided skin-whitening properties. In EP-A-709084, Laugier et al. described the use of coriander oil rich in petropicrin in skin cosmetic compositions for moisturizing dry skin. In US-A-5260053, Chappell et al. described a deodorant formulation specifically containing coriander oil that achieves odor reduction and masks any residual androsterone compounds by reducing the populations of both micrococci and diphtheria-like bacteria.

[0005] WO2018113636 (Unilever) discloses a combination of modified GSH module amino acid mixtures containing cystine, glutamic acid and glycine with PPAR-activated fatty acids, which achieves a synergistic increase in skin whitening, thereby offsetting the disadvantage of low solubility of cystine.

[0006] WO2001008653 (Unilever) discloses a topical composition comprising: (a) a first lipid selected from phellandic acid and / or docosahexaenoic acid and / or derivatives thereof; (b) a second lipid being an activator of the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor alpha subtype and / or derivatives thereof and / or mixtures thereof; and (c) a skin-acceptable mordant; provided that the first and second lipids are not the same lipids. This composition can be used as a cosmetic anti-aging skin cream and skin lotion.

[0007] WO12110276 (Unilever) discloses a leave-on, non-solid oil continuous skin conditioning composition containing 12-hydroxystearic acid. The composition contains 12HSA but still has a relatively low viscosity, making it suitable for spreading on the skin, and is stable during storage and structurally reversible through temperature cycling.

[0008] WO24002647 relates to a detergent composition with a stable composition. This detergent composition comprises a mixture of a biodegradable thickener and an unsaturated zwitterionic surfactant. The detergent composition has a stable viscosity and, surprisingly, exhibits no shrinkage, discoloration, or odor even after storage at high temperatures.

[0009] Hydroxystearic acid has been known in the cosmetics industry for some time. However, complex carbohydrates such as starch have been used as part of the structuring system in soap bars, but no specific benefits have been reported, and they are mainly used as fillers.

[0010] Most people consider skin health and appearance to be one of the key indicators of their own beauty and well-being. This is influenced by factors such as age, hormonal changes, the occurrence of acne, and exposure to sunlight and pollution.

[0011] Therefore, there is always a need for a composition that can improve the appearance of the skin, and it is highly desirable for consumers to include skin-beneficial agents in consumer products that are already part of their daily routine and do not require any additional skin care steps.

[0012] Therefore, topical skin compositions that meet the immediate need for skin improvement require an affordable timeframe and work to enhance the skin with continued use. Summary of the Invention

[0013] According to a first aspect, the present invention discloses a topical skin composition comprising: i. 0.0001% to 5% by weight of PPAR activator; ii. 0.01% to 40% by weight of starchy complex carbohydrates; and Cosmetic-acceptable mediators are selected from water, oil, water or emulsions (oil-in-water or water-in-oil) thickened with polymers, and siloxane systems.

[0014] A second aspect of the invention provides the use of PPAR activator and starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to the first aspect for providing luster to the skin compared to a topical skin composition not containing PPAR activator and starch-containing complex carbohydrate.

[0015] A third aspect of the invention provides the use of PPAR activator and starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to the first aspect for providing an even skin tone compared to a topical skin composition not containing PPAR activator and starch-containing complex carbohydrate.

[0016] A fourth aspect of the invention provides the use of PPAR activators and starch-containing complex carbohydrates in a topical skin composition according to the first aspect for providing skin clarity compared to a topical skin composition not containing PPAR activators and starch-containing complex carbohydrates.

[0017] The fifth aspect of the invention provides the use of PPAR activator and starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to the first aspect for lightening skin spots compared with a topical skin composition not containing PPAR activator and starch-containing complex carbohydrate.

[0018] These and other aspects, features, and advantages will become apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed description and appended claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the invention may be used in any other aspect of the invention.

[0019] The term "comprising" does not imply limitation to any element subsequently stated, but rather includes unspecified elements of primary or secondary functional importance. In other words, the listed steps, elements, or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the terms "comprising" or "having" are used, these terms mean equivalent to "comprising" as defined above. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. It should be noted that the examples given in the following description are intended to illustrate the invention and not to limit the invention to those examples alone. Similarly, unless otherwise stated, all percentages are by weight / weight percentage.

[0020] Except as expressly stated in the operational and comparative examples or elsewhere, all figures in this specification and claims indicating the amount or reaction conditions of the material, the physical properties of the material, and / or the use thereof should be understood to be modified by the word “about”.

[0021] Numerical ranges expressed in the format "x to y" are understood to include both x and y. When multiple preferred ranges for a particular feature are described in the format "x to y", it is understood that combinations of all ranges with different endpoints can also be considered.

[0022] It should be noted that when specifying any concentration or amount range, any particular upper limit concentration can be associated with any particular lower limit concentration or amount.

[0023] To gain a more complete understanding of the above and other features and advantages of the present invention, reference should be made to the following detailed description of preferred embodiments. Detailed Implementation

[0024] This invention relates to skin compositions suitable for topical application to the human body (e.g., skin and hair). More particularly, it relates to compositions that provide improved skin benefits.

[0025] PPAR activators have been known in the cosmetics industry for some time. However, starch-containing complex carbohydrates have been used as part of structuring systems in soap compositions, but no specific benefits have been reported; they are primarily used as fillers.

[0026] The inventors were surprised to discover that the compositions produce beneficial skin properties when the ingredients function in a given weight percentage range. The level of efficacy for skin benefits obtained from the combination of these ingredients (as measured by relevant methods) is higher than that obtained from any one of them alone, and in fact, the benefits of starch-containing complex carbohydrates for these benefits were previously unknown. When evaluating the skin benefits of the combination of PPAR activators and starch-containing complex carbohydrates, such as radiance, skin clarity, and even skin tone, the results of the compositions of the present invention show synergistic beneficial effects. The compositions of the present invention have also been found to be gentle, mild, smooth, and soft.

[0027] The topical compositions of this invention are intended for personal care or cosmetic purposes and may also be referred to as personal care compositions or cosmetic compositions. As used herein, "personal care composition" is intended to include compositions for topical application (i.e., the external surface of human skin and / or hair). Such compositions can be classified as leave-on or wash-off and include any product applied to the human body for the purpose of improving appearance, cleansing, controlling odor, or general aesthetics. The compositions are preferably leave-on. The compositions of this invention can be in the form of liquids, lotions, creams, foams, sticks, serums, essences, or gels. Non-limiting examples of such compositions include leave-on gels, lotions, serums, essences, or creams, preferably in the form of serums or essences. Serums are generally considered to be high-concentration / potent leave-on products containing active ingredients / skin-beneficial ingredients. On the other hand, essences are water-based compositions containing active ingredients that hydrate and protect the skin. Both forms are intended to promote the absorption of active ingredients and allow them to penetrate deeply into the skin layers.

[0028] As used in this article, “skin” is intended to include the skin on the face and body (e.g., neck, chest, back, arms, armpits, hands, legs, and scalp), especially the skin on exposed areas.

[0029] Topical skin composition The present invention provides a topical skin composition comprising: 0.0001% to 5% by weight of a PPAR activator; 0.01% to 40% by weight of a starch-containing complex carbohydrate; and a cosmetically acceptable carrier selected from water, oil, polymer-thickened water or emulsions (oil-in-water or water-in-oil) and siloxane systems.

[0030] The compositions of the present invention provide improved benefits to the skin, such as radiance, skin clarity and even skin tone, and are gentler and leave the skin feeling soft after use.

[0031] PPAR activator Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) is a transcription factor that controls lipid metabolism. There are three isoforms: PPARα, PPARβ / δ, and PPARγ, all located in the skin.

[0032] The preferred PPAR activators are PPAR fatty acids such as cis-parinaric acid, cis-9-trans-11 conjugated linoleic acid, columbinic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, hexadecanetrienoic acid, trans-linolenic acid (an isomer of linolenic acid), phellandrene, pinolenic acid, terpineic acid, pomegranate acid, ricinoleic acid, trans-ricinoleic acid (an isomer of ricinoleic acid), octadecanoic acid, trans-10-cis-12 conjugated linoleic acid, 7-trans-octadecanoic acid, and trans-isooleic acid.

[0033] Potential sources of hydrolyzable PPAR precursors include triglycerides such as coriander seed oil for apigenic acid, balsam seed oil, parinarium laurinarium kernel oil, or sabastiana brasilinensis seed oil for cis-perilla acid, dehydrated castor seed oil for conjugated linoleic acid, and columbine (aquilegia vulgaris) oil for gulombinic acid.

[0034] Ideally, PPAR acids contain 16 or 18 carbon atoms. Most preferred PPAR acids are olefinically unsaturated, and particularly preferred are monounsaturated, diunsaturated, or triunsaturated. Many of the most desirable PPAR-activating acids are not only unsaturated but also C16 or C18 acids. Optional PPAR acids (xvii) include 12-hydroxystearic acid, sometimes abbreviated as 12-HSA, which is effective for the purposes of this invention at concentrations below those required to form gelling agents.

[0035] Compared to the same composition lacking PPAR ligands, the proportion of fatty acid PPAR ligands in this invention is at least the minimum proportion that exhibits reduced irritation and / or improved skin condition. As anticipated, such a minimum proportion varies not only with the compound but also depends on whether the acid is used in free form or introduced via its precursor. The minimum proportion can be determined by the patch testing method described later herein.

[0036] Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs) are a family of nuclear hormone receptors known to have three subtypes: α, β, and γ, with different tissue distributions. The α subtype of PPARs (hereinafter referred to as PPARα) is present in the skin. Preferred PPAR activators for use in the compositions of the present invention are lipid activators of the α subtype of PPARs.

[0037] The terms “activator of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α subtype” or “PPARα activator” in this application refer to lipids that activate the nuclear receptor PPARα.

