Cosmetic composition for acne care

Abstract

This invention relates to an acne care composition comprising at least one surfactant (comprising sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate and optionally glyceryl stearate SE), at least one glycolipid, at least one β-hydroxy acid (comprising salicylic acid or a derivative thereof), at least one clay (optionally comprising kaolin), at least one cationic polymer (optionally comprising chitosan), at least one thickener (comprising any one or a combination of carrageenan, xanthan gum, and sclerotium gum), at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent (comprising water and glycerin), and at least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides, and combinations thereof. When applied to the skin by rubbing, the composition exhibits a peak shear stress of about 100 to about 1000 PA at shear rates of 11 / s–1001 / s, followed by a rapid decrease in viscosity while maintaining the shear stress.

Description

[0001] Related applications

[0002] This application claims priority to U.S. Nonprovisional Application No. 18 / 591,930, filed February 29, 2024, and French Application No. FR2404520, filed April 30, 2024, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Technical Field

[0003] This disclosure relates to a skin care composition, particularly an acne care composition. Background of the Invention

[0005] Current acne skincare routines typically require applying acne treatment products and leaving them on the skin for the required period of time to allow the active ingredients to work effectively. These products may have issues such as being difficult to spread, not staying reliably on acne-prone areas and spots during treatment without dripping, and being difficult to remove at the end of the application period.

[0006] There is a market need for an acne skincare composition that provides a beneficial level of active ingredients in a matrix that allows for easy application to the skin and reliable retention in the target area until it needs to be removed.

[0007] The inventors hereby provide a product formulation in the form of an acne care composition with a paste-like texture, which is easily spread under shear and has a good structure and does not drip after application until removal. Summary of the Invention

[0008] In a first embodiment, the acne care composition comprises: a) At least one surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate; b) At least one glycolipid; c) At least one β-hydroxy acid; d) At least one type of clay; and e) At least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water and glycerin, The acne care composition exhibits a peak shear stress of about 100 to about 1000 Pa at shear rates of 1 1 / s – 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

[0009] In some embodiments, the at least one glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, glucose lipolipid, trehalolipid, cellobiolipid, mannose erythritol lipolipid, or mixtures thereof.

[0010] In some embodiments, the at least one glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipin and is present in a content of about 1% to about 4 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0011] In some embodiments, the at least one β-hydroxy acid comprises salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, in an amount of about 0.1% to about 2 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0012] In some embodiments, the at least one clay comprises kaolin, in a content of about 5% to about 20 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0013] In some embodiments, the glycerin content is from about 10% to about 30 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0014] In some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises at least one cationic polymer.

[0015] In some embodiments, the at least one cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutyramide, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0016] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is chitosan, and its content is from about 0.05% to about 0.5 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0017] In some embodiments, the acne care composition contains at least one thickener.

[0018] In some embodiments, the at least one thickener is selected from carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or combinations thereof, and the at least one thickener is present in the range of about 0.1% to about 5 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0019] In some embodiments, the at least one thickener is carrageenan, and its content is from about 0.5% to about 1.5 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0020] In some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises at least one additive selected from antimicrobial agents, chelating agents, oils, fillers, penetrants, chelating agents, fragrances, dispersants, skin care active substances, and combinations thereof.

[0021] In some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises at least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, nicotinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramide, and combinations thereof.

[0022] In some embodiments, the at least one surfactant comprises glyceryl stearate (SE).

[0023] In some implementations, the pH is 4.7–5.9.

[0024] In another embodiment, the acne care composition comprises: a) A surfactant comprising approximately 10% sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate and approximately 5% glyceryl stearate SE; b) At least one glycolipid, comprising approximately 3%; c) At least one β-hydroxy acid, comprising salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, in an amount of about 2%; d) At least one type of clay, comprising kaolinite in a content of approximately 15%; e) At least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan in an amount of about 0.1%; f) At least one thickener comprising carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof, and comprising approximately 1% of the content; g) At least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water and comprising glycerin in an amount of about 10% to about 30%; and h) At least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, nicotinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, ceramide, and combinations thereof. All quantities are by weight, based on the weight of the acne care composition. The acne care composition exhibits peak shear stress in the range of about 100 to about 1000 PA at shear rates in the range of 1 1 / s – 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

[0025] In some embodiments, the at least one additive includes sodium hydroxide, nicotinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and ceramide.

[0026] 16. In another embodiment, this disclosure provides a method of cleansing skin, comprising applying an acne care composition to the skin of a subject, said acne care composition comprising: a) A surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate and glyceryl stearate SE; b) At least one glycolipid; c) At least one β-hydroxy acid, comprising salicylic acid or a derivative thereof; d) At least one type of clay, which includes kaolin; e) At least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan; f) At least one thickener comprising carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum or a combination thereof; g) At least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water and glycerin; and h) At least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, nicotinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, ceramide, and combinations thereof. The acne care composition exhibits a peak shear stress of about 100 to about 1000 PA at shear rates of 1 1 / s to 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

[0027] In some embodiments, the composition is one of the following: (a) a spot treatment having a paste-like texture, which is applied to the skin and rinsed off after a selected time period; (b) a cleanser having a paste-like texture, which is applied to the skin by rubbing and rinsed off after a selected time period; and (c) a mask having a paste-like texture, which is applied to the skin by rubbing and left on the skin for a selected time period before rinsing off.

[0028] Other features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of preferred embodiments, which illustrates the principles of the invention through examples. Brief description of the attached diagram

[0030] Figure 1 It is a graph showing the change in shear viscosity as a function of shear rate in the example composition; Figure 2 It is a graph showing the change of shear stress as a function of shear rate in the example composition; and Figure 3 It is a graph showing the change of shear stress as a function of shear rate in the example composition.

