New nail varnishes comprising a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte halocnemum strobilaceum, use of said extract in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals

Abstract

A composition in the form of nail polish, comprising: A) a nail polish base, and B) a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel, in a mass ratio of 0.1% to 2% by mass of the nail polish base, wherein the constituent solvent of the lipid extract is a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms; its use in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The subject of this invention is a novel nail polish and its use in protecting nails from damage caused by exposure.

[0002] Biological and environmental background

[0003] Fingernails are basically composed of a hard, flat, rectangular plate that is tightly connected to the nail bed. During the formation of the nail plate, due to the disintegration of the cell nucleus and the coagulation of its cytoplasm, the keratinocytes of the germinal matrix flatten, forming a flat plane of keratinized cells, whose cell boundaries are defined (unlike hair).

[0004] Nail health is attributed not only to internal factors that affect the characteristics of nails as they grow from the germinal matrix, such as age, genetics, or nutrition, but also to external factors that affect the structure and appearance of nails, such as environmental stress.

[0005] At the molecular level, the differentiation of keratinocytes into keratinocytes aggregates keratin intermediate filaments, forming a complex scaffold. This scaffold accumulates in the cytoplasm of terminally differentiated keratinocytes and fills the entire interior of the cell, primarily providing the mechanical strength of the nail. The aggregated keratin is structurally organized into stacked layers through a cross-linking process, providing high cohesion for the overall structure of the nail plate. The cross-linking of keratin filaments affects characteristic properties of the nail plate, such as stability and strength.

[0006] Previous proteomic analyses of nails and hair have described a group of proteins, some of which are found only in the nail plate (keratin K5, K6A, K14, K17 and connexins DSG1, EP-PC1). Keratin is a fundamental component of the nail and is capable of self-assembling into filaments.

[0007] External factors that damage nails are associated with unsightly changes in nail appearance caused by alterations in physical and chemical structure, leading to weakening, brittleness, discoloration, and striping.

[0008] Approximately 20% of the French population suffers from brittle nails. This brittleness is characterized by cracking and various forms of peeling. The nails soften and lose their elasticity.

[0009] Nail keratin is identified as a target for harmful modifications (such as carbonylation) due to its high exposure to the environment (ultraviolet radiation, pollution, chemical reagents), which may partially explain the molecular basis of physicochemical modifications that lead to brittle and therefore fragile nails.

[0010] Therefore, OxiProteomics developed an ex vivo model of nails to analyze these modifications. A decrease in nail mechanical strength was indeed observed after the stress induced by the exposure group. Carbonylation of keratin could be identified and measured using proteomics methods combined with image analysis. For example, chemical and physical stress induce oxidative damage to structural proteins of keratinocytes.

[0011] A significant increase in protein oxidation (carbonylation) was observed in nail keratin primarily following exposure to UVA and chemical reagents. Since nails cannot repair themselves when damaged, protecting the major nail proteins from carbonylation may be an effective way to protect nails from exposure-induced oxidative stress. The concept of the exposure group refers to the cumulative effects of exposure to environmental factors, particularly those experienced by the nails, and is complementary to the effects on the genome.

[0012] Existing technology

[0013] Many published documents disclose methods for strengthening or hardening brittle nails.

[0014] UK Patent Application Publication No. GB ​​2 196 978 A discloses nail polish containing glyoxal.

[0015] European patent application publication number EP 1 408 917 A1 discloses a nail polish containing citral, which is described as a nail hardener.

[0016] International Patent Application Publication No. WO 2021 / 234270 A1 discloses a cosmetic composition for nail care, comprising an aqueous extract of chestnut as a cosmetic active ingredient. This composition is described as improving the surface smoothness of nails.

[0017] Technical issues

[0018] As part of their research on reducing nail damage caused by exposure, the inventors have developed a novel composition in the form of nail polish. Summary of the Invention

[0019] According to a first aspect, one subject of the present invention is a composition comprising the following components: A) Nail polish base, and B) A lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel (Crithmum maritimum), in a mass ratio of 0.1% to 2% of the nail polish base, wherein the solvent of the lipid extract is a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0020] According to a particular aspect of the invention, a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel is present in the composition as defined above at a mass ratio of 0.5% to 1% of the nail polish matrix.

[0021] According to another specific aspect of the invention, the compositional solvent of the lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel, which is present in the composition as defined above, is a mixture of triglyceride tridecanoate and triglyceride tricaprylate.

[0022] According to another specific aspect of the invention, in the composition as defined above, the nail polish base comprises, relative to 100% of its mass: A1) 10% to 35% by mass of film-forming agent or mixture of film-forming agents. A2) 5% to 15% by mass of plasticizer or plasticizer mixture, and A3) 50% to 80% by mass of organic solvents or mixtures of organic solvents.

