A double yarn scarf fabric and a method of making the same

Abstract

The present application relates to the technical field of textile weaving, and particularly relates to a double yarn scarf fabric, which comprises 120 double yarns made of 30 wt% mulberry silk floss and 70 wt% cashmere, the double yarns are woven to form the scarf fabric, the fineness of the mulberry silk floss is 1.8-2.2 dtex, and the length is 38-42 mm, the fineness of the cashmere is 13-15 mu m, and the length is 34-38 mm, the width of the fabric is 30-50 cm, and the weft density is 280-300 roots / 10 cm, the two side edges of the fabric width have a double weft overlock locking structure, and the warp density in the range of 2 cm of the edge is 150 roots / inch. The present application significantly improves the weaving adaptability of the high cashmere ratio high count double yarn on the rapier loom through the synergistic matching of the yarn pretreatment process and the key parameters of the rapier loom, the steam setting eliminates the internal stress of the yarn, the anti-slip agent dip coating improves the fiber cohesion, and the use of the weft insertion speed of 280-300 m / min and the flexible rapier head avoids the tensile impact and clamping damage of high count yarn caused by high speed weft insertion.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile weaving technology, and in particular to a double-ply yarn scarf fabric and its preparation method. Background Technology

[0002] Cashmere (cabbage) is known as the "diamond of fibers" due to its fine, soft, smooth texture and excellent warmth; silk (mulberry silk) is renowned for its unique luster, excellent moisture absorption and breathability, and skin-friendly properties. Blending cashmere and silk retains the softness and warmth of cashmere while imparting the luster and drape of silk to the fabric. High-cashmere blends, with a cashmere content of over 70%, combine the ultimate softness of cashmere with the gentle luster of silk, making them an ideal choice for high-end scarves.

[0003] In the prior art, there are relevant reports on cashmere and silk blended fabrics. For example, patent application number CN94118526.5 discloses a cashmere and silk blended fabric, which is woven on a rapier loom after being blended with cashmere fibers and silk into high-count yarn. Regarding the selection of weaving equipment, while air-jet looms are often used for the production of fine-count, lightweight fabrics due to their high speed and good fabric smoothness, they have high requirements for yarn quality, high friction frequency of the yarn on the machine, and relatively high equipment investment and operating costs. Therefore, they are not the optimal choice for fabric products like scarves, which have narrow widths (usually 30-50cm) and flexible batch production. Rapier looms have the advantage of wide adaptability, suitable for various raw materials such as cotton, wool, silk, linen, and their blended yarns, and the equipment investment is relatively economical, making them more suitable for scarf fabric weaving.

[0004] However, when applying rapier looms to the weaving of scarves made from double-ply yarns with a high cashmere ratio (over 70%) and a high count (120 count), the existing technology has the following prominent technical problems: First, controlling weft tension is difficult, resulting in an extremely high breakage rate during weaving. Cashmere fibers have a smooth surface and a thin scale structure, leading to poor cohesion between fibers. During weft insertion on a rapier loom, the yarn is prone to slippage when the rapier head clamps and interlocks, causing tension fluctuations. For 120-count high-count double-ply yarns, their small diameter and relatively limited strength make them highly susceptible to breakage due to sudden tension changes. Using existing rapier weaving technology, the breakage rate is as high as 15-20 yarns per hour, severely impacting production efficiency and fabric quality.

[0005] Secondly, the scarf's narrow width makes the edge warp yarns prone to loosening, and it lacks a dedicated overlock design. Scarf fabrics are typically 30-50cm wide, a typical narrow fabric. During weaving, the warp yarns at the edges of narrow fabrics experience more complex stress than those in the center, making them more susceptible to loosening and slippage due to uneven stress. Existing rapier weaving techniques are mostly designed for standard-width fabrics and lack a dedicated overlock structure for the narrow characteristics of scarves. This results in rough edges, easy yarn shedding, and an edge yarn fraying rate typically exceeding 1.5%, severely impacting product quality and lifespan.

[0006] Third, the combined effect of high-count yarn and high cashmere ratio leads to a fabric that is prone to pilling and lacks drape, making it difficult to balance softness and shape stability in finishing processes. Higher cashmere content results in weaker fiber cohesion, causing fibers to easily slip out of the yarn and form pills during wear and friction. Simultaneously, the 120-count yarn makes the fabric lightweight, and improper control of the setting temperature and time in finishing processes can easily lead to insufficient drape and wrinkling. Regarding softening, cashmere fibers are sensitive to high temperatures; conventional high-temperature setting processes can damage the fibers, resulting in a stiffer feel, while low-temperature conditions make it difficult to maintain the fabric's shape stability. This creates a technological contradiction between softness, drape, and anti-pilling properties.