[0031] It should be understood that the foregoing and subsequent descriptions are merely exemplary and illustrative and are not intended to limit any of the topics requested. Invention Details

[0033] This disclosure relates to acne care compositions and methods of using the compositions.

[0034] In various embodiments, the composition is a mild surfactant-based acne care product that may be provided in one or more forms, such as a cleanser, a mask, or a leave-on spot treatment, each form being intended for short-term use and removal with at least water.

[0035] According to the present invention, an acne care composition is provided in a multifunctional anti-acne product having a paste-like texture and a relatively viscous consistency for leave-on use. This acne care composition can be applied to acne spots without dripping.

[0036] As a face mask or facial cleanser intended for covering large areas, this acne care composition exhibits minimal resistance to facial spread, good spreadability, and remains in place without dripping. At low shear rates, the acne care composition behaves similarly to a yield stress fluid with stable structure-holding properties, while at high shear rates, the shear stress exhibits an inflection point, subsequently decreasing sharply after a peak while still at high shear rates. Upon release from shear, the consistency of the composition returns to a viscous and creamy consistency.

[0037] Examples show that the acne care composition exhibits peak shear stress in the range of approximately 200 to approximately 1000 PA at shear rates in the range of 1 1 / s – 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity upon continued shear stress. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that at the peak inflection point shear rate, a structural change occurs in the micro-aggregates of sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate and associated components, leading to viscosity release and thinning. Above the inflection point shear rate, the lower viscosity results in better spreadability of the acne care composition.

[0038] Composition

[0039] Surfactants: In various embodiments, the acne care composition comprises the surfactant sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate. In some embodiments, the acne care composition may include, or alternatively may substantially exclude, any one or more nonionic, cationic, or anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the acne care composition excludes all surfactants except sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate.

[0040] In some embodiments, the composition further includes at least one additional surfactant selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, and cetyl alcohol. In some embodiments, the composition includes at least glyceryl stearate SE in addition to sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate.

[0041] Based on the weight of the acne care composition, the concentration of sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate present in the acne care composition is about 1% to about 20%, or about 2% to about 18%, or about 5% to about 15%, or about 8% to about 12%, or about 10%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of the invention.

[0042] Therefore, based on the total weight of the acne care composition, the content of sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate is from about 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18 to about 20 wt%, including increments and ranges thereof.

[0043] When present, the additional surfactant (e.g., glyceryl stearate) in the acne care composition may be present in a weight percentage of about 1% to about 20%, or about 2% to about 18%, or about 5% to about 15%, or about 8% to about 12%, or about 2% to about 6%, or about 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the acne care composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of this invention.

[0044] Therefore, when present, the additional surfactant content, based on the total weight of the acne care composition, is from about 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18 to about 20 wt%, including increments and ranges thereof.

[0045] Glycolipids: The compositions according to the invention comprise one or more glycolipids. In a preferred embodiment, the at least one glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, or mixtures thereof.

[0046] In some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises only one glycolipid containing rhamnolipin, such as that sold by Evonik under the name Rheance One™ (INCI name: glycolipid), in a concentration of about 1% to about 4%, or about 2% to about 3%, or about 3%.

[0047] The term "glycolipid" is understood to refer to compounds formed from lipids with one or more sugar compounds attached to them.

[0048] The one or more glycolipids may be selected from rhamnolipin, sophorolipid, glucose lipolipin, trehalolipid, cellobiolipid, mannose erythritol lipolipin and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Glucolipids: The one or more glycolipids may be glucose lipids containing a glucose moiety, and may be represented by general formula (I):

[0050] in: - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation. - p represents an integer from 1 to 4, and - q represents an integer from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0051] Glucolipids can be produced by Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

[0052] Appropriate fermentation methods were reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral dissertation (1990) (M. Schmidt, Doctoral Dissertation (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig) and by Schulz in the following reference (Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203). Glucose lipases were recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a mixture of dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol.

[0053] Sophorolipids: The one or more glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose moiety, and may be represented by general formula (II): (II) in: - R3 and R4 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group. - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably methyl. - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 19 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms in the R5 and R6 groups does not exceed 20, and is preferably 14 to 18.

[0054] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the compositions according to the invention in the form of an open-chain free acid (where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxyl group OH) or in the form of a lactone (wherein a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as shown in formula (III)): (III) in: - R3, R4, R5, and R6 are defined above. The prerequisite is that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0055] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, such as *Torulopsis apicola* and *Torulopsis bombicola* cells. Fermentation processes typically use sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0056] Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can.J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6(4), 225. The resulting products are mixtures of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones, which can be used as a mixture or separated into the desired forms.

[0057] Sophorolipids such as those sold by Givaudan under the name Sophorine S and those sold by BASF under the name BioToLife can be used.

[0058] Trehalose lipids: The one or more glycolipids may be trehalose lipids containing trehalose fragments and may be represented by general formula (IV): (IV) in: - R9, R10 and R11 each independently represent saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon groups having 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0059] Trehalose lipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium *Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1* or the freshwater bacterium *Rhodococcus erythropolis*. Suitable fermentation methods have been provided by Ishigami et al. (1987), *J. Jpn. OilChem. Soc.*, 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), *Z. Naturforsch.*, 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), *Z. Naturforsch.*, 46C, 204-209.

[0060] Fibrolipin: The one or more glycolipids may be cellobiolipids containing cellobiose fragments and may be represented by the general formula (V): (V) in: - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation. - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms. - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0061] Cellobiol lipids can be produced by fungal cells of the genus *Ustilago*. A suitable fermentation process is provided by Frautz, Lang, and Wagner (1986), *Biotech. Letts.*, 8, 757-762.

[0062] Rhamnose lipids: The one or more glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.

