A method of making a garment
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202611143731.0
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-07-30
- Publication Date
- 2026-09-15
Smart Images
Figure CN122744570A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This application relates to the field of garment pattern making technology, and more specifically, to a garment pattern making method. Background Technology
[0002] In the field of garment pattern making, the boyfriend-style slightly wide-shouldered design, as a popular style that blends unisex aesthetics with a relaxed feel, typically focuses on the following aspects in its pattern making:
[0003] Firstly, the shoulder line is one of the core elements of this type of design. Compared to traditional straight-shoulder suits, boyfriend-style wide-shoulder suits use a dropped shoulder design to make the shoulder line extend beyond the natural shoulder point of women, thereby visually creating a straight, broad, and slightly tough neutral silhouette, establishing the style tone of the entire garment.
[0004] Secondly, the design aims for a relaxed yet sophisticated feel, with the goal of creating a natural sense of looseness rather than a casual, sloppy look. This requires the garment's structure to maintain overall balance and clean lines while adding looseness, avoiding issues such as drooping shoulders, armpit bunching, or front sagging caused by excessive looseness, ensuring that the finished garment combines comfort and refinement.
[0005] Therefore, how to balance shoulder line design and pattern stability is a problem that urgently needs to be solved by those skilled in the art. Summary of the Invention
[0006] In view of this, the purpose of this application is to provide a garment pattern making method that takes into account both shoulder line shape and pattern stability.
[0007] To achieve the above objectives, this application provides the following technical solution:
[0008] A garment pattern making method, comprising the following steps:
[0009] S1. Obtain the front and back pieces of the straight-body pattern of the top;
[0010] S2. Balance the garment body and draw the basic structural lines. Rotate the front and back garment pieces respectively, and draw the bust line, waist line, hip line, center line, side seam line and shoulder line respectively.
[0011] S3. Extend the shoulder line and correct the armhole and body outline. Extend the front shoulder line outward by a first preset distance to obtain a new front shoulder point. Keep the armhole width at the new armpit point equal to the original armhole width. Extend the back shoulder line outward by a second preset distance to obtain a new back shoulder point. Connect the new armhole curve and the new side seam line. Correct the hip line, the bust line and the waist line accordingly.
[0012] S4. Draw the shaping lines and expand and adjust the local segments of the shaping lines. Draw the first shaping line on the front garment piece and the second shaping line on the back garment piece. Expand and adjust the first segment of the first shaping line, translate the second segment of the first shaping line, expand and adjust the third segment of the second shaping line, and translate the fourth segment of the second shaping line.
[0013] S5. Increase the compensation width of the side seam. Based on the length changes of the front and back garment pieces due to the unfolding and translation of the shaping lines, increase the compensation width at the front and back side seams respectively.
[0014] S6. Connect the front and back armholes, side seams and hem outline;
[0015] S7. Expand and loosen the overall shaping lines of the front garment piece and the back garment piece respectively;
[0016] S8. Determine the garment length to form the target front garment piece and the target back garment piece.
[0017] Optionally, in the above garment pattern making method, the step of balancing the garment body and drawing basic structural lines specifically includes:
[0018] Using the midpoint of the initial front hip line of the front garment piece as the rotation center, rotate the front garment piece towards the initial front side seam by a first preset angle, and draw the front bust line, front waist line, front hip line, front center line, front side seam, and front shoulder line on the rotated front garment piece respectively.
[0019] Using the midpoint of the initial back hip line of the back garment piece as the rotation center, rotate the back garment piece towards the initial back side seam by a second preset angle, and draw the back bust line, back waist line, back hip line, back center line, back side seam, and back shoulder line on the rotated back garment piece.
[0020] Optionally, in the above-described garment pattern-making method, the step of drawing the design lines and expanding and adjusting the portions of the design lines specifically includes:
[0021] Based on the front bust line, draw the first auxiliary line upwards at a third preset distance. Measure the fourth preset distance from the new front shoulder point along the front shoulder line towards the inside of the garment to determine the first point. Draw the first shaping line from the first point towards the front hip line. Expand the first shaping line in a fan shape from the shoulder end to the intersection with the first auxiliary line at a fifth preset distance. Shift the remaining segments in the same direction by the same distance.
[0022] Using the back bust line as a reference, draw a second auxiliary line upwards at a sixth preset distance. Measure a seventh preset distance from the new back shoulder point along the back shoulder line towards the inside of the garment to determine a second point. Draw a second shaping line from the second point towards the back hip line. The second shaping line extends in a fan shape from the shoulder end to the intersection with the second auxiliary line at an eighth preset distance, and the remaining segments are translated by the same distance in the same direction.