[0038] Examples of lipid PPARα activators that meet the requirements of the reporter gene assay (Kliewer et al., (1992) Nature, 358, 771-774) include C10-C18 saturated fatty acids, which are preferably branched, or if straight-chain, preferably derivatized (e.g. with hydroxyl groups), C10-C20 monounsaturated fatty acids, and C10-C22 polyunsaturated fatty acids.

[0039] Fatty acids can be straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and can be substituted, for example, hydroxylated, such as α-hydroxy or β-hydroxy derivatives. The corresponding alcohols, triglycerides, and phospholipids of any of these acids are also suitable for this invention. Preferred derivatives include those derived from acids with carboxyl substitutions, such as esters (e.g., triglycerides, monoglycerides, diglycerides, phosphate esters), amides (e.g., ceramide derivatives), and salts (e.g., alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts). In the case of triglyceride derivatives, all isomers at all positions on the glycerol backbone are included.

[0040] Therefore, oils rich in fatty acid triglycerides are also suitable for this invention. Such oils are commercially available and include coriander seed oil (rich in apigenin), parsley seed oil (rich in apigenin), evening primrose oil (rich in gamma-linolenic acid), borage seed oil (rich in gamma-linolenic acid), shea butter (rich in oleic acid and linoleic acid), fish oil and its concentrates (rich in DHA and EPA), crab oil (rich in erucic acid), flaxseed oil (rich in alpha-linolenic acid), almond oil (rich in oleic acid), and cottonseed oil (rich in linoleic acid).

[0041] Preferred PPARα activators according to the present invention are 10-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, cis-perilla acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis-5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid, cis-4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid, conjugated linoleic acid (C9,T11), gulombinic acid, trans-linolenic acid, trans-ricinolenic acid, octadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxystearic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11,14-eicosadienoic acid, conjugated linoleic acid (T10,C12), conjugated linoleic acid (T9,T11), conjugated linoleic acid (a 50:50 mixture of C9,T11 and T10,C12), coriander acid, trans-linoleic acid, and monopenetroselinic acid. (acid), apigenin, ricinoleic acid, stearylene acid, arborvitae extract and trans isoleic acid.

[0042] Other suitable preferred PPARα activators include cis-11,14,17-eicosalicylic acid, cis-5-eicosalicylic acid, cis-8,11,14-eicosalicylic acid, hexadecanoic acid, palmitoleic acid, trans-petroselaidic acid, trans-trans-farnesol, cis-13,16-docosadienoic acid, cis-isooleic acid, cis-11-eicosalicylic acid, cis-13,16,19-docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecanoic acid, cis-15-octadecanoic acid, cis-7,10,13,16-docosatraenoic acid, transoleic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranilic acid, geraniylgeranilic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, and petroselinyl. (alcohol), phytic acid, pine nut oil acid, trans-13-octadecenoic acid, tridecyl salicylic acid (TDS).

[0043] Other suitable categories of PPARα activators include plant extracts such as chickpea extract (red clover phytoestrogens), chromolaena odorata extract, pomegranate saponifiable hydrolysate extract, buglossoides (octadecanoic acid plant extract), and zanthalene (extract from Sichuan pepper).

[0044] When combined with phellandic acid and / or DHA (or its derivatives) according to the present invention, the lipids are particularly preferred due to their excellent anti-aging effects. The lipids are selected from the group consisting of polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) (for DHA, only when the first lipid in the composition of the present invention is PA or its derivative), monounsaturated fatty acids such as phellandic acid (for PA, only when the first lipid in the composition of the present invention is DHA or its derivative), transoleic acid, oleic acid, erucic acid, and diacids such as hexadecanedioic acid.

[0045] It should also be understood that the PPARα activator present in the compositions according to the invention is ideally present in an "active" form; that is, it is not esterified. Therefore, although natural sources of materials such as oils have been mentioned above, the PPARα activator used in the compositions according to the invention is preferably not the original, esterified form of the activator, but a source of raw material rich in unesterified PPARα activator, or a source of raw material in which the esterified form is hydrolyzed to release fatty acids.

[0046] This invention includes a PPAR activator, more preferably a PPARα activator. Preferably, the PPAR activator is present in the composition of this invention in an amount of 0.0001% to 5% by weight of the topical skin composition, more preferably 0.001% to 4.5% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 0.008% to 4% by weight.

[0047] Hydroxystearic acid The most preferred PPAR activator of the present invention is hydroxystearic acid or a derivative thereof. Preferably, the topical skin composition of the present invention comprises hydroxystearic acid or a derivative thereof. Hydroxystearic acid is a C18 chain fatty acid having one or more OH groups present along a hydrocarbon chain. Typically, 12-HSA and 10-HSA are well known hydroxystearic acids. It is commonly used as an emollient in skin care products and is also a common soap ingredient due to its surfactant properties.

[0048] The present invention includes hydroxystearic acid, more preferably 12-hydroxystearic acid and 10-hydroxystearic acid, and most preferably 12-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, the amount of hydroxystearic acid present in the topical skin composition of the present invention is in the range of 0.0001% to 5% by weight of the topical skin composition, more preferably 0.001% to 4.5% by weight, and most preferably 0.008% to 4% by weight.

[0049] Complex carbohydrates The soap composition of the present invention comprises complex carbohydrates. There are two types of carbohydrates: simple and complex. Simple carbohydrates consist of one or two sugar molecules.

[0050] Complex carbohydrates include starch and fiber. Preferably, the complex carbohydrate is a polysaccharide, and most preferably it contains starch. Meanwhile, the polysaccharide has the general formula C2. x (H2O) y Where x and y are typically large numbers between 200 and 2500. When the repeating unit in the polymer backbone is a six-carbon monosaccharide, as is the case in general, the general formula simplifies to (C6H... 10 O5) n , where typically 40 ≤ n ≤ 3000.

[0051] Preferably, the range of starch carbohydrates in the soap composition is 1-45% by weight of the soap composition, more preferably 3-40% by weight, and most preferably 5-35% by weight.

[0052] Starch (a polymer of glucose) is preferably a polysaccharide used in plants as a storage medium for polysaccharides, existing in the form of amylose and amylopectin. In animals, a structurally similar glucose polymer is a more densely branched glycogen, sometimes referred to as "animal starch".

[0053] Preferably, the starch comprises at least 20% by weight of the complex carbohydrates, more preferably at least 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, or 70% by weight of the complex carbohydrates, more preferably at least 80% by weight, further preferably at least 85% by weight, and most preferably at least 90% by weight. In a highly preferred aspect, the starch comprises at least 95% by weight of the complex carbohydrates.

[0054] In another aspect of the invention, the complex carbohydrate is natural starch or modified starch. Most preferably, the starch is natural starch.

[0055] Suitable starch materials include natural starch (from corn, wheat, rice, potatoes, cassava, etc.), pregelatinized starch, various physically and chemically modified starches, and mixtures thereof. The term natural starch refers to starch that has not been chemically or physically modified—also known as native starch or unmodified starch.

[0056] Preferred starches are natural or native starches derived from corn, cassava, wheat, potato, rice, and other natural starch sources. Native starches with different ratios of amylose and amylopectin are available, for example, corn (25% amylose); waxy corn (0%); high amylose corn (70%); potato (23%); rice (16%); sago (27%); cassava (18%); wheat (30%); peas (35% amylose), etc. Native starches can be used directly or modified during the preparation of liquid personal care compositions to make the starch gelatinized. Preferably, the starch is unmodified, partially or non-gelatinized, or pregelatinized. Most preferably, ungelatinized or pregelatinized starch is used. Further preferred is the use of natural and unmodified starch.

[0057] Another suitable starch is pregelatinized starch, which is gelatinized before being added as a component of the liquid personal care composition of the present invention. Various forms of gelatinization at different temperatures are available, such as cold water-dispersible starch.

[0058] Gelatinized starch is the result of starch granules breaking down and dissolving in water when heated; this process is called starch gelatinization. Starch that has not undergone this treatment can be called "ungelatinized starch".

[0059] Preferably, the starch is in a suspended state in the liquid composition of the present invention; and most preferably, it is in a concentrated form in which it does not function as a thickener. Further preferably, the starch is used in an ungelatinized form. It is known in the art that ungelatinized starch does not function as a thickener.

[0060] Preferably, when the starch particle size is in the range of 2-70 μm, more preferably 4-50 μm, and most preferably 5-40 μm, the particle shape can be a smooth ellipse, oblate spheroid, or polygonal, preferably a smooth ellipse / sphere. Most preferably, natural starch with a particle size in the range of 2-70 μm, more preferably 4-50 μm, and most preferably 5-40 μm is used.

[0061] Acceptable carriers The compositions of the present invention comprise a cosmetically acceptable mediator selected from water, oil, polymer-thickened water or emulsions (oil-in-water or water-in-oil), and siloxane systems. The compositions can be delivered in the form of lotion, cream, serum, essence, or gel, wherein the serum, essence, or gel form is preferred. For this purpose, the compositions may comprise a cosmetically acceptable mediator. The cosmetically acceptable mediator is preferably selected from water (which may be polymer-thickened) or emulsions (which may be water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions). Products in cream or lotion form are typically emulsions.

[0062] The gel form of the product mainly contains 65 to 90% by weight of water, 60 to 90% by weight of serum, and 8% to 95% by weight of essence.

[0063] The compositions of the present invention may contain a humectant, which is typically a polyhydroxy alcohol. Preferably, the humectant is at least one selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, isopentanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerin, ethoxylated glycerin, and propoxylated glycerin. Preferred humectants are selected from one or more of glycerin, 1,3-butanediol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, and sorbitol. Glycerin is the most preferred humectant. Preferably, the amount of the humectant is 1 to 10% by weight of the composition, more preferably 2 to 8%.

