Preparation method of super-high-count worsted yarn of silk cashmere

Abstract

The present application relates to high-branch worsted technology field, disclose a kind of preparation method of silk cashmere super high-branch worsted yarn.Select the cashmere strip of average length not less than 45 mm and 20 mm below short fiber not more than 10 weight parts with total weight of 100 weight parts, and the silk strip of average length not less than 60 mm and 20 mm below short fiber not more than 3 weight parts with total weight of 100 weight parts;After mixing in proportion, oil agent, antistatic agent and water are respectively applied in the front section of mixing strip and scouring stage after combing, and section is nursed;Through multi-pass gilling, combing and at least two levels of self-adjusting leveling control sliver quality;Again, 35-40 times draft and 1600-1750 T / m are spun to spun yarn, and double worsted yarn with metric number of 180-200 Nm is formed by doubling and doubling. The process is segmented control for super high-branch fiber slip, static and sliver evenness. Silk strip in formula is divided into front section feeding part and rear section feeding part after scouring, to give consideration to front section lap and rear section long fiber supplement.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of ultra-high count worsted spinning technology of animal protein fibers, specifically involving the leveling, moisture conditioning and spinning of slivers of double-ply yarn with a metric count of 180-200 Nm, which is a blend of silk and cashmere. Background Technology

[0002] Silk is characterized by its longer length, better tensile strength, and soft luster, while cashmere is characterized by its finer texture, soft hand feel, and good warmth retention. Blending the two can achieve a balance between appearance, strength, and feel. As yarn count increases, the number of fibers per unit cross-section decreases, and fluctuations in raw material short fiber content, sliver weight, and drafting deviations are more easily translated into fine and thick spots, breakage, and metric count deviations. Therefore, the high-count worsted spinning of silk and cashmere depends not only on the blending ratio but also on the combined influence of raw material length thresholds and sliver condition at various stages.

[0003] Silk and cashmere differ in length, crimp, coefficient of friction, and electrostatic behavior. During sliver mixing and drafting, longer, smoother silk fibers move quickly, while shorter cashmere fibers may form floating fibers or become partially stuck. In drier environments, the two fibers may also delaminate, entangle, and produce fly due to differences in charge. Applying oils, antistatic agents, and water in the initial stages can improve the sliver mixing and combing feed conditions, but combing and rewashing will change the oil and water content of the fiber surface again. If no adjustments are made in the later stages, the cohesion and electrostatic conditions established in the initial stages are difficult to carry over to the roving and spinning processes.

[0004] Self-leveling can adjust local drafting based on the quality fluctuations of the fed sliver, and its setting position determines the source of the fluctuations that can be compensated for. Setting leveling only before combing cannot eliminate the unevenness of newly introduced long segments during combing, washing, and subsequent doubling; setting leveling only before roving makes it difficult to stabilize the combing feed. At the same time, if all the silk is added in the front stage, the long fibers will undergo combing and washing completely; if all the silk is added in the back stage, it is difficult to provide overlap for the cashmere short fibers in the front stage. Therefore, the silk feeding sequence, the two-stage moisture conditioning and curing, and the two-stage self-leveling need to be coordinated.

[0005] Existing technologies have disclosed relatively wide-ranging high-count worsted spinning schemes for cashmere and natural silk, and also include high-count cashmere silk yarn and ultra-high-count pure cashmere processes. Simply using a 70:30 component ratio or labeling the yarn as high-count yarn is insufficient to consistently reflect process improvements. For ultra-high-count spinning, it is still necessary to further limit the average length, fineness, and short fiber content of the cashmere and silk slivers, and to continuously control the segmented feeding of silk, the moisture conditioning before and after combing, the two-stage leveling positions, and the yarn draft twist. Summary of the Invention

[0006] This invention addresses the shortcomings of existing technologies by providing a method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere, which solves the technical problems existing in the mixing, carding or spinning process of the above-mentioned fiber system.