[0007] In summary, existing rapier weaving technology has not yet systematically adapted to the combined characteristics of a 70% cashmere blend and 120-count double-ply yarn, nor has it solved the edge quality control problem in narrow-width scarf weaving, and it lacks dedicated finishing processes for scarves worn close to the skin. Therefore, a double-ply yarn scarf fabric and its preparation method are needed to solve the above problems. Summary of the Invention

[0008] The purpose of this invention is to solve the problems mentioned in the background section.

[0009] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention adopts the following technical solution: A double-ply yarn scarf fabric, comprising: The scarf fabric is made of 120-count double-ply yarn blended from 30wt% mulberry silk and 70wt% cashmere. The mulberry silk has a fineness of 1.8-2.2 dtex and a length of 38-42 mm, while the cashmere has a fineness of 13-15 μm and a length of 34-38 mm. The fabric has a width of 30-50 cm and a weft density of 280-300 threads / 10 cm. The fabric has a double-weft binding edge structure on both sides of the edge, and the warp density within 2 cm of the edge is 150 threads / inch.

[0010] Preferably, the twist of the double-ply yarn is 420-450 twists / meter, and the twist direction is S-twist; the twist of the single yarn is 1100-1150 twists / meter, and the twist direction is Z-twist; the breaking strength is ≥58CN.

[0011] Preferably, the fabric has a weight of 190-210 g / m², a pilling resistance level of ≥4, a warmth retention rate of ≥60%, and a drape coefficient of ≥88%.

[0012] A method for preparing double-ply yarn scarf fabric includes the following steps: Step 1, Yarn pretreatment: The 120-count double-ply yarn is steam-set at 80-85℃ for 25 minutes, then immersed in an aqueous solution containing 0.8wt% silane coupling agent-type anti-slip agent at 30℃ for 10 minutes, and then air-dried until the moisture regain is 17-19%. Step 2, Rapier loom weaving: Adjust the loom parameters to: weft insertion speed 280-300m / min, shedding time 280-300°, weft tension 25-30cN, warp tension 40-45cN, reed count 120 teeth / inch; use double weft binding and edge locking, with an edge warp density of 150 threads / inch; Step 3, finishing: Wash in warm water at 40-45℃ for 15 minutes, soak in 1.2wt% cashmere-specific silicone softener for 20 minutes, and set at low temperature at 60-65℃ for 30 minutes.

[0013] Preferably, the temperature for steam shaping in step one is 82°C and the time is 25 minutes.

[0014] Preferably, the rapier loom mentioned in step two is a GTX360 rapier loom, with a flexible rapier head configured for the weft insertion mechanism and the weft yarn guide angle adjusted to 35°.

[0015] Preferably, the double weft binding and locking in step two is as follows: within 2cm of the fabric edge, the warp density is increased to 150 yarns / inch, and two weft yarns are introduced at the same time when one weft yarn is introduced in the edge area, and the outermost edge is fixed by wrapping with a single yarn of the same material as the weft yarn.

[0016] Preferably, the bath ratio of the warm water washing in step three is 1:20, and the speed of the low-temperature setting machine is 15m / min.

[0017] Preferably, the post-treatment process in step three is as follows: rinsing with soft water at 40-45℃ for 15 minutes, with a bath ratio of 1:20; Then add 1.2wt% cashmere-specific silicone softener and soak at 35℃ for 20 minutes; Finally, it is treated in a setting machine at 60-65℃ for 30 minutes at a speed of 15m / min.

[0018] The present invention has at least the following beneficial effects: 1. This invention significantly improves the weaving adaptability of high cashmere ratio, high-count double-ply yarns on rapier looms through the synergistic matching of yarn pretreatment processes and key parameters of rapier looms. Steam setting eliminates internal stress in the yarns, and anti-slip agent impregnation enhances fiber cohesion. Combined with a weft insertion speed of 280-300m / min and the use of flexible rapier heads, it avoids tensile impact and clamping damage to high-count yarns caused by high-speed weft insertion. The synergistic effect of these three factors effectively controls yarn breakage during weaving, allowing the loom to operate stably and continuously, with production efficiency significantly superior to conventional rapier weaving processes.

[0019] 2. This invention adopts a special double-weft edge-locking structure. Through a three-layer three-dimensional edge-locking system with increased warp density within 2cm of the edge, simultaneous introduction of double weft yarns in the edge area, and wrapping and fixing of the outermost single yarn of the same material, the edge yarn fixing effect is significantly improved. The neatness and firmness of the finished scarf edge are significantly improved compared with existing products that lack targeted edge-locking design, avoiding the problem of edge fraying and pilling during scarf use.

[0020] 3. This invention, through the synergistic combination of raw material ratio, yarn specifications, and finishing processes, enables the scarf fabric to possess excellent anti-pilling, warmth, and drape properties. The cashmere-specific softener reduces fiber entanglement, and the low-temperature setting protects the fiber structure, giving the fabric good anti-pilling ability. The 70% high cashmere ratio fully utilizes the natural warmth of cashmere. The introduction of silk provides a moderate balance of stiffness and softness in the fabric, resulting in excellent drape. The comprehensive balance of these three properties makes the fabric perfectly suitable for scarf use close to the skin.

