A method for manufacturing a heat-pressed and ball-rolled cashmere blended fabric and the fabric itself.

Abstract

This invention discloses a method for manufacturing a calendered and ball-rolled cashmere blended fabric and the fabric itself. The method includes: cationic modification of polyacrylonitrile fibers; blending and interweaving the modified fibers with cashmere and wool to obtain a greige fabric; subjecting the greige fabric to ultrasonic keratinase treatment; crosslinking using fluorinated polyurethane phase change microcapsules, with a core material of n-octadecane / n-eicosane and a wall material containing perfluoroalkyl ethyl acrylate segments and end-capped waterborne isocyanates; and finally, mechanical raising, steam ball rolling, high-temperature calendering, and height-controlled shearing. This invention, through the deep synergy of specific differentiated pretreatment and specially formulated fluorinated microcapsules, not only achieves high-strength load-bearing capacity and long-lasting temperature regulation of the microcapsules, but also utilizes the high-temperature resistance and lubrication properties of the fluorinated microcapsules to promote tight entanglement and secure locking of fibers into balls during extreme processes, solving the technical problem of easy ball-rolling fabric shedding during washing.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile fabric manufacturing technology, and more specifically, to a method for manufacturing a heat-pressed and ball-rolled cashmere blended fabric and the fabric obtained therefrom. Background Technology

[0002] "Polishing and tumbling" is a special technique that has become popular in high-end woolen fabrics in recent years. It involves mechanically raising the fibers and steam tumbling to create a uniform, three-dimensional pom-pom structure on the fabric surface, followed by high-temperature calendering to give the fabric a unique velvety sheen. Fabrics with this style are visually full and three-dimensional, and have a smooth, supple feel.

[0003] However, traditional cashmere and wool blends face significant technical bottlenecks when creating tufted fabrics: First, cashmere and wool fibers are short and highly crimped, making them prone to pilling. However, these "tufts" are easily shed during subsequent wear and washing, resulting in fabric style degradation and weight reduction. Second, while adding synthetic fibers, such as acrylic or polyacrylonitrile fibers, can improve strength, the mixing of dissimilar fibers leads to uneven pilling, resulting in loose and inconsistent-sized tufts. Third, as consumers' demands for functionality increase, endowing such heavy-duty fabrics with phase change temperature regulation, water and oil resistance, and other multi-functional properties has become a trend. However, conventional functional finishing processes, such as microcapsule impregnation, often cannot withstand the subsequent high-temperature mechanical calendering and steam tufting processes, causing a large number of microcapsules to rupture or fall off, making it impossible to retain functionality for long. Summary of the Invention

[0004] The purpose of this invention is to address the problems in existing technologies, such as easy shedding of fuzz in ball-patterned fabrics, uneven balling of heterogeneous fibers, and poor mechanical processing resistance of finishing agents. This invention provides a method for manufacturing a heat-pressed ball-patterned cashmere blended fabric. Through a sophisticated combination of processes, this invention achieves deep synergy between each step, not only solidifying the unique ball-patterned appearance but also endowing the fabric with excellent and long-lasting temperature-regulating properties.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, the technical solution provided by the present invention is as follows.

[0006] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a heat-pressed and ball-rolled cashmere blended fabric, comprising the following steps: S1 Modification Treatment: Polyacrylonitrile fibers are placed in a 2-5% (w / w) aqueous solution of glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride at a bath ratio of 1:15 to 1:25. Sodium hydroxide is added to adjust the pH of the solution to 9-10. The reaction is carried out at a constant temperature of 60-70℃ for 40-60 minutes. After washing and drying, cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fibers are obtained. It should be noted that the selection of the above S1 modification treatment process parameters (concentration 2-5%, pH 9-10, temperature 60-70℃, time 40-60 minutes) aims to provide the optimal cationic charge substrate for subsequent microcapsule targeted anchoring by controlling the ring-opening and etherification grafting reactions of epoxy groups, while maximizing the preservation of fiber bulk strength. Modifier concentration (2-5%): This range ensures the formation of sufficient and uniform quaternary ammonium salt cationic sites on the fiber surface. If the grafting rate is below 2%, the grafting rate is low, and the surface positive charge density is insufficient, causing the microcapsules to be unable to achieve efficient targeted adsorption through electrostatic attraction, resulting in a significant decrease in microcapsule loading and wash fastness. If the rate is above 5%, excessive cationization will cause the fiber to feel hard and compacted, and may even cause uneven charge repulsion during subsequent processing. Reaction pH (9-10): Epichlorohydrin trimethylammonium chloride needs to be under specific weak alkaline conditions to efficiently open the ring and graft onto the active groups of the fiber. If the pH is below 9, the alkaline catalytic efficiency is insufficient, making ring opening difficult, resulting in an extremely slow and incomplete modification reaction. If the pH is above 10, the strong alkali at high temperatures will cause the cyano groups on the modified polyacrylonitrile macromolecular chain to hydrolyze or even break the main chain, causing irreversible yellowing and discoloration of the fiber and a precipitous drop in tensile strength. Temperature (60-70℃) and time (40-60 min): These thermodynamic conditions are the optimal range for balancing 'deep grafting rate' and 'prevention of fiber damage'. If the temperature is below 60℃ or the time is less than 40 minutes, the movement of macromolecular chain segments is restricted, and the modifier is difficult to diffuse effectively into the amorphous region of the fiber. The reaction only stays in the very shallow surface layer, resulting in uneven modification and poor bonding strength. If the temperature is above 70℃ or the time is longer than 60 minutes, it will drastically accelerate the side reaction of the modifier itself in water, causing hydrolysis and failure, reducing the effective grafting rate, and greatly aggravating the risk of thermo-oxidative aging and yellowing of the fiber in an alkaline environment.

