Colored wool / polyester cotton spun super high count yarn and its preparation method
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202611083907.8
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2026-07-21
- Publication Date
- 2026-10-09
AI Technical Summary
[0006]针对上述技术问题,本发明提出了一种有色羊毛/涤纶棉纺超高支纱及其制备方法,以解决现有技术中100-170公支(Nm)超高支羊毛/涤纶混纺纱线加工过程中存在的生产效率低下、纱线质量差等技术难题
1、本发明通过对羊毛进行针对性预处理,精准调控羊毛纤维的比电阻与回潮率,大幅提升其在棉纺设备上的可纺性,使羊毛纤维性能与有色涤纶纤维高度匹配,为后续纺纱工序的顺利开展筑牢工艺基础。
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Figure CN122879872A_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile technology, and particularly relates to a colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn and its preparation method. Background Technology
[0002] People's pursuit of a better life has never ceased. With the continuous accumulation of social material wealth, the public's clothing consumption concept has gradually upgraded from basic warmth needs to comfort and fashion. The market demand for high-quality, lightweight, and functional textiles is also rising. Wool, as a natural insoluble protein fiber, has densely arranged scales on its surface, which can effectively absorb and lock in odor molecules produced by skin sweat. These odor molecules can be quickly released and expelled during the washing process, keeping the fabric fresh for a long time. At the same time, wool has a natural crimp structure, a soft and warm luster, and excellent warmth and moisture absorption properties as well as natural flame retardancy, making it a core raw material for making high-end textiles.
[0003] Currently, the production of textiles and garments using wool fibers generally adopts the traditional wool spinning process, which mainly produces coarse-count yarns. Even for worsted yarns, the count is mostly concentrated in the range of 36-80, making it difficult to achieve large-scale production of higher-count yarns. On the other hand, attempting to produce high-count wool yarns using the cotton spinning process presents technical challenges such as low production efficiency and poor yarn quality due to the relatively low strength of wool fibers, thus hindering the development of high-count wool yarns.
[0004] Polyester staple fiber is a widely used raw material in the textile industry. It is often blended with other fibers to make yarn, which can fully integrate the performance advantages of different fibers, give full play to their respective fiber characteristics, and endow the fabric with customized functional attributes. Blending polyester with wool can not only effectively improve the cost-effectiveness of yarn and fabric, but also overcome the industry pain points of traditional processes, such as the difficulty in producing high-count wool blended yarn and the difficulty in increasing the wool blend ratio. This further expands the application scenarios and market space of wool blended yarn in the field of high-end thin fabrics.
[0005] In terms of dyeing processes, wool and polyester have significantly different dyeing characteristics: wool is mainly dyed with acid dyes, and the dyeing temperature is usually controlled between 70-95℃; polyester, on the other hand, requires the use of disperse dyes, and the dyeing temperature needs to reach 130℃. This means that the dyeing of traditional wool / polyester blended yarns or fabrics must be completed in two stages, which is not only cumbersome and energy-intensive, but also causes significant environmental pollution. At the same time, the high-temperature and long-term dyeing process can easily damage the fiber structure of the blended yarns and fabrics, affecting the quality of the finished product. Summary of the Invention
[0006] To address the aforementioned technical problems, this invention proposes a colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn and its preparation method, in order to solve the technical difficulties such as low production efficiency and poor yarn quality in the processing of 100-170 metric count (Nm) ultra-high count wool / polyester blended yarn in the prior art.
[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution: A method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton ultra-high count yarn includes the following steps: S1. A mixed auxiliary agent is obtained by mixing wool oil and antistatic agent. The mixed auxiliary agent is diluted with water and then added to wool for pretreatment to obtain pretreated wool. The mass ratio of wool oil to antistatic agent is 6:3, the amount of mixed auxiliary agent added to wool before dilution is 0.3-1.0% owf, and the mass ratio of mixed auxiliary agent to water is 1:(6-10). S2. The colored polyester fibers and the pretreated wool are respectively fed into the opening and cleaning machine for grabbing, opening, and removing impurities, and then output in the form of rolls or cotton streams. S3. The colored polyester fibers and wool that have undergone opening and cleaning are respectively fed into a carding machine for carding to obtain colored polyester fiber sliver and wool sliver. S4. The colored polyester fiber sliver and wool sliver are fed into a drawing frame and drawn through three drawing processes to obtain a colored polyester fiber / wool mixed sliver. S5. The colored polyester fiber / wool blend sliver is roving through a roving process to obtain roving; S6. The roving and ultra-fine denier filament are fed into a spinning machine and, through the spinning process, fine yarn is obtained. S7. The fine yarn is steamed, shaped, and wound to obtain colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn.
[0008] This invention uses colored polyester blended with white or pre-dyed wool. For light-colored yarns, dyeing is unnecessary throughout the entire process, while for dark-colored yarns, only a portion of the wool needs dyeing. This significantly reduces the cost of the dyeing process and effectively achieves energy conservation and emission reduction, minimizing environmental pollution during production. However, due to the addition of various pigments and dyes to the fiber, the strength of solution-dyed colored polyester is somewhat lower than that of conventional undyed white polyester. When blended with wool, which has inherently lower strength, to produce high-count yarns, insufficient yarn strength can easily occur, affecting subsequent weaving processes. To address this, this invention uses ultra-fine denier filaments for core-spun processing. Using the filaments as the yarn core layer does not affect the overall color and performance of the yarn while significantly improving yarn strength, ensuring that the yarn strength fully meets the requirements of the weaving process.
