Emulsifier composition for use in cosmetics

Abstract

An emulsifier composition comprising: Component A: 15 to 95 wt.% of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; and Component B: 5 to 85 wt.% of a fatty acid or a fatty alcohol; and optionally Component C: 0 to 70 wt.% of an ester or a wax, based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition. Also provided are O / W emulsions, cosmetics, and use of the emulsifier composition in the preparation of O / W emulsions.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to novel emulsifier compositions that can be used in O / W emulsion systems to emulsify and stabilize the system. Background Technology

[0002] Emulsifiers such as polyglycerol fatty acid esters are widely used in cosmetics for emulsifying and stabilizing cosmetic systems. It is well known in the art that emulsifiers can very easily induce a saponification effect (i.e., the formation of white streaks or tiny white bubbles) in formulations during application, even though they may possess very strong emulsifying power. The saponification effect gives customers a very unpleasant experience. However, it is very challenging to make an emulsifier that simultaneously possesses good emulsifying power and no saponification effect.

[0003] Furthermore, emulsifiers readily establish high viscosity to emulsify and stabilize systems. High viscosity makes preparation processes difficult and renders emulsifiers unsuitable for some low-viscosity formulations, such as sprays.

[0004] It is desirable to provide an emulsifier composition that has good emulsifying ability and no saponification effect during application. Summary of the Invention

[0005] This invention aims to solve at least some of the problems in the art. The object of this invention is achieved by the emulsifier composition of this invention, which has good emulsifying ability and no saponification effect during application. The emulsifier composition of this invention preferably yields an O / W emulsion with low viscosity. The emulsifier composition of this invention is preferably environmentally sustainable and uses 100% by weight of natural raw materials.

[0006] This invention provides an emulsifier composition comprising the following components: Component A: Polyglycerol fatty acid ester, wherein the average degree of polymerization of the polyglycerol groups is 2 to 7, preferably 2 to 4, and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid chain is 8 to 18, preferably 10 to 14; and Component B: fatty acids or fatty alcohols or blends of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, wherein the fatty acids have 12-50 carbon atoms, preferably 14-30, and the fatty alcohols have 12-50 carbon atoms, preferably 14-40; and optionally... Component C: an ester or wax, wherein the fatty acid group of the ester has 12 to 50 carbons, preferably 14 to 30, and the fatty alcohol group of the ester has 12 to 50 carbons, preferably 14 to 40, and the wax is selected from plant waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and synthetic waxes. Based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition, the amount of component A is 15-95% by weight, the amount of component B is 5-85% by weight, and the amount of component C is 0-70% by weight.

[0007] Without being bound by any theory, it is believed that in the emulsifier composition, component A (polyglycerol fatty acid ester) and component B (fatty acid or fatty alcohol or a blend of fatty acid and fatty alcohol) act as primary emulsifiers to emulsify and stabilize the emulsion system, while component C (ester or wax) acts as an optional co-emulsifier, which helps the primary emulsifier stabilize the system. The inventors have surprisingly discovered that the emulsifier composition of the present invention, comprising both component A and component B, achieves good emulsifying ability and exhibits no saponification effect during application, and preferably can be used as an emulsifier in O / W emulsions to achieve low viscosity.

[0008] Based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition, the amount of polyglycerol fatty acid ester is 15-95 wt%, for example 16-95 wt%, such as from 15 wt%, 16 wt%, 17 wt%, 18 wt%, 19 wt%, 20 wt%, 25 wt% or 30 wt% to 80 wt%, 85 wt%, 90 wt%, 91 wt%, 92 wt%, 93 wt%, 94 wt% or 95 wt%, preferably 10-90 wt%, particularly 20-90 wt%, more preferably 20-85 wt%, and even more preferably 30 to 80 wt%.

[0009] Based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition, the amount of fatty acid or fatty alcohol or blend of fatty acid and fatty alcohol (e.g., hydrolyzed wax) is 5-85 wt%, for example from 5 wt%, 6 wt%, 7 wt%, 8 wt%, 9 wt% or 10 wt% to 60 wt%, 65 wt%, 70 wt%, 75 wt%, 80 wt%, 81 wt%, 82 wt%, 83 wt%, 84 wt% or 85 wt%, preferably 5-80 wt%, particularly 10-80 wt%, more preferably 8-70 wt%, and even more preferably 10-60 wt%.

