Cosmetic care and / or makeup composition comprising crosslinked polyglutamic acid

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising: - at least one aqueous phase gelled by crosslinked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of beauty, and particularly to compositions for use as exfoliating materials in care and / or cosmetic applications, which have sensory qualities when applied and are preferably composed of ingredients of natural origin. Background Technology

[0002] Today, consumers are looking for more natural beauty products made from naturally sourced ingredients. However, some synthetic ingredients are difficult to replace, especially silicone elastomers.

[0003] Silicone elastomers have achieved great success since their introduction to the cosmetic ingredients market, primarily due to their sensory benefits. These polymers do indeed impart a particularly pleasant feel to cosmetic formulations, characterized by softness, silkiness, or a powdery texture. Elastomers also provide a matte finish to the skin; these optical properties are known as "soft focus," which explains their application in many cosmetic and skincare products. Silicone elastomers also have the advantage of easily increasing the viscosity of certain anhydrous formulations or water-in-oil emulsions while improving their sensory properties, a phenomenon known as the "effet coussin."

[0004] However, silicone elastomers are non-naturally derived ingredients, and moreover, they are non-biodegradable.

[0005] There is currently a need for compositions that contain more naturally derived ingredients, especially those without silicone elastomers, without compromising the sensory properties of the cosmetic composition.

[0006] "Naturally derived ingredients" refer to ingredients that come from nature but have undergone physical transformation or extraction or chemical processing.

[0007] To the applicant's knowledge, these silicone elastomers cannot be replaced by a single component; some methods use superabsorbent water-based polymers for sensory properties (refreshing feel, cushioning effect, slippery feel), but these polymers are synthetic and controversial because they are considered plastic microbeads and therefore non-biodegradable. Examples include products with INCI names (e.g., sodium polyacrylate, acrylate crosslinked polymer-2 sodium, or sodium polyacrylate starch), such as Makimousse-12 from Kobo.

[0008] Therefore, there is a need for new, more natural waterborne gelling agent alternatives that are compatible with crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, such as those described by Grant Industries Inc. in application WO202141046 and named Gransense. TM Those that are sold.

[0009] However, the applicant emphasizes that the use of cross-linked poly-γ-glutamate (abbreviated as γ-PGA or PGA) (EP 1 563 831), known for its water-retaining and skin-moisturizing properties, in combination with cross-linked polyurethane elastomers (non-silicone elastomers) can produce stable and uniform compositions with sensory properties of refreshing feel, smoothness and cushioning effect upon application, compared to other aqueous gelling agents (e.g., cross-linked hyaluronic acid).

[0010] Therefore, the combination according to the invention constitutes an alternative to silicone elastomers for formulations containing an aqueous phase, which are favored for their refreshing effect upon application. Summary of the Invention

[0011] Therefore, the applicant has demonstrated that a beauty care and / or cosmetic composition comprising a combination of one of cross-linked γ-PGA hydrogels or salts thereof and an oil phase gelled by at least one non-silicone elastomer has a refreshing property and a "gummy / cushion" type sensory effect when applied, and does not use any silicone elastomer.

[0012] Therefore, according to a first aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or applying keratinocytes is provided, comprising: - At least one aqueous phase gelled from cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - At least one oil phase gelled from at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0013] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one amphiphilic compound.

[0014] The present invention also relates to a method for preparing the cosmetic composition as described above, comprising at least one step of mixing the following: - At least one aqueous phase gelled from cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - At least one oil phase gelled from at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0015] Finally, another object of the present invention is a cosmetic method for caring for and / or applying keratinous materials (particularly lip or facial skin), comprising applying a cosmetic composition as described above to said keratinous material.

[0016] "Cosmetic composition" means any composition intended for cosmetic (i.e., aesthetic) purposes that can come into contact with superficial parts of the human body, more particularly with keratinous materials, especially with human skin and / or lips.

[0017] "Physiologically acceptable media" refers to any excipient suitable for topical application, in contact with keratinous materials, and without the risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, and / or allergic reactions.

[0018] According to the present invention, "keratinous material" refers to skin and / or its appendages, more particularly to human skin and / or lips. Specifically, it includes facial skin, neck and / or body, and lips. The keratinous material in the context of this invention is healthy, that is, free from any disease or abnormality indicating a pathological state (i.e., "unhealthy" or a subject suffering from a condition). In this specification, the terms "healthy skin and / or lips" or "skin and / or lips" will be used interchangeably. Detailed Implementation

[0019] The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention can be used as cosmetic and / or skin care compositions.

[0020] This cosmetic composition offers the benefits of a refreshing feel, application comfort (especially the "rolling effect on the skin"), and blurred optical properties, while being free of silicone elastomers.

[0021] The composition can be an oil-in-water (H / E) emulsion or a reverse water-in-oil (E / H) emulsion.

[0022] The composition can also be a gel / gel formulation consisting of two gelation phases, one aqueous and the other oily. Such gel / gel formulations are known to those skilled in the art, particularly those in patent application FR 3 002 449.

[0023] According to this embodiment of the invention, the composition is characterized in that the aqueous phase and the oil phase form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, that is, a gel / gel formulation.

[0024] A "macroscopically homogeneous mixture" is defined as a mixture in which each gelled phase is indistinguishable to the naked eye; in other words, two gelled phases form an interpenetrating macroscopic domain, thereby forming a stable, homogeneous, and consistent formulation. It is called a "gel / gel" formulation because both phases have a gel-like texture.

