Composition for cleansing keratin materials and / or removing makeup from keratin materials
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202480088584.4
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-04-23
- Publication Date
- 2026-09-22
AI Technical Summary
[0005]但是,它们中的一些表现出在施用时不起泡和不提供良好的皮肤光滑度的缺点,这从化妆品的角度来看是不利的
[0012]本发明的其它主题和特征、方面和优点将在下面的说明书中阐述,并且部分将从说明书中显现,或者可以通过本发明的实践来得知。
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to a composition preferably used for cleaning keratin materials and / or removing makeup from keratin materials. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for using said composition to clean keratin materials and / or remove makeup from keratin materials. Background Technology
[0002] Cleansing or removing makeup from the skin is crucial for skincare. In particular, it is essential for consumers of makeup products to have an effective makeup remover. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as dirt, excess sebum, and residues from daily makeup and color-safe products (especially waterproof products), can accumulate in skin folds and clog pores, potentially leading to blemishes.
[0003] Several types of skin cleansing or makeup removal products are known, such as rinse-off waterless oils and gels, foaming creams, and lotions.
[0004] Rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels have cleansing or makeup-removing properties due to the oils present in these formulations. These oils enable the dissolution of fatty residues and the dispersion of makeup pigments. These products are effective and well-tolerated.
[0005] However, some of them exhibit the drawbacks of not foaming upon application and not providing good skin smoothness, which is unfavorable from a cosmetic point of view.
[0006] At the same time, some of them provide a smooth feeling on the skin, but do not have good makeup removal ability.
[0007] Therefore, there is a need to formulate compositions that are preferably used for cleaning keratin materials and / or removing makeup from keratin materials, said compositions being stable and having improved foam volume, providing good makeup removal ability, and delivering a good skin feel, especially skin smoothness. Invention Overview The inventors have discovered that such a requirement can be achieved through this invention.
[0009] Therefore, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition preferably used for cleaning keratin materials and / or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one glycolipid; (ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate salt; and (iii) At least one amphoteric surfactant.
[0010] The compositions according to the invention can produce a large foam volume and good makeup removal ability during application, and deliver a moisturizing and smooth feeling on keratin materials, especially the skin, after application.
[0011] According to another aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for cleaning keratinous materials (particularly skin) and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials (particularly skin), comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous material (particularly skin) and washing off the composition after an optional period of time.
[0012] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in the description which follows, and in part will be apparent from the description, or may be learned by practice of the invention. Invention Details In the following text and unless otherwise stated, the boundaries of the numerical range are included within the range, particularly in the expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…”.
[0014] For the purposes of this invention, the term "keratin material" is intended for covering human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is of particular consideration according to this invention.
[0015] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more kinds of".
[0016] Throughout this application, the term “comprising / including” should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, or unspecified features.
[0017] As used herein, the use of the term “comprising / including” also discloses an implementation in which no features other than those specifically mentioned (i.e., “composed of”) are present.
[0018] According to one aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: (i) at least one glycolipid; (ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate salt; and (iii) At least one amphoteric surfactant.
[0019] Glycolipids The compositions according to the present invention contain at least one glycolipid.
[0020] the term" Glycolipids "This can be understood as a compound formed by lipids linked to one or more sugar compounds."
[0021] The inventors have discovered that glycolipids can be used as a mild surfactant to care for the skin and provide a non-drying and smooth skin surface. It also functions as a foaming agent.
[0022] Preferably, the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipid, glucose lipolipid, sophorolipid, trehalolipid, cellobiolipid and mixtures thereof.
[0023] More preferably, the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, glucose lipolipids, trehalose lipolipids, and mixtures thereof.
[0024] Even more preferably, the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipin.
[0025] Glucolipids: The glycolipid (a) may be a glucose lipid containing a glucose moiety and may be represented by general formula (I): (I) in: - R 1 Represents a hydrogen atom or a cation. - p represents an integer in the range of 1 to 4, and - q represents an integer in the range of 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.
[0026] Glucolipids can be produced by the bacteria Alcaligenes (Alcaligenes spp.) Alcaligenes sp. MM1) is generated.
[0027] Suitable fermentation methods were reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral dissertation (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. Glucose lipases were recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using ether or a mixture of dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol.
[0028] Sophorolipids The glycolipid may be a sophorolipid containing a sophorose moiety and may be represented by general formula (II): (II) in: - R 3 and R 4 Individually representing a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group, - R 5 Represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably methyl. - R 6 Represents saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon groups having 1 to 19 carbon atoms. The condition is that the group R 5 and R 6The total number of carbon atoms in the medium does not exceed 20, and is preferably 14 to 18.
