Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high oil content

Abstract

This invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion characterized by a high fatty phase content and a low surfactant content, which can be used as a base composition for various skin care and / or cosmetic compositions.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water Apollonian emulsion and its preparation method.

[0002] More specifically, the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion characterized by a high fatty phase content and a low surfactant content, which can be used as a base composition for various skin care and / or cosmetic compositions. Background Technology

[0003] For various reasons particularly related to better user comfort (softness, moisturizing properties, etc.), current cosmetic compositions are typically in the form of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions consisting of an aqueous continuous phase and an oil-dispersed discontinuous phase, or in the form of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions consisting of an oil-dispersed continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.

[0004] Compositions with a continuous oil phase are generally desirable because they adhere well to the skin and do not dry it out. However, these compositions often have an oily feel, which may deter consumers with oily skin.

[0005] O / W emulsions are preferred in themselves because their external aqueous phase gives them a more refreshing, less oily, and lighter feel when applied to the skin compared to W / O emulsions. However, because these cosmetic compositions in O / W emulsion form typically have an oil phase content of less than 50% by weight, they cannot provide the comfort and hydration achieved with W / O emulsions. This is because a higher fat phase content necessitates the addition of a large amount of surfactant to stabilize the emulsion. The presence of high concentrations of emulsifiers can now lead to discomfort during application, such as a rough or sticky feeling, and also raises concerns about harmlessness to the skin, eyes, and scalp due to their high emulsifier content. Furthermore, a higher fat phase content results in a higher emulsion viscosity. Therefore, the sensory properties of emulsions containing a high-oil internal phase are not entirely satisfactory. In particular, these compositions have a texture that may be considered too thick and penetrate the skin too slowly.

[0006] Generally, in the cosmetics industry, consumers are constantly seeking breakthrough products with originality, innovation, and unexpected textures and properties. All kinds of cosmetic product presentations have been developed, ranging from solid formulations to highly fluid compositions (through gels), to provide users with different textures to suit their needs. For example, foam-form foundations and thixotropic nail polishes have been developed. For instance, highly fluid cosmetic serums with high concentrations of active ingredients are very popular with consumers. They are typically composed of an aqueous base to provide a refreshing effect during application; however, this does not allow for the incorporation of a sufficient oil phase. Therefore, serums are used as a base and must be supplemented with creams to provide the desired moisturizing and comfort.

[0007] Therefore, there is a desire to develop new cosmetic products with a light, fluid texture similar to cosmetic serums, which can provide the moisturizing properties of a much thicker cream rich in oily compounds.

[0008] This is thanks to the applicant’s demonstration that such products can be obtained by means of emulsions prepared according to specific methods, which allow for the incorporation of high contents of dispersed oil phase into O / W emulsions without increasing the viscosity of the composition or requiring the addition of large amounts of emulsifiers to ensure its stability. Summary of the Invention

[0009] This invention first relates to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising: - An emulsion system containing at least one surfactant; - Dispersed oil phase; - Continuous aqueous phase; in: - The oil phase content is at least 70%, especially at least 75%, and particularly at least 80%; and - The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system is greater than 45, especially greater than 70, especially greater than 100, even more particularly greater than 120, preferably greater than 140, more preferably greater than 150, and even more preferably greater than 160.

[0010] When formulated as a lip cosmetic composition, the composition according to the invention allows for the development of alternatives to compositions of the "tint" type. Lip tint products are popular among lip product consumers, especially in the Asian market where this type of formulation is well-established. These are water-based formulations into which dyes can be added. Dyes possess the specific characteristics and properties of "staining lips" (i.e., providing long-lasting color to the lips). Therefore, these products impart long-lasting colorfastness and excellent anti-transfer properties to cosmetics because the dye adheres to the skin and / or lips and does not transfer as is often the case with pigments. However, lip tint products are known to be very dry and not very comfortable because they are primarily composed of water and have very little moisturizing lipid phase. Therefore, the implementation of the invention in lip dye compositions, which is the subject of this patent application, allows for the development of lip tint-type textures with a rich and moisturizing cocoon-like texture, thus providing a novel dimension of care for typically dry lip cosmetic products.

[0011] Another advantage involves using very small amounts of surfactant, which improves the skin tolerance of the lotion, especially for lip products, as the lips are a delicate area.

[0012] But even more importantly, it's the oral cavity area where some of the deposited product is ingested. Therefore, it's crucial to strictly control the surfactant content in the formulation to limit intake.

[0013] When formulated as foundation products, the compositions according to the invention provide an interesting alternative to products currently on the market, which are primarily W / O or W / Si (water-in-silicone) emulsions.

[0014] Today, foundation products must meet the different requirements of both makeup effect and skincare benefits.

[0015] Therefore, today's foundations must be skin-friendly and soft, non-sticky, and without any clogging sensation. Furthermore, consumers increasingly demand high coverage and long-lasting wear. However, some high-coverage foundations are characterized by an overly strong presence and a slightly sticky feel, due to the high percentage of pigments introduced and the content and properties of the emulsifiers used, which often significantly increase viscosity.

[0016] The present invention, the subject of this patent application, advantageously allows for the maintenance of very good fluidity in foundation compositions while enabling the introduction of high pigment content. Furthermore, due to its high oil concentration, the compositions of the present invention allow for the introduction of a skincare dimension. In addition, they provide excellent "playtime" for the foundation during application, meaning the foundation can be processed sufficiently during application. Therefore, the present invention enables improved coverage performance of cosmetics while maintaining the sensory experience and comfort of the skin without stickiness or occlusive effects. It provides a more skin-friendly and environmentally friendly alternative compared to W / Si foundations.

[0017] The present invention enables the above-mentioned requirements to be met by providing compositions in the form of "Apollonius" type O / W emulsions (hereinafter referred to as "Apollonius emulsions").

[0018] Apollonios O / W emulsions are emulsions with a high internal phase ratio (HIPE), comprising a dispersed oil phase that is highly dominant relative to the continuous aqueous phase. Metastability of this type of emulsion is achieved through a coalescence-breakdown phenomenon, where the distribution of spherical droplets corresponds to the distribution of Apollonios aggregates. In other words, metastability induced by an interface unsaturated with surfactant may be sufficient to stabilize highly polydisperse emulsions, known as Apollonios emulsions. Therefore, these emulsions can be stable even at relatively low surfactant concentrations.

[0019] This specific Apollonius stacked “spherical” configuration advantageously endows the emulsion with very high fluidity (despite its high fat content) and particularly innovative rheology. The emulsion can be in the form of a fluid emulsion, which transforms into an oily appearance and texture when applied to the skin.

[0020] This distribution of spherical droplets of the dispersed phase in the emulsion corresponds to Apollonius stacking (which is the source of the fluidity of the Apollonius emulsion), distinguishing the Apollonius emulsion from HIPE emulsions known to those skilled in the art, which are recognized to have a very high dispersed phase content but a much thicker texture.

[0021] Apollonios O / W emulsions exhibit flow characteristics similar to those of Newtonian fluids, meaning that their texture, particularly their viscosity, does not change or changes very little when subjected to reasonable shear stress (before application to the keratin material, or demulsification within the keratin material). In particular, the Apollonios emulsions of this invention differ from prior art HIPE compositions in that they are fluid from the outset and not only during their application.

