Anti-aging repair essence and preparation method thereof
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202611020973.0
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-07-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-09-25
AI Technical Summary
[0005]本发明的目的是提供一种抗老修护精华液及其制备方法,旨在解决现有抗老精华液去角质效果与温和性难以兼得、缺乏系统性舒缓修复设计、活性物稳定性差的问题
[0035](1)去角质效果显著:通过多层次酸类复配和天然果提取物的协同作用,可显著提高角质层剥脱率。经体外角质层剥脱实验(参考行业标准T/SHRH 073-2025方法)测定,本发明实施例1制备的精华液处理48小时后,角质层剥脱率可达40%以上,显著优于仅使用单一酸类或简单酸类复配的对比例。
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of cosmetic technology, and in particular to an anti-aging and repairing serum and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] With the improvement of people's living standards and the enhancement of skin care awareness, anti-aging cosmetics are receiving increasing attention from consumers. Serums, as functional skincare products, occupy an important position among anti-aging products. Currently, anti-aging serums on the market are mainly divided into two categories: one is single or simple compound acid products, with glycolic acid, lactic acid, etc., as the main active ingredients. Although they have a certain exfoliating and skin renewal-promoting effect, they are highly irritating and can easily cause skin redness, stinging, and barrier damage, making them especially unsuitable for sensitive skin; the other category is plant extract products, mainly composed of natural plant ingredients, which are relatively safe, but their exfoliating and anti-aging effects are gentler and slower to take effect, making them difficult to meet the needs of people with moderate to severe photoaging or significant keratin buildup.
[0003] Existing technologies have made some attempts to combine acids with plant extracts. For example, Chinese patent CN115645323B discloses an acne-reducing and oil-controlling composition containing five acids: succinic acid, salicylic acid, lactobionic acid, glycolic acid, and folic acid, combined with various plant extracts. However, it mainly targets acne-reducing and oil-controlling effects, lacking a systematic design for skin barrier repair and soothing anti-inflammation. Furthermore, the preparation process does not adequately protect high-temperature sensitive active ingredients. Another example is Chinese patent CN115212126B, which discloses a soothing and anti-inflammatory compound acid conditioning and rejuvenating lotion using a compound acid system including salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and mandelic acid. However, its soothing and anti-inflammatory system is relatively simple and lacks a systematic design for repairing the skin barrier after exfoliation. In addition, existing compound acid products generally have the following technical defects: (1) lack of synergistic design for multi-layer exfoliation effect; (2) insufficient buffering and soothing system for acid stimulation; (3) insufficient long-term stability of products, and acid active ingredients are easily degraded and ineffective; (4) high temperature conditions during preparation cause active ingredients to be deactivated.
[0004] Therefore, developing an anti-aging and repairing serum that has significant exfoliating effects, low irritation, good stability, and barrier repair functions is of great practical significance. Summary of the Invention
[0005] The purpose of this invention is to provide an anti-aging repair serum and its preparation method, aiming to solve the problems of existing anti-aging serums that are difficult to achieve both exfoliation effect and gentleness, lack of systematic soothing and repair design, and poor stability of active ingredients.
[0006] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention adopts the following technical solution:
[0007] In a first aspect, the present invention provides an anti-aging and repairing essence comprising an exfoliating complex acid component, a natural fruit extract component, and a soothing and repairing component; wherein the exfoliating complex acid component is composed of mandelic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, and gluconolactone; the natural fruit extract component is composed of blueberry fruit extract, sugarcane extract, lime fruit extract, lemon fruit extract, and sugar maple extract; and the soothing and repairing component is composed of panthenol, sodium guaiacol, camellia extract, purslane extract, and tranexamic acid.
[0008] The core design concept of this invention lies in "the hierarchical compounding of acidic components + the synergistic effect of naturally derived active ingredients + the targeted design of a soothing and repairing system". This invention achieves controllable, multi-layered exfoliation of the stratum corneum through a gradient compounding of acids with different molecular weights and depths of action; it utilizes natural acids and polyphenols provided by natural fruit extracts to synergistically enhance the effects of synthetic acids, reducing the amount of synthetic acids used; and it constructs a triple soothing-anti-inflammatory-repairing system through soothing and repairing components to effectively alleviate skin irritation caused by acidic components and repair the fragile skin barrier after exfoliation; ultimately achieving a highly effective, gentle, and stable anti-aging and repairing effect.
[0009] The exfoliating complex acid system is composed of six acids: mandelic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, and gluconolactone. Glycolic acid, the smallest molecular weight α-hydroxy acid (AHA), penetrates quickly and primarily acts on the stratum corneum of the skin's surface, rapidly softening and exfoliating old keratinocytes. Mandelic acid, a medium molecular weight aromatic AHA, possesses both lipophilic and hydrophilic properties, allowing it to penetrate deep into pores while also offering some whitening and antibacterial effects. Malic acid, tartaric acid, and lactic acid act as auxiliary AHAs, synergistically enhancing the exfoliating effect and helping to maintain system stability. Gluconolactone, a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), has a larger molecular weight and a gentler effect, primarily acting on the outermost layer of the skin to provide a gradual exfoliation effect and also possesses antioxidant functions. This complex acid system, through the rational combination of acids with different molecular weights and depths of action, achieves gentle, layer-by-layer exfoliation from the surface, middle, and deep layers of the skin.
[0010] The natural fruit extract component consists of five ingredients: European blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) fruit extract, sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum) extract, lime (Citrus aurantium) fruit extract, lemon (Citrus limon) fruit extract, and sugar maple (Acer saccharum) extract. These five extracts are rich in naturally derived AHAs and polyphenols, which work synergistically with synthetic acids to enhance exfoliation while providing antioxidant benefits. They also reduce the concentration of synthetic acids used, minimizing skin irritation.