[0007] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention provides the following technical solution: a method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere, comprising the following steps: Step A: providing cashmere sliver with an average length of not less than 45 mm, an average fineness of 15-17 μm, and a short fiber length of less than 20 mm of no more than 10 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of total cashmere sliver weight; and silk sliver with an average length of not less than 60 mm, an average fineness of 10-12 μm, and a short fiber length of less than 20 mm of no more than 3 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of total silk sliver weight; Step B: dividing the silk sliver required for the formula into a first silk sliver portion and a second silk sliver portion, based on a total weight of 100 parts by weight of silk sliver and cashmere sliver, according to 70 parts by weight of silk sliver and 30 parts by weight of cashmere sliver; mixing the first silk sliver portion with the cashmere sliver in the first stage, applying oil, antistatic agent and water in a mass ratio of 1:1:12 and curing for 20-28 hours; Step C: The first self-leveling, combing, and rewashing of the front sliver are performed sequentially. During the rewashing stage, the oil, antistatic agent, and water are applied for the second time at a mass ratio of 1:1:12 and the mixture is cured for 40-56 hours. Step D: After the rewashing is completed and at the beginning of the back sliver mixing, the second silk sliver portion is added, and the back sliver mixing and second self-leveling are performed. The first self-leveling is performed before combing, and the second self-leveling is performed after the rewashing and back sliver mixing and before the roving. Step E: The fiber sliver obtained from the second self-leveling is drafted and twisted to form a roving. Step F: The obtained roving is spun into a single yarn with a draft ratio of 37-39 times and a Z-axis twist of 1680-1720 T / m. Step G: The two obtained single yarns are combined and double-twisted to form a double-ply worsted yarn with a metric count of 190-200 Nm.

[0008] In the preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the average length of the cashmere sliver is 45 mm and the average fineness is 16.46 μm. Based on 100 parts by weight of the total weight of the cashmere sliver, the short fibers with a length of less than 20 mm are 9.50 parts by weight; the average length of the silk sliver is 64.5 mm and the average fineness is 11.05 μm. Based on 100 parts by weight of the total weight of the silk sliver, the short fibers with a length of less than 20 mm are 1.90 parts by weight.

[0009] The preferred method described above involves a 24-hour recovery period after the first application and a 48-hour recovery period after the second application.

[0010] The preferred embodiment of the above technical solution has a yarn draft ratio of 37.9, a twist of 1700 T / m, and a spindle speed of 6000 r / min.

[0011] In the preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the metric count of the obtained single yarn is 195–201 Nm.

[0012] In the preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the downstream mixing section includes at least two mixing stages.

[0013] In the preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the first silk sliver portion participates in the initial mixing, the first self-regulating leveling, and the combing, while the second silk sliver portion only participates in the subsequent mixing and subsequent processes.

[0014] A high-count worsted yarn for silk cashmere, characterized in that it is prepared by the above-mentioned method.

[0015] A finely woven fabric, characterized in that it is woven from finely spun yarn.

[0016] A knitted fabric characterized by being knitted from worsted yarn.

[0017] The technical problem this invention aims to solve is to suppress the amplified short fiber runaway, fiber slippage, long-segment quality fluctuations, and electrostatic interference caused by the reduction in the number of fibers per unit yarn cross-section when spinning ultra-high-count yarn with a metric count of 190–200 Nm from silk and cashmere blends. To this end, this invention establishes a continuous control relationship across five levels: raw material length and short fiber content, segmented silk feeding, two-stage moisture conditioning before and after combing, two-stage self-regulating leveling, and the coordination of yarn drafting and twist.

[0018] The average length of cashmere slivers should not be less than 45 mm, and the amount of short fibers shorter than 20 mm should not exceed 10 parts by weight. The average length of silk slivers should not be less than 60 mm, and the corresponding amount of short fibers should not exceed 3 parts by weight. Ultra-high count yarns have a lower linear density, limiting the number of fibers that can participate in load-bearing and mutual binding within the same cross-section. If the short fiber content is too high, some fibers will be in a floating state between the roller nipples without effective control, easily leading to premature or delayed speed changes and the formation of drafting waves. Longer silk fibers form overlaps spanning a longer distance within the fiber bundle, while cashmere fibers constitute the soft main body. By limiting the length, fineness, and short fiber content of both types of raw materials, the fiber aggregate before high-ratio drafting has a basic length structure that can maintain continuous force transmission.