[0025] According to one particular embodiment, the skincare and / or cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a fluid galen or a gel.

[0026] gelled aqueous phase The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one aqueous phase gelled from cross-linked polyglutamic acid or a salt thereof.

[0027] Polyglutamic acid or one of its salts Polyglutamic acid, also known as poly-γ-glutamic acid or "natto gum," abbreviated as γ-PGA, is a naturally derived polymer produced by microorganisms, particularly Bacillus spp. ( Bacillus), for example, Bacillus licheniformis ( B. licheniformis ) and Bacillus subtilis ( B. subtilis ), especially known as Bacillus natto ( B. natto A variant of ).

[0028] It is a polymer of glutamic acid, wherein the peptide bond is located between the amino group of one residue and the carboxyl group of another residue. It can consist of L-glutamic acid, D-glutamic acid, or a racemic mixture of the two enantiomers.

[0029] The polymer can be crosslinked using various methods known to those skilled in the art. In particular, crosslinking of γ-PGA can be achieved by irradiation with gamma rays or electron beams, or by the action of chemical crosslinking agents.

[0030] Preferably, γ-PGA is crosslinked by electron beam irradiation.

[0031] After crosslinking, γ-PGA becomes a hydrophilic gelling agent with high water absorption capacity, capable of forming "hydrogels" (aqueous gels) in low percentage mixtures.

[0032] The crosslinked polymer can be used in the form of salts, including sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, or any combination of these salts.

[0033] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition is gelled by cross-linked sodium γ-PGA salt.

[0034] This cross-linked γ-PGA salt in the form of an aqueous gel (hydrogel) is supplied by TOA KASEI and is available in two forms: one containing 2% active material, named TOA SPR-2, and the other containing 12% active material, named TOA SPR-12.

[0035] According to one embodiment of the invention, the percentage of crosslinked γ-PGA or one of its salts in the composition is 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] The aqueous phase of the composition contains an aqueous solution of γ-PGA.

[0037] According to one embodiment of the invention, the percentage of crosslinked γ-PGA or one of its salts in the aqueous phase is 0.2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0038] The aqueous phase of the composition contains water and possibly a water-soluble solvent.

[0039] According to the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is a liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include: - Lower C1-C5 monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol; -C2-C8 diols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, pentanediol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 diols; -C2-C32 polyols, such as glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. and its mixtures.

[0040] It may also contain additional hydrophilic gelling agents (unlike γ-PGA), antioxidants, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one polyol in the aqueous phase, preferably selected from glycerol or glycol or a combination thereof, more preferably a combination of glycerol, butanediol and hexanediol.

[0042] The presence of at least one polyol in the aqueous phase of the composition enables it to provide moisturizing properties to the cosmetic composition.

[0043] Typically, the aqueous and oil phases forming the compositions according to the invention will be present in a weight ratio of 95 / 5 to 5 / 95, particularly 30 / 70 to 80 / 20. Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the ratio between the two phases according to the desired optical and sensory properties. Preferably, for clear, hazy compositions, a water / oil phase weight ratio of 60 / 40 to 80 / 20 may be advantageous.

[0044] The viscosity of the phase can be measured using techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0045] Specifically, viscosity measurements were performed on the formulation samples at 25°C using a rheometer connected to Rhéolab QC software. The rotors used for all measurements were "ailette" geometry rotors. Measurements were taken for 3 minutes at a rotation speed of 100 rpm.

[0046] In the case of gel / gel formulations, it is advantageous for the viscosity of the aqueous and oil phases to be close.

[0047] gelled oil phase The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one oil phase gelled from at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0048] gelling agents for the oil phase The oil phase of the composition according to the invention is gelled in the presence of at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0049] "Elastomer" refers to a cross-linked polymer that has elastic properties.

[0050] The first example of a non-silicone elastomer is a cross-linked polyester derived from castor oil.

[0051] Another example of a non-silicone elastomer is a cross-linked polyurethane elastomer.

[0052] Crosslinked polyurethane elastomers can be obtained, in particular, in gel form, wherein the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is dispersed in at least one solvent. Non-silicone elastomer gels may contain one or more crosslinked polyurethane elastomers.

[0053] Preferably, the polyurethane elastomer is micronized (with a particle size of 1 to 100 μm in diameter, preferably 1 to 60 μm).

[0054] Therefore, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel or copolymer used in this invention can consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), said elastomer (copolymer) or elastomer (copolymer) mixture being obtained by reacting (poly)isocyanate with a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a cosmetic solvent under conditions for forming a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer. In particular, a urethane esterification reaction catalyst, such as a bismuth- or zinc-based catalyst, is used.

[0055] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomers or copolymers of the present invention are advantageously bio-based, that is, obtained from naturally derived raw materials (85%, preferably 90%, or even 95% bio-based). Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment, the proportion of the prepolymer, (poly)isocyanate, and cosmetic solvent being of natural origin (e.g., plant-based) is greater than 85%, or even greater than 95%.

[0056] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the present invention may consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), wherein the copolymer or mixture of copolymers is obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate and at least one solvent, particularly from a dimer or trimer of a carboxylic acid (preferably C16-C20 carboxylic acid), a polyol and a diisocyanate.

[0057] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol is selected from aliphatic diols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms (e.g., 1,2-ethylene glycol, propylene glycol such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, octyl glycol, preferably propylene glycol and butylene glycol); fatty acid triglycerides containing at least two -OH groups (e.g., ricinoleic acid triglycerides or plant sources containing them, such as castor oil).