[0021] 4. The yarn pretreatment conditions, rapier loom process parameters, and finishing conditions involved in this invention can all be achieved by adjusting parameters on conventional rapier weaving equipment without requiring special modifications to existing equipment. The auxiliaries used in each process are all conventional raw materials in the textile industry, and there are no obstacles to their acquisition. This invention has the conditions to be directly promoted and applied on existing rapier weaving production lines, which is conducive to reducing the technical threshold for the production of high-end cashmere and silk blended scarf fabrics and is suitable for large-scale production. Attached Figure Description

[0022] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings used in the following description of the embodiments will be briefly introduced. Obviously, the drawings described below are some embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0023] Figure 1 This is a flowchart illustrating the rapier weaving process of the 30% silk and 70% cashmere blend scarf fabric of this invention. Detailed Implementation

[0024] To make the objectives, technical solutions, and advantages of this invention clearer, the invention will be further described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative and not intended to limit the invention.

[0025] Reference Figure 1 A double-ply yarn scarf fabric, comprising: The scarf fabric is made from 120-count double-ply yarn, a blend of 30wt% mulberry silk and 70wt% cashmere. The double-ply yarn is woven to form the scarf fabric. The mulberry silk has a fineness of 1.8-2.2 dtex and a length of 38-42 mm, while the cashmere has a fineness of 13-15 μm and a length of 34-38 mm. The fabric width is 30-50 cm, and the weft density is 280-300 threads / 10 cm. The fabric has a double-weft binding and overlock structure on both sides of the width, and the warp density within 2 cm of the edge is 150 threads / inch.

[0026] The twist of the double-ply yarn is 420-450 twists / meter, with an S-twist direction; the twist of the single yarn is 1100-1150 twists / meter, with a Z-twist direction; and the breaking strength is ≥58CN.

[0027] The fabric has a weight of 190-210g / m², a pilling resistance rating of ≥4, a warmth retention rate of ≥60%, and a drape coefficient of ≥88%.

[0028] A method for preparing double-ply yarn scarf fabric includes the following steps: Step 1, Yarn pretreatment: Steam-set 120 count double-ply yarn at 80-85℃ for 25 minutes, then coat with 0.8wt% KH-550 anti-slip agent and air-dry until the moisture regain is 17-19%; Step 2, Rapier loom weaving: Adjust the loom parameters to: weft insertion speed 280-300m / min, shedding time 280-300°, weft tension 25-30cN, warp tension 40-45cN, reed count 120 teeth / inch; use double weft binding and edge locking, with an edge warp density of 150 threads / inch; Step 3, finishing: Wash in warm water at 40-45℃ for 15 minutes, soak in 1.2wt% SR-800 softener for 20 minutes, and set at low temperature at 60-65℃ for 30 minutes.

[0029] In step one, the dipping process involves immersing the yarn in a 30°C aqueous solution containing 0.8wt% KH-550 anti-slip agent for 10 minutes and then air-drying it naturally.

[0030] In step two, the rapier loom is a GTX360 model, with a flexible rapier head for the weft insertion mechanism and the weft yarn guide angle adjusted to 35°.

[0031] In step two, the double weft binding and overlocking involves increasing the warp density to 150 threads / inch within a 2cm range of the fabric edge, while the weft yarn is fixed by wrapping it with a single yarn of the same material.

[0032] In step three, the bath ratio for warm water washing is 1:20, and the speed of the setting machine for low-temperature setting is 15m / min.

[0033] The post-treatment process in step three is as follows: rinse with soft water at 40-45℃ for 15 minutes, with a bath ratio of 1:20; Then add 1.2wt% SR-800 cashmere-specific softener and soak at 35℃ for 20 minutes; Finally, it is treated in a setting machine at 60-65℃ for 30 minutes at a speed of 15m / min.

[0034] SR-800 softener is a cationic silicone microemulsion with a silicone content of 25-30 wt%, an amine value of 0.3-0.6 mmol / g, an average particle size of 50 nm, and a pH value of 5.0-7.0.

[0035] The following analysis provides an overview through several examples: Example 1:

[0036] This embodiment provides a method for preparing scarf fabric woven on a rapier loom using a blend of 30% silk and 70% cashmere yarn in 120 count double-ply yarn. The following detailed description is provided in conjunction with a specific production scenario.

[0037] Raw material preparation; The production scenario in this embodiment is set as follows: a conventional rapier weaving workshop environment is adopted, with the workshop temperature controlled at 22-26℃ and the relative humidity controlled at 65-70%. This environmental condition is conducive to maintaining a suitable moisture regain of cashmere fibers and reducing static electricity. Inner Mongolian white cashmere with a fineness of 14μm, a length of 36mm, and a short fiber content of 7.5% is selected and blended with mulberry silk with a fineness of 2.0dtex, a length of 40mm, and an impurity content of 0.4% at a weight ratio of 30wt% silk and 70wt% cashmere.

