A skin feel optimized composition based on rheology-texture co-regulation, a cream and a preparation method thereof
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202610479977.9
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-04-13
- Publication Date
- 2026-08-21
AI Technical Summary
然而,目前市面上多数面霜产品在质地设计与肤感表现方面仍存在明显不足:部分产品为追求滋润感而质地过于厚重,导致取用困难、涂抹阻力大;另一些产品则因结构设计不合理,在使用后出现吸收性差、黏腻残留或膏体稳定性不佳等问题,严重影响使用体验
1.本发明采用特定用量的酵母菌/大米发酵产物滤液、燕窝酸脂质体与乙酰化透明质酸钠,协同作用,面霜体系中构建“结构增强-润滑增塑-促渗缓释”多重协同网络,在流变学与质构层面进行肤感调控,实现了质地与肤感的理想平衡,解决了传统面霜配方中质地与肤感难以兼顾的技术矛盾。具体地:乙酰化透明质酸钠:其长链大分子在水相中形成贯穿的三维网络结构,通过与配方中脂肪醇、乳化剂的物理缠结与氢键作用,显著提升了体系的储能模量(G')和硬度,为膏体提供了坚实的骨架。这使得产品在静置时形态稳定(高G'),在使用时则通过可逆的“剪切变稀”行为,实现从膏体到液体的顺滑转变。酵母菌/大米发酵产物滤液:其中富含的小分子多糖与多肽,有效降低了体系的内摩擦系数和内聚性。这一方面极大地提升了涂抹顺滑度,另一方面使膏体在接触皮肤时更易软化、分散,避免了纯由高分子聚合物构建的刚性结构所带来的蜡感和难推感,促进了功效成分的释放,对应了更快的吸收速度。燕窝酸脂质体:脂质体以其与皮肤角质层相似的磷脂双分子层结构,不仅极大地促进了功效成分的透皮吸收,其柔性的微球结构本身也在配方中起到辅助稳定和调节流变的作用。同时,脂质体能在皮肤表面形成一层透气且非封闭性的保湿膜,并通过缓释机制持续输送养分,从而贡献了卓越的滋润持久性和低粘腻感。
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Figure CN122604664A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, and in particular to a skin-feel-optimized face cream based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation. Background Technology
[0002] With the rapid development of the cosmetics industry and the continuous improvement of consumer demands, creams and lotions are no longer limited to achieving basic skincare functions, but are increasingly focusing on the sensory experience during use. The texture and feel of a product have become key factors influencing consumer purchasing decisions and product market competitiveness. However, most face creams on the market still have significant shortcomings in texture design and skin feel: some products, in pursuit of moisturizing, have excessively thick textures, making them difficult to apply and causing significant resistance; others, due to unreasonable structural design, suffer from poor absorption, sticky residue, or poor stability after use, severely impacting the user experience.
[0003] In existing technologies, the evaluation of product texture and skin feel mainly relies on human sensory evaluation. Although this method can directly reflect the user's subjective feelings, it is significantly affected by factors such as individual differences, environmental conditions, and psychological state, making it difficult to form a unified and objective evaluation standard. Furthermore, it cannot reveal the intrinsic relationship between skin feel and formula structure, thus making it difficult to systematically guide the scientific optimization of formulas.
[0004] In recent years, instrumental analysis methods such as rheology and texture science have been gradually introduced into the cosmetics field, providing quantitative means for product texture analysis. However, there is a significant disconnect between instrumental evaluation and sensory experience. Existing research mostly focuses on measuring single parameters, such as rheological parameters like viscosity and modulus, or textural parameters like hardness and adhesion, without establishing an effective correlation between these parameters and sensory attributes such as smoothness and thickness during application. This disconnect makes it difficult to directly use instrumental test results for precise formulation optimization and also fails to fully realize the potential value of instrumental measurements in predicting product user experience.
[0005] Regarding the application of active ingredients, while existing formulations commonly use high-molecular polymers and emulsifiers to adjust product texture, they still have significant limitations. For example, high-molecular materials tend to produce a sticky feeling, traditional emulsification systems lack the ability to finely control the skin feel, and the potential of bioactive natural ingredients in improving product texture has not yet been fully explored. These factors all limit the development of high-quality skin-feel face creams.
[0006] Currently, there is no established system for designing face cream formulations based on the synergistic regulation of rheology and texture, making it difficult to simultaneously optimize product texture and user experience. Particularly, there are significant shortcomings in research on the combined application of rice fermentation broth and sialic acid liposomes. Furthermore, there is a lack of effective systematic correlation between instrumental test results and sensory experience. These issues collectively hinder the development of high-quality face cream products. Therefore, the industry urgently needs a face cream formulation design method based on the synergistic regulation of rheology and texture to solve the problems existing in the texture and feel of current products, achieving an ideal balance between smooth application, rapid absorption, and long-lasting hydration.
[0007] Existing face cream products generally struggle to overcome the inherent contradiction between texture and skin feel. Some formulas, in pursuit of moisturizing effects or system stability, rely excessively on high-molecular polymers or high-melting-point wax esters, resulting in products that are too thick and hard, difficult to apply, and offer significant resistance during spread, leading to a "waxy" or "sticky" feeling. Conversely, other products aiming for a refreshing feel suffer from insufficient structural strength, resulting in a loose, poorly cohesive texture, weak residue after absorption, and insufficient moisturizing longevity. Furthermore, a mismatch between the formula's structural design and the release requirements of active ingredients means that even with the addition of highly effective ingredients, low transdermal absorption efficiency prevents them from achieving their intended effects.