[0023] Optionally, in the above garment pattern making method, in the step of increasing the compensation width of the side seam, the compensation width of the side seam is twice the amount of length change.
[0024] Optionally, in the above-described garment pattern making method, the ratio of the fan-shaped expansion of the first shaping line of the front garment piece from the shoulder to the intersection with the first auxiliary line to the fan-shaped expansion of the second shaping line of the rear garment piece from the shoulder to the intersection with the second auxiliary line is 1 / 2 to 2 / 3.
[0025] Optionally, in the above garment pattern making method, the first preset distance is 2cm-4cm.
[0026] Optionally, in the above garment pattern making method, the third preset distance is 6cm-8cm; and / or, the sixth preset distance is 6cm-8cm.
[0027] Optionally, in the above garment pattern making method, the fourth preset distance is 4cm-6cm; and / or, the seventh preset distance is 4cm-6cm.
[0028] Optionally, in the above garment pattern making method, the fifth preset distance is 1cm-3cm.
[0029] Optionally, in the above-described garment pattern-making method, the step of expanding and loosening the overall shaping lines of the front and back garment pieces specifically includes:
[0030] The first shaping line is expanded by a ninth preset distance to obtain the adjusted first shaping line; the second shaping line is expanded by a tenth preset distance to obtain the adjusted second shaping line.
[0031] The ninth preset distance is 8cm-11cm; and / or, the tenth preset distance is 8cm-11cm.
[0032] As can be seen from the above scheme, the garment pattern-making method disclosed in this application draws shaping lines on the front and back garment pieces respectively, and expands and shifts the lower sections of the shaping lines to provide appropriate ease in the shoulder and chest area of the front piece and the shoulder and back area of the back piece. Since the fan-shaped expansion and shifting will cause changes in the length of the shaping lines, this application further increases the compensation width at the front and back side seams according to the amount of length change, thereby restoring the horizontal and vertical balance of the garment body. Through this compensation treatment, problems such as front piece lifting, back piece imbalance, side seam skewing, or uneven hem caused by increased ease can be effectively reduced.
[0033] In addition, this application also expands the overall shape lines of the front and back garment pieces to form the overall loose silhouette required for a boyfriend-style wide-shouldered suit. This expansion method is not simply to widen the garment as a whole, but to control the distribution of looseness through the shape lines, so that the garment has a visually relaxed feel while maintaining structural stability and clean lines.
[0034] The garment pattern making method disclosed in this application can take into account the shoulder line shape, armhole stability and garment balance during the pattern making process of boyfriend-style wide-shouldered suits, so that the finished garment has both wide-shouldered, neutral and relaxed style characteristics, while avoiding the problems of looseness, piling and imbalance caused by excessive looseness, thereby improving the wearing comfort, pattern stability and appearance of the finished garment. Attached Figure Description
[0035] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of this application or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are only some embodiments of this application. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.
[0036] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the front and back panels of the straight-body prototype of the top disclosed in the embodiments of this application;
[0037] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the front and back garment pieces for processing garment balance and drawing basic structural lines as disclosed in the embodiments of this application;
[0038] Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the front and back garment pieces obtained by extending the shoulder line and modifying the armhole and body contours, as disclosed in the embodiments of this application.
[0039] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of drawing the first and second shaping lines as disclosed in the embodiments of this application;
[0040] Figure 5This is a schematic diagram of the front and back garment pieces obtained by drawing a design line and expanding and adjusting a portion of the design line, as disclosed in an embodiment of this application.
[0041] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the front and back garment pieces obtained by connecting the front and back armholes, side seams, and hem outlines as disclosed in the embodiments of this application.
[0042] Figure 7 The present application discloses the overall unfolding and opening of the shaping lines of the front and back garment pieces in the embodiments of this application;
[0043] Figure 8 This is a schematic diagram of the target front garment piece and the target back garment piece disclosed in the embodiments of this application;
[0044] Figure 9 This is a flowchart of the garment pattern making method disclosed in the embodiments of this application.
[0045] The annotations in the attached figures are explained as follows:
[0046] 100 pieces of clothing, 200 pieces of clothing;
[0047] 100' target front garment piece, 200' target back garment piece;
[0048] L1 front bust line, L2 front hip line, L3 back bust line, L4 back hip line;
[0049] L5 First Auxiliary Line, L6 Second Auxiliary Line, A First Point, D Second Point, O New Front Shoulder Point, P New Back Shoulder Point, M Prototype Front Armpit Point, M' New Front Armpit Point, N Prototype Back Armpit Point, N' New Back Armpit Point, C1 Intersection of the First Shape Line after Explosion, B1 Endpoint of the First Shape Line after Explosion, F1 Intersection of the Second Shape Line after Explosion, E1 Endpoint of the Second Shape Line after Explosion, AB First Shape Line, DE Second Shape Line, AG First Shape Line after Adjustment, DH Second Shape Line after Adjustment, QR Back Shoulder Line after Adjustment. Detailed Implementation
[0050] The core of this application is to disclose a garment pattern-making method that balances shoulder line design and pattern stability.