[0010] When a blend of fatty acids and fatty alcohols is used as component B, the blend may contain >0% by weight and <100% by weight, for example, 10-90% by weight, 20-80% by weight, 30-70% by weight, or 40-60% by weight of fatty acids and <100% by weight and >0% by weight, for example, 90-10% by weight, 80-20% by weight, 70-30% by weight, or 60-40% by weight of fatty alcohols, based on the total weight of the blend of fatty acids and fatty alcohols.

[0011] Based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition, the amount of ester or wax is preferably 0-60% by weight, for example 5-60% by weight, particularly 0-50% by weight, more preferably 10-50% by weight.

[0012] Component A: Polyglycerol fatty acid ester Polyglycerol fatty acid esters can be polyglycerol fatty acid monoesters, polyglycerol fatty acid diesters, and / or polyglycerol fatty acid triesters.

[0013] The average degree of polymerization of the polyglycerol group in polyglycerol fatty acid esters can be 2 to 7, such as 2 to 6, 2 to 5, preferably 2 to 4, including 2 to 3.

[0014] The average degree of polymerization N of polyglycerol can be determined by its hydroxyl value (OHV) as follows: The appropriate methods for determining the hydroxyl value are those according to DGF CV 17a(53), Ph. Eur. 2.5.3 Method A and DIN 53240.

[0015] The fatty acid chains of polyglycerol fatty acid esters have 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as 8 to 16, 10 to 16, and preferably 10 to 14.

[0016] Examples of component A, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, may include polyglycerol-2-caprylate, polyglycerol-2-decanoate, polyglycerol-2-sesquicaprylate, polyglycerol-2-laurate, polyglycerol-2-myristate, polyglycerol-2-palmitate, polyglycerol-2-stearate, polyglycerol-2-isostearate, polyglycerol-2-isopalmitate, polyglycerol-2-sesquistearate, polyglycerol-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglycerol-2-sesquioleate, polyglycerol-2-diisostearate, polyglycerol-2-distearate, polyglycerol-2-dioleate, polyglycerol-2-oleate, polyglycerol-2-cocoate, polyglycerol-3-caprylate, polyglycerol-3-decanoate, polyglycerol-3-sesquicaprylate, polyglycerol-3-laurate, polyglycerol-3-myristate, etc. Myristate, polyglycerol-3 palmitate, polyglycerol-3 stearate, polyglycerol-3 isostearate, polyglycerol-3 isopalmitate, polyglycerol-3 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-3 sesquiisostearate, polyglycerol-3 sesquioleate, polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, polyglycerol-3 distearate, polyglycerol-3 dioleate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-3 cocoate, polyglycerol-4 caprylate, polyglycerol-4 decanoate, polyglycerol-4 sesquicaprate, polyglycerol-4 laurate, polyglycerol-4 myristate, polyglycerol-4 palmitate, polyglycerol-4 stearate, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, polyglycerol-4 isopalmitate, polyglycerol-4 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-4 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-4 sesquistearate Isostearate, polyglycerol-4 sesquioleate, polyglycerol-4 diisostearate, polyglycerol-4 distearate, polyglycerol-4 dioleate, polyglycerol-4 oleate, polyglycerol-4 cocoate, polyglycerol-5 caprylate, polyglycerol-5 decanoate, polyglycerol-5 sesquicaprate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-5 myristate, polyglycerol-5 palmitate, polyglycerol-5 stearate, polyglycerol-5 isostearate, polyglycerol-5 isopalmitoate, polyglycerol-5 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-5 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-5 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-5 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-5 sesquioleate, polyglycerol-5 diisostearate, polyglycerol-5 distearate, polyglycerol-5 dioleate, polyglycerol-5 oleate, polyglycerol-5 Cocoate, polyglycerol-6 caprylate, polyglycerol-6 decanoate, polyglycerol-6 sesquicaprylate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, polyglycerol-6 myristate, polyglycerol-6 palmitate, polyglycerol-6 stearate, polyglycerol-6 isostearate, polyglycerol-6 isopalmitate, polyglycerol-6 sesquicaprylate, polyglycerol-6 sesquicaprylate, polyglycerol-6 sesquicaprylate, polyglycerol-6 sesquioleate, polyglycerol-6 diisostearate, polyglycerol-6 distearate, polyglycerol-6 dioleate, polyglycerol-6 oleate, polyglycerol-6 cocoate, polyglycerol-7 caprylate, polyglycerol-7 decanoate, polyglycerol-7 sesquicaprylate, polyglycerol-7 laurate, polyglycerol-7 myristate, polyglycerol-7 palmitate.Polyglycerol-7 stearate, polyglycerol-7 isostearate, polyglycerol-7 isopalmitate, polyglycerol-7 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-7 sesquistearate, polyglycerol-7 sesquioleate, polyglycerol-7 diisostearate, polyglycerol-7 distearate, polyglycerol-7 dioleate, polyglycerol-7 oleate, and polyglycerol-7 cocoate.