[0038] In the blending process, cashmere fibers and silk fibers are first mixed evenly in proportion during the opening and cleaning process. After conventional spinning processes such as carding, drawing, roving, spinning, and winding, 120-count single yarn is produced. The twist direction of the single yarn is Z-twist, and the twist is 1120 twists / meter. Then, the two single yarns are combined on a drawing machine with an S-twist direction and a twist of 430 twists / meter to form a 120-count double-ply yarn. The yarn has a CV value of ≤15.5% and a breaking strength of 60CN.

[0039] Yarn pretreatment; The aforementioned 120 double-strand yarns require pretreatment before weaving. The specific pretreatment operation is as follows: the double-strand yarn wound on the bobbin is loaded into the yarn frame of the steam setting machine. The yarn frame adopts a layered arrangement, with a spacing of 5cm between each layer of yarn tubes to ensure that the steam can penetrate each layer of yarn evenly. The steam setting machine is started, the temperature is set to 82℃, and the heat treatment is carried out for 25 minutes. The purpose of this steam setting treatment is to eliminate the internal stress generated in the yarn during spinning and twisting, so that the molecular chain segments of cashmere and silk fibers in the yarn experience stress relaxation, and the crimp shape tends to be stable, thereby reducing yarn twisting and tension fluctuations caused by the release of internal stress during subsequent weaving.

[0040] After steam setting, the yarn bobbin is removed from the setting machine and allowed to cool naturally to room temperature (approximately 25°C). Then, an anti-slip agent is applied: an aqueous solution containing 0.8 wt% KH-550 anti-slip agent (γ-aminopropyltriethoxysilane coupling agent) is prepared in the impregnation tank. The temperature of the aqueous solution is controlled at 30°C. The entire yarn bobbin is immersed in the impregnation tank, ensuring that the yarn is completely submerged below the liquid surface. The immersion time is 10 minutes.

[0041] During the soaking process, anti-slip agent molecules adsorb onto the scale layer of cashmere fibers and the surface of silk fibers through hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces, forming a molecular-level film. After soaking, the yarn bobbins are removed from the impregnation tank and hung in a well-ventilated place with a temperature of 20-25℃ and a relative humidity of 55-65% to air dry naturally for 4-6 hours until the yarn moisture regain reaches 18%. Within this moisture regain range, the scale layer of cashmere fibers slightly expands, the coefficient of friction on the fiber surface increases, and the cohesion between fibers is significantly improved. If the moisture regain is below 17%, the fiber cohesion is insufficient, and slippage is easy during weaving; if it is above 19%, the yarn strength decreases, and breakage is easy during weaving.

[0042] This embodiment uses the GTX360 rapier loom, which is a double rapier weft insertion system that combines rigidity and flexibility. The core features of this model of loom are: independent double rapier drive, conjugate cam shedding mechanism, and real-time feedback control by electronic tension sensor. Other models of rapier looms with the above core features, such as rapier looms equipped with a double rapier weft insertion system and an electronic tension feedback control system, can also achieve the technical effects of this invention under the same process parameters. The weft insertion mechanism of this loom consists of a left-side weft feed sword and a right-side weft receiving sword. The two swords move towards each other on the guide rail below the reed seat. The tip of the weft feed sword has a hollow clamping structure, with an upper clamping plate and a lower clamping plate inside. The clamping gap between the two clamping plates is provided by a compression spring, and the clamping force can be steplessly adjusted by the adjusting bolt at the rear end of the sword. The tip of the weft receiving sword has a hook-shaped structure and is used to receive the weft yarn delivered by the weft feed sword. The transmission mechanisms of the two swords are independently connected to the main transmission system of the loom, and the swords are driven to reciprocate linearly on the guide rail through a conjugate cam mechanism.

[0043] Before weaving begins, the loom needs to be initially adjusted: First, the angle of the weft yarn guide is adjusted to 35°. The guide is installed on the weft yarn supply path on the left side of the loom, and the line connecting its yarn outlet and the clamping opening of the weft scissor forms a 35° angle with the horizontal plane. This angle adjustment can reduce the corner friction of the weft yarn during the process of unwinding from the bobbin to the scissor head, and reduce the damage to the weft yarn surface. Secondly, a flexible rapier is configured in the weft insertion mechanism. The clamping surface of this flexible rapier is covered with a 0.3mm thick polyurethane elastomer layer with a Shore hardness of 85A. The function of this polyurethane elastomer layer is that when the rapier clamps 120-count double-strand yarn, the elastomer layer can undergo slight elastic deformation, increasing the clamping contact area while maintaining the same clamping force. This reduces the clamping pressure per unit area from approximately 120N / mm² of a conventional rigid rapier to approximately 75N / mm², preventing damage or fiber slippage of high-cashmere yarns due to excessive local pressure. Simultaneously, tension sensors are installed at the output ends of the warp back beam and weft tensioner to monitor yarn tension changes in real time and feed the signals back to the loom's main control system.