[0051] The technical solutions of the embodiments of this application will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of this application, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of this application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of this application.
[0052] In this manual, uppercase letters such as A, B, C, etc., represent geometric points in the attached drawings, such as shoulder points, armpit points, intersections of auxiliary lines, etc. When two points are written side by side, such as AB and AC, it represents the line connecting the two points. The line can be a straight line segment or a curved line segment, depending on the structure of the attached drawing.
[0053] In this embodiment, the front garment piece refers to the right front half of the pattern of the women's top, and the left and right front garment pieces are cut with the center front line as the symmetry reference; the back garment piece refers to the right back half of the pattern, and the left and right back garment pieces are cut with the center back line as the symmetry reference.
[0054] This application discloses a garment pattern making method, which is applicable to the production of pattern making for boyfriend-style wide-shouldered suits. It can maintain the horizontal and vertical balance of the front and back garment pieces by extending the shoulder line and increasing the ease, while expanding the shaping line and compensating for the side seams, thereby avoiding problems such as drooping shoulders, armpit bunching, front piece lifting, and garment imbalance.
[0055] like Figure 9 As shown, the garment pattern making method disclosed in this application includes the following steps:
[0056] Step S1: Obtain the front piece 100 and the back piece 200 of the straight-body pattern of the top.
[0057] Specifically, such as Figure 1 As shown, the basic pattern is first drawn based on the straight-cut women's top prototype. The basic pattern includes front piece 100 and back piece 200. Front piece 100 and back piece 200 can be drawn based on human body measurements, garment size specifications, and the basic ease allowance required for the suit style. This straight-cut top prototype serves as the basis for the subsequent pattern making of the boyfriend-style slightly wide-shouldered suit, determining the basic outline of the garment body, the basic shape of the armholes, the basic position of the shoulder line, the basic position of the bust, the basic position of the waist, the basic position of the hips, and the correspondence between the front and back pieces.
[0058] It should be noted that the straight-cut pattern of the top in this embodiment is preferably a straight-cut pattern of a women's top, but it is not limited to this. In actual pattern making, the corresponding basic pattern can also be selected according to the target wearer, style and size specifications.
[0059] Step S2: Balance the garment and draw the basic structural lines;
[0060] Specifically, such as Figure 2 As shown, the bodice is balanced based on the straight-cut prototype of the women's top. The positional relationship between the front bodice piece 100 and the back bodice piece 200 is adjusted to maintain good horizontal and vertical balance in the bust, waist, hip, and shoulder areas. After balancing, new bust, waist, hip, side seam, and shoulder lines are drawn on the front bodice piece 100 and the back bodice piece 200, respectively.
[0061] In some specific embodiments, the midpoint of the initial front hip line of the front garment piece 100 is used as the rotation center. The front garment piece 100 is rotated by a first preset angle towards the initial front side seam, and the front bust line L1, front waist line, front hip line L2, front center line, front side seam, and front shoulder line are drawn on the rotated front garment piece 100. Specifically, a horizontal line is drawn based on the intersection of the front side seam and the front armhole arc to determine the front bust line L1. Based on the front bust line L1, horizontal lines are drawn according to the vertical distances from the initial bust line to the initial waist line and from the initial bust line to the initial hip line in the prototype to obtain the front waist line and the front hip line, respectively, so that the three bust lines on the modified front garment piece still maintain the same longitudinal spacing as the prototype. Using the midpoint of the initial back hip line of the back garment piece 200 as the rotation center, rotate the back garment piece 200 towards the initial back side seam line by a second preset angle, and draw the back bust line L3, back waist line, back hip line L4, back center line, back side seam line, and back shoulder line on the rotated back garment piece 200. Specifically, a horizontal line is drawn based on the intersection of the back side seam line and the back armhole line to determine the back bust line L3. Based on the back bust line L3, horizontal lines are drawn according to the vertical distances from the initial bust line to the initial waist line and from the initial bust line to the initial hip line in the prototype to obtain the back waist line and back hip line, respectively, so that the three bust lines on the modified back garment piece still maintain the same longitudinal spacing as the prototype. For ease of description, the structural lines before rotation will be referred to as the initial front center line, initial waistline, initial front hipline, initial back hipline, initial front side seam, and initial back side seam, respectively; the structural lines after rotation will be referred to as the front center line, waistline, front hipline, back hipline, front side seam, and back side seam.