[0009] Further, in step S3, the colored polyester fiber has a linear density of 0.78-1.33 dtex, a fiber length of 38-51 mm, a strength of 4.80-5.50 cN / dtex, an elongation of 20-26%, a crimp of 9-13%, a crimp count of 8-12 / 25 mm, and a resistivity ≤9.9×10⁻⁶. 7 Ω·m, the coefficient of friction between fibers is 0.16-0.25; The wool has a fineness of 13.5-18.5 μm and a length of 38-51 mm; Further, in step S3, the parameters of the carding machine are set as follows: cylinder tooth density is 860-1008 teeth / square inch, cover tooth density is 420-520 teeth / square inch, working angle is 76-78°, doffer tooth density is 398-512 teeth / square inch, cylinder-cover spacing is 7-10 mils, cylinder-doffer spacing is 5 mils, cylinder speed is controlled at 330-360 rpm, and doffer speed is 14-25 rpm.
[0010] Further, in step S4, the parameters of the three-row drawing are set as follows: the draft ratio of the first drawing zone is 1.7-2.0 times, and the total draft ratio is 5-7.5 times; the draft ratio of the second drawing zone is 1.25-1.45 times, and the total draft ratio is 6-8 times; the draft ratio of the third drawing zone is 1.1-1.3 times, and the total draft ratio is 6-9 times.
[0011] Further, in step S5, the parameters of the roving process are: twist coefficient of 50-120; basis weight of 2.0-4.5 g / 10 m; spindle speed of 650-850 rpm; front zone spacing of 28 mm; and rear zone spacing of 40 mm.
[0012] Furthermore, in step S6, the parameters of the spinning process are: spindle speed of 8000-12000rpm, yarn count ≥100Nm (metric count), twist coefficient of 300-380, and ring diameter of 38mm.
[0013] Furthermore, in step S7, the specific operation steps for the steaming and shaping of the yarn are as follows: a vacuum shaping steamer is used for shaping, and the yarn is kept at 80°C for 40 minutes. The specific operation steps of the winding are as follows: the LOEPFE photoelectric online yarn clearing system is used to remove defects and impurities on the yarn. The yarn clearing parameters are set as follows: N=3.8, DS=2.3, LS=1.5cm, DL=1.25, LL=40cm, -D=14%, -L=30cm; the winding speed is 400-800m / min.
[0014] Furthermore, in steps S2-S5, the humidity is controlled at 65-75% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃; in step S6, the humidity is controlled at 60-65% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃.
[0015] The present invention also provides a colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn prepared by the above preparation method.
[0016] The present invention also provides an application of the above-mentioned colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn in the preparation of high-grade thin fabrics.
[0017] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages and technical effects: 1. This invention improves the spinnability of wool fibers on cotton spinning equipment by performing targeted pretreatment on wool fibers and precisely controlling the resistivity and moisture regain of wool fibers. This makes the performance of wool fibers highly matched with that of colored polyester fibers, laying a solid technological foundation for the smooth progress of subsequent spinning processes.
[0018] 2. This invention uses a strip mixing method to achieve precise control of fiber ratio. In the drawing process, wool strips and colored polyester strips are mixed in proportion, which can achieve gradient uniform mixing of fibers from block to bundle to fiber level, ensuring the mixing uniformity of blended fibers.
[0019] 3. This invention employs compact spinning or compact Sirospinning technology, which essentially eliminates the spinning triangle zone from a process perspective. This not only significantly reduces yarn hairiness but also enhances the compactness of the yarn structure, increasing the yarn strength by approximately 10% compared to ordinary yarn. The invention also modifies the spinning machine by adding a filament core-spun device, which adds an ultra-fine denier polyester filament during spinning to further improve the yarn strength, effectively compensating for the inherent defect of low strength in wool fibers.
[0020] 4. This invention uses a vacuum setting steamer to set the yarn, which can effectively eliminate internal stress in the yarn and stabilize the overall structure of the yarn. This not only ensures the smooth progress of subsequent weaving processes, but also endows the finished fabric with excellent dimensional stability, wrinkle resistance and abrasion resistance. Attached Figure Description
[0021] The accompanying drawings, which form part of this invention, are used to provide a further understanding of the invention. The illustrative embodiments of the invention and their descriptions are used to explain the invention and do not constitute an undue limitation of the invention. In the drawings: Figure 1 The process flow diagram for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton ultra-high count yarn of the present invention is shown below. Figure 2 A photograph of the fabric made from the colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn prepared using the process of Example 1. Figure 3A photograph of the fabric made from the colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn prepared using the process of Example 2. Figure 4 This is a photograph of a fabric made from ultra-high count colored wool / polyester-cotton yarn prepared using the process described in Example 3. Detailed Implementation
[0022] Various exemplary embodiments of the present invention will now be described in detail. This detailed description should not be considered as a limitation of the present invention, but rather as a more detailed description of certain aspects, features, and embodiments of the present invention.
[0023] It should be understood that the terminology used in this invention is merely for describing particular embodiments and is not intended to limit the invention. Furthermore, with respect to numerical ranges in this invention, it should be understood that each intermediate value between the upper and lower limits of the range is also specifically disclosed. Every smaller range between any stated value or intermediate value within a stated range, and any other stated value or intermediate value within said range, is also included in this invention. The upper and lower limits of these smaller ranges may be independently included or excluded from the range.
[0024] Unless otherwise stated, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. While only preferred methods and materials have been described herein, any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the implementation or testing of this invention. All references to this specification are incorporated by way of citation to disclose and describe methods and / or materials associated with those references. In the event of any conflict with any incorporated reference, the content of this specification shall prevail.
[0025] Various modifications and variations can be made to the specific embodiments described in this specification without departing from the scope or spirit of the invention, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Other embodiments derived from this specification will also be apparent to those skilled in the art. This specification and embodiments are merely exemplary.
[0026] The terms “include,” “including,” “have,” “contain,” etc., used in this article are all open-ended terms, meaning that they include but are not limited to.