[0008] Chinese patent CN116370388B discloses a composition, microemulsion, preparation method, and application of whitening and anti-wrinkle effects. The composition includes succinic acid, sialic acid, and yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate. This invention also utilizes microemulsion technology to encapsulate the above composition to obtain a microemulsion product, which improves the stability of the composition, makes it easily absorbed, and exhibits significant anti-wrinkle and whitening effects with a short timeframe. It can be used to prepare anti-wrinkle face creams, eye creams, neck creams, etc. However, this invention focuses on anti-aging and does not improve skin feel.
[0009] Currently, commonly used active ingredients for improving skin feel mainly include hyaluronic acid, collagen, and plant extracts. Although these ingredients have certain effects in moisturizing and anti-aging, they have the following limitations in regulating texture and skin feel: While high molecular weight polymers can enhance the viscosity and moisturizing properties of the system, excessive use can easily lead to a sticky feeling, and their ability to regulate the rheological structure of the system is limited; although naturally fermented ingredients have good biological activity, their potential for regulation at the rheology-texture level has not yet been fully explored. Summary of the Invention
[0010] The purpose of this invention is to solve at least one of the above-mentioned problems by providing a skin-feel-optimized composition, face cream, and preparation method thereof based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation. By combining yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate, a multi-synergistic network of "structure enhancement, lubrication and plasticization, and penetration-promoting and sustained release" is constructed in the face cream system, thereby achieving skin-feel regulation at the rheological and textural levels.
[0011] The objective of this invention can be achieved through the following technical solution: a skin-feel-optimized composition based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation, the composition comprising yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of (0.1-5):(0.01-2):(0.1-5).
[0012] Furthermore, the mass ratio of the yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate is (0.5-3):(0.25-1):(0.25-1).
[0013] The present invention also provides a skin-feel-optimized face cream based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation, comprising a base excipient and an active ingredient, wherein the active ingredient comprises the skin-feel-optimized composition based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation.
[0014] Furthermore, the mass percentage content of the active ingredient in the face cream is 0.21-12%.
[0015] Furthermore, the mass percentage content of the active ingredient in the face cream is 1-5%.
[0016] Furthermore, the matrix excipients are selected from any one or more of solvents, humectants, esterifying agents, thickeners, emulsifiers, pH adjusters, fragrances, or preservatives.
[0017] Furthermore, the moisturizer is selected from one or more of glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, butylene glycol, trehalose, xylitol, and sodium hyaluronate; The esterifying agent is selected from one or more of the following: isohexadecane, isopropyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, polymethylsilsesquioxane, vinyldimethylsiloxane, and tocopheryl acetate. The thickener is selected from one or more of sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinking polymers; The emulsifier is selected from one or more of PEG-100 stearate, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan oleate, phytosterol / behenol / octyldecyl lauroyl glutamate, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenol, and cetearyl alcohol. The pH adjuster is selected from one or more of arginine and citric acid; The fragrance agent is selected from (daily-use) fragrances; The preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.
[0018] Furthermore, the face cream comprises the following components by weight percentage: Component A: Water to 100 Glycerin 5~15; Butanediol 1~3; 1,2-Hexanediol 1~3; Xylitol 0.1~2; Trehalose 0.1~2; Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0.1~1; Phase B: Isohexadecane 3~6; Isopropyl isostearate 1-3; Caprylic / capric triglyceride 0.1~2; Shea butter esters 0.1~2; 1-3% polydimethylsiloxane; Vinyl dimethylsiloxane 1~3; Tocopherol acetate 0.1~1; PEG-100 stearate 0.1~1; Cetearyl glucoside 0.1~1; Sorbitan oleate 0.1~1; Phytosterols / behenols / octyldecyl lauroyl glutamate 0.1~2; Stearyl alcohol 1~3; Cetyl alcohol 1~3; Behenyl alcohol 0.1~1; Phase C: Citric acid 0.01~1; Phase D: (Daily use) Fragrance 0.01~1; Phenoxyethanol 0.01~1.
[0019] Ethylhexylglycerin 0.01~1; E phase Yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate 1~5; Sialic acid liposomes 0.1~2; 0.1-2g of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.
[0020] This invention also provides a method for preparing a skin-feel-optimized face cream based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation, comprising the following steps: Step a, Obtaining the aqueous phase: Place water in a container equipped with a stirring device, thoroughly wet and mix the humectant and thickener, then add them to the water, stir thoroughly until completely dissolved, and heat to 7580℃ to obtain the aqueous phase; Step b, Obtaining the oil phase: Mix the esterifier, antioxidant, and emulsifier and heat to 7580℃, stirring until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase; Step c, emulsification: Add the oil phase obtained in step b to the aqueous phase obtained in step a, stir at 250-350 rpm for 5-10 min, and homogenize at 2500-3500 rpm for 3-10 min; Step d, Adjust pH value: Add pH adjuster, stir at 250-350 rpm for 5-10 min, homogenize at 2500-3500 rpm for 3-10 min, and cool down to 40-45℃ while stirring; Step e: Add fragrance and preservative, stir at 250-350 rpm for 5-10 minutes, and homogenize at 2500-3500 rpm for 3-10 minutes; Step f: After cooling to 35-40℃, add the active ingredients and stir at 250-350 rpm for 5-10 minutes to obtain the desired face cream.