[0022] Furthermore, the preparation of these Apollonius O / W emulsions requires very little water, thus enabling the creation of “eco-designed” cosmetic compositions that conserve water resources.

[0023] Preferably, they are formulated without "ethoxylated" surfactants, which are criticized for their environmental impact.

[0024] Therefore, the Apollonius O / W emulsions developed by the inventors are particularly advantageous because they are fluid, stable, and rich in an oil phase. Due to their fluidity, they are therefore particularly easy to apply to the skin and provide a specific sensory experience previously unknown. Furthermore, the high concentration of the lipid phase allows for the application of small amounts of product to large areas of skin. Finally, the small amount of surfactant contained in the emulsion improves the product's tolerability.

[0025] Furthermore, these fluid emulsions are particularly advantageous when used in cosmetics, especially lipsticks or foundations, because they allow for the introduction of high pigment content into the oil phase while providing a skincare dimension.

[0026] When used in the formulation of aromatic products, the Apollonius O / W emulsion of the present invention allows for high fragrance persistence, particularly compared to fragrance compositions in other presentation forms (especially those with an alcohol matrix).

[0027] Therefore, according to one embodiment, the subject of the present invention is also a fluid fragrance in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising: - An emulsion system containing at least one surfactant; - Dispersed oil phase; - Continuous aqueous phase, in: - The oil phase content is at least 70%, especially at least 75%, and particularly at least 80%; and - The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system is greater than 45, especially greater than 70, especially greater than 100, and even more particularly greater than 120. The percentages defined above are weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The term "fragrance" refers to a product in liquid form designed to impart a pleasant aroma when sprayed or applied to the skin, hair, or clothing. This product is not rinsed off after application.

[0029] The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the method comprising the following steps: i) Prepare an aqueous phase containing an emulsion system; ii) The aqueous phase obtained by stirring, especially at a speed between 150 and 1000 rpm, particularly between 200 and 900 rpm, preferably between 150 and 600 rpm; iii) The oil phase is injected into the agitated aqueous phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate, so that the oil phase can be dispersed in the aqueous phase; The oil phase content is at least 70%, particularly at least 75%, and especially at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system is greater than 45, especially greater than 70, especially greater than 100, even more particularly greater than 120, preferably greater than 140, more preferably greater than 150, and even more preferably greater than 160. Attached Figure Description

[0030] [ Figure 1 According to particle size analysis of emulsions F088 and F098 prepared in Example 1, these emulsions have a droplet size distribution according to their volume. Detailed Implementation

[0031] The invention will now be described in more detail and in a non-limiting manner in the following description.

[0032] Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages relating to quantity are mass percentages.

[0033] Cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions Therefore, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising: - An emulsion system containing at least one surfactant; - Dispersed oil phase; - Continuous aqueous phase, in: The oil phase content is at least 70%, especially at least 75%, and particularly at least 80%; and - The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system can be greater than 45, especially greater than 70, particularly greater than 100, even more particularly greater than 120, preferably greater than 140, more preferably greater than 150, and even more preferably greater than 160. The percentages defined above are weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0034] For the purposes of this patent application, the term "fluid cosmetic composition" means a composition that flows at room temperature under its own weight.

[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the "fluid cosmetic composition" according to the invention flows in less than 10 seconds at room temperature under its own weight.

[0036] The "fluid cosmetic composition" according to the invention is different from any "solid" composition of the type such as "gel" or "cream", and in particular from creams that are conventionally obtained with conventional HIPE emulsions and turn into oil upon application.

[0037] Therefore, the compositions according to the invention are relatively fluid and, in particular, have relatively low viscosity.

[0038] The viscosity of the Apollonius O / W emulsion according to the present invention can be measured specifically according to the procedure described in the experimental section.

[0039] As indicated in this specification, the viscosity of the emulsion refers to the viscosity measured at 20°C using a LamyRheology RM 100 Touch CP 2000 viscometer (a rotational viscometer equipped with a cone plate), characterized by a cone diameter of 40 mm, an angle of 4°, and a plate diameter of 40 mm. Accuracy is ±1% of full scale, and repeatability is ±0.2%.

[0040] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a fluid texture and can be characterized by measuring their hardness using a texture analyzer.

[0041] Hardness can be measured using a two-step method with an SMS TA-TX Plus texture analyzer, following the procedure described in the experimental section.

[0042] Hardness can be measured in grams.

[0043] According to specific embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized by a hardness of less than 14 g, particularly between 1 g and 14 g, preferably between 2 g and 10 g, and even more preferably between 3 g and 6 g.

[0044] At a temperature of 20℃ and 100 s -1 The viscosity of the emulsion measured at the shear rate can be, in particular, less than 2.5 Pa·s, especially less than 2 Pa·s, and especially less than 1.5 Pa·s.

[0045] According to one embodiment, at a temperature of 20°C and 100 s -1 The viscosity of the emulsion measured at the shear rate was greater than 1.5 Pa·s and less than 2.5 Pa·s.

[0046] According to another embodiment, at a temperature of 20°C and 100 s -1The viscosity of the emulsion measured at the shear rate was greater than 2 Pa·s and less than 2.5 Pa·s.

[0047] Emulsification system The compositions according to the invention comprise an emulsion system, which may contain one or more surfactants or be composed of them.

[0048] According to some embodiments, the emulsion system is soluble in, and in particular in, a continuous aqueous phase.

[0049] The amount of emulsified system used in the emulsion is very low relative to the amount of dispersed oil phase.

[0050] Therefore, the weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system can be greater than 45, especially greater than 70, especially greater than 100, and even more particularly greater than 120.

[0051] According to one embodiment, the weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system is greater than 140, preferably greater than 150, and even more preferably greater than 160.

[0052] The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system is typically less than 400, especially less than 390 and particularly less than 350.

[0053] According to some embodiments, the content of the emulsion system is less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly less than 0.5% by weight.

[0054] According to some embodiments, the at least one surfactant is ionic or nonionic.

[0055] According to some embodiments, the at least one surfactant has an HLB content between 10 and 18, particularly between 12 and 16.

[0056] According to some embodiments, the surfactant does not contain an "ethoxylated" chain, and more specifically, is not a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether.

[0057] According to some embodiments, the surfactant is nonionic and is particularly selected from fatty acid esters of glycerol, alkyl glucosides, saponins, lipopeptides, or mixtures thereof.

[0058] The fatty acid esters of glycerol can be particularly selected from the group consisting of: polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol-10 stearate or distearate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is polyglycerol-10 laurate sold by Iwase Cosfa under the name S-Face 10 GL® or by Nikko Chemicals under the name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is polyglycerol-10 stearate sold by BASF under the name Emulgade Verde®. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is also a mixture of polyglycerol-10 stearate and polyglycerol-10 oleate sold by Iwase Cosfa under the name MizoanSolubil Org-1300.

[0059] Saponins can be particularly selected from those derived from tea seed extract, sold by Lessonia under the name Saponin+.

