A production process of a wool cashmere down washed pile fabric

Abstract

The application discloses a production process of a wool cashmere down washing fabric, which selects pure white goose down goose hair, wool and cashmere of 4A or above; dyes the goose down; carding; adopts a carding device to card the fiber mixture to prepare a fiber strip; spins the fiber strip into a blended yarn, the fineness is 26-56, and the twist is 340-400 twists per meter; twists the blended yarn into a strand, the twist of the blended yarn strand is 150-200 twists per meter; weaves into a knitted fabric; and washes the fabric, including pre-washing treatment, washing treatment, straightening treatment and dehydration drying. By proportioning the wool, cashmere and trace goose down fibers, and combining targeted dyeing, carding and carding processes, the technical problem that the goose down is difficult to be blended into yarn is effectively solved. The prepared blended yarn not only maintains the soft and skin-friendly properties of natural fibers, but also significantly improves the bulkiness and static air content of the yarn body due to the introduction of the goose down, so that excellent warmth retention performance is realized without increasing the fabric weight.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics, belonging to the technical field of down-washed and brushed fabric production. Background Technology

[0002] Wool, cashmere, and down fibers are all high-end natural insulating fibers, characterized by their softness, skin-friendliness, excellent warmth retention, and good breathability, making them core raw materials for high-end insulating fabrics. Traditional goose down materials, due to their strong hydrophobicity, short fibers, silky and fluffy texture, and lack of cohesion between fibers, are difficult to spin directly and can only be used as filling materials. At the same time, due to these characteristics, goose down yarn cannot be mass-produced using conventional spinning equipment, limiting its application in blended yarns.

[0003] Currently, most mainstream composite thermal fabrics on the market use single cashmere blends or down filling composite processes, which have many technical defects: First, the uniformity of multi-fiber blends is poor, and the short wool and cashmere fibers are prone to clumping and uneven distribution, resulting in uneven thickness of the fabric pile; Second, traditional cashmere washing processes often use high-temperature and strong alkaline washing, which can easily cause cashmere and down fibers to become brittle, break, and clump, greatly reducing the fabric's fluffiness and service life.

[0004] To achieve superior warmth retention, down-blend yarns need a three-dimensional, fluffy texture. Fabrics prepared using a down-washing process have a velvety surface, which, combined with the excellent warmth retention of goose down, results in good insulation. This paper explores a production process for wool, cashmere, and down-blend fabrics that can produce thin fabrics while maintaining good warmth retention. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The purpose of this invention is to provide a production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics, which produces fabrics that are both thin and warm.

[0006] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the objective of this invention is achieved as follows: The present invention relates to a production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics, comprising the following steps: (1) Raw material selection: Pure white goose down with a down content of ≥90%, a length of 10mm-20mm, and a loft of 4A or above is selected as goose down fiber; wool fiber with an average length of 38mm-45mm and an average fineness of 16-25 microns is selected as base fiber; cashmere with an average length of 30mm-34mm is selected as auxiliary fiber. (2) Dyeing of goose down; (3) Blending: Immerse the dyed goose down in the blending solution and maintain for a set time; first blend the wool and cashmere together and spray with the blending solution; add goose down during the final wool and cashmere blending to obtain a wool, cashmere and down fiber blend; the amount of goose down used is 0.1%-5%; (4) Combing: The fiber mixture is combed using combing equipment to prepare fiber strips; (5) Fine yarn: The fiber strips are spun into blended fine yarn, and the fineness of the prepared yarn is 26-56 count and the twist is 340-400 twists per meter; (6) Winding and twisting: The prepared blended yarn is wound, twisted and doubled to obtain blended yarn ply; the twist of the blended yarn ply is 150-200 twists per meter; (7) Weaving: Knitted fabric is made by weaving blended yarns; (8) Washing: including pre-washing treatment, washing treatment, straightening treatment and dehydration and drying; The pre-washing treatment refers to placing the prepared knitted fabric in a pre-washing treatment solution, treating it at 50-70℃ for 10-20 minutes, and then washing it; the pre-washing treatment solution contains a surfactant. The bleaching process involves placing the pre-treated knitted fabric in a bleaching solution, heating it to 70-90°C, and processing it at a rotation speed of 30-50 r / min for 60-120 minutes, followed by rinsing. The bleaching solution includes a raising agent and a fluffing agent. The straightening treatment involves placing the knitted fabric, which has undergone a spun yarn treatment, into a straightening treatment solution and running it at 60-80℃ for 50-70 minutes, followed by rinsing. The straightening treatment solution contains a straightening agent and has a pH value of 3-4.