[0063] The compositions according to the invention preferably contain one or more rhamnolipides.

[0064] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (monorhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (dirhamnolipid), which are linked by glycosidic bonds to one, two, or three β-hydroxylated fatty acid chains that are linked together by ester bonds.

[0065] More specifically, these monorhamnolipids and dirhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): (VI) in: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0. - n represents an integer equal to 1 or 0, and - R1 and R2 each independently represent the same or different hydrocarbon groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or straight, substituted or unsubstituted, especially hydroxylated, and saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, preferably mono-, di-, or tri-unsaturated alkyl groups.

[0066] Therefore, when n equals 0, equation (VI) protects monorhamnolipids, while when n equals 1, it protects dirhamnolipids.

[0067] The composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one dirhamnolipid.

[0068] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI), wherein: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0; - n represents an integer equal to 1; and - R1 and R2 each independently represent the same or different hydrocarbon groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or straight, substituted or unsubstituted, especially hydroxylated, and saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, preferably mono-, di-, or tri-unsaturated alkyl groups, and their salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0069] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments can be α or β configuration, with the α configuration being preferred.

[0070] In the context of this invention, Salts of dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) are particularly their carboxylates with organic or inorganic cations, especially with cations selected from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0071] - The solvated forms of dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) are particularly those solvated with one or more water molecules or organic solvent molecules, such as hydrates or solvates of straight-chain or branched alcohols (e.g., ethanol or isopropanol), wherein the optically active carbon atom of the fatty acid is preferably in the form of an R enantiomer, and

[0072] - The term "alkyl" means a saturated, straight-chain or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C1-C20 alkyl group having a straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecanyl, octadecyl, nonadecanyl or eicosyl.

[0073] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI), wherein: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0; - n represents an integer equal to 1; and - R1 and R2 may be the same or different, selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl, and groups of the formula -(CH2)oCH3, wherein o represents an integer from 1 to 23, particularly from 3 to 15 and even more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0074] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of general formula (VI), wherein m equals 1.

[0075] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, dirhamnolipides of general formula (VI), wherein m is preferably equal to 1.

[0076] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture containing at least one monorhamnolipid.

[0077] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII): (VII) in: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0; preferably, m equals 1. - n represents an integer equal to 1. - R1 is a -(CH2)p-CH3 group, wherein p is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12. - R2 is a -(CH2)q-CH3 group, where q is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12. It and its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0078] By way of example and not limitation, the dirhamnolipids of formula (VII) of the present invention may be applicable, and in particular, compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY as defined in Table 1 below may be mentioned.

[0079] The formula di-RL-CXCY is another way of writing it, used to represent di-rhamnolipids (di-RL) functionalized by two groups R1 and R2, represented by the symbols CX and CY, respectively, with integers X and Y equal to p+4 and q+4, respectively.

[0080] Table 1: Dirhamnolipids of Formula (VII)

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), wherein p and q are the same and equal to 6, and m equals 1, also known as di-RL-C10C10, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0082] Preferably, the proportion of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) (where p and q are the same and equal to 6, and m equals 1) in the composition according to the invention is at least 50 wt% relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipid, and preferably 51% to 85 wt%.

[0083] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), wherein m equals 1, p equals 6 and q equals 8.

[0084] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one bisrhamnolipid of formula (VI), wherein n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a -(CH2)oCH3 group, wherein o is an integer from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, and tridecenyl; preferably, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents nonenyl.

[0085] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, particularly at least three, of formula (VI) or formula (VII) of the following: - The dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), where p and q are the same and equal to 6, and m equals 1; - Dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), where m equals 1, p equals 6 and q equals 8; and - At least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI), wherein n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a -(CH2)oCH3 group, wherein o is an integer from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents nonenyl.

[0086] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, particularly at least three, of formula (VI) or formula (VII): - At least 50 wt%, preferably 51% to 85 wt%, of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipid, wherein p and q are the same and equal to 6, and m equals 1.

[0087] - 0.5% to 25 wt%, preferably 5% to 15 wt%, of dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, wherein p equals 6, q equals 8 and m equals 1, and

[0088] - 0.5% to 15 wt%, preferably 3% to 12 wt%, preferably 5% to 10 wt% of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipid, wherein n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents the -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents the nonenyl group.

[0089] As noted above, rhamnolipids are typically prepared from bacterial producers (such as Pseudomonas) using methods known to those skilled in the art.

[0090] Appropriate fermentation methods were reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0091] As a rhamnose glycolipid, those sold by Evonik under the name Rheance One (INCI name: glycolipid) can be used.

[0092] In some embodiments, the concentration of the at least one glycolipid is about 0.1% to about 5%, or about 1% to about 4%, or about 2% to about 3%, or about 3%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the acne care composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of this invention.

[0093] Therefore, based on the total weight of the acne care composition, the content of the at least one glycolipid is from about 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4.0, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 to about 5 wt%, including increments and ranges thereof.

[0094] β-hydroxy acid / salicylic acid: Acne care compositions contain at least one β-hydroxy acid. In some specific embodiments, acne care compositions may include β-hydroxy acids containing salicylic acid.

[0095] In some specific embodiments, based on the weight of the acne care composition, the acne care composition comprises only one β-hydroxy acid containing salicylic acid in an amount of about 0.1% to about 2%.

[0096] According to those embodiments containing salicylic acid, the composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one salicylic acid derivative according to formula (I). A single type of salicylic acid derivative may be used, but two or more different types of salicylic acid derivatives may also be used in combination.