[0027] This invention provides a method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton ultra-high count yarn, comprising the following steps: S1. Wool Pretreatment: Mix wool oil and antistatic agent (modified nonionic polyether type antistatic agent, purchased from the market) at a mass ratio of 6:3 to obtain a mixed auxiliary agent; dilute the mixed auxiliary agent with water at a mass ratio of 1:(6-10) (e.g., 1:6, 1:9, or 1:10), and add the diluted mixed auxiliary agent to the wool for pretreatment. The amount of mixed auxiliary agent added to the wool before dilution is 0.3-1.0% owf (e.g., 0.9% owf). Spray the wool oil and antistatic agent on the wool to control the moisture regain and reduce the resistivity, so as to eliminate static entanglement in the subsequent spinning process; the pretreatment time is 24-48 hours (e.g., 24 hours), and control the moisture regain of the wool to 16-20% (e.g., 18%), so that the resistivity of the wool is reduced to 1×10⁻⁶. 7 -1.6×10 8 Ω (e.g., 1.6 × 10) 8 This pretreatment imparts appropriate smoothness to wool fibers, reduces their dynamic and static friction coefficients, improves cohesion, reduces fly and breakage, provides good antistatic properties, eliminates entanglement with rollers and sheets, and ensures normal production. The wool includes white or dyed wool with a fiber fineness of 13.5-16.5 μm (e.g., 15.5 μm, 16 μm, or 16.5 μm) and a length of 38-51 mm. S2, Opening and Cleaning: Colored polyester fibers and pre-treated wool are fed into the opening and cleaning machine for grabbing, opening, and removing impurities (defects). They are then output in the form of rolls or cotton streams and conveyed to the subsequent carding machine for combing. The linear density of colored polyester fiber is 0.78-1.33 dtex (e.g., 0.89 dtex, 1.11 dtex, or 1.33 dtex), the fiber length is 38-51 mm (e.g., 51 mm), the strength is 4.80-5.50 cN / dtex (e.g., 4.96 cN / dtex or 5.06 cN / dtex), the elongation is 20-26% (e.g., 22.35% or 24.21%), the crimp is 9-13% (e.g., 11.2%, 11.8%, or 13%), the crimp count is 8-12 crimps / 25 mm (e.g., 10.8 crimps / 25 mm, 10.9 crimps / 25 mm, or 12.1 crimps / 25 mm), and the resistivity is ≤9.9 × 10⁻⁶. 7 Ω·m (e.g., 3.6 × 10⁻⁶) 7 Ω·m, 3.8×10 7 Ω·m or 6.5×10 7(Ω·m) Some colored polyesters have a large amount of colored inorganic ultrafine particles added to produce a solution coloring effect (such as black). The surface of this fiber is not smooth and clean. The friction between fibers and between fibers and metals is different from that of conventional polyester. Special antistatic agents such as SES188 are added to the oiling agent on the fiber surface. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the coefficient of friction between polyester fibers to 0.16-0.25 (such as 0.21, 0.22 or 0.23). S3. Carding: The opened and cleaned colored polyester fibers and wool are fed into a carding machine for carding. The carding machine parameters are set as follows: cylinder tooth density is 860-1008 teeth / square inch (e.g., 896 teeth / square inch), flats tooth density is 420-520 teeth / square inch (e.g., 520 teeth / square inch), working angle is 76-78° (e.g., 78°), doffer tooth density is 398-512 teeth / square inch (e.g., 496 teeth / square inch), cylinder-flats spacing is 7-10 filaments (e.g., 8 or 10 filaments), cylinder-doffer spacing is 5 filaments, cylinder speed is controlled at 330-360 rpm (e.g., 350 rpm), doffer speed is 14-25 rpm (e.g., 15 rpm, 18 rpm, or 20 rpm), and licker-in speed is 657-712 rpm (e.g., 710 rpm), resulting in strip-shaped colored polyester fiber slivers and strip-shaped wool slivers. S4. Drawing: The colored polyester fiber sliver and the wool sliver are mixed in a specified mass ratio and fed into a drawing frame equipped with a self-leveling device for three drawing passes. The parameters of the drawing frame during the drawing process are set as follows: the draft ratio of the first drawing zone is 1.7-2.0 times, and the total draft ratio is 5-7.5 times; the draft ratio of the second drawing zone is 1.25-1.45 times, and the total draft ratio is 6-8 times; the draft ratio of the third drawing zone is 1.1-1.3 times, and the total draft ratio is 6-9 times, to obtain a colored polyester fiber / wool blend sliver. S5. Roving: The colored polyester / wool blend sliver is roving; the parameters in the roving process are: twist coefficient of 50-120 (e.g., 81 or 89); basis weight of 2.0-4.5 g / 10 m (e.g., 2.1 g / 10 m or 3.6 g / 10 m); spindle speed of 650-850 rpm (e.g., 650 rpm or 750 rpm); front septum spacing of 28 mm; and back septum spacing of 40 mm. S6. Spinning: The sample treated with roving is spun using either compact spinning or compact Siro spinning technology. The parameters during spinning are: spindle speed of 8000-10000 rpm (e.g., 9000 rpm) to reduce fiber damage caused by friction; yarn count ≥100 Nm (metric count); twist coefficient of 300-380 (e.g., 350); and ring diameter of 38 mm. Simultaneously, the spinning machine is modified by adding a filament core-spun device, incorporating an 11 dtex / 12f ultra-fine denier polyester filament during spinning to further improve yarn strength. A four-roller negative pressure compact Siro spinning device with a 100-mesh grid effectively concentrates and shrinks the fibers laterally, virtually eliminating the twisting triangle area. This significantly reduces yarn hairiness, resulting in a dense and smooth yarn structure and an increase in strength of approximately 10%. S7. Steaming and Shaping: The sample that has been treated with fine yarn is steamed and shaped. The specific steps of steaming and shaping are as follows: a vacuum shaping steamer is used for shaping treatment, and the temperature is kept at 80℃ for 40 minutes. After the treatment, the internal stress of the yarn can be effectively eliminated and the yarn structure can be stabilized, thereby avoiding yarn breakage caused by yarn twisting in the subsequent weaving production. S8. Winding: The LOEPFE photoelectric online yarn clearing system removes defects and impurities from the yarn. The clearing parameters are set as follows: N=3.8, DS=2.3, LS=1.5cm, DL=1.25, LL=40cm, -D=14%, -L=30cm. The winding speed is 400-800m / min (e.g., 600m / min). Imported Meisidan splicers are used to splice the yarn, and the splice strength reaches 80-90% of the original yarn strength, thus obtaining colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn.