[0064] The composition preferably comprises a skin-whitening compound. Illustrative substances are placental extracts, lactic acid, vitamin B3 compounds (preferably niacinamide), arbutin, kojic acid, ferulic acid, hydroquinone, resorcinol, and derivatives thereof, including 4-substituted resorcinols (e.g., hexylresorcinol or ethylresorcinol), hydroxystearic acid (HSA), preferably 12-HSA, pyridoxine hydrochloride, α-hydroxy acid (AHA), β-hydroxy acid (BHA), polyhydroxy acid (PHA), or natural skin-whitening extracts such as honey or lemon extract, and combinations thereof. More preferably, such skin-whitening compounds are selected from one or more of vitamin B3 compounds, resorcinols (e.g., ethylresorcinol or hexylresorcinol), pyridoxine hydrochloride, AHA, BHA, PHA, or natural skin-whitening extracts such as honey or lemon extract. Most preferably, the skin-whitening compound is selected from one or more of niacinamide, 4-substituted resorcinols (e.g., 4-ethylresorcinol or 4-hexylresorcinol), and 12-HSA. The amount of these skin-whitening compounds can be from 0.01 to 10% of the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2%.

[0065] The preferred form of the composition in solid form is a cream, which may be a foundation cream. The foundation cream contains 3 to 25% by weight of fatty acids. Optionally, the composition may contain 0.1 to 10% by weight of soap. When fatty acids are included, the fatty acids are preferably C10 to C22 fatty acids, more preferably C16 to C18 fatty acids. Most preferably, the fatty acids are stearic acid or palmitic acid or mixtures thereof, and the soap is preferably a potassium salt of the fatty acid mixture. The fatty acids are typically hystric acids, and are substantially (usually about 90 to 95%) 45% stearic acid and 55% palmitic acid.

[0066] Preferably, the composition comprises an emollient. Examples of emollients that can be used in leave-on compositions include stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, isopropyl isostearate, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl lauryl acid, hexyl lauryl acid, decyl oleate, octadecane-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oil (such as dimethyl polysiloxane), di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and isopropyl stearate. Propyl ester, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame oil, coconut oil, peanut oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohol, petrolatum, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Preferably, the composition comprises a solvent. Examples of solvents that can be used in the composition include ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Preferably, the composition comprises a powder. Examples of powders that can be used in the composition include chalk, talc, bleaching clay, kaolin, resin, colloidal silica, sodium polyacrylate, tetraalkyl and / or trialkylarylammonium montmorillonite, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica, carboxyvinyl polymers, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, ethylene glycol monostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Preferably, the composition contains a preservative to prevent the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Examples of ingredients that can be used as preservatives in the composition include alkyl benzoates, hydantoin derivatives, propionates, and various quaternary ammonium compounds. More preferably, ingredients that can be used as preservatives in the composition include sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, ethylhexylglycerin, benzyl alcohol, alkanediols, and mixtures thereof. Alkanediols suitable for use as preservatives are C6-C12 alkanes substituted with a hydroxyl group at the ortho position. Illustrative examples include 1,2-octanediol (octanediol), 2,3-octanediol, 1,2-nonanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 3,4-octanediol, mixtures thereof, etc., wherein octanediol is generally the most preferred. When present in the composition, the amount of preservative added is preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0.02 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably 0.25 to 1.5%.

[0070] Preferably, the composition comprises a series of other optional ingredients, including antioxidants, binders, buffers, colorants, astringents, fragrances, sunscreens, conditioning agents, exfoliants, pH adjusters, skin feelers, skin soothing agents, and skin repair agents.

[0071] The compositions of the present invention can also be formulated into formats for cleaning local surfaces of the human or animal body. Topical skin compositions are so-called wash-off or rinse-off products. These formats mean that the composition is typically diluted with water and applied to a local surface (e.g., skin or hair), and then rinsed off with plenty of water after several minutes. Topical skin compositions can be in any format, either solid or liquid. When in solid form, they are preferably bars that may contain soap, synthetic anionic surfactants, or a combination of both.

[0072] The soap used to prepare the topical skin composition of the present invention is preferably a C8-C24 soap, more preferably a C10-C20 soap, and most preferably a C12-C18 soap. The cation of the soap can be an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or ammonium. Preferably, the cation of the soap is selected from sodium, potassium, or ammonium. More preferably, the cation of the soap is sodium or potassium. Fatty acids derived from other suitable oils / fats such as peanut, soybean, tallow, palm, palm kernel, etc., can also be used in other desired proportions.

[0073] The synthetic anionic surfactant used in wash-off compositions is preferably selected from alkyl ether sulfates, primary alkyl sulfates, secondary alkyl sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, or ethoxylated alkyl sulfates. In topical skin compositions, preferred anionic surfactants other than soaps are alkyl ether sulfates, preferably those having 1-3 ethylene oxide groups (from natural or synthetic sources) and / or sulfonic acids. Sodium lauryl ether sulfate is particularly preferred. Alkyl polyglucosides may also be present in the composition, preferably with a carbon chain length of C6-C6. 16 Those. When present, the anionic surfactant is preferably present in an amount of 1-90%, more preferably 10-85%, and more preferably 25-75% by weight of the topical skin composition. The topical skin composition is preferably in solid or semi-solid form, and most preferably in solid form. The preferred solid composition is in the form of a soap bar.

[0074] Preferred solid topical skin compositions may contain other known ingredients such as fragrances, pigments, preservatives, emollients, sunscreens, gelling agents, and thickeners. Water is a preferred carrier. When water is present, it is preferably present at least 1%, more preferably at least 2%, and even more preferably at least 5% by weight of the composition. When water is the carrier, preferred topical skin compositions contain 10-50%, more preferably 12-40%, and most preferably 12-22% water by weight.

[0075] The topical skin compositions of the present invention can also be delivered via moisturizing strips or moisturizing liquid compositions. Particularly preferred are moisturizing strip compositions comprising fatty acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates (e.g., cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate). Fatty acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate (e.g., cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate) surfactants are defined as "products" of anionic acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate surfactants and fatty acid / fatty acid soaps. They are highly desirable in personal care skin or hair cleansing products, particularly in personal care products, because they foam well, are gentle on the skin, and have good emollient properties. Typically, fatty acid hydroxyethyl sulfonate surfactant products are produced by the esterification of fatty acids or by the reaction of fatty acyl chlorides with carbon chain lengths of C8-C20 with hydroxyethyl sulfonic acid. Typical surfactant products containing fatty acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates contain about 40-95% by weight of acidic hydroxyethyl sulfonate, and 5-50% by weight, typically 10-40% by weight, usually less than 5%, of free fatty acids (other than hydroxyethyl sulfonate), and trace amounts (less than 2% by weight) of other additives. Fatty acid soaps may be included in the range of 5-15% by weight. Other surfactants such as betaine may be included in the range of 1-5% by weight. Water is typically included in the range of 2-8% by weight of the composition.

[0076] Wash-off compositions in liquid form typically contain low concentrations of surfactants and are gentle on the skin. The surfactant is typically contained at 4-18%, preferably 6-12%, of the liquid topical skin composition by weight. Surfactants used in the liquid topical skin compositions of the present invention are preferably anionic, nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric. A useful surfactant used in the liquid topical skin compositions of the present invention is sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES). SLES used in the present invention typically preferably has 1-3 ethoxylated (EO) groups. SLES is preferably contained at 3-8% of the composition by weight. Other surfactants that may be included in the present invention are cocamide monoethanolamine (CMEA). CMEA is preferably contained at 1-3% of the composition by weight. A preferred aspect of the liquid topical skin compositions of the present invention relates to aspects in which the surfactant comprises a mixture of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) and cocamide monoethanolamine (CMEA). Another useful surfactant used in the liquid topical skin compositions of the present invention... Water is a preferred carrier in the liquid topical skin compositions of the present invention. In such compositions, water is typically present in an amount of 70 to 95% by weight. Preferred liquid topical skin compositions may include other known ingredients such as electrolytes, fragrances, pigments, preservatives, emollients, sunscreens, emulsifiers, gelling agents, and thickeners.

[0077] Other cosmetically acceptable carriers suitable for use in this invention may include mineral oils, silicone oils, synthetic or natural esters, and alcohols. These substances may be present in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 50% of the composition by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 30%, most preferably from 1% to 20%, including all such ranges.

[0078] Silicone oils can be classified into volatile and non-volatile types. As used herein, the term "volatile" refers to materials that have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably selected from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing 3 to 9, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Linear volatile siloxane materials typically have a viscosity of less than 5 centipoise at 25°C, while cyclic materials typically have a viscosity of less than 10 centipoise (measured at 20 RPM using a Brookfield viscometer, RV No. 3 spindle, at 25°C, normalized to mineral oil).

[0079] Non-volatile silicone oils that can be used as carrier materials include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and polyethersiloxane copolymers. Substantially non-volatile polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used herein include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, including crosslinked polymers and elastomers) with a viscosity of 5 to 100,000 centistokes at 25°C.

[0080] Typically, preferred siloxane sources are solutions of cyclopentasiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane. Suitable esters include: (1) Fatty acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, myristate oleyl ester, stearate oleyl ester and oleic acid oleyl ester; (2) Ether esters, such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols; (3) Polyol esters, such as ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glycerol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty acid esters, ethoxylated glycerol monostearate, 1,3-butanediol monostearate, 1,3-butanediol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid esters, dehydrated sorbitol fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene dehydrated sorbitol fatty acid esters; (4) Wax esters, such as beeswax, cetyl alcohol, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate; and (5) Sterol esters, of which soybean sterol and cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples.

