A simulated woven, knit, multi-faceted, twill fabric
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202610856957.9
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-06-15
- Publication Date
- 2026-08-21
AI Technical Summary
梭织面料受限于经纬交织的紧密结构,难以从根本上突破手感硬挺与多向弹力不足的局限;而常规纬编针织仿梭织方案,在追求布面平整与纹理仿真的过程中,又容易牺牲针织面料自身的柔软度与透气优势
本发明针对现有仿梭织风格面料方案中,梭织面料手感硬挺、多向弹力不足且缺乏棉质触感,而常规纬编针织仿梭织方案难以兼顾布面平整度、纹理清晰度与尺寸稳定性的技术矛盾,通过“精梳紧密纺棉短纤与T8聚酯纤维及弹性氨纶丝三元复合纱线体系、成圈与浮线复合组织的工艺反面服用设计、高机号纬编单面大圆机精密织造与低温低张力后整理”的系统化创新,从织物结构本身出发,实现了兼具梭织斜纹外观风格与针织柔软透气、多向弹力特性的新型面料,既保留了针织物的固有舒适优势,又赋予其布面平整、纹理清晰、悬垂挺括的仿梭织视觉效果。具体还体现在:
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Figure CN122610271A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to a multi-faceted knitted twill fabric that mimics woven fabric, belonging to the field of textile fabric technology. Background Technology
[0002] In the textile fabric industry, with the upgrading of consumer demand, people's expectations for weft-knitted fabrics have shifted from basic reusability to a combination of wearing comfort and functional versatility. While retaining the inherent advantages of knitted fabrics such as softness, breathability, and close-fitting comfort, people are pursuing fabrics with a texture and visual effect similar to woven fabrics.
[0003] Currently, there are two main technical approaches to achieving a woven-like appearance. One approach involves directly using woven fabrics and improving their feel and elasticity through fiber modification or finishing processes. Woven fabrics are inherently stable, smooth, drape well, and highly abrasion-resistant, but their weave structure results in a stiffer feel, poor fit, and lower breathability compared to knitted fabrics. Even with the addition of high-elasticity, high-shrinkage fibers to achieve some elasticity, they generally lack the feel of cotton, and the elasticity is mostly unidirectional or bidirectional, lacking multidirectional elasticity. The other approach involves simulating the woven appearance on weft-knitting equipment through simple changes in the weave structure. However, this method often only achieves texture imitation in a single direction, making it difficult to balance fabric smoothness and dimensional stability.
[0004] It is evident that existing technological solutions present an inherent contradiction at the fabric structure level in simultaneously achieving a woven-like appearance and maintaining the comfort of knitted fabrics. Woven fabrics, limited by their tightly interwoven warp and weft structure, struggle to fundamentally overcome their constraints of stiffness and insufficient multi-directional elasticity. Conversely, conventional weft-knitted woven-like solutions, in pursuing a smooth surface and realistic texture, easily sacrifice the softness and breathability inherent in knitted fabrics. Therefore, there is an urgent need to find a new fabric structure solution that, starting from the fabric structure itself, combines the appearance of woven fabrics with the comfort characteristics of knitted fabrics. This solution must retain the advantages of knitted fabrics such as softness, breathability, and multi-directional elasticity while achieving a smooth surface, clear texture, and crisp drape, creating a woven-like visual effect that meets the market's higher demands for a fusion of fabric functionality and comfort. Summary of the Invention
[0005] To address the aforementioned problems, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a knitted multi-faceted twill fabric that mimics woven fabric. This knitted multi-faceted twill fabric is woven on a weft-knitting single-sided circular knitting machine and includes terry yarn and ground yarn. The terry yarn and ground yarn are woven together in two rows to form a complete loop. The terry yarn forms a terry structure consisting of loops and floats, and the ground yarn is formed by locking the previous row with full-needle plain knit to create a twill structure. The terry yarn is combed compact cotton staple fiber, and the ground yarn includes T8 polyester fiber and elastic spandex filament. The fabric structure includes imitation woven 3-segment needle left twill fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle left twill fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle right twill fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle right twill fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle herringbone fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle herringbone fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle twill plain weave fabric structure, or imitation woven 3-segment needle random pattern toothed weave fabric structure. In some embodiments, the woven 3-segment needle left-hand twill fabric has 6 structural units, wherein: Routes 1, 3, and 5 are terry yarn, while routes 2, 4, and 6 are ground yarn; The first coil has a 6-way structural unit with the 3rd and 5th ways being floating wires, the 2nd, 4th, and 6th ways being coiled wires, and the 1st way being a coiled wire. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the second coil consists of 1st and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 3rd lateral line as coiled line. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 1st and 3rd lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 5th lateral line as coiled line.