[0019] After mixing 70 parts by weight of silk sliver and 30 parts by weight of cashmere sliver, the silk sliver is divided into a first silk sliver portion and a second silk sliver portion. The first portion is mixed with the cashmere sliver in the initial stage and participates in the first self-regulating leveling and combing process. This allows the longer silk fibers to be distributed among the cashmere fibers before combing, providing longitudinal overlap for the short cashmere fibers and ensuring that both fibers receive the initial leveling treatment. The second portion does not undergo the initial combing and rewashing. Instead, it is added after the rewashing process and at the beginning of the subsequent sliver mixing. This portion of silk sliver maintains a longer effective length and its original surface condition, supplementing the long fiber skeleton in the fiber sliver after combing to remove short fibers and after rewashing. The sum of the two portions remains 70 parts by weight in the original formula; therefore, the change is in the timing of the long fibers entering the process chain, not the final component ratio.

[0020] During the initial blending stage, an oil, antistatic agent, and water mixture is applied in a 1:1:12 mass ratio and cured for 20–28 hours. This ensures that the cashmere sliver and the first silk sliver portion achieve a more uniform moisture regain and surface friction state before entering the combing stage. During combing, short fibers, fibers, and fiber knots are removed or rearranged. The rewashing process further alters the oil-water distribution on the fiber surface. Therefore, a second application of the same mass ratio is performed during the rewashing stage, followed by curing for 40–56 hours. This allows the fiber surface to re-establish friction conditions suitable for subsequent blending and drafting. These two treatments correspond to different fiber states before combing and after rewashing, respectively. If oil is only applied once in the initial stage, the initial oil-water state may be altered after combing and rewashing, making it difficult to continuously control static electricity and fiber slippage in the later stages.

[0021] The first self-leveling stage, located before combing, detects and corrects quality fluctuations per unit length in the initial sliver blend, ensuring a more stable feed rate into the combing and carding areas. This reduces the likelihood of fluctuating combing load and fiber loss due to inconsistent feed thickness. Combing, washing, and the addition of the second sliver introduce new quality and composition fluctuations. Therefore, a second self-leveling stage is set after the later sliver blend and before roving to further correct the quality of the resulting fiber sliver. The two leveling stages control the original feed fluctuations before combing and the new fluctuations after washing and adding sliver, respectively. They cannot be completely replaced by a single leveling stage at a single location. After the second sliver is added, at least two later sliver blends are performed to disperse it into the original fiber sliver through merging and drafting before entering the second self-leveling stage. This prevents the added sliver from forming a continuous band of components along the sliver length.

[0022] After being roving from fiber slivers that have undergone two stages of leveling, the yarn is spun into single yarn with a draft of 37–39 times and a Z-axis twist of 1680–1720 T / m. High drafting is highly sensitive to the length distribution, friction state, and linear density fluctuations of the feed sliver. The aforementioned raw material screening, segmented moisture conditioning, and two-stage leveling work together to reduce the state differences entering the yarn drafting zone, making the fiber transition more closely to a continuous speed change when the back roller speed transitions to the front roller speed. The twist ensures that the fine fibers form a helical arrangement around the yarn beam immediately after leaving the front roller nip, transmitting axial load through radial pressure and inter-fiber friction, and limiting the outward migration of a small number of free fibers in high-count single yarns. The two single yarns are then combined and double-twisted to form a double-ply worsted yarn, which allows the local mass fluctuations of the two single yarns to be staggered across the ply cross-section, improving the structural integrity during subsequent unwinding and weaving.