[0081] Emulsifiers (or surfactants) may be present in compositions comprising the components of the present invention. When used, the total concentration of the emulsifier may be from 0.1 to 30% by weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, and most preferably from 1 to 9% by weight. The emulsifier may be selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric components. Particularly preferred nonionic components are C1 to C2C1 components having a condensation ratio of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobic component. 20 Fatty alcohols or acid hydrophobic compounds; C2-C10 alkylphenols condensed with 2 to 20 moles of epoxides; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglycerides; sorbitol, mono- and di-C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitol, and combinations thereof. Alkyl polysaccharides and glycosaminoglycans (e.g., methylglucamide) are also suitable nonionic emulsifiers. Preferred anionic emulsifiers include alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C8-C20 acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and combinations thereof.

[0082] Cationic emulsifiers that can be used include, for example, palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearatedimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Useful amphoteric emulsifiers include cocamidopropyl betaine, C12-C20 trialkyl betaine, sodium lauroylamphoacetate, and sodium lauroyldiamphoacetate, or mixtures thereof.

[0083] Other commonly preferred emulsifiers include glyceryl stearate, diol stearate, stearamide AMP, PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol, and emulsifying / thickening additives such as hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer / squalene and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Fragrances, fixatives, and abrasives may optionally be used in compositions comprising the components of the present invention. Each of these substances may be present in the range of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, of the composition.

[0085] Quaternary ammonium salts, such as dihydroxypropyltris(C1-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl)ammonium salts, can be used in the compositions of the present invention. These salts can be obtained by a variety of synthetic methods, most particularly by hydrolysis of chlorohydroxypropyltris(C1-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl)ammonium salts. Typically, the C1-C3 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl component on the quaternary ammonium group is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxymethyl, or mixtures thereof. A trimethylammonium group is particularly preferred, referred to as the "trimonium" group in INCI nomenclature. The most preferred type is 1,2-dihydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, wherein the C1-C3 alkyl group is methyl. When used, the quaternary ammonium salt accounts for 0.001 to 10% of the weight of the skin composition, preferably 0.1 to 6%, and most preferably 0.1 to 3%.

[0086] Other preferred humectants that can be used in the topical skin compositions of the present invention (particularly in combination with the aforementioned ammonium salts) include substituted ureas, such as hydroxymethylurea, hydroxyethylurea, hydroxypropylurea; bis(hydroxymethyl)urea; bis(hydroxyethyl)urea; bis(hydroxypropyl)urea; N,N'-dihydroxymethylurea; N,N'-dihydroxyethylurea; N,N'-dihydroxypropylurea; N,N,N'-trihydroxyethylurea; tetra(hydroxymethyl)urea; tetra(hydroxyethyl)urea; tetra(hydroxypropyl)urea; N-methyl-N'-hydroxyethylurea; N-ethyl-N'-hydroxyethylurea; N-hydroxypropyl-N'-hydroxyethylurea; and N,N'-dimethyl-N-hydroxyethylurea. When the term "hydroxypropyl" appears, it encompasses 3-hydroxy-n-propyl, 2-hydroxy-n-propyl, 3-hydroxyisopropyl, or 2-hydroxyisopropyl groups. Hydroxyethylurea is the most preferred. When used, the amount of substituted urea that may be used in the topical compositions of the present invention is 0.01 to 10%, 0.5 to 8%, or 2 to 6% of the weight of the composition. Further wetting agents used herein include petrolatum and / or various aquaporin-modifying active ingredients and / or oat flour. Also included are saccharide isomers, such as Pentavitin®, commercially available from Royal DSM. When used, these agents typically constitute 0.01 to 6% of the weight of the composition.

[0087] Non-soap surfactants The compositions of the present invention may contain non-soap surfactants, and are preferably cleansing, foaming, or wash-off compositions. Preferably, the topical skin composition contains 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 1 to 35% by weight, even more preferably 2 to 30% by weight, and most preferably 5 to 25% by weight of a non-soap surfactant based on the weight of the topical skin composition. The compositions of the present invention may contain anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, or amphoteric surfactants.

[0088] The synthetic anionic detergent active material that can be used in this invention can be an aliphatic sulfonate, such as a primary alkane (e.g., C8-C4). 22 ) sulfonates, primary alkanes (e.g., C8-C 22 disulfonates, C8-C 22 Olefin sulfonates, C8-C 22 Hydroxyalkyl sulfonates or alkyl glycerol ether sulfonates (AGS); or aromatic sulfonates, such as alkylbenzene sulfonates. Anionic surfactants can also be alkyl sulfates (e.g., C14). 12 -C 18 Alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates (including alkyl glycerol ether sulfates). Anionic surfactants may also contain mild surfactants, such as aminocarboxylic acids or their derivatives, for example, aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur / salt / ester / N-acyl derivatives and having glycine salt, glutamate, taurine, hydroxyethyl sulfonate functional groups and C12, C14 chains.

[0089] Anionic surfactants can also be alkyl sulfonyl succinates (including mono- and di-alkyl, e.g., C6-C). 22 sulfosuccinates; alkyl and acyl taurates, alkyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulfoacetates, C8-C 22 Alkyl phosphates and phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyalkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, C8-C 22 Monoalkyl succinates and maleates, sulfoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates, etc.

[0090] Sulfosuccinates can be monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the following formula: R 4 O2CCH2CH(SO3M)CO2M; and The following formula is amide-MEA sulfosuccinate: R 4 CONHCH2CH2O2CCH2CH(SO3M)CO2M Where R 4 The range is C8-C 22 Alkyl group and M is a solubilizing cation.

[0091] Sarcosine salts are usually represented by the following formula: R 1 CON(CH3)CH2CO2M, Where R 1 The range is C8-C 20 Alkyl group and M is a solubilizing cation.

[0092] Taurine salts are usually represented by the following formula: R 2 CONR3 CH2CH2SO3M Where R 2 The range is C8-C 20 Alkyl, R 3 The range is C1-C4 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

[0093] The topical skin composition of the present invention may contain C8-C 18 Acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates. These esters are prepared by reaction of an alkali metal hydroxyethyl sulfonate with a mixture of aliphatic carboxylic acids having 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value less than 20. At least 75% of the mixed carboxylic acids have 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25% have 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0094] Acylhydroxyethyl sulfonate can be an alkoxylated hydroxyethyl sulfonate, as described in U.S. Patent No. 5,393,466 to Ilardi et al., entitled “Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated Isethonic Acid,” issued February 28, 1995; which is incorporated herein by reference. Such compounds have the following general formula: RC-(O)OC(X)HC(Y)H2-(OCH-CH2) m -SO3M + , Where R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, m is an integer from 1 to 4, X and Y are hydrogen or alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbons, and M + It is a monovalent cation, such as sodium, potassium or ammonium.

[0095] The most preferred anionic surfactant used in the compositions of the present invention is selected from sulfonic acids, their salts, alkyl ether sulfates, mixtures and combinations thereof. The most preferred anionic surfactant may include sodium dodecyl ether sulfate, its derivatives, such as ethylene oxide derivatives, etc.

[0096] Preferably, the topical skin composition comprises an anionic surfactant in the range of 0.1 to 40% by weight of the composition, more preferably in the range of 1 to 35% by weight, even more preferably in the range of 2 to 30% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 5 to 25% by weight.

[0097] Preferably, the cationic surfactant used for the purposes of this invention is, for example, a quaternary ammonium surfactant, including but not limited to: benzalkonium chloride, alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl hydroxysulfonyl betaine alkylamine, alkylimidazolium, and ethoxylated amine. Preferably, the topical skin composition comprises a cationic surfactant in the range of 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 1 to 35% by weight, further more preferably 2 to 30% by weight, and most preferably 5 to 25% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

[0098] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant used for the purposes of this invention is, for example, an acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, such as sodium acrylampatacetate, cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), hydroxysulfonate derived from coconut fatty acids or lauric acid, disodium acrylampatadipropionate, disodium alkylamphoteric acid, sodium acrylampatadihydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acrylampatadiacetate and sodium acrylampatadipropionate, N-alkyl amino acids, such as aminopropylalkylglutamine, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimide dipropionate and lauroylamphoteric carboxyglycinate. Preferably, the topical skin composition contains an amphoteric surfactant in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, even more preferably 1 to 7% by weight, and most preferably 2 to 6% by weight.

[0099] Preferably, the composition comprises a combination of anionic synthetic surfactant and amphoteric surfactant (e.g., betaine), especially when the anionic surfactant accounts for 50% or more of such synthetic surfactant mixture.

[0100] One or more nonionic surfactants can be used as co-surfactants in the topical skin compositions of the present invention. The nonionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 5%, 7.5%, or 10% by weight and as high as 20%, 25%, or 30% by weight. The nonionic surfactants that can be used particularly include the reaction products of compounds having hydrophobic groups and reactive hydrogen atoms (e.g., fatty alcohols, acids, amides, or alkylphenols) with alkyl oxides (especially ethylene oxide alone or with propylene oxide). Specific nonionic detergent compounds are alkyl (C6-C4) compounds. 22 ) Phenolic ethylene oxide condensates, aliphatic (C8-C) 18 These are products obtained by the condensation of straight-chain or branched primary or secondary alcohols with ethylene oxide, as well as products obtained by the condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Other so-called nonionic detergent compounds include long-chain tertiary amine oxides, long-chain tertiary phosphine oxides, and dialkyl sulfoxides.

[0101] Preferred nonionic surfactants include alkyl polyglucosides and carboxylic acid / alcohol ethoxylates having the following structures. a) HOCH2(CH2) n (CH2CH2O) x H or b) HOOC(CH2) m (CH2CH2O) y H; Where m and n are independently <18; and x and y are independently >1; preferably m and n are independently 6 to 18; and x and y are independently 1 to 30; c) HOOC(CH2) i -CH=CH-(CH2) k (CH2CH2O) z H; Where i and k are independently 5 to 15; and z is independently 5 to 50; preferably i and k are independently 6 to 12; and z is independently 15 to 35.