[0060] Lipopeptides composed of amino acids and fatty acids can be selected, especially from surfactants, and more particularly from sodium subtilis lipopeptide sold by Kaneka Corporation under the name Kaneka Surfactin CX.

[0061] According to some embodiments, the surfactant is ionic, especially anionic. It is particularly selected from gemini surfactants, such as sodium bis(lauramide-glutamine)lysine sold under the name Pellicer® L-30 or potassium cetyl phosphate sold under the name Amphisol K®.

[0062] In the context of this invention, the term "gemini surfactant" means a compound comprising two hydrophilic heads and two hydrophobic tails linked together by spacer groups. A particularly noteworthy example of a gemini surfactant is sodium bis(lauramide-glutamine)lysine, marketed by Presperse under the name Pellicer® L-30.

[0063] According to some embodiments, the emulsion system comprises fatty acid esters of glycerol, sodium di(lauramide-glutamine)lysine, and / or saponins.

[0064] Dispersed oil phase The O / W emulsion according to the invention is characterized by a high content of oil phase. This can be, in particular, not exceeding 87%, especially not exceeding 85%, and particularly not exceeding 80%.

[0065] According to some embodiments, the weight content of the oil phase may be between 70% and 87% relative to the total weight of the composition, and particularly between 75% and 85%.

[0066] The dispersed oil phase of the composition according to the invention may contain one or more miscible oils.

[0067] For the purposes of this invention, the term "oil" means a compound that is lipophilic in nature and, when added to water at a rate of at least 1% by weight at 20°C, is either completely insoluble in water or soluble to the extent that it is less than 10% by weight relative to the weight of the oil added to water. For the purposes of this specification, "oil" may be in liquid, paste, or solid form at 20°C. Preferably, it is an oil that is liquid at 20°C.

[0068] The definition of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space is described in the following article by CM Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters , J. PaintTechnol. [Paint Technology Journal], 39, 105 (1967).

[0069] According to the Hansen space: - δ D The London dispersion force characterizes the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions. - δ P It characterizes the Debye interaction between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - δ h It characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.).

[0070] These three parameters can be viewed as the coordinates of three-dimensional points in Hansen space. The closer the solvents are in this three-dimensional space, the more likely they are to dissolve in each other. This is based on the affinity between molecules: "like dissolves like".

[0071] Parameter δ D δ P δ h (MPa) 1 / 2 This means that it is equivalent to (J / cm) 3 ) 1 / 2 The unit.

[0072] Hansen's solubility parameters were calculated from the chemical structure using HSPiP V5.3.06 software; the method selected in the software was Y-MB or Yamamoto-Molecular Break.

[0073] The software can be downloaded from the official website of Hansen Parameters and HSPiP software, at www.hansen-solubility.com.

[0074] Log Kow or LogP is a measure of the difference in solubility of a molecule in water and octanol; P is the octanol / water partition coefficient.

[0075] LogP = Log(C octanol / C water).

[0076] This value allows for the assessment of a molecule's hydrophilic or lipophilic properties.

[0077] If LogP is positive and very high, the molecule under consideration is much more soluble in octanol than in water, reflecting its lipophilic nature. Conversely, if LogP is negative, it means the molecule under consideration is hydrophilic. Zero LogP means the molecule is soluble in both solvents.

[0078] Preferably, the oil used according to the present invention has a LogP greater than 0.

[0079] According to some embodiments, the oil phase comprises at least one polar oil, preferably a non-volatile polar oil.

[0080] Preferably, the total content of polar oil is at least 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly 45% to 87% by weight and especially 75% to 85% by weight.

[0081] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed by, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and contains at least one highly electronegative heteroatom (such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon, or phosphorus atom).

[0082] Preferably, the polar oil used according to the present invention has a polarity of 2 to 4 (J / cm). 3 ) 1 / 2 δ between P The preferred values ​​are 2.5 and 3.7 (J / cm). 3 ) 1 / 2 Between, or even better at, 3 and 3.5 (J / cm) 3 ) 1 / 2 δ between P .

[0083] Polar oil (H1) Preferably, the polar oil contains at least one polar oil H1 selected from the following: fatty alcohols, fatty acid triglycerides or dialkyl carbonates (the two alkyl chains may be the same or different), and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Fatty alcohols, especially those that are liquid at room temperature, have straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecaneol or isostearyl alcohol. Preferably, the fatty alcohol is octyldodecaneol, marketed by Inolex under the name Eutanol G®.

[0085] Fatty acid triglycerides consist of glycerol residues esterified with three fatty acid residues, the chain length of which can be particularly in the range of C4 to C24, and the chains can be straight or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. Fatty acid triglycerides can be particularly selected from decanoic acid and / or caprylic acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois under the name DUB MCT 5545; or triheptanoic acid triglycerides, which are sold by BASF under the name Sustoléo MCT®.

[0086] Preferably, the dialkyl carbonate (whose two alkyl chains may be the same or different) is dioctyl carbonate. It is especially marketed by Cognis under the name Cetiol CC®.

[0087] According to certain embodiments, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polar oil (H1) selected from the following: octyldodecanool, decanoic acid and / or octanoic acid triglyceride, triheptanoic acid triglyceride, dioctyl carbonate or mixtures thereof.

[0088] Preferably, the polar oil (H1) accounts for at least 20% by weight of the composition, especially 25% to 80% of the composition.

[0089] Other polar oils (H2) The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more other polar oils (additional polar oils or polar oil (H2)). These additional polar oils (H2) may account for 0% to 40% of the composition by weight, particularly 1% to 30% by weight.

[0090] According to some embodiments, the weight ratio of polar oil (H2) / (H1) is less than or equal to 1.

[0091] According to certain embodiments, such as when the cosmetic composition is a composition for non-therapeutic skin care, the weight ratio (H2) / (H1) may be particularly between 0.01 and 0.5, particularly between 0.05 and 0.1.

[0092] According to other embodiments, especially when the cosmetic composition is a fragrance or cosmetic product, the weight ratio (H2) / (H1) can be particularly between 0.1 and 1, and particularly between 0.3 and 0.9.

[0093] The additional polar oil (H2) that may be present in the compositions of the present invention is preferably non-volatile.

[0094] For the purposes of this invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Conversely, the term "volatile oil" means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than or equal to 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0095] Other oils (H2) may be selected, in particular, from hydrocarbon-based oils. They are selected from polar oils that are different from polar oils (H1).