[0023] More specifically, the nail polish base further comprises, relative to 100% of its mass: A1) 0.1% to 2% by mass of an auxiliary agent or mixture of auxiliary agents selected from colorants and ultraviolet absorbing compounds.

[0024] In this invention, the components present in the nail polish matrix of the composition as defined above are suitable for topical application to the nails.

[0025] According to a particular aspect of the invention, A1) The film-forming agent present in the nail polish base is selected from polyurethane, acrylic polymers, vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl butyral, (adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimethicone) copolymers, and cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxycellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose acetate butyrate, or cellulose acetate propionate. A2) The plasticizers present in the nail polish base are selected from glyceryl carbonate, dilaurate carbonate, diammonium carbonate, dibutyl phthalate, tributyl acetyl citrate, camphor, trimethylpentanediol dibenzoate, glyceryl benzoate and diol esters such as neopentanediol or propylene glycol; A3) The organic solvents present in the nail polish base are selected from ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone, or acetone; alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, such as ethanol, isopropanol, or cyclohexanol; diols that are liquid at room temperature, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or pentanediol; glycerol; and carboxylic acid esters, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, butyl acetate, or isoamyl acetate.

[0026] According to a particular aspect of the invention, a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte *Haloxylon ammodendron* present in the composition as defined above is obtained directly by a method comprising the following steps performed sequentially: a) Step a): The aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel, which are pre-dried and ground, are impregnated in a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides, the acyl chains of which contain 8 to 10 carbon atoms, to obtain a lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel. b) Step b): Decant the lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel obtained at the end of step a) to remove insoluble residual biomass therefrom; c) Step c): The lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel obtained at the end of step b) is subjected to a first lenticular filtration through a sieve with an average diameter of 3 micrometers to remove residual biomass particles with an average diameter greater than 3 micrometers and to obtain a first lipid filtrate. d) Step d): The first filtrate obtained at the end of step c) is subjected to a second lens filtration through a sieve with an average diameter of 200 nanometers to remove residual biomass particles with an average diameter greater than 200 nanometers and to obtain a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel.

[0027] According to another specific aspect of the composition as defined above, the mass ratio of the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms used in step a) to the mass of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel is greater than or equal to 90 / 10 and less than or equal to 98 / 2, and preferably about 95 / 5.

[0028] According to another specific aspect of the invention, the impregnation step a) is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 15°C and less than or equal to 25°C for a duration of greater than or equal to 12 hours and less than or equal to 24 hours.

[0029] According to a more specific aspect of the invention, the nail polish base of the composition as defined above comprises 10% to 35% by weight of a film-forming agent mixture relative to 100% of its mass, said film-forming agent mixture comprising, relative to 100% of its mass: - 65% to 75% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0). - 25% to 35% by mass of a copolymer of (adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / benzoic anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), and - Optionally up to 0.35% by weight of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2).

[0030] According to another more specific aspect of the invention, the nail polish base of the composition as defined above comprises 5% to 10% by mass of tributyl acetyl citrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7) or 5% to 10% by mass of a plasticizer mixture relative to 100% of its mass, said plasticizer mixture comprising, relative to 100% of its mass: - 98% to 99.9% by mass of acetylated tributyl citrate, and - 0.1% by mass to 2% by mass of trimethylpentanediol dibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3).

[0031] According to another more specific aspect of the invention, the nail polish base of the composition as defined above comprises, relative to 100% of its mass: 60% to 80% by mass of a solvent mixture, said solvent mixture comprising, relative to 100% of its mass: - 5% to 15% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0). - 10% to 75% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), and - 10% by mass to 75% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6).

[0032] According to a very specific aspect of the invention, the nail polish base, as defined above, comprises, relative to 100% of its mass: - 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6). - 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4). - 5% to 10% by mass of (adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimethicone) copolymer (CAS No. = 28407-73-0). - 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0). - 5% to 10% by mass of acetylated tributyl citrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7). - 5% to 10% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0). - 0.1% to 1% by mass of etotriene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5). - Optionally up to 0.1% by weight of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2).

[0033] One subject of this invention is the use of a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel for the purpose of reducing the unsightly effects induced in human nails by exposure groups, by topical application.

[0034] In the context of this invention, the term "exposure group" refers to all environmental stresses that can induce the oxidation of nail keratin.

[0035] Examples of environmental stress include ultraviolet radiation (UVA and / or UVB), pollution from fine particles, pollution from ozone, pollution from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, pollution from chemical reagents, or pollution from cigarette smoke.