[0021] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: 1. This invention utilizes specific amounts of yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate. Through synergistic action, a multi-layered synergistic network of "structural enhancement, lubrication and plasticization, and penetration-promoting sustained release" is constructed within the face cream system. This allows for skin feel regulation at the rheological and textural levels, achieving an ideal balance between texture and feel, thus resolving the technical contradiction in traditional face cream formulations where texture and feel are difficult to achieve simultaneously. Specifically: Acetylated sodium hyaluronate: Its long-chain macromolecules form a pervasive three-dimensional network structure in the aqueous phase. Through physical entanglement and hydrogen bonding with fatty alcohols and emulsifiers in the formulation, it significantly enhances the system's storage modulus (G') and hardness, providing a solid framework for the cream. This makes the product stable in form when stationary (high G'), and during use, it achieves a smooth transition from cream to liquid through reversible "shear-thinning" behavior. Yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate: Rich in small-molecule polysaccharides and peptides, it effectively reduces the system's internal friction coefficient and cohesiveness. This significantly improves the smoothness of application and makes the cream easier to soften and disperse upon contact with the skin, avoiding the waxy and difficult-to-spread feeling caused by the rigid structure built purely of high molecular polymers. It also promotes the release of active ingredients, resulting in faster absorption. Sialic acid liposomes: With their phospholipid bilayer structure similar to the stratum corneum of the skin, liposomes not only greatly promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients, but their flexible microsphere structure also plays a role in stabilizing and regulating rheology in the formula. Simultaneously, liposomes can form a breathable and non-occlusive moisturizing film on the skin surface and continuously deliver nutrients through a slow-release mechanism, thus contributing to excellent moisturizing longevity and low stickiness.
[0022] 2. The product of this invention exhibits high hardness (≥89 gf) and high storage modulus (G'≥2358 Pa) in a static state, with excellent paste stability. It also possesses superior shear-thinning behavior and low cohesion (≤0.66), resulting in a smooth application and easy spreading. This unique rheological-textural property allows the product to combine a solid paste form with a gentle feel, overcoming the shortcomings of traditional products that are heavy, difficult to spread, or have a loose structure.
[0023] 3. This invention improves the comfort of face cream on the skin from multiple dimensions.
[0024] Dimension 1: Compared with traditional sodium hyaluronate, acetylated sodium hyaluronate has significantly improved lipophilicity and skin affinity after acetylation modification. In addition, the acetylation group can effectively reduce the cohesive energy of the formula, making the cream easier to disperse when it is applied to the skin, thus avoiding the sticky residue problem common in traditional polymers.
[0025] Dimension Two: Yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate is rich in active components such as small-molecule polysaccharides, peptides, and organic acids produced through bio-fermentation. In terms of texture and consistency, the small-molecule polysaccharides and peptides have excellent hydration and lubrication capabilities, acting as a rollerball lubricant in the cream. This effectively reduces the coefficient of friction between the product and the skin surface during application, significantly improving smoothness and promoting absorption of the cream. It also makes even thick creams easier to spread.
[0026] Dimension Three: Liposome carriers can significantly enhance the bioavailability of active ingredients and promote the transdermal absorption of functional ingredients such as sialic acid, thereby achieving a rapid absorption and skin-feeling experience. In the formulation system, sialic acid liposomes can serve as an ideal substitute for solid oils. Their unique microsphere structure can effectively reduce the stickiness of the system and avoid the heavy, occlusive feeling brought by traditional oils.
[0027] The active ingredients selected in this invention promote each other and achieve synergistic effects, solving the problems of texture and feel of traditional face creams. At the same time, it has better moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effects, and effectively reduces the stickiness when using face creams on the market, greatly improving the user experience. Attached Figure Description
[0028] Figure 1 The graphs show the experimental data curves of texture TPA in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 of the present invention. Detailed Implementation
[0029] The present invention will now be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments. These embodiments are based on the technical solution of the present invention and provide detailed implementation methods and specific operating procedures. However, the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments.
[0030] For simplicity, this application only explicitly discloses some numerical ranges. However, any lower limit can be combined with any upper limit to form a range not explicitly stated; and any lower limit can be combined with other lower limits to form a range not explicitly stated, just as any upper limit can be combined with any other upper limit to form a range not explicitly stated. Furthermore, although not explicitly stated, each point or individual value between the endpoints of a range is included within that range. Therefore, each point or individual value can be used as its own lower or upper limit and combined with any other point or individual value, or combined with other lower or upper limits, to form a range not explicitly stated. In the description of this application, it should be noted that, unless otherwise stated, "above" includes the stated number, and "multiple" in "one or more" means two or more.
[0031] The foregoing description of this application is not intended to describe every disclosed implementation or method. Instead, the following description provides more specific examples of exemplary embodiments. Throughout the application, guidance is provided through a series of embodiments that can be used in various combinations. The examples listed are representative only and should not be construed as exhaustive.
[0032] Numerous details are explored in the following description to provide a more thorough explanation of embodiments of this application; however, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that embodiments of this application may be practiced without these specific details.
[0033] This invention systematically characterizes the texture and user experience of samples through rheological testing, textural profile analysis, and subjective skin feel evaluation by consumers. It aims to clarify the influence of active ingredients on the physicochemical properties and skin feel of creams, and to provide a scientific basis for formula optimization and product upgrades.