[0011] The soothing and repairing formula consists of five ingredients: panthenol, sodium guaiacol, camellia (Camellia japonica) flower extract, purslane (Portulaca oleracea) extract, and tranexamic acid. Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, can be converted into pantothenic acid in the skin, promoting fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, and accelerating skin barrier repair. Sodium guaiacol is a natural active ingredient extracted from plants in the Asteraceae family, possessing significant anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, and tissue repair and regeneration effects, effectively relieving skin irritation and redness caused by acidic ingredients. Camellia flower extract is rich in various antioxidants, possessing antioxidant and soothing effects. Purslane extract has soothing and antioxidant effects. Tranexamic acid has whitening and spot-fading effects, as well as soothing and anti-inflammatory effects, helping to brighten the skin tone and repair the skin barrier, making it relatively friendly to sensitive skin. The five ingredients work synergistically to form a complete soothing-anti-inflammatory-repair triple mechanism, effectively relieving acidic irritation and repairing the skin barrier.
[0012] In some specific technical solutions, based on the total weight percentage of the essence, the content of mandelic acid is 0.5%~5%, glycolic acid is 0.04%~1%, malic acid is 0.04%~1%, tartaric acid is 0.04%~1%, lactic acid is 0.04%~1%, gluconolactone is 0.1%~1%, blueberry fruit extract is 0.002%~2.4%, and sugarcane extract is 0.002%~2%. The content of the following components is as follows: 0.4%, lime fruit extract 0.002%~2.4%, lemon fruit extract 0.002%~2.4%, sugar maple extract 0.002%~2.4%, panthenol 0.1%~2%, sodium guaiacol sodium sulfonate 0.005%~0.5%, camellia flower extract 0.01%~0.5%, purslane extract 0.1%~2.5%, and tranexamic acid 0.1%~3%.
[0013] In some preferred technical solutions, based on the total weight percentage of the essence, the content of mandelic acid is 1%~4.5%, the content of glycolic acid is 0.1%~0.8%, the content of malic acid is 0.1%~0.8%, the content of tartaric acid is 0.1%~0.6%, the content of lactic acid is 0.1%~0.8%, the content of gluconolactone is 0.2%~0.8%, the content of blueberry fruit extract is 0.1%~0.6%, and the content of sugarcane extract is 0%. The content of the following components is 1%~0.6%, including: lime fruit extract (0.1%~0.6%), lemon fruit extract (0.1%~0.6%), sugar maple extract (0.1%~0.6%), panthenol (0.5%~1.5%), sodium guaiac sulfonate (0.05%~0.3%), camellia flower extract (0.1%~0.4%), purslane extract (0.2%~1.5%), and tranexamic acid (0.3%~2%).
[0014] In some improved technical solutions, the serum further includes 2.5% to 28% moisturizer, 0.2% to 4.5% thickening stabilizer, 0.2% to 3.5% preservative, 0.05% to 1.5% pH buffer, and the balance being water, based on the total weight percentage of the serum.
[0015] In some preferred technical solutions, the serum further comprises, by weight percentage, 5.75% to 19.25% of a moisturizer, 0.55% to 2.4% of a thickening stabilizer, 0.5% to 2.2% of a preservative, 0.15% to 0.7% of a pH buffer, and the balance being water.
[0016] In some preferred embodiments, the moisturizer is selected from at least one of glyceryl polyether-26, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, and glycerin.
[0017] In some specific technical solutions, the moisturizer is composed of glyceryl polyether-26, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, and glycerin. Specifically, based on the total weight percentage of the serum, the content of glyceryl polyether-26 is 1%–8%, dipropylene glycol is 1%–8%, erythritol is 0.5%–5%, butylene glycol is 0.1%–2.5%, sodium hyaluronate is 0.01%–0.3%, and glycerin is 0.04%–1.2%. These polyol moisturizers have excellent hydration capabilities, and sodium hyaluronate is a powerful moisturizer that can form a moisturizing film on the skin surface, locking in moisture and relieving the dryness and tightness after exfoliation.
[0018] In some preferred technical solutions, the content of glyceryl polyether-26 is 2%~6%, the content of dipropylene glycol is 2%~5%, the content of erythritol is 1%~4%, the content of butylene glycol is 0.5%~2%, the content of sodium hyaluronate is 0.05%~0.25%, and the content of glycerin is 0.2%~1%, based on the total weight percentage of the essence.
[0019] In some preferred embodiments, the thickening stabilizer is selected from at least one of xanthan gum, safflower gum, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, polysorbate-80, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
[0020] In some specific technical solutions, the thickening stabilizer is composed of xanthan gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, polysorbate-80, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Specifically, based on the total weight percentage of the essence, the content of xanthan gum is 0.1%~1%, the content of Caesalpinia spinosa gum is 0.02%~0.6%, the content of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane is 0.1%~1%, the content of polysorbate-80 is 0.005%~0.5%, and the content of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is 0.01%~1%. Xanthan gum and saffron gum form a natural thickening system, providing suitable viscosity and suspension stability; bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane improves spreadability and skin feel; polysorbate-80 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil act as solubilizers and emulsifiers, ensuring uniform dispersion of all components in the formulation.
[0021] In some preferred technical solutions, the content of xanthan gum is 0.15%~0.5% by weight of the total essence, the content of aralia elata gum is 0.05%~0.3%, the content of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane is 0.2%~0.8%, the content of polysorbate-80 is 0.05%~0.3%, and the content of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is 0.1%~0.5%.