[0102] Nonionic surfactants may also include glycoamides, such as polysaccharide amides. Specifically, the surfactant may be one of the lactosamides described in U.S. Patent No. 5,389,279, entitled "Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants," issued February 14, 1995, by Au et al.; or may be one of the glycoamides described in U.S. Patent No. 5,009,814, entitled "Use of N-Poly Hydroxyalkyl FattyAcid Amides as Thickening Agents for Liquid Aqueous Surfactant Systems," issued April 23, 1991, by Kelkenberg; or may be one of the glycoamides described in this application by introduction.

[0103] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant used for the purposes of this invention is, for example, an alkanolamide such as cocamide MEADEA / MIPA, an ester produced by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols and esters, such as ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers, and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and cocoyl glucoside. Preferably, the topical skin composition comprises a nonionic surfactant in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 8% by weight, further more preferably in the range of 1 to 7% by weight, and most preferably in the range of 2 to 6% by weight.

[0104] Suitable surfactants that can be used in the formulations disclosed herein may include one or more of sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium sulfate, sodium silicate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoyl sulfate, and sodium dodecyl sulfate. In one embodiment, the surfactant may include sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate. In another embodiment, the surfactant may include disodium dodecyl sulfosuccinate. In a further embodiment, the surfactant may include a mixture of dodecyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, sodium sulfate, sodium silicate, and sodium cocoyl sulfate. In yet another embodiment, the surfactant may include sodium lauryl sulfate. Suitable surfactants are not limited to those listed herein, but may include other surfactants that are in powder form and water-soluble prior to their incorporation into the formulation to maximize the cleaning potential of the formulation.

[0105] Co-surfactants For the purposes of this invention, alkoxylated nonionic surfactants (which are a class of nonionic surfactants) are specifically defined as co-surfactants. Furthermore, only for the purposes of this invention, alkoxylated nonionic surfactants as co-surfactants are distinguished from other nonionic surfactants previously defined because alkoxylated nonionic surfactants as co-surfactants contain at least two or more alkyl epoxide groups. (Conversely, nonionic surfactants having fewer than two EO groups are considered to be the surfactants described in the preceding paragraphs). Examples of alkoxylated nonionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, condensation products of straight-chain or branched aliphatic alcohols, acids, phenols, esters, glycerides, amines, and amides. Preferred co-surfactants are ethoxylated nonionic surfactants having 2-12, most preferably 2-6 ethylene oxide (EO) groups. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are ethoxylated fatty amides having 2-12, most preferably 2-6 (EO) groups.

[0106] Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain a co-surfactant in the range of 0 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 8% by weight, and most preferably 3 to 7% by weight.

[0107] electrolytes The topical skin composition of the present invention may contain an electrolyte. Electrolytes used for the purposes of the present invention may include inorganic salts (e.g., sodium chloride, potassium chloride) and organic salts (e.g., sodium citrate). In addition to the hydrochloride and citrate salts described above, other salts include phosphates, sulfates, and other halide salts. The counterions of such salts may be sodium or other monovalent cations, as well as divalent and trivalent cations.

[0108] The topical skin composition may optionally contain an electrolyte. When present, the electrolyte may range from 0.01 to 5% by weight of the topical skin composition, more preferably from 0.1 to 4.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.1 to 4.5% by weight. These weight percentage values ​​include cases where the electrolyte is used as a rheology modifier.

[0109] Chelating agents The topical skin composition of the present invention may contain a chelating agent. Preferably, the chelating agent in the topical skin composition is present in the range of 0.1 to 3% by weight of the topical skin composition, more preferably in the range of 0.2 to 2.5% by weight of the topical skin composition, and most preferably in the range of 0.2 to 1.5% by weight of the topical skin composition.

[0110] Preferably, the chelating agent in the topical skin composition is present at a weight of at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably at least 0.8% by weight, and most preferably at least 1% by weight.

[0111] Preferably, the chelating agent in the topical skin composition is present at a maximum of 3% by weight of the topical skin composition, more preferably at a maximum of 2.5% by weight, even more preferably at a maximum of 2% by weight, and most preferably at a maximum of 1.5% by weight.

[0112] Preferred chelating agents are as follows (the abbreviations are in parentheses after the names): Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (EDDS), nitrotriacetic acid (NTA), sodium iminodisuccinate (IDS), ethylene glycol-bis-(2-aminoethyl)-N,N,N′,N′-tetraacetic acid (EGTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ethylenediamine-N,N,N′-triacetic acid (HEDTA) Ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid (DTPMP), glutamic acid-N,N-diacetic acid (GLDA), cyclohexane-1,2-diamine-N,N′,N′,N'-tetraacetic acid (CDTA), 1,3-propanediaminetetraacetic acid (PDTA), ethylenediaminetriacetic acid (EDTA), L-hydroxyiminodisuccinic acid (L-IDS), trisodium N-carboxyethyliminosuccinate (CEIS), citric acid, sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), and triethylenetetraminehexaacetic acid (TTHA). Other preferred chelating agents are trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, sodium gluconate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, tetrasodium glutamate-N,N-diacetate, sodium 2-hydroxyethyliminodiacetate (disodium ethanol diglycine), tetrasodium 3-hydroxy-2,2-iminodisuccinate, trisodium methylglycine diacetate, and tetrasodium L-aspartic acid-N,N-diacetate. More preferred chelating agents are salts of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA). Preferred EDTA salts are disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate and tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate. Preferred DTPA salt is pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate.

[0113] Most preferably, the chelating agent suitable for the compositions of the present invention is selected from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), or diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), its derivatives and combinations thereof, and mixtures thereof. EDTA derivatives are selected from tetrasodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, disodium EDTA, and combinations thereof. DTPA derivatives are selected from tetrasodium DTPA, trisodium DTPA, disodium DTPA, and combinations thereof.

[0114] preservative The topical skin composition of the present invention may contain a preservative. Preferably, the preservative in the topical skin composition is present in the range of 0.1 to 3% by weight of the topical skin composition, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2% by weight of the topical skin composition, and most preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1% by weight of the topical skin composition.

[0115] Preservatives can be incorporated into topical skin compositions containing components of the present invention to help combat the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Conventional preservatives suitable for the compositions of the present invention include alkyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives include hydantoin derivatives, propionates, and various quaternary ammonium compounds. Generally preferred preservatives are iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, sodium benzoate, and benzyl alcohol. Particularly preferred additives suitable for use in conjunction with preservatives in the present invention are 1,2-alkyldiols (such as 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-hexanediol) and commonly used aromatic oils (added alone or with fragrances to prolioid compositions), such as eugenol, coumarins, linalyl acetate, citronellol, iris concentrate, terpineyl acetate, pinene (α-pinene and β-pinene), and citronellol.

[0116] Examples of very useful preservatives suitable for the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, chlorite components, sorbic acid components, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Other preferred preservatives include, but are not limited to, those commonly used in cosmetics, such as dibromo-2-bromomethylglutaronitrile (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutaronitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinyl hamstoff, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, and benzyl alcohol.

[0118] According to the present invention, the preservative is particularly preferred from methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), DMDM ​​hydantoin and benzyl alcohol and / or mixtures or combinations thereof.

[0119] water The topical skin composition of the present invention may contain water in the range of 5 to 90% by weight, more preferably 5 to 80% by weight, and most preferably 10 to 70% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. The compositions of the present invention are primarily aqueous compositions.

[0120] The weight percentage of water can also be selected depending on the form and format of the topical skin composition. For example, if the composition is a concentrate, it will have a lower water content compared to a higher water weight percentage used to prepare the final topical skin composition.

[0121] rheology modifiers The compositions of the present invention may contain rheology modifiers, which are agents that affect the rheological properties of a topical skin composition. These agents may be thickeners such as polymers, and may include electrolyte salts that can alter the rheological properties of the topical skin composition. Based on the weight of the topical skin composition of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention may contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 9% by weight, and most preferably 1 to 8.5% by weight of the rheology modifier.

[0122] Thickeners may optionally be included in the topical skin compositions of the present invention. Examples include natural / synthetic gums and cellulose products. Representative examples include xanthan gum, sclerotium, pectin, gum arabic, gum arabic, agar, guar gum, carrageenan, alginate, and combinations thereof. Suitable cellulose products include hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, ethyl cellulose, and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose. Synthetic polymers are another class of effective thickeners. This class includes crosslinked polyacrylates such as carbomer, polyacrylamides such as Sepigel® 305, and taurate copolymers such as Simulgel EG® and Aristoflex® AVC, which are identified by their respective INCI nomenclature as sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate and acryloyl dimethyl taurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. Another preferred synthetic polymer suitable for thickening is an acrylate-based polymer commercially available through Seppic and sold under the name Simulgel IN 100. Polyquaternium-32 and / or polyquaternium-37 are also suitable for use.

[0123] Cellulose microfibrils can be used as thickeners, and they include secondary cell wall materials (e.g., wood pulp, cotton), bacterial cellulose, and primary cell wall materials. Primary cell wall materials are typically derived from the sap tissues of fruits, roots, corms, tubers, seeds, leaves, and combinations thereof; more preferably from citrus fruits, tomato fruits, peach fruits, squash fruits, kiwi fruits, apple fruits, mango fruits, beets, beetroots, turnips, parsnip, corn, oats, wheat, peas, and combinations thereof; and even more preferably from citrus fruits, tomato fruits, and combinations thereof. The most preferred source of primary cell wall material is the sap tissue of citrus fruits. Citrus fibers, such as those obtained by Herbacel® as AQ Plus, can also be used as a source of cellulose microfibrils. Cellulose sources can be surface modified by any known method, including those described in Colloidal Polymer Science, Kalia et al., "Nanofibrillated cellulose: surface modification and potential applications" (2014), Vol. 292, pp. 5–31.