[0044] The working process of the weft feeder and weft receiver is as follows: When the loom spindle rotates to 290°, the heald frame rises or falls according to the fabric weave diagram to form the shed. The weft feeder moves from the left side of the loom to the right, its tip gripping the weft yarn as it passes through the shed to the right. During the movement of the weft feeder, the weft yarn unwinds from the bobbin, passes sequentially through the weft tensioner (tension set at 28 cN), the yarn guide (angle 35°), and enters the gripping opening of the weft feeder. When the weft feeder moves to the center-right position of the shed, the weft receiver moves from the right side to the left, its hook-shaped tip extending into the shed and intersecting with the weft feeder in the central area of ​​the shed. At this point, the clamping plate of the feed scalpel releases the weft yarn, and the hook-shaped tip of the receiving scalpel hooks the weft yarn. Then the feed scalpel returns to the left, and the receiving scalpel carries the weft yarn back to the right, completing one weft insertion cycle. The weft insertion speed is set to 290m / min, which is significantly lower than the 400-500m / min used in ordinary fabric weaving. The purpose is to reduce the instantaneous tensile impact force of the scalpel tip on the yarn and avoid high-count yarns from breaking due to excessive acceleration.

[0045] After weft insertion, the reed holder swings forward to beat the weft. The reed holder is equipped with a 120-tooth / inch steel reed. The reed teeth are 0.25mm thick, and the gap between the teeth is 0.21mm. This gap is slightly larger than the diameter of a 120-count double-ply yarn, ensuring the yarn can pass smoothly through the gap without being squeezed or damaged. During weft beating, the introduced weft yarn is pushed into the weft hole one by one, interweaving with the warp yarns to form the fabric. The warp tension is set to 42cN and monitored in real time by a tension sensor on the back beam. When the tension fluctuation exceeds the set value ±3cN, the loom's main control system automatically adjusts the back beam position to compensate for the tension change.

[0046] This embodiment adopts a double weft binding and locking structure. The formation mechanism and working principle of this structure are as follows: within a 2cm range on both sides of the fabric width, the warp density is increased from 120 teeth / inch in the central area to 150 yarns / inch. This increase is achieved by increasing the number of warp yarns passing through the reed teeth in the edge area during the heddle threading process. In the central weaving area, two warp yarns are inserted into each reed tooth; in the 2cm edge area, three warp yarns are inserted into each reed tooth, thus achieving localized densification of the warp yarn density. Simultaneously, when weaving the edge area, after each weft yarn is introduced, the loom control system controls the weft yarn selection mechanism to introduce an additional identical weft yarn. That is, in the 2cm edge area, a double weft yarn introduction method is used, with the weft feed dart clamping two weft yarns simultaneously through the shed in the same weft insertion cycle, resulting in two weft yarns arranged side-by-side in the edge area. At the selvage position, this double weft yarn interweaves with the densified warp yarns, forming a double-layer weft yarn covering the edge warp yarns. The edge warp yarns are simultaneously bound by two weft yarns. Furthermore, within 1cm of the outermost edge of the fabric, the weft yarns use a single yarn of the same material, namely, 120-count double-strand yarn, which is fixed to the edge warp yarns by winding, forming a reinforced edge. This single yarn winding is achieved through a locking hook device on the edge of the loom. The hook hooks the winding yarn around the warp yarn once in each weft insertion cycle, forming a locking structure similar to a sewing stitch, which effectively prevents the edge warp yarn from slipping off.

[0047] After weaving, the greige fabric needs to undergo finishing processes to achieve the final performance of the scarf fabric. Finishing is carried out in a continuous finishing production line, which consists of a washing tank, a softening tank, and a setting machine connected in series. Each unit is connected by guide rollers and tension adjustment devices, and the greige fabric moves continuously between the units.

[0048] First, the fabric undergoes warm water washing: the greige fabric is introduced into a washing tank filled with soft water at 40-45℃, with a bath ratio of 1:20 (1kg greige fabric corresponds to 20L of soft water). The washing time is 15 minutes. The washing tank is equipped with a circulation pump and a heating device. The circulation pump has a flow rate of 5m³ / h to ensure uniform water temperature and full contact between the water and the greige fabric. During the washing process, the greige fabric moves in a relaxed state in the washing tank. The linear speed of the guide roller is 25m / min. The greige fabric is continuously impacted and washed by the water flow as it moves, removing residual KH-550 anti-slip agent from the yarn surface, as well as oils, waxes, and dust impurities that adhere to the yarn during spinning. Warm water washing also causes the scales on the surface of the cashmere fibers to open slightly, and the cross-linking points between fibers are opened appropriately, eliminating residual stress inside the yarn and making the fabric feel softer.