[0017] Preferred polyglycerol fatty acid esters are polyglycerol-3-cocoate, especially polyglycerol-3-monococoate.

[0018] Polyglycerol fatty acid esters (component A) can be prepared by conventional methods, such as esterification, a known synthesis with well-known process parameters in organic chemistry, and described in standard textbooks, such as Organikum, Wiley-VCH publisher. Specific descriptions of polyglycerol ester synthesis are found, for example, in Fette, Seifen, Anstrichm. 82, 93 (1980) or Tenside, Deterg. 23, 320 (1986). Examples of methods for preparing the polyglycerol fatty acid esters of the present invention include esterification reactions between polyglycerol and fatty acids, transesterification reactions between polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, and transesterification reactions between polyglycerol and oils. Polyglycerol fatty acid esters are obtained by distillation purification, decolorization if necessary, or, depending on the case, the incorporation of two or more types of polyglycerol fatty acid esters.

[0019] Component B: Fatty acids or fatty alcohols or a blend of fatty acids and fatty alcohols The fatty acids in component B may be branched or unbranched. The fatty acids in component B may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids in component B of the emulsifier composition of the present invention have a carbon number of 12 to 50, for example, from 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 or 26 to 50, 48, 46, 44, 42, 40, 38, 36, 34, 32, 30 or 28, from 12 to 46, from 12 to 44, from 12 to 42, from 12 to 40, from 12 to 38, from 12 to 36, from 12 to 34, from 12 to 32, preferably from 14 to 30.

[0020] The fatty alcohol in component B may be branched or unbranched. The fatty alcohol in component B may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol in component B of the emulsifier composition of the present invention has a carbon number of 12-50, for example from 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 or 26 to 50, 48, 46, 44, 42, 40, 38, 36, 34, 32, 30 or 28, 12-46, 12-44, 12-42, 12-40, preferably 14-40, for example from 14, 16, 18 to 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 or 40.

[0021] Examples of fatty acids in component B include lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, 2-decyltetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, ceric acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, beeswax acid, tridecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, and pentadecanoic acid.

[0022] Examples of fatty alcohols in component B include lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, eicosanool, docosanool, tridecyl alcohol, tetradecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, heptadecanol, octadecyl alcohol, triadecyl alcohol, tridodecyl alcohol, psyllostearyl alcohol, inearnatyl alcohol, and hexadecyl alcohol.

[0023] Hydrolyzed wax can be used as component B, which is essentially a blend of fatty acids and fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, the emulsifier composition of the present invention comprises hydrolyzed wax.

[0024] As used herein, the term "hydrolyzed wax" refers to the product obtained by decomposing or hydrolyzing wax in water, which is a blend of fatty acids and fatty alcohols. The method for preparing hydrolyzed wax is as follows: the wax is saponified in water using an alkali (e.g., sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide), then the saponified product is acidified with an acid (e.g., hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid), and finally, after discarding the lower layer material through a separation process, the upper layer material is the product "hydrolyzed wax". In the hydrolyzed wax, the fatty acids have 12-50 carbon atoms, preferably 14-30, and the fatty alcohols have 12-50 carbon atoms, preferably 14-40.

[0025] Unless otherwise expressly stated, the term "wax" in this invention refers to fully hydrogenated wax, partially hydrogenated wax, and / or non-hydrogenated wax.

[0026] Hydrolyzed waxes can be selected from hydrolyzed rice bran wax, hydrolyzed beeswax, hydrolyzed sunflower seed wax, hydrolyzed carnauba wax, hydrolyzed candelilla wax, hydrolyzed rhus succedanea fruit wax, and hydrolyzed synthetic esters (synthetic esters are synthesized through the esterification reaction of fatty acids and fatty alcohols). Hydrolyzed rice bran wax is preferred.