[0062] The aforementioned rotation process allows the garment to establish a more stable basic balance when transitioning from a regular straight silhouette to a boyfriend-style slightly wide-shouldered suit cut, facilitating subsequent shoulder line extension, armhole correction, and the development of shaping lines.
[0063] Furthermore, in this step, the structure of the suit collar can also be drawn according to the needs of the suit style. The suit collar can be determined based on the lapel width, lapel position, collar stand structure, and placket relationship. The specific drawing method can adopt the conventional suit collar pattern making method in this field, and this application does not make any special limitations on it.
[0064] Step S3: Extend the shoulder line and correct the armhole and garment outline;
[0065] Specifically, such as Figure 3 As shown, extend the front shoulder line of the front garment piece 100 outward by a first preset distance to obtain a new front shoulder point O. Based on the difference between the front and back armhole depths in the prototype, adjust the position of the back shoulder line so that the difference between the corrected back armhole depth and the front armhole depth returns to the original difference. The back shoulder line is then adjusted to... Figure 2In this context, QR refers to adjusting the rear shoulder line by extending it outward by a second preset distance to obtain a new rear shoulder point P. The first and second preset distances are used to create a slightly wider shoulder effect, making the shoulder line extend beyond the natural shoulder point, thus visually creating a straight, broad, and slightly androgynous shoulder contour. The second preset distance can be equal to or different from the first preset distance.
[0066] In some specific embodiments, the first preset distance is 2cm-4cm, preferably 3cm, and the second preset distance is 2cm-4cm, preferably 3cm. That is, the new shoulder position is obtained by extending 3cm outward along the shoulder line from the original shoulder point. This setting can create a slightly wider shoulder shape that is different from traditional straight-shoulder suits, and can also avoid the shoulder line from being too wide, which would cause the shoulder to sag or the garment to be loose.
[0067] After extending the shoulder line, a new armpit point needs to be determined to ensure the stability of the armhole structure. Specifically, when determining the new armpit point, the armhole width measured from the new armpit point is kept the same as the original armhole width, and the required increase in width relative to the original armpit point is calculated based on this relationship. In some specific embodiments, such as... Figure 3 As shown in the middle right figure, to keep the width of the front armhole unchanged, since part of the front bust dart is hidden in the armhole, and the horizontal length of the hidden bust dart is 1.3cm, the original front armpit point M is moved outward by 1.3cm to the new front armpit point M'. In other words, the new front armpit point M' is 1.3cm wider than the original front armpit point M. Because the original front armpit point M is moved outward by 1.3cm, the original back armpit point N also needs to be moved outward by 1.3cm, and the back seam also needs to be moved outward by 1.3cm, resulting in the following... Figure 3 The new posterior axillary point N' shown in the middle left figure and Figure 3 The back seam is shown in the diagram. After determining the new armpit point, connect the new armhole curve and the new side seam, and adjust the hip line, bust line, and waist line accordingly to ensure a natural connection between the extended shoulder contour, armhole contour, and side seam contour. It should be noted that the prototype front armpit point M and prototype back armpit point N here refer to the armpit points determined after performing step S2.
[0068] The above treatments can create a slightly wider shoulder appearance while maintaining stability and smoothness in the underarm area, reducing underarm piling or armhole deformation.
[0069] Step S4: Draw the shape lines and expand and increase the size of some segments of the shape lines;
[0070] Specifically, such as Figure 4As shown, a first shaping line AB is drawn on the front garment piece 100, and a second shaping line DE is drawn on the back garment piece 200. The local segments of the first shaping line AB and the second shaping line DE are then expanded and adjusted. A horizontal line is drawn upwards from the front bust line L1 at a third preset distance to obtain the first auxiliary line L5. On the front garment piece 100, a fourth preset distance is measured from the new front shoulder point O along the front shoulder line towards the inside of the garment body to determine the first point A. The first shaping line AB is drawn from the first point A to the front hip line L2. The first shaping line AB extends towards the lower part of the garment body. The segment of the first shaping line AB from the shoulder end to the intersection with the first auxiliary line L5 is fanned out at a fifth preset distance, and the remaining segments are translated by the same distance in the same direction. Specifically, as shown... Figure 4 and Figure 5 As shown, the first shaping line AB intersects the first auxiliary line L5 at point C. The AC segment is expanded to obtain the expanded line AC1. The CB segment is translated in the same direction by the same distance to obtain C1B1.