[0028] In the following preferred embodiments of the present invention, in steps S2-S5, the humidity is controlled at 65-75% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32°C; in step S6, the humidity is controlled at 60-65% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32°C. Slightly higher humidity and temperature control helps reduce static electricity, ensuring normal production and improving quality.
[0029] A colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn can be prepared using the above preparation method. Its wool content is >30%, polyester content is <70%, coefficient of variation (CV) for yarn evenness is ≤25.0%, +200% kilometer knots are ≤400, projection method 2mm hairiness index is ≤22 hairs / m, breaking strength is ≥10.0 cN / tex, breaking elongation is ≥10%, yarn twist unevenness is ≤5.0%, and 10 defects per 100,000 meters of yarn are ≤10. This colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn has excellent dimensional stability, wrinkle resistance, and abrasion resistance. The wool and polyester fibers are evenly mixed, and the yarn structure is compact.
[0030] The aforementioned colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn can be used in the preparation of high-grade thin fabrics.
[0031] Unless otherwise specified, "room temperature" in this invention refers to 25±2℃.
[0032] All raw materials used in this invention were purchased from the market.
[0033] The technical solution of the present invention will be further illustrated by the following embodiments.
[0034] Example 1 A method for preparing a purplish-red wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn (140Nm) (process flow diagram is shown) Figure 1 ), including the following steps: S1. Wool pretreatment: Mix wool oil and modified nonionic polyether antistatic agent at a mass ratio of 6:3 to obtain a mixed auxiliary agent; dilute the mixed auxiliary agent with water (softened water) at a mass ratio of 1:9 to obtain a diluted mixed auxiliary agent. 110-count (S) cut wool (fiber fineness 16.5μm, length 51mm) was selected. A diluted mixed auxiliary agent was sprayed into the wool for pretreatment. The amount of the mixed auxiliary agent added to the wool before dilution was 0.9% owf. The pretreatment time was 24 hours, and the wool moisture regain was controlled at 18%, reducing the wool resistivity from 2.3 × 10⁻⁶. 11 Ω decreased to 1.6 × 10 8 Ω, which is comparable to the resistivity of black polyester staple fiber, meaning it can be spun smoothly; S2. Opening and cleaning: Weigh mixed-color polyester fibers (mixed polyester fibers consisting of red and black polyester staple fibers mixed in a 1:1 mass ratio) and pre-treated wool at a mass ratio of 52.5:47.5. Both wool and mixed-color polyester fibers are produced separately using a cotton spinning and carding combined process. They are connected via pipeline to the FA002 automatic cotton grabber → ZFA036 mixed cotton opener → FA106 porcupine cotton opener → FA178 cotton feeder → airflow conveyed to the A186 carding machine in the later stage. The wool and mixed-color polyester fibers are beaten, opened, and impurities (defects) removed respectively, and then output in the form of rolls or cotton streams, which are then conveyed to the carding machine in the later stage for carding. The specifications of the black polyester staple fiber are as follows: linear density of 1.33 dtex, fiber length of 51 mm, strength of 5.06 cN / dtex, elongation of 22.35%, crimp of 11.2%, crimp count of 10.8 / 25 mm, and resistivity of 6.5 × 10⁻⁶. 7 Ω·m, the coefficient of friction between polyester fibers is 0.23; The specifications of the red polyester staple fiber are as follows: linear density of 1.11 dtex, fiber length of 51 mm, strength of 4.96 cN / dtex, elongation of 24.21%, crimp of 11.8%, crimp count of 10.9 / 25 mm, and resistivity of 3.8 × 10⁻⁶. 7 Ω·m, the coefficient of friction between polyester fibers is 0.21; S3. Carding: Using an A186 cotton carding machine, mixed-color polyester fibers and wool are fed into the carding machine for carding, and the bundled blocks are carded into single fibers. The carding machine is equipped with AC2030*1550 cylinder carding cloth and AD4030*1890 doffer carding cloth. The parameters of the carding machine during wool carding are set as follows: cylinder tooth density of 860 teeth / square inch, flats tooth density of 420 teeth / square inch, working angle of 78°, doffer tooth density of 398 teeth / square inch, cylinder-flats spacing of 10 filaments, cylinder-doffer spacing of 5 filaments, cylinder speed of 335 rpm, doffer speed of 20 rpm, and licker-in speed of 657 rpm to obtain wool sliver; When carding mixed-color polyester fibers, the carding machine parameters are set as follows: cylinder tooth density is 860 teeth / square inch, cover tooth density is 450 teeth / square inch, working angle is 78°, doffer tooth density is 512 teeth / square inch, cylinder-cover spacing is 8 filaments, cylinder-doffer spacing is 5 filaments, cylinder speed is controlled at 353 rpm, doffer speed is 18 rpm, and licker-in speed is 712 rpm, resulting in a sliver of colored polyester fiber. The basis weight of wool sliver is 15.0 g / 5 m, and the basis weight of colored polyester fiber sliver is 16.6 g / 5 m. S4. Drawing: Using a Tianmen D81 electronic