[0027] Component C: Ester or wax For the ester or wax of component C of the emulsifier composition of the present invention, the fatty acid group of the ester or wax has 12 to 50 carbon atoms, for example 12 to 48, 12 to 46, 12 to 44, 12 to 42, 12 to 40, 12 to 38, 12 to 36, 12 to 34, 12 to 32, preferably 14 to 30. The fatty acid group of the ester or wax may be branched or unbranched. The fatty acid group of the ester or wax may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol group of the ester or wax has 12 to 50 carbon atoms, for example 12 to 48, 12 to 46, 12 to 44, 12 to 42, 12 to 40, preferably 14 to 40. The fatty alcohol group of the ester or wax may be branched or unbranched. The fatty alcohol group of the ester or wax may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0028] Examples of esters of component C may include lauryl laurate, myristyl laurate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, isocetyl myristate, isocetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, cetyl laurate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl oleate, dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl laurate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, tridecyl behenate, stearyl behenate, and behenate.

[0029] The wax in component C of the emulsifier composition of the present invention is selected from plant waxes, such as vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and synthetic waxes.

[0030] The wax can be selected from rice bran wax, beeswax, sunflower seed wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rhus succedanea fruit wax, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, and synthetic wax. Rice bran wax is the preferred wax.

[0031] Based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition, the emulsifier composition of the present invention may further contain 0-30% by weight, preferably 0.01-29% by weight, of other emulsifiers, including but not limited to those selected from the following: Polyether emulsifiers (such as polyethylene glycol-100 stearate, Steareth-20), sucrose emulsifiers (such as sucrose cocoate), Sorbitol emulsifiers (e.g., sorbitan stearate), Glucoside emulsifiers (e.g., alkyl glucosides), and Monoglyceride emulsifiers (e.g., glyceryl stearate).

[0032] In some embodiments, the emulsifier composition comprises A. A polyglycerol fatty acid ester, wherein the average degree of polymerization of the polyglycerol groups is 2 to 4, and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid chain is 8 to 18, preferably 10 to 14; and B. A fatty acid or a fatty alcohol, or a blend of said fatty acid and said fatty alcohol, wherein said fatty acid has 14 to 30 carbon atoms and said fatty alcohol has 14 to 40 carbon atoms; and optionally C. An ester or wax, wherein the fatty acid group of the ester has 14 to 30 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol group of the ester has 14 to 40 carbon atoms, and the wax is selected from plant waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and synthetic waxes. Based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition, the amount of component A is 15-95% by weight, the amount of component B is 5-85% by weight, and the amount of component C is 0-60% by weight.

[0033] The preparation method of the emulsifier composition of the present invention can be one conventional in the art. In some embodiments, the method includes the following steps: 1) Mix the components of the emulsifier composition at 80-120℃, and 2) Stir the mixture from step 1) at 80-120℃ for 1 to 5 hours.

[0034] In some embodiments, the method for preparing the emulsifier composition of the present invention includes the following steps: a) The polyglycerol fatty acid ester, hydrolyzed rice bran extract, and ester are blended together at 80-120°C according to the percentage range mentioned above; and b) Stir the mixture from step 1) for 1 to 5 hours.

[0035] The preparation method is preferably carried out under a nitrogen atmosphere. The preferred blending temperature range is 80-100°C. The preferred stirring time range is 1-3 hours.

[0036] The present invention also provides liquid cosmetic compositions, particularly O / W emulsions, comprising 0.01-10 wt%, for example 1-10 wt%, particularly 3-10 wt%, of the emulsifier composition of the present invention; 0.01-70 wt%, for example from 1 wt%, 5 wt%, 10 wt%, 15 wt%, 20 wt%, 25 wt%, 30 wt%, or 35 wt% to 40 wt%, 45 wt%, or 50 wt%, for example 5-45 wt%, 5-44 wt%, 5-43 wt%, 5-42 wt%, 5-41 wt%, particularly 7-40 wt%, of at least one oil phase component (ester oil, alkane, small amounts of silane or modified silane, sunscreen filter, and wax); and 29.99-95 wt%, for example 50-90 wt%, particularly 54-89 wt%, of at least one aqueous phase component. The oil phase component comprises at least one oil. The aqueous phase component comprises water.

[0037] Liquid oils are preferred. The oil typically contains at least one type of oil. If the oil contains two or more types of oil, the different oils should have good compatibility or be compatible with each other. Examples of oils that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include: Silicone oils, such as cyclomethicone; cyclohexylsiloxane; dimethicone, such as Dow Corning (with name 200). ® Fluid sells its products.

[0038] Synthetic esters and synthetic ethers, such as oils of the formula RaCOORb and RaORb, where Ra represents a fatty acid residue containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms and Rb represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as diethylhexyl carbonate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, and isopropyl myristate; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate. Hydrocarbon-based oils of animal and / or plant origin, plant-derived oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids preferably containing 8-30 carbon atoms, for example 4-10 carbon atoms, such as castor oil, corn oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides, etc.; and Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as isohexadecane and mineral oil.