[0071] In some specific embodiments of this application, the third preset distance is 6cm-8cm, preferably 7cm, that is, the first auxiliary line L5 is drawn 7cm upwards from the front bust line L1. The fourth preset distance is 4cm-6cm, preferably 5cm, that is, the first point A is determined by measuring 5cm inwards from the new front shoulder point O. The fifth preset distance is 1cm-3cm, preferably 2cm, that is, the expansion amount of segment AC is 2cm. Further, segment AC is expanded by 2cm to obtain AC1, and CB is translated by 2cm to obtain C1B1. It should be noted that the position of the first point A is used to control the starting position of the shaping line above the shoulder and chest of the front piece, and the expansion amount of segment AC is used to adjust the looseness and shaping of the shoulder and chest area of the front piece.
[0072] like Figure 4 and Figure 5 As shown, on the back garment piece 200, a horizontal line is drawn upwards at a sixth preset distance from the back bust line L3 to obtain the second auxiliary line L6. A seventh preset distance is measured from the new back shoulder point P along the back shoulder line inwards to determine the second point D. A second shaping line DE is drawn from the second point D to the back hip line L4. The second shaping line DE extends downwards to the lower part of the garment and intersects the second auxiliary line L6 at point F. The DF segment is expanded and measured an eighth preset distance to obtain the expanded line DF1. FE is translated by the same distance to obtain F1E1. The sixth preset distance is preferably 7cm, that is, the second auxiliary line L6 is drawn 7cm upwards from the back bust line L3; the seventh preset distance is 4cm-6cm, preferably 5cm, that is, the second point D is determined by measuring 5cm inwards from the new back shoulder point P; the 5 shown in the figure is 5cm; the eighth preset distance is preferably 4cm, that is, DF is expanded by 4cm to obtain DF1, and FE is translated by 4cm to obtain F1E1. This setting increases the amount of space in the shoulder and back area of the back panel 200, allowing the back panel 200 to match the back looseness required for a boyfriend-style wide-shouldered silhouette.
[0073] It should be noted that the first auxiliary line L5 and the second auxiliary line L6 are used to define the position of the local unfolding of the shaping lines, so that the structural unfolding of the front garment piece 100 and the back garment piece 200 is concentrated in a suitable area above the chest, thereby taking into account both the shaping effect and the balance of the garment body. The preset distances can also be adjusted adaptively according to the style, size and fabric properties, and are not limited to the specific distance values mentioned above.
[0074] Furthermore, the unfolding amount of segment CC1 in the front garment piece 100 and segment FF1 in the back garment piece 200 can be set according to style requirements. For example, the ratio of segment CC1 to segment FF1 can be 2:3 or 1:2; in other words, the ratio of segment CC1 to segment FF1 can be selected within the range of 1 / 2 to 2 / 3. When the front garment piece 100 needs to be relatively fitted and the back garment piece 200 needs more back space, the unfolding amount of the back garment piece 200 can be greater than that of the front garment piece 100, thus better meeting the wearing and visual style requirements of a slightly wide-shouldered suit.
[0075] Step S5: Increase the compensation width of the side seam;
[0076] Based on the length changes of the front garment piece 100 and the back garment piece 200 due to the unfolding and translation of their shaping lines, compensation widths are added at the front and back side seams, respectively. Specifically, for example... Figure 5 As shown, on the front garment piece 100, after unfolding segment AC by 2cm to obtain AC1, segment CB, located below point C in the first shaping line AB, is translated by 2cm to obtain C1B1. Because segment AC is unfolded in a fan shape while segment CB is translated, the unfolded line AC1B1 will have a length change relative to the original line ACB. In this embodiment, AC1B1 is 0.17cm longer than ACB, and this length change will disrupt the horizontal and vertical balance of the front garment piece.
[0077] To restore the horizontal and vertical balance of the front garment piece 100, a compensating width is added at the front side seam to obtain a new front side seam line, namely... Figure 5 The front seam is marked in the figure. In some specific embodiments, the compensation width is twice the length change. When the length change of the front piece is 0.17cm, the compensation width added at the front seam is 0.34cm. By adding a compensation width of 0.34cm at the front seam, the structural changes of the front garment piece 100 caused by the unfolding and translation of the shaping lines can be compensated, so that the relationship between the hem, waist and chest of the front garment piece 100 remains coordinated, and the risk of the front garment piece 100 lifting or locally twisting is reduced.