[0034] This invention utilizes a combination of yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate to construct a multi-synergistic network within a face cream system, encompassing "structural enhancement, lubrication and plasticization, and penetration-enhancing and sustained-release," thereby achieving skin feel regulation at the rheological and textural levels. Specifically: Yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate is prepared using commercially available products or methods reported in existing literature. It is rich in active components such as small-molecule polysaccharides, peptides, and organic acids produced through bio-fermentation. Regarding texture and fluidity, the small-molecule polysaccharides and peptides possess excellent hydration and lubrication capabilities, acting as a rollerball lubricant in the ointment. This effectively reduces the coefficient of friction between the product and the skin surface during application, significantly improving smoothness and making even thick ointments easier to spread. Secondly, in terms of absorbency and lightness, these small molecules can regulate the interfacial properties between the oil and water phases, promoting the uniform dispersion and rapid release of active ingredients. Unlike some high-molecular polymers that form a dense, closed, sticky film on the skin surface, they form a breathable, skin-friendly moisturizing layer, ensuring rapid absorption of active ingredients while avoiding a sticky residue. Regarding system stability and long-lasting hydration, the abundant polysaccharides moderately enhance the system's structural viscosity and adhesion, thereby improving the product's adhesion and even coverage on the skin, prolonging the action time of moisturizing factors, and achieving long-lasting hydration. However, by moderately reducing the cohesiveness of the cream, it avoids the waxy feeling caused by an overly strong structure, ensuring that it can quickly soften and blend upon contact with body temperature, further optimizing the final skin feel.
[0035] Sialic acid liposomes are prepared according to the following steps: 0.5%~20% sialic acid, 0.1%~5% arginine, 5%~25% glycerol and 20%~70% water are mixed by weight percentage and stirred in a water bath at 30~70℃ until completely dissolved and transparent to obtain a clear and transparent aqueous phase A solution; Mix 0.5%~5% lecithin with 0.5%~10% 1,2-pentanediol, stir in a water bath at 50~80℃ until homogeneous and transparent, and then cool to 30~50℃ to obtain lipid phase B solution; Mix 0.5%~5% vitamin E, 2%~10% caprylic / capric triglycerides, 1%~15% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and 1%~15% polysorbate-80, and stir at 30~50℃ until homogeneous and transparent to obtain oil phase C liquid.
[0036] The prepared oil phase C and lipid phase B are mixed evenly at 30-50°C. Then, the aqueous phase A is slowly added under stirring, and stirring continues until a homogeneous pre-emulsion is formed. The pre-emulsion is then processed using a high-pressure microfluidic homogenizer, with the homogenization pressure controlled at 250-1200 bar (or 4000-17000 psi), and the homogenization is repeated 1-12 times. After homogenization, the product is collected. To obtain uniformly sized and purified liposomes, the product is placed in an ultrafiltration centrifuge tube (molecular weight cutoff 10-50 kDa) and centrifuged at 10000-20000×g for 20-60 minutes to remove unencapsulated free sialic acid. The retentate in the tube is collected to obtain purified sialic acid liposomes. Liposome carriers can significantly improve the bioavailability of active ingredients and promote the transdermal absorption of functional ingredients such as sialic acid, thereby achieving a rapid absorption and skin-feeling experience. In the formulation system, sialic acid liposomes serve as an ideal substitute for solid oils. Their unique microsphere structure effectively reduces the stickiness of the system, avoiding the heavy, occlusive feeling associated with traditional oils. Simultaneously, this ingredient achieves long-lasting moisturizing and continuous anti-aging by gradually releasing encapsulated active ingredients. From a rheological perspective, the microsphere structure of sialic acid liposomes can moderately regulate the viscoelasticity of the system, giving the cream better spreadability and smoothness, further optimizing the product's application experience.
[0037] Acetylated sodium hyaluronate is prepared by acetylation of sodium hyaluronate using commercially available products or methods reported in existing literature. Compared to traditional sodium hyaluronate, acetylation significantly enhances its lipophilicity and skin affinity. Studies have shown that acetylated sodium hyaluronate can form a unique three-dimensional network structure in the system, significantly improving the product's storage modulus (G') and structural strength, providing stable skeletal support for the ointment. This enhanced network structure not only ensures the product's morphological stability in a static state but also achieves a smooth application experience through shear-thinning behavior during dynamic use. Notably, the acetylated groups in its molecule effectively reduce the cohesive energy of the formulation, making the ointment easier to disperse upon contact with the skin and avoiding the sticky residue problem common in traditional polymers. In terms of moisturizing performance, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, with its amphiphilic properties, can form a breathable and long-lasting moisturizing film on the skin surface. This film not only effectively locks in moisture but its unique smooth texture also significantly enhances the moisturizing experience during use. From a textural perspective, the addition of this ingredient moderately improves the product's hardness and elasticity. Through its synergistic effect with yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate and sialic acid liposomes, it effectively avoids the application resistance caused by excessive thickening, ensuring a perfectly rich texture during use.
[0038] This invention utilizes a combination of yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate to construct a multi-synergistic network in a face cream system, characterized by "structural enhancement, lubrication and plasticization, and penetration-enhancing and sustained-release." The long-chain macromolecules of acetylated sodium hyaluronate form a pervasive three-dimensional network structure in the aqueous phase. Through physical entanglement and hydrogen bonding with fatty alcohols and emulsifiers in the formulation, this significantly enhances the system's storage modulus (G') and hardness, providing a robust framework for the cream. This results in a stable form (high G') when the product is at rest, and a smooth transition from cream to liquid during use through reversible "shear-thinning" behavior. The small-molecule polysaccharides and peptides abundant in the yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate effectively reduce the system's internal friction coefficient and cohesiveness. This significantly improves the smoothness of application and makes the cream easier to soften and disperse upon contact with the skin, avoiding the waxy and difficult-to-spread feeling caused by rigid structures built purely of polymers. It also promotes the release of active ingredients, resulting in faster absorption. Liposomes, with their phospholipid bilayer structure similar to the stratum corneum of the skin, not only greatly promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients, but their flexible microsphere structure also plays a role in stabilizing and regulating rheology in the formulation. Simultaneously, liposomes can form a breathable and non-occlusive moisturizing film on the skin surface and continuously deliver nutrients through a slow-release mechanism, thus contributing to excellent moisturizing longevity and low stickiness. These three factors work synergistically to achieve skin feel regulation at the rheological and textural levels.