[0058] According to a particular embodiment, the prepolymer is a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and propylene glycol (DAPD) or a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and butanediol (DABP).

[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)isocyanate is a diisocyanate, particularly an aliphatic diisocyanate containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI), or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate trimer may be mentioned as a preferred (poly)isocyanate.

[0060] Therefore, according to a particular embodiment of the present invention: - Prepolymers having at least two hydroxyl groups are copolymers of carboxylic acid dimers or trimers with polyols, particularly copolymers of C12-C18 fatty acid dimers (preferably dilinoleic acid) with polyols selected from aliphatic diols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms (e.g., 1,2-ethylene glycol, propylene glycol such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, octyl glycol, preferably propylene glycol and butylene glycol); fatty acid triglycerides containing at least two -OH groups (e.g., ricinoleic acid triglycerides or plant-derived compounds containing them, such as castor oil); and - (Poly)isocyanates are diisocyanates, particularly aliphatic diisocyanates that may contain 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably selected from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI).

[0061] Esters, ethers, alkanes, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned as cosmetic solvents for the synthesis of crosslinked polyurethane elastomers and / or the formation of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gels. According to a particular embodiment, the following may be used: plant-derived triglycerides, such as trihexanoate, triheptanoate (triheptyl), tricaprylyl, cocoyl octanoate / decanoate, and C9-C22 alkanes, such as undecane and tridecane; naturally derived esters and mixtures thereof, preferably triheptanoate (triheptyl), cocoyl octanoate / decanoate, and C9-C22 alkanes.

[0062] Therefore, according to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane elastomer gel or copolymer of the present invention comprises at least one solvent selected from plant-derived triglycerides, such as trihexanoate, triheptanoate (triheptyl), tricaprylyl, cocoyl octanoate / decanoate, C9-C22 alkanes, such as undecane, tridecane; naturally derived esters and mixtures thereof, preferably triheptanoate (triheptyl), cocoyl octanoate / decanoate, C9-C22 alkanes, naturally derived esters and mixtures thereof.

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used in the composition according to the invention may contain 5 to 30% by weight, particularly 5 to 17% by weight, of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer active material, and 70 to 95% by weight, particularly 83 to 95% by weight, of solvent.

[0064] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel, the gel comprising at least one solvent and a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, the elastomer or the mixture of the elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate.

[0065] Elastomer gels may contain at least one solvent and a cross-linked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of cross-linked polyurethane elastomers.

[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used according to the present invention is the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel prepared in Example 6 or Example 9 of International Patent Application WO202141046 of Grant Industries Inc. The prepolymer is a copolymer of C8 dimer acid and 1,3-propanediol (DAPD) or a copolymer of C8 dimer acid and 1,4-butanediol (DABD), the polyisocyanate is a trimer of pentylene diisocyanate (PDT), the catalyst is bismuth neodecanoate, and the solvent is a mixture of cocoyl octanoate / decanoate and triheptanoate. A concentrated gel is then formed by micronizing the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and adding triheptanoate. The concentrated gel is then diluted by adding C9-C12 alkanes (Vegelight 1214).

[0067] This type of crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel is manufactured by Grant Industries under the name Gransense. TM Sale.

[0068] Therefore, according to a particular embodiment, one of the copolymers of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer or mixture is obtained from dilinoleic acid, propylene glycol or butanediol and pentamethylene diisocyanate.

[0069] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the present invention can be described as a non-silicone elastomer of polyester nature, having INCI names: polyurethane-10 elastomer or polyurethane-100 elastomer.

[0070] The following example of a business reference number from Grant Industries Inc. is worth mentioning: - GRANSENSE TC-11X, INCI name: Cocoyl octanoate / decanoate (and) triheptyl (and) polyurethane-10 elastomer; and - GRANSENSE TC-8X, INCI name: Cocoyl alcohol-octanoate / decanoate (and) triheptyl (and) C9-12 alkane (and) polyurethane-100 elastomer.

[0071] According to another particular embodiment, the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel or copolymer of the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said mixture being obtained from a dilinoleic acid / polyol prepolymer and isophorone diisocyanate, wherein the two polyols are butanediol and castor oil.

[0072] Therefore, according to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers or copolymers of the present invention, said mixture being obtained from dilinoleic acid / two polyol prepolymers and isophorone diisocyanate, wherein the two polyols are butanediol and castor oil. For example, the mixture comprises a first copolymer obtained from dilinoleic acid and butanediol, and a second copolymer obtained from isophorone diisocyanate and castor oil. The mixture of these two elastomers or copolymers may have the following INCI name: - Triheptyl alcohol (and) coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / caprylate (and) dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (and) castor oil / IPDI copolymer elastomer, or - Cocoyl alcohol-octanoate / caprylate (and) triheptyl alcohol (and) C9-12 alkane (and) dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (and) castor oil / IPDI copolymer elastomer.

[0073] More specifically, chemical compounds such as dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer and castor oil / IPDI copolymer can be used, as exemplified by GRANSENSE. TM The products sold include.

[0074] The following business reference number from Grant Industries Inc. is particularly noteworthy: - GRANSENSE TC-18X-C, INCI name: Cocoyl octanoate / caprylate (and) triheptyl ether (and) C9-12 alkane (and) dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (and) castor oil / IPDI copolymer - GRANSENSE TC-21X-C, INCI name: Triheptyl (and) Cocoyl alcohol-caprylate / caprylate (and) Dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (and) Castor oil / IPDI copolymer - GRANSENSE TC-21X-SBC, INCI name: Triheptyl (and) Cocoyl alcohol-caprylate / caprylate (and) Dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (and) Castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (fruit fat).