[0097] The salicylic acid derivative according to the present invention corresponds to formula (I): (I) in: - Group R represents a straight-chain, branched, or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms and containing one or more possibly conjugated double bonds; an aromatic nucleus directly or via a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 2 to 7 carbon atoms connected to a carbonyl radical; said group may be substituted by one or more substituents, said one or more substituents may be the same or different, selected from halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with lower alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of the following formula:

[0098] R1 represents a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms. And its salts, derived from inorganic or organic bases.

[0099] Preferably, the R group in formula (I) represents a straight-chain, branched, or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing 3 to 17 carbon atoms and containing one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; which may be substituted by one or more substituents, which may be the same or different, selected from halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl functional groups in free form or esterified with lower alcohols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0100] In a preferred embodiment, the R group in formula (I) represents a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably an alkyl group, which contains 2 or more, preferably 3 or more, more preferably 4 or more, even more preferably 5 or more and particularly 6 or more carbon atoms, and / or 22 or fewer, preferably 18 or fewer, even more preferably 14 or fewer, preferably 12 or fewer and particularly 10 or fewer carbon atoms.

[0101] Preferably, R' in formula (I) is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of the following formula:

[0102] Where R1 represents the group -(CH2). n -CH3, where n is a number from 0 to 14.

[0103] Particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives are those based on formula (I), wherein the R group is C3-C. 10 Alkyl groups and / or R' represent hydroxyl groups.

[0104] Other particularly advantageous compounds are those in which R represents a chain derived from caprylic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or oleic acid.

[0105] Another group of particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives consists of compounds in which the R group represents a C3-C group having a carboxyl functional group in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms. 10 Alkyl groups, where R' represents a hydroxyl group.

[0106] Salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) that can be used according to the present invention are particularly described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, US 4,767,750, EP 378 936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549 and EP-A-570,230.

[0107] Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I), 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (or octanoyl salicylic acid); 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid; and their corresponding salts may be mentioned. The derivative is preferably 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid.

[0108] For the purposes of this invention, salts of salicylic acid derivatives are also considered. Among salts derived from inorganic bases, those derived from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxylated bases, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and ammonia, are particularly noteworthy. Regarding salts derived from organic bases, those derived from amine or alkanolamine type bases are particularly noteworthy.

[0109] More generally, according to the invention, the term "β-hydroxy acid" is understood to refer to a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxyl functional group separated by two carbon atoms. β-hydroxy acids may be present in acne care compositions in the form of free acids and / or in the form of their associated salts (particularly with organic bases or alkali metals), particularly depending on the final pH of the acne care composition.

[0110] Suitable β-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, salicylates, sodium salicylate and willow extract), capryloyl salicylic acid, β-hydroxybutyric acid, propionic acid, β-hydroxy-β-methylbutyric acid, carnitine tropinic acid and trethocanic acid and combinations thereof.

[0111] Based on the total weight of the acne care composition, the acne care composition comprises a β-hydroxy acid in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to no more than about 2%. In some embodiments, the acne care composition may include up to and no more than about 2% or about 1.9% of β-hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, the acne care composition may include up to and no more than about 1% of β-hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, if present, the amount of β-hydroxy acid is no more than about 0.40% to about 0.50%.

[0112] In some embodiments, based on the weight of the acne care composition, the acne care composition may include about 0.1% to about 2% of a β-hydroxy acid, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of this invention.

[0113] Therefore, based on the weight of the acne care composition, the content of the at least one β-hydroxy acid in the acne care composition is from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 to about 2.0% by weight, including increments therein and all ranges and subranges therein and in between.

[0114] clay: In some embodiments, the acne care composition may include at least one type of clay.

[0115] In some specific embodiments, the at least one clay is kaolin clay in a content of about 5% to about 20%, based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0116] In some embodiments, if present, the at least one clay may be selected from kaolinite, smectite, sodium smectite, calcium smectite, illite, chlorite, vermiculite, attapulgite, and combinations thereof. In some specific embodiments, the at least one clay may be kaolinite. In some specific embodiments, the at least one clay may be a smectite clay belonging to the mica group of smectites. And in some specific embodiments, the at least one clay may contain lithium montmorillonite.

[0117] In some embodiments, the presence of the at least one clay is from about 0.1% to about 20%, or from about 10% to about 18%, or about 15%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0118] Therefore, when at least one type of clay is present in the acne care composition, its content, by weight, can be from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20%, including increments and ranges thereof.

[0119] Acceptable solvents for cosmetics: The compositions according to this disclosure contain at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. In various embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable solvent may be selected from water.

[0120] water: According to various embodiments, the water content in the acne care composition is in the range of about 10% to about 60%, or about 20% to about 55%, or about 25% to about 50%, or about 28% to about 49%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof, based on the weight of the acne care composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of this invention.

[0121] Therefore, based on the weight of the acne care composition, the water content by weight can be from about 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59 to about 60 wt%, including increments therein and ranges therein and in between.

[0122] The water used can be sterile deionized water and / or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water, or lime water, and / or natural hot spring water or mineral water, such as water from Vittel, water from the Vichy Basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maiziers, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains, or water from Avene.

[0123] The aqueous phase can also include reconstructed hot spring water, that is, water containing trace elements (such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc.) to reconstruct the characteristics of hot spring water.

[0124] The pH of this acne care composition is 4.7 – 5.9.

[0125] pH can be adjusted to the desired value by adding an alkali (organic or inorganic) (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or another suitable alkali or a combination thereof).

[0126] Water-soluble solvents: According to some embodiments, the acne care composition includes at least one water-soluble solvent. The terms "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" are used interchangeably and refer to a compound that is a liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions.

[0127] In some specific embodiments, the water-soluble solvent comprises, based on the weight of the acne care composition, glycerin in an amount of about 5% to about 30% or about 10% to about 30%.

[0128] Examples of organic solvents may be mentioned, without limitation, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, benzyl alcohol, and phenethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers, such as monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butanediol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.