[0096] As another hydrocarbon-based polar oil suitable for use in this invention, the following can be particularly mentioned: - Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin: - Such as phytosterol esters, such as phytosterol oleate, phytosterol isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytosterol glutamate (e.g., sold by Ajinomoto under the name Eldew PS203®). - Cranberry oil, chia seed oil, hibiscus oil, camellia oil, lemon oil, sunflower seed oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, flaxseed oil, and shea butter. - Synthetic esters, such as oils having the formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents, in particular, a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 10. Esters may be particularly selected from fatty acid esters of alcohols, such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters of C8-C18 and preferably C12-C16 fatty acids such as isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearate isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearate lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoate, and especially isostearate heptanoate, octanoate, decanoate, or ricinoleate of alcohols or polyols. Examples include propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethyl)hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoates such as isodecanyl neopentanoate, isotrecanyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isonononanoates such as isonononyl isononanoate, isotrecanyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, and hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate. - Hydrogenated esters of natural oils, such as jojoba oil esters and rapeseed oil esters. - Polyol polyesters other than fatty acid triglycerides, especially pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate or pentaerythritol adipate / decanoate / caprylate / heptanoate (such as Lexfeel 700 MB sold by Indis, with INCI name polyester-4). - Higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof. - Diesters of C2-C16, preferably C8-C12, dicarboxylic acids and C1-C4 monohydric alcohols, preferably branched C3-C4 monohydric alcohols; preferably, diesters of sebacic acid and isopropanol, such as diisopropyl sebacic acid sold by Dubsterlin under the name DUB DIS or by Lubrizol under the name Schercemol DIS Ester. - Butylene glycol diesters, such as butylene glycol dioctyl ester / didecanoate, marketed by Dr. Straetmanns under the name Dermofeel® BGC. - Sucrose esters, such as sucrose isobutyrate ester marketed by Eastman under the name Sustane SAIB. - Phytosterols marketed by Yokozeki Co., Ltd. under the name Technol SD. - Resins, such as those sold by Kahlwax under the name Kahlresin 6723, are called Sarosifolia (Solanum lyratum). Shorea robusta Resinous exudate, - Natural diglycerides and esters of medium-chain fatty acids, such as bis-diglyceride polyacryl adipate-2 sold by IOI Oleo under the name Softisan 649, and aromatic substances.

[0097] Polar oils (H2) can be selected from "aromatic" substances, that is, odorous substances that can emit a pleasant smell and can be used in fragrances.

[0098] Preferably, the aromatic substance is a natural or synthetic substance, more preferably a natural substance. More preferably, it is selected from essential oils, terpenes, and terpenoids.

[0099] The term "terpene" refers to a hydrocarbon whose basic element is isoprene, and whose empirical formula contains a number of carbon atoms that is a multiple of 5, especially terpenes used in the fragrance industry that contain 10 or 15 carbon atoms.

[0100] The term "terpenoids" refers to terpene derivatives, such as alcohols, phenols, ketones, aldehydes, esters, or ethers.

[0101] Terpenes and terpenoids are included in "essential oils," which refer to concentrated, aromatic, volatile liquids produced by plants.

[0102] Essential oils are most often extracted from plant organs through water distillation.

[0103] In particular, the following natural hydrophobic aromatic substances can be used: - Terpenes: pinene, camphene, limonene, juniperene, carene, caryophyllene, - Alcohols: Linalool, Geraniol, Menthol, Citronellol - Ketones: Menthone, carvone, β-ionone, thujone, camphor, cyclopentadecanone, - Aldehydes: citral, citronellal, cinnamaldehyde, lily aldehyde, - Esters: Linaloyl acetate, Menthyl acetate, Geraniyl acetate, Geraniyl succinate, - Phenols: thymol, carvacrol, eugenol, isoeugenol, - Ethers: anethole, eucalyptol, cineol, rose ether. - Alkenes: Limonene.

[0104] Essential oils can include ylang-ylang oil, bergamot oil, eucalyptus oil, lavender oil, bright lavender oil, lemongrass oil, patchouli oil, peppermint oil, pine oil, rose oil, coriander oil, linden oil, sage oil, geranium oil, palmarosa oil, litsea cubeba oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, neroli oil, grapefruit oil, lime oil, citrus oil, mandarin orange oil, orange oil, tea tree oil, camphor oil, rosemary oil, green fennel oil, star anise oil, fennel oil, basil oil, tarragon oil, clove oil, chili oil, thyme oil, safrole oil, wormwood oil, artemisia oil, cedarwood oil, hyssop oil, and marigold oil. Rue oil, elm oil, gampongolica oil, juniper oil, cappellai oil, guaiac oil, sandalwood oil, vetiver oil, ambrette oil, angelica oil, iris root oil, carrot oil, celery oil, cumin oil, round-leaf angelica oil, parsley oil, cinnamon oil, cardamom oil, ginger oil, nutmeg oil, pepper oil, frankincense oil, myrrh oil, Peruvian balsam oil, styrax oil, bukul oil, chamomile oil, or rockrose oil (Jean Garnero, "Essential Oils", Techniques de l'Ingénieur, Traité constantesphysico-chimiques, K-345).

[0105] - Its mixture.

[0106] Other non-polar oils (H3) The compositions according to the present invention may contain one or more other non-polar oils (H3) in addition to the polar oils described above.

[0107] For the purposes of this invention, the term "non-polar oil" means oil whose parameter δP is less than 2 (J / cm²) as defined above. 3 ) 1 / 2 Preferably δ P Oil with a concentration less than 1, and even better, less than 0.5.

[0108] Non-polar oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0109] Non-volatile non-polar oils Examples of non-volatile, non-polar oils that may be mentioned include hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: - Squalane, plant squalane, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] - Diol dimers with esters and polyesters of monocarboxylic acids or dicarboxylic acids, such as esters of dilinoleic acid and dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. under the names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. - Copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA sold by Kokaya Alcohol Co., Ltd. - Esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, wherein suitable esterification is performed on one or more free alcohol or acid functional groups with an acid or alcohol group, particularly dilinoleate diesters; such esters may be particularly selected from those having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenol / isostearyl / phytosterol dimer-linoleyl alcohol dimer-linoleyl ester (Plandool G), phytosterol / isostearyl / cetearyl alcohol / behenol dimer-linoleyl ester (Plandool H), sold by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. - Polybutene, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (molar mass 1340 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (molar mass 2160 g / mol) sold by Ineos.

[0111] Volatile nonpolar oils Volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as isododecane, isodecane, and isohexadecane; volatile straight-chain alkanes containing chains based on C9-C17 and C10-C14 hydrocarbons, such as mixtures of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® Ultimate; alkanes containing chains based on C15-C19 hydrocarbons, such as those marketed by SEPPIC under the name Emogreen L15; alkanes containing chains based on C12-14 hydrocarbons, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC; or alkanes containing chains based on C9-C12 hydrocarbons, such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen D10.

[0112] Preferably, the nonpolar oil (H3) is selected from volatile nonpolar oils, and more preferably, the nonpolar oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, particularly straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, especially alkanes with chains based on C9 to C19 hydrocarbons.

[0113] In a preferred embodiment, the nonpolar oil is squalane.

[0114] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the nonpolar oil (H3) is selected from esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers.

[0115] Preferably, the weight content of polar oils, especially oils (H1) and (H2), in the composition is dominant relative to the weight content of non-polar oil (H3).

[0116] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 40% by weight of non-polar oil (H3) relative to the weight of the composition, preferably less than 30% by weight, particularly less than 20% by weight, even more preferably less than 10% by weight of non-polar oil (H3) relative to the weight of the composition, or even the composition does not contain non-polar oil (H3).