[0022] In some specific technical solutions, the preservative is composed of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, sodium benzoate, and potassium sorbate. Specifically, based on the total weight percentage of the essence, the content of p-hydroxyacetophenone is 0.1%~1%, the content of 1,2-hexanediol is 0.1%~1%, the content of sodium benzoate is 0.02%~0.6%, and the content of potassium sorbate is 0.02%~0.6%. This preservative system provides broad-spectrum antibacterial and preservative effects at low dosages. When p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1,2-hexanediol are used in combination, they produce a synergistic preservative effect while being gentle and non-irritating to the skin.
[0023] In some preferred technical solutions, the content of p-hydroxyacetophenone is 0.2%~0.8% by weight of the total essence, the content of 1,2-hexanediol is 0.2%~0.8%, the content of sodium benzoate is 0.05%~0.3%, and the content of potassium sorbate is 0.05%~0.3%.
[0024] In some specific technical solutions, the pH buffer is composed of sodium citrate and sodium malate, wherein, based on the total weight percentage of the essence, the content of sodium citrate is 0.01%~0.5%, and the content of sodium malate is 0.04%~1%. The pH of the complex acid system directly affects the exfoliation effect and skin tolerance. Sodium citrate and sodium malate, as a buffer pair, stabilize the product's pH within a mildly acidic range of 3.5~4.5, ensuring the exfoliating efficacy of the acidic active ingredients while avoiding excessive irritation to the skin due to excessively low pH.
[0025] In some preferred technical solutions, the content of sodium citrate is 0.1% to 0.4% and the content of sodium malate is 0.05% to 0.3% by weight of the total essence.
[0026] Secondly, the present invention also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned anti-aging and repairing essence, comprising the following steps:
[0027] (1) Add a portion of water, exfoliating compound acid components, glycerol polyether-26, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, panthenol, glycerol, safflower gum, sodium malate, sodium benzoate, and potassium sorbate into the main pot, heat to 80℃~85℃, homogenize for 5~10 minutes, and stir until dissolved evenly to obtain premixed solution A;
[0028] (2) Cool the premix A to 40℃~50℃, add the purslane extract and sodium hyaluronate that have been dissolved in the remaining water, stir evenly to obtain the mixture B;
[0029] (3) After pre-mixing and dispersing dipropylene glycol and xanthan gum evenly, add them to mixture B and stir evenly to obtain mixture C;
[0030] (4) Add erythritol, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, tranexamic acid and sodium citrate to mixture C, stir well to obtain mixture D;
[0031] (5) Add the natural fruit extract components to mixture D and stir for 10-20 minutes until completely homogeneous to obtain mixture E;
[0032] (6) Cool the mixture E to 35~40℃, add sodium guaiacol sulfonate, polysorbate-80, camellia extract and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil in sequence, stir evenly to obtain mixture F;
[0033] (7) Filter, discharge and fill the mixture F.
[0034] Compared with the prior art, the present invention provides an anti-aging repair serum and its preparation method, which has the following beneficial effects:
[0035] (1) Significant exfoliation effect: Through the synergistic effect of multi-layered acid compound and natural fruit extract, the exfoliation rate of the stratum corneum can be significantly improved. According to the in vitro stratum corneum exfoliation experiment (referring to the industry standard T / SHRH 073-2025 method), after treatment with the essence prepared in Example 1 of this invention for 48 hours, the stratum corneum exfoliation rate can reach more than 40%, which is significantly better than the comparative example using only a single acid or a simple acid compound.
[0036] (2) Significantly reduced irritation: via recombinant human epidermal models (e.g., EpiKutis) ® (Model) Cell toxicity test results showed that after 24 hours of treatment with the essence prepared in Example 1 of this invention, the cell survival rate reached over 90%, which was significantly better than the 60%~70% of the control group with single glycolic acid (equal total acid concentration). This proves that the compound acid system and the soothing and repairing system of this invention work synergistically to effectively reduce the irritation of acidic components to the skin.
[0037] (3) Barrier repair function: The skin transepidermal water loss (TEWL) test showed that after 7 days of continuous treatment with the essence prepared in Example 1 of this invention, the skin TEWL value decreased significantly (TEWL change value was negative), indicating that the skin barrier function was improved. In contrast, the formula without soothing and repairing components in the comparative example showed an increase in TEWL value or no significant change under the same conditions, proving that the triple soothing and repairing system constructed by panthenol, sodium guaiac sulfonate, camellia extract, purslane extract and tranexamic acid can effectively promote skin barrier repair.
[0038] (4) Good product stability: Through the pH buffer system of sodium citrate and sodium malate, the pH value of the product is stable within a mildly acidic range of 3.5 to 4.5. After accelerated stability test (stored for 3 months under 40℃±2℃ / 75%RH±5%RH conditions), the pH value of the essence of this invention changes by ≤0.3, the content of acidic active ingredients decreases by ≤5%, and the product appearance shows no layering, discoloration, or precipitation, demonstrating good shelf-life stability.
[0039] (5) Refreshing and comfortable to the skin: The product uses a polyol moisturizing system and a natural thickening system of xanthan gum and strychnine gum. The product has a light texture, good spreadability, and is easy to apply and absorb. It does not feel sticky after use.
[0040] (6) The preparation process is mild and controllable: The low-temperature stepwise addition process is adopted, and the heat-sensitive active ingredients (such as natural fruit extract components, camellia extract, sodium guaiac sulfonate, etc.) are added after the temperature is lowered in the later stage, which avoids the destruction of active ingredients by high temperature and ensures the full exertion of product efficacy; at the same time, the stepwise stirring process ensures the uniform dispersion of each component in the system. Detailed Implementation
[0041] The technical solution of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below through detailed embodiments. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0042] Unless otherwise specified, the experimental methods used in the examples and comparative examples are conventional methods; unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used are all commercially available raw materials in the cosmetics field, which can be purchased through commercial channels, and their purity meets the relevant requirements of the national or industry standards for cosmetic raw materials.