[0039] An example of a synthetic ester could be caprylic / capric triglyceride (Tegosoft). ® CT MB), ethylhexyl palmitate (Tegosoft) ® OP MB), Cetyl ethylhexanoate (Tegosoft) ® All CO (Chemical Oxide) can be purchased from Evonik Industries AG.

[0040] The oil may also contain other compatible ingredients, including but not limited to emollients such as PPG-14 butyl ether (e.g., TEGOSOFT from Evonik Industries AG). ® PBE); hair conditioning compounds, such as palmitamide propyltrimethylammonium chloride (e.g., VARISOFT from Evonik Industries AG). ® PATC); skin-sensory modifiers, such as polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymers (and) silica (Dow Corning) ® 9701); stabilizers, such as hydrophobic fumed silica (e.g., Aerosil from Evonik Industries AG).® R 812).

[0041] The emulsion according to the invention may contain, for example, at least one additional component selected from the following: Moisturizer Emulsifier, Thickener / viscosity modifier / stabilizer UV protection filter Antioxidants Water-soluble growth promoters (or polyols), Solids and fillers Film-forming agent, Pearlescent additives Deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients, Insect repellent, Self-tanning agent preservative, Conditioner, spices, dye, pigment, Odor absorbent Cosmetic active ingredients Nursing additives Superfatting agents. Solvent.

[0042] Substances that can be used as exemplary representatives of the various groups are known to those skilled in the art and can be found, for example, in German application DE 102008001788.4. This patent application is incorporated herein by reference and thus forms part of this disclosure.

[0043] Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, explicit reference is made to relevant manuals known to those skilled in the art, such as K. Schrader, “Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [Fundamentals and Formulations of Cosmetics]”, 2nd edition, pp. 329-341, Hüthig BuchVerlag Heidelberg.

[0044] The present invention also provides a cosmetic comprising the emulsifier composition of the present invention or the O / W emulsion of the present invention.

[0045] The cosmetics of this invention include, but are not limited to, skincare products, sunscreens, and makeup. In addition to the O / W emulsions or emulsifier compositions of this invention, the cosmetics may also include packaging, such as bottles, jars, and tubes.

[0046] The present invention also provides the use of the emulsifier composition of the present invention in the preparation of O / W emulsions, said emulsifier composition having particularly good emulsifying ability and no saponification effect during application, and preferably having low viscosity.

[0047] As used herein, the term "no saponification effect during application" preferably means that, after applying the emulsion to the skin according to the saponification effect test described in the instructions, no visible white streaks are observed on the skin with the naked eye, and no white streaks are observed under a microscope (Nikon, ECLIPSE Ni-U, coverslip 18). There are fewer than 10 bubbles in a 18mm (× 200x) field of view.

[0048] The emulsifier compositions of the present invention exhibit enhanced emulsifying power and very strong oil emulsifying power (and can emulsify a wide range of oil contents). Furthermore, emulsions prepared from the emulsifier compositions of the present invention have little or no saponification effect during application. The viscosity of emulsions prepared from the emulsifier compositions of the present invention is significantly lower than that prepared from conventional emulsifiers. The emulsifier compositions of the present invention can be used to construct low-viscosity formulations with excellent emulsification stability. The emulsifier compositions of the present invention can be environmentally sustainable and can be made from 100% by weight natural raw materials.

[0049] Other advantages of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the specification.

[0050] Detailed Description of the Invention The present invention will now be described in detail through the following embodiments. The scope of the present invention should not be limited to the implementation of the embodiments.

[0051] Material The following materials are used in the embodiments.

[0052] Table 1 Commercial materials used in the examples

[0053] method Prepare the emulsion as described in the instructions using the following method: (1) Heat phase A to 80°C and phase B to 80°C; (2) Add phase A to phase B while stirring; (3) Homogenize for 3 minutes; and (4) If phase C or D needs to be added, cool the mixture obtained in step (3) to 40°C with gentle stirring, then add phase C or D and stir thoroughly.

[0054] For visualization analysis, micrographs of the emulsion samples were taken using a microscope (Nikon, ECLIPSE Ni-U) with coverslips measuring 18 mm × 18 mm; the magnification was 200 for saponification effect testing and 400 for emulsion particle size observation.

[0055] The viscosity of the prepared emulsion was measured using a Brookfield RVDV-I.

[0056] The pH value of the emulsion sample was tested at room temperature using a pH meter.