[0006] In some embodiments, the woven 4-segment needle left-hand twill fabric has 8 structural units, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are ground yarn; The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the 3rd, 5th, and 7th lines being floating lines, the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lines being coiled lines, and the 1st line being a coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the second coil is as follows: the 1st, 5th, and 7th ways are floating wires; the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th ways are coiled wires; and the 3rd way is a coiled wire. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 1st, 3rd, and 7th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 5th lateral line as coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 4th coil consists of 1st, 3rd, and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 7th lateral line as coiled line.
[0007] In some embodiments, the woven 3-segment right-hand twill fabric has 6 structural units, wherein: Routes 1, 3, and 5 are terry yarn, while routes 2, 4, and 6 are ground yarn; The first coil has a 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction, with the first and third ways being floating wires, the second, fourth, and sixth ways being coiled wires, and the fifth way being a coiled wire; The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the second coil consists of 1st and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 3rd lateral line as coiled line. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 3rd and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 1st lateral line as coiled line.
[0008] In some embodiments, the woven 4-segment right-hand twill fabric has 8 structural units, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are ground yarn; The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the first, third, and fifth lines being floating lines, the second, fourth, sixth, and eighth lines being coiled lines, and the seventh line being a coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the second coil is as follows: the 1st, 3rd, and 7th ways are floating wires; the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th ways are coiled wires; and the 5th way is a coiled wire. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires in the 1st, 5th, and 7th channels, coiled wires in the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th channels, and coiled wire in the 3rd channel. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 4th coil consists of 3rd, 5th, and 7th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 1st lateral line as coiled line.
[0009] In some embodiments, the simulated woven 3-segment herringbone fabric has a structural unit with 90 rows forming a cycle, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5...19 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6...20 are ground yarn; The structural unit of the first coil longitudinal section is that the 1st, 7th, and 15th sections are loops, the 3rd, 5th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 17th, and 19th sections are floats, and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the second coil longitudinal section are: the 3rd, 9th, 13th, and 19th sections are loops; the 1st, 5th, 7th, 11th, 15th, and 17th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural unit of the third coil longitudinal section is that the 5th, 11th, and 17th sections are loops, the 1st, 3rd, 7th, 9th, 13th, 15th, and 19th sections are floats, and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops; The simulated woven 4-segment herringbone fabric has a structural unit with 90 rows forming a cycle, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5...27 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6...28 are ground yarn; The structural unit of the first coil longitudinal section is that the 1st, 9th, and 21st sections are loops, the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 23rd, 25th, and 27th sections are floats, and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the second coil longitudinal section are: the 3rd, 11th, 19th, and 27th sections are loops; the 1st, 5th, 7th, 9th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the third coil longitudinal section are: the 5th, 13th, 17th, and 25th sections are loops; the 1st, 3rd, 7th, 9th, 11th, 15th, 19th, 21st, 23rd, and 27th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural unit of the fourth coil longitudinal row consists of the 7th, 15th, and 23rd rows as loops, the 1st, 3rd, 5th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 17th, 19th, 21st, 25th, and 27th rows as floats, and the remaining yarn rows as loops.
[0010] In some embodiments, the simulated woven 3-section needle twill plain weave fabric has 9 structural units, wherein: The first, fourth, and seventh tracks are terry yarn, while the rest are ground yarn; The first coil has 9 longitudinal structural units, with the first and fourth lines being floating lines and the second, third, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, and ninth lines being coiled lines; The 9-way structural unit in the second coil is composed of floating wires in the 1st and 7th ways, and coils in the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th ways. The 9-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires for the 4th and 7th routes, and coils for the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th routes.
[0011] In some embodiments, the fabric is a woven 3-segment random-needle serrated fabric with 8 structural units, wherein: The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the first and fifth lines being floating lines and the second, third, fourth, sixth, seventh, and eighth lines being coiled lines; The 8-way structural unit in the second coil consists of floating wires in the 1st, 3rd, and 7th ways, and coiled wires in the 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, and 8th ways. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires for the 3rd, 5th, and 7th channels, and coiled wires for the 1st, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th channels.
[0012] In some embodiments, the loop length of the terry yarn is 7cm / 99G to 18cm / 99G, the loop length of the polyester fiber in the ground yarn is 16cm / 99G to 40cm / 99G, and the loop length of the elastic fiber is 7cm / 99G to 13cm / 99G; the needle pitch of the weft knitting single-sided circular knitting machine is 18G to 44G, the cylinder diameter is 26 inches to 34 inches, the weight of the knitted fabric is 140g / m² to 400g / m², and the cut width is 130cm to 200cm.