[0007] S2, Blended Weaving: 15-25% cashmere fiber, 30-45% cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fiber, and 30-45% wool fiber (by weight percentage) are blended and processed through blending, carding, drawing, spinning, and automatic winding to obtain a single-strand blended yarn with a count of 11 / 1 to 13 / 1. This single-strand blended yarn is then used as both warp and weft yarns for weaving to obtain a grey fabric. It should be noted that the selection of the blending ratio and yarn count in S2 is crucial for constructing the perfect physical framework of the 'microcapsule high load' and 'three-dimensional anti-shedding ball' of this invention. Regarding the blending ratio (15-25% cashmere, 30-45% cationic modified polyacrylonitrile, 30-45% wool): This specific ratio breaks away from the arbitrariness of conventional blending. Among them, cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fiber (30-45%) serves as the 'functional skeleton' of this invention. If the proportion is less than 30%, not only will the overall strength of the yarn be insufficient to support the subsequent intense mechanical ball rolling, but more fatally, it will lead to a lack of total cationic sites in the fabric, insufficient targeted adsorption of microcapsules, and loss of the proper temperature regulation and three-proof functions. If it is higher than 45%, the synthetic fiber feel will be too heavy, resulting in a stiff hand feel, and the rolled-out balls will lack the natural curl and smoothness unique to animal fibers. The combination of cashmere fiber (15-25%) and wool fiber (30-45%) provides the best 'pilling and tangling' foundation. If the cashmere content is less than 15% or the wool content is higher than 45%, the fabric will lose its high-end smoothness and the itching sensation will increase. If the cashmere content is higher than 25% or the wool content is lower than 30%, due to the extremely fine and short cashmere fibers, the fabric will easily experience severe shedding during the ball rolling and washing processes, making it impossible to form a firm and non-shedding ball. Regarding the count of single-ply blended yarn (11 / 1 to 13 / 1): This yarn count range (11 to 13) provides the optimal number of cross-sectional fibers and free hairs for subsequent napping and pilling. If the count is below 11 / 1 (yarn is too coarse), the yarn is loosely cohesive, resulting in an overly thick and stiff finished fabric. Furthermore, the pills produced after mechanical napping are large, loose, and have a rough appearance. If the count is above 13 / 1 (yarn is too fine), the yarn volume and fullness are insufficient, making it impossible to release a sufficient density of free fibers during needle roller napping. This results in sparse and flat pills on the final fabric surface, and it is difficult to encapsulate and lock in a sufficient number of phase change microcapsules.

[0008] S3. Ultrasonic Enzyme Treatment: The entire fabric is immersed in a buffer solution containing keratinase at a pH of 7.5–8.5, and treated in an ultrasonic bath at a frequency of 25–30 kHz at 40–45 °C for 10–20 min. The mass concentration of keratinase in the buffer solution is 1–3 g / L. It should be noted that the selection of the above ultrasonic enzyme treatment parameters (frequency 25–30 kHz, temperature 40–45 °C, time 10–20 min) aims to achieve precise and appropriate etching of the scales on the surface of wool and cashmere without damaging the strength of the animal fiber itself. Specifically: Firstly, regarding the ultrasonic frequency, low-frequency ultrasound of 25–30 kHz produces the most suitable effect. If the frequency is below 25 kHz, the impact force of the microjets generated by the rupture of ultrasonic cavitation bubbles is too large, easily causing mechanical damage to the fiber cortex and even the medulla, leading to a sharp drop in tensile strength; if it is above 30 kHz, the cavitation energy is too weak, making it difficult to effectively assist keratinase in loosening and penetrating the hard scale layer. Secondly, regarding temperature, 40–45°C is the optimal activity range for the keratinase used to catalyze the cleavage of the protein network structure on the fiber surface. Below 40°C, the enzymatic reaction is slow, resulting in extremely low peeling efficiency; above 45°C, irreversible thermal denaturation and inactivation of the enzyme protein will occur, and the inherent natural luster of wool and cashmere will also be destroyed. Thirdly, regarding processing time, 10–20 minutes is just right. If the time is less than 10 minutes, the scale layer will not be completely peeled off, and sufficient internal polar reaction sites (such as amino and carboxyl groups) will not be exposed, resulting in insufficient anchoring force during the subsequent cross-linking of S4 microcapsules; if it is longer than 20 minutes, excessive hydrolysis and dissolution of the fiber body will occur, resulting in severe weight loss of the fabric, a thin hand feel, and the fiber will break extensively in the subsequent pilling and tumbling process due to excessive fragility. This invention strictly controls the above range, successfully constructing a rough structure on the surface of animal fibers that retains both strength and rich microgrooves, providing a perfect physical and chemical base for the high-strength load of the subsequent microcapsules.