[0049] After being washed in warm water and dehydrated by guide rollers and pad rollers, the greige fabric enters a softening treatment tank. The softening treatment tank contains an aqueous solution containing 1.2 wt% SR-800 cashmere-specific softener, with the solution temperature controlled at 35℃. The greige fabric is immersed in the softening treatment tank for 20 minutes. A circulation pump is also installed in the softening treatment tank to maintain the uniform dispersion of the softener solution. SR-800 softener is a cationic silicone microemulsion with an average particle size of 50 nm, capable of penetrating into the interscalar spaces of cashmere fibers and the internal voids of silk fibers. During immersion, softener molecules adsorb onto the fiber surface through ionic bonds and hydrophobic interactions, forming a lubricating film approximately 2-5 nm thick. This lubricating film reduces the dynamic coefficient of friction between fibers, decreasing resistance during subsequent fabric sliding, thus giving the fabric a soft and skin-friendly feel. Simultaneously, the silicone segments in the softener molecules fill the tiny grooves on the fiber surface, making the fiber surface smoother, reducing snagging and entanglement between fibers, and helping to reduce pilling tendency.

[0050] After the softened fabric is squeezed to remove excess liquid by rollers, it enters the setting machine at a speed of 15 m / min for low-temperature setting. The setting machine is a hot air circulation type, with a set temperature of 62℃ and a processing time of 30 minutes. Inside the setting machine, the fabric is clamped on a needle plate chain, with the needle plate width set to the finished width of the fabric at 40 cm. During the fabric's movement, hot air is blown vertically onto the fabric surface at a wind speed of 10 m / s, with a hot air circulation rate of 20,000 m³ / h to ensure uniform fabric temperature. The setting temperature of 62℃ is significantly lower than the conventional setting temperature of 120-150℃ for cashmere fabrics. Its technical function is as follows: at lower temperatures, the keratin molecular chains of cashmere fibers do not undergo thermal degradation, and the elastic modulus and elongation at break of the fibers are maintained. At the same time, the β-fold structure of silk fibers does not undergo irreversible changes at this temperature, and the luster of the fabric is preserved. During the setting process, the hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces inside the fibers are re-established in new morphological positions, which improves the dimensional stability of the fabric in the width direction. It is less likely to shrink or deform during subsequent washing or wearing. After setting, the fabric is naturally cooled to room temperature to obtain the finished scarf fabric with a width of 40cm and a weight of 200g / m².

[0051] The scarf fabric prepared through the above processes was tested using standard testing methods: breaking strength 60CN; anti-pilling grade 4.5 according to GB / T4802.3 standard; warmth retention rate 63% according to GB / T11048 standard; drape coefficient 90% according to FZ / T01045 standard; edge yarn loosening rate 0.2%; and the breakage rate during weaving was 7 yarns / hour.

[0052] The method for determining the edge loose yarn rate is as follows: Take a full-width sample of the finished scarf fabric along the width direction, count the number of loose or stray warp yarns within 2cm on both sides of the fabric edge, divide by the total number of warp yarns in that edge area, and express as a percentage.

[0053] The statistical method for weaving breakage rate is as follows: under the condition of normal loom operation (excluding planned shutdowns such as splicing and bobbin changing), the number of weft yarn breaks is continuously counted within 8 hours, and the average value is recorded in units of yarns / hour.

[0054] To verify the technical effectiveness of the present invention, three batches of scarf fabric samples were prepared according to the process conditions of Example 1, and tested according to GB / T4802.3, GB / T11048, and FZ / T01045 standards, respectively. The test results are as follows: Fracture strength (CN) 61 59 60 60 - Anti-pilling rating (grade) 4.5 4.5 4.0 4.3 GB / T 4802.3 Warmth retention rate (%) 64 62 63 63 GB / T 11048 Sag factor (%) 91 89 90 90 FZ / T 01045 Edge loose yarn rate (%) 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.2 - Weaving breakage rate (threads / hour) 7 8 7 7.3 - The above test results show that the scarf fabric prepared using the technical solution of this invention can stably achieve performance indicators such as anti-pilling level ≥4, warmth retention rate ≥60%, and drape coefficient ≥88%.

[0055] Example 2:

[0056] The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 1 lies in the weft insertion speed and weft tension parameters in the rapier loom weaving process, to illustrate the impact of different parameter values ​​on fabric performance. Specifically: In the rapier loom weaving process, the weft insertion speed is set to 300m / min, the weft tension is set to 30cN, and the other parameters are exactly the same as in Example 1.

[0057] Specifically, the steam setting temperature is 82℃ for 25 minutes, the concentration of KH-550 anti-slip agent is 0.8wt%, the immersion time is 10 minutes, and the moisture regain is controlled at 18%; the warp tension is 42cN, the shedding time is 290°, the reed number is 120 teeth / inch, and the edge warp density is 150 threads / inch; the warm water scouring temperature is 42℃ for 15 minutes, the liquor ratio is 1:20, the softener concentration is 1.2wt%, the immersion temperature is 35℃ for 20 minutes, the setting temperature is 62℃ for 30 minutes, and the machine speed is 15m / min.