[0057] The following protocol was used for emulsion stability testing: 45℃ for 3 months: Keep the emulsion sample at 45℃ for 3 months, and then observe the sample state. If it is still homogeneous and there is no phase separation, it means that the high temperature stability has passed; otherwise, it has not passed.

[0058] 4℃ for 3 months: Keep the emulsion sample at 4℃ for 3 months, and then observe the sample state. If it is still homogeneous and there is no phase separation, it means that the intermediate temperature stability has been passed; otherwise, it has not passed.

[0059] 50℃ for 1 month: Keep the emulsion sample at 50℃ for 1 month, and then observe the sample state. If it is still homogeneous and there is no phase separation, it means that the high temperature stability has passed; otherwise, it has not passed.

[0060] -15°C freezing cycle: One freezing cycle consists of: holding the emulsion sample at -15°C for 24 hours, then heating it to 25°C and holding it for 12 hours; repeating this cycle three times; then observing the sample state. If it remains homogeneous and there is no phase separation, it means that the low-temperature stability has been passed; otherwise, it has not.

[0061] -25°C freezing cycle: One freezing cycle consists of: holding the emulsion sample at -25°C for 24 hours, then heating it to 25°C and holding it for 12 hours; repeating this cycle completely three times; then observing the sample state. If it remains homogeneous and there is no phase separation, it means that the low-temperature stability has been passed; otherwise, it has not.

[0062] The saponification effect test in the instruction manual uses the following protocol: a) Apply approximately 0.03g of the emulsion sample to a specific area (2cm) on the forearm. Apply the solution (marked with a purple dot, 5cm) to the forearm and repeat 25 times over 10 seconds, then photograph it. More white residue on the forearm indicates more severe saponification. b) Collect a sample from the forearm with a scraper, place it on a microscope slide, cover it with a coverslip, and observe the amount and size of the bubbles with a microscope (Nikon, ECLIPSE Ni-U, coverslip 18mm×18mm, ×200x). Then take a picture of it using a microscope.

[0063] More or finer bubbles indicate more severe saponification. No saponification effect during application means no visible white streaks on the skin as observed with the naked eye, and fewer than 10 bubbles are present when the residue is observed at a microscopic level using a microscope (×200x).

[0064] Examples 1-14 O / W emulsions of Examples 1 to 14 were prepared according to the formulations described in Table 3 using emulsifier compositions 1 to 14 listed in Table 2.

[0065] Table 3: Formulation of O / W Emulsions

[0066] The polyglycerol-3 cocoate, hydrolyzed rice bran wax, and rice bran wax used above are all environmentally sustainable and 100% natural by weight.

[0067] For polyglycerol-3 cocoate, the average degree of polymerization of the polyglycerol group is 3, the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid chain is 8 to 18, and it is a monoester. The polyglycerol-3 cocoate in the examples was prepared by esterification of polyglycerol-3 and coconut acid according to conventional methods.

[0068] Hydrolyzed rice bran wax is composed of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, with fatty acids having 16 to 24 carbon atoms and fatty alcohols having 18 to 32 carbon atoms.

[0069] Hydrolyzed rice bran wax is prepared according to the following method: a) Add 150g of rice bran wax and 65g of water to the reactor. b) Heat to 85°C and add 20g of 50% by weight sodium hydroxide aqueous solution to the reactor. c) Heat to 100°C and maintain at 100°C for approximately 3 hours. d) Add 35g of 30% hydrochloric acid to the reactor and stir for 0.5 hours. e) Transfer the material to a separatory funnel, discard the lower layer of the material, and drain the upper layer of material as the product.

[0070] Comparative Examples 1-7 O / W emulsions of Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were prepared using emulsifier compositions 15 to 21 listed in Table 2, according to the formulations described in Table 3.

[0071] The emulsions of Examples 1-14 (E1-E14) appeared very uniform and showed no phase separation, while the emulsions of Comparative Examples 1-7 (CE1-CE7) appeared cloudy and showed phase separation.

[0072] In the emulsions of Comparative Examples 1 and 3-6, most of the oil phase was very weakly emulsified by emulsifier compositions 15 and 17-20. Comparative Examples 2 and 7 exhibited the same phenomenon. The emulsifying ability of emulsifier compositions 15-17 shows that component A, component B, or component C alone does not have good emulsifying ability. The emulsifying ability of emulsifier compositions 19-20 shows that emulsifier compositions containing only components A and C do not have good emulsifying ability. The emulsifying ability of emulsifier compositions 18 and 21 indicates that emulsifier compositions containing components A, component B, and optionally component C do not have good emulsifying ability if the amounts are outside the scope of this invention.