[0009] S4. Microcapsule Crosslinking Finishing: The fabric treated with ultrasonic enzymes is completely immersed in the crosslinking finishing solution for a two-dip, two-nip treatment with a water-pinching rate of 65-75%, followed by baking and setting at 140-150℃ for 3-5 minutes. The crosslinking finishing solution contains fluorinated polyurethane phase change microcapsules at a mass concentration of 15-20 g / L and end-capped aqueous isocyanate at a mass concentration of 5-8 g / L. The core material of the fluorinated polyurethane phase change microcapsules is n-octadecane or n-eicosane, and the wall material is polyurethane containing perfluoroalkyl ethyl acrylate segments. It should be noted that the selection of various formulations and process parameters in the above-mentioned S4 microcapsule crosslinking finishing is the decisive technical feature of this invention, which takes into account the 'high enthalpy temperature regulation function', 'durable wash fastness', and 'subsequent damage-free ball rolling'. The specific mechanism and critical significance of the parameters are as follows: Regarding the finishing solution formulation (microcapsules 15-20 g / L, end-capped isocyanate 5-8 g / L): This concentration ratio achieves the best balance between functional load and fabric hand feel. If the microcapsule concentration is below 15 g / L, the fabric's phase change temperature regulation enthalpy is too low, failing to provide significant microclimate regulation, and the fluorinated segments on the surface are insufficient to provide adequate lubrication and water repellency in the S5 process. If it is above 20 g / L, it not only wastes materials but also causes microcapsules to aggregate in the fiber gaps, severely damaging the original smooth feel of cashmere. The amount of end-capped waterborne isocyanate (5-8 g / L) is just right to form a dense three-dimensional cross-linked network with the polar groups (amino and carboxyl groups) exposed by the S3 enzyme treatment and the microcapsule wall material. If it is below 5 g / L, the cross-linking density is insufficient, and the microcapsules have extremely poor wash fastness; if it is above 8 g / L, excessive cross-linking and curing will cause the fabric surface to become stiff like plastic, resulting in a loss of wearing comfort. Regarding the water-pinching rate (65-75%): Two dips and two nips combined with a 65-75% liquid-holding rate ensure that the microcapsule working solution fully penetrates into the inner core layer of the blended yarn. If the water roll-out rate is below 65%, the liquid only remains on the surface of the fabric, and the internal fibers cannot obtain fluorinated lubrication and protection. If it is above 75%, a severe 'migration phenomenon' will occur during the subsequent drying process, causing the crosslinking agent and microcapsules to accumulate on the surface as the water evaporates, forming a surface skin or even white spots, affecting the fabric's appearance and deep strength. Regarding the baking and setting conditions (140-150℃, 3-5min): These thermodynamic conditions are specifically designed for the desealing reaction of 'end-capped' waterborne isocyanates. If the temperature is below 140℃ or the time is less than 3min, the end-capping groups of the crosslinking agent cannot be effectively dissociated, the isocyanate ions (-NCO) cannot be released, the chemical bonding fails, and the microcapsules easily fall off during subsequent washing. If the temperature is above 150℃ or the time is longer than 5min, it will not only cause yellowing and heat damage to animal fibers (wool, cashmere), but also cause premature thermal aging of the fluorinated polyurethane wall material of the microcapsules, weakening its resistance to S5 extreme high-temperature calendering (60-100℃).Regarding the selection of specific core and wall materials: the core material is selected from n-octadecane or n-eicosane, whose phase change temperature range (28-36℃) perfectly matches the comfortable temperature of human skin. The wall material is limited to 'polyurethane containing perfluoroalkyl ethyl acrylate segments', which is the innovation of this invention: conventional polyurethane microcapsules are extremely prone to rupture under the high temperature of 100℃ and mechanical friction in S5, but after introducing perfluoroalkyl groups, the extremely low surface energy and excellent thermal stability of fluorine atoms give the fabric excellent waterproof and oil-repellent properties, protect the cashmere fibers from breaking when they are violently rubbed into balls, and ultimately lock in the complete phase change temperature regulation function.