[0058] With a weft insertion speed of 300 m / min, the reciprocating speeds of the weft feed dart and the weft receiving dart are correspondingly increased. The linear velocity of the weft yarn as it unwinds from the bobbin, passes through the yarn guide, and enters the dart head also increases accordingly. At this point, the weft yarn tension is increased to 30 cN. The purpose is to ensure sufficient tension of the weft yarn during the dart head clamping process at higher speeds, preventing the weft yarn from shaking or drifting within the shed due to inertia. Under this tension, the clamping force of the dart head clamping plate on the weft yarn remains within the elastic deformation range of the flexible dart head polyurethane layer, without causing damage to the yarn surface. Testing shows that this parameter... The scarf fabric prepared under these conditions has a breaking strength of 58 cN, a pilling resistance level of 4, a drape coefficient of 88%, an edge loose yarn rate of 0.3%, and a weaving breakage rate of 8 yarns / hour. Compared with Example 1, the increase in weft insertion speed and weft tension shortens the single weft insertion cycle time and slightly improves production efficiency. However, the dynamic stretching frequency of the yarn during weft insertion increases, resulting in a slightly lower breaking strength and pilling resistance than Example 1. This indicates that a weft insertion speed of 290 m / min and a weft tension of 28 cN is a better parameter combination that can better balance production efficiency and product quality.

[0059] Example 3:

[0060] The difference between this embodiment and Embodiment 1 lies in the setting temperature of the finishing process, in order to illustrate the influence of setting temperature on fabric performance.

[0061] In the low-temperature setting process, the setting temperature was set at 65℃, and the remaining parameters were exactly the same as in Example 1. Specifically, the steam setting temperature was 82℃ for 25 minutes, the concentration of KH-550 anti-slip agent was 0.8wt%, the immersion time was 10 minutes, and the moisture regain was controlled at 18%. The weft insertion speed of the rapier loom was 290m / min, the weft tension was 28cN, the warp tension was 42cN, the shedding time was 290°, the reed number was 120 teeth / inch, and the edge warp density was 150 threads / inch. The warm water washing temperature was 42℃ for 15 minutes, the liquor ratio was 1:20, the softener concentration was 1.2wt%, the immersion temperature was 35℃ for 20 minutes, the setting time was 30 minutes, and the machine speed was 15m / min.

[0062] At a setting temperature of 65℃, increasing the hot air temperature of the setting machine by 3℃ enhances the mobility of cashmere fiber keratin molecular chains when the fabric is heated on the needle plate chain compared to 62℃. This results in more complete rearrangement of molecular chain segments within the fibers, further improving the dimensional stability of the fabric in the width direction. However, at 65℃, some of the β-fold structure of silk fibers undergoes a conformational transformation to random curl, leading to a slight decrease in the characteristic luster of silk. Simultaneously, the thermal shrinkage rate of the scale layer on the surface of cashmere fibers is slightly higher at 65℃ than at 62℃, increasing the cross-linking density between fibers and causing a slight tendency for the fabric to harden slightly.

[0063] Tests showed that the scarf fabric prepared under these parameters had a breaking strength of 59 CN, a pilling resistance level of 4.5, a drape coefficient of 89%, an edge loose yarn rate of 0.2%, and a weaving breakage rate of 7 yarns / hour. Compared with Example 1, the dimensional stability of the fabric was slightly improved after the setting temperature was increased to 65℃, but the luster and softness decreased. Therefore, 62℃ is a more ideal setting temperature, which can preserve the softness of cashmere and the luster and texture of silk to the greatest extent while ensuring dimensional stability.

[0064] In summary, the technical effect of the present invention stems from the synergistic cooperation between various processes, and its technical chain is as follows: The first step involves yarn pretreatment to address yarn weavability issues, followed by steam setting to eliminate internal yarn stress, laying the foundation for tension stability during subsequent weaving. KH-550 anti-slip agent forms a molecular film on the surface of cashmere fibers, increasing the coefficient of friction between fibers and directly reducing yarn slippage during the rapier weft insertion process. The order of these two sub-steps is crucial; if dipping is performed before setting, the high-temperature steam will damage the anti-slip agent film, leading to treatment failure.

[0065] The second step involves parameter matching on the rapier loom to address weaving tension control. This involves reducing the weft insertion speed to 280-300 m / min, combined with a flexible rapier head to lower clamping pressure and a 35° yarn guide angle to reduce unwinding friction. These three factors work together to reduce the dynamic tension peak of high-count yarns under high-speed weft insertion conditions, lowering the yarn breakage rate from 15-20 yarns / hour to ≤8 yarns / hour. Without a flexible rapier head, even with reduced weft insertion speed, rigid clamping would still cause localized yarn damage.