[0043] Example 1
[0044] This embodiment provides an anti-aging repair serum, composed of the following ingredients by weight percentage:
[0045] Exfoliating compound acid components: mandelic acid 3%, glycolic acid 0.5%, malic acid 0.3%, tartaric acid 0.2%, lactic acid 0.3%, gluconolactone 0.5%;
[0046] Natural fruit extract components: European blueberry fruit extract 0.3%, sugarcane extract 0.3%, lime fruit extract 0.3%, lemon fruit extract 0.3%, sugar maple extract 0.3%;
[0047] Soothing and repairing ingredients: Panthenol 1%, Sodium guaiacol sulfonate 0.1%, Camellia extract 0.2%, Portulaca oleracea extract 0.5%, Tranexamic acid 1%;
[0048] Moisturizers: Glyceryl ether-26 4%, dipropylene glycol 3%, erythritol 2%, butylene glycol 1%, sodium hyaluronate 0.1%, glycerin 0.5%;
[0049] Thickening and stabilizing agents: xanthan gum 0.3%, argan gum 0.1%, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane 0.5%, polysorbate-80 0.1%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.2%;
[0050] Preservatives: p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.5%, 1,2-hexanediol 0.5%, sodium benzoate 0.1%, potassium sorbate 0.1%;
[0051] pH buffer: sodium citrate 0.2%, sodium malate 0.1%;
[0052] And the remaining purified water.
[0053] The preparation method of this anti-aging and repairing serum includes the following steps:
[0054] (1) Add 70% purified water, exfoliating compound acid components, glycerol polyether-26, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, panthenol, glycerol, argan gum, sodium malate, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate into the main pot, turn on the stirrer, heat to 82℃, homogenize at 82℃±2℃ for 5 minutes, and control the stirring speed at 20~30 rpm until all materials are dissolved and uniform to obtain premixed liquid A;
[0055] (2) Cool the premix A to 45°C, add the purslane extract and sodium hyaluronate that have been dissolved in the remaining 30% of purified water, and stir at 20-25 rpm for 5 minutes until uniform to obtain mixture B;
[0056] (3) After pre-mixing and dispersing dipropylene glycol and xanthan gum evenly, add them to mixture B and stir at a speed of 25~30 rpm for 8 minutes until uniform to obtain mixture C;
[0057] (4) Add erythritol, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, tranexamic acid and sodium citrate to mixture C in sequence. Stir for 2-3 minutes after each addition, and finally continue stirring at 25-30 rpm for 5 minutes until homogeneous to obtain mixture D.
[0058] (5) Add the natural fruit extract components to the mixture D and stir at a speed of 20-25 rpm for 15 minutes until completely homogeneous to obtain the mixture E;
[0059] (6) Cool the mixture E to 38°C, and add sodium guaiac sulfonate, polysorbate-80, camellia extract and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil in sequence. Stir for 3 minutes after each addition, and finally continue stirring at 20~25 rpm for 10 minutes until uniform to obtain mixture F.
[0060] (7) Filter the mixture F through a 200-mesh filter cloth, take a sample for initial inspection (the test items include pH value, appearance, viscosity, etc.), and after passing the inspection, discharge the material and store it in a clean and sealed container, and report it for finished product inspection.
[0061] (8) After the finished product passes inspection, it is filled into a suitable packaging container, and then inspected again. After passing inspection, it is put into the warehouse and shipped out.
[0062] Example 2
[0063] This embodiment provides an anti-aging repair serum, composed of the following ingredients by weight percentage:
[0064] Exfoliating compound acid components: mandelic acid 1%, glycolic acid 0.1%, malic acid 0.1%, tartaric acid 0.1%, lactic acid 0.1%, gluconolactone 0.2%;
[0065] Natural fruit extract components: European blueberry fruit extract 0.1%, sugarcane extract 0.1%, lime fruit extract 0.1%, lemon fruit extract 0.1%, sugar maple extract 0.1%;
[0066] Soothing and repairing ingredients: Panthenol 0.5%, Sodium guaiac sulfonate 0.05%, Camellia extract 0.1%, Portulaca extract 0.2%, Tranexamic acid 0.3%;
[0067] Moisturizers: Glyceryl polyether-26 2%, dipropylene glycol 2%, erythritol 1%, butylene glycol 0.5%, sodium hyaluronate 0.05%, glycerin 0.2%;
[0068] Thickening and stabilizing agents: xanthan gum 0.15%, safflower gum 0.05%, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane 0.2%, polysorbate-80 0.05%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.1%;
[0069] Preservatives: p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.2%, 1,2-hexanediol 0.2%, sodium benzoate 0.05%, potassium sorbate 0.05%;
[0070] pH buffer: sodium citrate 0.1%, sodium malate 0.05%;
[0071] And the remaining purified water.
[0072] The preparation method of this anti-aging repair essence is basically the same as that in Example 1, except that the homogenization temperature in step (1) is adjusted to 80℃±2℃.