[0013] Secondly, the present invention provides a production process for the aforementioned woven-look knitted multi-faceted twill fabric, comprising the following steps: S1, Material Selection: The terry yarn is made of combed compact spun cotton staple fiber, and the ground yarn is made of polyester filament and elastic spandex filament. S2, Weaving: According to the needle arrangement diagram and cam configuration diagram, place the corresponding level of needles and cams on the weft knitting single-sided circular knitting machine, input the target yarn length value, and the yarn enters the knitting area under tension control. The needles knit into loops and interlock with each other under the control of the cam track. The greige fabric is curled downwards or swung by the pulling mechanism, so that the terry yarn forms a terry structure composed of loops and floats. The ground yarn uses full needle plain knitting to lock the previous path to form a twill structure. S3, Pretreatment: The fabric is refined and desized using a refining agent at a temperature below 85℃; S4, dyeing: Disperse dyes are selected and dyeing is carried out in a sodium acetate buffer dye bath with a stable pH of around 5. After dyeing, reduction washing is performed to remove the floating color. S5, Setting: The dyed fabric is set under low tension conditions for 30 to 60 seconds.
[0014] Advantages and effects of the present invention: This invention addresses the technical contradictions in existing woven-style fabric solutions, such as the stiff hand feel, insufficient multi-directional elasticity, and lack of cotton-like texture in woven fabrics, while conventional weft-knitted woven-style solutions struggle to balance fabric smoothness, texture clarity, and dimensional stability. Through a systematic innovation involving a three-dimensional composite yarn system of combed compact cotton staple fiber, T8 polyester fiber, and elastic spandex, a reverse-side design of loop and float composite weave, high-gauge weft-knitted single-sided circular knitting, and low-temperature, low-tension finishing, this invention achieves a new type of fabric that combines the appearance of woven twill with the softness, breathability, and multi-directional elasticity of knitted fabrics. It retains the inherent comfort advantages of knitted fabrics while providing a smooth surface, clear texture, and crisp drape, mimicking the visual effect of woven fabrics. Specifically, it also includes: 1. A composite weave combining loop and float yarns, worn on the reverse side, achieves a woven twill appearance from the very foundation of the knitting structure: An innovative composite weave is used, alternating between loops and floats in terry yarn. The ground yarn is secured with full-stitch plain knit to form a twill weave, with the two weaves forming a complete loop row. The floats move regularly to the left or right within each row, naturally creating a clear and smooth twill texture on the reverse side of the fabric. Using this reverse side as the wearing side gives the fabric a style and drape highly similar to woven twill, while retaining the inherent softness and breathability of knitted fabrics. This breaks down the inherent boundaries between woven and knitted fabrics at the structural level.
[0015] 2. A ternary composite of combed compact cotton staple fiber, T8 polyester fiber, and elastic spandex yarn achieves a synergistic balance between cotton-like feel and multi-directional elasticity: Combed compact cotton staple fiber provides the terry yarn with a natural cotton feel and moisture-wicking breathability, while T8 polyester fiber and elastic spandex yarn form the ground yarn, creating a high-elasticity skeleton. Through the synergistic effect of the high-elasticity, high-shrinkage yarn and spandex in the yarn structure, the fabric exhibits excellent elastic recovery performance in the warp, weft, and twill directions, forming a multi-directional elastic effect. Simultaneously, by controlling the loop length and proportion of the high-elasticity, high-shrinkage yarn and cotton yarn, the fabric achieves a natural cotton-like feel while maintaining high elasticity, solving the problems of traditional elastic fabrics' rough feel and strong plastic texture.
[0016] 3. Precise control of loop length and finishing processes effectively solves the dimensional stability problem of high-elasticity fabrics: By precisely setting the loop length range of terry yarn, polyester fiber, and elastic fiber, and combining this with the coordinated finishing processes such as low-temperature refining and desizing, sodium acetate buffer bath dyeing, reduction washing, and low-temperature low-tension setting, the fabric shrinkage rate is stably controlled within 5%. While giving the fabric high elasticity, this ensures the long-term stability of garment dimensions, solving the common industry problem of high-elastic knitted fabrics being prone to shrinkage and deformation.
[0017] 4. High-gauge circular knitting machines with precision weaving and compact spinning processes ensure smooth fabric surface and high-density quality: High-gauge single-sided circular knitting machines with needle pitches ranging from 18G to 44G are used for weaving, achieving high-density fabric weaving and resulting in a tighter and finer fabric surface. Simultaneously, the terry yarn uses combed compact spun cotton staple fibers, significantly reducing surface hairiness through compact spinning technology, making the fabric surface smoother and improving its appearance and suitability for outerwear. For high-gauge, high-gauge operations, the yarn enters the knitting zone under tension control, effectively reducing fly waste and protecting the loop-forming components, ensuring the stability of mass production processes.