[0124] Thickeners can be water-soluble / water-dispersible polymers. These polymers can be cationic, anionic, amphoteric, or nonionic, and have a molecular weight greater than 100,000 Daltons. They are known to improve the viscosity and stability of liquid cleanser compositions, enhance the sensory feel on and off the skin during use, and enhance the creaminess and stability of foam. When present, the amount of the polymer can range from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the composition. Preferably, the thickening polymer is present in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight of the topical skin composition of the present invention, more preferably 0.1 to 9% by weight, and most preferably 1 to 8.5% by weight.

[0125] Examples of water-soluble / or water-dispersible polymers and rheology modifiers include gums such as cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gel, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, guar gum, gum arabic, gum arabic, gum acacia, agar gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof; emulsion polymers such as Aculyn® 28; cationic polymers such as modified polysaccharides, including cationic guar gum such as Jaguar® C13S, Jaguar® C17, or Jaguar® C16; cationic modified cellulose such as UCARE® Polymer JR 30 or JR 40; N-Hance® 3000, N-Hance® 3196, N-Hance® GPX 215, or N-Hance® GPX196 from Hercules; and synthetic cationic polymers such as Merquat® 100 and Merquat® sold by Nalco. 280, Merquat® 281, and Merquat® 550; cationic galactomannans, such as Henkel, Inc.'s Galactasol® 800 series; Quadrosoft® LM-200; and Polyquaternium-24®. High molecular weight polyethylene glycols, such as Polyox® WSR-205 (PEG 14M), Polyox® WSR-N-60K (PEG 45), and Polyox® WSR-301 (PEG 90M), are also suitable. Other cationic cellulose derivatives are cationic guar gum derivatives.

[0126] The electrolytes mentioned above can be used as rheology modifiers.

[0127] For the purposes of this invention, the rheology modifier is different from starch, and more preferably different from ungelatinized starch.

[0128] soap The topical skin composition of the present invention may contain about 0.1 to 40% by weight of soap, more preferably 2 to 30% by weight, and most preferably about 5 to 25% by weight, based on the weight of the topical skin composition. Preferably, the topical skin composition has 0.1 to 40% by weight of total fatty substances (TFM).

[0129] The term "soap" refers to a salt of fatty acids, wherein the accompanying cation can be an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium ion, preferably an alkali metal. Preferably, the cation is sodium or potassium. Soap can be saturated or unsaturated, depending on the nature of the corresponding fatty acid and / or oil used for saponification.

[0130] Moisturizer The compositions of the present invention may contain emollients. The term "emollient" is defined as a substance that softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthful appearance of the skin (stratum corneum) by increasing its water content, adding or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both, and maintains its softness by slowing down the decrease of its water content.

[0131] Humectants (which are also wetting agents, such as polyhydroxy alcohols, for example, glycerol and propylene glycol; and polyols, such as polyethylene glycol, such as Polyox WSR N-60K (PEG-45M)) are used in preferred embodiments of the invention. The wetting agents are preferably used in amounts of at least 0.5% by weight, 2.5% by weight, or 5% by weight, and at most 15% by weight, 20% by weight, or 25% by weight.

[0132] Hydrophobic emollients are used in preferred embodiments of the invention. Preferably, they are hydrophobic emollients having a weight-average particle size of less than 1000 or 500 micrometers in diameter, and are defined herein as “finely dispersed oils.” These emollients are preferably used in amounts of a minimum of 0.5 wt%, 2.5 wt%, or 5 wt%, and a maximum of 15 wt%, 20 wt%, or 25 wt%.

[0133] Suitable hydrophobic emollients include, but are not limited to, the following: (a) Silicone oils and their modifiers, such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl and aryl silicone oils; (b) Fats and oils, including natural fats and oils (triglycerides), such as jojoba oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, rice bran oil, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, sesame oil, peach kernel oil, castor oil, coconut oil and mink oil; cocoa butter; beef tallow, lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenation of the above oils; and synthetic monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides, such as glyceryl myristate and glyceryl 2-ethylhexanoate; (c) Waxes, such as carnauba wax, cetacean wax, beeswax, lanolin and their derivatives; (d) Hydrophobic plant extracts; (e) Hydrocarbons, such as petrolatum, polybutene, liquid paraffin, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil; (f) Higher alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cholesterol and 2-hexyldecyl alcohol; (g) Esters, such as cetyl caprylate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate, and alkyl tartrate; (h) Essential oils and their extracts, such as peppermint, jasmine, camphor, white cedarwood, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, Satsuma mandarin, calamus, pine, lavender, bay leaf, clove, cypress, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemongrass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grape seed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elderflower, geranium, linden flower, amaranth, seaweed, ginkgo, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oats, cocoa, orange blossom, vanilla, green tea, pennywort. royal), aloe vera, menthol, eucalyptol, eugenol, citral, citronellol, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirostol, pentene, limonene, and terpene oils; (i) Mixtures of any of the above components, etc.

[0134] Beneficial agents In addition to the ingredients described above, preferred embodiments of the topical skin composition may also include other optional and preferred ingredients due to their known benefits. The type and amount depend largely on the nature and type of the topical skin composition and general pharmaceutical principles.

[0135] Other optional compositions may contain one or more skin-beneficial agents. The term "skin-beneficial agent" is defined as a substance that softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthful appearance of the skin (stratum corneum) by increasing its water content, adding or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both; and by maintaining its softness by slowing the decrease in its water content. Suitable skin-beneficial agents include emollients, including, for example, hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Water-soluble skin-beneficial agents may optionally be formulated into the liquid compositions of the present invention. A variety of water-soluble skin-beneficial agents may be used, and the level may be 0 to 50% by weight of the composition, but preferably 1 to 30% by weight. These materials include, but are not limited to, polyhydroxy alcohols.

[0136] Water-insoluble skin-beneficial agents can also be formulated into compositions as conditioning and moisturizing agents. Examples include silicone oils; hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, and mineral oils; and vegetable triglycerides such as sunflower seed oil and cottonseed oil.

[0137] A variety of other optional materials can be formulated into the composition. These may include: antimicrobial agents; scrubs and exfoliating particles, such as polyethylene with silica or alumina; cooling agents, such as menthol; skin soothing agents, such as aloe vera; and colorants.

[0138] Shower gels or washes may contain particles with an average diameter of approximately 50 μm, which help remove dry skin. Without being bound by theory, the degree of exfoliation depends on the size and morphology of the particles. Large, coarse particles are often very harsh and irritating. Very small particles may not be effective exfoliants. Such exfoliants used in the art include natural minerals such as silica, talc, calcite, pumice, tricalcium phosphate; seeds such as rice, apricot kernels, etc.; ground shells such as almond and walnut shells; oats; polymers such as polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol beads; petals and leaves; microcrystalline wax beads; jojoba ester beads, etc. These exfoliants exhibit a wide variety of particle sizes and morphologies, ranging from micrometers to millimeters. They also have a range of hardness. Some examples are talc, calcite, pumice, walnut shells, dolomite, and polyethylene.

[0139] Advantageously, active agents other than skin conditioning agents as defined above may also be incorporated into the composition. These active ingredients may advantageously include antibacterial agents, vitamins, anti-acne active substances; anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy, and skin repair active substances; skin barrier repair active substances; non-steroidal cosmetic soothing active substances; artificial tanning agents and accelerators; skin brightening active substances; sunscreen active substances; sebum stimulants; sebum inhibitors; antioxidants; protease inhibitors; skin firming agents; antipruritic ingredients; hair growth inhibitors; 5-α reductase inhibitors; desquamating enzyme enhancers; anti-glycation agents; or mixtures thereof; etc.

[0140] These active agents may be selected from water-soluble active agents, oil-soluble active agents, pharmaceutically acceptable salts, and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term "active agent" means a personal care active substance that may be used to deliver benefits to the skin and / or hair, and is generally not used to provide skin conditioning benefits delivered via emollients as defined above. As used herein, the term "safe and effective amount" means an amount of active agent that is high enough to alter the condition being treated or to deliver the desired skin care benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. As used herein, the term "benefit" means a therapeutic, preventative, and / or long-term benefit associated with the treatment of a particular condition using one or more of the active agents described herein. The safe and effective amount of an active agent will vary depending on the specific active agent, the ability of the active substance to penetrate the skin, the user's age, health condition, and skin condition, and other similar factors.

[0141] A wide variety of active ingredients can be used in the compositions of the present invention, including those selected from anti-acne active substances, anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy active substances, skin barrier repair aids, cosmetic soothing aids, local anesthetics, artificial tanning agents and accelerators, skin brightening active substances, antimicrobial and antifungal active substances, sunscreen active substances, sebum stimulants, sebum inhibitors, anti-glycation active substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] Anti-acne active ingredients can effectively treat acne vulgaris, a chronic condition of sebaceous gland follicles. Non-limiting examples of useful anti-acne active substances include keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid and 4-methoxysalicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially their N-acetyl derivatives, mixtures thereof, etc.

[0143] Skin barrier repair active substances are skin care active ingredients that help repair and replenish the natural moisture barrier function of the epidermis. Non-limiting examples of skin barrier repair active substances include lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudoceramides, as described in European Patent Specification No. 556957; ascorbic acid; biotin; biotin esters; phospholipids, mixtures thereof, etc.

[0144] Artificial tanning agents can help mimic natural tanning by increasing melanin in the skin or by creating the appearance of increased melanin production. Non-limiting examples of artificial tanning agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosine ester and glucosyl tyrosine ester; mixtures thereof, etc.

[0145] Sunscreen active ingredients are also useful. Non-limiting examples of sunscreen agents useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxybenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, oxybenzone, mixtures thereof, etc.