[0129] Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[0130] Further non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyols, diols, and polyols), such as glycerol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol.

[0131] Further non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol; glycol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, diethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-tert-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-tert-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxy Butanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monotert-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol monoisopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, dehydrated sorbitol, glyceryl acetate, glyceryl diacetate, glyceryl triacetate, sulfolane or mixtures thereof.

[0132] According to various embodiments, based on the weight of the acne care composition, the amount of the at least one water-soluble solvent is, by weight, about 0.1% to about 25%, or about 0.1% to about 2%, or about 0.1% to about 1%, or about 0.1% to about 0.8%, or about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or about 1% to about 20%, or about 1% to about 10%, or about 2% to about 8%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of the invention.

[0133] In some embodiments, the acne care composition includes more than one water-soluble solvent, each present in the amount described above, wherein each different water-soluble solvent may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges described above.

[0134] Therefore, based on the total weight of the acne care composition, the content of the water-soluble solvent by weight can be from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 to about 25 wt%, including increments therein and ranges therein and in between.

[0135] Thickener: In various embodiments, the acne care composition may contain at least one stabilizer and / or thickener (thickener). The thickener may be a thickening polymer. Non-limiting examples of thickening polymers include sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, carrageenan, acacia gum, agar, alginic acid, alginate, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, sodium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, guar gum, astragalus gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, guar gum hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, lithium montmorillonite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, astragalus gum, xanthan gum, modified xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum, chitin, L-glycan, alligator sugar, collagen, gelatin, zein, gluten, soy protein, casein, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] According to some embodiments, based on the weight of the acne care composition, the acne care composition comprises one or more of carrageenan, xanthan gum and sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof, in a content ranging from about 0.1% to about 5%, or about 1%.

[0137] According to some embodiments, the acne care composition contains carrageenan as a particularly preferred stabilizer / thickener, at a content of about 1% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0138] When present, the at least one thickener is present in the acne care composition at a weight of about 0.1% to about 5%, or about 0.2% to about 3%, or about 0.5% to about 2%, or about 1%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the acne care composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of this invention.

[0139] Therefore, based on the total weight of the acne care composition, the content of the at least one thickener by weight may be from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4 to about 5 wt%, including increments therein and ranges therein and in between.

[0140] Cationic polymers: In various embodiments, the acne care composition may comprise at least one cationic polymer selected from natural-based polymers that are polysaccharides, as well as other natural (i.e., plant-, animal-, or bacterial-based), synthetic, or modified cationic natural-based or synthetic polymers.

[0141] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a natural-based polymer. Typically, cationic natural-based polymers can be selected from cationic forms and cationic derivatives, including polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides.

[0142] In some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises at least one natural-based cationic polymer containing chitosan, wherein in some embodiments, the chitosan is selected from chitosan oligosaccharides, chitosan (or polymerized chitosan with a molecular weight (MW) in the range of about 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa), chitosan derivatives (including derivatives with enhanced solubility), or combinations thereof.

[0143] In various embodiments, the molecular weight (MW) of chitosan is in the range of about 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa. In some specific embodiments, the MW of chitosan is "low" and is in the range of about 1 kDa to about 20 kDa, or about 10 kDa to about 20 kDa, or about 12 kDa to about 18 kDa. In some embodiments, the chitosan has a chitosan MW of ~27 kDa.

[0144] According to some embodiments, the acne care composition contains approximately 0.1% chitosan based on its weight.

[0145] More generally, the cationic natural-based polymer selected from polysaccharides can be selected from polysaccharides including chitosan, chitin, starch, alginate, cellulose, galactomannan (such as guar gum, especially its cationic derivatives) and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one cationic natural-based polymer selected from polysaccharides can be selected from chitosan, chitosan derivatives, chitin, starch, starch derivatives, cellulose (e.g., but not limited to ethyl cellulose, nitrocellulose, hemicellulose and hemicellulose derivatives), alginate (including but not limited to sodium alginate) and combinations thereof.

[0146] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a natural-based cationic polymer selected from: chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharides, polymerized chitosan with a molecular weight (MW) in the range of 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa, chitosan derivatives, chitosan derivatives with enhanced solubility, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutyramide, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, or combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, polylysine, or combinations thereof.

[0147] Examples of cationic polymers include polysaccharide-based delivery molecules (e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose), cationic peptides and their derivatives (e.g., polylysine, polyornithine), peptide / protein polymers (e.g., histones, collagen), linear or branched synthetic polymers (e.g., polyglyamines, polyethyleneimine), natural polymers (e.g., histones, collagen), synthetic dendritic polymers, and cationic thiolized biopolymers (natural-based thiol polymers or natural-based dendritic polymers, such as chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutyramide, and chitosan-thioglycolic acid).

[0148] Examples of natural-based cationic polymers include polysaccharide-based delivery molecules (e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose); cationic peptides and their derivatives (e.g., polylysine, polyornithine); peptide / protein polymers (e.g., histones, collagen); cationic thiolized biopolymers (natural-based thiol polymers or natural-based dendritic polymers, such as chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutyramide, chitosan-thioglycolic acid); or combinations thereof.

[0149] According to the present invention, the cationic polymer may be selected from polylysine. A single type of polylysine may be used, or two or more different types of polylysine may be used in combination.

[0150] Polylysine corresponds to the condensation of several lysine amino acids. Polylysine can be a natural L-lysine homopolymer, produced through bacterial fermentation. It is commonly used as a natural preservative in food. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte and is soluble in polar solvents (such as water).