[0018] 5. Diverse weave textures and adjustable weight and width to meet flexible adaptations to different seasons and dressing scenarios: This invention provides various fabric weave structures such as 3-segment left twill, 4-segment left twill, 3-segment right twill, 4-segment right twill, herringbone, plain weave, and random serrated weave, enriching the visual expressiveness of the imitation woven style. By adjusting the thickness of the raw materials, the fabric weight can fluctuate within the range of 140g / m² to 400g / m². By adjusting the machine model and needle size, the cut width can vary within the range of 130cm to 200cm, flexibly meeting the differentiated needs for fabric weight, width, and elasticity for different seasons and dressing scenarios, from light summer clothing to thick autumn and winter coats. Attached Figure Description
[0019] Figure 1 This is a diagram showing the knitting, needle arrangement, and triangle configuration of the woven fabric structure of the present invention, which is a three-section needle left twill fabric.
[0020] Figure 2 This is a finished fabric image of the woven fabric structure of the present invention, which imitates the three-section needle left twill weave.
[0021] Figure 3 This is a diagram showing the knitting, needle arrangement, and triangle configuration of the woven fabric structure of the present invention, which is a 4-segment needle left twill weave.
[0022] Figure 4 This is a diagram showing the knitting, needle arrangement, and triangular configuration of the woven 3-segment right-twill fabric structure of the present invention.
[0023] Figure 5 This is a finished fabric image of the woven fabric structure of the present invention, which imitates the three-section right-hand twill weave.
[0024] Figure 6 This is a diagram showing the knitting, needle arrangement, and triangular configuration of the woven 4-segment right-twill fabric structure of the present invention.
[0025] Figure 7 This is a diagram showing the knitting, needle arrangement, and triangular configuration of the woven 3-segment herringbone fabric structure of the present invention.
[0026] Figure 8 This is a finished fabric image of the woven three-section herringbone fabric structure of the present invention.
[0027] Figure 9 This is a diagram showing the knitting, needle arrangement, and triangular configuration of the woven 4-segment herringbone fabric structure of the present invention.
[0028] Figure 10 This is a diagram showing the knitting, needle arrangement, and triangular configuration of the woven fabric structure of the present invention, which imitates the three-section twill plain weave.
[0029] Figure 11 This is a finished fabric image of the woven fabric structure of the present invention, which imitates the three-section needle twill plain weave.
[0030] Figure 12 This is a diagram showing the knitting, needle arrangement, and triangular configuration of the woven fabric structure with a three-segment random pattern toothed texture, as described in this invention. Detailed Implementation
[0031] The technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some, not all, of the embodiments of the present invention. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0032] In this invention, unless otherwise explicitly specified and limited, the terms "connected," "linked," and "fixed" should be interpreted broadly. For example, they can refer to a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integral part; they can refer to a mechanical connection or an electrical connection; they can refer to a direct connection or an indirect connection through an intermediate medium; they can refer to the internal communication of two components or the interaction between two components. Those skilled in the art can understand the specific meaning of the above terms in this invention based on the specific circumstances.
[0033] In this invention, the terms "first" and "second" are used only to distinguish similar components / parts in different positions or with different features, and have no other limiting meaning; "upper" refers to the direction in which each component is away from the ground, and "lower" refers to the direction in which each component is away from the ground.
[0034] In this invention, unless otherwise explicitly specified and limited, "above" or "below" the second feature can include direct contact between the first and second features, or contact between the first and second features through another feature between them. Furthermore, "above," "over," and "on top" of the second feature includes the first feature directly above or diagonally above the second feature, or simply indicates that the first feature is at a higher horizontal level than the second feature. "Below," "below," and "under" the second feature includes the first feature directly below or diagonally below the second feature, or simply indicates that the first feature is at a lower horizontal level than the second feature.
[0035] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a knitted multi-faceted twill fabric that mimics woven fabric. The knitted multi-faceted twill fabric is woven on a weft knitting single-sided circular knitting machine and includes terry yarn and ground yarn. The terry yarn and the ground yarn are woven together in two directions to form a complete loop row. The terry yarn forms a terry structure composed of loops and floats. The ground yarn is formed by locking the previous row with full needle plain knitting to form a twill structure. The terry yarn is combed compact spun cotton staple fiber, and the ground yarn includes T8 polyester fiber and elastic spandex yarn.
[0036] The spinning methods for short fibers can include ring spinning, compact spinning, Siro spinning, compact Siro spinning, air-jet spinning, vortex spinning, etc. They can also contain functional components. The raw material specifications can be 16S-60S, and they can account for 25%-60% of their fabric composition.
[0037] The short fiber composition can be cotton, linen, silk, wool, viscose, acetate, polyester, etc., with two or three of them blended together.