[0146] Protease inhibitors are also useful. Protease inhibitors can be divided into two main classes: proteases and peptidases. Proteases act on specific internal peptide bonds of proteins, while peptidases act on peptide bonds adjacent to the free amino or carboxyl groups at the ends of proteins and thus cleave proteins from the outside. Protease inhibitors suitable for the personal topical skin compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, proteases such as serine proteases, metalloproteinases, cysteine ​​proteases, and aspartic proteases, and peptidases such as carboxypeptidases, dipeptidases, and aminopeptidases, mixtures thereof, etc.

[0147] The active ingredients in the topical skin compositions of the present invention may also include antipruritic ingredients. Suitable examples of antipruritic ingredients that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include hydrocortisone, methdilizine, and trimeprazine, mixtures thereof, etc.

[0148] Non-limiting examples of hair growth inhibitors that can be used in the topical skin compositions of the present invention include 17-β-estradiol, anti-angiogenic steroids, turmeric extract, cyclooxygenase inhibitors, evening primrose oil, linoleic acid, etc. Suitable 5-α-reductase inhibitors, such as ethinylestradiol, genistine, and mixtures thereof, etc.

[0149] Advantageously, the cationic skin feeler or polymer is used in amounts of about 0.01% by weight, 0.1% by weight or 0.2% by weight to about 1% by weight, 1.5% by weight or 2.0% by weight.

[0150] Cationic cellulose can be polymerized in the Polymer JR® and LR® series from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA), such as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethylammonium-substituted epoxides, known industrially (CTFA) as Polyquaternium® 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymerized quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethylammonium-substituted epoxides, known industrially (CTFA) as Polyquaternium® 24. These materials are also available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the trade name Polymer LM-200®, as well as quaternary ammonium compounds such as alkyl dimethyl ammonium halides.

[0151] Particularly suitable types of cationic polysaccharide polymers that can be used are cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc under the JAGUAR® brand). Examples include JAGUAR® C13S, which has a low degree of cationic substitution and high viscosity; JAGUAR® C15, which has a moderate degree of substitution and low viscosity; JAGUAR® C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity); JAGUAR® C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar gum derivative containing low levels of substituent groups and cationic quaternary ammonium groups; and JAGUAR® 162, which is a high-transparency, medium-viscosity guar gum with a low degree of substitution.

[0152] Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR® C13S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17, JAGUAR® C16, and JAGUAR® C162, especially JAGUAR® C13S. Other cationic skin-feeling agents known in the art may be used, provided they are compatible with the formulations of the present invention.

[0153] Other preferred cationic compounds that can be used in this invention include amide quaternary ammonium compounds, such as quaternary ammonium propionates and lactates, as well as quaternary ammonium hydrolysates of silk or wheat proteins. Many of these compounds are available from McIntyre Group Ltd. (University Park, Ill.) as Mackine® aminofunctional amines, Mackalene® aminofunctional tertiary amine salts, and Mackpro® cationic protein hydrolysates.

[0154] In embodiments containing a hydrolyzed protein conditioner, the average molecular weight of the hydrolyzed protein is preferably about 2500. Preferably, 90% of the hydrolyzed protein has a molecular weight between about 1500 and about 3500. In a preferred embodiment, MACKPRO® WWP (i.e., wheat germ dimethylamine hydrolyzed wheat protein) is added to the strip at a concentration of 0.1% (as is).

[0155] method Topical skin compositions can be prepared using any known industrial method for preparing compositions, depending on the selected suitable cosmetically acceptable agent.

[0156] When the topical skin composition is a liquid cleansing composition, the method may include the following steps: a. Dissolve a non-soap surfactant and disperse a rheology modifier in water to form an aqueous medium. b. Add starch-containing complex carbohydrates to the aqueous medium of step (a) to obtain a liquid cleaning composition; PPAR activator is added during step (a) or (b).

[0157] Optionally, soap ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight may be added.

[0158] When the topical skin composition is a solid cleansing composition, the method may include the following steps: i) Extrude the soap slab obtained in step (b) to obtain a soap bar according to the first aspect.

[0159] In step (i) or (ii), 0.01 to 5% by weight of PPAR activator based on the weight of the soap bar composition is added; and In step (i) or (ii), 0.1 to 5% by weight of electrolyte is added based on the weight of the soap bar composition.

[0160] When the topical skin composition is a skin cream or lotion, the method may include emulsifying an aqueous phase containing a water-soluble component with an oil phase containing an oil-soluble component, and adding an emulsifier, stabilizer, preservative, and optionally a rheology modifier. The rheological properties of the composition can be adjusted according to the desired formulation.

[0161] use The present invention provides the use of a PPAR activator (preferably hydroxystearic acid) and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to the first aspect for providing a uniform skin tone compared to a topical skin composition not containing the PPAR activator and the starch-containing complex carbohydrate, as measured by various comparative methods.

[0162] The present invention provides the use of a PPAR activator (preferably hydroxystearic acid) and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to the first aspect for providing skin clarity and spot fading compared to a topical skin composition not containing the PPAR activator and the starch-containing complex carbohydrate, as measured by various comparative methods.

[0163] The present invention provides the use of PPAR activators (preferably hydroxystearic acid) and starch-containing complex carbohydrates in a topical skin composition according to the first aspect for achieving additional skin health, aging, barrier, and appearance benefits compared to a topical skin composition not containing PPAR activators and starch-containing complex carbohydrates, as measured by various comparative methods.

[0164] The invention will now be described through the following non-limiting embodiments.

[0165] Example While the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments thereof, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that many other forms and modifications of the invention will be readily apparent. The appended claims and the invention itself should generally be construed as covering all such obvious forms and modifications that fall within the true spirit and scope of the invention.

[0166] Example 1: Preparation of formulation Soap bar composition: The soap-making process primarily begins with the basic step of saponifying oily ingredients with alkali to produce soap slabs. This process may or may not include other excipients and additives, such as (but not limited to) electrolytes, polyols, etc. The required amounts of fatty acids and other raw materials are weighed and loaded into a mixer. This neutralization reaction is carried out using an aqueous solution of alkali. The completion of neutralization is checked using a phenolphthalein indicator test; and, if necessary, additional alkali is added to ensure the neutralization reaction is complete. In-process quality checks are performed before the soap slabs undergo further processing (including but not limited to passing the soap slabs through cooling rollers and subsequently into a refining mill to convert them into strips).

[0167] In the final step, soap bars are added to the mixer. They are then pulverized. Other formulation additives (including but not limited to starch, 12HSA, etc.) are added in the required amounts and mixing continues. The desired colorant is dissolved in water before being added to the mixer contents. Finally, the fragrance is added, and mixing continues to achieve a uniform macro-mixture. The resulting formulation material is then discharged and conveyed for further machining, including but not limited to extrusion from a pressing machine, followed by stamping into soap bars of the desired shape, size, and branding.

[0168] Soap compositions (E1 and E2) prepared according to the present invention have starch contents of 11% and 17% by weight, respectively, based on the weight of the soap bar compositions of the present invention, and are prepared using the formulations shown in Table 1; and formulation E3 is outside the scope of the present invention and does not contain starch. All soap bar compositions contain hydroxystearic acid.

[0169] Clinical dermatological assessments were performed on compositions E1 through E3 to obtain the mean CFB- change relative to baseline, as well as consumer-perceived consumer testing (on a scale of 1 to 5).

[0170] Gloss and Transparency - Comprehensive Gloss Scale Gloss and translucency were assessed using methods described in (Kumari R et al., Int J Res Dermatol. 2022 Nov; 8(6):593-600). Double-blind, randomized clinical trials were conducted under the supervision of dermatologists and evaluated by dermatologists. This included panel members at Fitzpatrick scale 3–5 and, according to dermatologists, those with melasma. Panel members were given a washout period to allow for acclimatization, and the study duration was extended from a minimum of 1 week to a maximum of 12 weeks. The dermatologists used in this study were trained and validated in their evaluation skills. The four main visual skin properties influencing G&R assessment were identified as gloss, translucency, skin tone evenness, and melasma reduction.

[0171] Scale and Calculation - The "Multi-Parameter Integrated G&R Scale" is based on visual perceptions of radiance, clarity, evenness of skin tone, and reduction of blemishes. Each parameter is independently assessed on a scale of (1-5) using an intermediate rating system. The scale includes all skin colors and ethnicities. The sensitivity of the scale has been validated on colored skin using various skin products (visual representation of the scale on colored skin populations).

[0172] Skin tone unevenness - Participants were instructed to wash their face and forearms with water and acclimatize at the test center. After acclimatization, participants were assessed by a trained dermatologist using a skin tone evenness scale, which is based on the assessment of skin color changes over the test area. Skin tone evenness is rated from 1 to 5, with lower values ​​indicating uneven skin tone and higher values ​​indicating even skin tone. Skin tone evenness is a result of phenotypic changes, which are mostly peripheral and difficult to detect, and a statistically significant improvement in skin tone evenness score observed after product use is an indication of significant improvement in skin tone evenness.

[0173] Skin Transparency - Report: Subjects assessed were instructed to wash their face and forearms with water and acclimatize at the test center. After acclimatization, subjects were assessed by a trained dermatologist using a skin transparency scale based on reflectance / luminosity assessment. Skin transparency is rated from 1 to 5, where lower values ​​indicate opaque skin and higher values ​​indicate transparent skin. Skin transparency is a result of phenotypic changes, which are mostly marginal and difficult to detect. A statistically significant improvement in skin transparency score observed after product use is an indication of improved skin transparency.

[0174] Blemish Reduction - Report: Subjects undergoing evaluation were instructed to wash their face and forearms with water and acclimatize at the test center. After acclimatization, subjects were assessed by a trained dermatologist using a Blemish Reduction Scale. Blemish reduction is rated on a scale of 1-5, where lower values ​​indicate no change in blemishes, while higher values ​​indicate a noticeable reduction or fading of the blemishes being evaluated. Blemish reduction is a result of phenotypic changes, most of which are peripheral and difficult to detect; a statistically significant improvement in the blemish reduction score observed after product use is an indication of blemish fading.