[0029] Sophorolipids can exist in the form of open-chain free acids (where R...) 7 Represents a hydrogen atom and R 8 Representing the hydroxyl group (OH) or in its lactone form (wherein, as shown in formula (III), in R 7 With R 8 (forming lactone rings) is incorporated into the composition according to the invention: (III) in: - R 3 R 4 R 5 and R 6 As defined above, The condition is R 3 and R 4 At least one of them represents an acetyl group.
[0030] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells (e.g., *Bacillus oryzae*). Torulopsis apicola ) cells and globular yeast ( Torulopsis bombicola Fermentation is produced by cells. The fermentation process typically uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.
[0031] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326 and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting products are mixtures of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones, which can be used in mixture form or isolated in the desired form.
[0032] As a sophorolipid, for example, products sold by Givaudan under the name Sophorine S and products sold by BASF under the name BioToLife can be used.
[0033] Trehalose lipids The glycolipid may be a trehalose glycolipid containing trehalose fragments and may be represented by general formula (IV): (IV) in: -R 9 R 10 and R 11Individually, it represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0034] Trehalose lipids can be obtained by using marine bacteria (Arthrobacter). Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1) or freshwater bacteria Rhodococcus rubrum ( Rhodococcus erythropolis It is produced by bacterial fermentation. Suitable fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.
[0035] Fibrolipid The glycolipid may be a cellobiglycolipid containing cellobiose fragments and can be represented by the general formula (V): (V) in: - R 1 Represents a hydrogen atom or a cation. - R 12 Represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms. - R 13 Represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and - R 14 It represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0036] Cellobiose lipids can be produced by Ustilago maydis ( ) Ustilago The fermentation process is produced by fungal cells. A suitable fermentation method is provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.
[0037] Rhamnose lipids: The glycolipid may be rhamnolipin.
[0038] The compositions according to the invention preferably contain one or more rhamnolipides.
[0039] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of a single rhamnose fragment (monorhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (dirhamnolipid), which are linked by glycosidic bonds to one, two, or three β-hydroxylated fatty acid chains, which are linked to each other by ester bonds.
[0040] More specifically, these monorhamnolipids and dirhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): (VI) in: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0. - n represents an integer equal to 1 or 0, and R1 and R2 each independently represent the same or different hydrocarbon groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, especially hydroxylated, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated, diunsaturated or triunsaturated hydrocarbon groups.
[0041] Therefore, when n equals 0, equation (VI) protects monorhamnolipids, and when n equals 1, it protects dirhamnolipids.
[0042] The composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one dirhamnolipid.
[0043] The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI), and its salts, solvates, and optical isomers thereof, wherein: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0; - n represents an integer equal to 1; and R1 and R2 each independently represent the same or different hydrocarbon groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, especially hydroxylated, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated, diunsaturated or triunsaturated hydrocarbon groups.
[0044] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments can be in the α configuration or the β configuration, and is preferably in the α configuration.
[0045] In the case of the present invention, Salts of dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) are particularly their carboxylates with organic or inorganic cations, and especially with cations selected from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.
[0046] The solvated forms of dirhamnolipids of formula (VI) are particularly those solvated with one or more water molecules or organic solvent molecules, such as hydrates or solvates of linear or branched alcohols (e.g., ethanol or isopropanol), wherein the optically active carbon atom of the fatty acid is preferably in the form of an R enantiomer, and - The term "alkyl" refers to a saturated, straight-chain or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C1-C linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 1 to 20 carbon atoms. 20 Alkyl groups, more particularly methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecanyl, octadecyl, nonadecanyl, or eicosyl.
[0047] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI), wherein: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0; - n represents an integer equal to 1; and - R1 and R2, which may be the same or different, are selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, and tridecenyl, as well as the formula -(CH2). o A group of CH3, wherein o represents an integer ranging from 1 to 23, particularly from 3 to 15 and even more particularly from 4 to 12.
[0048] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of general formula (VI), wherein m equals 1.
[0049] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, dirhamnolipides of general formula (VI), wherein m is preferably equal to 1.
[0050] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture containing at least one monorhamnolipid.