[0038] Polyester elastic fibers can be spun using POY, ATY, DTY, FDY, or a combination of any one or two of these methods. Polyester composite yarns can be composed of a single component, such as PET, PBT, or PTT fibers, or a two-component blend, where the two components can be PET / PBT, PBT / PTT, or PTT / PET. They can also contain functional components, and their raw material specifications can range from 30D to 200D, accounting for 25% to 65% of their composition in fabrics. Elastic fibers include, but are not limited to, PET, PBT, PTT, T8, T400, T800, SORONA, and various compositions of polyester, nylon, polypropylene, and bio-based filament fibers.
[0039] The fabric structure includes imitation woven 3-segment needle left twill fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle left twill fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle right twill fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle right twill fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle herringbone fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle herringbone fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle twill plain weave fabric structure, or imitation woven 3-segment needle random pattern toothed weave fabric structure. In some embodiments, the elastic spandex yarn can be 20D-105D, accounting for 3%-25% of the fabric. The loop length of the terry yarn is 7cm / 99G to 18cm / 99G, the loop length of the polyester fiber in the ground yarn is 16cm / 99G to 40cm / 99G, and the loop length of the elastic fiber is 7cm / 99G to 13cm / 99G. The needle pitch of the weft-knitted single-sided circular knitting machine is 18G to 44G, the cylinder diameter is 26 inches to 34 inches, the weight of the knitted fabric is 140g / m² to 400g / m², and the cut width is 130cm to 200cm. Additionally, the 18G-30G model is suitable for everyday home or work commuting fabrics, while the 32G-44G high-quality model is suitable for high-quality business fabrics.
[0040] Secondly, the present invention provides a production process for the aforementioned woven-look knitted multi-faceted twill fabric, comprising the following steps: S1, Material Selection: Terry yarn often uses pure combed cotton short yarn, which makes the pattern clear and the hair less; the ground yarn usually uses high-strength polyester filament, which makes the fabric base tight and flat, forming a skeleton; the filling yarn in the ground yarn is made of elastic spandex yarn with good wear resistance and tensile recovery. Although polyester does not contain natural impurities, the fabric is a cotton-polyester blend, so pretreatment is still crucial. First, impurities such as machine oil, sizing agents, waxes, and cottonseed hulls applied during weaving are removed to provide a foundation for even dyeing, allowing the dye to penetrate the fibers evenly, avoiding uneven coloring and the formation of streaks, and significantly reducing batch variations, end-to-end variations, and left-to-right color differences. Then, a highly efficient refining agent is used to thoroughly treat the fabric at approximately 85°C for refining and desizing.
[0041] S2, Weaving: According to the needle arrangement diagram and cam configuration diagram, place the corresponding level of needles and cams on the weft knitting single-sided circular knitting machine, input the target yarn length value, and the yarn enters the knitting area under tension control. The needles knit into loops and interlock with each other under the control of the cam track. The greige fabric is curled downwards or swung by the pulling mechanism, so that the terry yarn forms a terry structure composed of loops and floats. The ground yarn uses full needle plain knitting to lock the previous path to form a twill structure. S3, Pretreatment: The fabric is refined and desized using a refining agent at a temperature below 85℃; S4, dyeing: Disperse dyes are selected and dyeing is carried out in a sodium acetate buffer dye bath with a stable pH of around 5. After dyeing, reduction washing is performed to remove the floating color. Choose disperse dyes with good lifting power and uniformity. This high-performance fabric has extremely high requirements for color fastness. Special high-denier filaments need to be dyed at low temperatures, as high temperatures will destroy the perfect macromolecular chain structure formed by super-stretching. It is also necessary to extend the heat preservation time. The pH value of the dye bath is kept stable at around 5, and a sodium acetate buffer system is used to maintain it. Strictly control the cooling rate at 1°C / min (e.g., first cool quickly to 80°C, and then slowly cool to below 50°C before removing from the vat).
[0042] S5, Setting: The dyed fabric is set under low tension conditions for 30 to 60 seconds; after dyeing, a thorough reduction wash is performed to remove loose dye and improve color fastness; the setting time is generally 30-60 seconds; setting under low tension conditions aims to obtain stable dimensions, desired style, and necessary functionality; in terms of fabric requirements, hydrophilic finishing and hand feel finishing are performed.
[0043] Example 1 like Figures 1-2 As shown, the simulated woven 3-section needle left-hand twill fabric illustrated in this embodiment has 6 structural units, wherein: Routes 1, 3, and 5 are terry yarn, while routes 2, 4, and 6 are ground yarn; The first coil has a 6-way structural unit with the 3rd and 5th ways being floating wires, the 2nd, 4th, and 6th ways being coiled wires, and the 1st way being a coiled wire. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the second coil consists of 1st and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 3rd lateral line as coiled line. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 1st and 3rd lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 5th lateral line as coiled line.