[0073] In contrast, the emulsifier compositions of Examples 1-8 and 10-14 surprisingly exhibited much better emulsifying ability. The particle size of the emulsions of Examples 1-8 and 10-14 was very uniform and smaller. The particle size of the emulsion of Example 9 showed the same phenomenon.

[0074] This means that the emulsifying ability of emulsifier compositions 1-14 is much stronger than that of emulsifier compositions 15-21.

[0075] Emulsifying ability test: The O / W emulsions of Examples 15-18 were prepared and their emulsification with different amounts of oil was tested.

[0076] Examples 15-18 Using emulsifier composition 6, the O / W emulsions of Examples 15-18 were prepared according to the formulations described in Table 4.

[0077] As shown in Table 4, emulsifier composition 6 can emulsify 10%-40% by weight of emollients, and the corresponding emulsions exhibit excellent low-temperature, medium-temperature, and high-temperature emulsification stability. This indicates that the emulsifier composition of the present invention has a very strong emulsifying ability for oils and can emulsify a wide range of oil contents.

[0078] Table 4: Formulations of O / W emulsions in Examples 15-18

[0079] Viscosity and stability testing: O / W emulsions of Examples 19-20 and Comparative Examples 8-11 were prepared and their viscosity and stability were tested.

[0080] Example 19 Using emulsifier composition 6, the O / W emulsion of Example 19 was prepared according to the formulation described in Table 5.

[0081] Table 5

[0082] Comparative Examples 8-10 Using dermofeel respectively ® NC MB (polyglycerol-3 distearate; glycerol stearate citrate), ECOHANCE ® Care PS3 (polyglycerol-3 distearate), TEGO ® Care 450 MB (polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate) was used to prepare O / W emulsions of Comparative Examples 8-10 according to the formulations described in Table 5.

[0083] As shown in Table 5, by comparing the stability test results of Example 19 and Comparative Examples 8-10, it is clear that emulsifier composition 6, dermofeel ® NC MB, ECOHANCE ® Care PS3 and TEGO ® Care 450 MB exhibits excellent low-temperature, medium-temperature, and high-temperature emulsification stability. However, the viscosity of the emulsion prepared from emulsifier composition 6 is significantly lower than that of the emulsions prepared from the other three commercially available polyglycerol ester emulsifiers. This means that the emulsifier compositions of the present invention can be used to construct low-viscosity formulations with excellent emulsification stability.

[0084] Example 20 Using emulsifier composition 6, the O / W emulsion of Example 20 was prepared according to the formulation described in Table 6.

[0085] Comparative Example 11 Use TEGO ® Care PBS 6 MB (polyglycerol-6 stearate (and) polyglycerol-6 behenate) was used to prepare the O / W emulsion of Comparative Example 11 according to the formulation described in Table 6.

[0086] Table 6

[0087] As shown in Table 6, the viscosity ratio of the emulsion prepared from emulsifier composition 6 is determined by TEGO.® The emulsion prepared with Care PBS 6 MB has a much lower viscosity, despite being composed of emulsifier composition 6 and TEGO. ® Emulsions prepared with Care PBS 6 MB exhibit excellent emulsification stability at low, medium, and high temperatures.

[0088] Saponification effect test The O / W emulsions of Example 21 and Comparative Examples 12-18 were prepared and the saponification effect during application was tested.

[0089] Example 21 Using emulsifier composition 6, the O / W emulsion of Example 21 was prepared according to the formulation described in Table 7.

[0090] Comparative Examples 12-18 Seven commercial emulsifiers, Olivem, were used respectively. ® 1000 (Cetearyl oleate (and) Sorbitan oleate), MONTANOV TM L (C14-22 alcohol (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside), Emulium kappa 2 MB (candelilla wax / jojoba / rice bran polyglycerol-3 esters (and) glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate), Emulium Dermolea MB (polyglycerol-6 distearate (and) candelilla wax / jojoba / rice bran polyglycerol-3 esters), TEGO ® Care 450 MB (polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate), TEGO ® Care PBS 6 MB (polyglycerol-6 stearate (and) polyglycerol-6 behenate) and dermofeel ® O / W emulsions of NC MB (polyglycerol-3 distearate; glycerol stearate citrate) were prepared according to the formulations described in Table 7 for Comparative Examples 12-18.