[0051] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), and its salt, its solvate and its optical isomer: (VII) in: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0; preferably, m equals 1. - n represents an integer equal to 1. - R1 is -(CH2) p-CH3 group, wherein p is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12. - R2 is -(CH2) q -CH3 group, wherein q is an integer from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12.
[0052] By way of example and non-limiting reference to dirhamnolipids of formula (VII) applicable to the present invention, compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY as defined in Table A below may be specifically mentioned.
[0053] The formula di-RL-CXCY is an alternative notation to represent di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized with two groups R1 and R2, represented by the symbols CX and CY, respectively, and the integers X and Y being equal to p+4 and q+4, respectively.
[0054] [Table A] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), or a salt thereof, a solvate thereof, and an optical isomer thereof, wherein p and q are the same and equal to 6, and m equals 1, also referred to as di-RL-C10C10.
[0055] Preferably, the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), wherein p and q are the same and equal to 6, and m is equal to 1, is present in the composition according to the invention at a proportion of at least 50% by weight, and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipid.
[0056] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), wherein m equals 1, p equals 6, and q equals 8.
[0057] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI), wherein n and m are equal to 1, and R1 represents -(CH2). o The CH3 group, wherein o is an integer from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, and tridecenyl; preferably, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents a nonenyl group.
[0058] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, particularly at least three, dirhamnolipides selected from formula (VI) or (VII) below: - The dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), where p and q are the same and equal to 6, and m equals 1; - The dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), where m equals 1, p equals 6, and q equals 8; and - At least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI), where n and m equal 1, and R1 represents -(CH2). o The CH3 group, wherein o is an integer from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, and tridecenyl; preferably, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group and R2 represents a nonenyl group.
[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, particularly at least three, dirhamnolipides selected from formula (VI) or (VII): - At least 50% by weight, and preferably 51% to 85% by weight, of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, wherein p and q are the same and equal to 6, and m equals 1. - 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 15% by weight of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VII), relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipid, where p equals 6, q equals 8, and m equals 1, and - 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably 3% to 12% by weight, preferably 5% to 10% by weight of the dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipid, wherein n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 group, and R2 represents a nonenyl group.
[0060] As mentioned above, rhamnolipids are typically obtained from bacteria such as Pseudomonas ( ) using methods known to those skilled in the art. Pseudomonas Bacterial producers such as [names of bacteria] began to prepare [the product].
[0061] Suitable fermentation methods were reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (RM Lafferty ed.) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.
[0062] As a rhamnose glycolipid, the type sold by Evonik under the name RHEANCE® ONE (INCI name: glycolipid) can be used.
[0063] Advantageously, glycolipids are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0064] Alkyl sulfosuccinate salts The compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate salt.
[0065] As used herein, alkyl sulfonyl succinates include monoalkyl sulfonyl succinates and dialkyl sulfonyl succinates.
[0066] Preferably, the alkyl sulfonyl succinate salt in the composition according to the invention is selected from monoalkyl sulfonyl succinate salts or dialkyl sulfonyl succinate salts in which the alkyl group has 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Different or the same alkyl group may be present in one molecule of the dialkyl sulfonyl succinate salt, preferably the same alkyl group. The alkyl group may be straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, and may be substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, the alkyl group is branched.
[0067] The sulfosuccinate salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts such as amino alcohols, or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
[0068] Non-limiting examples of dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts include sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicapryl sulfosuccinate, sodium didecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diundecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicosyl sulfosuccinate, sodium didecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dipropylheptanyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, and ammonium dioctyl sulfosuccinate. sulfosuccinate), diheptyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, dihexyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, dioctyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, didecyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, undecyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, dilaurylate sulfosuccinate ammonium, dicocoyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, tridecyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate potassium, dinonyl sulfosuccinate potassium, diisononyl sulfosuccinate potassium, dioctyl sulfosuccinate potassium, diheptyl sulfosuccinate potassium, dihexyl sulfosuccinate potassium, dioctyl sulfosuccinate potassium Potassium didecyl sulfosuccinate, potassium didecyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dilaurylate sulfosuccinate, potassium dicocoate sulfosuccinate, potassium didecyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dipropylheptanyl sulfosuccinate, and potassium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, among which sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate is a particularly preferred choice.
[0069] Non-limiting examples of monoalkyl sulfosuccinate salts are diammonium sulfosuccinate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium cocoyl sulfosuccinate, disodium isodecyl sulfosuccinate, disodium isostearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinate, disodium stearyl sulfosuccinate, and disodium tridecyl sulfosuccinate, among which disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate is particularly preferred.