[0151] Polylysine can be, for example, ε-polylysine (or "ε-polylysine"), which is a condensation of the ε-amino and carboxyl groups of lysine, or α-polylysine (or "α-polylysine"), which is a condensation of the α-amino and carboxyl groups of lysine. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Polylysine is typically a condensation compound of L-lysine, namely poly-L-lysine.

[0152] As an example of polylysine, the following can be mentioned: - JNC CORPORATION's ε-poly-L-lysine is an aqueous solution (25% solution) of ε-poly-L-lysine with a molecular weight of approximately 4,700.

[0153] Polylysine can be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. Addition salts formed with acids include salts of hydrochloric acid or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid; or fatty acid salts, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methylicosanoic acid. Addition salts formed with bases include, for example, sodium salts, calcium salts, or hydroxyalkylamine salts, such as N-methylglucosamine, aminopropylene glycol, or triethanolamine.

[0154] In some embodiments of the invention, polylysine is present in a free form. The term "free form" here means that polylysine is not covalently bound to any other compound.

[0155] When present, the at least one cationic polymer is present in the acne care composition in an amount of about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, or about 0.05% to about 1%, or about 0.05% to about 0.5%, or about 0.1%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the acne care composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges are also within the scope of this invention.

[0156] Therefore, based on the total weight of the acne care composition, the content of the at least one cationic polymer by weight can be from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 to about 2 wt%, including increments therein and ranges therein and between.

[0157] In some embodiments, the acne care composition may include or exclude any other cationic polymers, including natural-based polymers or synthetic polymers.

[0158] In some examples, the synthetic polymer is non-organosilicon-based, and in some embodiments it may be selected from the group consisting of polyquaternary ammonium salts, i.e. polymers having a quaternary ammonium center in the polymer, such as polyquaternary ammonium salt-47 (a polymer of 1-propanenium, N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-, chloride, methyl 2-acrylate and 2-acrylic acid).

[0159] Other non-limiting examples of such polyquaternary ammonium salt compounds may be selected from diallyl dimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymers, marketed by Nalco (Lubrizol) under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER, MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER, MERQUAT 281 POLYMER, or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER (INCI name: Polyquaternary Ammonium Salt-22); copolymers of methyl propionamide propyltrichloride, acrylic acid, and / or methyl acrylate, marketed by Nalco (Lubrizol) under the names MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER or MERQUAT 2001N POLYMER (INCI name: Polyquaternary Ammonium Salt-47); and acrylamide / dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers, marketed by Nalco (Lubrizol) under the names MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER, MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER, or MERQUAT The product is sold under the name 3331PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3330 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3331 POLYMER (INCI name: Polyquaternium-39); an amphoteric terpolymer composed of methylpropionamide propyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC), acrylamide, and acrylic acid, sold by Nalco (Lubrizol) under the name MERQUAT 2003PR POLYMER (INCI name: Polyquaternium-53).

[0160] Other non-limiting examples of such polyquaternary ammonium salt compounds may be selected from polyquaternary ammonium salt-30, polyquaternary ammonium salt-35, polyquaternary ammonium salt-45, polyquaternary ammonium salt-50, polyquaternary ammonium salt-54; polyquaternary ammonium salt-57; polyquaternary ammonium salt-63; polyquaternary ammonium salt-74; polyquaternary ammonium salt-76; polyquaternary ammonium salt-86; polyquaternary ammonium salt-89; polyquaternary ammonium salt-95; polyquaternary ammonium salt-98, polyquaternary ammonium salt-104; polyquaternary ammonium salt-111; polyquaternary ammonium salt-112 and mixtures thereof.

[0161] Synthetic polymers may include cationic acrylic polymers, such as amorphous functional acrylic polymers grafted onto a polyethylene backbone, such as SYNTRAN™ 5330, which is a quaternization-modified olefin grafting technique.

[0162] The synthetic polymer may be selected from polyacrylates, such as those identified in the International Dictionary and Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients (9th edition, 2002), such as polyacrylate-1, polyacrylate-2, polyacrylate-3, polyacrylate-4, polyacrylate-16, polyacrylate-17, polyacrylate-18, polyacrylate-19, polyacrylate-21 and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Optional additives: In some embodiments, the acne care composition may contain one or more optional active substances or other ingredients (referred to herein as "additives"), which may be selected from: antimicrobial agents; chelating agents; oils; fillers; penetrants; fragrances; dispersants; skin care active substances, such as ceramides, such as sodium lauroyl lactylate (and), ceramide NP (and), ceramide AP (and), phytosphingosine (and), cholesterol (and), xanthan gum (and), carbomer (and), and ceramide EOP; sunscreens; α-hydroxy acids; organic and inorganic UV filters; citric acid; phenethyl resorcinol; hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranotriol; hydroxyacetophenone; antioxidants, including but not limited to phenolic compounds, such as chalcones and flavonoids. , flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavones, neoflavones, catechins, anthocyanins, tannins, lignans, octanones, stilbenes, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betaine, capsaicinoids, hydroxybenzophenones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones and phenolic terpenes, resveratrol, curcumin, pinoresinin, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scutellaria baicalensis root extract), pine bark extract (Maritime pine bark / bud extract), ellagic acid; hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; aescin (also known as aescin, a mixture of saponins found in horse chestnut with anti-inflammatory, vasoconstrictive and vasoprotective effects); retinol; nicotinamide; and vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as tocopherols and ascorbic acid; and combinations thereof.

[0164] While the optional additives described above are given by way of example, it should be understood that other optional components known in the art and compatible with cosmetic applications may also be used. Of course, any of the additives described above may be excluded.

[0165] In some embodiments, the acne care composition includes at least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, nicotinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramide, and combinations thereof.