drawing frame, based on the quantity of wool and polyester slivers, the first drawing uses 3 wool slivers + 3 polyester slivers, with the wool and polyester slivers arranged alternately on a raised frame after the drawing frame to ensure uniform mixing; the second drawing uses a Tianmen D81S drawing frame; the third drawing uses a Tianmen D81S drawing frame with imported Uster self-adjusting leveling function. The process configuration is: low total draft in the first drawing and high draft in the later drawing; high total draft and low draft in the second and third drawing. The specific parameters of the drawing frame are set as follows: 1.785 times draft ratio and 6.5 times total draft ratio after combining 6 slivers in the first drawing; 1.3 times draft ratio and 6.5 times total draft ratio after combining 6 slivers in the second drawing; and 1.15 times draft ratio and 8.5 times total draft ratio after combining 8 slivers in the third drawing, yielding colored polyester / wool slivers. S5. Roving: The colored polyester fiber / wool sliver is fed into the roving process. The parameters of the roving process are: twist coefficient is 81; basis weight is 3.6 g / 10 m; spindle speed is 750 rpm; front zone spacing is 28 mm; and back zone spacing is 40 mm. S6. Spinning: The FA506 spinning machine is used, with a four-roller negative pressure compact Siro device and a 100-mesh mesh. The roving is fed into the spinning machine. The parameters for the spinning process are: spindle speed of 9000 rpm, twist coefficient of 350, ring diameter of 38 mm, and yarn weight of 7.1 g / km. At the same time, a filament core-spun device is added to the spinning machine to add an 11 dtex / 12f ultra-fine denier polyester filament during spinning to further improve the yarn strength. S7. Steaming and Shaping: The fine yarn is steamed and shaped. The specific steps for steaming and shaping are as follows: a vacuum shaping steamer is used for shaping, and the yarn is kept at 80℃ for 40 minutes. S8, Winding: Install the LOEPFE photoelectric online yarn clearing system to monitor yarn quality in real time and remove defects in a timely manner. The yarn clearing parameters are set as follows: N=3.8, DS=2.3, LS=1.5cm, DL=1.25, LL=40cm, -D=14%, -L=30cm; the winding speed is 600m / min, which yields a purplish-red wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn.
[0035] In steps S2-S5, the humidity is controlled at 65-75% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃; in step S6, the humidity is controlled at 60-65% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃.
[0036] Performance testing: The prepared colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn has a coefficient of variation (CV) of 21.02%, 367 knots per kilometer (+200%), a hairiness index of 7.8 yarns / m (projection method) at 2mm, a breaking strength of 17.5 cN / tex, a single yarn strength of 124.6 cN, a breaking elongation of 11.8%, a yarn twist unevenness of less than 1.5%, 5 defects per 100,000 meters of yarn, and a single strength coefficient of variation of 13.7%.
[0037] A photograph of the fabric prepared using the purple-red wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn from Example 1 is shown below. Figure 2 .
[0038] This embodiment produces a purplish-red W / T 40 / 60 140Nm yarn. There is no standard for measuring 140-count wool / polyester blended colored yarn in the industry. However, the yarn has been provided to downstream manufacturers to weave wool blended fabrics, which has reached the level of practical application and represents a top-level breakthrough in the industry.
[0039] Example 2 A method for preparing a red wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn (145Nm) (process flow diagram is shown) Figure 1 ), including the following steps: S1. (Dyeing) Red wool pretreatment: Mix wool oil and modified nonionic polyether antistatic agent at a mass ratio of 6:3 to obtain a mixed auxiliary agent; dilute the mixed auxiliary agent with water (softened water) at a mass ratio of 1:10 to obtain a diluted mixed auxiliary agent; 110-count (S) red cut wool (fiber fineness 16μm, length 51mm) was selected. A diluted mixed auxiliary agent was sprayed into the wool for pretreatment. The amount of the mixed auxiliary agent added to the wool before dilution was 0.9% owf. The pretreatment time was 24 hours, and the wool moisture regain was controlled at 17%, reducing the wool resistivity from 2.3 × 10⁻⁶. 11 Ω decreased to 1.6 × 10 8 Ω, which is comparable to the resistivity of red polyester staple fiber, meaning it can be spun smoothly; S2. Opening and cleaning: Red polyester staple fiber and pre-treated wool are weighed at a mass ratio of 52.3:47.7. Both wool and red polyester staple fiber are produced separately using a cotton spinning and carding combined type. They are connected by a pipeline to the FA002 automatic cotton grabber → ZFA036 mixed cotton opener → FA106 porcupine cotton opener → FA178 cotton feeder box → airflow conveyed to the A186 carding machine in the later stage. The wool and red polyester fibers are beaten, opened and impurities (defects) removed respectively, and output in the form of rolls or cotton streams, and conveyed to the carding machine in the later stage for carding. The specifications of the red polyester staple fiber are