[0078] Similarly, on the back garment piece 200, after unfolding the DF segment by 4cm to obtain DF1, the FE segment of the second shaping line DE, located below point F, is shifted by 4cm to obtain F1E1. Because the DF segment unfolds in a fan shape while the FE segment is shifted, the unfolded line DF1E1 will have a length change relative to the original line DFE. In this embodiment, DF1E1 is 0.9cm longer than DFE, and this length change will disrupt the horizontal and vertical balance of the back garment piece.
[0079] To restore the horizontal and vertical balance of the back garment piece 200, a compensation width is added at the back side seam to obtain a new back side seam line, which is... Figure 5 The back seam is marked in the diagram. In some specific embodiments, the compensation width is twice the amount of length change. When the back piece length change is 0.9cm, the compensation width added at the back seam is 1.8cm. By adding 1.8cm at the back seam, the structural changes caused by the unfolding of the back shaping line of the back piece can be compensated, allowing the back piece to have sufficient looseness in the shoulder and back area while the side seams and hem remain smooth.
[0080] It should be noted that the values for increasing the compensation width at the front and back seams are not limited to the aforementioned 0.34cm and 1.8cm. Under different sizes, different elastic fabrics, different shoulder widths, or different unfolding conditions, you can first measure the change in length of the unfolded shape line relative to the unwound shape line, and then set the compensation width at twice the amount of this change in length, or make appropriate fine adjustments based on the sample results.
[0081] Step S6: Connect the front and back armholes, side seams, and hem outline;
[0082] Specifically, such as Figure 6 As shown, after completing the partial unfolding, translation, and side seam compensation of the front garment piece 100 and the back garment piece 200, the front armhole curve, back armhole curve, front side seam, back side seam, front hip line L2, and back hip line L4 are connected.
[0083] Specifically, the front and back armhole curves should naturally connect with the new shoulder point, new armpit point, and corresponding garment silhouette; the front and back side seams should pass through the compensated side seam positions and smoothly transition with the waistline, hipline, and hemline; the front hipline L2 and back hipline L4 should be rounded according to the style silhouette to maintain a neat and balanced overall appearance.
[0084] This step eliminates the angles or abrupt line segments that result from local unfolding and translation, giving the target front garment piece 100' and the target back garment piece 200' a continuous outline that can be used for actual cutting.
[0085] Step S7: Expand and loosen the overall shaping lines of the front garment piece 100 and the back garment piece 200;
[0086] Specifically, such as Figure 7 As shown, on the front garment piece 100, the first shaping line AB is expanded and adjusted to obtain the adjusted first shaping line AG. In some specific embodiments, the first shaping line AB is expanded by a ninth preset distance to obtain the adjusted first shaping line AG. The ninth preset distance can be 8cm-11cm, preferably 10cm.
[0087] On the back garment piece 200, the second shaping line DE is expanded and adjusted to obtain the adjusted second shaping line DH. In some specific embodiments, the second shaping line DE is expanded by a tenth preset distance to obtain the adjusted second shaping line DH. The tenth preset distance can be 8cm-11cm, preferably 10cm.
[0088] It should be noted that the overall expansion of the first shaping line AB and the second shaping line DE is used to further create the relaxed silhouette required for a boyfriend-style, slightly wide-shouldered suit. This expansion not only increases the looseness of the garment but also allows for control of the distribution of looseness through the shaping lines, resulting in a relaxed yet not baggy effect. The ninth and tenth preset distances can be the same or set differently depending on the style requirements. For example, if the style requires greater back movement, the tenth preset distance of the back piece 200 can be greater than the ninth preset distance of the front piece 100; if the style requires a more balanced visual looseness between the front and back, the two can be set to the same or similar values.
[0089] Step S8: Determine the garment length to form the target front garment piece 100' and the target back garment piece 200';
[0090] Specifically, such as Figure 8 As shown, based on the design requirements of the boyfriend-style wide-shouldered suit, after completing the balance adjustment of the front piece 100 and the back piece 200, the extension of the shoulder line, the correction of the armhole, the expansion of the shaping line and the compensation of the side seam, the actual length of the garment is determined and the final hem position is drawn.
[0091] When determining the garment length, the hem length of the front piece (100mm) and the back piece (200mm) can be determined based on the suit's style, the occasion for wearing it, the wearer's height proportions, and the design effect. For boyfriend-style wide-shouldered suits, the garment length can usually be slightly longer than that of traditional slim-fit suits to enhance the androgynous style and relaxed feel, but excessive length should be avoided to prevent the center of gravity from dropping or the garment from looking sloppy.
[0092] After determining the garment length, smooth the outer contours of the target front garment piece 100' and the target back garment piece 200' to form the final front garment piece 100 pattern and back garment piece 200 pattern. The target front garment piece 100' includes the revised front shoulder line, front armhole line, front side seam, front hip line L2, front bust line L1, and front waist line; the target back garment piece 200' includes the revised back shoulder line, back armhole line, back side seam, back hip line L4, back bust line L3, back waist line, and back hip line.