[0073] Example 3
[0074] This embodiment provides an anti-aging repair serum, composed of the following ingredients by weight percentage:
[0075] Exfoliating complex acid components: mandelic acid 4.5%, glycolic acid 0.8%, malic acid 0.8%, tartaric acid 0.6%, lactic acid 0.8%, gluconolactone 0.8%;
[0076] Natural fruit extract components: European blueberry fruit extract 0.6%, sugarcane extract 0.6%, lime fruit extract 0.6%, lemon fruit extract 0.6%, sugar maple extract 0.6%;
[0077] Soothing and repairing ingredients: Panthenol 1.5%, Sodium guaiac sulfonate 0.3%, Camellia extract 0.4%, Portulaca oleracea extract 1.5%, Tranexamic acid 2%;
[0078] Moisturizers: Glyceryl polyether-26 6%, dipropylene glycol 6%, erythritol 4%, butylene glycol 2%, sodium hyaluronate 0.25%, glycerin 1%;
[0079] Thickening and stabilizing agents: xanthan gum 0.5%, argan gum 0.3%, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane 0.8%, polysorbate-80 0.3%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5%;
[0080] Preservatives: p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.8%, 1,2-hexanediol 0.8%, sodium benzoate 0.3%, potassium sorbate 0.3%;
[0081] pH buffer: sodium citrate 0.4%, sodium malate 0.3%;
[0082] And the remaining purified water.
[0083] The preparation method of this anti-aging repair essence is basically the same as that in Example 1, except that the homogenization temperature in step (1) is adjusted to 85℃±2℃.
[0084] Comparative Example 1
[0085] This comparative example provides an anti-aging repair serum with a formula that is basically the same as that of Example 1, except that the soothing and repairing components have been removed and purified water has been added to make up 100%.
[0086] The preparation method of the anti-aging repair serum in this comparative example is basically the same as that in Example 1, except that no soothing and repairing components are added in the corresponding steps, while the remaining operation steps and process parameters are exactly the same as in Example 1.
[0087] This comparative example is used to verify the synergistic effect of the soothing and repairing components in this invention on reducing irritation and repairing the skin barrier.
[0088] Comparative Example 2
[0089] This comparative example provides an anti-aging and repairing serum with a formula that is basically the same as that of Example 1. The difference is that only glycolic acid is used as the sole acid component, and the amount of glycolic acid is 4.8% (which is consistent with the total amount of exfoliating complex acid components in Example 1). Mandelic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, and gluconolactone are removed, and the remaining components are the same as those in Example 1.
[0090] The preparation method of the anti-aging repair essence in this comparative example is basically the same as that in Example 1, except that: only glycolic acid is added in step (1), and mandelic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and gluconolactone are not added. The remaining operation steps and process parameters are exactly the same as those in Example 1.
[0091] This comparative example is used to verify the superiority of the composite acid system in this invention compared to the single acid system.
[0092] Comparative Example 3
[0093] This comparative example provides an anti-aging repair serum with a formula that is basically the same as that of Example 1, except that the natural fruit extract component is removed and purified water is added to make up 100%.
[0094] The preparation method of the anti-aging repair essence in this comparative example is basically the same as that in Example 1, except that: no natural fruit extract component is added in step (5), and the remaining operation steps and process parameters are exactly the same as those in Example 1.
[0095] This comparative example is used to verify the synergistic effect of the natural fruit extract components in this invention on enhancing exfoliation and reducing the amount of synthetic acid used.
[0096] Comparative Example 4
[0097] This comparative example provides an anti-aging repair serum with a formula that is basically the same as that of Example 1, except that the amount of mandelic acid is reduced to 0.3%, the amount of glycolic acid is reduced to 0.02%, the amount of malic acid is reduced to 0.02%, the amount of tartaric acid is reduced to 0.02%, the amount of lactic acid is reduced to 0.02%, the amount of gluconolactone is reduced to 0.05%, and purified water is added to make up to 100%.
[0098] The preparation method of the anti-aging repair essence in this comparative example is basically the same as that in Example 1, except that the amount of mandelic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, and gluconolactone is reduced, while the remaining operation steps and process parameters are exactly the same as in Example 1.
[0099] This comparative example is used to examine the effect changes when the amount of acid used is lower than the lower limit of the scope of this invention.
[0100] Comparative Example 5
[0101] This comparative example provides an anti-aging repair serum with the exact same formula as Example 1.
[0102] The preparation method of this comparative anti-aging repair essence adopts a high-temperature one-time addition process: all components are added into the main pot at one time, heated to 80~85℃, homogenized for 15 minutes, stirred until completely dissolved and uniform, and then cooled to 38℃ for discharge.
[0103] This comparative example is used to verify the effect of the low-temperature stepwise addition process of the present invention on protecting heat-sensitive active ingredients and improving product stability.
[0104] Testing and effect verification
[0105] I. Test Sample
[0106] The serums prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were used as test samples. Three parallel samples were taken from each batch for testing, and the results are expressed as the average value.
[0107] II. Testing Methods
[0108] (1) Determination of stratum corneum peeling rate
[0109] The determination was conducted in accordance with the basic principles for evaluating the exfoliating efficacy of cosmetics as outlined in T / SHRH 073-2025 "Test Method for Evaluating the Exfoliating Efficacy of Cosmetics" published by the Shanghai Daily Chemical Products Industry Association. Prior to testing, necessary skin safety assessments (including human skin patch tests) were completed according to the standard requirements to ensure that the sample safety met the requirements for human testing.
[0110] Test principle: The transparent tape method (D-Squame method) is used to continuously stick the tape to the skin surface, collect the exfoliated stratum corneum cells, and use the transmittance method to determine the amount of stratum corneum exfoliation.
[0111] Test material: D-Squame D100 adhesive patch (Cuderm Corporation, USA). This adhesive patch is coated with an adhesive material, which can uniformly collect stratum corneum cells and is widely used in the study of physiological and pathological changes in the stratum corneum.