[0091] Table 7

[0092] CE = Comparative Example By visually comparing the saponification effect test results of Example 21 and Comparative Examples 12-18, it is very obvious and surprising that the emulsion prepared by emulsifier composition 6 exhibits minimal foaming and no saponification effect during application, while the other emulsions prepared by the seven commercial emulsifiers all show varying degrees of saponification effect and have significantly more foaming. Furthermore, the emulsion of Example 21 has a low viscosity. This indicates that the emulsifier composition of the present invention has good emulsifying ability, no saponification effect during application, and can be used to prepare low-viscosity formulations. Among commercial emulsifiers, Olivem... ® 1000 represents the most severe saponification effect, MONTANOV TM L exhibits the second most severe saponification effect, and the other five commercial emulsifiers also show some saponification effect.

[0093] As used herein, unless otherwise specified, terms such as “including” are open-ended terms meaning “at least including”.

[0094] All references, tests, standards, documents, publications, etc., mentioned in this document are incorporated herein by reference. When stating numerical limits or ranges, endpoints are included. Furthermore, all values ​​and subranges within a numerical limit or range are specifically included as if explicitly stated.

[0095] The above description is presented to enable those skilled in the art to make and use the invention, and is provided in the context of a particular application and its requirements. Various modifications to the preferred embodiments will be apparent to those skilled in the art, and the general principles defined herein can be applied to other embodiments and applications without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Therefore, the invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown, but is accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and features disclosed herein. In this respect, some embodiments within the invention may not demonstrate every benefit of the invention as broadly considered.

Claims

1. An emulsifier composition comprising: Component A: Polyglycerol fatty acid ester, wherein the average degree of polymerization of the polyglycerol groups is 2 to 7, preferably 2 to 4, and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid chain is 8 to 18, preferably 10 to 14; and Component B: fatty acids or fatty alcohols or blends of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, wherein the fatty acids have 12-50 carbon atoms, preferably 14-30, and the fatty alcohols have 12-50 carbon atoms, preferably 14-40; and optionally... Component C: an ester or wax, wherein the fatty acid group of the ester has 12 to 50 carbons, preferably 14 to 30, and the fatty alcohol group of the ester has 12 to 50 carbons, preferably 14 to 40, and the wax is selected from plant waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and synthetic waxes. Based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition, the amount of component A is 15-95% by weight, the amount of component B is 5-85% by weight, and the amount of component C is 0-70% by weight.

2. The emulsifier composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is a polyglycerol fatty acid monoester, a polyglycerol fatty acid diester, and / or a polyglycerol fatty acid triester, preferably polyglycerol-3 cocoate, particularly polyglycerol-3 monococoate.

3. The emulsifier composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier composition comprises hydrolyzed wax, preferably selected from hydrolyzed rice bran wax, hydrolyzed beeswax, hydrolyzed sunflower seed wax, hydrolyzed carnauba wax, hydrolyzed candelilla wax, hydrolyzed lacquer fruit wax, and hydrolyzed synthetic esters.

4. The emulsifier composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is 15-90% by weight, preferably 20-85% by weight, more preferably 30-80% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition.

5. The emulsifier composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of fatty acid or fatty alcohol or a blend of said fatty acid and fatty alcohol is 5-80% by weight, preferably 8-70% by weight, more preferably 10-60% by weight, based on the total weight of said emulsifier composition.

6. The emulsifier composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of ester or wax is 0-60% by weight, preferably 10%-50% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition.

7. The emulsifier composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier composition comprises: Component A: Polyglycerol fatty acid esters, wherein the average degree of polymerization of the polyglycerol groups is 2 to 4, and the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid chains is 8 to 18; and Component B: fatty acids or fatty alcohols or blends of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, wherein the fatty acids have 14 to 30 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohols have 14 to 40 carbon atoms; and optionally... Component C: an ester or wax, wherein the fatty acid group of the ester has 14 to 30 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol group of the ester has 14 to 40 carbon atoms, and the wax is selected from plant waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and synthetic waxes; Based on the total weight of the emulsifier composition, the amount of component A is 15-95% by weight, the amount of component B is 5-85% by weight, and the amount of component C is 0-60% by weight.

8. A liquid cosmetic composition, particularly an O / W emulsion, comprising an emulsifier composition according to any one of claims 1-7, at least one oil phase component, and at least one aqueous phase component.

9. A cosmetic product comprising an emulsifier composition according to any one of claims 1-7 or an O / W emulsion according to claim 8.

10. Use of the emulsifier composition according to any one of claims 1-7 in the preparation of O / W emulsions, wherein the emulsifier composition has particularly good emulsifying ability and no saponification effect during application, and preferably has low viscosity.

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