[0075] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer (alone or a mixture of two elastomers or copolymers) of the present invention will generally be present in the composition at a total raw material content of 5% to 60% by weight, particularly 10% to 50% by weight, particularly 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer (alone or a mixture of two copolymers) of the present invention will generally be present in the composition at a total dry (active) content of 0.5% to 5% by weight, particularly 1% to 3% by weight, particularly 2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] The oil phase may further include an "oil phase structurer," which is particularly selected from waxes, other gelling agents different from those described above, paste-like fats and mixtures thereof.

[0078] In particular, when combined with crosslinked polyesters and / or crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, other oily gelling agents, especially those of natural origin, may be present in the oil phase of the compositions according to the invention.

[0079] Therefore, according to a particular implementation, the oil phase further comprises hydroxystearic acid.

[0080] Such oil-based gelling agents are commercially available, particularly under the name CASID® HSA, which is marketed by Vertellus.

[0081] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise an oil phase gelled from at least one crosslinked polyurethane elastomer, said oil phase comprising 15 to 40% by weight, particularly 20 to 35% by weight, more preferably 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] The oil phase of the composition may contain an additional oil different from the oils used to synthesize crosslinked polyurethane elastomers described above.

[0083] Preferably, a different hydrocarbon oil should be used.

[0084] In particular, the hydrocarbon oil can be selected from saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C10-C26 liquid fatty alcohols, ester oils, vegetable oils, triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Examples of vegetable oils include sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Of particular note regarding ester oils is: - Esters of fatty alcohols and C8-C18 fatty acids, especially coconut oil alcohol-caprylate / capric acid esters, which are esters of naturally derived fatty alcohols (e.g., coconut), caprylic acid, and capric acid. - Fatty acid esters, especially those with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, - Synthetic esters, such as oils having the chemical formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a residue of a straight-chain or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain (especially a branched hydrocarbon chain) containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2≥16, for example, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate, and 2-diethylhexyl succinate. - Straight-chain fatty acid esters with a total carbon number of 35 to 70; - Hydroxylated esters, preferably with a total carbon number of 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglycerol-10 pentaisostearate, polyglycerol-10 nonaisostearate, lactate isostearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, glyceryl stearate; diethylene glycol diisonononate; - Esters of aromatic acids and alcohols containing 4 to 22 atoms; - Esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids; - Oligomeric dimer polyesters obtained by the reaction of fatty alcohols with dimer fatty acids; particularly noteworthy are dimer dilinoleyl alcohol dimer dilinoleate (e.g., Lusplan). TM ); - Esters of amino acid derivatives; N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di(phytosteryl octyl dodecyl) ester (e.g., Eldew®) may be mentioned in particular. - Polyesters produced by esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride with aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and aliphatic dicarboxylic acid (which may be unsaturated); - and its mixtures.

[0087] Amphiphilic compounds According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one amphiphilic compound.

[0088] These amphiphilic compounds possess both hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups. These compounds promote the homogeneous mixing of the aqueous and oil phases present in the compositions according to the invention.

[0089] Preferably, the amphiphilic compound is selected from: - C6-C30 (especially C10-C20, preferably C12-C20) polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, - C16-C22 fatty alcohols, - Nonionic surfactants, and - Its mixture.

[0090] Any combination of these amphiphilic compounds can be present in the compositions according to the invention.

[0091] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises C6-C30 (especially C10-C20, preferably C12-C20) polyglycerol and fatty acid esters as amphiphilic compounds.

[0092] Fatty acids may be selected from citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic acid or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18) and mixtures thereof.

[0093] As esters of polyglycerol and fatty acids used according to the present invention, the following compounds are particularly noteworthy: polyglycerol-4-decanoate, polyglycerol-2-decanoate, polyglycerol-4-caprylate, polyglycerol-6-caprylate, polyglycerol-6-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-cocoate, polyglycerol-4-cocoate, polyglycerol-10-linoleate, polyglycerol-10-oleate, polyglycerol-10-ricinoleate, polyglycerol-3-didecanoate, polyglycerol-3-dicocoate, polyglycerol-10-didecanoate, polyglycerol-2-diisostearate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, polyglycerol-10-diisostearate, polyglycerol-4-dilaurate, polyglycerol-2-dioleate, polyglycerol-3-dioleate, and polyglycerol-6-dioleate. Polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-6 dispalmitate, polyglycerol-10 dispalmitate, polyglycerol-2 dihydroxystearate, polyglycerol-2 distearate, polyglycerol-3 distearate, polyglycerol-6 distearate, polyglycerol-10 distearate, polyglycerol-10 heptaoleate, polyglycerol-10 heptaoleate, polyglycerol-6 hexaoleate, polyglycerol-10 hexaoleate, polyglycerol-2 isopalmitate, polyglycerol-2 isostearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-5 isostearate, polyglycerol-6 isostearate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-2 laurate, polyglycerol-3 laurate, polyglycerol-4 laurate, polyglycerol-5 laurate Polyglycerol esters, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-3 myristate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-4 oleate, polyglycerol-5 oleate, polyglycerol-6 oleate, polyglycerol-8 oleate, polyglycerol-10 dioleate, polyglycerol-3 palmitate, polyglycerol-6 palmitate, polyglycerol-10 pentalaurate, polyglycerol-10 pentalinoleate, polyglycerol-4 pentaoleate, polyglycerol-10 pentaoleate, polyglycerol-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglycerol-6 pentastearate, polyglycerol-10 pentastearate, polyglycerol-4 pentastearate, polyglycerol-6 pentastearate, polyglycerol-10 pentastearate Fatty acid esters, polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate, polyglycerol-6 polyricinoleate, polyglycerol-3 ricinoleate, polyglycerol-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglycerol-2 sesquioleate, polyglycerol-2 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-3 stearate, polyglycerol-2 stearate, polyglycerol-4 stearate, polyglycerol-8 stearate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, polyglycerol-6 tetraoleate, polyglycerol-10 tetraoleate, polyglycerol-2 tetrastearate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, polyglycerol-3 triisostearate, polyglycerol-10 trioleate, polyglycerol-4 tristearate, polyglycerol tristearate, polyglycerol-10 tristearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] According to a preferred embodiment, the amphiphilic compound is selected from polyglycerol-3 laurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] For example, the compound polyglycerol-3-laurate is commercially available, particularly under the trade name HYDRAMOLTGL ESTER MB.