as follows: linear density of 1.11 dtex, fiber length of 51 mm, strength of 4.96 cN / dtex, elongation of 24.21%, crimp of 11.8%, crimp count of 10.9 / 25 mm, and resistivity of 3.8 × 10⁻⁶. 7 Ω·m, the coefficient of friction between polyester fibers is 0.21; S3. Carding: Using an A186 cotton carding machine, red polyester staple fiber and wool are fed into the carding machine for carding, and the bundled block is carded into a single fiber state. The carding machine is equipped with AC2030*1550 cylinder carding cloth and AD4030*1890 doffer carding cloth. The parameters of the carding machine during wool carding are set as follows: cylinder tooth density of 860 teeth / square inch, flats tooth density of 420 teeth / square inch, working angle of 78°, doffer tooth density of 398 teeth / square inch, cylinder-flats spacing of 10 filaments, cylinder-doffer spacing of 5 filaments, cylinder speed of 335 rpm, doffer speed of 20 rpm, and licker-in speed of 657 rpm to obtain wool sliver; When carding red polyester staple fiber, the carding machine parameters are set as follows: cylinder tooth density is 860 teeth / square inch, cover tooth density is 520 teeth / square inch, working angle is 78°, doffer tooth density is 398 teeth / square inch, cylinder-cover spacing is 8 filaments, cylinder-doffer spacing is 5 filaments, cylinder speed is controlled at 357 rpm, doffer speed is 15 rpm, and licker-in speed is 712 rpm, to obtain colored polyester fiber sliver; The basis weight of wool sliver is 15.0 g / 5 m, and the basis weight of polyester sliver is 16.6 g / 5 m. S4. Drawing: Using a Tianmen D81 electronic drawing frame, based on the quantitative ratio of wool and polyester slivers, the first drawing is configured with 3 wool slivers + 3 polyester slivers. The wool and polyester slivers are arranged alternately on a high rack behind the drawing frame to ensure uniform mixing. The second drawing uses a Tianmen D81S drawing frame. The third drawing uses a Tianmen D81S drawing frame with imported Uster self-adjusting leveling function, employing a low total draft in the first drawing and a high draft in the subsequent drawing. The second and third drawing both adopt a process configuration of high total draft and low draft in the subsequent drawing. The specific parameters of the drawing frame are set as follows: the draft ratio of the first 6 slivers after drawing is 1.785 times, and the total draft ratio is 5.5 times; the draft ratio of the second 6 slivers after drawing is 1.35 times, and the total draft ratio is 6.5 times; the draft ratio of the third 8 slivers after drawing is 1.15 times, and the total draft ratio is 8.5 times, to obtain a colored polyester fiber / wool blend sample. S5. Roving: The colored polyester fiber / wool sample is roving. The parameters in the roving process are: twist coefficient is 81; basis weight is 3.6 g / 10 m; spindle speed is 750 rpm; front septum distance is 28 mm; and back septum distance is 40 mm. S6. Spinning: An FA506 spinning machine with a four-roller negative pressure compact Siro device and a 120-mesh mesh is used to spin the roving sample. The parameters during the spinning process are: spindle speed of 9000 rpm, basis weight of 6.9 g / km, twist coefficient of 350, and ring diameter of 38 mm. At the same time, the spinning machine is modified to add a filament core-spun device, adding an 11 dtex / 12f ultra-fine denier polyester filament during spinning to further improve the yarn strength. S7. Steaming and Shaping: The sample that has been treated with fine yarn is steamed and shaped. The specific steps for steaming and shaping are as follows: a vacuum shaping steamer is used for shaping, and the sample is kept at 80℃ for 40 minutes. S8, Winding: Install the LOEPFE photoelectric online yarn clearing system to monitor yarn quality in real time and remove defects in a timely manner. The yarn clearing parameters are set as follows: N=3.8, DS=2.3, LS=1.5cm, DL=1.25, LL=40cm, -D=14%, -L=30cm; the winding speed is 550m / min, which yields red wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn.
[0040] In steps S2-S5, the humidity is controlled at 65-75% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃; in step S6, the humidity is controlled at 60-65% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃.
[0041] A photograph of the fabric prepared using the purple-red wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn from Example 2 is shown below. Figure 3 .
[0042] Performance testing: The prepared colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn has a coefficient of variation (CV) of 21.21% for yarn evenness, 389 knots per kilometer (+200%), a hairiness index of 8.2 yarns / m in 2mm by projection method, a breaking strength of 16 cN / tex, a single yarn strength of 110.1 cN, a breaking elongation of 10.9%, a yarn twist unevenness of less than 1.5%, 3 defects per 100,000 meters of yarn, and a single strength coefficient of variation of 10.8%.
[0043] This embodiment uses red W / T 40 / 60 145Nm. There is no standard for measuring 145-count wool / polyester blended colored yarn in the industry. However, the fact that downstream manufacturers use this yarn to weave wool blended fabrics has reached the level of practical application and represents a top-level breakthrough in the industry.