[0010] S5. Finishing with heat treatment and ball rolling: The shaped greige fabric undergoes mechanical napping; then it is fed into a ball rolling machine and balled for 20-30 minutes under saturated steam at 0.2-0.4 MPa; finally, the fabric is heat-treated at 60-100℃ at a speed of 20-30 m / min, and the nap is sheared at a fixed height to obtain the finished fabric. It should be noted that regarding the ball rolling parameters (0.2-0.4 MPa saturated steam, 20-30 minutes): This saturated steam condition can penetrate the dense greige fabric skeleton and, with the lubrication and synergy of fluorinated polyurethane, impart optimal hydrothermal plasticity to the fibers. If the steam pressure is lower than 0.2 MPa or the time is shorter than 20 minutes, the heat and moisture penetration is insufficient, and the fibers cannot soften and slide sufficiently, resulting in loose, shrunken, and unevenly sized balls; if the pressure is higher than 0.4 MPa or the time is longer than 30 minutes, excessive heat and moisture will cause excessive felting of the animal fibers, forming dead balls, and even causing a large number of anchored microcapsules to be peeled off due to intense friction. Regarding the heat treatment parameters (60–100°C, 20–30 m / min): This high temperature is the core 'locking' condition of this invention. Conventional polyurethane microcapsules will rupture and fail at this temperature, but this invention, thanks to the excellent thermal stability provided by the 'perfluoroalkyl ethyl acrylate segment' introduced in S4, not only keeps the microcapsules intact, but also utilizes the high temperature of 60–100°C to instantly trigger the secondary thermoplastic melting and curing of the crosslinking agent and the fluorinated polyurethane wall material. Combined with a heat treatment speed of 20–30 m / min, a tough 'locking film' is formed precisely at the root of the entangled fibers. If the temperature is too low or the speed is too high (>30 m / min), the thermoplastic curing will be incomplete, the fiber roots will not be welded shut, and the lint balls will easily fall off during daily washing; if the temperature is higher than 100°C or the speed is too slow (<20 m / min), it will exceed the tolerance limit of the fluorinated materials and cashmere fibers, leading to yellowing of the fabric, carbonization of the microcapsules, and strong brittleness of the fabric surface.

[0011] As a preferred technical solution, in step S2, the draft ratio of the running spindle spinning is 1.3 to 1.5 times, the relative humidity of the spinning environment is controlled at 60 to 70%, and the temperature is controlled at 30 to 35°C. Regarding the limitations of the running spindle spinning process parameters in S2, the draft ratio (1.3 to 1.5 times): If the draft ratio is less than 1.3 times, the yarn structure is too loose. Although it is very easy to pill, the strength of the single yarn is insufficient to withstand the tension of the spinning machine, making it very easy to break, and the dimensional stability of the finished fabric is extremely poor. If the draft ratio is greater than 1.5 times, the fibers inside the yarn are too tightly bound, especially the cashmere / wool with scale grooves and the modified polyacrylonitrile are interlocked. As a result, in the mechanical pilling process of S5, the pilling needles cannot gently pick the fibers out of the surface. Forced pilling will only break the fibers, resulting in sparse pilling and a large number of broken fibers in the final fabric. Regarding the spinning environment (relative humidity 60-70%, temperature 30-35℃): Modified polyacrylonitrile fibers are highly prone to static electricity, while wool / cashmere requires suitable humidity to maintain its flexibility. If the relative humidity is below 60% or the temperature is below 30℃, the workshop is too dry, and a large accumulation of static electricity will cause the fibers to repel each other and wrap around the rollers, damaging the uniformity of the blend. If the relative humidity is above 70% or the temperature is above 35℃, the excessive moisture on the fiber surface will cause a sticky feeling, hindering fiber slippage during the drafting process, resulting in uneven distribution and large or small patches of defects on the surface of the final fabric.

[0012] As a preferred technical solution, in step S2, the interlacing weaving is carried out using a textile machine, wherein the total number of warp threads on the textile machine is 5500-5800, and the weft density is 260-270 threads / 10cm. Regarding the limitations on the total warp count and weft density parameters mentioned above, if the total warp count is less than 5500 or the weft density is less than 260 warp / 10cm, the fabric interweaving structure will be too loose. In the subsequent intense mechanical pilling and steam balling process at 0.2-0.4MPa, the fibers are easily overstretched or pulled out, resulting in fabric deformation, a significant decrease in weight, and the formed fuzz balls are too large and loose, making them easy to fall off during washing. Conversely, if the total warp count is greater than 5800 or the weft density is greater than 270 warp / 10cm, the fabric structure will be too tight and stiff, with the fibers inside the yarn tightly bound together, making subsequent mechanical pilling difficult. The fabric surface will not be able to release a sufficient number and length of free fibers to participate in the balling and interweaving. Ultimately, not only will the microcapsules be unable to penetrate into the yarn, but the balls on the fabric surface will also be sparse and the hand feel will be stiff. By precisely controlling the warp and weft density within the aforementioned range, the fabric is guaranteed to have the physical strength to withstand multiple subsequent impregnations and high-temperature processing, while also having an appropriate micro-porosity and fiber mobility allowance. This allows the fibers to slide smoothly and interweave into a uniform and full spherical structure under the lubrication of fluorinated polyurethane.