[0093] Step S9: Draw the sleeves of the garment;
[0094] Specifically, after the target front garment piece 100' and the target back garment piece 200' are formed, the sleeve cap height is calculated based on the corrected front and back armhole lines, and the suit sleeve is drawn.
[0095] In some specific embodiments, the sleeve cap height of the suit sleeve can be calculated using the following formula: Suit sleeve cap height = (1 / 2 average depth of the armhole plane × 0.875) × cos30°. It should be noted that the average depth of the armhole plane refers to the distance from the midpoint of the vertical line connecting the apexes of the front and back armholes to the horizontal line, where the horizontal line refers to the horizontal line passing through the bottom point of the armhole. In this embodiment, the sleeve cap height of the suit sleeve is calculated to be 16.8cm according to the above formula. After determining the sleeve cap height, a suit sleeve pattern is drawn based on the arc length of the front and back armholes, sleeve width, cuff width, sleeve length, and the structural requirements of the suit sleeve. This suit sleeve pattern matches the aforementioned target front garment piece 100' and target back garment piece 200' to ensure a smooth sleeve cap, stable armhole, and harmony with the shoulder line shape of the slightly wide shoulder after assembly.
[0096] The garment pattern making method disclosed in this application first obtains a straight-body prototype of a women's top and performs body balancing processing. Then, according to the requirements of the boyfriend-style slightly wide shoulder design, the shoulder line is extended, a new armpit point is determined, and the armhole and side seam are corrected so that the shoulder line can exceed the natural shoulder point of women, forming a straight, wide, and slightly tough neutral silhouette.
[0097] Furthermore, this application draws shaping lines on the front garment piece 100 and the back garment piece 200 respectively, and expands and shifts the lower sections of the shaping lines to provide appropriate ease in the shoulder and chest area of the front garment and the shoulder and back area of the back garment. Since the fan-shaped expansion and shifting will cause changes in the length of the shaping lines, this application further increases the compensation width at the front and back side seams according to the amount of length change, thereby restoring the horizontal and vertical balance of the garment body. This compensation treatment effectively reduces problems such as front garment lifting, back garment imbalance, side seam skewing, or uneven hem caused by increased ease.
[0098] In addition, this application also expands the overall shape lines of the front garment piece 100 and the back garment piece 200 to form the overall loose silhouette required for a boyfriend-style wide-shouldered suit. This expansion method is not simply to widen the garment as a whole, but to control the distribution of looseness through the shape lines, so that the garment has a visually relaxed feel while maintaining structural stability and clean lines.
[0099] In summary, the garment pattern making method disclosed in this application can take into account the shoulder line shape, armhole stability and garment balance during the pattern making process of boyfriend-style wide-shouldered suits, so that the finished garment has both wide-shouldered, neutral and relaxed style characteristics, while avoiding the problems of looseness, piling and imbalance caused by excessive looseness, thereby improving the wearing comfort, pattern stability and appearance of the finished garment.
[0100] In the description of the embodiments of this application, it should be noted that, unless otherwise expressly specified and limited, the terms "connect," "smooth transition," "draw," "unfold," "translate," "rotate," etc., should be understood in conjunction with their common meaning in the field of garment pattern making. For example, "smooth transition" can be understood as a pattern-making operation that adjusts adjacent line segments or outlines to a smooth transition; "unfold" can be understood as a pattern-making operation that increases the amount of paper pattern space based on a certain point or segment; "translate" can be understood as moving a segment to a target position while maintaining its basic shape. For those skilled in the art, the specific meaning of the above terms in the embodiments of this application can be understood according to the specific pattern-making scenario.
[0101] The terms "first," "second," "third," etc., are used for descriptive purposes only and should not be construed as indicating or implying relative importance, nor should they be construed as implicitly specifying the number of technical features indicated. Therefore, a feature defined with "first," "second," "third," etc., may explicitly or implicitly include one or more of that feature.
[0102] This application uses specific examples to illustrate the principles and implementation methods of this application. The descriptions of the above embodiments are only for the purpose of helping to understand the core ideas of this application. It should be noted that for those skilled in the art, several improvements and modifications can be made to this application without departing from the principles of this application, such as adjusting the shoulder line extension distance, the position of the auxiliary line, the expansion amount of the shaping line, the side seam compensation ratio, and the calculation parameters of the garment length or sleeve cap height, etc. These improvements and modifications should also fall within the protection scope of the claims of this application.