[0175] Consumer Trial Consumers from different ethnic backgrounds, communities, and initial skin types were considered. A study of over 1000 consumers across geographic regions showed preference for soap compositions with E1 to E3 within one week of product use. This included parameters such as skin shine, softness and smoothness, gentleness and mildness to the skin. Analysis was performed using industry-standard statistical methods. Data extracted from a single market cluster are presented in Table 1. Scales ranged from 1 to 5, where 1 indicates strong disagreement and 5 indicates strong agreement, based on the following questions: i. Is the soap gentle and mild on my skin? ii. Does soap make my skin soft and smooth? iii. Does soap give my skin a beautiful glow? Table 2:

[0176] The data presented above clearly demonstrate that compositions E1 and E2 prepared according to the present invention exhibit synergistic and significantly better results in improving skin benefits, such as skin radiance and translucency, evenness of skin tone, skin clarity, and fading of blemishes, in contrast to E3, which only lacks starch. Furthermore, consumer trial data indicate that consumers prefer the soap compositions of the present invention, namely E1 and E2, rather than composition E3, which is similar but outside the scope of the present invention.

[0177] Liquid cleaning composition: The chelating agent is dissolved in an aqueous medium, followed by the addition of solid non-soap surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate and cocamide MEA at 70-80°C until dissolved under stirring. Other liquid non-soap surfactants are then added. The rheology-modified acrylate polymer is dispersed in water, followed by polymer neutralization. Preservatives, colorants, fragrances, and other skin-beneficial additives are added. Starch pre-dispersed in a glycerol slurry is then added under rapid stirring, and the viscosity is finally adjusted with an electrolyte.

[0178] The starch is sourced from AGRANA STÄRKE-STÄRKINA NATURAL, a 100% natural potato starch originating in the EU, typically sourced from Austria and the Czech Republic. The corn is also sourced from AGRANA STÄRKE-MAISITA 9040, a 100% natural corn starch originating in the EU, typically sourced from Austria, Slovakia, and Hungary. The rice is sourced from AGRANA STÄRKE-REISITA NATURAL, a 100% natural rice starch.

[0179] Examples E1 to E3 were prepared according to the method described above. E1 was prepared without the use of a rheology modifier and contained 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA) but no starch. E2 contained an acrylate polymer as a rheology modifier and starch but no 12HSA, while E3 contained an acrylate polymer as a rheology modifier, 12-HSA, and starch. Compositions E1 to E3 were used in clinical studies for gloss and translucency, skin texture, uneven skin tone, skin clarity, skin hydration, spot fading, anti-pigmentation, and skin redness.

[0180] Table 1

[0181] Example 2: Clinical research methods and protocols: Gloss and Transparency - Comprehensive Gloss Scale Gloss and translucency were assessed using methods described in (Kumari R et al., Int J Res Dermatol. 2022 Nov; 8(6):593-600). Double-blind, randomized clinical trials were conducted under dermatological supervision and evaluation. This included panel members at Fitzpatrick scale 3–6 who, according to dermatologists, had dark spots. Panel members were given a washout period to allow for acclimatization, and the study duration was extended from a minimum of one week to a maximum of six weeks. Dermatologists used in this study were trained and validated in their evaluation skills. The four main visual skin properties influencing G&R assessment were identified as texture, skin tone evenness, translucency, and hydration.

[0182] Scale and Calculation - The "Multi-Parameter Integrated G&R Scale" is based on visual perceptions of radiance, clarity, evenness of skin tone, and reduction of blemishes. Each parameter is independently assessed on a scale of (1-5) using an intermediate rating system. The scale includes all skin colors and ethnicities. The sensitivity of the scale has been validated on colored skin using various skin products (visual representation of the scale on colored skin populations).

[0183] Skin Texture - Report: Subjects undergoing assessment were instructed to wash their face and forearms with water and acclimatize at the test center. After acclimatization, subjects were assessed by a trained dermatologist using a skin texture scale based on a visible assessment of changes in skin texture in the test area. Skin texture scores ranged from 1 to 5, with lower values ​​indicating rough skin and higher values ​​indicating smooth skin. Skin texture exhibits a transient effect in the presence of topical application, but it may or may not be a stable change, and a statistically significant increase in skin texture score observed after product use is an indication of significant improvement in skin texture.

[0184] Skin tone unevenness - Participants were instructed to wash their face and forearms with water and acclimatize at the test center. After acclimatization, participants were assessed by a trained dermatologist using a skin tone evenness scale, which is based on the assessment of skin color changes over the test area. Skin tone evenness is rated from 1 to 5, with lower values ​​indicating uneven skin tone and higher values ​​indicating even skin tone. Skin tone evenness is a result of phenotypic changes, which are mostly peripheral and difficult to detect, and a statistically significant improvement in skin tone evenness score observed after product use is an indication of significant improvement in skin tone evenness.

[0185] Skin Transparency - Report: Subjects assessed were instructed to wash their face and forearms with water and undergo adaptation at the test center. After adaptation, subjects were assessed by a trained dermatologist using a skin transparency scale based on reflectance / luminosity assessment. Skin transparency is rated from 1 to 5, with lower values ​​indicating opaque skin and higher values ​​indicating transparent skin. Skin transparency is a result of phenotypic changes, which are mostly marginal and difficult to detect; a statistically significant improvement in skin transparency score observed after product use is an indication of improved skin transparency.

[0186] Skin Hydration - Report: Subjects assessed were instructed to wash their face and forearms with water and acclimatize at the testing center. After acclimatization, subjects were assessed by a trained dermatologist using a skin hydration scale based on visual hydration assessment. Skin hydration is rated on a scale of 1-5, where lower values ​​indicate dry skin and higher values ​​indicate moist skin. Skin hydration levels are readily distinguishable because the skin shows significant results from any type of topical treatment (including water), which has a transient effect on skin hydration levels. A statistically significant increase in skin hydration score observed after product use is an indication of improved skin hydration.

[0187] Spot fading, anti-pigmentation, and skin redness reporting – Participants undergoing evaluation were instructed to wash their face and forearms with water and acclimatize at the test center. Following acclimatization, L-shaped spots on selected facial blemishes were assessed using an Antera 3D image analyzer. Improvement and reduction of melanin content and hemoglobin intensity in the forearm. Spot L Improved values ​​indicate fading or disappearance of the assessed spots, and reduced melanin content and hemoglobin intensity indicate a reduction in skin pigmentation and redness. Spots observed after product use (L) A statistically significant increase in melanin content and a decrease in hemoglobin intensity are indicators of fading spots, anti-pigmentation, and reduced skin redness.

[0188] Table 2

[0189] Compositions E1 and E3 were compared using dermatological assessment and image analysis to determine the change in mean CFB-relative baseline values. Appropriate statistical tools were used to analyze gloss and translucency, skin texture, skin clarity, and skin hydration. It was observed that, at 95% confidence limits, the increase in the corresponding parameter values ​​for E3 compared to E1 was statistically significant.

[0190] Table 3

[0191] Compositions E2 and E3 were compared using dermatological assessment and image analysis to determine the change in mean CFB-relative baseline values. Appropriate statistical tools were used to analyze gloss and translucency, skin texture, skin clarity, and skin hydration. It was observed that, at 95% confidence limits, the increase in the corresponding parameter values ​​for E3 compared to E1 was statistically significant.

Claims

1. A topical skin care composition comprising: i. 0.0001% to 5% by weight of PPAR activator; ii. 0.01% to 40% by weight of starchy complex carbohydrates; and Cosmetic-acceptable mediators are selected from water, oil, water or emulsions thickened with polymers, and siloxane systems; The PPAR activator is 10-hydroxystearic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid or a combination thereof; and The starch in the composition is in a natural and ungelatinized form.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the topical skin composition comprises a polyol in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the weight of the topical skin composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the complex carbohydrate comprises at least 50% by weight of starch based on the weight of the complex carbohydrate.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the starch particle size is in the range of 2-70 µm.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition comprises 0.1 to 3% by weight of a chelating agent based on the weight of the topical skin composition.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises 0.01 to 10% by weight of a rheology modifier based on the weight of the topical skin composition, said rheology modifier being selected from thickening polymers and electrolyte salts or a combination of both.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the topical skin composition comprises a non-soap surfactant in the range of 0.01 to 40% by weight based on the weight of the topical skin composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition comprises a preservative in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the weight of the topical skin composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises soap in the range of 0.01 to 40% by weight based on the weight of the topical skin composition.

10. Use of a PPAR activator and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for providing a glossy finish to the skin compared to a topical skin composition not containing a PPAR activator and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate, wherein the PPAR activator is 10-hydroxystearic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid or a combination thereof; and wherein the starch in the composition is in a natural and ungelatinized form.

11. Use of a PPAR activator and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for providing an even skin tone compared to a topical skin composition not containing a PPAR activator and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate, wherein the PPAR activator is 10-hydroxystearic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid or a combination thereof; and wherein the starch in the composition is in a natural and ungelatinized form.

12. Use of a PPAR activator and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for providing skin clarity compared to a topical skin composition not containing a PPAR activator and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate, wherein the PPAR activator is 10-hydroxystearic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid or a combination thereof; and wherein the starch in the composition is in a natural and ungelatinized form.

13. Use of a PPAR activator and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate in a topical skin composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for lightening skin spots compared to a topical skin composition not containing a PPAR activator and a starch-containing complex carbohydrate, wherein the PPAR activator is 10-hydroxystearic acid or 12-hydroxystearic acid or a combination thereof; and wherein the starch in the composition is in a natural and ungelatinized form.

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