[0117] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises another non-volatile or volatile polar oil (H2) or non-polar oil (H3) selected from: • Straight-chain or branched C8-C30 alkanes, especially squalane, isododecane, undecane, or tridecane. • Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, especially cranberry oil, camellia oil, sunflower seed oil, chia seed oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, and hibiscus oil; • Fatty acid esters and ethers; Camellia ester, butanediol dioctanoate / didecanoate (Dermofeel BGC), diisopropyl sebacate (Schercemol DIS Ester); • Polyol esters, and especially pentaerythritol esters, particularly Lexfeel 700 (pentaerythritol adipate / decanoate / octanoate / heptanoate).

[0118] Or a mixture thereof.

[0119] Preferred O / W emulsion According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises: - At least one polar oil selected from the following (H1): octyldodecanoate, decanoic acid and / or caprylic acid triglyceride, triheptanoic acid triglyceride, dioctyl carbonate, or mixtures thereof, and - At least one other polar oil (H2), particularly nonvolatile, selected from pentaerythritol adipate / decanoate / caprylate / heptanoate, diisopropyl sebacic acid, butylene glycol dicaprylate / didecanoate, camellia oil, sunflower seed oil, rapeseed oil, cranberry oil, and optionally... - Selected from the following nonpolar oils (H3): squalane, alkanes, isododecane, undecane and tridecane, bis-behenol / isostearyl / phytosterol dimeric dilinoleyl alcohol dimeric dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosterol / isostearyl / cetearyl alcohol / behenol dimeric dilinoleate (Plandool H) or fragrances.

[0120] According to some embodiments, the composition comprises 70% to 87% by weight, particularly 75% to 80% by weight, of polar oil (H1), preferably fatty acid triglycerides, particularly triheptanoic acid triglycerides, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] According to some embodiments, the composition comprises 0% to 10%, particularly 1% to 8% by weight of an additional polar oil (H2), preferably a polyol ester, particularly a pentaerythritol ester, especially a pentaerythritol adipate / decanoate / octanoate / heptanoate, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] According to certain embodiments, for example, when the composition is a non-therapeutic skin care composition, the composition according to the invention comprises: - At least one polar oil (H1), comprising 60% to 80% of the composition by weight; particularly 65% ​​to 75% of the composition by weight; - At least one additional polar oil (H2), comprising 0% to 20% by weight of the composition; particularly 1% to 10% of the composition, and optionally... - Non-polar oil (H3), comprising 0% to 10% of the composition by weight; particularly 1% to 5% of the composition. It should be understood that the sum of the weight percentages of oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and particularly between 70% and 87%.

[0123] According to other embodiments, such as when the composition is a fragrance composition, the composition according to the invention comprises: - At least one polar oil (H1), comprising 25% to 35% of the composition by weight; particularly 27% to 32% of the composition by weight; - At least one additional polar oil (H2), comprising 20% ​​to 40% by weight of the composition; particularly 25% to 35% of the composition, and optionally... - Non-polar oil (H3), comprising 10% to 30% by weight of the composition; particularly 15% to 25% of the composition. It should be understood that the sum of the weight percentages of oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and particularly between 70% and 87%.

[0124] According to other embodiments, such as when the composition is a cosmetic composition, the composition according to the invention comprises: - At least one polar oil (H1), comprising 20% ​​to 40% by weight of the composition; particularly 25% to 35% by weight of the composition; - At least one additional polar oil (H2), comprising 10% to 40% by weight of the composition; particularly 15% to 30% of the composition, and optionally... - Non-polar oil (H3), comprising 15% to 40% by weight of the composition; particularly 20% to 35% of the composition. It should be understood that the sum of the weight percentages of oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and particularly between 70% and 87%.

[0125] According to some embodiments, the oil phase of the composition comprises triheptanyl glycerol, caprylic / caprylic triglyceride, octyldodecanoate, dioctyl carbonate, or a mixture thereof, and the emulsion system comprises a fatty acid ester of glycerol or sodium di(lauramide-glutamine)lysine.

[0126] Continuous aqueous phase The composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase. The weight content of the aqueous phase is very small relative to the weight content of the oil phase.

[0127] The continuous aqueous phase preferably includes water, and more preferably demineralized water.

[0128] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase contains an emulsifying system.

[0129] The aqueous phase comprising the emulsion system accounts for no more than 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, particularly no more than 25% by weight and even more particularly no more than 20% by weight.

[0130] It constitutes, in particular, 13% to 30% by weight relative to the composition, and especially 15% to 25% by weight.

[0131] Other components of the composition The cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one ingredient selected from the following: cosmetic surfactants, fragrances, colorants, humectants, fillers, preservatives, chelating agents, UV shielding agents, film-forming agents or thickeners, or mixtures thereof.

[0132] Cosmetic surfactants Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention may contain one or more bioactive agents of natural, biotechnological, or synthetic origin that are effective on the skin via biological sites, such as vitamins, such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbic acid glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or niacinamide, panthenol, trace elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-5), plant extracts (licorice root extract... Glycyrrhiza glabra ) extract, Centella asiatica ( Centella asiatica Extracts include leaf extract, rye seed extract, yeast extract, α-hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid or lactic acid), tranexamic acid and its derivatives, such as hexadecyl tranexamic acid ester, etc.

[0133] The active agent may be present in the composition at an amount of about 0.1% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] spices Cosmetic compositions may contain fragrances. The fragrance may be selected from aromatic substances mentioned in polar oils (H2), as indicated above.

[0135] dye The composition may also contain at least one colorant selected from the group consisting of water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and particles that color and / or make the composition opaque, such as pigments, mother-of-pearl, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed onto an inert inorganic carrier), and mixtures thereof.

[0136] These dyes can be surface-treated with hydrophobic agents such as fatty acid soaps, lecithin, carnauba wax, chitosan, and optionally acyl amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate, and aluminum acyl glutamate.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the dye is a water-soluble dye. In this embodiment, the water-soluble dye is introduced into the continuous aqueous phase of the emulsion according to the invention.

[0138] The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 0.005% to 1%, preferably 0.05% to 0.5% of dye, the percentage being a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] Pigments can be inorganic or organic, and natural or synthetic.

[0140] Examples of inorganic pigments include, in particular, iron oxide, titanium oxide or zinc oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, manganese violet, chromium oxide, as well as composite pigments and angle-dependent, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and this list is not limited.

[0141] Among the organic pigments that can be used in this invention, references may be made to Red 7, Red 6, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Red 22, Red 28, Red 30, Red 33, Red 36, carbon black, lakes based on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) as described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0142] The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 0% to 30%, preferably 2% to 20%, of pigment, the percentage being a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Mother-of-pearl (or pearlescent agent) can be selected from those commonly found in cosmetic products, such as mica / titanium dioxide-based products. They can also be based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, synthetic fluorophlogopite / titanium dioxide (Sunshine® from Maprecos), sodium calcium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (Reflecks® from Engelhard), or calcium aluminum calcium borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (Ronastar® from Merck).

[0144] The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 0% to 20%, preferably 0% to 10%, of mother-of-pearl, the percentage being a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Like fillers, cosmetic materials are advantageously available in powder form.

[0146] wetting agent The term "wetting agent" refers to a compound that contains at least two hydrophilic groups (i.e., groups that form hydrogen bonds with water molecules, such as hydroxyl, amine and / or carboxyl groups).