[0007] Furthermore, the goose down dyeing process includes the following steps: (2.1) Pretreatment of goose down: Place the goose down in the goose down pretreatment solution and keep it at 60-80℃ for 15-25 minutes; (2.2) Dyeing: Start dyeing at room temperature, add dye and dyeing auxiliaries, adjust the pH of the dyeing solution to 4-4.5, run for 10-30 minutes, then raise the temperature to 80-85℃, keep warm for 30-60 minutes, and wash with water; (2.3) Fixing: Place the dyed goose down in the fixing solution and keep it at 40-50℃ for 10-30 minutes; then wash, dehydrate and dry.

[0008] Furthermore, the dye is a reactive dye or an acid dye.

[0009] Furthermore, the dyeing auxiliaries include glacial acetic acid, leveling agent, and penetrant.

[0010] Furthermore, the wool treatment solution includes an antistatic agent, wool oil, and water.

[0011] Furthermore, the twist direction of the blended yarn ply is opposite to that of the blended fine yarn.

[0012] Furthermore, in the combing process, the cylinder speed is 50r / min-80r / min, and the cover plate spacing is 4mm-6mm.

[0013] Furthermore, in the spinning process, the mechanical draft ratio is 1.25-1.35.

[0014] The beneficial effects of this invention are as follows: The wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabric production process involved in this invention effectively solves the technical problem of the difficulty in blending goose down into yarn by scientifically proportioning wool, cashmere, and a trace amount of goose down fibers, combined with targeted dyeing, combing, and carding processes. During the carding stage, by controlling the cylinder speed and the gap between the carding plates, the short and smooth goose down fibers are evenly embedded into the wool and cashmere matrix, forming structurally stable and evenly distributed fiber strips, providing a good foundation for subsequent spinning. The resulting blended yarn not only retains the soft and skin-friendly characteristics of natural fibers, but also significantly improves the yarn's loft and still air content due to the introduction of goose down, thus achieving excellent warmth retention without increasing the fabric's weight. The washing process further activates the surface fibers, giving the finished fabric a delicate and full nap effect, while avoiding damage to the fibers from high temperatures and strong alkalis, ensuring that the product possesses advantages such as lightness, softness, high warmth retention, and long lifespan, meeting the dual demands of high-end autumn and winter clothing for fabric function and texture. Attached Figure Description

[0015] Figure 1 These are images of knitted fabrics produced using the manufacturing process described in this invention. Detailed Implementation

[0016] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.

[0017] Example 1 Combination Figure 1 This embodiment will be described in detail below. The production process for wool, cashmere, and down-filled fabrics involved in this embodiment includes the following steps: (1) Raw material selection: Pure white goose down with a down content of ≥90%, a length of 10mm-20mm, and a fill power of 4A or higher is selected as the down fiber; wool fiber with an average length of 38mm-45mm and an average fineness of 16-25 microns is selected as the base fiber; and cashmere with an average length of 30mm-34mm is selected as the auxiliary fiber. In this embodiment, the selected down fiber has a down content of 95%, an average length of 14mm, and a fill power of 4A; the selected wool fiber has an average length of 41mm and an average fineness of 20 microns; and the selected cashmere fiber has an average length of 32mm.

[0018] (2) Dyeing of goose down: This includes the following steps: (2.1) Pretreatment of goose down: Place the goose down in a goose down pretreatment solution and keep it at 60-80℃ for 15-25 minutes. The pretreatment solution contains 2% surfactant and 2% dispersant by weight of the goose down. The weight ratio of goose down to goose down pretreatment solution is 1:10, and the solution is kept at 60℃ for 5 minutes.