[0096] The compound polyglycerol-6-laurate is specifically included in products with the trade name FLUIDIFEEL EASY.

[0097] The compound polyglycerol-10 laurate is specifically included in products with the trade name S-FACE 10G-L.

[0098] The compound polyglycerol-10 isostearate is specifically included in products with the trade name S-FACE IS-1001P.

[0099] The compound polyglycerol-3 diisostearate is specifically included in products with the trade name BENTONE® LUXE WN.

[0100] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a C16-C22 fatty alcohol as an amphiphilic compound.

[0101] The term "C16-C22 fatty alcohol" refers to saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight-chain alcohols, more particularly monohydric alcohols, containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of C16-C22 fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include straight-chain or branched C16-C22 fatty alcohols, whether synthetic or natural. Preferred examples of fatty alcohols particularly include stearyl alcohol (C18), isostearyl alcohol (C18), oleyl alcohol (C18), 2-hexyldecyl alcohol (C16), isocetyl alcohol (C16), octyldodecyl alcohol (C20), and mixtures thereof.

[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, the amphiphilic compound is selected from stearyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.

[0103] For example, isostearyl alcohol (INCI name: isostearyl alcohol) is specifically included in products with the trade name EMULFREE CGB MB.

[0104] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a nonionic surfactant as an amphiphilic compound.

[0105] Examples of nonionic surfactants include alkyl glycosides and sorbitol esters.

[0106] Alkyl glycosides are preferably selected from lauryl glycosides, myristyl glycosides, and combinations thereof.

[0107] The combination of lauryl glycoside and myristyl glycoside is specifically included in products with the trade name FLUIDIFEEL EASY.

[0108] Among dehydrated sorbitol esters, there are hydrophilic and lipophilic dehydrated sorbitol esters.

[0109] Advantageously, in the compositions according to the invention, lipophilic sorbitol esters with an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance value) less than or equal to 6 are used.

[0110] Examples of lipophilic sorbitan esters include sorbitan monostearate (HLB = 4.7), sorbitan monoisostearate (HLB = 5), sorbitan sesquiisostearate (HLB = 4.5), and sorbitan sesquioleate (HLB = 3.7).

[0111] According to a particular embodiment, the amphiphilic compound present in the composition is sorbitan sesquiisostearate.

[0112] For example, such compounds are included in products with the trade name SALACOS 182 V.

[0113] Therefore, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is selected from polyglycerol-3 laurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl glycoside, myristyl glycoside, and sorbitan sesquiisostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0114] In some specific cases, particularly when the composition according to the invention is in the form of a reverse oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetic composition advantageously comprises a combination of at least two amphiphilic compounds.

[0115] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is a combination of polyglycerol-6 lauryl ester, lauryl glycoside, and myristyl glycoside.

[0116] This combination is commercially available, for example in a commercially available product called FLUIDIFEEL EASY (INCI name: lauryl glycoside (and) myristyl glycoside (and) polyglycerol-6 lauryl ester).

[0117] According to another embodiment of the invention, the amphiphilic compound is a combination of polyglycerol-3-laurate and stearyl alcohol.

[0118] This combination is commercially available, for example, it is included in the commercially available product EMULFREE CGB MB.

[0119] Other combinations of amphiphilic compounds can be used, including by combining multiple commercially available products.

[0120] For example, it would be advantageous to use a combination of sorbitan sesquiisostearate (as contained in product SALACOS 182 V) and polyglycerol-3 diisostearate (as contained in product BENTONE® LUXE WN).

[0121] The total content of the amphiphilic compound in the composition of the present invention will be particularly 1 to 12% by weight, especially 3 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Other additional compounds The compositions according to the invention may advantageously also contain additional compounds, particularly selected from dispersants, emulsifiers, film-forming agents, fillers, coloring materials (especially pigments), antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] According to a particular implementation scheme, the additional compound will be selected from fillers, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises a filler.

[0125] The presence of one or more fillers enables matte effects, as well as blurring and filling effects, to be applied to the skincare and / or cosmetic compositions of the present invention. The optical properties of the cosmetic compositions are generally achieved through the presence of at least one filler. For a blurring or "soft-focus" effect, it should be understood that the fillers used according to the present invention can reduce the visibility of skin imperfections through immediate optical effects.