[0044] There is no limit to the level of the pin arrangement diagram, which can reach up to about level 6.
[0045] Example 2 like Figure 3 As shown, the woven 4-segment needle left-hand twill fabric illustrated in this embodiment has 8 structural units, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are ground yarn; The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the 3rd, 5th, and 7th lines being floating lines, the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lines being coiled lines, and the 1st line being a coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the second coil is as follows: the 1st, 5th, and 7th ways are floating wires; the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th ways are coiled wires; and the 3rd way is a coiled wire. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 1st, 3rd, and 7th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 5th lateral line as coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 4th coil consists of 1st, 3rd, and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 7th lateral line as coiled line.
[0046] There is no limit to the level of the pin arrangement diagram, which can reach up to about level 6.
[0047] Example 3 like Figures 4-5 As shown, the woven 3-section right-hand twill fabric illustrated in this embodiment has 6 structural units, wherein: Routes 1, 3, and 5 are terry yarn, while routes 2, 4, and 6 are ground yarn; The first coil has a 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction, with the first and third ways being floating wires, the second, fourth, and sixth ways being coiled wires, and the fifth way being a coiled wire; The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the second coil consists of 1st and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 3rd lateral line as coiled line. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 3rd and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 1st lateral line as coiled line.
[0048] There is no limit to the level of the pin arrangement diagram, which can reach up to about level 6.
[0049] Example 4 like Figure 6 As shown, the woven 4-segment right-hand twill fabric illustrated in this embodiment has 8 structural units, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are ground yarn; The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the first, third, and fifth lines being floating lines, the second, fourth, sixth, and eighth lines being coiled lines, and the seventh line being a coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the second coil is as follows: the 1st, 3rd, and 7th ways are floating wires; the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th ways are coiled wires; and the 5th way is a coiled wire. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires in the 1st, 5th, and 7th channels, coiled wires in the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th channels, and coiled wire in the 3rd channel. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 4th coil consists of 3rd, 5th, and 7th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 1st lateral line as coiled line.
[0050] There is no limit to the level of the pin arrangement diagram, which can reach up to about level 6.
[0051] Example 5 like Figures 7-8 As shown, the simulated woven 3-segment herringbone fabric illustrated in this embodiment has a structural unit with 90 rows forming a cycle, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5...19 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6...20 are ground yarn; The structural unit of the first coil longitudinal section is that the 1st, 7th, and 15th sections are loops, the 3rd, 5th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 17th, and 19th sections are floats, and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the second coil longitudinal section are: the 3rd, 9th, 13th, and 19th sections are loops; the 1st, 5th, 7th, 11th, 15th, and 17th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural unit of the third coil longitudinal section consists of loops 5, 11, and 17, which are loops; loops 1, 3, 7, 9, 13, 15, and 19, which are floats; and the remaining loops are loops.
[0052] The pin header level is unlimited, and can reach around level 6; the number of triangle cycles in the triangle configuration diagram can be increased or decreased, and the total number of channels in one cycle triangle is controlled within 108 channels.
[0053] Example 6 like Figure 9 As shown, the simulated woven 4-segment herringbone fabric illustrated in this embodiment has a structural unit with 90 rows forming a cycle, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5...27 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6...28 are ground yarn; The structural unit of the first coil longitudinal section is that the 1st, 9th, and 21st sections are loops, the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 23rd, 25th, and 27th sections are floats, and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the second coil longitudinal section are: the 3rd, 11th, 19th, and 27th sections are loops; the 1st, 5th, 7th, 9th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the third coil longitudinal section are: the 5th, 13th, 17th, and 25th sections are loops; the 1st, 3rd, 7th, 9th, 11th, 15th, 19th, 21st, 23rd, and 27th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural unit of the fourth coil longitudinal row consists of the 7th, 15th, and 23rd rows as loops, the 1st, 3rd, 5th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 17th, 19th, 21st, 25th, and 27th rows as floats, and the remaining yarn rows as loops.
[0054] The pin header level is unlimited, and can reach around level 6; the number of triangle cycles in the triangle configuration diagram can be increased or decreased, and the total number of triangle paths in one cycle should be controlled within 108 paths.
[0055] Example 7 like Figures 10-11 As shown, the simulated woven 3-section needle twill plain weave fabric illustrated in this embodiment has 9 structural units, wherein: The first, fourth, and seventh tracks are terry yarn, while the rest are ground yarn; The first coil has 9 longitudinal structural units, with the first and fourth lines being floating lines and the second, third, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, and ninth lines being coiled lines; The 9-way structural unit in the second coil is composed of floating wires in the 1st and 7th ways, and coils in the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th ways. The 9-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires for the 4th and 7th routes, and coils for the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th routes.