[0044] Example 3 A method for preparing a heather gray wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn (170Nm) (process flow diagram see below) Figure 1 ), including the following steps: S1. Wool pretreatment: Mix wool oil and modified nonionic polyether antistatic agent at a mass ratio of 6:3 to obtain a mixed auxiliary agent; dilute the mixed auxiliary agent with water (softened water) at a mass ratio of 1:6 to obtain a diluted mixed auxiliary agent. 110-count (S) cut wool (fiber fineness 15.5μm, length 51mm) was selected. A diluted mixed auxiliary agent was sprayed into the wool for pretreatment. The amount of the mixed auxiliary agent added to the wool before dilution was 0.9% owf. The pretreatment time was 24 hours, and the wool moisture regain was controlled at 18%, reducing the wool resistivity from 2.3 × 10⁻⁶. 11 Ω decreased to 1.6 × 10 8 Ω, which is comparable to the resistivity of black polyester staple fiber, meaning it can be spun smoothly; S2. Opening and Cleaning: Black polyester fiber and pre-treated wool are weighed in a 50:50 mass ratio. Both wool and black polyester fiber are produced separately using a cotton spinning and carding process. Black polyester fiber is processed into rolls using a cotton spinning FA002 automatic cotton grabber → ZFA036 mixing and opening cotton machine → FA106 porcupine cotton opening machine → FA046A type vibrating cotton box feeder → A076 cotton cleaning machine. After the polyester raw material is beaten, opened, and impurities (defects) are removed, the degree of mixing is further improved from blocky to bundled form for output. Wool is produced using a simple combing and carding process: FA002 automatic cotton grabber → ZFA036 mixed cotton opener → FA106 porcupine cotton opener → FA178 cotton feeder → airflow conveyed to the subsequent A186 carding machine, and output in bundle form. The specifications of the black polyester staple fiber are as follows: linear density of 0.89 dtex, fiber length of 51 mm, strength of 5.8 cN / dtex, elongation of 23%, crimp of 13.0%, crimp count of 12.1 / 25 mm, and resistivity of 3.6 × 10⁻⁶. 7 Ω·m, the coefficient of friction between polyester fibers is 0.22; S3. Carding: Using an A186 cotton carding machine, black polyester fibers and wool are fed into the carding machine separately for carding, and the bundled blocks are carded into single fibers. The carding machine is equipped with AC2030*1550 cylinder carding cloth and AD4030*1890 doffer carding cloth. When carding wool, the parameters of the carding machine are set as follows: cylinder tooth density is 860 teeth / square inch, flats tooth density is 420 teeth / square inch, working angle is 78°, doffer tooth density is 398 teeth / square inch, cylinder-flats spacing is 10 filaments, cylinder-doffer spacing is 5 filaments, cylinder speed is controlled at 345 rpm, doffer speed is 20 rpm, and licker-in speed is 657 rpm, to obtain sliver wool; When carding black polyester fibers, the carding machine parameters are set as follows: cylinder tooth density is 860 teeth / square inch, cover tooth density is 520 teeth / square inch, working angle is 78°, doffer tooth density is 398 teeth / square inch, cylinder-cover spacing is 8 filaments, cylinder-doffer spacing is 5 filaments, cylinder speed is controlled at 357 rpm, doffer speed is 18 rpm, and licker-in speed is 712 rpm, resulting in strips of colored polyester fibers and strips of wool. Wool sliver basis weight 14.0 g / 5 m, polyester sliver basis weight 14.3 g / 5 m; S4. Drawing: Using a Tianmen D81 electronic drawing frame, based on the raw sliver quantities of both wool and polyester slivers, the first drawing is configured with 3 wool slivers + 3 polyester slivers. The wool and polyester slivers are arranged alternately on a high rack behind the drawing frame to ensure uniform mixing. The second drawing uses a Tianmen D81S drawing frame. The third drawing uses a Tianmen D81S drawing frame with imported Uster self-adjusting leveling function, employing a low total draft in the first drawing and a high draft in the subsequent drawing. The second and third drawing both adopt a high total draft and a low draft in the subsequent drawing. The specific parameters of the drawing frame are set as follows: the draft ratio of the first 6-sliver drawing zone is 1.92 times, and the total draft ratio is 5.5 times; the draft ratio of the second 6-sliver drawing zone is 1.35 times, and the total draft ratio is 6.5 times; the draft ratio of the third drawing zone is 1.25 times, and the total draft ratio is 8.5 times, to obtain a colored polyester fiber / wool mixed sample. S5. Roving: The colored polyester fiber / wool blend sample is roving. The parameters in the roving process are: twist coefficient is 89; basis weight is 2.1 g / 10 m; spindle speed is 650 rpm; front septum distance is 28 mm; and back septum distance is 40 mm. S6. Spinning: An FA506 spinning machine with a four-roller negative pressure compact Siro device and a 100-mesh mesh is used to spin the roving sample. The parameters during the spinning process are: spindle speed 8500 rpm, basis weight 5.9 g / km, twist coefficient 360, and ring diameter 38 mm. At the same time, the spinning machine is modified to add a filament core-spun device, adding an 11 dtex / 12f ultra-fine denier polyester filament during spinning to further improve the yarn strength. S7. Steaming and Shaping: The sample that has been treated with fine yarn is steamed and shaped. The specific steps for steaming and shaping are as follows: a vacuum shaping steamer is used for shaping, and the sample is kept at 80℃ for 40 minutes. S8, Winding: Install the LOEPFE photoelectric online yarn clearing system to monitor yarn quality in real time and remove defects in a timely manner. The yarn clearing parameters are set as follows: N=3.8, DS=2.3, LS=1.5cm, DL=1.25, LL=40cm, -D=14%, -L=30cm; the winding speed is 500m / min, which yields heather gray wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn.
[0045] In steps S2-S5, the humidity is controlled at 65-75% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃; in step S6, the humidity is controlled at 60-65% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃.
[0046] A photograph of the fabric prepared using the heather wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn from Example 3 is shown below. Figure 4 .
[0047] Performance testing: The prepared heather gray wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn has a coefficient of variation (CV%) of 23.09%, 312 knots per +200% kilometer, a hairiness index of 7.2 yarns / m in 2mm by projection method, a breaking strength of 18 cN / tex, a single yarn strength of 106.2 cN, a breaking elongation of 12.1%, a yarn twist unevenness CV% within 2.5%, 8 defects per 100,000 meters of yarn, and a single strength coefficient of variation of 12.0%.
[0048] This embodiment uses a heather gray W / T 40 / 60 170Nm yarn. There is no standard measurement for 170-count wool / polyester blended colored yarn in the industry, but the wool blended fabric woven from this yarn has reached the level of practical application, which is a major breakthrough in the industry.
[0049] Comparative Example 1 Similar to Example 1, except that the wool is not pretreated, i.e., step S1 is not performed.
[0050] Result: The wool produced severe static electricity during the carding process, resulting in significant lint and tangling in the cylinder, making normal production impossible.
[0051] Comparative Example 2 Same as Example 1, except that 11dtex / 12f ultrafine denier polyester filament was not added in the S6 spinning process.