[0112] Test method: The D-Squame patch was applied to the skin surface of the inner forearm of the subject under constant pressure and then quickly peeled off. The patch was collected. The patch was placed in a scanner to acquire images, and the area of keratinocyte coverage in the images was analyzed using ImageJ software (expressed as the proportion of pixels occupied by keratinocytes in the D-Squame patch image). The keratinocyte peeling rate was calculated by comparing it with the blank control.
[0113] Test conditions: Thirty healthy female subjects aged 25-55 years were selected, with no skin diseases, no skin lesions on the inner forearm, and no use of any exfoliating products or cosmetic treatments in the past 3 months. Nine square test areas, 4cm long and 4cm wide, were marked on the inner forearm of each subject's left and right hands, with a minimum interval of 2cm between areas; the nine areas corresponded to Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-5, and a blank control group (no product used); the sample allocation for each area was randomized to avoid position effects.
[0114] Product usage instructions: Use once in the morning and once in the evening. Apply approximately 20 μL of sample to the corresponding test area each time and gently massage until absorbed. If the subject experiences any skin discomfort during the test, discontinue use immediately and take appropriate medical precautions.
[0115] Data Collection: Before testing (T0) and 48 hours after product use (T48), samples were taken using D-Squame adhesive patches to analyze the area of keratinocytes covered before and after use. Each test area was sampled once, and nine sets of data were provided for each subject (8 samples + 1 blank control). A total of 30 subjects were involved, and 30 valid data points were obtained from each sample. The peeling rate (%) was calculated as the percentage reduction in keratinocyte coverage area after use relative to the area covered before use.
[0116] (2) Cell viability assay (stimulation evaluation)
[0117] The determination was performed according to the basic principles of the MTT method in T / SHRH 008-2018 "Cosmetics - In vitro skin irritation test method (SIT)" and ISO 10993-5:2009 "Medical devices - Biological evaluation - Part 5: In vitro cytotoxicity test". The T / SHRH 008-2018 standard adopts the EpiKutis method. ® The 3D epidermal model assesses the skin irritation of cosmetic ingredients by measuring cell viability using the MTT assay, which is consistent with the principle of the MTT assay in ISO 10993-5:2009, and is more suitable for the evaluation needs in the cosmetic field.
[0118] Test model: Recombinant human epidermal model EpiKutis ® (Guangdong Boxi Biotechnology Co., Ltd.) This model meets the requirements of the OECD TG 439 recommended method for detecting skin irritation and can be used for qualitative detection of skin irritation in cosmetics.
[0119] Test Method: Recombinant human epidermal models were equilibrated in a 37°C, 5% CO2 incubator for 24 hours. For the sample group, 40 μL of test sample (Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-5) was evenly spread onto the surface of the epidermal model, with three replicates per sample. For the negative control group, 40 μL of PBS buffer was evenly spread onto the surface of the epidermal model, with three replicates. For the positive control group, 40 μL of 1% Triton X-100 solution was evenly spread onto the surface of the epidermal model, with three replicates. The blank group (background correction wells) consisted of wells without epidermal model inoculation, containing only an equal volume of culture medium, with three replicates, used to correct the background absorbance of the culture medium and plastic containers. All samples and control groups were cultured under identical conditions. After incubation at 37°C, 5% CO2 for 24 hours, the epidermal models were removed, and residual sample on the surface was washed three times with PBS. The epidermal model was transferred to a medium containing MTT (thiazolyl blue, 0.5 mg / mL) and incubated at 37°C for 3 hours. The culture medium was removed, and isopropanol was added to extract the purple formazan crystals. The absorbance (OD value) was measured at 570 nm.
[0120] Cell viability calculation formula: Cell viability (%) = (OD sample group - OD blank group) / (OD negative control group - OD blank group) × 100%; where, the OD sample group is the absorbance value measured after adding the test sample (example or comparative example), reflecting the metabolic activity of cells in the epidermal model after sample treatment; the OD negative control group is the absorbance value measured after adding PBS (non-cytotoxic solvent), representing the maximum metabolic activity of the epidermal model under normal culture conditions; the OD blank group is the background absorbance value of the culture medium without the epidermal model, used to subtract background interference from culture medium, MTT reagent, and plastic consumables. The positive control group (1% Triton X-100) data is used to confirm the effectiveness of the test system (cell viability should be significantly lower than that of the negative control group), but is not included in the calculation formula.
[0121] Results interpretation: Cell viability ≥80% is considered non-cytotoxic, 60%~80% is considered mildly cytotoxic, and <60% is considered cytotoxic.
[0122] (3) Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
[0123] Based on the relevant principles for skin barrier function evaluation in the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition), the skin TEWL value (g / h·m) was determined using a Tewameter® TM300 (Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany). 2 ).
[0124] Test conditions: ambient temperature 22℃±1℃, relative humidity 50%±5%, in accordance with the relevant provisions of the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition).
[0125] Subjects: 30 healthy female subjects aged 25-55 years were selected (the same group of subjects as those measured for stratum corneum exfoliation rate).
[0126] Test areas: Nine square test areas, each 4 cm long and 4 cm wide, were marked on the inner side of each subject's left and right forearms. These nine areas corresponded to Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-5, and the blank control group (using no product). Area allocation was randomized.
[0127] Testing Procedure: Measurements were taken before product use (baseline value, T0) and after 7 days of continuous product use (T7). During measurement, the probe was held perpendicular to the skin surface and in close contact. Data was recorded after the readings stabilized. Measurements were repeated three times for each test area, and the average value was taken.
[0128] Product usage instructions: During the testing period, subjects should clean their skin normally and use the test sample once in the morning and once in the evening. After applying the sample to the test area, gently massage until absorbed.