[0066] The third step involves double-weft edging to solve the problem of loose yarn at the edge of the scarf. The edge warp yarns are denser (150 yarns / inch), double weft yarns are introduced at the same time, and single yarns are wrapped and fixed at the edge. The three-layer structure forms a three-dimensional edging system. The denser warp yarns provide more interlacing points, the double weft yarns enhance the binding force, and the single yarn wrapping provides the final protection against slipping.

[0067] The fourth step, the finishing process, addresses the performance issues of the finished product. Warm water washing removes the anti-slip agent, preventing the softener from being blocked and rendered ineffective by the anti-slip agent; softening provides a skin-friendly feel; low-temperature setting at 60-65℃ fixes the fabric shape; the order of washing, softening, and setting cannot be changed. If softening is done before washing, the softener will be removed by the washing; if the setting temperature is too high, it will damage the cashmere fibers and negate the effect of the softening treatment.

[0068] The four steps are linked in sequence. The absence or disorder of any step will result in the final product failing to meet the comprehensive requirements of breakage rate, edge loose yarn rate, anti-pilling grade, drape coefficient and warmth retention rate.

[0069] The foregoing has shown and described the basic principles, main features, and advantages of the present invention. Those skilled in the art should understand that the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments. The embodiments and descriptions in the specification are merely principles of the invention. Various changes and modifications can be made to the invention without departing from its spirit and scope, and all such changes and modifications fall within the scope of the claimed invention. The scope of protection claimed by the appended claims and their equivalents is defined.

Claims

1. A double-ply yarn scarf fabric, characterized in that, include: The scarf fabric is made of 120-count double-ply yarn blended from 30wt% mulberry silk and 70wt% cashmere. The mulberry silk has a fineness of 1.8-2.2 dtex and a length of 38-42 mm, while the cashmere has a fineness of 13-15 μm and a length of 34-38 mm. The fabric has a width of 30-50 cm and a weft density of 280-300 threads / 10 cm. The fabric has a double-weft binding edge structure on both sides, which includes: a warp density of 150 threads / inch within 2 cm of the edge; the edge area is woven with both weft yarns and warp yarns simultaneously; and the outermost edge is wrapped and fixed with a single yarn of the same material as the weft yarn.

2. The double-ply yarn scarf fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The twist of the double-ply yarn is 420-450 twists / meter, with an S-twist direction; the twist of the single yarn is 1100-1150 twists / meter, with a Z-twist direction; and the breaking strength is ≥58CN.

3. The double-ply yarn scarf fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, The fabric has a weight of 190-210 g / m², a pilling resistance rating of ≥4, a warmth retention rate of ≥60%, and a drape coefficient of ≥88%.

4. A method for preparing the double-ply yarn scarf fabric according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: Step 1, Yarn pretreatment: The 120-count double-ply yarn is steam-set at 80-85℃ for 25 minutes, then immersed in an aqueous solution containing 0.8wt% silane coupling agent-type anti-slip agent at 30℃ for 10 minutes, and then air-dried until the moisture regain is 17-19%. Step 2, Rapier loom weaving: Adjust the loom parameters to: weft insertion speed 280-300m / min, shedding time 280-300°, weft tension 25-30cN, warp tension 40-45cN, reed count 120 teeth / inch; use double weft binding and edge locking, with an edge warp density of 150 threads / inch; Step 3, finishing: Wash in warm water at 40-45℃ for 15 minutes, soak in 1.2wt% cashmere-specific silicone softener for 20 minutes, and set at low temperature at 60-65℃ for 30 minutes.

5. The method for preparing a double-ply yarn scarf fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, The temperature for steam setting in step one is 82°C, and the time is 25 minutes.

6. The method for preparing a double-ply yarn scarf fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, The rapier loom mentioned in step two is a rapier loom equipped with a double rapier weft insertion system. The weft insertion mechanism is equipped with a flexible rapier head, and the angle of the weft yarn guide is adjusted to 35°.

7. The method for preparing a double-ply yarn scarf fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, The double weft binding and locking edge described in step two is as follows: within a 2cm range of the fabric edge, the warp density is increased to 150 yarns / inch, and two weft yarns are introduced at the same time as each weft yarn is introduced in the edge area. The outermost edge is fixed by wrapping with a single yarn of the same material as the weft yarn.

8. The method for preparing a double-ply yarn scarf fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, The bath ratio for the warm water washing in step three is 1:20, and the speed of the low-temperature setting machine is 15m / min.

9. The method for preparing a double-ply yarn scarf fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that, The post-treatment process described in step three is as follows: rinse with soft water at 40-45℃ for 15 minutes, with a bath ratio of 1:20; Then add 1.2wt% cashmere-specific silicone softener and soak at 35℃ for 20 minutes; Finally, it is treated in a setting machine at 60-65℃ for 30 minutes at a speed of 15m / min.

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