[0166] In some embodiments, the acne care composition includes an additive containing: sodium hydroxide (0.3-0.5%), niacinamide (2%), lactic acid (0.05%), cetyl alcohol (2.5%), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (0.5-1%), and ceramides (sodium lauroyl lactylate (and), ceramide NP (and), ceramide AP (and), phytosphingosine (and), cholesterol (and), xanthan gum (and), carbomer (and), and ceramide EOP). The final active ingredient concentration is 0.25%.

[0167] According to various embodiments, the amount of additives (such as active substances and other components) that may be present in the acne care composition may be in the range of about 0.001% to about 50%, or about 0.5% to about 30%, or about 1.5% to about 20%, and about 5% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof, based on the weight of the acne care composition.

[0168] Therefore, the acne care composition may contain one or more additives, each or a combination thereof, in an amount of approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, based on the weight of the acne care composition. 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 to about 50 wt%, including increments therein and the range therein and between.

[0169] Example: The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and illustrative only. In the examples, the amount used is expressed as a weight percentage (wt%) of the active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] Example 1: Raw materials

[0171] In the following composition examples, the percentages of each ingredient may be shown as raw material amounts, where the amount of raw material may be equal to the amount of active substance, or if the concentration of the active substance in the raw material is less than 100%, the cosmetic composition comprises raw materials containing the active substance and a suitable solvent, wherein the concentration of the active substance in the raw material is provided in Table 2 below. When referring to inventive examples and comparative examples, unless otherwise stated, each ingredient shown in the example compositions should be presumed to be the final amount of active substance.

[0172] Table 2: Selected Raw Materials (including raw materials with an active substance concentration of less than 100%)

[0173] Example 2: Inventive Composition and Comparative Composition

[0174] Table 3 includes inventive compositions A and B.

[0175] Table 3: Inventive Compositions A (INV A) - B (INV B)

[0176] The inventive compositions and comparative compositions in Table 4 below contain the same ingredients as inventive compositions A or B, but differ in that they either lack a certain ingredient or have a substitute ingredient.

[0177] Table 4: Inventive Composition CH and Comparative Compositions 1 and 2

[0178] Example 3: Characterization of the composition

[0179] Samples of all compositions were prepared, and changes in viscosity and shear stress were evaluated when shear was applied to simulate rubbing on the skin.

[0180] The viscosity-flow profiles of the samples were measured by a rheometer in flow sweep mode between shear rates of 0.01 1 / s and 1000 1 / s. Prior to measurement, the samples were conditioned at 25°C and allowed to undergo pre-shearing followed by equilibration.

[0181] result: Refer to the attached diagram. Figure 1 The viscosity changes of all the test compositions studied are shown, while Figure 2 and Figure 3 The performance of the test compositions under high shear conditions is shown.

[0182] As shown in the figure, all inventive and comparative compositions exhibit shear-thinning behavior. However, in the formulation containing sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate (inventive composition AH), the viscosity showed a greater decrease after exceeding the peak shear stress compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 using sodium lauroyl methyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate. In fact, in the comparative examples containing the surfactant sodium lauroyl methyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, the shear stress continuously increased with the shear rate, and the shear viscosity exhibited simple shear-thinning, with no peak observed in the shear stress.

[0183] The observed response to shear viscosity changes is considered to be related to structural changes in the formulation, as evidenced by the peak shear stress at shear rates of approximately 1–100 1 / s. Without being bound by theory, the sharp decrease in shear stress after the peak is considered to indicate an evolution of the microstructure in the formulation. In contrast, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2 containing sodium lauroyl methyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, the shear stress steadily increased with increasing shear rate, implying a gradual increase in resistance to shear, but this cannot be explained by structural changes.

[0184] The presence of peak shear stress and the sharp decrease in viscosity result in better coating / spreading properties of the product.

[0185] Referring again to the attached figure, the presence of peak shear stress is independent of polymer and glycerol concentrations, but is related to the presence of sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate surfactant.

[0186] While this disclosure has been described with reference to preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art will understand that various changes can be made and elements can be substituted with equivalents without departing from the scope of this disclosure. Furthermore, many modifications can be made to adapt particular situations or materials to the teachings of this disclosure without departing from the basic scope of this disclosure. Therefore, this disclosure is intended to be limited to the specific embodiments disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out this disclosure, but will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

[0187] Definitions and terminology: When used in the appended claims in both the original and amended forms, the transitional terms “comprising,” “mainly consisting of,” and “consisting of” define the scope of the claims with respect to which unlisted additional claim elements or steps (if any) are excluded from the scope of the claims. As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” (or “comprising,” “having,” and “including”) are used in their open-ended, non-limiting sense. The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or open-ended and does not exclude any additional, unlisted elements, methods, steps, or materials.

[0188] The term "composed of" excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claim, and in the latter case, excludes impurities that are typically associated with the specified material.

[0189] The term "consistently composed of" limits the scope of the claim to the specified elements, steps, or materials, as well as those elements, steps, or materials that do not substantially affect the essential and novel features of the claimed invention. All materials and methods embodying the invention described herein may be more specifically defined in alternative embodiments by any of the transitional terms "comprising," "consistently composed of," and "composed of."

[0190] In this application, unless otherwise expressly stated, the use of the singular includes the plural. Unless the context clearly provides otherwise, the singular forms “an,” “a,” “the,” and “at least one” are to be understood to encompass both the plural and the singular, and these expressions, as well as the expression “one or more” meaning “at least one,” are expressly intended to include individual components as well as mixtures / combinations thereof.

[0191] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and mixtures thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or combinations thereof” are used interchangeably to indicate that the phrase immediately preceding the list of components (e.g., “A, B, C, D or mixtures thereof”) means that the components can be selected from A, B, C, D, A+B, A+B+C, A+D, A+C+D, etc., without being limited by their variations. Therefore, components can be used alone or in any combination thereof.