Claims
1. A method for garment pattern making, characterized in that, Including the following steps: S1. Obtain the front piece (100) and back piece (200) of the straight-body pattern of the top. S2. Balance the garment body and draw the basic structural lines. Rotate the front garment piece (100) and the back garment piece (200) respectively, and draw the bust line, waist line, hip line, center line, side seam line and shoulder line respectively. S3. Extend the shoulder line and correct the armhole and body outline. Extend the front shoulder line outward by a first preset distance to obtain a new front shoulder point (O). Keep the armhole width equal to the original armhole width at the new armpit point. Extend the back shoulder line outward by a second preset distance to obtain a new back shoulder point (P). Connect the new armhole curve and the new side seam line, and correct the hip line, the bust line and the waist line accordingly. S4. Draw the shaping lines and expand and adjust the local segments of the shaping lines. Draw the first shaping line (AB) on the front garment piece (100) and the second shaping line (DE) on the back garment piece (200). Expand and adjust the first segment of the first shaping line (AB), translate the second segment of the first shaping line (AB), expand and adjust the third segment of the second shaping line (DE), and translate the fourth segment of the second shaping line (DE). S5. Increase the compensation width of the side seam. Based on the length changes of the shaping lines of the front garment piece (100) and the back garment piece (200) due to the unfolding and translation, increase the compensation width at the front side seam and the back side seam respectively. S6. Connect the front and back armholes, side seams and hem outline; S7. Expand and loosen the overall shaping lines of the front garment piece (100) and the back garment piece (200); S8. Determine the garment length to form the target front garment piece (100') and the target back garment piece (200').
2. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The steps for balancing the garment and drawing basic structural lines specifically include: Using the midpoint of the initial front hip line of the front garment piece (100) as the rotation center, rotate the front garment piece (100) towards the initial front side seam by a first preset angle, and draw the front bust line (L1), front waist line, front hip line (L2), front center line, front side seam and front shoulder line on the rotated front garment piece (100); Using the midpoint of the initial back hip line of the back garment piece (200) as the rotation center, rotate the back garment piece (200) towards the initial back side seam by a second preset angle, and draw the back bust line (L3), back waist line, back hip line (L4), back center line, back side seam and back shoulder line on the rotated back garment piece (200).
3. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 2, characterized in that, The steps of drawing the shape line and expanding the local segments of the shape line specifically include: Using the front bust line (L1) as a reference, draw the first auxiliary line (L5) upwards at a third preset distance. From the new front shoulder point (O), measure a fourth preset distance along the front shoulder line towards the inside of the garment to determine the first point (A). From the first point (A), draw the first shaping line (AB) towards the front hip line (L2). The first shaping line (AB) extends in a fan shape from the shoulder end to the intersection with the first auxiliary line (L5) at a fifth preset distance. The remaining segments are translated by the same distance in the same direction. Using the back bust line (L3) as a reference, draw the second auxiliary line (L6) upwards at a sixth preset distance. From the new back shoulder point (P), measure a seventh preset distance along the back shoulder line towards the inside of the garment to determine the second point (D). From the second point (D), draw the second shaping line (DE) towards the back hip line (L4). The second shaping line (DE) extends in a fan shape from the shoulder end to the intersection with the second auxiliary line (L6) at an eighth preset distance. The remaining segments are translated by the same distance in the same direction.
4. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 3, characterized in that, In the step of increasing the compensation width of the side seam, the compensation width of the side seam is twice the amount of the length change.
5. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 3, characterized in that, The fan-shaped expansion of the first shaping line (AB) of the front garment piece (100) from the shoulder to the intersection with the first auxiliary line (L5) is 1 / 2 to 2 / 3 the fan-shaped expansion of the second shaping line (DE) of the rear garment piece from the shoulder to the intersection with the second auxiliary line (L6).
6. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The first preset distance is 2cm-4cm.
7. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 3, characterized in that, The third preset distance is 6cm-8cm; and / or, the sixth preset distance is 6cm-8cm.
8. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 3, characterized in that, The fourth preset distance is 4cm-6cm; and / or, the seventh preset distance is 4cm-6cm.
9. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 3, characterized in that, The fifth preset distance is 1cm-3cm.
10. The garment pattern making method as described in claim 2, characterized in that, The steps of expanding and loosening the overall shaping lines of the front garment piece (100) and the back garment piece (200) specifically include: The first styling line (AB) is extended by a ninth preset distance to obtain the adjusted first styling line (AG); the second styling line (DE) is extended by a tenth preset distance to obtain the adjusted second styling line (DH). The ninth preset distance is 8cm-11cm; and / or, the tenth preset distance is 8cm-11cm.