[0019] A combination of nonionic and anionic surfactants showed good results in removing the sterol and triphosphate bilayer cell membrane from the surface of down feathers. The combination of nonionic and anionic surfactants exhibited a synergistic effect, significantly reducing the surface tension of the treatment solution, thus removing surface oils from the down feathers and improving the dyeing fixation rate. Specifically, the ratio of nonionic to anionic surfactant was 1:1. Sodium lignosulfonate was used as the dispersant. Specifically, an alkylolamide was selected as the nonionic surfactant, and a pro-alkyl sulfonate was selected as the anionic surfactant.

[0020] (2.2) Dyeing: Start dyeing at room temperature, add dye and dyeing auxiliaries, adjust the pH of the dyeing solution to 4-4.5, run for 10-30 minutes, then raise the temperature to 80-85℃, keep warm for 30-60 minutes, and wash with water.

[0021] Furthermore, the dye is a reactive dye or an acid dye. In this embodiment, a reactive dye (specific type of reactive dye) is selected. Reactive dye molecules contain reactive groups (such as vinyl sulfone group, triazine group), which, under suitable conditions, chemically react with the amino groups (-NH2) in down fiber proteins to form stable covalent bonds ("dye-fiber" compounds), rather than relying solely on hydrogen bonds or van der Waals forces for adsorption. The amount of dye used is 20.wf%.

[0022] Furthermore, the dyeing auxiliaries include 0.5-5 g / L glacial acetic acid, 1-2 0.wf% leveling agent, and 1.5-2.5 owf% penetrant. In this embodiment, the dosages are 3 g / L, 1.5%, and 2%, respectively.

[0023] The specific dyeing process begins at room temperature (30℃). The dye and dye auxiliaries are evenly added to form the dye solution, and the pH of the solution is adjusted to 4. The solution is first run at room temperature for 20 minutes, then heated to 80℃ at a rate of 1℃ per minute and held at that temperature for 60 minutes. Afterward, it is removed and thoroughly rinsed with clean water. This thorough rinsing involves 3-5 rinses, each lasting 5-10 minutes with overflow water.

[0024] (2.3) Fixation: The dyed goose down is placed in a fixing solution and kept at 40-50℃ for 10-30 minutes; then it is washed and dehydrated, and dried without dehydration. The fixing solution contains 0.5-1% by weight of a formaldehyde-free fixing agent. The formaldehyde-free fixing agent is a polyquaternary ammonium salt or polyamine cationic polymer. The fixing agent DUR is a polyquaternary ammonium linear compound that can be used to improve the fixing rate and washing fastness of reactive dyes and direct dyes, without color change, etc. The formaldehyde fixing agent CS is a cationic polymer composed of diethylenetriamine and epichlorohydrin, etc., containing reactive groups, and is particularly suitable for fixing reactive dyes, which can improve various fastness grades by more than 1 grade and have little effect on color, etc. In this embodiment, a polyquaternary ammonium salt is selected, specifically the fixing agent DUR, or other types of polyquaternary ammonium salt fixing agents.

[0025] In this embodiment, the formaldehyde-free fixing agent is used at a specific amount of 1% in the color-fixing process, and the temperature is maintained at 40°C for 30 minutes.

[0026] (3) Blending: Soak the dyed goose down in the blending solution for 24 hours to allow the down fibers to fully absorb it; remove it and dehydrate it without drying it to increase the weight of the down so that it can be easily mixed with wool and cashmere.

[0027] First, wool and cashmere are blended together and sprayed with a blending treatment solution. During the final wool-cashmere blending, goose down is added and mixed to obtain a wool-cashmere-down fiber blend. The amount of goose down used is 0.1%-5%; the amount of cashmere fiber used is 5-15%. In this embodiment, the amount of goose down is 5%, the amount of cashmere fiber is 10%, and the remainder is wool fiber.