[0192] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, for the sake of a more concise description, some quantitative expressions given herein do not include the term "about". It should be understood that, whether or not the term "about" is explicitly used, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to an actual given value, and also to an approximation based on such a given value that could be reasonably inferred by one of ordinary skill in the art, including approximations arising from the experimental and / or measurement conditions of such given values. All ranges and quantities given herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as an endpoint.

[0193] The given range of "approximately 3% to 7%" is intended to allow the term "approximately" to modify both endpoints of 3% and 7%. The term "approximately" is used herein to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated figure, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Similarly, all endpoints of the range are understood to be disclosed individually; for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose ratios of 1:2 and 2:1.

[0194] As used herein with respect to percentage amounts of ingredients or raw materials, "active substance" means 100% activity of the ingredient unless otherwise specified. Unless otherwise stated, all amounts given herein are relative to the amount of active material.

[0195] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages, parts and proportions herein are based on the total weight of the compositions disclosed herein.

[0196] As used herein, the term "surfactant" and any clearly defined surfactant, even if not explicitly stated, includes salts of surfactants.

[0197] As used herein, the term “synthetic” refers to a material not of natural origin. The terms “natural,” “naturally derived,” and “naturally based” refer to materials of natural origin, such as those derived from plants, which cannot subsequently be chemically or physically modified. “Plant-based” indicates that the material is derived from a plant.

[0198] Unless otherwise expressly stated, it is not intended to interpret any method described herein as requiring its steps to be performed in a particular order. Therefore, if a method claim does not expressly state the order in which its steps are to be followed, or if the claims or description do not expressly state that the steps are limited to a particular order, it is not intended to infer any particular order.

[0199] As used herein, the terms “substantially free” or “substantially free” mean that a particular material may be present in small amounts and not substantially affect the fundamental and novel features of the composition embodiments according to this disclosure, or that the material may be absent. For example, the weight of a particular material added to the composition may be less than 2% based on the total weight of the composition (provided that an amount less than 2 wt% does not substantially affect the fundamental and novel features of the composition embodiments according to this disclosure). Similarly, the composition may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or none (0%) of the specified material. Furthermore, all components positively described in this disclosure may be negatively excluded in the claims; for example, the claimed composition may be “free,” “substantially free” (or “substantially free”) of one or more components positively described in this disclosure. The terms “substantially free” or “substantially free” as used herein may also mean that a particular material is not added to the composition but may still be present in the ingredients included in the composition.

[0200] All publications and patent applications referenced in this specification are incorporated herein by reference and are used for any and all purposes as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure shall prevail.

Claims

1. An acne care composition comprising: a) At least one surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate; b) At least one glycolipid; c) At least one β-hydroxy acid; d) At least one type of clay; and e) At least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water and glycerin, The acne care composition exhibits a peak shear stress of about 100 to about 1000 PA at shear rates of 1 1 / s – 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipid, sophorolipid, glucose lipolipid, trehalolipid, cellobiolipid, mannose erythritol lipolipid, or a mixture thereof.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipin, and the content of the at least one glycolipid is from about 1 wt% to about 4 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one β-hydroxy acid comprises salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, and the content of the at least one β-hydroxy acid is from about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one clay comprises kaolin and the content of the at least one clay is from about 5 wt% to about 20 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the glycerin content is from about 10 wt% to about 30 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

7. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutyramide, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, and combinations thereof.

8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the cationic polymer is chitosan, and the content of the cationic polymer is from about 0.05 wt% to about 0.5 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

9. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least one thickener selected from carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum or combinations thereof, wherein the content of the at least one thickener is from about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the at least one thickener is carrageenan, and the content of the at least one thickener is from about 0.5 wt% to about 1.5 wt% based on the weight of the acne care composition.

11. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least one additive selected from antimicrobial agents, chelating agents, oils, fillers, penetrants, chelating agents, fragrances, dispersants, skin care active substances, and combinations thereof.

12. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, nicotinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramide, and combinations thereof.

13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one surfactant comprises glyceryl stearate SE.

14. An acne care composition comprising: a) A surfactant comprising about 10% sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate and about 5% glyceryl stearate SE; b) At least one glycolipid, comprising approximately 3%; c) At least one β-hydroxy acid, comprising salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, in an amount of about 2%; d) At least one type of clay, comprising kaolinite in a content of about 15%; e) At least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan in an amount of about 0.1%; f) At least one thickener comprising carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof, and comprising about 1% of the content; g) At least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water and comprising glycerin in an amount of about 10% to about 30%; and h) At least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, nicotinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, ceramide, and combinations thereof. All quantities are by weight, based on the weight of the acne care composition. The acne care composition exhibits a peak shear stress of about 100 to about 1000 PA at shear rates of 1 1 / s to 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

15. A method of cleansing skin, comprising applying an acne care composition to the skin of a subject, said acne care composition comprising: a) A surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate and glyceryl stearate SE; b) At least one glycolipid; c) At least one β-hydroxy acid, comprising salicylic acid or a derivative thereof; d) At least one type of clay, which includes kaolin; e) At least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan; f) At least one thickener comprising carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum or a combination thereof; g) At least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water and glycerin; and h) At least one additive selected from sodium hydroxide, nicotinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, ceramide, and combinations thereof. The acne care composition described herein exhibits a peak shear stress of about 100 to about 1000 PA at a shear rate of 1 1 / s – 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity while maintaining the shear stress, wherein the composition is one of: (a) a spot treatment form having a paste-like texture, which is applied to the skin and rinsed off after a selected time period; (b) a cleanser form having a paste-like texture, which is applied to the skin by rubbing and rinsed off after a selected time period; and (c) a mask form having a paste-like texture, which is applied to the skin by rubbing and left on the skin for a selected time period before rinsing off.

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