[0126] "Filler" refers to any colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particulate material of any shape that is insoluble in the composition medium. These fillers are specifically used to improve the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a matte finish. Fillers can be mineral or organic and can have any shape: flakes, spheres, or ellipses.

[0127] The filler according to the invention is specifically selected from: cellulose powder, lauroyl lysine, lauroyl lysine fermented by yeast (Saccharomyces), boron nitride powder, silica powder, silica powder treated with lauroyl lysine, starch powder, calcium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] According to a preferred embodiment, the filler present in the composition of the present invention is a lipophilic filler.

[0129] According to a particular embodiment, the filler used in the composition according to the invention is particularly selected from silica (especially silica powder), such as those sold under the name Sunsphere H33, and yeast-fermented lauroyl lysine under the INCI name of yeast fermentation lauroyl lysine, such as those sold by Grant Industries under the name Granpowder BBP-700.

[0130] The fillers may be treated or left untreated to promote their dispersion in the aqueous or oil phase of the composition (preferably oil phase fillers).

[0131] The total content of the filler according to the invention will be particularly 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one coloring material, particularly at least one pigment.

[0133] For the purposes of this invention, a coloring material is defined as a compound that, when formulated in sufficient quantities in a suitable cosmetic medium, can produce a colored optical effect. The coloring material may be selected from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof, whether soluble or insoluble in the oil phase of this invention.

[0134] "Pigment" refers to white or colored, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions and are intended to color and / or make opaque the resulting sediment.

[0135] In a particular manner, the pigments are specifically selected from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), mother-of-pearl or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] Examples of “mineral pigments” include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), which can be surface-treated; black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and iron blue.

[0137] In the category of "organic pigments," examples that can be mentioned include pigments such as D&C Red 19; D&C Red 9; D&C Red 22; D&C Red 21; D&C Red 28; D&C Yellow 6; D&C Orange 4; D&C Orange 5; D&C Red 27; D&C Red 13; D&C Red 7; D&C Red 6; D&C Yellow 5; D&C Red 36; D&C Red 33; D&C Orange 10; D&C Yellow 6; D&C Red 30; D&C Red 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black; and carmine-based lakes.

[0138] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least iron oxide.

[0139] Pigments and fillers may be surface-treated or not to promote their dissolution in the aqueous or oil phase of the emulsion. In particular, the pigments are dispersed in the oil phase of the present invention.

[0140] Advantageously, the pigment is surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent to improve dispersion in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is particularly selected from metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate; diisostearoyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids and mixtures thereof, especially N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0141] In particular, when present in the composition, the pigment is present in a total content of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized in that it contains less than 5% by weight of a silicone compound relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight of a silicone compound relative to the total weight of the composition, or even contains no silicone compound.

[0143] Preparation method The present invention also relates to a method for preparing the cosmetic composition as described above, comprising at least one step of mixing the following: - At least one aqueous phase gelled from cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - At least one oil phase gelled from at least one non-silicone elastomer.

[0144] Depending on the desired formulation of the composition according to the invention, those skilled in the art will adjust the method according to their common sense to obtain an oil-in-water (H / E) or water-in-oil (E / H) emulsion formulation or a gel / gel formulation.

[0145] According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation method is carried out under conditions that favor obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

[0146] Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust the ratio between the two gel phases according to the desired optical and sensory properties. Preferably, for a clear, hazy composition, an aqueous / oil phase weight ratio of 60 / 40 to 80 / 20 may be advantageous.

[0147] Beauty methods The present invention also relates to a method for caring for and / or cosmetically applying keratin materials (particularly lip or facial skin), comprising applying a cosmetic composition as described above to said keratin material.

[0148] As described above, a combination of at least one aqueous phase gelled from cross-linked polyglutamic acid or its salt and at least one oil phase gelled from at least one non-silicone elastomer can yield a composition for use as a care and / or cosmetic keratinizing material, which has characteristics similar to those obtained with silicone elastomers, but without containing the silicone elastomers: particularly during its application, a refreshing and rolling effect on the skin, with a “cushion-like effect” type of application comfort.

[0149] The present invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, percentages (%) are expressed as a weight percentage of the raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Example Example 1. Comparison of formulations comprising an aqueous phase gelled from a cross-linked hydrophilic polymer (cross-linked poly-γ-glutamate or cross-linked sodium hyaluronate polymer). Under the same conditions, several aqueous gels were prepared using different hydrophilic polymers with the same concentration of active material and preparation method: - Using cross-linked poly-γ-glutamate sodium (also known as cross-linked γ-PGA): ready-to-use gel TOA SPR 2 with 2% active ingredient, and - Using cross-linked hyaluronic acid in powder form (HYACROSS) TM TL 200 (sold by Bloomage Biotechnologies) is prepared by simply stirring with water to obtain an aqueous gel containing 2% by weight of active material.

[0151] The oily gel is a ready-to-use elastomer gel called Gransense. TM Specifically selected from the following business reference numbers: - GRANSENSE TC-18X-C, INCI name: Cocoyl octanoate / caprylate (and) triheptyl ether (and) C9-12 alkane (and) dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (and) castor oil / IPDI copolymer, - GRANSENSE TC-21X-C, INCI name: Triheptyl (and) Cocoyl alcohol-octanoate / caprylate (and) Dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (and) Castor oil / IPDI copolymer.