[0023] Compared with existing technologies, this invention provides a continuous overlap basis for ultra-high count yarn drawing by limiting the length of raw materials and the content of short fibers; it balances the overlap of long fibers in cashmere before combing and the replenishment of long fibers after washing by feeding silk in stages before and after combing; it stabilizes the fiber surface state in the two processing stages by conditioning and curing before and after combing; and it reduces the fluctuations in the feeding stage and the fluctuations in the later stage caused by washing and replenishing silk by two-stage self-regulating leveling and multiple blending in the later stage. Then, it completes ultra-high count yarn drawing with high drafting and high twist. This can improve the control of silk and cashmere in ultra-high count spinning, reduce fiber slippage, electrostatic entanglement and the transfer of long segment unevenness to the yarn, and provide a process basis for forming a stable metric count and continuous yarn body double-ply worsted yarn. Detailed Implementation

[0024] The technical solutions of various embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of them. Based on the embodiments described in the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0025] Example 1: A method for preparing a high-count worsted yarn of silk cashmere, comprising the following steps: Step A: Inspect and select cashmere slivers and silk slivers that meet the requirements for length, fineness, and short fiber content; take 30 parts by weight of silk slivers and 70 parts by weight of cashmere slivers, totaling 100 parts by weight; the average length of the cashmere slivers shall not be less than 45 mm, the fineness shall be 15 μm, and based on the total weight of the corresponding cashmere slivers as 100 parts by weight, the short fibers below 20 mm shall not exceed 10 parts by weight; the average length of the silk slivers shall not be less than 60 mm, the fineness shall be 10 μm, and based on the total weight of the corresponding silk slivers as 100 parts by weight, the short fibers below 20 mm shall not exceed 3 parts by weight.

[0026] Step B: The cashmere slivers and silk slivers are mixed in the first stage according to the set ratio. After the first application of oil, antistatic agent and water, the mixture is cured for 20 hours. The ratio of oil:antistatic agent:water is 1:1:12 for both stages. Among them, based on the total weight of silk slivers required by the formula as 100 parts by weight, 40 parts by weight are added as the first silk sliver portion in the first stage of mixing, and the remaining 60 parts by weight are added at the beginning of the second stage of mixing after combing and rewashing. The sum of the two additions keeps the total silk sliver ratio unchanged in this embodiment.

[0027] Step C: The front-end mixed strips are subjected to the first self-regulating leveling, combing and rewashing in sequence, followed by the second application of oiling agent, antistatic agent and water and then curing; after combing and rewashing, the second application is carried out and cured for 40 hours.

[0028] Step D: The washed fiber sliver is then subjected to post-mixing and second self-regulating.

[0029] Step E: The fiber sliver obtained from the second self-leveling process is subjected to roving drafting and twisting.

[0030] Step F: The obtained roving is subjected to fine yarn drafting and Z-axis twisting to produce ultra-high count single yarn; two-stage self-regulating leveling is set, with fine yarn drafting of 35 times and twist of 1600 T / m in the Z direction.

[0031] Step G: Combine the two obtained single yarns and twist them twice to make a double-strand worsted yarn; then combine and twist them again to form a double-strand yarn with a metric count of 180 Nm.

[0032] Example 2: A method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere, comprising the following steps: Step A: Inspect and select cashmere slivers and silk slivers that meet the requirements for length, fineness and short fiber content; take 70 parts by weight of silk slivers and 30 parts by weight of cashmere slivers; the fineness of cashmere slivers is taken at the 17 μm boundary, and the fineness of silk slivers is taken at the 12 μm boundary, and the average length and short fiber content still meet the above raw material requirements.

[0033] Step B: The cashmere slivers and silk slivers are mixed in the first stage according to the set ratio. After the first application of oil, antistatic agent and water, the mixture is cured for 28 hours and 56 hours. The total weight of the silk slivers required by the formula is 100 parts by weight. 60 parts by weight are added as the first silk sliver portion in the first stage of mixing, and the remaining 40 parts by weight are added at the beginning of the second stage of mixing after combing and rewashing. The sum of the two additions keeps the total silk sliver ratio unchanged in this embodiment.