[0036] According to a particular aspect of the invention, one subject of the invention is the use as defined above for reducing the unsightly effects induced on human nails by solar radiation, more particularly by ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation.

[0037] In the context of this invention, the unsightly effects induced in human nails by the exposure group are selected from yellowing, roughness, brittleness, and fragility.

[0038] Another subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced on human nails by exposure groups, comprising the step of applying a composition as defined above to said nails, and more particularly a non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced on human nails by solar radiation, and more particularly by ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation.

[0039] Finally, one subject of the present invention is a composition as defined above for reducing damage to the keratin structure of human nails caused by solar radiation, and more particularly by ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation.

[0040] According to a particular aspect of the invention, damage to the keratin structure of human nails caused by solar radiation may be selected from nail proteins, particularly the oxidation of nail keratin, and more particularly the carbonylation of nail proteins, especially the carbonylation of nail keratin.

[0041] Exemplary embodiments of the present invention

[0042] The effect of sea fennel extract incorporated into nail polish base on UVA-induced keratin oxidation (carbonylation)

[0043] halophytes sea ​​fennelA lipid extract of the aerial parts of the plant ( wherein the solvent of the lipid extract is an equal mass mixture of tricaprylic acid ester and tricaprylic acid ester) is mixed with a nail polish base consisting of the following components: - 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6). - 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4). - 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0). - 5% to 10% by mass of acetylated tributyl citrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7). - 5% to 10% by mass of (adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimethicone) copolymer (CAS No. = 28407-73-0). - 5% to 10% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0). - 0.1% to 1% by mass of etotriene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5). - Up to 0.1% by weight of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2). - Up to 0.1% by weight of trimethylpentanediol dibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3), and - Purple coloring agent (CI 60725) (CAS No. = 81-48-1).

[0044] Two types of nail polish were thus prepared: - Product A, which contains halophytes in a mass ratio equal to 0.5% of the nail polish base. ocean fennel Lipid extracts from the aerial parts; - Product B, which contains halophyte in a mass ratio equal to 1.0% of the nail polish base. ocean fennel Lipid extracts from the aerial parts of the plant.

[0045] Principles of evaluation : Evaluate the effects of UVA exposure on clipped nails

[0046] planOn day 0, the product was applied to clipped nails and left in contact until dry. A second application of the product was then made, leaving the product in contact with the nails for 5 days. On day 5, the product was removed from the nails using a mild nail polish remover (commercial product), and the clipped nails were then transferred to Petri dishes to dry. Finally, they were exposed (or left unexposed) to UV-A radiation (6.8 J / cm², 2.365 nm, LED source) in an OxiProteomics™ chamber. The “untreated control” and “stressed control” groups also used a mild nail polish remover solution. After treatment, the nails were prepared, sampled, and stored at -80°C until OxiProteome Score™ analysis.

[0047] OxiProteome Score™ Analysis Proteins were extracted from clipped nails in an aqueous buffer using the proprietary OxiProteomics™ method optimized for nail proteins. Total protein quantification was performed using the Bradford method. For each sample, the extracted proteins were partitioned in equal amounts for the following analyses. Oxidized (carbonylated) proteins were labeled with specific fluorescent probes and then separated by high-resolution electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE - 4%–20%). After migration, total protein was stained onto the gel with SyproRuby™ fluorescent reagent (Life Technologies, USA). Digital images of carbonylated proteins and total protein were acquired using the iBright system (Thermofisher). Image processing and density analysis were performed using ImageJ software. Values ​​of carbonylated proteins (carbonyl score) were obtained by normalizing the specific fluorescence signal to the total protein content.

[0048] The carbonyl score of sample X is equal to the ratio of the fluorescence value of the oxidized protein in that sample to the fluorescence value of the total protein in the same sample.

[0049] The significance of the obtained results was determined by comparing the carbonyl scores and performing statistical analysis according to Student's t-test (with p<0.05 as the significance threshold).

[0050] Results obtained The results are recorded in Table 1 below.

[0051] [Table 1]

[0052] These results indicate that: - Compared with untreated nail samples, UVA irradiation of untreated nail samples increased the carbonyl score by 61.8%; therefore, UVA irradiation has a harmful oxidative effect on nail keratin. - Treating nails with a separate nail polish base reduced the effects of UVA irradiation, but did not prevent keratin oxidation, and the carbonyl score was still much higher than the untreated control (+37.0%). - Treating nails with either product A or B reduced the carbonyl score (-44%, -43.5%), completely suppressing the effects of irradiation.

[0053] Therefore, the presence of lipid extracts from the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel in nail polish at the claimed protected proportions brings technical advantages that cannot be clearly derived from the prior art.