[0129] Calculate the change in TEWL after use (ΔTEWL), ΔTEWL (g / h·m 2 ΔTEWL equals the TEWL value of T7 minus the TEWL value of T0. A negative ΔTEWL indicates improved skin barrier function, with a larger absolute value indicating more significant improvement; a positive ΔTEWL indicates impaired skin barrier function.
[0130] (4) pH stability determination
[0131] pH values were measured using a pH meter (Mettler-Toledo SevenCompact™ S210 or equivalent) in accordance with the pH measurement method in the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition).
[0132] Accelerated stability test conditions: Samples from Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were placed in a constant temperature and humidity chamber (40℃±2℃, relative humidity 75%RH±5%RH) for 3 months. Samples were removed before storage (0 months) and after 3 months of storage, and the pH value was measured after equilibration at room temperature. The corresponding pH change value (ΔpH) was calculated, which is equal to the pH value after 3 months of storage minus the pH value before storage.
[0133] At the same time, observe the appearance changes of the sample before and after accelerated stability storage (including whether there are phenomena such as layering, discoloration, precipitation, etc.).
[0134] III. Test Results
[0135] Table 1. Summary of test results for Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-5
[0136] IV. Results Analysis
[0137] (1) Analysis of the effect of stratum corneum exfoliation
[0138] As can be seen from the stratum corneum exfoliation rate data in Table 1, the stratum corneum exfoliation rates of Examples 1-3 were 45.2%, 41.8%, and 48.5%, respectively, all higher than the 36.2% of Comparative Example 3 (without natural fruit extract components) and the 18.6% of Comparative Example 4 (with lower acid content). This indicates that the multi-layered composite acid system of the present invention, combined with various natural fruit extracts, significantly enhances the exfoliation effect. Example 3 achieved the highest exfoliation rate of 48.5% due to its higher total acid and natural fruit extract content. Although Comparative Example 2 (single acid system) had an exfoliation rate as high as 52.3%, its irritation was too high (cell survival rate was only 61.3%), making it unsuitable for daily skincare. Comparative Example 1 maintained a similar exfoliation rate to Example 1 (44.6%), but its cell survival rate decreased significantly (77.8%). This indicates that in the present invention, exfoliation effect and gentleness need to be balanced simultaneously; even if the exfoliation effect is maintained without soothing and repairing components, the skin irritation problem cannot be solved. The peeling rate of Comparative Example 5 (high-temperature one-time addition process) (43.8%) was slightly lower than that of Example 1 (45.2%), indicating that high-temperature conditions may have caused some damage to some active ingredients, affecting the overall exfoliation effect. The above data demonstrate that the synergistic combination of a multi-layered complex acid system and various specific natural fruit extracts is the key to the significant improvement in exfoliation effect of this invention.
[0139] (2) Stimulation analysis (cell viability)
[0140] As can be seen from the cell survival rate data in Table 1, the cell survival rates of Examples 1-3 were 93.1%, 96.2%, and 90.5%, respectively, all higher than the 80% threshold for determining non-cytotoxicity. The cell survival rate of Comparative Example 1 (without the soothing and repairing component) was 77.8%, falling to the level of mild cytotoxicity; the cell survival rate of Comparative Example 2 (single acid system) was only 61.3%, approaching the level of moderate cytotoxicity; and the cell survival rate of Comparative Example 5 (high-temperature single-step addition process) was 79.2%, also lower than that of Example 1. This indicates that the soothing and repairing component of the present invention (the synergistic effect of panthenol, sodium guaiacol, camellia extract, purslane extract, and tranexamic acid) plays a crucial role in reducing the irritation of acidic components, while the low-temperature stepwise addition process is of great significance in protecting the heat-sensitive soothing and repairing component and maintaining its efficacy.
[0141] (3) Analysis of the skin barrier repair effect (TEWL changes)
[0142] As can be seen from the ΔTEWL data in Table 1, the ΔTEWL values for Examples 1-3 are all negative (-4.3 g / h·m). 2 -3.0 g / h·m 2 and -4.1 g / h·m 2 This indicates a significant improvement in skin barrier function. The ΔTEWL for Comparative Example 1 (without soothing and repairing components) was -0.4 g / h·m. 2 The improvement was minimal; in Comparative Example 2 (single acid system), the ΔTEWL was positive (+1.0 g / h·m). 2 This indicates impaired skin barrier function; the ΔTEWL of Comparative Example 5 (high-temperature single-addition process) was -1.2 g / h·m 2 The improvement effect was significantly lower than that in Example 1. The above data fully demonstrates that the triple soothing-anti-inflammatory-repairing system provided by the combination of panthenol, sodium guaiac sulfonate, camellia extract, purslane extract, and tranexamic acid not only reduces the immediate irritation of acidic components but also promotes skin barrier repair during continuous use. When this soothing and repairing system was absent (Comparative Example 1) or inactivated due to improper preparation (Comparative Example 5), both the exfoliating effect and barrier repair function were weakened to varying degrees.
[0143] (4) pH stability analysis
[0144] As can be seen from the ΔpH data in Table 1, the ΔpH values for Examples 1-3 were +0.2, +0.2, and +0.3, respectively, with a variation range not exceeding 0.3. This indicates that the pH buffer system composed of sodium citrate and sodium malate can effectively maintain the pH stability of the product during storage. Comparative Example 2 (single acid system) had a ΔpH of +0.5, showing a larger variation range; Comparative Example 5 (high-temperature one-time addition process) had a ΔpH as high as +0.8, and the product exhibited stratification and discoloration, indicating that the acid components may degrade under high-temperature conditions, resulting in significant pH drift and poor product stability.