[0152] Then, each of these aqueous gels is combined with a non-silicone elastomer (Gransense) according to the following scheme. TM Mixing with an oily gel of an amphiphilic compound: - Add the amphiphilic compound to the oily gel Gransense by simple stirring. TM middle; - The resulting oily gel is added to the aqueous gel by stirring with a Rayneri emulsifier.

[0153] The compositions studied comprise: - 65% gelled aqueous phase, or water for comparison (control); - 30% of the gelled oil phase containing the commercially available product GRANSENSE TC-21X-C, and - 5% polyglycerol-3 lauryl ester as an amphiphilic compound.

[0154] These three formulations were evaluated by an expert panel based on the following aspects: centrifugal resistance (used to assess the stability of the composition) and sensory properties during application (slippery feel, powdery and soft finish, blurring effect during application).

[0155] The following notation is given: Regarding centrifugal stability: OK: Stable; X: Unstable, heterogeneous, visible separation of two phases (oil and water phases). Regarding sensory properties: ++: Excellent +: Good -: Unacceptable The results are presented in Table 1 below.

[0156] Table 1. Results Centrifugation test results are unfavorable for formulations containing cross-linked AH gels; that is, the mixture of the two phases does not remain homogeneous when subjected to centrifugation. However, for compositions according to the invention containing cross-linked γ-PGA, the test is reliable.

[0157] Regarding the sensory properties during application, only formulations containing cross-linked γ-PGA provided satisfactory results in terms of a powdery finish and a smooth, cushion-like application. In contrast, the comparative formulation containing cross-linked hyaluronic acid gel was stringy and viscous, and did not provide a powdery effect (it felt like applying an extremely fine powder to the skin).

[0158] In summary, compared with non-silicone elastomers (Gransense) TM The gelled oil phase combination, using cross-linked γ-PGA as the hydrophilic gelling agent in the aqueous phase, produces a stable and visually uniform cosmetic composition compared to compositions containing another cross-linked hydrophilic gelling agent, which has a good gliding feel, powdery finish and a particularly pleasant application experience during application.

[0159] Example 2. Effects of amphiphilic compounds on the stability and sensory properties of the composition. As described in Example 1, compositions were prepared using different amphiphilic compounds, having the following composition: - 65% of the aqueous phase is gelled from cross-linked γ-PGA salt with 2% MA (with trade name TOA SPR 2). - 30% of the oil phase gelled by the commercially available product GRANSENSE TC-21X-C, and - 5% amphiphilic compounds.

[0160] The three amphiphilic compounds tested are as follows: - NEOSOLUE-AQUA S MB (Test K), INCI Name: Polyglycerol-10 eicosodecanedioate / tetradecanoic acid ester (and glycerol) - HYDRAMOL TGL ESTER MB (Test L), INCI name: Polyglycerol-3-laurate, and - FLORAESTERS K-20W JOJOBA (Test M), INCI name: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters and Water.

[0161] These three formulations were evaluated based on the following aspects: stability after centrifugation, sensory properties when applied to the skin, and makeup effect (slippery feel and gloss).

[0162] The following labels are given.

[0163] Regarding centrifugal stability: OK: Stable X: Unstable, heterogeneous, two phases (oil phase and water phase) are visible to separate.

[0164] Regarding sensory properties: ++: Excellent +: Good -: Unacceptable The results are presented in Table 2 below.

[0165] Table 2. Results These results indicate that the amphiphilic compound polyglycerol-3-laurate (test L) improves stability and sensory properties, particularly the slippery feel during application, compared to other amphiphilic compounds (test K and M).

[0166] Example 3. Effects of lipophilic fillers on the optical and sensory properties of oily gels The compositions studied comprise: - 76% or 92% gelled oil phase with non-silicone elastomers (ready-to-use, with trade name GRANSENSETC21XC); and - 8% or 24% lipophilic filler.

[0167] The lipophilic fillers tested were: SUNSPHERE H33 (INCI name: silica) and GRANDPOWDER BBP700 (INCI name: yeast ferment (and) lauroyl lysine).

[0168] These fillers are incorporated into the GRANSENSE elastomer. TM In the gelled oil phase.

[0169] These two formulations were evaluated based on the following aspects: ambiguity and sensory properties upon application.

[0170] The given markings are as follows: For blur effects: +: Good -: Poor For application: a description of the effect obtained.

[0171] The results are presented in Table 4 below.

[0172] Table 3. Results The use of lipophilic fillers (such as silica and yeast-fermented lauroyl lysine) improved the content of Gransense. TM The blurring effect of the oily gel and its sensory properties upon application ("smooth and with a cushion-like effect").

[0173] Alternatively, the inventors tested the benefits of adding hydrophilic fillers to the aqueous gel phase.

[0174] Therefore, aqueous gels containing different hydrophilic fillers were prepared, comprising: - 95% hydrogel containing polyglutamate with 2% MA (trade name TOA SPR 2); and - 5% hydrophilic filler.

[0175] It has been observed that adding hydrophilic fillers to aqueous gels does not simultaneously improve blurring, makeup finish, and skin comfort. In particular, flaking and / or insufficient blurring have been observed during application.

[0176] Therefore, it is particularly advantageous to use lipophilic fillers with blurring effects in the gelled oil phase, rather than hydrophilic fillers in the gelled aqueous phase.

[0177] Example 4. Formulation Several skin care and / or cosmetic compositions according to the present invention have been prepared and are presented in Tables 5, 6 and 7 below.