[0056] Twill plain weave is divided into two main categories: left twill plain weave and right twill plain weave. The stitch arrangement can follow the 123, 321, 1234 or 4321 pattern. The stitch arrangement level is unlimited, with a maximum of about level 6. The yarn arrangement can be 1 twill + 2 plain weave, or 2 twill + 1 plain weave, or a variety of combinations such as 1+3, 1+4, 2+2, 2+3, etc.
[0057] Example 8 like Figure 12 As shown, the fabric presented in this embodiment is a woven 3-segment random-needle serrated fabric with 8 structural units, wherein: The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the first and fifth lines being floating lines and the second, third, fourth, sixth, seventh, and eighth lines being coiled lines; The 8-way structural unit in the second coil consists of floating wires in the 1st, 3rd, and 7th ways, and coiled wires in the 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, and 8th ways. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires for the 3rd, 5th, and 7th channels, and coiled wires for the 1st, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th channels.
[0058] The random pattern and triangular arrangement are unlimited, and can be a random and irregular arrangement, but the total number of triangles is limited to 108 or less.
[0059] Starting from the end use of the fabric and based on the performance requirements of the product, we develop diversified weft-knitted twill fabrics that can meet the requirements of high elasticity, high density and have a simulated woven effect by combining cotton with high-elasticity, high-shrinkage yarn / spandex filler yarn and combining the weave structure.
[0060] Experimental method: Combining different yarn interlacing combinations with weave structure and yarn threading cycle.
[0061] Although the present invention has been disclosed above with reference to preferred embodiments, it is not intended to limit the present invention. Anyone skilled in the art can make various modifications and alterations without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, the scope of protection of the present invention should be determined by the claims.
Claims
1. A multi-faceted knitted twill fabric mimicking woven fabric, characterized in that, The knitted multi-faceted twill fabric is woven on a weft-knitted single-sided circular knitting machine, comprising terry yarn and ground yarn, which are woven together in two rows to form a complete loop. The terry yarn forms a terry structure consisting of loops and floats, while the ground yarn is formed by locking the previous row with full-needle plain knit to create a twill structure. The terry yarn is combed compact spun cotton staple fiber, and the ground yarn includes T8 polyester fiber and elastic spandex filament. The fabric structure includes imitation woven 3-segment needle left twill fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle left twill fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle right twill fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle right twill fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle herringbone fabric structure, imitation woven 4-segment needle herringbone fabric structure, imitation woven 3-segment needle twill plain weave fabric structure, or imitation woven 3-segment needle random pattern toothed weave fabric structure.
2. The knitted multi-faceted twill fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The simulated woven 3-section needle left twill fabric has 6 structural units, of which: Routes 1, 3, and 5 are terry yarn, while routes 2, 4, and 6 are ground yarn; The first coil has a 6-way structural unit with the 3rd and 5th ways being floating wires, the 2nd, 4th, and 6th ways being coiled wires, and the 1st way being a coiled wire. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the second coil consists of 1st and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 3rd lateral line as coiled line. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 1st and 3rd lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 5th lateral line as coiled line.
3. The woven-look knitted twill fabric with multiple weave patterns according to claim 1, characterized in that, The simulated woven 4-segment needle left twill fabric has 8 structural units, of which: Routes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are ground yarn; The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the 3rd, 5th, and 7th lines being floating lines, the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lines being coiled lines, and the 1st line being a coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the second coil is as follows: the 1st, 5th, and 7th ways are floating wires; the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th ways are coiled wires; and the 3rd way is a coiled wire. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 1st, 3rd, and 7th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 5th lateral line as coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 4th coil consists of 1st, 3rd, and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 7th lateral line as coiled line.
4. The woven-look knitted twill fabric with multiple weave patterns according to claim 1, characterized in that, The simulated woven 3-section right-hand twill fabric has 6 structural units, of which: Routes 1, 3, and 5 are terry yarn, while routes 2, 4, and 6 are ground yarn; The first coil has a 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction, with the first and third ways being floating wires, the second, fourth, and sixth ways being coiled wires, and the fifth way being a coiled wire; The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the second coil consists of 1st and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 3rd lateral line as coiled line. The 6-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of 3rd and 5th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th and 6th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 1st lateral line as coiled line.
5. The woven-look knitted twill fabric with multiple weave patterns according to claim 1, characterized in that, The simulated woven 4-segment right-hand twill fabric has 8 structural units, of which: Routes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are ground yarn; The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the first, third, and fifth lines being floating lines, the second, fourth, sixth, and eighth lines being coiled lines, and the seventh line being a coiled line. The 8-way structural unit in the second coil is as follows: the 1st, 3rd, and 7th ways are floating wires; the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th ways are coiled wires; and the 5th way is a coiled wire. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires in the 1st, 5th, and 7th channels, coiled wires in the 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th channels, and coiled wire in the 3rd channel. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 4th coil consists of 3rd, 5th, and 7th lateral lines as floating lines, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th lateral lines as coiled lines, and 1st lateral line as coiled line.