[0028] Furthermore, the wool treatment solution includes an antistatic agent, wool oil, and water. Specifically, antistatic agent 160 and wool oil 908 are used, both produced by Shaoxing Shangyu Fangda Chemical Plant. Of course, antistatic agents and wool oils from other manufacturers can also be selected. In this embodiment, the mass fraction of wool oil is 40%, the mass fraction of antistatic agent is 10%, and the remainder is water.

[0029] (4) Combing: The fiber mixture is combed using combing equipment to prepare fiber slivers. In the combing process, the cylinder speed is 50 r / min-80 r / min, the cover plate spacing is 4 mm-6 mm, and the sliver weight is 2-5 g / m. Specifically, in this embodiment, the cylinder speed is 60 r / min, the cover plate spacing is 4 mm, 44 mm, 5 mm, 54 mm, and 64 mm, the sliver weight is 4 g / m, and the sliver output speed is about 2600 m / min.

[0030] (5) Yarn: The fiber sliver is spun into a blended yarn with a mechanical draft ratio of 1.25-1.35. The fineness of the prepared yarn is 26-56 count, and the twist is 340-400 twists per meter. Specifically, in this embodiment, the mechanical draft ratio is 1.25, the fineness of the blended yarn is 26 count, and the twist is 340 twists per meter.

[0031] (6) Winding and twisting: The prepared blended yarn is wound, twisted, and doubled to obtain blended yarn ply; the twist of the blended yarn ply is 150-200 twists per meter. Specifically, in this embodiment, the fineness of the prepared fine yarn is 13 count, the twist is 150 twists per meter, and the twist direction of the blended yarn ply is opposite to that of the blended fine yarn.

[0032] (7) Weaving: The blended yarn is used to weave the fabric into a knitted fabric, specifically prepared by weft plain knitting structure, and the weight of the prepared knitted fabric is 220 grams per square meter.

[0033] (7) Washing: including pre-washing treatment, washing treatment, straightening treatment and dehydration and drying.

[0034] The pre-washing treatment refers to placing the prepared knitted fabric in a pre-washing treatment solution and treating it at 50-70℃ for 10-20 minutes, followed by rinsing. The pre-washing treatment solution contains 2wt% surfactant. Specifically, in this embodiment, the treatment is carried out at 50℃ for 20 minutes, followed by rinsing with water. The surfactant used is a 1:1 mixture of sodium alkyl sulfonate and fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether.

[0035] The bleaching process involves placing the pre-treated knitted fabric in a bleaching solution at a liquor ratio of 1:5. The temperature is raised to 70-90℃, and the treatment is carried out at a rotation speed of 30-50 r / min for 60-120 minutes, followed by rinsing. The bleaching solution contains 20 wt% of a raising agent and 5 wt% of a fluffing agent; the raising agent used is a fatty acid organic amine compound.

[0036] Specifically, in this embodiment, the temperature is raised to 70°C, and the treatment is carried out for 120 minutes at a rotation speed of 30 r / min. During the rinsing process, fibers can form nap on the fabric surface, and the scales on the surface of wool and cashmere will shrink during the rinsing process. Under the set temperature and rotation speed conditions, the shrinkage is small and will not have a significant impact on the size of the fabric. This helps to fix the nap and make it less prone to shedding.

[0037] The straightening treatment involves placing the bleached knitted fabric in a straightening solution at a liquor ratio of 1:4. The solution is incubated at 60-80°C for 50-70 minutes, followed by rinsing. The straightening solution contains 30-40 wt% of a straightening agent and has a pH of 3-4. Specifically, in this embodiment, the solution is incubated at 60°C for 70 minutes, followed by rinsing, dehydration, and drying to obtain the finished product. The straightening agent used is employed to improve the crimp of wool and cashmere, specifically wool long-lasting setting agent WS-1.