[0039] Furthermore, the aforementioned active ingredients of this invention can be used in face creams, especially anti-aging and moisturizing creams. In addition to the aforementioned active ingredients, the face cream also includes the necessary base ingredients, which can be selected from conventional base ingredients used in existing products. In a preferred embodiment, the specific formula of the face cream is shown in Table 1 below: Table 1 Face Cream Formula Ratio Table To further understand the present invention, the following embodiments are provided. It is worth noting that, unless otherwise specified, all raw materials used in the present invention are commercially available; and all methods and equipment employed are common in the art.
[0040] Examples and Comparative Examples The formulations of each embodiment and comparative example are shown in Table 2 below. The formulations of the active ingredients obtained from the above examples and comparative examples in the face cream are shown in Table 2 below: Table 2. Formulation Ratios of Face Creams in Examples and Comparative Examples The difference between the formulation of Example 2 and Example 1 is that the content of the active ingredient is reduced; The difference between Example 3 and Example 1 is that the content of the active ingredient is increased; The difference between the blank example and Example 2 is that all the active ingredients are missing; The only difference between Comparative Examples 1-3 and Example 2 is the absence of one active ingredient; The difference between Comparative Examples 4-6 and Example 2 is the absence of two active ingredients.
[0041] The sialic acid liposomes used in the creams of each embodiment, blank example and comparative example were prepared according to the following steps: 10% sialic acid, 2% arginine, 20% glycerol and 44% water were mixed by weight percentage and stirred in a 50°C water bath until completely dissolved and transparent to obtain a clear and transparent aqueous phase A solution; Mix 2% lecithin with 5% 1,2-pentanediol, stir in a 60°C water bath until homogeneous and transparent, then cool to 40°C to obtain lipid phase B solution; Mix 2% vitamin E, 5% caprylic / capric triglyceride, 5% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and 5% polysorbate-80, and stir at 40°C until homogeneous and transparent to obtain oil phase C.
[0042] The prepared oil phase C and lipid phase B were mixed evenly at 40°C. Then, aqueous phase A was slowly added under stirring, and stirring continued until a homogeneous primary emulsion was formed. In the final system, the weight ratio of aqueous phase A, lipid phase B, and oil phase C was 76:7:17.
[0043] The colostrum was processed using a high-pressure microfluidic homogenizer at a pressure of 800 bar, and the homogenization was repeated 10 times. After homogenization, the product was collected. To obtain uniformly sized and purified liposomes, the product was placed in an ultrafiltration centrifuge tube (molecular weight cutoff 10-50 kDa) and centrifuged at 10000×g for 60 minutes to remove unencapsulated free sialic acid. The retentate in the tube was collected to obtain the purified sialic acid liposomes.
[0044] The preparation methods of the face creams in each embodiment and comparative example are as follows: Step a, Obtaining the aqueous phase: Place water in a container equipped with a stirring device, thoroughly wet and mix the humectant and thickener according to the mass ratio in Table 2, add them to the water, stir thoroughly until completely dissolved, heat to 78°C, and obtain the aqueous phase composition; Step b, Obtaining the oil phase: Mix the esterifier, antioxidant, and emulsifier according to the mass ratio in Table 2, heat to 78°C, and stir until completely dissolved to obtain a mixture; Step c, Emulsification: Add the mixture from step b to the aqueous phase from step a, stir at 300 rpm for 8 minutes and homogenize at 3000 rpm for 7 minutes; Step d: Adjust pH value: Add citric acid according to the mass ratio in Table 2 to adjust pH; stir at 300 rpm for 8 minutes and homogenize at 3000 pm for 7 minutes, then stir and cool to 43℃; Step e: Add fragrance and preservative according to the mass ratio in Table 2, stir at 300 rpm for 4 minutes and homogenize at 3000 rpm for 7 minutes; Step f: At a temperature of 38℃, add the active ingredients according to the mass ratio in Table 2, stir at 300 rpm for 8 minutes to obtain the desired face cream; If there are no active ingredients in step f, then it is not necessary to add them.
[0045] To comprehensively and objectively evaluate the technical effects of the present invention, the face cream samples prepared in Example 1, the blank example, and Comparative Examples 1-6 were subjected to the following tests: 1. Rheological testing Instrumentation and conditions: A rotational rheometer (Anton Paar MCR 302) was used, equipped with a CC27 coaxial cylindrical measuring system, and RheoCompass™ software was used for control and data acquisition. The test temperature was kept constant at 25℃.
[0046] (1) Steady-state shear test: shear rate range 0.1-100 s -1 Focus on recording 50 seconds -1 Apparent viscosity at shear rate, a parameter closely related to the actual spreadability of the product.
[0047] (2) Dynamic oscillation test: a. Amplitude scan: With a fixed angular frequency of 10 rad / s and a strain range of 0.01%-100%, determine the linear viscoelastic region (LVE) and record the storage modulus (G'), loss modulus (G''), and loss factor (tan δ).
[0048] b. Frequency scan: Within the linear viscoelastic region (LVE), the deformation limit (γ) obtained by amplitude scan is selected. t Using ω as a control condition, a frequency scan (angular frequency range 0.01-100 rad / s) was performed, and the G' value at w=0.01 rad / s was recorded to evaluate the structural stability of the sample in a static state.