6. The woven-look knitted twill fabric with multiple weave patterns according to claim 1, characterized in that, The simulated woven 3-segment herringbone fabric has a structural unit with 90 rows as one cycle, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5...19 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6...20 are ground yarn; The structural unit of the first coil longitudinal section is that the 1st, 7th, and 15th sections are loops, the 3rd, 5th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 17th, and 19th sections are floats, and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the second coil longitudinal section are: the 3rd, 9th, 13th, and 19th sections are loops; the 1st, 5th, 7th, 11th, 15th, and 17th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural unit of the third coil longitudinal section is that the 5th, 11th, and 17th sections are loops, the 1st, 3rd, 7th, 9th, 13th, 15th, and 19th sections are floats, and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops; The simulated woven 4-segment herringbone fabric has a structural unit with 90 rows forming a cycle, wherein: Routes 1, 3, 5...27 are terry yarn, and routes 2, 4, 6...28 are ground yarn; The structural unit of the first coil longitudinal section is that the 1st, 9th, and 21st sections are loops, the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 23rd, 25th, and 27th sections are floats, and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the second coil longitudinal section are: the 3rd, 11th, 19th, and 27th sections are loops; the 1st, 5th, 7th, 9th, 13th, 15th, 17th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural units of the third coil longitudinal section are: the 5th, 13th, 17th, and 25th sections are loops; the 1st, 3rd, 7th, 9th, 11th, 15th, 19th, 21st, 23rd, and 27th sections are floats; and the remaining ground yarn sections are loops. The structural unit of the fourth coil longitudinal row consists of the 7th, 15th, and 23rd rows as loops, the 1st, 3rd, 5th, 9th, 11th, 13th, 17th, 19th, 21st, 25th, and 27th rows as floats, and the remaining yarn rows as loops.
7. The woven-look knitted twill fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The simulated woven 3-section needle twill plain weave fabric has 9 structural units, of which: The first, fourth, and seventh tracks are terry yarn, while the rest are ground yarn; The first coil has 9 longitudinal structural units, with the first and fourth lines being floating lines and the second, third, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, and ninth lines being coiled lines; The 9-way structural unit in the second coil is composed of floating wires in the 1st and 7th ways, and coils in the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th ways. The 9-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires for the 4th and 7th routes, and coils for the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th routes.
8. The woven-look knitted twill fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The fabric is a woven, three-section random-needle patterned fabric with eight structural units, including: The first coil has 8 longitudinal structural units, with the first and fifth lines being floating lines and the second, third, fourth, sixth, seventh, and eighth lines being coiled lines; The 8-way structural unit in the second coil consists of floating wires in the 1st, 3rd, and 7th ways, and coiled wires in the 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th, and 8th ways. The 8-way structural unit in the longitudinal direction of the 3rd coil consists of floating wires for the 3rd, 5th, and 7th channels, and coiled wires for the 1st, 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th channels.
9. The woven-look knitted twill fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The loop length of the terry yarn is 7cm / 99G to 18cm / 99G, the loop length of the polyester fiber in the ground yarn is 16cm / 99G to 40cm / 99G, and the loop length of the elastic fiber is 7cm / 99G to 13cm / 99G; the needle pitch of the weft knitting single-sided circular knitting machine is 18G to 44G, the cylinder diameter is 26 inches to 34 inches, the weight of the knitted fabric is 140g / m² to 400g / m², and the cut width is 130cm to 200cm.
10. A production process for a woven-look knitted twill fabric as described in any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1, Material Selection: The terry yarn is made of combed compact spun cotton staple fiber, and the ground yarn is made of polyester filament and elastic spandex filament. S2, Weaving: According to the needle arrangement diagram and cam configuration diagram, place the corresponding level of needles and cams on the weft knitting single-sided circular knitting machine, input the target yarn length value, and the yarn enters the knitting area under tension control. The needles knit into loops and interlock with each other under the control of the cam track. The greige fabric is curled downwards or swung by the pulling mechanism, so that the terry yarn forms a terry structure composed of loops and floats. The ground yarn uses full needle plain knitting to lock the previous path to form a twill structure. S3, Pretreatment: The fabric is refined and desized using a refining agent at a temperature below 85℃; S4, dyeing: Disperse dyes are selected and dyeing is carried out in a sodium acetate buffer dye bath with a stable pH of around 5. After dyeing, reduction washing is performed to remove the floating color. S5, Setting: The dyed fabric is set under low tension conditions for 30 to 60 seconds.