[0070] Preferably, the sulfosuccinate salt is selected from alkali metal salts, and more preferably from sodium salts, including disodium salts (for monoalkyl sulfosuccinate salts) and sodium salts (for dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts).
[0071] Preferably, the alkyl sulfonyl succinate salt is selected from monoalkyl sulfonyl succinate salts or dialkyl sulfonyl succinate salts in which the alkyl group has 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion of the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions.
[0072] More preferably, the alkyl sulfonyl succinate salt is selected from dialkyl sulfonyl succinate salts in which the alkyl group has 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion of the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations.
[0073] Even more preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate salt is selected from disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
[0074] Advantageously, the alkyl sulfosuccinate salt is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0075] Amphoteric surfactants The compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.
[0076] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives.
[0077] Amphoteric surfactants selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives contain at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate group, wherein the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0078] In particular, (C8-C) can be mentioned 20 Alkyl betaine, sulfobetaine, (C8-C 20 Alkyl)amide (C2-C8) betaine and (C8-C 20 Alkyl)amide (C2-C8 alkyl) sulfobetaine.
[0079] In (C8-C) 20 Among alkyl betaines, betaine, cetyl betaine, cocoylbetaine, and decyl betaine can be mentioned. Of the alkyl betaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example, the one marketed by Rhodia under the trade name Mirataine. ® Products sold by BB / FLA.
[0080] Among the optional quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, compounds of formulas (A) and (B) may also be mentioned: R a -CON(Z)CH2-(CH2) m -N + (R b (R) c (CH2COO) - (A) in: R a The acid R is derived from the preferred acid present in hydrolyzed coconut oil. a -COOH C7-C 19 Alkyl or alkenyl, preferably heptyl, nonyl or undecyl. R b Represents C1-C4 alkyl, or β-hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl. R c Represents C1-C4 alkyl or carboxyl (C1-C4) alkyl; m can be 0, 1, or 2. Z represents hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl, hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl, or carboxyl(C1-C4)alkyl; R a' -CON(Z)CH2-(CH2) m' -N(B)(B') (B) in: B represents -CH2CH2OX', where X' represents -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or hydrogen. B' represents -(CH2) z -Y', where z = 1 or 2, and Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H, or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z'. m' is equal to 0, 1, or 2. Z represents hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl, hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl, or carboxyl(C1-C4)alkyl. Z' represents ions from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium, potassium, or magnesium; ammonium ions; or ions from organic amines, preferably from amino alcohols, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane. R a' The preferred acid R is found in hydrolyzed flaxseed oil or coconut oil. a' C7-C of COOH 19 Alkyl or alkenyl groups.
[0081] The compound corresponding to formula (A) is preferred.
[0082] Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A), cocamidopropyl betaine may be mentioned, for example, the product sold by Cognis (BASF) under the trade name Dehyton PK 45.
[0083] Compounds of formula (C) can also be used: R a'' -NH-CH(Y'')-(CH2) n -C(O)-NH-(CH2) n' -N(R d (R) e (C) in: - R a'' The preferred acid R is found in hydrolyzed flaxseed oil or coconut oil. a'' -C(O)OH at C7-C 19 Alkyl or alkenyl; - Y'' represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z'', where Z'' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - R d and R e Each of these can independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl, a hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl, or a carboxyl (C1-C4) alkyl; and - n and n' represent integers ranging from 1 to 3 independently.
[0084] Among the compounds corresponding to formula (C), the compounds classified under the name diethylaminopropylcocoyl asparagine sodium in the CTFA dictionary are particularly noteworthy, such as the one sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
[0085] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C6) 20 )alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C1-C6) alkyl betaine and mixtures thereof.
[0086] More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoyl betaine, or a mixture thereof.
[0087] Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and most preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0088] Oil Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an oil.
[0089] As used herein, the term "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is in liquid or paste (non-solid) form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils are those commonly used in cosmetics, either alone or in combination with other oils.
[0090] The oil may be selected from vegetable oils, synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] Examples of vegetable oils that may be mentioned include flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] Examples of synthetic oils include ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0093] Ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C. 26 C is preferred 10 -C 20 Aliphatic monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched C1-C bonds. 26 C2-C is preferred. 10 A liquid ester of an aliphatic monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is greater than or equal to 10.
[0094] Preferably, for the ester of a monohydric alcohol, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the ester of the present invention is derived is branched.