[0052] Results: The prepared colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn had a coefficient of variation (CV) of 25.58% for yarn evenness, 463 knots per +200% kilometer, a hairiness index of 24.4 yarns / m in the projection method at 2mm, a breaking strength of 9.9 cN / tex, a single yarn strength of 70.5 cN, a breaking elongation of 10.1%, a yarn twist unevenness of less than 3.5%, 24 defects per 100,000 meters of yarn, and a single strength coefficient of variation of 18.6%. The data are compared with those of Example 1 in Table 1.
[0053] Table 1 As can be seen from Table 1, compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 2 showed a significant decrease in yarn evenness and strength, severe yarn breakage in the fine spinning process, and numerous defects in the 100,000 meters of yarn, making subsequent weaving difficult and rendering it impractical.
[0054] Comparative Example 3 Same as Example 1, except that in the S6 spinning process, only Sirospun is used instead of compact Sirospun.
[0055] Results: The prepared colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn had a coefficient of variation (CV) of 23.47%, 401 knots per +200% kilometer, a hairiness index of 18.3 hairs / m in 2mm by projection method, a breaking strength of 13.4 cN / tex, a single yarn strength of 95.3 cN, a breaking elongation of 11.8%, a yarn twist unevenness of less than 3.8%, 17 defects per 100,000 meters of yarn, and a single strength coefficient of variation of 16.4%. The data are compared with those of Example 1 in Table 2.
[0056] Table 2 As can be seen from Table 2, compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 3 showed a significant decrease in yarn sliver and strength. The spinning process was normal, but there were many defects such as hairiness and 100,000-meter yarn defects. The subsequent weaving process had unclear openings and many yarn breaks and shutdowns, making it impractical.
[0057] The above are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited thereto. Any variations or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the scope of the technology disclosed in the present invention should be included within the scope of protection of the present invention. Therefore, the scope of protection of the present invention should be determined by the scope of the claims.
Claims
1. A method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1. Mix wool oil and antistatic agent to obtain a mixed auxiliary agent. Dilute the mixed auxiliary agent with water and then add it to wool for pretreatment to obtain pretreated wool. The mass ratio of crude oil to antistatic agent is 6:
3. The amount of the mixed auxiliary agent added to the wool before dilution is 0.3-1.0% owf, and the mass ratio of the mixed auxiliary agent to water is 1:(6-10). S2. The colored polyester fibers and the pretreated wool are respectively fed into the opening and cleaning machine for grabbing, opening, and removing impurities, and then output in the form of rolls or cotton streams. S3. The colored polyester fibers and wool that have undergone opening and cleaning are respectively fed into a carding machine for carding to obtain colored polyester fiber sliver and wool sliver. S4. The colored polyester fiber sliver and wool sliver are fed into a drawing frame and drawn through three drawing processes to obtain a colored polyester fiber / wool mixed sliver. S5. The colored polyester fiber / wool blend sliver is roving through a roving process to obtain roving; S6. The roving and ultra-fine denier filament are fed into a spinning machine and, through the spinning process, fine yarn is obtained. S7. The fine yarn is steamed, shaped, and wound to obtain colored wool / polyester cotton spun ultra-high count yarn.
2. The method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton ultra-high count yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S3, the colored polyester fiber has a linear density of 0.78-1.33 dtex, a fiber length of 38-51 mm, a strength of 4.80-5.50 cN / dtex, an elongation of 20-26%, a crimp of 9-13%, a crimp count of 8-12 / 25 mm, and a resistivity ≤9.9×10⁻⁶. 7 Ω·m, the coefficient of friction between fibers is 0.16-0.25; The wool has a fineness of 13.5-18.5 μm and a length of 38-51 mm.
3. The method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S3, the parameters of the carding machine are set as follows: cylinder tooth density is 860-1008 teeth / square inch, cover tooth density is 420-520 teeth / square inch, working angle is 76-78°, doffer tooth density is 398-512 teeth / square inch, cylinder-cover spacing is 7-10 mils, cylinder-doffer spacing is 5 mils, cylinder speed is 330-360 rpm, and doffer speed is 14-25 rpm.
4. The method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S4, the parameters of the three-row drawing are set as follows: the draft ratio of the first drawing zone is 1.7-2.0 times, and the total draft ratio is 5-8 times; the draft ratio of the second drawing zone is 1.25-1.45 times, and the total draft ratio is 6-8 times; the draft ratio of the third drawing zone is 1.1-1.3 times, and the total draft ratio is 6-9 times.
5. The method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton ultra-high count yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S5, the parameters of the roving process are: twist coefficient of 50-120; basis weight of 2.0-4.5 g / 10 m; spindle speed of 650-850 rpm; front zone spacing of 28 mm; and rear zone spacing of 40 mm.
6. The method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S6, the parameters of the spinning process are: spindle speed of 8000-12000rpm, yarn count ≥100Nm, twist coefficient of 300-380, and ring diameter of 38mm.
7. The method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S7, the specific operation steps for the steaming and shaping are as follows: a vacuum shaping steamer is used for shaping, and the temperature is kept at 80°C for 40 minutes. The specific operation steps of the winding are as follows: the LOEPFE photoelectric online yarn clearing system is used to remove defects and impurities on the yarn. The yarn clearing parameters are set as follows: N=3.8, DS=2.3, LS=1.5cm, DL=1.25, LL=40cm, -D=14%, -L=30cm; the winding speed is 400-800m / min.
8. The method for preparing colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that, In steps S2-S5, the humidity is controlled at 65-75% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃; in step S6, the humidity is controlled at 60-65% and the temperature is controlled at 25-32℃.
9. A colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn prepared by the preparation method according to any one of claims 1-8.
10. The application of the colored wool / polyester-cotton spun ultra-high count yarn as described in claim 9 in the preparation of high-grade thin fabrics.