[0034] Step C: The front-end mixed strips are subjected to the first self-regulating and leveling, combing and rewashing in sequence, followed by the second application of oiling agent, antistatic agent and water conditioning.

[0035] Step D: The washed fiber sliver is then subjected to post-mixing and second self-regulating.

[0036] Step E: The fiber sliver obtained from the second self-leveling process is subjected to roving drafting and twisting.

[0037] Step F: The obtained roving is subjected to fine yarn drafting and Z-axis twisting to produce ultra-high count single yarn; the fine yarn drafting is 40 times and the twist in the Z-axis is 1750 T / m.

[0038] Step G: Combine the two obtained single yarns and twist them twice to produce double-strand worsted yarn.

[0039] Example 3: A method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere, comprising the following steps: Step A: Inspect and select cashmere slivers and silk slivers that meet the requirements for length, fineness and short fiber content; take 50 parts by weight of silk slivers and 50 parts by weight of cashmere slivers; the cashmere fineness is 16 μm, the silk fineness is 11 μm, and the length and short fiber content meet the above raw material requirements.

[0040] Step B: The cashmere slivers and silk slivers are mixed in the first stage according to the set ratio. After the first application of oil, antistatic agent and water, the mixture is cured for 24 hours and 48 hours respectively. Among them, based on the total weight of the silk slivers required by the formula as 100 parts by weight, 50 parts by weight are added as the first silk sliver portion in the first stage of mixing, and the remaining 50 parts by weight are added at the beginning of the second stage of mixing after combing and rewashing. The sum of the two additions keeps the total silk sliver ratio unchanged in this embodiment.

[0041] Step C: The front-end mixed strips are subjected to the first self-regulating and leveling, combing and rewashing in sequence, followed by the second application of oiling agent, antistatic agent and water conditioning.

[0042] Step D: The washed fiber sliver undergoes post-mixing and second self-leveling; the first self-leveling is performed before combing, and the second self-leveling is performed after washing and post-mixing, and before roving.

[0043] Step E: The fiber sliver obtained from the second self-leveling process is subjected to roving drafting and twisting.

[0044] Step F: The obtained roving is subjected to fine yarn drafting and Z-axis twisting to produce ultra-high count single yarn; the fine yarn drafting is 37.5 times and the twist in the Z-axis is 1675 T / m.

[0045] Step G: Combine the two obtained single yarns and twist them twice to produce double-strand worsted yarn.

[0046] Example 4: A method for preparing a high-count worsted yarn of cashmere and silk, comprising the following steps: Step A: Inspect and select cashmere slivers and silk slivers that meet the requirements for length, fineness and short fiber content; the average length of cashmere is 45 mm, the fineness is 16.46 μm, and the short fiber content is 9.50 parts by weight (less than 20 mm) per 100 parts by weight of total cashmere; the average length of silk slivers is 64.5 mm, the fineness is 11.05 μm, and the short fiber content is 1.90 parts by weight (less than 20 mm) per 100 parts by weight of total silk slivers.

[0047] Step B: Mix cashmere slivers and silk slivers in a pre-mixing process according to a set ratio. Apply oil, antistatic agent, and water for the first time, followed by curing. Take 70 parts by weight of silk and 30 parts by weight of cashmere. Apply oil, antistatic agent, and water in a ratio of 1:1:12 twice, and cure for 24 hours and 48 hours respectively. Of these, based on a total weight of 100 parts by weight of silk slivers required by the formula, 50 parts by weight are used as the first silk sliver portion for the pre-mixing, first self-regulating leveling, and combing. The remaining 50 parts by weight are added to the post-mixing process immediately after the rewash, and at least two mixing processes are completed before the second self-regulating leveling. The sum of the two additions maintains the total silk sliver ratio of this embodiment.

[0048] Step C: The front-end mixed strips are subjected to the first self-regulating and leveling, combing and rewashing in sequence, followed by the second application of oiling agent, antistatic agent and water conditioning.