[0049] 2. Texture Profile Analysis (TPA) Instruments and conditions: A Rapid TA texture analyzer equipped with a P / 20 cylindrical probe was used. Data acquisition and processing were performed using Exponent software, and the test mode was TPA (Texture Profile Analysis). Test parameters: Pre-test, test, and return speeds were all 1.0 mm / s; compression depth was 4 mm; trigger force was 5.0 g; and the interval between two compressions was 5 s. The test was conducted at 20℃.
[0050] Key parameters: Each sample was tested in parallel three times, and the hardness (gf), elasticity, adhesion (gf*s) and cohesion were recorded. The average value was used for analysis.
[0051] 3. Subjective sensory evaluation Evaluation team and environment: The evaluation was conducted by 10 professionally trained sensory evaluators in a standard sensory evaluation room (temperature 24-25℃, humidity 50%-60%).
[0052] Evaluation method: Referring to the ASTM E1490-3 standard, key attributes such as the cream's ability to lift, smoothness of application (3 circles), hydration (3 circles), absorption speed (15 circles), stickiness (15 circles), and moisturizing lasting effect (after use) are scored on a scale of 0-15.
[0053] The results are shown in the table below: Table 3. Rheological parameter results of the examples and comparative examples. Table 4. Texture parameter results of the examples and comparative examples. The rheological and textural test data in Tables 3 and 4 show that the formulations of Examples 1-3 of this invention, through the synergistic combination of yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes and acetylated sodium hyaluronate, achieved an ideal balance between structural stability and mechanical properties at different concentration ratios, and their overall performance was superior to that of the comparative examples.
[0054] The rheological test results in Table 3 show that Examples 1 to 3 of the present invention exhibit excellent rheological properties at different total active ingredient contents through the ternary synergy of yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes and acetylated sodium hyaluronate, and all indicators are significantly better than those of the blank example and all comparative examples.
[0055] In terms of apparent viscosity, the apparent viscosities of Examples 1, 2, and 3 were 2185 Pa·s, 1950 Pa·s, and 5121 Pa·s, respectively, all higher than the 1485 Pa·s of the blank example and the 1594 Pa·s to 1683 Pa·s of Comparative Examples 1 to 6. Notably, Example 2, with a total active ingredient content of 1.0%, achieved an apparent viscosity of 1950 Pa·s, higher than any of the comparative examples with the same total active ingredient content. Among them, Comparative Example 1 had the highest apparent viscosity of only 1683 Pa·s, demonstrating that the ternary combination can significantly enhance the thickness of the system even at low addition levels, which is beneficial for smooth transition during application.
[0056] In terms of energy storage modulus G', the energy storage modulus G' of Examples 1, 2, and 3 are 2358 Pa, 2016 Pa, and 6203 Pa, respectively, which are much higher than the 1187 Pa of the blank example and the 1311 Pa to 1478 Pa of Comparative Examples 1 to 6. The energy storage modulus G' of Example 2 is 2016 Pa, which is also better than all the comparative examples. Among them, the energy storage modulus G' of Comparative Example 2 is the highest at only 1478 Pa, indicating that the ternary synergy constructs a stronger three-dimensional network framework, endowing the paste with excellent static stability and anti-collapse ability.
[0057] At the level of the loss factor tanδ, the smaller the loss factor tanδ, the higher the proportion of elasticity in the system and the stronger the structural stability. The loss factors tanδ of Examples 1, 2, and 3 are 0.349, 0.382, and 0.285, respectively, all lower than the 0.516 of the blank example and 0.484 to 0.501 of all comparative examples. The loss factor tanδ of Example 2 is 0.382, significantly lower than the lowest value of 0.484 in the comparative examples. This lowest value appears in Comparative Example 2, indicating that the ternary combination makes the cream more similar to the behavior of an elastic solid, less prone to flow and deformation during storage, and more sensitive to shear thinning response during application.
[0058] The above results fully demonstrate that yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate must be present simultaneously. The absence of any one or two of them, i.e., Comparative Examples 1 to 6, will lead to a significant decrease in apparent viscosity and storage modulus, an increase in loss factor, and the system will tend to be a viscous liquid, making it impossible to achieve a stable paste structure and excellent spreadability.
[0059] The textural profile analysis results in Table 4 show that Examples 1 to 3 are superior to the blank example and all comparative examples in all four key indicators of hardness, elasticity, adhesion and cohesion.
[0060] In terms of hardness, the hardnesses of Examples 1, 2, and 3 were 89.3 gf, 78.6 gf, and 185.4 gf, respectively, all higher than the 41.2 gf of the blank example and the 46.3 gf to 54.1 gf of Comparative Examples 1 to 6. The hardness of Example 2 was 78.6 gf, significantly better than the highest value of 54.1 gf in the comparative examples, which appeared in Comparative Example 3. This indicates that the ternary combination can provide a more solid paste framework, maintain its shape well when applied, and ensure spreadability through shear thinning.
[0061] In terms of elasticity, the elasticity values of Examples 1, 2, and 3 were 0.968, 0.951, and 0.982, respectively, all higher than the blank example's 0.887 and all comparative examples's 0.894 to 0.912. High elasticity means that the paste has a strong ability to recover after being compressed, which is beneficial for maintaining the product's shape and providing a bouncy feel during use.