[0178] 4.1 Liquid Lip Makeup Product Formula Table 4. Examples of formulations This formulation is prepared according to the following procedure: - Stir phase A in a deflocculation mixer at 500 rpm. Add phase B to phase A and stir the mixture for 5 minutes. - Place CASID HSA in a 90°C water bath in a gransen. TM Melt in the middle, then cool the mixture while stirring. - Disperse the filler SOLESPHERE in GRANSENSE TM + CASID mixture to obtain phase C, Add phase D to phase C. Add mixture CD to AB and rapidly mix in a deflocculation mixer for 10 minutes, or until a smooth and homogeneous texture is obtained. Add phase E to the mixture and stir for 5 minutes. Add phase F to the mixture and stir for 5 minutes.

[0179] The resulting composition is stable and has a uniform appearance.

[0180] It glides smoothly onto the lips and provides a refreshing finish with a matte and long-lasting effect.

[0181] 4.2 Nursing Essence: Table 5. Examples of formulations This formulation is prepared according to the following cold process under Rayneri and includes the following steps: - Preparation of phase A: Formation of γ-PGA hydrogel Add water regularly to allow the gel to swell, stirring at 600 to 900 rpm and mixing with a spatula until a homogeneous and smooth gel is obtained.

[0182] Add phases A1 and B to phase A.

[0183] - Preparation of phase C: Add filler to the oily gel until a white and homogeneous gel is obtained.

[0184] - Introduce phase C into the mixture of A and B and keep stirring for 15 to 20 minutes.

[0185] The resulting composition is stable and has a uniform appearance.

[0186] Its application is comfortable (smooth, cushion-like application, with a rolling effect on the skin) and provides a refreshing feel. It also has optical properties that blur and fill in skin imperfections.

[0187] 4.3 Skin-toned primer: Table 6. Examples of formulations This formulation is prepared according to the following cold process under Rayneri conditions. It comprises the following steps: - Stirred phase A; - Add phase B to phase A and stir at approximately 500 rpm; - Preparation of phase C: Weigh each component, mix them, and grind them in a three-roll mill; - Add phase C to phase A; - Preparation of phase D: The filler is introduced into the oily gel until a white and homogeneous gel is obtained; - Add phase D to aqueous phase A while stirring at 600 rpm, and keep the mixture stirring for 15 to 20 minutes; - Add phase E to the mixture.

[0188] The resulting composition is stable and has a uniform appearance.

[0189] When applied to the skin, this skin-toned primer has a refreshing feel, a rolling effect on the skin, and a matte yet powdery finish.

[0190] 4.4 Skin-toned primers in reverse emulsion (water-in-oil) form This water-in-oil emulsion contains two amphiphilic compounds: - Sorbitol sesquiisostearate, contained in product SALACOS 182 V, and - Polyglycerol-3 diisostearate is included in the product BENTONE® LUXE WN.

[0191] Table 7. Examples of formulations This formulation is prepared according to the following cold process under an emulsifier. It includes the following steps: - Stirred phase A, - Preparation of phase A1: Weigh all components, mix them, and grind them in a three-roll mill. Then, add phase A1 to phase A at 1700 rpm. - Preparation of phase B: Weigh each component and mix them in a deflocculation stirrer at 350 rpm until a homogeneous phase is obtained. - Add phases B and B1 to phase A at 2500 rpm in an emulsifier. - Add phase B2 at 1800 rpm. - Add phase C to the mixture.

[0192] The resulting composition provides a rolling effect and a soft, matte finish during application.

[0193] References WO 2021 / 41046 EP 1 563 831 FR 3 002 449

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for use as a skincare and / or cosmetic exfoliant, comprising: - At least one aqueous phase gelled from cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - At least one oil phase gelled from at least one non-silicone elastomer.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that... The aqueous and oil phases form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that... The aqueous phase is gelled by cross-linked poly-γ-glutamic acid sodium (γ-PGA) salt.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that... The percentage of one of the cross-linked polyglutamic acid or its salt in the composition is 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that... The at least one non-silicone elastomer is a cross-linked polyurethane elastomer gel, the gel comprising at least one solvent and a single cross-linked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of at least two cross-linked polyurethane elastomers, the elastomer or the mixture of the elastomers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and (poly)isocyanate.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising at least one amphiphilic compound.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that... The amphiphilic compound is selected from C6-C30 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, C16-C22 fatty alcohols, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, wherein the C6-C30 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters are particularly C10-C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, preferably C12-C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that... The amphiphilic compounds are selected from polyglycerol-3 lauryl ester, polyglycerol-6 lauryl ester, polyglycerol-10 lauryl ester, polyglycerol-10 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl glycoside, myristyl glycoside, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising a filler, preferably a lipophilic filler, particularly silica and / or yeast-fermented lauroyl lysine with the INCI name of yeast fermentation lauroyl lysine.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising at least one coloring material, particularly at least one pigment.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that... The oil phase further comprises hydroxystearic acid.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that... The aqueous phase further comprises at least one polyol, preferably selected from glycerol or glycol or a combination thereof, more preferably a combination of glycerol, butanediol and hexanediol.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that... It contains less than 5% by weight of a silicone compound relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight of a silicone compound relative to the total weight of the composition, or even contains no silicone compound.

14. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least one step of mixing the following: - At least one aqueous phase gelled from cross-linked polyglutamic acid or one of its salts, and - At least one oil phase gelled from at least one non-silicone elastomer.

15. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or applying keratinized materials, particularly lip or facial skin, comprising applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratinized material.

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