[0049] Step D: The washed fiber sliver is then subjected to post-mixing and second self-regulating.

[0050] Step E: The fiber sliver obtained from the second self-leveling process is subjected to roving drafting and twisting.

[0051] Step F: The obtained roving is subjected to fine yarn drafting and Z-axis twisting to produce ultra-high count single yarn; the fine yarn drafting is 37.9 times, the twist in the Z-axis is 1700 T / m, and the spindle speed is 6000 r / min; the metric count is 198.198 Nm, the strength is 145.6 cN, and the twist variation coefficient is 0.02261.

[0052] Step G: Combine the two obtained single yarns and twist them twice to produce double-strand worsted yarn.

Claims

1. A method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: Step A: Provide cashmere slivers with an average length of not less than 45 mm, an average fineness of 15 μm to 17 μm, and a length of not more than 10 parts by weight of short fibers less than 20 mm based on 100 parts by weight of total cashmere slivers; and silk slivers with an average length of not less than 60 mm, an average fineness of 10 μm to 12 μm, and a length of not more than 3 parts by weight of short fibers less than 20 mm based on 100 parts by weight of total silk slivers. Step B: Based on a total of 100 parts by weight of silk strips and cashmere strips, prepare the ingredients according to 70 parts by weight of silk strips and 30 parts by weight of cashmere strips. Divide the required silk strips into a first silk strip part and a second silk strip part. Mix the first silk strip part with the cashmere strips in the first stage. Apply the oil, antistatic agent and water in a mass ratio of 1:1:12 and cure for 20h to 28h. Step C: The front-end mixed strips are subjected to the first self-regulating homogenization, combing and rewashing in sequence. During the rewashing stage, the oil, antistatic agent and water are applied for the second time in a mass ratio of 1:1:12 and cured for 40h to 56h. Step D: After the rewash is completed and at the beginning of the subsequent blending, the second silk sliver portion is added to perform the subsequent blending and the second self-regulating leveling. The first self-regulating leveling is located before combing, and the second self-regulating leveling is located after the rewash and subsequent blending and before the roving. Step E: The fiber sliver obtained from the second self-leveling process is stretched and twisted to form roving; Step F: Spin the obtained roving into single yarn with a draft ratio of 37 to 39 times and a Z-direction twist of 1680 T / m to 1720 T / m; Step G: Combine the two obtained single yarns and twist them twice to form a double-ply worsted yarn with a metric count of 190 Nm to 200 Nm.

2. The method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere according to claim 1, characterized in that, The average length of the cashmere sliver is 45 mm and the average fineness is 16.46 μm. Based on 100 parts by weight of total cashmere sliver weight, short fibers with a length of less than 20 mm account for 9.50 parts by weight. The average length of the silk sliver is 64.5 mm and the average fineness is 11.05 μm. Based on 100 parts by weight of total silk sliver weight, short fibers with a length of less than 20 mm account for 1.90 parts by weight.

3. The method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere according to claim 1, characterized in that, Follow up for 24 hours after the first application and 48 hours after the second application.

4. The method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere according to claim 1, characterized in that, The yarn has a draft ratio of 37.9, a twist of 1700 T / m, and a spindle speed of 6000 r / min.

5. A method for preparing ultra-high count worsted yarn of silk cashmere according to claim 4, characterized in that, The metric count of the obtained single yarn is 195–201 Nm.

6. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, The latter part of the mixed strip includes at least two mixed strips.

7. The method for preparing a high-count worsted yarn of silk cashmere according to claim 1, characterized in that, The first silk sliver portion participates in the initial mixing, the first self-regulating leveling, and the combing, while the second silk sliver portion only participates in the subsequent mixing and processing steps.

8. A high-count worsted yarn for silk cashmere, characterized in that, It is prepared by the method described in any one of claims 1 to 7.

9. A finely woven fabric, characterized in that, It is woven from the worsted yarn described in claim 8.

10. A knitted fabric, characterized in that, It is knitted using the worsted yarn described in claim 8.