[0013] As a preferred technical solution, a pre-treatment process of washing and shrinking is included before step S3. In the shrinking process, the pH of the shrinking solution is 7-8, and the shrinking temperature is 40-50℃. Regarding the selection of the above washing and shrinking pre-treatment parameters, controlling the pH at 7-8 and the temperature at 40-50℃ can fully stimulate the directional friction effect of animal fiber scales without damaging the strength of the cashmere and wool fibers. A high shrinkage rate of 50-60% in the length direction causes the warp and weft yarns on the fabric surface to interlock extremely tightly. If the shrinkage rate is less than 50%, the base fabric structure is loose, and the fibers are easily 'pulled up by the roots' during subsequent pilling and tufting, resulting in severe shedding and loss of functional microcapsules. If the shrinkage rate is greater than 60%, excessive felting occurs, the fabric surface becomes stiff and loses its hand feel and elasticity, and there is insufficient free space for subsequent deep penetration of keratinase and mechanical pilling.

[0014] As a preferred technical solution, in step S5, the mechanical raising process involves using a 30 / 34 gauge raising needle cloth to raise both sides of the fabric 6-10 times each at room temperature. Using a 30 / 34 gauge raising needle cloth and raising both sides 6-10 times each is to precisely control the length and density of the surface hairs involved in the pilling. The fineness of this type of needle cloth and the number of raising cycles are just right to gently pick out the modified polyacrylonitrile and animal fibers inside the yarn, forming a rich and uniformly long nap. If the number of raising cycles is less than 6, the amount of free surface hairs is insufficient, and fewer fibers participate in entanglement, resulting in sparse and shrunken pills formed subsequently. If the number of raising cycles exceeds 10 or an excessively coarse needle cloth is used, it will excessively damage the core structure of the yarn, leading to a decrease in the tensile strength of the fabric. Furthermore, the short fibers that are roughly torn will form free 'dead balls' during pilling, which are easily detached during daily washing.

[0015] As a preferred technical solution, in step S5, the shearing height of the fixed-height shearing is 3-5mm, and the shearing is repeated 3-5 times in the order of reverse side first and then front side. Controlling the fixed-height shearing height to 3-5mm and using a reverse-then-front cyclic shearing process is key to ensuring the final fuzz ball has a uniform size and a round, three-dimensional appearance. A fuzz height of 3-5mm ensures that the fibers have sufficient length to entangle and form balls under the lubrication of steam and fluorinated microcapsules, while also preventing excessively long fibers from causing adjacent fuzz balls to stick together. If the shearing height is less than 3mm, the fibers are too short to effectively intertwine and knot, resulting in only small and stiff granules; if it is greater than 5mm, the formed fuzz balls are too large, loose, and have a messy appearance. Using a reverse-then-front cyclic shearing process for 3-5 times effectively eliminates the uneven fuzz length caused by the release of internal stress in the fabric during multiple mechanical processing, ensuring a smooth and translucent fabric surface after heat treatment.

[0016] Secondly, the present invention also provides a heat-pressed and ball-rolled cashmere blended fabric prepared according to a manufacturing method.

[0017] As a preferred technical solution, the fabric has a warp density of 320-420 threads / 10cm, a weft density of 260-270 threads / 10cm, and a unit area mass of 420-500g / m². 2 The aforementioned limits on the warp and weft density and weight of the finished fabric represent the final structural embodiment of the synergistic effect of chemical treatment and physical-mechanical processes described in this application. The unit area mass is 420–500 g / m². 2 The high warp density (320-420 threads / 10cm) structure gives the fabric a crisp framework and excellent windproof and warmth retention. If the weight and density are below the lower limit mentioned above, the fabric structure is too thin and cannot support the full and three-dimensional heavy-duty tufted appearance. In addition, the yarn's 'locking and holding power' at the fiber root is insufficient, which can easily lead to pilling. If the weight and density are above the upper limit mentioned above, the fabric feels too heavy, reducing the smoothness and comfort of wearing it. Furthermore, the overly dense fiber network will hinder the uniform distribution of fluorine phase change microcapsules, affecting the fabric's final long-lasting temperature regulation performance.