[0095] Among the monoesters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols, alkyl palmitates such as ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isonononanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.
[0096] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters and mixtures thereof.
[0097] These esters can be, for example, C1-C 26 Alkyl, preferably C1-C 10 Alkyl oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, benzyl ester, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester, decanoate and arachidonic acid ester, or mixtures thereof, especially oleopalatate, oleostearate and palmostearate mixtures, and pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate.
[0098] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from vegetable oils, ester oils, and combinations thereof.
[0099] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one ingredient selected from vegetable oils, C2-C... 10 Alkyl palmitate, C2-C 10 Oils of alkyl myristate esters and combinations thereof.
[0100] Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from sunflower oil, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and combinations thereof.
[0101] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition in an amount of at least 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0102] water Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises water.
[0103] Advantageously, water is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 85% by weight, preferably from 10% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
[0104] Additional ingredients The compositions according to the invention may contain one or more additional ingredients selected from those commonly used in skin care cleansers.
[0105] The compositions according to the invention may contain one or more of the following additives, for example: pH adjusters, additional surfactants, antibacterial agents, fragrances, and thickeners.
[0106] Those skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the invention through conventional operations so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition preferably used for cleaning keratinous materials and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, comprising, by weight of the composition: (i) 1% to 7% by weight of at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids; (ii) 1% to 7% by weight of at least one alkyl sulfonyl succinate salt selected from dialkyl sulfonyl succinate salts, wherein the alkyl group has 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion of the sulfonic acid group is selected from an alkali metal cation; and (iii) 2% to 8% by weight of at least one selected from (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C1-C6) alkyl betaine is an amphoteric surfactant.
[0108] Methods and uses The compositions according to the invention can be used for cleaning keratin materials and / or removing makeup from keratin materials, such as skin, especially the face, by being applied to keratin materials.
[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a multiple emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, and more preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0110] It can be used as a daily facial cleanser and / or makeup remover.
[0111] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is a wash-off product. Therefore, such a composition can be applied to the skin (i.e., face and / or body) and subsequently rinsed off with water.
[0112] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means that enables uniform distribution, particularly by using fingers or cotton balls, and can be removed by rinsing with water.
[0113] Therefore, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for cleaning keratinous materials (especially skin) and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials (especially skin), comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous material (especially skin) and washing off the composition after an optional period of time.
[0114] Example The following examples are given for the purpose of illustrating the invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope.
[0115] The main raw materials used, their trade names, and suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0116] Table 1 INCI Name Product Name supplier Glycolipids RHEANCE® One EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate TEGO® Sulfosuccinate DO 75 EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT Sunflower seed oil HUILE DE TOURNESOL FRANCE RAFFINEE HUILERIES DE LAPALISSE Cocamidopropyl Betaine Dehyton® PK 45 BASF Invention Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 Compositions of Invention Example (IE.) 1 and Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-4 were prepared using the components listed in Table 2 (content expressed as a weight percentage of the active material relative to the total weight of each composition): Table 2 IE. 1 CE. 1 CE. 2 CE. 3 CE. 4 rhamnolipid 2.2 0 2.2 2.2 2.2 Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate 3.5 3.5 0 3.5 0 Disodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate 0 0 0 0 3.5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3.0 3.0 3.0 0 3.0 Ethylhexyl palmitate 25 25 25 25 25 Sunflower seed oil 20 20 20 20 20 Isopropyl myristate 5 5 5 5 5 water QS100 QS100 QS 100 QS100% QS 100 The composition of Example 1 represents the composition of the present invention.
[0117] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not contain glycolipids.
[0118] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not contain alkyl sulfosuccinate salts.
[0119] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not contain an amphoteric surfactant.
[0120] The composition of Comparative Example 4 contains disodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate instead of alkyl sulfosuccinate salt.
[0121] Preparation process The composition is prepared as follows.
[0122] Mix all raw materials and add water to bring the total weight to 100% to obtain a mixture. Next, heat the mixture to 60°C with stirring and then cool it to 30°C.
[0123] Evaluate Evaluate the stability, foam volume, makeup removal ability, and skin feel provided by each composition prepared above.
[0124] stability The stability of each of the above compositions was evaluated immediately after their preparation and is summarized in Table 3.
[0125] If no water separation occurs, the composition is evaluated as "homogeneous"; otherwise, it is evaluated as "separated." Here, the term "separated" means that the composition system is unstable and the aqueous phase is at least partially separated from the composition.