Claims

1. A composition comprising the following components: A) Nail polish base, and B) A lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel, wherein the lipid extract comprises 0.1% to 2% by mass of the nail polish base, and wherein the solvent of the lipid extract is a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel is present therein at a mass ratio of 0.5% to 1% of the nail polish base.

3. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the solvent for the lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel is a mixture of triglyceride and tricaprylate.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the nail polish base comprises, relative to 100% by weight: A1) 10% to 35% by mass of film-forming agent or mixture of film-forming agents. A2) 5% to 15% by mass of plasticizer or plasticizer mixture, and A3) 50% to 80% by mass of organic solvents or mixtures of organic solvents.

5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the nail polish base further comprises, relative to 100% by weight: A4) 0.1% to 2% by mass of an auxiliary agent or mixture of auxiliary agents selected from colorants and ultraviolet absorbing compounds.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel is obtained directly by a method comprising the following steps performed sequentially: - Step a): The aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel, which are pre-dried and ground, are impregnated in a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides, the acyl chains of which contain 8 to 10 carbon atoms, to obtain a lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel. - Step b): Decant the lipid suspension of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel obtained at the end of step a) to remove insoluble residual biomass therefrom; - Step c): The lipid suspension of the aerial part of the halophyte sea fennel obtained at the end of step b) is subjected to a first lens filtration through a sieve with an average diameter of 3 micrometers to remove residual biomass particles with an average diameter greater than 3 micrometers and to obtain a first lipid filtrate. - Step d): The first filtrate obtained at the end of step c) is subjected to a second lens filtration through a sieve with an average diameter of 200 nanometers to remove residual biomass particles with an average diameter greater than 200 nanometers and to obtain a lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel.

7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the mass ratio of the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms used in step a) to the mass of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel is greater than or equal to 90 / 10 and less than or equal to 98 / 2, and preferably about 95 / 5.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the nail polish base comprises 10% to 35% by weight of a film-forming agent mixture relative to 100% of its mass, the film-forming agent mixture comprising, relative to 100% of its mass: - 65% to 75% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0). - 25% to 35% by mass of a copolymer of adipic acid, neopentyl glycol, and benzoic anhydride (CAS No. = 28407-73-0), and - Optionally up to 0.35% by weight of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2).

9. The composition according to any one of claims 4 to 8, wherein the nail polish base comprises 5% to 10% by weight of tributyl acetylacetonate (CAS No. = 77-90-7) or 5% to 10% by weight of a plasticizer mixture relative to 100% by weight, said plasticizer mixture comprising, relative to 100% by weight: - 98% to 99.9% by mass of acetylated tributyl citrate, and - 0.1% by mass to 2% by mass of trimethylpentanediol dibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3).

10. The composition according to any one of claims 4 to 9, wherein the nail polish base comprises a solvent mixture of 60% to 80% by weight relative to 100% of its mass, said solvent mixture comprising, relative to 100% of its mass: - 5% to 15% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0). - 10% to 75% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4), and - 10% by mass to 75% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6).

11. The composition according to any one of claims 4 to 10, wherein the nail polish base comprises, relative to 100% by weight: - 25% to 45% by mass of ethyl acetate (CAS No. = 141-78-6). - 15% to 25% by mass of butyl acetate (CAS No. = 123-86-4). - 10% to 20% by mass of nitrocellulose (CAS No. = 9004-70-0). - 5% to 10% by mass of acetylated tributyl citrate (CAS No. = 77-90-7). - 5% to 10% by mass of a copolymer of (adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimeric anhydride) (CAS No. = 28407-73-7). - 5% to 10% by mass of isopropanol (CAS No. = 67-63-0). - 0.1% to 1% by mass of etotriene (CAS No. = 5232-99-5). - Optionally up to 0.1% by weight of polyvinyl butyral (CAS No. = 63148-65-2). - Optionally up to 0.1% by weight of trimethylpentanediol dibenzoate (CAS No. = 68052-23-3), and - Optional colorant.

12. A lipid extract of the aerial parts of the halophyte sea fennel is used topically for non-therapeutic purposes to reduce the unsightly effects induced in human nails by exposure groups.

13. The use according to claim 12, for reducing the unsightly effects on human nails induced by solar radiation, more particularly by ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation.

14. A non-therapeutic method for reducing the unsightly effects induced by exposure to human nails, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 to said nails.

15. The non-therapeutic method according to claim 14, used to reduce the unsightly effects induced on human nails by solar radiation, more particularly by ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, for reducing damage to the keratin structure of human nails caused by solar radiation, more particularly by ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation.

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