[0145] (5) Overall effect evaluation
[0146] Based on the above test results, Example 1 maintained a high exfoliation effect (45.2%) while achieving the highest cell survival rate (93.1%) and the largest negative ΔTEWL value (-4.3 g / h·m). 2 The product exhibits excellent stability and represents the optimal formulation in terms of overall performance. These results demonstrate that, with appropriate acid and natural extract content, and through the rational combination of a multi-layered complex acid system, a specific synergistic system of natural fruit extracts, and a triple soothing-anti-inflammatory-repairing system, the serum of this invention achieves the best balance between highly effective exfoliation and gentle skincare, while simultaneously promoting skin barrier repair.
[0147] The above embodiments are merely illustrative of the concept and technical solution of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention. Any person skilled in the art can modify or alter the above embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Therefore, all equivalent modifications or alterations made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and technical concept disclosed in the present invention should still be covered by the claims of the present invention.
[0148] Furthermore, it should be understood that although this specification describes embodiments, not every embodiment contains only one independent technical solution. This narrative style is merely for clarity. Those skilled in the art should consider the specification as a whole, and the technical solutions in each embodiment can also be appropriately combined to form other embodiments that can be understood by those skilled in the art.
Claims
1. An anti-aging and repairing essence, characterized in that, It comprises an exfoliating complex acid component, a natural fruit extract component, and a soothing and repairing component; wherein, the exfoliating complex acid component is composed of mandelic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, and gluconolactone; the natural fruit extract component is composed of blueberry fruit extract, sugarcane extract, lime fruit extract, lemon fruit extract, and sugar maple extract; and the soothing and repairing component is composed of panthenol, sodium guaiacol, camellia extract, purslane extract, and tranexamic acid.
2. The anti-aging repair essence according to claim 1, characterized in that, Based on the total weight percentage of the serum, the content of mandelic acid is 0.5%~5%, glycolic acid is 0.04%~1%, malic acid is 0.04%~1%, tartaric acid is 0.04%~1%, lactic acid is 0.04%~1%, gluconolactone is 0.1%~1%, blueberry fruit extract is 0.002%~2.4%, sugarcane extract is 0.002%~2.4%, and lime is also present. The content of fruit extract is 0.002%~2.4%, lemon fruit extract is 0.002%~2.4%, sugar maple extract is 0.002%~2.4%, panthenol is 0.1%~2%, sodium guaiac sulfonate is 0.005%~0.5%, camellia extract is 0.01%~0.5%, purslane extract is 0.1%~2.5%, and tranexamic acid is 0.1%~3%.
3. The anti-aging repair essence according to claim 2, characterized in that, Based on the total weight percentage of the serum, it also contains 2.5% to 28% moisturizer, 0.2% to 4.5% thickener and stabilizer, 0.2% to 3.5% preservative, 0.05% to 1.5% pH buffer, and the remainder water.
4. The anti-aging repair essence according to claim 3, characterized in that, The moisturizer is selected from at least one of glyceryl polyether-26, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, and glycerin.
5. The anti-aging repair serum according to claim 4, characterized in that, The moisturizer is composed of glyceryl polyether-26, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, and glycerin. Specifically, based on the total weight percentage of the serum, the content of glyceryl polyether-26 is 1%–8%, dipropylene glycol is 1%–8%, erythritol is 0.5%–5%, butylene glycol is 0.1%–2.5%, sodium hyaluronate is 0.01%–0.3%, and glycerin is 0.04%–1.2%.
6. The anti-aging repair essence according to claim 3, characterized in that, The thickening stabilizer is selected from at least one of xanthan gum, safflower gum, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, polysorbate-80, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
7. The anti-aging repair essence according to claim 6, characterized in that, The thickening stabilizer is composed of xanthan gum, arugula gum, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, polysorbate-80, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Specifically, based on the total weight percentage of the essence, the content of xanthan gum is 0.1%~1%, the content of arugula gum is 0.02%~0.6%, the content of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane is 0.1%~1%, the content of polysorbate-80 is 0.005%~0.5%, and the content of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is 0.01%~1%.
8. The anti-aging repair essence according to claim 3, characterized in that, The preservative is composed of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, wherein, based on the total weight percentage of the essence, the content of p-hydroxyacetophenone is 0.1%~1%, the content of 1,2-hexanediol is 0.1%~1%, the content of sodium benzoate is 0.02%~0.6%, and the content of potassium sorbate is 0.02%~0.6%.
9. The anti-aging repair essence according to claim 3, characterized in that, The pH buffer is composed of sodium citrate and sodium malate, wherein the content of sodium citrate is 0.01%~0.5% and the content of sodium malate is 0.04%~1% by weight of the total essence.
10. A method for preparing an anti-aging repair serum according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: (1) Add a portion of water, exfoliating compound acid components, glycerol polyether-26, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, panthenol, glycerol, safflower gum, sodium malate, sodium benzoate, and potassium sorbate into the main pot, heat to 80℃~85℃, homogenize for 5~10 minutes, and stir until dissolved evenly to obtain premixed solution A; (2) Cool the premix A to 40℃~50℃, add the purslane extract and sodium hyaluronate that have been dissolved in the remaining water, stir evenly to obtain the mixture B; (3) After pre-mixing and dispersing dipropylene glycol and xanthan gum evenly, add them to mixture B and stir evenly to obtain mixture C; (4) Add erythritol, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, tranexamic acid and sodium citrate to mixture C, stir well to obtain mixture D; (5) Add the natural fruit extract components to mixture D and stir for 10-20 minutes until completely homogeneous to obtain mixture E; (6) Cool the mixture E to 35~40℃, add sodium guaiacol sulfonate, polysorbate-80, camellia extract and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil in sequence, stir evenly to obtain mixture F; (7) Filter, discharge and fill the mixture F.
Citation Information
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