[0147] The humectants suitable for the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are particularly selected from the group consisting of: polyols, sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, and monohydric alcohols such as ethanol. Among the polyols, glycerol (or glyceryl glycerol), diglycerol, ethylhexylglycerol, propylene glycol, propanediol, octyl ethylene glycol, pentyl glycol, hexanediol, propylene glycol, and methyl propylene glycol may be specifically mentioned.

[0148] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the wetting agent is a polyol, particularly glycerol.

[0149] The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 0% to 10% of a humectant, preferably 1% to 6% of a humectant, the percentage being a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] filler The term "filler" refers to any form of colorless or white, mineral or synthetic solid particles that are insoluble in and dispersed in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. Fillers can be mineral or organic and can be of any form, flake-like, spherical, or elliptical, regardless of crystalline form (e.g., layered, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Fillers can consist of several layers with different chemical properties and / or physical forms, and can be in the form of flakes coated with spherical fillers. They can be modified by means of various surface treatments.

[0151] The fillers that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine, sericite, cellulose beads, glass beads, starch, starch modified with octenyl succinic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 0% to 25%, preferably 2% to 10%, of filler, the percentage being a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] The filler is advantageously available in powder form.

[0154] preservative Cosmetic compositions may also contain preservatives, particularly those selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium dehydroacetate, chlorophenoxyethanol, parabens such as methylparaben or propylparaben, and mixtures thereof.

[0155] The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 0% to 2%, preferably 0.1% to 1%, of a preservative, the percentage being a weight percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] Chelating agents The compositions of the present invention may also contain chelating agents, such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts and their derivatives.

[0157] UV shielding agent The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a UV shielding agent selected from the group consisting of organic shielding agents, inorganic shielding agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] As organic masking agents, benzoylmethane derivatives (including butyl methoxybenzoylmethane), salicylates, p-aminobenzoic acid, β,β-diphenyl acrylate, benzophenone, benzyl camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole, triazine, phenylbenzotriazole, benzoxazole derivatives, amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives and / or anthranilic acid derivatives may be mentioned in particular.

[0159] More particularly preferred organic UV shielding agents are selected from the following compounds: - Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate (Hexyl benzoate) - Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, - Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, - Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, - Tris(biphenyltriazine), - Phenylidene bis(diphenyltriazine), - 2,4-Bis[5-(1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, - Ethylhexyltriazinone, - Diethylhexylbutamidotriazinone - Ethylhexyl salicylate, - Homosalate, - Octyl cyanobenzyl acrylate, - Phenylenoidimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0160] Mineral masking agents that may be mentioned in particular include those based on mineral oxides in the form of coated or uncoated pigments or nano-pigments, and especially those based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

[0161] Film-forming agent The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more film-forming agents.

[0162] They can be selected from: - Optionally modified polymers of natural origin, particularly selected from shellac resin, sand gum, elemigum, cellulose-based polymers, and extracts from *Ligustrum lucidum* (sold by Silab under the name Filmexel). Caesalpinia spinosa Fruits and / or extracts from *Algae chinensis* (*Kappa algae*) Kappaphycus alvarezii ) polymers and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The film-forming agent may be present in an amount of about 0% to 50%, preferably 0.5% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] gelling agent The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more gelling agents and / or thickeners for the aqueous phase, such as those selected from cellulose derivatives, plant-derived gums (guar gum, locust bean gum, alginate, carrageenan, pectin), microbial-derived gums (xanthan gum), clay (lithium saponite), acryloylmethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid, hydrophilic or amphiphilic crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers (such as ammonium AMP / VP copolymers, hydroxyethyl acrylate / AMPS copolymers, sodium acrylate / AMPS copolymers, acrylamide / AMPS copolymers, acrylate copolymers, acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, sodium polyacrylate).

[0165] The aqueous gelling agent and / or thickener shall be present in the composition at a content of about 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition.

[0166] The compositions of the present invention may contain one or more oil-phase gelling agents and / or thickeners, such as those selected from: ethyl cellulose; polyamides, bentonite, galactomannans such as guar gum, N-acylglutamic acid diamides such as dibutyllauroyl glutamine and dibutylethylhexanoyl glutamine, dextrin esters such as dextrin palmitate, castor oil-derived polymers sold under the names castor oil / IPDI copolymer or hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, and sucrose polyesters such as glyceryl behenate eicosate.

[0167] The oil phase gelling agent and / or thickener shall be present in the composition at a content of about 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition.

[0168] Examples of additives that can be added to the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are particularly described in the CTFA Dictionary (International Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients) and the manual published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002.

[0169] It goes without saying that those skilled in the art will carefully select such or such alternative conventional cosmetic ingredients and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the contemplated additives.

[0170] The composition of the present invention is in the form of a stable fluid oil-in-water emulsion with a uniform appearance.

[0171] The term "stable" refers to an emulsion that does not release water or oil and retains its initial form even after being exposed to an oven at temperatures between 5°C and 45°C for 3 months.

[0172] The term "uniform appearance" refers to an emulsion that appears smooth and uniform to the naked eye.

[0173] The compositions according to the invention can be advantageously used for cleansing, non-therapeutic care, and / or cosmetic purposes of the skin or lips.

[0174] The subject of this invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for applying makeup and / or care to the skin or lips, characterized in that it comprises applying the composition as defined above to the skin or lips.

[0175] Method for preparing the composition according to the invention According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition according to the invention, the method comprising the following steps: i) Prepare an aqueous phase containing an emulsion system; ii) The aqueous phase obtained by stirring, especially at a speed between 150 rpm and 1000 rpm, particularly between 150 rpm and 600 rpm; iii) The oil phase is injected into a stirred aqueous phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate, such that the oil phase can be dispersed in the aqueous phase and the viscosity increases to a maximum of less than 2 Pa·s, thereby producing a fluid composition, the viscosity of which is at a temperature of 20°C and 100 s⁻¹. -1 The measurements were taken at the shear rate.

[0176] In step i), the aqueous phase can be prepared by mixing the emulsion system with optional components present in the aqueous phase at a temperature preferably between 18°C ​​and 70°C.

[0177] In step ii), the aqueous phase is stirred and maintained at a temperature between 18°C ​​and 70°C. Stirring can be performed, in particular, using a double-acting three-bladed impeller.

[0178] The oil phase can be prepared by mixing one or more oils with optional components, particularly at temperatures between 18°C ​​and 75°C. The mixture can be stirred and maintained at a temperature between 20°C and 70°C. This method can be scaled up to an industrial scale using Trimix.

[0179] In step iii), depending on the amount of emulsion to be prepared, the oil phase can be injected into the aqueous phase by means of a syringe plunger or a peristaltic pump to obtain a regular and slow droplet-type discontinuous flow rate.

[0180] The applicant has observed that this discontinuous, regular, and slow dropwise addition is important for obtaining the Apollonios emulsion. Therefore, the method of the present invention differs from certain prior art methods known for the production of HIPE emulsions, where the addition of the dispersed phase is continuous and results in a much thicker texture than the Apollonios emulsion, the subject of this invention.