[0018] The advantages and beneficial effects of this invention are as follows: This invention is not a simple superposition of existing conventional textile processes, but rather, through the high coupling of upstream and downstream processes and the targeted design of materials, it produces unexpected synergistic effects, specifically reflected in the following three dimensions: Synergy of S1 and S3: In blended fabrics, this invention specifically applies S1 cationization treatment only to polyacrylonitrile fibers before weaving, while preserving the original state of wool and cashmere. After the fabric is made, S3 keratinase is used to specifically etch the surface of wool and cashmere fibers under ultrasonic assistance. This combination of "positive and negative, addition and subtraction" creates a heterogeneous surface at the microscopic level within the fabric: the modified polyacrylonitrile fiber surface is enriched with cations and smooth, while the animal fiber surface has scales peeled off and has rough grooves. This differentiated treatment breaks the conventional uniformity of blended fabrics, laying a crucial physical and charge foundation for subsequent microcapsule anchoring and mechanical ball rolling.

[0019] Synergy between pretreatment and S4 microcapsule finishing: The "fluorinated polyurethane phase change microcapsules" introduced in step S4 possess unique dual properties. On one hand, due to the differentiated pretreatments in S1 and S3, the microcapsules, under the cross-linking effect of end-capped aqueous isocyanate, can preferentially and firmly target and adhere to the cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fibers through electrostatic attraction; simultaneously, the etched and descaled wool and cashmere provide a large number of polar reaction sites (amino and carboxyl groups), enabling deep chemical bonding of the cross-linking agent. This synergy between physical intercalation and chemical cross-linking greatly enhances the load-bearing strength of the microcapsules. More importantly, the fluorinated polyurethane wall material has excellent thermal stability and low surface energy, perfectly resisting the high-temperature calendering of 60–100°C in subsequent S5 without cracking, thus locking in the temperature-regulating function of the phase change core material (n-octadecane / n-eicosane).

[0020] The synergy between S4 material and S5 mechanical process: This is the core mechanism by which the invention achieves the "non-shedding ball-like style". In traditional ball-like processes, fibers experience harsh friction, leading to breakage and shedding. In this invention, the "fluorinated polyurethane" adhering to the fiber surface after S4 treatment exhibits an extremely low coefficient of surface friction due to its fluorinated segments. In the 0.2–0.4 MPa saturated steam of the S5 ball-like machine, this fluorinated surface layer acts as an excellent "high-temperature interface lubricant," promoting the smooth sliding, interweaving, and entanglement of wool, cashmere, and modified polyacrylonitrile fibers into tightly packed, uniformly sized balls without fiber breakage. Subsequently, during the high-temperature calendering process at 60–100°C, the crosslinking agent and fluorinated polyurethane undergo secondary film formation and thermoplastic curing, firmly "locking" the root of the entangled fibers to the yarn body. Therefore, the perfect coupling of materials (fluorinated polyurethane) and machinery (steam + high-temperature calendering) gives the final fabric a full and three-dimensional ball-shaped appearance, water and oil repellency, and excellent anti-shedding and washing durability. Detailed Implementation

[0021] To make the above-mentioned objectives, features, and advantages of this application more apparent and understandable, the specific embodiments of this application are described in detail below. It is to be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of this application and not intended to limit it. All other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments in this application without inventive effort are within the scope of protection of this application.

[0022] The terms “comprising” and “having”, and any variations thereof, used in this application are intended to cover non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a process, method, system, product, or apparatus that includes a series of steps or units is not limited to the steps or units listed, but may optionally include steps or units not listed, or may optionally include other steps or units inherent to such process, method, product, or apparatus.

[0023] In this document, the term "embodiment" means that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in connection with an embodiment may be included in at least one embodiment of this application. The appearance of this phrase in various places throughout the specification does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, nor is it a separate or alternative embodiment mutually exclusive with other embodiments. It will be explicitly or implicitly understood by those skilled in the art that the embodiments described herein can be combined with other embodiments.

[0024] It should be noted that the "modified polyacrylonitrile fiber" mentioned in this article refers to fiber obtained by modifying polyacrylonitrile. In order to better achieve the purpose of the present invention, in some preferred embodiments, the modified polyacrylonitrile fiber can be a similar product such as Persian fiber commercially available in the textile industry.

[0025] Example 1 A method for manufacturing a heat-pressed and ball-rolled cashmere blended fabric includes the following steps: S1. Modification treatment: Polyacrylonitrile fibers were placed in a 3.5% aqueous solution of glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride at a bath ratio of 1:20. Sodium hydroxide was added to adjust the pH to 9.5. The reaction was carried out at a constant temperature of 65℃ for 50 minutes. After washing with water and drying, cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fibers were obtained.