[0126] Table 3 IE. 1 CE. 1 CE. 2 CE. 3 CE. 4 stability homogenization homogenization Separation homogenization Separation As can be seen from Table 3, the composition according to the present invention is stable and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0127] Foam volume, makeup removal ability, and skin feel The obtained composition was evaluated by 10 trained volunteers in terms of foam volume, makeup removal ability, and skin feel (especially skin smoothness).
[0128] Apply waterproof mascara (Maybelline Sky High) to your forearm and let it dry for 60 minutes.
[0129] Place 1 g of each of the IE.1 and CE.1-4 compositions on wet hands, then rub for 30 rounds before applying to makeup. Next, rub for 30 rounds to melt the makeup. Tap water is then added to emulsify and foam to assess foam volume. The forearm is compared before and after applying each of the IE.1 and CE.1-4 compositions to assess makeup removal ability. Skin smoothness is then assessed 2 minutes after rinsing and towel drying.
[0130] Based on the following criteria, the foam volume is rated from 0 to 4, and the makeup removal ability and skin smoothness are rated from 0 to 5.
[0131] Foam volume >3, ≤4: More than half a palm >2, ≤3: More bubbles but smaller than half a palm >1, ≤2: Display some bubbles >0, ≤1: No bubbles formed Makeup removal ability >4, ≤5: Removes almost all makeup >3, ≤4: Removes some makeup, but some makeup residue remains. >2, ≤3: Remove half of the makeup >1, ≤2: Slight removal >0, ≤1: Not removed Skin sensation >4, ≤5: Very moisturizing and smooth >3, ≤4: Smooth >2, ≤3: Slightly rough >1, ≤2: rough >0, ≤1: Dryness, tightness, stagnation Ten volunteers rated the foam volume, makeup removal ability, and skin smoothness, and the average value and rounding were then summarized in Table 4.
[0132] Table 4 IE. 1 CE. 1 CE. 2 CE. 3 CE. 4 Foam volume 4 4 N / A 2 N / A Makeup removal ability 5 4 N / A 5 N / A skin smoothness 5 4 N / A 5 N / A NA: Not evaluated.
[0133] As can be seen from Table 4, the composition according to the present invention can produce a large foam volume and good makeup removal ability, and deliver a very moisturizing and smooth feeling on the skin.
Claims
1. A composition preferably used for cleaning keratin materials and / or removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one glycolipid; (ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate salt; and (iii) At least one amphoteric surfactant.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipid, glucose lipolipid, sophorolipid, trehalolipid, cellobiolipid and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the glycolipid is selected from monorhamnolipids and dirhamnolipids corresponding to formula (VI): (WE) in: - m represents an integer equal to 2, 1, or 0. - n represents an integer equal to 1 or 0, and R1 and R2 each independently represent the same or different hydrocarbon groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, especially hydroxylated, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably monounsaturated, diunsaturated or triunsaturated hydrocarbon groups.
4. The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the glycolipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition according to any one of claims 1-4, wherein the alkyl sulfosuccinate salt is selected from monoalkyl sulfosuccinate salts or dialkyl sulfosuccinate salts, wherein the alkyl group has 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and the counterion of the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions; preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate salt is selected from disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, and mixtures thereof.
6. The composition according to any one of claims 1-5, wherein the alkyl sulfosuccinate salt is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition according to any one of claims 1-6, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives; preferably selected from (C8-C6) amine derivatives. 20 )alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C1-C6) alkyl betaine and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoyl betaine and mixtures thereof.
8. The composition according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and most preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition of claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, ranging from 1% to 7% by weight; (ii) 1% to 7% by weight of at least one alkyl sulfonyl succinate salt selected from dialkyl sulfonyl succinate salts, wherein the alkyl group has 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion of the sulfonic acid group is selected from an alkali metal cation; and (iii) 2% to 8% by weight of at least one ingredient selected from (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C1-C6) alkyl betaine amphoteric surfactant.
10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising an oil, preferably selected from vegetable oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from vegetable oils and C2-C... 10 Alkyl palmitate, C2-C 10 Alkyl myristate esters and mixtures thereof, or even more preferably selected from sunflower oil, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof.
11. The composition according to any one of claims 10, wherein the oil is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising water, preferably in an amount ranging from 5% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, more preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.
14. A non-therapeutic method for cleaning keratinous materials, particularly skin, and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, particularly skin, comprising applying to said keratinous material, particularly skin The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, and the composition is washed off after an optional period of time.