[0181] For example, to prepare 400 g of an Apollonius emulsion containing 83% by weight of a dispersed oil phase, the oil phase can be injected into the aqueous phase at a flow rate of 9 L / h using a 16 mm diameter tube by means of a peristaltic pump.

[0182] In the context of this invention, the dispersed oil phase is indeed added to the continuous aqueous phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate. This method also differs from prior art methods, in which O / W type HIPE emulsions are obtained by discontinuously adding an aqueous phase to an oil phase followed by a phase inversion under vigorous stirring, which also leads to an increase in composition hardness and fails to produce a fluid composition.

[0183] According to a preferred embodiment, the stable emulsion obtained at the end of step iii) does not undergo any stirring steps at a stirring speed greater than that used in steps ii) and / or iii).

[0184] In particular, the stable emulsion obtained at the end of step iii) does not undergo any stirring steps at a stirring speed greater than about 6,000 rpm, preferably greater than 8,000 rpm, and more preferably greater than 10,000 rpm.

[0185] Specifically, without being bound by any theory, the applicant has observed during its research that excessively high stirring speeds during the addition of the oil phase to the aqueous phase or after emulsion formation lead to thickening of the composition, thus preventing the attainment of the desired fluid emulsion.

[0186] Therefore, in order to obtain a fluid emulsion, it is important not to significantly increase the stirring speed of the emulsion produced by step iii), and more particularly not exceeding 6000 rpm, preferably 8000 rpm, and more preferably 10000 rpm.

[0187] Those skilled in the art can easily adjust the parameters of the method, such as stirring speed or oil phase injection rate, according to production volume and / or the equipment used.

[0188] On a macroscopic scale, the resulting Apollonius emulsion is an opaque, white (in the absence of dyes or pigments), smooth and glossy emulsion with a milky appearance that transforms into a transparent form upon application.

[0189] The formation of Apollonius emulsions can be determined or confirmed by examining the polydispersity of droplets in the dispersed oil phase under a microscope.

[0190] Apollonius emulsions are typically characterized by droplets with a spherical geometry and no obvious deformation.

[0191] The compositions according to the invention are generally polydisperse, meaning that the size of the emulsion droplets is highly variable.

[0192] The particle size analyzer provides various droplet diameter values, D10, D50, and D90. The term "droplet diameter D10" means that 90% of the total droplet population of the emulsion has a diameter greater than or equal to this value, and "D90" means that 10% of the total droplet population of the emulsion has a diameter greater than this value.

[0193] In other words, the particle size analyzer provides various droplet diameter values ​​D10, D50, and D90, where D10 represents the droplet diameter of 10% of the total droplet population of the emulsion that is less than or equal to that value, and D90 means that the droplet diameter of 90% of the total droplet population of the emulsion is less than that value.

[0194] The term "span" refers to a measure of the width of the droplet diameter distribution.

[0195] The span is defined according to the following equation: Span = (D90 - D10) / D50 If the span is close to 0, it means that the droplet size is uniform and the emulsion is monodisperse.

[0196] If the span is greater than 1, it means that the droplet size is not uniform and therefore the emulsion is polydisperse.

[0197] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention is characterized by a span > 1.

[0198] This particle size can be studied, in particular, using laser diffraction, for example, with a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 static light scattering machine.

[0199] According to certain embodiments, the volumetric particle size distribution of the compositions according to the invention includes droplet sizes ranging from the following: - 600 nm to 1000 µm, especially for care and fragrance compositions; - 300 nm to 1000 µm, especially for cosmetic compositions.

[0200] According to a preferred embodiment, the particle size distribution of the composition according to the invention can be measured by volume.

[0201] The volumetric particle size distribution allows for the evaluation of another feature of the composition according to the invention: the multi-peak nature of the droplet size distribution.

[0202] A multimodal distribution is a distribution that exhibits several peaks (that is, several local maxima of the distribution).

[0203] This multimodal distribution reflects that the population consists of several different subpopulations of droplets, which have different diameters.

[0204] According to certain embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are polydisperse (span > 1) and multimodal.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is polydisperse (span > 1) and bimodal or trimodal.

[0206] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is polydisperse (span > 1) and bimodal.

[0207] The following examples are given as a non-limiting illustration of the present invention.

[0208] Example Materials and methods Measurement of emulsion viscosity Viscosity was measured using an RM 100 Touch CP 2000 viscometer from Lemm Rheology (equipped with a cone-plate geometry rotational viscometer), characterized by a cone diameter of 40 mm, an angle of 4°, and a plate diameter of 40 mm. Accuracy was ±1% of full scale, with repeatability of ±0.2%. Measurements were taken at 100 s. -1 The process was carried out under the control standards of shear rate, temperature 20℃, and finished product.

[0209] Viscosity varies with temperature, and more specifically, viscosity increases as temperature decreases. Therefore, in order to make meaningful comparisons, it is important to measure the viscosity of the emulsion at a constant temperature of 20°C.

[0210] operate: Install the cone rotor onto the device.

[0211] On the plate, place the sample taken by the tip of a scraper at the center of the circle. Gently lower the measuring head to allow the cone to crush the product. There must always be a slight excess of product overflowing from the surface of the cone.

[0212] In the main menu, click "Measurement". There are two modes to choose from: "Manual" and "Automatic" - Manual: Enter the desired parameters (measurement system, speed, time) in the corresponding boxes and click - Automatic: Select a preset program from the drop-down list and start the measurement.

[0213] During the measurement, several parameters will be displayed in real time: viscosity (mPa.s), torque (mN.m), and rate gradient (s). -1 ), temperature (°C), measurement system and time (s).

[0214] Measurement of emulsion texture The texture of the emulsion was measured at 20°C using an SMS TA-TX Plus texture analyzer from MicroStable Systems, equipped with a finger-shaped hemispherical probe (P / 0.5HS). This allows for the characterization of the emulsion's hardness.

[0215] The measurement involves two steps: Step 1: Pour the emulsion into a 60 ml cylindrical container. The probe should be inserted at a depth of 1 mm / s. -1 The instrument contacts the product surface at a speed and penetrates to a depth of 10 mm. The instrument measures the response force applied to the product during the downward movement. The maximum value of this force defines the hardness.

[0216] Step 2: The probe rises (1 mm / s) -1 The instrument measures the response force applied to the product. The maximum value of this force (shown as a negative value on the measurement curve) defines the cohesive force.

[0217] The higher the value, the harder and thicker the emulsion.

[0218] Particle size (polydispersity) measurement Quantitative characterization of droplet size distribution was performed using a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 static light scattering system via static light scattering. This method allows particle size to be measured based on its size, refractive index, and the refractive index of the dispersant. The sample size distribution can be inferred from the spatial distribution of the intensity scattered by a set of particles.

[0219] To avoid multiple scattering, the formulation was first diluted in the external phase to achieve a volume fraction of internal phase on the order of 1 / 20. This diluted emulsion was then introduced into a 7 ml volumetric measuring vessel filled with water. A masking rate between 1% and 12% must be obtained to ensure the feasibility of the measurement. For good sample dispersion, the stirring in the vessel was set to 500 rpm.