[0026] S2. Blended Weaving: 20% cashmere fiber, 40% cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fiber, and 40% wool fiber are mixed, combed, drawn, and spun (draft ratio 1.4, relative humidity 65%, temperature 32℃) to obtain a 12 / 1 metric count single-ply blended yarn. This yarn is then interwoven on a textile machine (total warp count 5650, weft density 265 warp ends / 10cm) to obtain the grey fabric.

[0027] S3. Ultrasonic Enzyme Treatment: After washing and shrinking the fabric (pH=7.5, 45℃), immerse it completely in a buffer solution containing 2g / L keratinase (pH=8.0) and treat it in a 28kHz ultrasonic bath at 42℃ for 15min.

[0028] S4. Microcapsule crosslinking finishing: The entire fabric is immersed in a finishing solution containing 18 g / L of fluorinated polyurethane phase change microcapsules (core material is n-octadecane, wall material contains perfluoroalkyl ethyl acrylate segments) and 6 g / L of end-capped aqueous isocyanate, and then subjected to two dips and two nips (70% water roll-off rate), and baked at 145℃ for 4 min to set.

[0029] S5. Finishing with ironing and ball rolling: Use No. 30 raising needle cloth to raise the nap 8 times on each side at room temperature; feed it into the ball rolling machine and roll it for 25 minutes under saturated steam at 0.3MPa; iron it at 90℃ and a speed of 25m / min; finally, cut the nap 4mm at a fixed height, and repeat the cutting cycle 4 times from the reverse side to the forward side to obtain the finished fabric.

[0030] Example 2 The fabric is manufactured according to the method of Example 1, except that the lower limits of all process parameters are used: In S1, the bath ratio is 1:15, the concentration of glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride is 2%, the pH is 9, and the reaction is carried out at 60℃ for 40 min.

[0031] The blending ratio of S2 is 15% cashmere, 40% cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fiber, and 45% wool.

[0032] The ultrasonic frequency in S3 is 25 kHz, and the enzyme concentration is 1 g / L.

[0033] S4 contains microcapsules with a concentration of 15 g / L, a water content of 65%, and is baked at 140℃ for 3 min.

[0034] S5 is subjected to 0.2MPa steam rolling for 20 minutes, 60℃ heat treatment, and hair trimming height of 3mm.

[0035] Example 3 The fabric is manufactured according to the method of Example 1, except that the upper limits of each process parameter are used: In S1, the bath ratio is 1:25, the concentration of glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride is 5%, the pH is 10, and the reaction is carried out at 70℃ for 60 min.

[0036] The blending ratio of S2 is 25% cashmere, 45% cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fiber, and 30% wool.

[0037] The ultrasonic frequency in S3 is 30kHz, and the enzyme concentration is 3g / L.

[0038] S4 contains microcapsules with a concentration of 20 g / L, a water content of 75%, and is baked at 150°C for 5 min.

[0039] S5 is subjected to 0.4MPa steam rolling for 30 minutes, 100℃ heat treatment, and hair trimming height of 5mm.

[0040] Comparative Example 1 (without S1 cation modification) The process flow and parameters are the same as in Example 1, except that step S1 is omitted and unmodified ordinary polyacrylonitrile fibers are directly used for blending in step S2.

[0041] Comparative Example 2 (without S3 sonication enzyme treatment) The process flow and parameters are the same as in Example 1, except that step S3 is omitted and the shrunken fabric directly enters step S4 for microcapsule crosslinking finishing.

[0042] Comparative Example 3 (Microcapsule wall material is fluorine-free) The process flow and parameters are the same as in Example 1, except that the phase change microcapsules used in step S4 are ordinary polyurethane wall material microcapsules (the wall material does not contain perfluoroalkyl ethyl acrylate segments).

[0043] Performance testing verification The finished fabrics obtained in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were subjected to physical and functional tests. The test results are shown in the table below: Uniformity of rolling ball appearance Excellent, the sphere is round and firm. good excellent Poor quality, the spheres are loose and uneven. Generally, the surface is rough and messy. Good, but the sphere is slightly rough. Retention rate of rolling balls after washing (%) *Note 1 96.5 94.2 95.8 72.1 81.3 88.5 Phase change temperature regulation enthalpy (J / g) 14.2 12.8 15.6 7.5 9.2 3.4*Note 2 Waterproof rating after 20 washes Level 4 Level 4 Level 4-5 Level 2 Level 3 Level 0 Note 1: After 20 consecutive standard machine washes, the percentage of intact rolling balls retained per unit area is counted under a microscope.

[0044] Note 2: The extremely low temperature-controlled enthalpy of Comparative Example 3 confirms that due to the lack of heat-resistant protection from fluorine-containing segments, ordinary microcapsules rupture during hot stamping and ball rolling processes at temperatures above 90°C, resulting in severe loss of core material.