[0038] The fabric prepared in this embodiment was tested. The weight increased by approximately 10%, and the longitudinal dimensional change rate was -4.5%, meaning a shrinkage of 4.5%. The transverse dimensional change rate was -6.7%. Color fastness tests were conducted on the fabric prepared in this embodiment according to GB / T3922-2013, specifically for alkali perspiration and acid perspiration, with results reaching grade 4-5. Water fastness tests were conducted according to GB / T5713-2013, with results reaching grade 4-5. Dry rubbing fastness tests were conducted according to GB / T3920-2008, with results reaching grade 4-5. Pilling resistance tests were conducted according to GB / T4802.4-2020 using the random tumbling method, with results reaching grade 3-4. Thermal resistance tests were conducted on the fabric prepared in this embodiment according to GB / T 11048, with a result of 0.268 μm. 2 ·K / W, while the thermal resistance of the same weight of wool knitted fabric is 0.207m. 2 ·K / W.

[0039] The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail above. It should be understood that those skilled in the art can make numerous modifications and variations based on the concept of the present invention without creative effort. Therefore, all technical solutions that can be obtained by those skilled in the art based on the concept of the present invention through logical analysis, reasoning, or limited experimentation on the basis of existing technology should be within the scope of protection defined by the claims.

Claims

1. A manufacturing process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: (1) Raw material selection: Pure white goose down with a down content of ≥90%, a length of 10mm-20mm, and a loft of 4A or above is selected as goose down fiber; wool fiber with an average length of 38mm-45mm and an average fineness of 16-25 microns is selected as base fiber; cashmere with an average length of 30mm-34mm is selected as auxiliary fiber. (2) Dyeing of goose down; (3) Blending: Immerse the dyed goose down in the blending solution and maintain for a set time; first blend the wool and cashmere together and spray with the blending solution; add goose down during the final wool and cashmere blending to obtain a wool, cashmere and down fiber blend; the amount of goose down used is 0.1%-5%; (4) Combing: The fiber mixture is combed using combing equipment to prepare fiber strips; (5) Fine yarn: The fiber strips are spun into blended fine yarn, and the fineness of the prepared yarn is 26-56 count and the twist is 340-400 twists per meter; (6) Winding and twisting: The prepared blended yarn is wound, twisted and doubled to obtain blended yarn ply; the twist of the blended yarn ply is 150-200 twists per meter; (7) Weaving: Knitted fabric is made by weaving blended yarns; (8) Washing: including pre-washing treatment, washing treatment, straightening treatment and dehydration and drying; The pre-washing treatment refers to placing the prepared knitted fabric in a pre-washing treatment solution, treating it at 50-70℃ for 10-20 minutes, and then washing it; the pre-washing treatment solution contains a surfactant. The bleaching process involves placing the pre-treated knitted fabric in a bleaching solution, heating it to 70-90°C, and processing it at a rotation speed of 30-50 r / min for 60-120 minutes, followed by rinsing. The bleaching solution includes a raising agent and a fluffing agent. The straightening treatment involves placing the knitted fabric, which has undergone a spun yarn treatment, into a straightening treatment solution and running it at 60-80℃ for 50-70 minutes, followed by rinsing. The straightening treatment solution contains a straightening agent and has a pH value of 3-4.

2. The production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, The goose down dyeing process includes the following steps: (2.1) Pretreatment of goose down: Place the goose down in the goose down pretreatment solution and keep it at 60-80℃ for 15-25 minutes; (2.2) Dyeing: Start dyeing at room temperature, add dye and dyeing auxiliaries, adjust the pH of the dyeing solution to 4-4.5, run for 10-30 minutes, then raise the temperature to 80-85℃, keep warm for 30-60 minutes, and wash with water; (2.3) Fixing: Place the dyed goose down in the fixing solution and keep it at 40-50℃ for 10-30 minutes; then wash, dehydrate and dry.

3. The production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics according to claim 2, characterized in that, The dye is a reactive dye or an acid dye.

4. The production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics according to claim 2, characterized in that, The dyeing auxiliaries include glacial acetic acid, leveling agent, and penetrant.

5. The production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, The wool treatment solution includes an antistatic agent, wool oil, and water.

6. The production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, The twist direction of the blended yarn ply is opposite to that of the blended fine yarn.

7. The production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, During the combing process, the cylinder speed is 50r / min-80r / min, and the gap between the cover plates is 4mm-6mm.

8. The production process for wool, cashmere, and down-washed fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the spinning process, the mechanical draft ratio is 1.25-1.35.

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