[0220] Observation under a microscope Microscopic observations were performed using a Leica DMLB optical microscope, and photographs were taken with a Leica camera and captured via screenshots using the Leica LAS application.

[0221] Take a small amount of the product with a spatula and then carefully place and spread it on a glass slide. This observation is performed at a magnification of ×100 (×10 eyepiece and ×10 objective), first without a coverslip, and then repeating the process with a coverslip that is only lightly placed on the product (without applying pressure to avoid the risk of altering the spherical structure).

[0222] Observation must be rapid because the Apollonius emulsion quickly transforms into a thin layer in the air.

[0223] The white emulsion droplets placed on the glass slide will turn transparent; this phenomenon is induced by air, temperature and the carrier.

[0224] Emulsion stability The product shall be stored as follows: - In an 80 ml syrup flask at room temperature (RT).

[0225] - In 30 ml glass sample vials for laboratory testing: 3 months at 45°C, 5°C, and RT.

[0226] The container must be filled by pouring (not by syringe or pipette). The filling should be done between the lower and upper edges of the container shoulder.

[0227] Physical stability checks are performed at the following deadlines: for all temperatures, at D0, D3, 1 month, 2 months, and 3 months, and the appearance is observed. If the formulation has a uniform appearance, it is considered stable. If any changes in appearance are observed (such as separation), the formulation is considered unstable.

[0228] Example 1: Lip Makeup Products Prepare lip cosmetic ingredients according to the following method.

[0229] On the one hand, the aqueous phase and on the other hand, the fatty phase are prepared separately.

[0230] An aqueous phase was prepared by mixing water, preservative, and dye at speed "6" for 3 minutes using an Ultra Turrax mixer to ensure good dye dispersion. Premixed glycerol and emulsifier were then added to this first mixture. The resulting mixture was then stirred at medium speed using a three-bladed impeller and heated to 70°C.

[0231] A fatty phase was prepared by mixing various components and melting the mixture in a 90°C water bath with moderate stirring using an anti-flocculator. The fatty phase was then cooled to 70°C, making it fluid and pumpable by a peristaltic pump.

[0232] The fatty phase is then added in batches to the aqueous phase using a peristaltic pump under continuous stirring. The aqueous phase is stirred with a three-bladed impeller at very moderate stirring (200-300 rpm) to prevent foaming. Stirring during emulsification (introducing the fatty phase into the aqueous phase) is 800-900 rpm with a double-sided three-bladed impeller.

[0233] The rate at which the fat phase is introduced using a peristaltic pump is 3600 ml / h (lower than that of care products, because the products are more viscous and need to be incorporated into the aqueous phase more slowly during emulsification).

[0234] Adjust the volume of the peristaltic pump to the amount of fatty phase to be introduced, so that all fatty phase is pumped properly at once.

[0235] Cool the emulsion to room temperature and then place it in a cold water bath and stir until it reaches a temperature of 35°C.

[0236] Table 1 Particle size analysis of the obtained emulsion in [ Figure 1 As shown in the image.

[0237] Polydisperse distributions of droplets with sizes ranging from 300 nm to 1000 µm were observed. Figure 1 Four peaks were observed, indicating a four-peak distribution comprising four droplet groups: the first group with droplet sizes between 300 nm and 1 µm, the second group with droplet sizes between 1 and 7 µm, the third group with droplet sizes between 7 and 40 µm, and the fourth group with droplet sizes between 200 and 1000 µm. The range is greater than 1, therefore the emulsion is polydisperse and four-peaked.

[0238] Emulsions are fluids, as evidenced by their viscosity of 1745 and 1854 mPa·s and their relatively low hardness and consistency factors.

Claims

1. A fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising: - An emulsion system containing at least one surfactant; - Dispersed oil phase; - Continuous aqueous phase, in: - The content of the oil phase is at least 70%, especially at least 75%, and particularly at least 80%; and - The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system is greater than 45, especially greater than 70, especially greater than 100, and even more particularly greater than 120. The percentages defined above are weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein, At a temperature of 20℃ and 100 s -1 The viscosity of the emulsion, measured at a shear rate of less than 2.5 Pa·s, particularly less than 2 Pa·s, and especially less than 1.5 Pa·s.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein, At a temperature of 20℃ and 100 s -1 The viscosity of the emulsion, measured at a shear rate, is greater than 1.5 Pa·s and less than 2.5 Pa·s.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein, At a temperature of 20℃ and 100 s -1 The viscosity of the emulsion, measured at a shear rate, is greater than 2 Pa·s and less than 2.5 Pa·s.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system is greater than 140, preferably greater than 150, and even more preferably greater than 160.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The content of the emulsion system is less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular less than 0.5% by weight.

7. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein, The surfactant is either ionic or nonionic.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The surfactant has an HLB content between 10 and 18.

9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The surfactant is selected from fatty acid esters of glycerol, alkyl glucosides, saponins, lipopeptides, gemini surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

10. The composition of claim 9, wherein, The fatty acid ester of the glycerol is selected from the group consisting of: polyglycerol-10 lauryl ester, polyglycerol-10 myristate ester, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 distearate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein, The oil phase contains at least one polar oil.

12. The composition of claim 11, wherein, The oil phase further comprises non-polar oil, wherein the weight content of polar oil in the oil phase is dominant relative to the weight content of non-polar oil.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 11 and 12, wherein, The polar oil accounts for at least 45% by weight of the composition, and preferably from 45% to 87%.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, wherein, The at least one polar oil is selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acid triglycerides, or dialkyl carbonates.

15. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The oil phase comprises octyldodecanoate, decanoic acid and / or octanoic acid triglyceride, triheptanoic acid triglyceride, dioctyl carbonate or a mixture thereof, and the emulsion system comprises a fatty acid ester of glycerol or sodium di(lauramide-glutamine)lysine.

16. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The emulsion is polydisperse, preferably polydisperse and multi-peaked, more preferably polydisperse and bimodal, trimodal or tetramodal.

17. The composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims, wherein, The emulsion also contains one or more ingredients selected from the following: cosmetic surfactants, fragrances, humectants, fillers, colorants, preservatives, chelating agents, UV shielding agents, film-forming agents, and / or gelling agents.

18. The composition of claim 17, wherein, The dyeing agent is a water-soluble dye, and the water-soluble dye is introduced into the continuous aqueous phase of the emulsion.

19. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The composition is a cleansing composition, a non-therapeutic care composition for the skin or lips, a fragrance, or a cosmetic composition.

20. A method for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition as described in any one of claims 1 to 19, the method comprising the following steps: i) Prepare an aqueous phase containing an emulsion system; ii) Stirring the aqueous phase obtained, especially at a speed between 150 and 1000 rpm, particularly between 200 and 900 rpm, preferably between 150 and 600 rpm; iii) The oil phase is injected into the agitated aqueous phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate, so that the oil phase can be dispersed in the aqueous phase; The oil phase content is at least 70%, especially at least 75%, and particularly at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and The weight ratio of the oil phase to the emulsion system is greater than 45, especially greater than 70, especially greater than 100, even more particularly greater than 120, preferably greater than 140, more preferably greater than 150, and even more preferably greater than 160.

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