[0045] Results analysis: As can be seen from the comparison, the data of Examples 1-3 demonstrate excellent ball fastness, long-lasting temperature regulation capability, and three-proof effect.

[0046] In contrast, Comparative Example 1 lacked S1 cation modification, resulting in the absence of heterogeneous charge attraction between fibers. This made it difficult for the microcapsules to be firmly loaded, leading to poor temperature regulation and waterproofing effects. Furthermore, the friction coefficient of the heterogeneous fibers was not controlled, causing the rolling balls to become loose and easily fall off.

[0047] Comparative Example 2 lacked enzyme treatment, resulting in a lack of reactive groups and anchoring grooves on the surface of animal fibers, which led to a significant decrease in wash fastness.

[0048] Comparative Example 3 confirms the "synergy" between S4 and S5 in the present invention. When the fluorinated segments of the microcapsules are removed, the microcapsules not only cannot withstand the high-temperature mechanical damage of S5, causing the temperature regulation function to fail and the enthalpy value to drop to 3.4 J / g, but also suffer severe fiber friction damage during the ball rolling process due to the loss of the "high-temperature interface lubricant" effect of the fluorinated polyurethane, making it prone to shedding during washing. The embodiments described above are merely illustrative of several implementations of the present invention, and while the descriptions are relatively specific and detailed, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention patent. It should be noted that those skilled in the art can make various modifications and improvements without departing from the concept of the present invention, and these all fall within the protection scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of this invention patent should be determined by the appended claims.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing a heat-pressed and ball-rolled cashmere blended fabric, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Modification treatment: Polyacrylonitrile fibers are placed in an aqueous solution of 2-5% glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride at a bath ratio of 1:15 to 1:

25. Sodium hydroxide is added to adjust the pH of the solution to 9-10. The reaction is carried out at a constant temperature of 60-70℃ for 40-60 minutes. After washing with water and drying, cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fibers are obtained. S2. Blended weaving: 15-25% cashmere fiber, 30-45% of the cationic modified polyacrylonitrile fiber and 30-45% wool fiber by weight percentage are blended, combed, drawn, spun and automatically wound to obtain a single-ply blended yarn with a count of 11 / 1 to 13 / 1. The single-ply blended yarn is then used as the warp and weft yarns for interlacing and weaving to obtain a grey fabric. S3. Ultrasonic enzyme treatment: The entire fabric is immersed in a buffer solution containing keratinase with a pH of 7.5-8.5, and treated in an ultrasonic bath at a frequency of 25-30 kHz at 40-45°C for 10-20 min. The mass concentration of keratinase in the buffer solution is 1-3 g / L. S4. Microcapsule Crosslinking Finishing: The fabric treated with ultrasonic enzymes is completely immersed in the crosslinking finishing solution for a two-dip and two-nip process with a water-pinching rate of 65-75%, followed by baking and setting at 140-150℃ for 3-5 minutes; the crosslinking finishing solution contains fluorinated polyurethane phase change microcapsules at a mass concentration of 15-20 g / L and end-capped aqueous isocyanate at a mass concentration of 5-8 g / L; the core material of the fluorinated polyurethane phase change microcapsules is n-octadecane or n-eicosane, and the wall material is polyurethane containing perfluoroalkyl ethyl acrylate segments; S5. Heat treatment and ball rolling: The shaped fabric is mechanically raised; then it is fed into a ball rolling machine and balled for 20 to 30 minutes under the condition of passing 0.2 to 0.4 MPa saturated steam; finally, the fabric is heat treated at 60 to 100℃ at a speed of 20 to 30 m / min and the pile is sheared at a fixed height to obtain the finished fabric.

2. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S2, the draft ratio of the spinning process is 1.3 to 1.5 times, the relative humidity of the spinning environment is controlled at 60 to 70%, and the temperature is controlled at 30 to 35°C.

3. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S2, the interlacing weaving is carried out using a textile machine, the total number of warp threads on the textile machine is 5500-5800, and the weft density is 260-270 threads / 10cm.

4. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: Before step S3, there are also pretreatment steps of washing and shrinking wool, wherein the pH of the shrinking solution in the shrinking step is 7-8 and the shrinking temperature is 40-50℃.

5. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S5, the mechanical napping process involves using 30 / 34 napping needle cloth to perform 6 to 10 napping cycles on both sides of the fabric at room temperature.

6. The manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S5, the shearing height of the fixed-height shearing is 3-5mm, and the shearing is repeated 3-5 times in the order of first the reverse side and then the front side.

7. A heat-pressed and ball-rolled cashmere blended fabric prepared by the manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

8. The heat-pressed and ball-rolled cashmere blend fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that: The fabric has a warp density of 320-420 threads / 10cm, a weft density of 260-270 threads / 10cm, and a unit area mass of 420-500g / m². 2 .