[0062] In terms of adhesion, the higher the absolute value of adhesion, the stronger the adhesion between the product and the skin, which is beneficial for even application and long-lasting moisturization. The absolute values of adhesion for Examples 1, 2, and 3 were 203.5 gf·s, 188.6 gf·s, and 352.8 gf·s, respectively, all greater than the 98.5 gf·s of the blank example and the 108.2 gf·s to 125.4 gf·s of all comparative examples. The absolute value of adhesion for Example 2 was 188.6 gf·s, significantly higher than the highest value of 125.4 gf·s in the comparative examples, which appeared in Comparative Example 3, demonstrating that the ternary synergy gives the cream better spreadability.
[0063] At the cohesive level, the lower cohesiveness allows the ointment to soften rapidly upon contact with body temperature, which is beneficial for the release and absorption of active ingredients. The cohesivenesses of Examples 1, 2, and 3 are 0.658, 0.681, and 0.603, respectively, all lower than the blank example's 0.748 and all comparative examples' 0.724 to 0.741. The cohesiveness of Example 2 is 0.681, lower than the lowest value of 0.724 among the comparative examples, which appears in Comparative Example 3. This indicates that the ternary combination, while maintaining high hardness, can effectively avoid excessively high cohesive energy, achieving the ideal characteristics of easy spreadability and rapid absorption.
[0064] In contrast, embodiments 1-3 of the present invention successfully unify high structural strength and excellent usability through the synergy of the three, exhibiting high energy storage modulus and hardness, low cohesion and high adhesion. Physical parameters confirm its unique advantages of having a stable paste, smooth application and long-lasting moisturizing properties, and different proportions can be adjusted to produce a series of skin feel characteristics from light and refreshing to moisturizing.
[0065] Figure 1 These are the texture profile analysis curves for Example 2 (blue curve) and the blank example (purple curve) of the present invention. As shown in the curves, the height of the first positive peak of Example 2 significantly exceeds that of the blank example, indicating that its ointment has higher hardness and a more solid and dense structure. More importantly, the depth and area of the negative peak formed after the first compression of Example 2 are much larger than those of the blank example. This directly proves that it has excellent adhesion, indicating that the product can produce a stronger sense of adhesion when in contact with the skin, thus facilitating uniform application and long-lasting moisturization. In addition, the second positive peak of Example 2 is more saturated, indicating that its internal structure has better resilience and recovery ability after being compressed, and the system stability is better.
[0066] Table 5 Sensory evaluation results of the examples and comparative examples (0-15 points) In Table 5 above, the pickling property of the paste represents the ease of picking up the paste. The higher the score, the easier it is to pick up. The scores of Examples 1, 2 and 3 are all lower than those of Comparative Examples 1-6, indicating that the paste is dense and solid, and requires slight force to pick up.
[0067] In terms of application smoothness, the application smoothness scores of Examples 1, 2, and 3 were 12.8, 12.5, and 14.0, respectively, all higher than the blank example's 11.2 and all comparative examples' scores of 9.5 to 11.0. Example 2's score of 12.5 was significantly better than the highest value of 11.0 among the comparative examples, which appeared in Comparative Example 4, demonstrating that the ternary combination exhibits low resistance and good spreadability in actual application.
[0068] In terms of hydration, the hydration values of Examples 1, 2 and 3 were 12.2, 11.4 and 13.5 respectively, which were higher than the 8.1 of the blank example and the 8.2 to 9.8 of the comparative examples, demonstrating a better immediate water feel.
[0069] In terms of absorption speed, a lower absorption speed score indicates faster absorption. Example 2 had the fastest absorption speed at 5.8 points, followed by Example 1 at 6.8 points, and Example 3 at 8.1 points, all of which were better than the blank example's 8.3 points and most comparative examples. Comparative Example 5 had an absorption speed of 7.7 points, slightly better than Example 3, but its key indicators such as application smoothness, hydration, and moisturizing durability were significantly worse than Example 3, indicating that the ternary combination has irreplaceable advantages in overall performance.
[0070] Regarding stickiness, a lower stickiness score indicates a more refreshing feel. Example 2 had the lowest stickiness score at 4.2, followed by Example 1 at 4.7, and Example 3 at 5.5, all lower than the blank example's 6.2 and all comparative examples' scores of 5.9 to 6.5. This indicates that the ternary synergy can effectively reduce the greasy residue.
[0071] In terms of moisturizing durability, Example 3 had the highest moisturizing durability score of 14.7, while Examples 1 and 2 scored 11.7 and 10.2 respectively. Both scores were significantly higher than the blank example's score of 7.2 and the comparative examples' scores of 7.1 to 7.8, proving that the ternary system can provide long-lasting moisturizing.
[0072] In summary, acetylated sodium hyaluronate forms a macromolecular network structure in the system and, after emulsification with the high-melting-point fatty alcohols and oils in the formulation, forms a reinforced structure similar to "reinforced concrete," significantly improving the structural strength and rheological stability of the system in the examples. This is manifested in increased initial viscosity, elastic modulus, and shear resistance, thus giving the product a thicker, smoother feel and better spreadability. Texture analysis shows that the face cream in the examples has higher hardness, elasticity, and storage modulus than the comparative and blank examples, indicating a more stable structure; its higher viscosity and adhesion help improve skin adhesion and evenness of application. The low molecular weight components in the rice ferment broth act as lubricants and plasticizers, moderately reducing the structural strength of the system; and by reducing cohesion, it improves the smoothness of application, promotes the release and absorption of active ingredients, and thus optimizes the user experience. The sensory evaluation results are highly consistent with the instrument measurement results, verifying the positive role of the active ingredients in improving the texture and feel of the cream.
[0073] As demonstrated, under the condition of the same total active ingredient content of 1.0%, Example 2 was significantly superior to Comparative Examples 1 to 6, which consisted of single or two active ingredients, in key indicators such as energy storage modulus, hardness, adhesion, cohesion, application smoothness, absorption speed and stickiness, thus confirming the irreplaceable nature of ternary synergy.
[0074] As the content of active ingredients increased from 1.0% in Example 2 to 5.0% in Example 1 and then to 12.0% in Example 3, the product's hardness, energy storage modulus, adhesion, and moisturizing durability increased in a gradient manner, while the cohesiveness and loss factor remained low, achieving a series of skin feel adjustments from refreshing to rich.
[0075] The blank sample contained no active ingredients and performed the worst in all indicators, further verifying that the active ingredient composition of the present invention is the core factor in optimizing the rheology, texture, and sensory properties of face cream.
[0076] The foregoing has shown and described the basic process, main features, and advantages of the present invention. Those skilled in the art should understand that the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments. The embodiments and descriptions in the specification are merely illustrative of the principles of the invention. Various changes and modifications can be made to the invention without departing from its spirit and scope, and all such changes and modifications fall within the scope of the present invention as claimed. The scope of protection of the present invention is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.
Claims
1. A skin feel optimized composition based on rheology-texture co- regulation, characterized in that, The composition comprises yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate in a mass ratio of (0.1-5):(0.01-2):(0.1-5).
2. The skin feel optimized composition based on rheo-textural synergistic regulation according to claim 1, wherein, The mass ratio of the yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate, sialic acid liposomes, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate is (0.5-3):(0.25-1):(0.25-1).
3. A skin-feel optimized face cream based on rheology-texture co-regulation, characterized in that, It includes matrix excipients and active ingredients, wherein the active ingredients include the skin-feel-optimized composition based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation as described in any one of claims 1-2.
4. The skin feel optimized face cream based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation according to claim 3, characterized in that, The mass percentage content of the active ingredients in the face cream is 0.21-12%.
5. The skin feel optimized face cream based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that, The active ingredient content in the face cream is 1-5% by mass.
6. The skin feel optimized face cream based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation according to claim 3, characterized in that, The matrix excipients are selected from any one or more of solvents, humectants, esterifiers, thickeners, emulsifiers, pH adjusters, fragrances, or preservatives.
7. A skin-feel-optimized face cream based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation according to claim 6, characterized in that, The moisturizer is selected from one or more of glycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, butylene glycol, trehalose, xylitol, and sodium hyaluronate. The esterifying agent is selected from one or more of the following: isohexadecane, isopropyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane alcohol, polymethylsilsesquioxane, vinyldimethylsiloxane, and tocopheryl acetate. The thickener is selected from one or more of sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinking polymers; The emulsifier is selected from one or more of PEG-100 stearate, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan oleate, phytosterol / behenol / octyldecyl lauroyl glutamate, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenol, and cetearyl alcohol. The pH adjuster is selected from one or more of arginine and citric acid; The fragrance agent is selected from (daily-use) fragrances; The preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.
8. The skin feel optimized face cream based on rheology-texture co- regulation according to claim 3, characterized in that, The face cream comprises the following components by weight percentage: Component A: Water to 100 Glycerin 5~15; Butanediol 1~3; 1,2-Hexanediol 1~3; Xylitol 0.1~2; Trehalose 0.1~2; Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0.1~1; Phase B: Isohexadecane 3~6; Isopropyl isostearate 1-3; Caprylic / capric triglyceride 0.1~2; Shea butter esters 0.1~2; 1-3% polydimethylsiloxane; Vinyl dimethylsiloxane 1~3; Tocopherol acetate 0.1~1; PEG-100 stearate 0.1~1; Cetearyl glucoside 0.1~1; Sorbitan oleate 0.1~1; Phytosterols / behenols / octyldecyl lauroyl glutamate 0.1~2; Stearyl alcohol 1~3; Cetyl alcohol 1~3; Behenyl alcohol 0.1~1; Phase C: Citric acid 0.01~1; Phase D: (Daily use) Fragrance 0.01~1; Phenoxyethanol 0.01~1; Ethylhexylglycerin 0.01~1; E phase Yeast / rice fermentation product filtrate 1~5; Sialic acid liposomes 0.1~2; 0.1-2g of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.
9. A method for preparing a skin-feel optimized face cream based on rheology-texture synergistic regulation according to claim 8, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: Step a, Obtaining the aqueous phase: Place water in a container equipped with a stirring device, thoroughly wet and mix the humectant and thickener, then add them to the water, stir thoroughly until completely dissolved, and heat to 7580℃ to obtain the aqueous phase; Step b, Obtaining the oil phase: Mix the esterifier, antioxidant, and emulsifier and heat to 7580℃, stirring until completely dissolved to obtain the oil phase; Step c, emulsification: Add the oil phase obtained in step b to the aqueous phase obtained in step a, stir at 250-350 rpm for 5-10 min, and homogenize at 2500-3500 rpm for 3-10 min; Step d, Adjust pH value: Add pH adjuster, stir at 250-350 rpm for 5-10 min, homogenize at 2500-3500 rpm for 3-10 min, and cool down to 40-45℃ while stirring; Step e: Add fragrance and preservative, stir at 250-350 rpm for 5-10 minutes, and homogenize at 2500-3500 rpm for 3-10 minutes; Step f: After cooling to 35-40℃, add the active ingredients and stir at 250-350 rpm for 5-10 minutes to obtain the desired face cream.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Composition with whitening and anti-wrinkle effects, microemulsion, preparation method and application thereof
CN116370388B